USA > Hawaii > Honolulu: sketches of life, social, political, and religious, in the Hawaiian Islands from 1828 to 1861 > Part 3
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There are great deficiencies also, especially in abstract terms. There is no word for "nature," or "virtue," or "enemy," or "gratitude," or "color." "Pono" means "goodness" in general, but nothing in particular. So also "aloha" signifies "love," "affection," "good-will," and may perhaps be twisted into "thank you," or " gratitude." The translators use the original Hebrew words in some cases, where the Hawaiian is deficient, as "berita" for " covenant."
As we studied the language during the voyage, we are able to understand common conversation, and we intend to begin teaching school on our return to Honolulu
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VII.
Visit to Wailuku-Chair Bearers-Our Host-Re
· turn over the Mountains-Booths-Bird Catchers and Feather Tax-July 4th.
July, 1828.
I
HAVE just returned from my first mountain excur- sion, and we have thus spent our first "glorious Fourth" in the Sandwich Isles.
We have just returned from a visit to a district on the windward side of the island. Wailuku (water of devas- tation) is the name of the river, and the valley through which it runs. It is a fertile and populous region.
Auwae, the chief and landlord, sent an invitation to Mr. and Mrs. Richards to visit him, and to bring the strangers with them. We accordingly left Lahaina in a double canoe, furnished and manned by Hoapili, the noble old Governor of Maui, who was one of the coad- jutors of the conqueror, Kamehameha I. We passed around the base of the mountain which bounds Lahaina on one side, running down to the sea, and entered a bay, which, with a narrow, low isthmus, divides East from West Maui, both divisions of the island shooting up into mountains. The mountain on the east division is Haleakala (house of the sun), and is the largest crater in the world, but is not in action. Its sides, consisting of thousands of acres of fertile land, slope to the sea, and are well adapted to tillage.
We landed at the head of the bay, where chairs sus- pended at the middle of long poles had been provided,
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Chair Bearers-Our Host.
and stout men for bearers, to carry the ladies the re- maining ten miles. I hesitated to lay such a burden upon men's shoulders and walked along, when the bear- ers began to laugh and took up one, the largest of their number, into the chair and ran on with him. When they had set him down, they said: "There, you see our strength, you will be no weight at all." I accordingly mounted the chair, the men elevated their horizontal poles to their shoulders, and I, having soon got the bet- ter of my scruples, had a charming ride. Mrs. R- - was used to it, and reached the village first.
We were most hospitably welcomed by the host and hostess. The house was large, well furnished with mats and kapa. Screens of furniture calico divided off the bed-rooms. Everything was extremely neat, but the beds-merely mats spread over planks of the hardest wood, rough hewn-were most uncomfortable. Our wants in every other respect were anticipated with such real politeness and refinement as surprised me, in a peo- ple who have had no intercourse with the civilization of white people.
Auwae was in the train of the great conqueror, one of his savants, and keeps in memory genealogies, traditions, and ancient lore. He is an astronomer and botanist. He placed two long rows of stones to show how they classified plants in sexes, and gave us the native names for each. He seems to be a genuine encyclopedia of Hawaiian science.
Mr. Richards preached several times during our visit of two days, to large and attentive congregations, be- sides marrying several couples.
The evening before we left, our host proposed to take us home over the mountains, instead of the canoe route, · to which we assented, as offering a little adventure. A
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Honolulu.
company of twenty-five athletic men, trained to bird- catching on the beetling crags of these mountains, were called out. Their toe and finger nails, never cut, grow like claws. Their sole business is to catch the little black birds called the oo, each producing a few yellow feathers under the wings. When these are plucked, the bird is set at liberty, to be caught and plundered again at some future time. Five feathers constitute a tax, and are equivalent to one dollar in money. These feathers are wrought into cloaks, capes, wreaths, and " kahilis," to bedeck royalty. The feathers, time, and labor consumed in making a cloak, now in possession of the young king, have been estimated as amounting to hundreds of thou- sands of dollars.
But to return to our excursion. Our native host and hostess were to go with us to the summit, where booths would be prepared for us in which to spend a night. We breakfasted, had family worship, and started early, and followed up the river as it winds along the mountain gorge. The way grew rugged and more difficult as we ascended, now leading over almost inaccessible defiles, and up almost insurmountable heights; and now along the ridge of precipices scarcely wide enough for foot- hold, but we were carefully guarded and borne along by .our bold and unflinching guides. Up, up, on, on, we flew rather than walked, until our heads became giddy and our feet weary, when, discovering our tottering steps, they would snatch us up and carry us along as though we were children.
