USA > Hawaii > Honolulu: sketches of life, social, political, and religious, in the Hawaiian Islands from 1828 to 1861 > Part 1
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http://www.archive.org/details/honolulusketches00juddrich
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LAURA FISH JUDD.
HONOLULU
SKETCHES OF LIFE
SOCIAL, POLITICAL; AND RELIGIOUS,
IN THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS
A
FROM 1828 TO 1861.
RY LAURA FISH JUDD.
WITH A SUPPLEMENTARY SKETCH OF EVENTS TO 1880.
NEW YORK ANSON D. F. RANDOLPH & COMPANY
COPYRIGHT. 1880, BY ANSON D. F. RANDULPH & COMPANY.
NEW YORK: EDWARD O. JENKINS, PRINTER, 20 North William St.
Add'1 GIFT
DU 627 8
INTRODUCTORY NOTE.
As the reader will see, this book is not designed to be a history of the Hawaiian Islands. It does not occupy the field taken by the historians Dibble, Bingham or Jarves, nor that of the later writers, Nordhoff, Miss Bird or Mr. Chaney. My mother's narrative is a compilation of the personal recollections of one who had rare oppor- tunities for observation among the chiefs and people of Hawaii from the year 1828.
The intimate connection of my father with Hawaiian history would entitle him to say without egotism, "Quo- rum pars magna fui," and this work is occupied so largely with describing his agency in building the ship of State of this little kingdom, that it may be regarded more as a tribute to his memory, than as an attempt at history-writing.
But few of the actors in the scenes portrayed now survive, and the twenty years that have elapsed since they were written have, I trust, dulled the sensitiveness of those who might think some of the reflections are too severe or of too personal a nature to be published. Every new fact added to our knowledge is valuable, and I have withheld none from this record, though by this
(iii)
835
iv
Introductory Note.
course I may possibly excite unfriendly criticism. In a supplementary chapter I have brought the narrative of events down to the present time.
The Hawaiian kingdom still stands prosperous and respected, making and executing its own laws, its auton- omy preserved. It occupies but a little share of the world's attention, but it presents to-day the only instance of a nation lifted from the darkness of heathenism to the light of Christian civilization without the destruction of the native Government.
ALBERT FRANCIS JUDD.
¡ HONOLULU, Oct. 1, 1880.
PREFACE.
THE writer of these unpretending sketches does not claim for them any literary merit. Her friends, at whose request the work is published, will excuse the egotism which unavoidably runs through it. She has endeav- ored to obtrude personal feelings and affairs as little as possible.
If the coloring is partial, or should be thought by some too deeply shaded, it must be remembered that the views are sketched from her own stand-point.
If there are missing links in the chain of events, the author has only to say that she has not pretended to write a history of the Hawaiian kingdom, but has culled and abridged from the mass of papers before her, so as to present the important incidents of each year in pano- rama, omitting much in order to avoid personalities and tediousness. If the work should awaken any interest for the races of Polynesia, if it draw forth one tear of sympathy for the nations yet in darkness, one prayer for the rising of the Sun of Righteousness, her ambition will be satisfied.
HONOLULU, May, 1861.
(v)
5
CONTENTS.
I. PAGE First Sight of Hawaii-Oahu-Arrival-What I Saw-Welcome I
Extracts from an Old Journal-Passage in the Ship Parthian-
II.
Landing-The Carriages-Call on Kaahumanu-The Rabble- Mission House-Reception-Dinner-Kaahumanu-The Na- tives-Chiefs-Strange Sights and Sounds 4
III.
Kitchen Incident-Servants-My Birthday Walk-Native Huts and Habits-Presents-Kaahumanu-Visiting the Sick-Lydia Namahana-Robert and Hakahii-Sea Captains-Call on Boki -What I Saw There . 9
IV.
Laundry-English Consul's Lady and her Sister-Visiting the Sick -Kaahumanu-Ruth-Mrs. Bingham-Shirts and a Coat for Royalty-Letter to a Friend-Weddings in Church-Fees- Death of Robert and Wife . 14
V.
Assembling of Missionaries-A Sick Child-Fashions-The Chil- dren - Native School Exhibition - Dress-Progress - Rival Families of Chiefs-Principles .
(vii) . 19
viii
Contents.
