USA > California > Los Angeles County > Ingersoll's century history, Santa Monica Bay cities prefaced with a brief history of the state of California, a condensed history of Los Angeles County, 1542-1908 > Part 35
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On June 30th, the water was turned into the canals and as the waterways and lagoon were filled, for the first time, the magnificence of the design dawned upon the onlookers. On the evening of July 2nd the electric lights for illumina- tion were turned on, 17,000 lamps being used. The effect was magical. During the day the great pipe organ in the Auditorium was dedicated by Clarence Eddy. On July 3rd, the day was given over to the workmen who had aided in creating Venice and July Fourth witnessed the greatest celebration of the day ever known in this part of the state. It was estimated that 40,000 people visited Venice during the day. There was music and speeches in the Assembly hall; music, swimming contests and fire works on the lagoon.
The Venice Assembly under the direction of B. Fay Mills, held regular sessions during July and August. It was attended by large numbers of people and furnished a fine program of speakers, such as Joaquin Miller, Dr. Josiah Strong, N. O. Nelson and many others, beside furnishing instruction in many branches. To accommodate the people who attended it, the tent city was built along the canals and proved one of the most popular features of Venice life. It was Mr. Kinney's hope to make this a center of education and culture and in pursuance of that purpose, for the winter season of 1905-6 Ellery's Band was engaged to furnish daily music: a large part of the foreign exhibits at the Portland fair were brought to Venice, and every effort was made to furnish high class entertainments. Sports of every kind were also provided for yacht races, tennis tournaments, swimming : bath horses and boat houses were built. To further attract the public arrangements were made to open the
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Midway Plaisance and in November the contract was let for eleven buildings to accommodate this feature. It was opened to the public in January, 1906 and attracted a good deal of attention ; but was not a finanical success. In May, 1906 Sarah Bernhardt, who would not submit to the demands of the American Theater Trust, played for three days in the Venice Auditorium and declared herself de- lighted, with all the fervor of her ardent nature, with this playhouse over the waves.
Venice was provided with the best of fire protection, a system of salt water under high pressure which is always on. It is only necessary to open the fire- hydrants in order to obtain an unlimited amount of water which can be put any-
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LAKE OF VENICE.
where desired. The town is also well supplied with fresh water for domestic use. During 1906 the bath house on the lagoon and the dance Pavilion on the pier were built; both of them beautiful buildings, complete in every detail. Twelve concrete bridges were built across the canals and lagoons and many street improvements were made. The streets and alley ways of Venice were dedicated to the city by its owner ; but this city within a city has its own fire protection and water system, its own sewer system and-to a large extent-its own police protection and street cleaning service. Much thought has been given to the beautifying of the streets and gardens of Venice. Suitable trees and plants have been placed along the borders of the canals and ornamental parks are a part of the scheme in its full treatment. A harbor for commerce and for a military base is also a part of the plan.
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A special feature of Venice attractions is the social life of the community. The Country Club has always been a favorite resort for those who cared for sports. The tennis courts have been the scene of some brilliant social affairs. The afternoon teas of the ladies of the club are pleasant affairs.
The Five Hundred Club is an organization of ladies which meets Monday afternoons at the Cabrillo for a social card game. The Sunshine Club, of which Mrs. J. M. White is president, meets once in two weeks to work for charitable purposes. The members of this unique little club are doing a good work and hold most enjoyable meetings.
The society dances on Tuesday evenings at the pavilion have become a popular feature of Venice society and are attended by many outsiders. The children's dances, the swimming parties at the bath houses, the boating, are all features that add to the enjoyment of life.
