USA > Hawaii > Honolulu: sketches of life, social, political, and religious, in the Hawaiian Islands from 1828 to 1861 > Part 7
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Governor Kekuanaoa aided most generously in erecting the buildings, and the chiefs were liberal in their appro- priations. The most delicate and difficult task to perform was the separation of the young princes from doating guardians and a host of attendants of both sexes, whose business of a life-time had been to follow their footsteps and anticipate their wants. Trained in every indulgence, and petted by such a retinue of servants, how could they be subdued to order and taught self-reliance ?
The choice of teachers was most happy. In Mrs. Cooke the pupils enjoyed the instructions of an educated and intellectual woman, combined with the cheerful, ju- dicious counsels of an affectionate mother. It was a great pleasure to visit them and trace their progress in mastering that difficult language-the English-through the medium of which they acquired, in due time, a knowledge of all the branches necessary for a substantial education. A natural taste for music and drawing was also cultivated, in which many of them excelled.
Three sons and one daughter of our lamented Premier, Kinau, were pupils in this school. We loved them very tenderly for their mother's sake, and did not forget her dying charge, to watch over and care for them. Many fond hopes were cherished that these young chiefs would graduate from the school with the endowments of wisdom and piety. The care of this school went into Mr. Richards' hands when he was appointed Minister of Public Instruction.
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Changes in the Mission.
The Mission was undergoing great changes at this time. Large families, with increasing demands for sup- port and education, were revolutionizing the old system of common stock. Aid in teaching the older children was imperiously demanded. The Gloucester arrived in 1841, and brought the Rev. D. Dole and wife, who were willing to turn aside from ordinary missionary labor among the natives, and commence a school expressly for the children of the missionary families. A fine location was chosen at Punahou, situated two miles from Hono- lulu, at the entrance of the beautiful valley of Manoa.
This land was a gift to Mr. Bingham from Governor Boki, just before the latter sailed on his wild enterprise after sandal-wood. It contains living springs of pure cold water, and embraces all the requisites of a little paradise. Foundations of coral stone were laid, upon which the new adobe buildings were to be erected, en- closing two courts. This portion of the labor fell to Dr. Judd. Mr. E. O. Hall enclosed the premises with a high stone wall.
Our old and tried friends, Mr. and Mrs. Bingham, left the islands in 1840, to seek health and rest in their native land, but with the prospect of returning in eighteen months, a prospect which was never fulfilled.
XXV.
Kapiolani-Caves at Kaawaloa -A Crazy Woman Exploring-What She Found - Kapiolani tells Stories-Consequences of Violating a Taboo-Sur gical Operation-Death of Kapiolani.
1841.
A BOUT the year 1821, as one of the pioneer mis- sionaries was walking on the sea-shore, he saw, sitting on a rock, a large, finely-proportioned native woman, saturating her dusky skin with the fragrant cocoanut oil, and basking in a tropical noon-day sun, like a seal or sea-elephant. It is difficult to believe this per sonage to have been our present lady-like and sensitive Kapiolani .* You have seen her name in print often, as she was the heroic woman who ventured into the tabooed crater of the goddess Pele, against the remonstrances of her terror-stricken attendants, who watched her descent, expecting to see her swallowed up in the fiery embrace of the incensed deity. She accompanied Mr. and Mrs. Ruggles and ourselves into the sacred enclosure at Hoo- naunau, forbidden to women in the olden time; no one but Kaahumanu had been bold enough to tread the en- chanted ground. Naihe, her stern and lordly husband, sometimes rebukes her audacity in tampering with an- cient usages and superstitions. One reason may be that
* The present Queen, wife of King Kalakaua, is named Kapiolani. after the subject of this sketch.
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Unwrapping Idols.
he is the guardian of those old tombs of kings and chief- tains, which is an honorable and sacred trust.
The high rocky bluff, just back of their villa at Kaa- waloa, where Captain Cook fell, is full of caves where a long line of old warrior kings are sleeping. One bright day when Mrs. Ruggles and I were alone with Kapiolani, we sat down and watched the movements of a crazy woman who had climbed the precipice, and spent the day in passing in and out of the different caves, and in airing and throwing down those secreted treasures of centuries. We expected she would fall and be dashed in pieces, as the giddy height she attained appeared in- accessible to other than ærial beings.