VI.
Visit to Lahaina-Yachting-Native Navigators-Lahaina-The
King and Princess-Language . · 23
VII.
Visit to Wailuku-Chair Bearers-Our Host-Return over the Mountains-Booths-Bird Catchers and Feather Tax-July 4th 26
VIII.
The House-Commencing School-The Weather-Short Allow-
. 30 ance-Foraging-Relief
IX.
Arrival of the Honqua-Letters and Supplies-Reflections-Let- ter to Mrs. C .- Mother, etc .- Native Mothers and Children- Infanticide-One Rescued . · 33
X.
Arrival of the Vincennes-C. S. Stewart-The Dolphin-Laws- King's Reception of Captain Finch-Presents-Behind the Curtain-A Tea-Party · 36
XI.
The New Church-Preparations for the Dedication-A Dilemma . 39
XII.
Visit to Hawaii-Health Station-Captains Rice and Smith-Cap- tain Cook's Heart-His Death-Birth-place of Obookaiah- The Heiau-Kapiolani-Kawaihae-John Young-Waimea- Waip o · 42
XIII.
Death of Kaahumanu-The New Testament-Incidents-Kinau, as Kaahumanu II .- The East India Squadron . · 47
·
ix
Contents.
XIV.
Changes for the Worse, 1832-Kaomi-Kinau-Boki in 1829-His Departure-Madam Boki-A Revolution-A Settlement-Gov- ernor Adams-Reverend John Diell, Seamen's Chaplain . . 51
XV.
Religious Interest-Visits from House to House-Kinau as a Housekeeper-As a Friend-Auhea-Her Tea-Party .
. 56
XVI.
Birth of Prince Alexander-Adopted by the King-What took place-Nahienaena : her Death and Funeral .
. 59
XVII.
Mr. Richards' First Embassy-The King's Marriage-The Dona- tion to the Church-Hilo-The Volcano-Half-way House- Night at the Crater-The Descent-Stone Church at Honolulu 62
XVIII.
Children of Missionaries-How to be Educated-Different Opin- ions . . 67 XIX.
Schools for Native Children-School-House-Materials . 69
XX.
Reinforcements - Household Duties - Discussions - Location - A Maternal Association-More Discussions-A New School- room-School for Young Chiefs-Birth of a Princess-Prince Alexander-English Finery-November Weather . 71
XXI.
Temperance in 1839-Security-Education in the Native Language -Political Economy-Mr. Richards-Feudal System-Laws --- Dr. Judd-Difficulties-French Priests-Proselytes-Idolatry- Arrival of La Place-His Demands-Reflections-The East India Squadron under Commodore Read-Death of Kinau . 78
X
Contents.
XXII.
Sickness and Death of a Child-Hoohano, a Medical Student-
Native Poetry-Death of a Midshipman . . 85
XXIII.
Second Visit to Wailuku-Lahaina Luna-Hard Traveling-Over the Isthmus-Welcome-Changes at Wailuku-Female Board- ing-schools-Sickness among the Pupils-East Maui, the Wheat Region 88
XXIV.
The King and Premier-Return to Lahaina-Intemperance-Be- ginning of Reform-Return to Honolulu-Trouble on Board the Schooner-The Royal School-Changes in the Mission- Punahou School-Departure of Mr. and Mrs. Bingham . · 92
XXV.
Kapiolani-Caves at Kaawaloa-A Crazy Woman Exploring- What She Found-Kapiolani tells Stories-Consequences of Violating a Taboo-Surgical Operation-Death of Kapiolani . 96
XXVI.
The United States Exploring Expedition-Their Operations- A Picnic-Ascent of Mauna Loa-Dr. Judd's Letter-His Danger and Escape -Our First Thanksgiving-More about the Expedition-A Native Trick-Mr. and Mrs. Jarves . · IOG
XXVII.
The Belgian Contract-A Lease of all Unoccupied Lands-Object of the Lease-Mr. Brinsmade's Departure-Temperance at Lahaina-Plans of the Government-Departure of Richards and Haalilio-The English Consul Follows-Deputy Consul not Acknowledged-Commissions-Dr. Judd's Salary-One More Commission-Letter of Dr. Judd to the Mission-A Vote of Thanks-A Word of Change-What Mr. Brinsmade did . 106
xi
Contents.