In January, 1907 the Venice Chamber of Commerce was organized with Dr. John Stanwood as president ; J. G. French first vice-president ; David Evans, second vice-president ; Lewis Bradt, secretary and R. A. Dullugge, treasurer. The directors were Abbot Kinney, J. D. Simpson, Dr. J. B. Sands, H. C. Mayes, F. E. Reid. R. A. Phillips, Henry Wildey. This organization has since its for- mation taken an active part in everything pertaining to the welfare of Venice. It has been especially concerned in furthering Mr. Kinney's plans for a deep-sea harbor. The Venice harbor will be the nearest to Los Angeles, the least costly to build, the casiest to enter and to leave. and the safest from storm of any on the Pacific Coast. The plans have been approved by the government and it is expected that they will be carried out in the near future. The Chamber of Commerce took a leading part in the effort for disincorporation ; in securing the location of a shoe factory, giving employment to thirty or more men, at Venice : in the proposed boulevard from Los Angeles by way of Palms, in securing the Polytechnic High School, and in many other ways it has worked for the advance- ment of the community. At its second annual meeting, the officers chosen were. Dr. J. A. Stanwood, president ; J. G. French, first vice-president : H. P. Eakins, second vice-president : W. A. Rennie, secretary ; R. A. Dullugge, treasurer. The executive committee consists of Abbot Kinney. Il. Wickizer. H. C. Mayes, Dr. J. M. White. T. R. Taylor, C. A. Stavenow.
PLAYA DEL REY.
The ocean frontage of La Ballona Rancho was known in early days as Ballona Slough. It consisted of marshy fields, broken by sand dunes, ponds and lagoons of salt water, which were considered to be utterly worthless except as a home for ducks and other game birds. About 1870, Will Tell, a German of convivial propensities built a shack, almost on the spot now occupied by the Del Rey hotel, which he called " Tell's Lookont." For several years he kept up this establishment, advertising himself as agent for "Don Keller's native wines and brandies," and furnishing boats, guns and fishing tackle for his patrons. His
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place was a favorite resort for Los Angeles sportsmen and many a party of distinguished guests partook of his native products and hunted duck in his boats. The locality was generally known as "Will Tell's " in those days.
In 1877 Michael Duffy, another royal host who will be remembered by many old timers, opened "Hunter's Cottage " in Tell's old location and was " prepared to furnish sportsmen with board and lodging for man and beast ; guns, ammuni- tions, boats and everything complete for hunter's outfit. Good fishing and bath- ing in the vicinity. Come and enjoy a few days sport and I will use every means to make it pleasant for you."
The flats of Ballona were looked upon as of value only to sportsmen until about 1885. The approach of the Atchinson, Topeka and Santa Fe railway, and the first rumblings of the approaching boom, brought many hitherto un- . dreamed of projects to the surface. One of these was the scheme of creating a harbor out of the lagoons of La Ballona slough. In the spring of 1886 the Ballona Harbor and improvement Company was organized by capitalists of Los Angeles, M. L. Wicks being the leading spirit in the enterprise at that time. Among the directors were James Campbell, F. Sabichi, H. W. Mills, E. H. Boyd, and Dr. Lotspeich.
The capital stock of the company was $300,000, Hugh Crabbe, an engineer of national reputation, was engaged to plan the work. It was proposed to exca- vate a channel 200 feet long by 300 wide which would let the tide into the lagoon at the point where Ballona creek entered the ocean. This, with dredging, would create an inner harbor two miles long and from 300 to 600 feet wide, with a depth of from six to twenty feet. It was declared that this harbor would float the fleets of the world. This harbor was to be the terminus of the Santa Fe, or Atlantic and Pacific, as it was then known, and was declared to be the nearest point to the Gulf of Mexico possible for an ocean port and 800 miles nearer to the Hawaian Islands than San Francisco. A franchise was granted to the Los Angeles and Santa Monica Railway, an offshoot of the Santa Fe, although or- ganized by the members of the Ballona Harbor Company, to construct a wharf and ship canal at Ballona and work was begun during the year. The Los An- geles Express comments on the work being done in December. 1886, and says, " The hills around the harbor afford splendid sites for residences and will doubt- less be rapidly covered with houses,"-a prediction which proved to be rather previous.