What was our surprise, just after lamplight, to see her enter the door and deposit at Naihe's feet a huge bundle done up in black kapa. "Here it is," she said, " I have been busy all day airing your property." He gave her a blow with his cane, and demanded how she dared ven- ture into such a tabu place, and bade her restore every thing as she found it, the next day.
Kapiolani watched the proceedings in silence for a few moments, and then whispered to Mrs. Ruggles and myself to interfere with the decision of her husband. "Let us see what is in the mysterious bundle," she said, "it is of no use to the dead." Naihe gave the bundle a push with his cane, adding, " Do what you like with it."
Our curiosity was greatly excited while Dr. Judd re- moved the wrappings of kapa. First came a hideous idol, with staring eyes and grinning teeth of white pearl shell, and a tuft of human hair on the top of the head. Then another smaller one, less hideous, of similar work- nanship. These were household gods, and buried with their proprietors. "Send them to your friends in America," said Kapiolani, "and tell them such were our
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gods, before you sent us the Bible." There were various other articles, such as polished cocoanut shells, a canoe paddle, mats, and a variety of kapa, all supposed to be useful in the "spirit land."
Kapiolani was very much excited, and after the crazy crone was disposed of and the treasures distributed among her guests, she entertained us with stories and incidents of her childhood.
Bananas and various kinds of fish were forbidden to women under the old system. One day she resolved to taste the banana, and risk the consequences if detected. Another girl was with her of equal rank and years. They concealed the fruit as well as they could with the palm of the hand and thumb, and rushed into the sea to bathe and eat the forbidden fruit. An eagle-eyed priest discovered them; they were tried for the ungodly deed and condemned to suffer the penalty, which was poverty, loss of rank, and to remain unmarried. This they must suffer, unless suitable expiation could be made. The priest suggested the sacrifice of a little boy, a favorite page of Kapiolani's, as a suitable offering. He was im- mediately seized and carried to the sacred inclosure at Hoonaunau, and was seen no more. Kapiolani called for the same old priest to come and sit by her, and say what he now thought of those proceedings. " Oh," said he, " those were dark days, though we priests knew bet- ter all the time. It was power we sought over the minds of the people to influence and control them." Kapio- lani asked him what he did with the boy. " He was strangled on the altar," said he. She hid her face with her hands and wept. "Oh, why did not Christians come sooner and teach us better things?"
Kapiolani is now here on a visit ; she has had a cancer removed from her breast, and is rapidly improving.
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Death of Kapiolani.
When the surgeons entered to perform the operation, she appeared a little fluttered and nervous, requested a few moments to go by herself and pray. She returned calm and dignified, took her seat and submitted to the surgeon's knife with unflinching fortitude and firmness. Her heart is so full of gratitude for the recovery of her health she can not be quiet a moment, and wants to enlist all hearts in a song of praise.
How can I write the sad sequel? Our noble Kapiolani was attacked with erysipelas from a walk in the hot sun, and died very suddenly. Another prop removed from the nation.
XXVI.
The United States Exploring Expedition - Their Operations-A Picnic-Ascent of Mauna Loa- Dr. Fudd's Letter-His Danger and Escape-Our First Thanksgiving-More about the Expedition- A Native Trick-Mr. and Mrs. Farves.
T HE visit of the United States Exploring Expedi- tion in 1840, '41, and '42, with sixty officers and a scientific corps, men of rare talents and polished manners, was no common event in our isolated kingdom. Commander Wilkes set up his observatory on shore and occupied for some months the house and premises of the Premier. The scientific gentlemen pursued their re- searches in their several departments with indomitable energy, surveying our coasts and harbor, measuring the heights of the mountains, penetrating the deep glens of the forests for rare plants, scaling precipices for birds, and diving into ocean's depths for specimens of its va- ried and beautiful tenantry.
During their first visit to Honolulu, the officers made a kind of picnic party on the plain, the first to which all parties in our community, grave and gay, were ever in- vited, and met on common ground. Forty white ladies sat down to a table spread with luxuries from the four quarters of the globe, and arranged with the elegance peculiar to the officers of the navy. It was something new to us, and I fancied that some faces, little accustomed to smile, looked brighter and happier for a long time afterward.
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Ascent of Mauna Loa.