1
XXVIII.
G. P. Judd to the Envoy-Sir George Simpson's Views-About Lands-Extract from another Letter-The Lands Recorded- A Lawyer . Wanted-Letters-Mr. Richards-Temperance- Tobacco Reform-The Great Commandment-The Govern- ment Commenced-Queen Pomare-A French Ship-of-War- A Narrow Escape-Letter to Mrs. L. on the Training of Chil- dren . · II2
XXIX.
Cession of the Islands to Great Britain-A.rival of the Carysfort- Revenge of the Deputy-Consul-Arrival of the King-Deputy acknowledged-More Demands-Dark Days-Many Men of many Minds-The King gives up-Flag changed-Islands governed by a Commission-King returns to Lahaina-G. P. Judd to Envoys-Arrival of the Constellation-Admiral Thomas arrives-He restores the Flag-The Ceremonies- United States Commissioner and English Consul-General . . II8
XXX.
My First Diplomatic Dinner-Our New Home-A Daughter Born under the English Flag-Why the Hawaiian Flag was Restored-My Husband Ill-John Ricord-Secretary of For- eign Affairs-The Soldiers Pardoned-Restoration Party- The Census Improvements-Mr. Damon-The New Palace - Restoration Anthem .
. 125
XXXI.
Letter of President Tyler-A Declaration-William Richards to G. P. Judd-Mr. Brinsmade's Letter-Prospects of Failure- Sir Geo. Simpson's Letter-Belgian Hopes and Promises-Ad- miral Thomas' Parting Address-Parting Salutations-Ship of State fairly Launched-Mr. Ricord-Mr. Wyllie-Dr. Judd- Mr. Richards' Return-Mourning for Haalilio-Leleihoku- Death of Gov. Adams ; his Effects-A Struggle-Haalilio- Death of Auhea ; her History
. I33
xii
Contents.
XXXII.
King resides at Honolulu-Furnishing a Palace-The Queen- Going to Church-Rivalry-Our Removal-Boarders-Politics in the Family-Trouble with George Brown-Trouble Gen- erally-Mr. Richards' Troubles-Visit of Sir Geo. F. Seymour -Agitation at Lahaina-The King to Petitioners-King's Ad-
. dresses-John Young's Addresses-The Oath of Allegiance- The Native Government Supreme . 14I
XXXIII.
Letter from a Distinguished Traveler-Opening of the Legislative Chambers-Feather Cloak-The Diplomatic Corps-Female Legislators-The King's Speech-The Traveler's Testimony- Sabbath Evening Service at the Palace-The King's Birthday -An Accident-Letter from a Correspondent-Dr. Judd's Letter
. 151
XXXIV.
Mr. Wyllie's Report for 1844-Arrival of Admiral Hamelin-The $20,000 Returned-Entertainments-New Treaties-Statistics -Native Girls-History of Kaili-A Pattern Life . 159
XXXV.
Remove to a New House-The Bridges Gone-Going to Church -Nuuanu Road-A Grand Celebration, July 31-Eatables- The New Commissioner-The New United States Consul- King's Address-Mr. Brinsmade returned-More Trouble- The Arbitration-Mr. Richards Sick-Mr. Ricord resigns- Judge Lee-Changes among the Missionaries-New Buildings and Old Ones-Embarrassments-Death of Mr. Richards- Funeral
. 164
XXXVI.
Extracts from Journal, 1848-Mr. Jarves resigns-Mr. Dillon arrives and Bishop Maigret-Massacre of Dr. and Mrs. Whit- man at Oregon-Portrait of Louis Philippe-Opening of the Legislature-Intemperance and Temperance-Report of Min- ister of the Interior-Hamburg Treaty-Louis Philippe De- throned-Gold in California-A. B. Bates and Family arrived
xiii
Contents.
-Reminiscences-Trouble Ahead-The Measles-The Land Commission-Committee to Divide the Lands-Mr. Armstrong -The Young Princes . 172
XXXVII.
School Composition-Old Hannah-Her Fortune-Extract of a Letter from a Prince .
. . 181
XXXVIII.