We were glad to emerge from this wild and rugged scenery to a broad plateau-cool, secluded, and beauti- ful. Our booths had been covered with the broad, smooth " ki" leaves, so closely woven together as to ex- clude rain and wind. Piles of dry fern were placed for .
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Over the Mountains.
beds, over which were spread mats and " kapa," making a couch fit for a king.
We lay down weary enough, and slept until daybreak, when we were awakened by the birds all around us, chanting a full chorus, quite unconscious of the pres- ence of their persecutors. The sun came up from his ocean bed in full glory; the sea was visible on both sides ; a splendid cluster of giant forest trees formed the background and concealed from view the frightful preci- pice we were to descend. Auwae said this was an old battle-ground, and a scene of terrible slaughter only a few years ago.
We kindled a gipsy fire, made tea, ate our breakfast, sung a hymn, had prayers, and then parted with our dear friends, who returned to Wailuku, after bidding the guides see us safely down the mountains to our home in Lahaina. The descent was almost perpendicular, and we swung down from branch to branch among the trees, our only security being the faithful bird-catchers, who placed our feet for us and guarded each step. We ar- rived home at nightfall, just in time for a refreshing cup of tea, prepared by our beloved and thoughtful sister, Miss Ogden.
Thus we spent the Fourth of July, 1828, in the king- dom of the Kamehamehas.
VIII.
The House-Commencing School-The Weather-Short Allowance-Foraging-Relief.
HONOLULU, August, 1828.
H OUSEKEEPING at last in two little rooms and a chamber, under the same roof with the Bing- hams! The clapboards are bare and admit quantities of dust which the trade-winds bring in such fearful clouds as to suggest the fate of Pompeii. We have three chairs, a table, a bedstead, and a nice little secretary. Dr. Judd has converted the round-topped wooden trunk that Uncle E- made for me into a safe for our food, by placing it on stilts set in pans of tar water, which keeps out roaches and ants. Mrs. Bing- ham kindly allows me to have one of her trained serv- ants, who does the washing and assists in the kitchen.
We have commenced a school for native women, which already numbers forty-five, including Kaahumanu, Kinau, Namehana, and several of their attendants. They are docile and very anxious to learn. I devote two hours a day teaching them to write on paper; Mrs. B- spends two hours more in giving them lessons on the slate, and teaching them how to divide words and sentences. Their preference is to join words together in continuous lines across the page, without stops or marks. Miss Ward superintends the sewing department. Our school-house has no floor nor desks, the only substitute for the latter being a long board, supported by cross-
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Breakfast Under Difficulties.
trees, for the writers. A flag is raised to signal the hour for school; it came from a wrecked ship, the Superb, and bears the name in white letters on a red ground. " Su- perb school mistresses," Mr. Bingham calls us.
I can not begin to say how happy I am to be here, and how I love to work for this interesting people. I little thought when teaching children in the State of New York what that discipline was preparing me for. I was but sixteen when I made my début as school- teacher. I wonder if the little brown school-house still stands at the place where three ways meet?
Opportunities for sending letters to the United States occur only in the Fall season, when whale-ships are re- turning home around Cape Horn. We have had a very hot summer, no rain, the earth parched, and clouds of dust blowing day after day. I have emptied quarts of it from my bed cover at night, and it pours in so thickly that in a few minutes it is impossible to distinguish the color of the different articles of furniture.
Our yearly supply of sugar, flour, and other stores, sent from Boston in a whale-ship, was carried by mistake to the Japan whaling grounds, consequently we have been on short allowance. The drought almost produced a famine in the vegetable kingdom. Our good queen- mother has been often absent, and we have missed her presents of kalo, fish, and other good things. The poor cattle have almost starved, and of course our supply of milk has failed.
One morning this week was hot and oppressive; such as occur in your " dog days." A missionary sister was with me, who had been watching all night with her sick babe, and her husband absent on an exploring tour, while mine was visiting the sick. We sat down to our little breakfast-table spread with care, and offered to our crav-
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Honolulu.
ing appetites sweet potatoes and salt beef, the latter spoiled by its long voyage around Cape Horn, and a still longer stay in the mission depository. We sent it from the table, and tried to swallow some potatoes, but they were poor, watery things, more like squash than pota- toes. The effort was useless. What if I did think of the well-stored pantries and the nice little delicacies my friends in America would offer me if they could ?- was it wicked ? Were we like the naughty Israelites, longing for the flesh-pots of Egypt? We wiped away our tears as quickly as we could. I said to my friend : "This will never do; you must have a breakfast. I have four shil- lings which were in my purse when I left Boston. I will take them and send down to the beef market. I know it is against the rule, and would be thought a bad precedent ; we will say nothing about it. Meanwhile, let us untie the little parcel of flour, trusting in Provi- dence to provide more." The servant returned with about a pound and a half of fresh beef for fifty cents ! We broiled it, and with our hot cake made a delicious meal, then resumed our duties with cheerfulness and gratitude.