The crowning exploit of the expedition was the ascent of Mauna Loa on Hawait, for making observations on the vibrations of the pendulun .. : Choice' and heavy ap- paratus, house material and ;food" for; the , party were transported sixty miles on men's shoulders, and up a high mountain of rugged lava. Dr. Judd accompanied the expedition as interpreter and overseer of the natives.
Cold, hunger, sore feet, and fatigue were obstacles overcome by the indomitable courage of commander and men. Captain Wilkes pitched his tent on the summit, nearly fourteen thousand feet above the level of the sea, where he remained three weeks, and completed his ob- servations, in spite of storm and tempest, which in two instances prostrated their tents. The following is an extract from Dr. Judd's letters :
" HILO, January, 1841.
" .... I went down into Kilauea on the 16th to collect gases, taking a frying pan, in hopes of dipping up some liquid lava. Kalama went with me to measure the black ledge, and I had five natives to carry apparatus and specimens.
" We descended the black ledge, placed the tube for gases, and went in search of liquid lava. As we passed a small crater, quite cool apparently, I observed a quantity of 'Pele's hair' on the sides, and stopped to gather it. I stepped by degrees from one stone to another, gathering and handing the specimens to Kala- ma, till I had passed quite under the ledge. Suddenly I heard the report of an explosion ; a fiery jet burst up from the center, and a river of fire rolled toward me. The heat was intense. I could not retrace my steps and face the fire, so I turned to the wall, but could not climb over the projecting ledge. I prayed God for deliverance, and shouted to the natives to come and take my hand, which I could extend over the ledge so as to be seen. Kalama heard me and came to the brink, but the intense heat drove him back. 'Do not forsake me and let me perish,' I said. He came again and threw himself on the ground, with face averted to avoid the heat, seized my hand with both his,
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Honolulu.
and I threw myself out. The fire swept under as I went over the ledge, burning my shirt -sleeves and wrist, and blistering Kalama's face,
" The crater filled up in a few minutes, and I took the frying pan, which was lashed to a long pole, and dipped it full, but find- ing it imperfect, emptied it, procured another, and ran away with all speed, as it began to overflow.
" It is forty days since we left the Vincennes. I am sitting by a table in a tent, for the purpose of paying off and settling with the natives employed in carrying burdens up the mountain. The toils of the undertaking have been great, but I hope to reap a rich harvest in renewed health and vigor."
It was the pleasant season of the year. The weather was sufficiently cool to wear woolen clothing. The earth, refreshed with rain, had yielded abundance of fruit and vegetables. The churches had enjoyed a year of jubilee, and the schools flourished under the skillful hands of the graduates from the High School. Free from inward strife and outward oppression, we could worship under our own vine and fig tree, with none to molest or make us afraid.
Friends in the fatherland were enjoying this happiest of family festivals. There were twenty-five adults and thirty-two children at the station in Honolulu, and a proposition to unite in appropriate religious exercises and a Thanksgiving dinner, met with unanimous ap- proval.
Each lady was to furnish such dishes as suited her taste and convenience, while the table arrangements were the portion of one individual. Our young friends, Mr. and Mrs. Jarves, were with us, and were constituted a committee on decorations. Evergreens were brought from the mountains, and converted into wreaths and festoons to adorn the walls. Shells, lava, and minerals were arranged in one corner to form a grotto. If the
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A " Thanksgiving Feast."
tiny windows did not look really gothic, it was not the fault of the committee. The room was pronounced "splendid" by the juveniles of the party; and it is a matter of doubt if a peep at the old masters, in Mr. Jarves's new collection of paintings, would now afford them greater pleasure.
In laying the table, care was taken to procure crockery of one color (no easy task in those days), and the ladies vied with each other in producing the old - fashioned dishes (New England style) of chicken and pumpkin pie. Oranges and bananas took the place of apples. The children dined early by themselves, in an arbor in the garden, and had a merry time.
At three o'clock we had donned our best apparel, and sat down at the long table to enjoy a double feast. The past was reviewed, when we "came over Jordan with a staff, and had now become two bands." We read the 103d Psalm, and sang,-
" When all Thy mercies, O, my God."
The happiness of the elders was too calm, too deep to seek expression in a dance, but the children played "blind-man's buff," and "hunt the slipper," and I am sure we all felt better and more inclined to the routine of sober, every-day toil for this episode in missionary life.