Journal, 1849-Death of Alapai-Arrival of Admiral de Tromelin -Courtesies-Arrival of the Steamer Gassendi-Imperative Demands-Destruction of the Fort-Seizure of Vessels-Visit of Madame Dillon-Negotiations-The Yacht Carried Off-My Husband Going to France . 184
XXXIX.
Visit of U. S. Ship St. Mary's-Address of Commodore Voorhies -The President's Message-E. H. Allen, United States Con- sul-Breakfast at the Palace-Letters from Dr. Judd and the Princes-California-The Treaty-At the Irving House-In London-At the Foreign Office-In Paris-The British Am- bassador-Protracted Negotiations-The Princes Employed -Presentation to Louis Napoleon-The Greek Ambassador- Duc de Broglie-Guizot-Mr. Rives-Return to London . · 192
XL.
The Embassy in England-Visit to Admiral Thomas-Plymouth The Adelphi-Lord Palmerston-Lord George Paulet and Lieutenant Frere-Buckingham Palace-The French Ambas- sador-Dining Out-The Treaty Discussed-Mr. Wyllie's Letter -
. 203
XLI.
Return to the U. S .- Letter from one of the Princes-Washing- ion-Funeral of Calhoun-Reception at President Taylor's- Letter from Dr. Judd-An Anecdote-Daniel Webster-Fête Champétre at Staten Island-Niagara-Return to the Islands -Results of the Embassy . . 208
xiv
Contents.
XLII.
Mr. Armstrong's Address-Good Advice-Events in 1850 and 1851 -Royal Haw. Agricultural Soc .- Judge Lee's Address-Ex- tract from Mr. Wyllie's Address-Don Marin's Journal-His Character-Eruption on Mauna Loa-Distilling and Wine- Making
· 212
XLIII.
Filibusters-Report of Minister-Military Preparations-Counter Arguments-The Atmosphere Clearing up-Progress . . 219
XLIV.
A Dark Chapter-The Small-pox-How Introduced-Vaccination -Board of Health-Sedition Fomented-Indignation Meet- ings-Chmmittee of Thirteen-Petitions-Panic at the Palace -Resignation of the Ministers-A Torchlight Procession-Dr. Judd a Private Citizen-Letter from Lahaina . 222
XLV.
Hopes of Annexation-A Fourth of July Celebration-Death of Kamehameha III .- His Character-A Commoner's Biography 227
XLVI.
Honolulu in 1861-Statistics-Census-Buildings-The Queen's Hospital - Markets-Lawyers and Doctors-King Kame- hameha IV .- A Free Press-The Catholics-Amusements- Climate-Cemetery-The People-Present Wants . . 233
APPENDIX I .- Letter from Dr. Judd to Mr. Wyllie . . 239
APPENDIX II .- Recent History of the Hawaiian Islands · . 249
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I.
EXTRACTS FROM AN OLD JOURNAL.
Extracts from an Old Journal-Passage in the Ship "Parthian"-First Sight of Hawaii -- Oahu-Arri- val-What I Saw-Welcome.
SHIP "Parthian," March, 1828.
R IGHT before us, up in the clouds, and apparently distant but a stone's throw, appears a spot of beau- tiful, deep blue, intermingled with dazzling white. It is land !- the snow-capped summit of Mauna Kea, on the island of Hawaii. Among the passengers the ex- citement is intense and variously expressed ; some rush below to their state-rooms to pour out their hearts in gratitude and thanksgiving, others fear to turn away lest the scene fade or prove a delusion, like our dreams of home land ; some exhaust their vocabulary in exclamations of delight-others sit alone in tears and silence.
What wonder that we so long for release from this little prison-house ! We have suffered many hardships, often unexpected. The ladies, ten in number, have been obliged to perform the drudgery of steward and cabin- boy, as the services of these functionaries have been de- nied us by the captain, although, mirabile dictu, he did in his condescension allow his black cook to prepare our food after his, if furnished and conveyed to the ship's galley. We possessed but little practical knowledge of the arts of the cuisine at first, but have sometimes as-
2
Honolulu.
tonished each other and ourselves at our success in pro- ducing palatable dishes, and most of all, light bread. These trials of patience and skill will be of use to u's in our future housekeeping.