Monday, August 21st, 1887, the railroad line was completed and the first train brought an excursion party of about 300 people to inspect the harbor im- provements and make speeches on the "great future " of this Port Ballona. A large amount of dredging was done and a large amount of money-nearly $300,- 000 was spent during the three years in which work was carried on more or less spasmodically upon the proposed harbor. The directorate of the company changed, M. L. Wicks dropping out and Louis Mesmer, Juan Bernard and others
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coming in. By July 4th, 1888, work had come to a standstill and only a watch- man to guard the dredger and other property of the company was left on the ground. The Outlook in December, 1889, states that " The father of the Ballona Harbor scheme has been working on his pet project again. He is having the place cleaned up and getting ready to begin dredging again." But soon after- ward a storm carried away the greater portion of the wharf and deposited it along the shore at Santa Monica-where it was welcomed as firewood.
The dredger and barges were then taken away and Port Ballona became a thing of the past. Many causes operated to make the scheme impracticable,- the blue clay formation underneath the sand, the currents which brought sand back faster than it could be dredged out, and the failure of the Santa Fe system to co-operate with the projectors.
A last echo of the Ballona Harbor Company was heard in 1892, when they entered a vigorous protest against the abandonment of the railroad right of way to Ballona and the removal of the rails from that branch by the Southern Cali- fornia Railway Company. But the protest availed nothing-the road to Ballona was taken up and a new line to Santa Monica took its place.
For fifteen years after the abandoment of work upon the Port of Ballona, the lagoons and sand dunes remained a sportsman's paradise. The Recreation Gun Club purchased a large tract of the ocean frontage and the lagoons were only disturbed by the dipping of paddles and the echo of shot guns. Then came a new era of life for Ballona Slough.
In June, 1902, it was announced that a company of capitalists had incor- porated as the "Beach Land Company " and had purchased a thousand acres of land, including two and one-half miles of beach frontage from the Mesmer estate. This included the old Ballona Harbor. Among the incorporators were F. H. Rindge. M. H. Sherman, E. P. Clark, E. T. Earle, R. C. Gillis and a number of other prominent Southern California men. Henry P. Barbour was president of the company; M. H. Sherman and Arthur H. Fleming, vice-presi- dents ; A. I. Smith, secretary ; P. M. Green treasurer.
The plans of this company were most elaborate. The new resort was to be named " Playa del Rey ". The King's Beach, or the King's Playground, as it was later translated. The Los Angeles-Pacific Company would at once build to the harbor, which was to be improved. A $200,000 hotel was proposed. Plans were made and plats completed under the direction of a landscape gardener.
The company advertised their intentions liberally and the first sale of lots, July 16th, was a large one, many well known citizens being among the pur- chasers. Work was at once begun on grading and improvements. October Igth the electric road had cars running to Playa del Rey and a large number of excursionists visited the "King's Beach." Work continued steadily on the improvements during the next year. The lagoon, two miles long, of still water
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for bathing and boating proved itself a popular feature-even before its com- pletion. Forty boats and gasoline launches were provided for the accommoda- tion of patrons.
During the year the Redondo line was completed thus opening up a new district, and providing railway facilities for residents of the beach south of the harbor. In December, 1903, it was announced that an auto- mobile speedway from Los Angeles to Playa del Rey would be constructed under the auspices of the Southern California Automobile club. This boulevard would be eighteen miles in length, thirty feet wide and would be made the finest automobile road in the country.
With the opening of 1904 the rush of improvements at Playa del Rey in- creased. Plans were made for the pavilion, which was to be three stories in heighth, with restaurant and dining room, bowling alleys and dancing floor and ample provisions for picnic and banquets. Work on this structure was rushed and it was opened to the public with a grand celebration of the occasion, boat races, dancing, etc., on November 25th. The hotel Del Rey, a handsome structure containing fifty rooms was built this year by George A. Cook, a capitalist of Redlands who had become largely interested in Playa del Rey. Boat houses and bandstand were completed. A two story bank building had been erected and many handsome cottages had been completed along the lagoon and on the bluff. In June 1904 a post office was established at Playa del Rey, with Frank Lawton, lessee of the pavilion as postmaster. The electric line to Santa Monica was completed, thus giving a much improved car service, as the fare to Santa Monica was made five cents.