I can not close this chapter without mentioning again the pleasure we have received from the repeated visits of the exploring expedition. Commodore Wilkes and Cap- ' tain Hudson have lived on shore and been our neighbors. The latter attends our prayer meetings, and is an earnest Christian. We are deeply indebted to them both for many acts of kindness and friendship.
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Honolulu.
The other evening I had a look at the moon through the large telescope at the observatory, and it made me dream of the "wise who shall shine as the brightness of the firmament, and they that turn many to righteousness as the stars forever and ever."
I must record a trick played on me by a native during the first residence of the officers on shore. He was em- ployed at the observatory as an errand boy, and came every morning to me for a pitcher of fresh milk, which I was only too happy to furnish, as we had an abundance. As they were about leaving, this boy presented them ·
with a bill for the milk, in my name, at twelve and a half cents per quart ! He received the money and pocketed it, of course. The fraud was accidentally discovered dur- ing their second visit, and afforded me an opportunity to expose the rogue and exculpate myself from such mean- ness. Do you not think our people are making progress in civilized accomplishments? To my fourth son, born at this time, I have given the name of Wilkes, after our friend the Commodore.
Mr. and Mrs. Jarves are pleasant members of our household. Mr. Jarves is about to commence the publi- cation of a newspaper in English, which is much needed in our rapidly increasing foreign community. He is a nephew of my dear aunt B-, of Sackett's Harbor memory. I love him for her sake, and esteem both very highly for their own intrinsic merits. Mrs. Jarves has a piano, and sings and plays well. Our children are fond of music, and you would laugh to see us all hang around her as she plays and sings "Woodman, spare that tree."
The recent death of Mrs. Munn left two little boys to be cared for, the younger of whom we have taken into our family, and with six of our own, have a merry house- hold.
Prosperity of the Mission.
My husband's practice in the foreign community in- creases every day, and if our rules allowed him to receive pay for it, a day's earnings would support his family a week. It does not seem right to draw our support from the treasury of the A. B. C. F. M., when ample oppor- tunity is afforded to take care of ourselves without abridging our usefulness to the nation or Mission. I have written to my friends to send me no more boxes of donations, but to turn their charities into more needy channels.
Some of the native churches are supporting their pas- tors and paying the school teachers. Lands and herds belonging to the Mission will soon be productive, and will make it independent of the Board for support. This is as it should be. "Let us provide things honest in the sight of all men."
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XXVII.
The Belgian Contract-A Lease of all Unoccupied Lands-Object of the Lease-Mr. Brinsmade's De- parture-Temperance at Lahaina-Plans of the Government-Departure of Richards and Haalilio - The English Consul Follows-Deputy Consul not Acknowledged-Commissions-Dr. Fudd's Salary -One more Commission-Letter of Dr. Fudd to the Mission-A Vote of Thanks-A Word of Change -What Mr. Brinsmade did.
1842.
C ASTLE builders are found in every community ; men of high purposes, gigantic plans, and benev- olent intentions. They would elevate the low, employ the idle, educate the mass, and provide a panacea for all social evils.
A grand scheme for advancing the interests of the na- tion, but mainly for protection against the grasp of a foreign power, was secretly drawn up at Lahaina by Messrs. Richards and Brinsmade, and signed in due form by the king and premier. By this document all the unoccupied lands, including six mill sites for sugar plan- tations, were leased to Ladd & Co. for a term of fifty years, and no sale or transfer of lands between any other parties could take place until the completion of this contract. It was supposed that, the lands being thus alienated, the sovereignty of the islands would be of no value in the estimation of those whose schemes of forci- ble annexation were fast approaching completeness ; but the idea, so prominent before the lease was signed, of
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A Temperance Society.
introducing as colonists none but such as by their exam- ple and influence would benefit the people of the islands, gave place, soon after the signature, to the purpose of effecting a sale of the lease wherever. the best market should be found. Mr. Brinsmade took his departure for a market, leaving the king, the premier, and Mr. Richards extremely anxious for the consequences. Mr. Richards soon after followed Mr. Brinsmade.
The following extracts are from a letter of Dr. Judd :
" LAHAINA, April 27, 1842.
. A grand Temperance Society was formed yesterday. The King, Haalilio, John Young, Kekauluohi, Kanaina, Keliia- honui, Paki, and Leleiohoku pledged themselves to total absti- nence from all that can intoxicate.