The voyage is now over, but I must run on deck to look again on that deep blue spot. The ship glides along smoothly ; the clouds open-the blue space has become a broad mountain ; now we see the green valleys and dashing cascades all along the northern shores of the island. The scene reminds one of the pilgrim's land of Beulah. Can anything so fair be defiled by idol worship and deeds of cruelty ?
We shall pass the island of Maui to-night, and reach Oahu to-morrow, which will be Sunday. We have packed our baggage in the smallest possible compass, and have everything ready to go ashore on Monday morning. We retire to rest with mingled anticipations of pain and pleasure. For once we regret that to-mor- row will be the Sabbath ; we look up for guidance-our Heavenly Father will pity us.
SUNDAY MORNING, March 30.
The island of Oahu, our Ultima Thule, looms up in the distance, displaying gray and red rocky hills, unrelieved by a single shade of green, forbidding enough in aspect. Now we pass the old crater, Diamond Head, and we can see a line of cocoanut trees stretching gracefully along the sea beach for a mile or more. "Please give me the glass for a moment. There! I see the town of Honolulu, a mass of brown huts, looking precisely like so many hay- stacks in the country; not one white cottage, no church spire, not a garden nor a tree to be seen save the grove of cocoanuts. The background of green hills and moun- tains is picturesque. A host of living, moving beings
3
The Arrival.
are coming out of that long, brown building ; it must be Mr. Bingham's congregation just dismissed from morning service ; they pour out like bees from a hive. I can see their draperies of brown, black, white, pink and yellow native tapa."
Hark! there goes a gun for the pilot; our captain seems somewhat flurried ; afraid of the land, perhaps; I surely am not. How I long for a run on those green hills ! But patience till to-morrow.
Evening-our last one on board the Parthian. We have sung our last evening hymn together. Mutual suf- fering has created mutual sympathy, and we separate in Christian friendship.
We received a short but welcome visit from Messrs. Bingham, Chamberlain and Goodrich, on their way to hold service on board the ship Enterprise. They look careworn and feeble; Mr. W- said " hungry." They gave us a cordial welcome to their field of labor, which they describe as "whitening for the harvest." Mr.
Goodrich brought some sugar cane and fresh lavender ; the fragrance of the latter made me wild with delight. I have been on deck to look at the town and harbor. There are flitting lights among the shipping, but none visible on shore. The houses are windowless, looking dark and dreary as possible. " Here we are to live and labor," said good Dr. Worcester, " until the land is filled with churches, school-houses, fruitful fields and pleasant dwellings." When will it be?
II.
Landing-The Carriages-Call on Kaahumanu- The Rabble-Mission House-Reception-Dinner- -Kaahumanu - The Natives - Chiefs - Strange Sights and Sounds.
MISSION HOUSE, March 31.
W E passed a sleepless night; the vessel being at anchor we missed the accustomed rocking. At nine o'clock this morning we were handed over the ship's side (by our kind and unwearying friend Mr. S-, the mate), into the launch, and were towed ashore, twenty in number, passing quite a fleet of ships, on board of which we saw native men and women.
Landing at the Fort we were received by the acting Governor, Manuia, a very gentlemanly-looking person, dressed in half military costume. He spoke a little En- glish as he escorted us to the gate, where vehicles were ready to take us to the Mission, a mile distant. These vehicles consisted of a yellow one-horse wagon and two blue hand-carts, all drawn by natives, and kindly furnished by the Queen Regent, Kaahumanu ; but I could not be persuaded to ride in such style, and begged to walk with my husband.
We stopped on the way at the door of the royal lady, who joined our procession after welcoming us most cor- dially to her dominions. She is tall, stately, and digni- fied; often overbearing in her manner, but with a countenance beaming with love whenever she addresses
5
Native Fashions.
her teachers. She was dressed in striped satin, blue and pink, with a white muslin shawl and Leghorn bonnet, the latter worn doubtless in compliment to us, as the common head-dress is a wreath of feathers or flowers.
We were followed all the way from the landing by a crowd of natives, men, women and children, dressed and undressed. Many of the men wore a sheet of native cloth, tied on one shoulder, not unlike the Roman toga ; one had a shirt minus pantaloons, another a pair of pant- aloons minus a shirt ; while a large number were destitute of either. One man looked very grand with an umbrella and shoes, the only foreign articles he could command. The women were clad in native costume, the pau, which consists of folds of native cloth about the hips, leaving the shoulders and waist quite exposed ; a small number donned in addition a very feminine garment made of unbleached cotton, drawn close around the neck, which was quite becoming. Their hair was uncombed and their faces unwashed, but all of them were good natured. Our appearance furnished them much amusement; they laughed and jabbered, ran on in advance, and turned back to peer into our faces. I laughed and cried too, and hid my face for very shame.