In the afternoon of the same day our friend Captain Bunker, of the Zone, arrived, and gave us a barrel of flour and several other articles. I do not complain. Our friends in Boston are not to blame that we are short of supplies, as they have no regular means of conveyance ; and the whalers, who kindly offer to bring our stores without remuneration, can not be expected to go out of their way to land them.
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IX.
NEWS FROM HOME.
Arrival of the " Honqua"-Letters and Supplies- Reflections-Letter to Mrs. C .- Mother, etc .- Native Mothers and Children-Infanticide-One Rescued.
T HE Honqua has arrived with letters, papers, and boxes. We are in a fever of excitement. How kind our friends are; how pleasant to have so many long letters containing assurances of love unabated ; how thoughtful of our comfort to send so many nice things, just what we need! We opened the flour, the crackers, dried fruit, cheese, lard, all put up by dear father and mother Judd; and here are chairs, a whole dozen, a new bureau and book-case, and a table that will stand alone- all provided by our kind relatives and friends in Oneida County. What shall we do with so much furniture? I will make a tea-party for Mr. and Mrs. Bingham the first thing. Upai will help me to make biscuit and doughnuts and stem some dried fruit, then we will sit down together at our new table, read our letters, and talk over all the news from our dear native land. After tea we will open our boxes, and examine the treasures sent us from our friends at home. No lady shopping on Broadway with a full purse, can feel half the delight we experience in opening a box from home.
"Touched by the magic hand of those we love, A trifle does of consequence appear ; A blade of grass, a pin, a glove, A scrap of paper, does become most dear." 2* (33)
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Honolulu.
It is but natural that with the first impulses of ma- ternal love we should turn our thoughts more directly to native mothers and children. A few days ago we called our female church-members together, and requested those who had children to bring them. A large number assembled, our good queen-mother heading the list, although she has no children of her own. She brought little Ruth, an adopted daughter. Kinau presented her first-born, Prince David Kamehameha, a boy fine enough for any mother not of the seed royal to glory in. Close beside her sits the wife of our deacon, Ehu, with three young children. Several mothers presented their off- spring, with the pride of old Roman matrons. · We counted the number of those who had living children, and then requested those who had none to rise. The scene that followed I can never forget. Why are you childless? we inquired. Very few had lost children by a natural death. One woman replied in tears, holding out her hands: "These must answer the question. I have been the mother of eight children, but with these hand.s I buried them alive, one after another, that I might fol- low my pleasures, and avoid growing old. Oh, if I had but one of them back again to comfort me now! Ii tears and penitence could restore the dead!" She was followed by others, making the same sad confessions of burying alive, of strangling, of smothering, until sobe and tears filled the house.
" Oh," said one, "you have little idea of our heartless depravity, before we had the Word of God. We thought only of preserving our youth and beauty, following the train of our king and chiefs, singing, dancing, and being merry. When old, we expected to be cast aside, and being neglected, to starve and die, and we only cared for the present pleasures. Such was our darkness."
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Infanticide.
The scene was painful. We tried to say a few words of consolation and advice, and to commend them to God in prayer. We made arrangements to meet them regu- larly once a month for instruction in maternal and do- mestic duties, and returned to our own happy Christian homes, feeling that we never before realized how much we owe to the Gospel.
After my return I related to Pali, my native woman, some of the fearful disclosures made at the meeting. " My mother had ten children," said she; "my brother, now with you, and myself, are all that escaped death at her hands. This brother was buried too, but I loved him very much, and determined to save him, if I could. I watched my mother, and saw where she buried him. As soon as she went away, I ran and dug him up. He was not dead. I ran away many miles with him, and kept him hid with some friends a long time. My mother heard of us, and tried to get us back, but I kept going from one place to another, and after a while she died. I have always taken care of him until now."
X.
Arrival of the " Vincennes"-C. S. Stewart-The " Dolphin"-Laws-King's Reception of Captain Finch -Presents-Behind the Curtain-A Tea Party.