It is estimated that the Beach Land Company and the Los Angeles-Pacific Company spent at least $200,000 on the foundation work for this resort. Six- hundred acres of sand beach, rolling dunes and lofty bluffs were graded and prepared for building permanent residences. In leveling lands and excavating for the lagoon, more than 700,000 cubic yards of sand were used for filling in purposes. Sidewalks were constructed along the beach and the lagoon; a sewer system; water system and electric lights provided. An unusually high class of buildings was put up and the expectation of the projectors were largely realized, yet much still remained to make the resort all that was hoped for. During 1905, two suspension bridges were thrown across the lagoon and an incline railway constructed to the top of Mount Ballona, as the bluff is known. In April, through the efforts largely of Joseph Mesmer, Playa del Rey school district was organized, with 26 children.
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CHAPTER XII.
PACIFIC BRANCH NATIONAL HOME FOR DISABLED VETERANS.
T HE United States has made liberal provision for the support and care of hier volunteer soldiers. After allowing them pensions and land bounties, it became evident as early as 1865 that a large class of disabled and elderly veterans required care and attention which could only be given in an insti- tution especially adapted to the purpose. In consequence of this demand, Con- gress passed an act establishing a National Home for Disabled Volunteer Soldiers, in 1865. Later branches of this home were established in various parts of the United States. These establishments are governed by a Board of Managers, subject to the supervision of the War Department. There are now ten Homes in the United States.
In March, 1887, an act authorizing the establishment of the Pacific Coast branch was passed by congress and in November of that year a commission of which Gen. William B. Franklin, president of the National Board of Managers : Col. William Blanding, of San Francisco: Col. E. P. Brown, Gen. James S. Negley and six other members of the National Board, were members, met in San Francisco to consider the several propositions which had been made for sites for the new branch. A large number of propositions were submitted from every section of the state. 'Many of these were generous in providing free land and other inducements to secure the Home ; but only two offers were made of a free site and also a cash bonus.
The commissioners, after a careful consideration of the proposals, visited the various localities selected as worthy of serious consideration. A number of offers had been made from Southern California localities. One which presented many favorable points was near San Diego. Another very generous offer was that of the Inglewood-Centinella people. The choice in Southern California, however, soon narrowed down to two proposals,-that of the Hesperia Land and Water Co., of San Bernardino county, offering 500 acres of land, with water, and $250,000 cash : and that of Messrs. Jones, Baker and Wolfskill, offer- ing 300 acres of land, a supply of water equal to 120,000 gallons per day, and $100,000 in cash-to be expended in improving the grounds.
The commission after going carefully over the land, investigating the sources of water supply and the conditions generally, were banqueted at the hotel Arcadia and left for the north. They left California without announcing a decision ; but before reaching Washington, they decided by a vote of eight to two, to accept the Santa Monica proposition. In December, 1887, Col. Charles
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Treichel, of Philadelphia, was appointed governor of the new branch and in January, 1888, he arrived on the ground and took charge of the preparations for the establishment of the institution.
The branches are all under the management of the National Board of Man- agers, with a local manager and a corps of officers. The officials are always men who have served with honor as officers of the United States Army. Colonel Treichel, the first governor of the Pacific Branch, made a brilliant record with the Army of the Potomac. He was several time wounded, and the end of the war found him Major of the Third Pennsylvania Cavalry and Brevet Colonel of the U. S. Volunteers. Under his direction work was begun to supply the grounds selected as the site of the buildings with a sufficient amount of water from temporary wells, while the survey for a pipe line and reservoirs was made under the supervision of Col. Mendell, of the U. S. Survey force. By July 4th, the first building on the grounds, "Junipero cottage " was nearly ready for use by the governor and the flag pole was in place for the raising of the flag which marked the occupancy of the grounds by the U. S. government.
The location of this branch has proved to be almost ideal. Owing to the failure of " boom " laid plans, the cash bonus was not paid to the govern- ment by the Wolfskill ranch owners, but in lieu of this they placed at the disposal of the Home a tract of 330 acres, thus giving the government over 600 acres of land, a large part of which was tillable. The site chosen for the buildings was a gently sloping elevation, commanding a fine view, sheltered from winds of the north by mountains and open to the ocean breezes. It was planned to distribute the buildings in the form of a crescent, facing the south, and this general plan has been followed. The early appropriations were not large and at first the buildings were very simple in design and structure. The first barracks were completed in December, 1888, and were at once filled, a number of old soldiers having collected about the Home and been accom- modated in camps until the buildings were ready. The dining hall and hospital were also built this year.