" The first three had a hard struggle to come to the point, knowing as they do that it involves a great amount of moral courage in their intercourse with foreign officials. Therefore there is hope.
" The church, large as it is, was crowded. The king rising spoke first-said he liked the movement, had resolved to drink no more himself, and, as head of the nation, intended to be leader in this great reform.
" The chiefs are anxious that I should remain till their business affairs are settled. The present plan of husbanding the resources of the kingdom will enable them, if faithfully carried out, to ex- tinguish the national debt in a few years. All the funds are to be committed to a board of officers, consisting of John Young, Haalilio, and myself. Of one thing you may be certain, I shall not consent to any arrangement which does not promise a greater sphere of usefulness."
Soon after the departure of Mr. Brinsmade with his lease of lands, the king was encouraged to send commis- sioners to Washington, London, and Paris, to try, if possible, to secure a better understanding with these governments, and obtain their acknowledgment of his
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independence, as sovereign in his own kingdom, though a very small one.
Rev. William Richards and Haalilio were appointed on this important embassy. They were fitted out in a chartered schooner for Mazatlan. The arrangements were made so quietly, that people supposed they were destined to the island of Hawaii only. They reached the coast in safety and made haste to New York, via Mexico and New Orleans.
No sooner were the facts surmised, than the British Consul followed after the embassy, having previously forwarded letters to the English admiral on the Val- paraiso station, complaining of the acts of the Hawaiian authorities, as oppressive and injurious to British sub- jects, and requesting a ship-of-war to aid him in obtain- ing justice. He left a deputy consul, vastly more subtle and difficult to deal with than himself. This deputy the king refused to receive as consul. Dr. Judd requested Mr. Richards to represent to our Boston patrons, the A. B. C. F. M., the reason why he left the Mission, and, as the king's business required haste, he accepted the fol- lowing appointment from the king without waiting for their approval :
"Be it known to all men, that we appoint G. J. Judd, an American citizen, resident at Honolulu, Oahu, Hawaiian Islands, to be translator and recorder for the Government, agreeably with the law passed the 12th of May, 1842. In testimony whereof, we subscribe our names at Lahaina, this 15th day of May, 1842.
" [SEAL.]
“ (Signed) KAMEHAMEHA III. KEKAULUOHI."
And the following Proclamation was made :-
" Be it known to all whom it may concern, that the Council of the kingdom have come to a definite agreement to set apart all
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Royal Proclamation.
the Government property, from onc end of the Islands to the other, for such business of the Government as shall be agreed upon, and for the payment of debts, in order that the debts of the kingdom may be canceled at once.
"They therefore nominate officers to receive and pay out moneys according to specific directions.
" We therefore hereby constitute you, Dr. G. P. Judd, Timothy Haalilio, and John Ii, a Treasury Board for the kingdom, and charge you to receive the poll tax, poaha money, and all money paid instead of the swine tax; also all money paid for criminal offences, the harbor dues and duties, the land rents, and all tax money, and every kind of property which can be made use of in paying Government debts.
" We also hereby charge all governors and all officers to give you timely notice respecting such money and such property, and then you will at your discretion leave it for awhile, or take it into your hands immediately.
" We furthermore charge you to execute this business promptly and faithfully, and in the month of April, 1843, render in writing a full account of all your doings.
" In testimony whereof we have subscribed our names at La- hania, Maui, this Ioth of May, 1842.
“ (Signed) KAMEHAMEHA III. KEKAULUOHI."
The following letter was sent to Dr .. Judd :
"LAHAINA, May 15, 1842.
" Salutations to you, G. P. Judd. You have been appointed Translator and Recorder for the Government, and for your sup- port and that of your family, we consent that you be paid out of the Government money seven hundred and sixty dollars per annum, to commence from this day.
" Moreover, we instruct you to aid Governor Kekuanaoa in your official capacity, which relates to all business of importance be- tween foreigners.
“ (Signed)
KAMEHAMEHA III. KEKAULUOHI."
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Later in the year Dr. Judd's duties were enlarged- vide the following :
" HONOLULU, July 18, 1842.
"Salutations to you, G. P. Judd. We hereby appoint you to be our officer, whose duty it is to collect correct information and report to Wm. Richards and Sir George Simpson, who are to act according to your words.
" (Signed),
KAMEHAMEHA III. KEKAULUOHI."
On leaving the missionary service Dr. Judd sent the following letter, addressed-
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