We reached the Mission House at last and were ush- ered into Mr. Bingham's parlor, the walls of which were naked clapboards, except one side newly plastered with lime, made by burning coral stone from the reef. After being presented and welcomed, Mr. Bingham took his hymn-book and selected the hymn commencing :
" Kindred in Christ, for His dear sake."
Some of the company had sufficient self-control to join in the singing, but I was choking; I had made great efforts all the morning to be calm, and to control an over
.
6
Honolulu.
flowing heart, but when we knelt around that family altar, I could no longer subdue my feelings.
A sumptuous dinner, consisting of fish, fowl, sweet potatoes, taro, cucumbers, bananas, watermelons and sweet water, from a mountain spring, had thoughtfully been provided by the good queen. As we had not tasted fruit or vegetables for months, it was difficult to satisfy our thoroughly salted appetites with fresh food.
Kaahumanu treated us like pet children, examined our eyes and hair, felt of our arms, criticised our dress, re- marking the difference between our fashions and those of the pioneer ladies, who still wear short waists and tight sleeves, instead of the present long waists, full skirts, and leg-of-mutton sleeves. She says that one of our number must belong exclusively to her, live with her, teach her, make dresses for her, and instruct her women in all do- mestic matters, so that she can live as we do. As the choice is likely to fall on me, I am well pleased, for I have taken a great fancy to the old lady.
After dinner she reclined on a sofa and received vari- ous presents sent by friends in Boston. Mr. Bingham read letters from Messrs. Stewart, Loomis, and Ellis to her. She listened attentively, her tears flowed freely, and she could only articulate the native expression, " aloha ino" (love intense.) At four o'clock she said she was tired, and must go home; accordingly her retinue were summoned, some twenty in number, one bearing the " kahili" (a large feather fly brush and badge of rank), another an umbrella, still another her spittoon, etc., etc. She took each of us by the hand, and kissed each one in the Hawaiian style, by placing her nose against our cheeks and giving a sniff, as one would inhale the frag- rance of flowers. After repeating various expressions of affectionate welcome and pleasure at the arrival of so
7
An Island Queen.
many fresh laborers, she seated her immense stateline ss in her carriage, which is a light hand-cart, painted tur- quoise blue, spread with fine mats and several beautiful damask and velvet covered cushions. It was drawn by half a dozen stout men, who grasped the rope in pairs, and marched off as if proud of the royal burden. The old lady rides backward, with her feet hanging down behind the cart, which is certainly a safe, if not conve- nient, mode of travelling. As she moved away, waving her hand and smiling, Mrs. Bingham remarked, “We love her very much, although the time is fresh in our memories when she was very unlovely ; if she deigned to extend her little finger to us, it was esteemed a mark of distinguished consideration." She was naturally haughty, and was then utterly regardless of the life and happiness of her subjects. What has wrought this great change in her disposition and manner? Let those who deny the efficiency of divine grace explain it, if they can.
Crowds of curious, but good natured people have thronged the premises the whole day, every door and pane of glass has been occupied with peering eyes, to get a glimpse of "the strangers." I have shaken hands with hundreds, and exchanged "aloha" with many more. We seem to be regarded as but little lower than the angels, and the implicit confidence of these people in our goodness is almost painful.
The chiefs of both sexes are fine looking, and move about with the easy grace of conscious superiority. Three or four of them, to whom we have been introduced to-day, visited England in the suite of King Liholiho, and were presented at the Court of St. James'. They dress well, in fine broadcloths and elegant silks, procured in exchange for sandal wood, which is taken to China and sold at an immense profit ; fortunes have been made
8
Honolulu.
by certain merchants in this traffic, (honorable, of course, especially when the hand or foot was used on the scales !) Our captain told us that some of the chiefs had paid eight hundred and a thousand dollars for mirrors not worth fifty.
March 31. Nine o'clock in the evening.
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