Up to the present, eleven barracks have been put up. Each is two stories, surrounded on three sides by verandas and equipped with all modern conveniences. From 150 to 200 men are accommodated in each, under the government of one of their own number who is known as "Captain." who is responsible for the conduct and order of his building.
The dining hall and kitchen have been several times enlarged. The kitchen is provided with every convenience for facilitating the work of pre- paring three meals a day for from 1,000 to 1.500 people. The dining hall will now seat nearly a thousand men at a time. As the appropriations have come in from year to year, new buildings which provide for the comfort and happi- ness of the old soldiers have been erected. For many years the library was
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located in the Headquarters building ; but in 1906 Markham Hall, a handsome structure was erected. On the lower floor is a beautiful and well appointed library and reading room. Above is an assembly room for the use of various societies and public meetings. In 1900 the chapel was erected. This is a pretty building, unique in that under one roof is a Protestant and a Catholic church-separated by a thick wall. The organ in the Protestant chapel was prestend by T. H. Hatch, a member of the home-a musician and composer. The new hospital, built in 1904, is most complete. Here the old veterans receive every attention that can be given in the best equipped of private hos- pitals. A corps of nurses is employed. Ward Memorial Hall, built in 1898, provides a fully equipped stage and a pleasant gathering place for amusements, concerts, and so on.
The buildings are all surrounded by carefully kept grounds, which are adorned with trees and flowers. This is one of the most beautifully arranged and kept parks in the country, and the climate gives perpetual bloom and greenness, making it a perennial garden of beauty. The many trees which have been set out on the Home grounds have now attained a fine growth and some of the long avenues through the reservation are delightful and enticing drives and walks.
A large amount of hay and grain are raised on the place each year, beside all the vegetables and most of the fruit required for the table. Now the citrus fruit orchards are coming into bearing and considerable shipments of fruit are made beside supplying the Home. Fine stock-cattle, horses and hogs, are kept and thus the Home is in part self-supporting. In 1903-4 the farm is reported as netting $25,069 to the institution.
The postoffice at the Home was established October Ist, 1889, with Henry T. Lenty as postmaster. In 1895 it was made a money order office with all the facilities of a city office. A large amount of business is transacted yearly through this office, the money order department especially handling an unusual volume of business as many of the members send a portion, at least, of their pension funds to families.
The Home is abundantly supplied with water for domestic use and for irrigation. The first arrangement was a series of reservoirs in Rustic canyon with a pipe line to the grounds. During the dry seasons of 1898-1900 this source of water supply proved insufficient and wells were put down. Later arrangements were made with the West Los Angeles Water Company to supply water and in 1905 the government made an appropriation for a storage reservoir to hold a million gallons of water. This is located on the Home grounds. An electric light and power plant was erected on the grounds and
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furnished the needed "juice " for the Home until 1902 when contracts were made with the Edison company to supply the service.
Since the establishment of the Pacific Branch about $800,000 has been expended by the government in permanent improvements. The annual expendi- tures of the institution average about $350,000. Between $200,000 and $300,000 is paid annually as pensions to the members of the Home. It will be seen that this means a large amount of money which is annually expended largely in Southern California and much of which is turned into local channels. Beside this, the beautiful grounds and the whole institution is a great attraction and one in which the people of Southern California and particularly of the Santa Monica Bay Region take great pride.
The first governor of the Pacific Branch, Col. Treichel, died March 28th, 1894, having always suffered from the effect of the wounds received during the war. He had shown himself an able man and had brought the institution safely through the most critical years of its existence and created a beautiful and orderly home, well managed and popular among the veterans of the west, for whose benefit it was intended. Col. Treichel had contended with many difficulties and obstacles in laying the foundations of so large an establish- ment ; but he had given himself to the work with great devotion.
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