I T is impossible to describe how happy we were made by a visit of the U. S. sloop-of-war Vincennes, Cap- tain Finch. It brought to us again the Rev. C. S. Stewart, chaplain, who was formerly connected with this Mission, as will be remembered. He was one of the very last to whom I gave the parting hand, when we sailed out of Boston harbor, and I need not say that he received a warm welcome from us.
The visit of the Dolphin, Captain Percival, which did not bear the olive branch, was still fresh in the minds of the native community. The unprovoked attack upon the houses and persons of the defenceless missionaries, was approved by some of the foreigners already gathered in our little metropolis, with some honorable exceptions, but, I am sorry to say, the foreign officials were not of this excepted number. They treat the magnates of the land with rudeness and indignity. They get up a tempest of words upon the slightest pretext, and threaten our timid and peace-loving rulers with vengeance and exter- mination.
As yet, you must know, our people have no printed code of laws, other than the Decalogue, which Kaahu- manu thinks can not be improved. Public ordinances are made known by a town crier, who patrols the high-
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Reception of Captain Finch.
ways at the quiet hour of twilight, and pours forth royal edicts with stentorian voice.
The visit of Captain Finch was opportune. He brought friendly communications from his Government, which is very encouraging to the chiefs, who are anxious to do their duty, though ignorant of foreign usages.
The king gave a reception at his large grass palace, to which all the foreigners and missionaries were invited, to meet Captain Finch and his officers. The band of music from the ship was in attendance, and as the king, the chiefs, the foreign officials, and the officers, were in full uniform, there being plenty of room in the immense building, it was a fine and delightful affair. A pair of large globes, a number of books, maps, and engravings, were presented to the king, Kaahumanu, and other chiefs. As Kuakini, the Governor of Hawaii, is the only one of the chiefs who reads English, he received a very handsome quarto Bible. The message from the Presi- dent of the United States was cordially received and re- sponded to, with the grateful thanks of the chiefs. The interview passed off in the most agreeable manner, and our rulers, both men and women, appeared to the best possible advantage., We were glad when it was over, as we are always a little anxious lest some blunder should be committed.
During the stay of the ship Mrs. Bingham made a tea- party for the officers and chiefs, and had quite a house full. The time passed insensibly until nine o'clock, when the feast of reason was suddenly interrupted by a sound something between a whistle and the groan of a black- smith's bellows. It was an announcement that our queen, Kaahumanu, was tired and must go home. She arose (I never saw her look so tall), gathered up the am- ple folds of her black silk dress, even to the very waist,
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Honolulu.
holding a portion on each arm, and exposing an under- garment of beautiful pink satin. Thus she stood in her stateliness, while we all gathered around to shake hands and bid her good-night. We laughed a little, at her ex- pense, after she had gone, but loved her none the less for all that.
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XI.
The New Church-Preparations for the Dedication -A Dilemma.
HONOLULU, November, 1829.
A FTER many months of hard labor our new thatched church is completed. Several hundred men at a time have been engaged in putting on the thatch under the superintendence of Governor Boki, who has set overseers, sword in hand, at the different portions of the work. The men chatter while at work like so many meadow larks, and their voices are suffi- ciently confused to remind one of what the scene might have been at Babel's tower. The church has a neat pul- pit, of native mahogany (koa), a glazed window behind, draped with crimson damask, furnished by Kaahumanu. Upholstering is a new business. We had some idea of festoons, but knew not how to arrange them, so as to produce the proper effect, for we were without patterns and had no one to teach us. The young king was anxious to have it as grand as possible, as it was his chapel. We did our best, and what more is required of mortals ?
The king, his royal sister, and a large number of the chiefs from the other islands were present at the dedica- tion. Kaahumanu made a very interesting address to the people, and, to the surprise of all present, the king followed with a speech and a prayer. He not only ded- icated the house to the worship of the only living and
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Honolulu.
true God, but solemnly, then and there, consecrated his kingdom to the Lord Jesus Christ. The princess and her maids of honor led the choir, and the chant, " O come let us sing unto the Lord," which was sung in excellent taste. Governor Boki made a great display of soldiers dressed in new suits, purchased for the occasion, aug- menting the public debt some thousands of dollars. He appeared restless and ill at ease.
I record another anecdote of Kaahumanu ; the inci- dent occurred a few weeks before the dedication. Mrs. Bingham, Miss Ward, and myself were spending the day with her at her rustic country-seat in Manoa valley. As we were seated at our sewing, Kaahumanu very kindly inquired what we thought of wearing at the dedication of the new church. Without waiting for an answer, she added : "It is my wish that we dress alike ; I have made a selection that pleases me, and it only waits your ap- proval." She ordered the woman in waiting to bring in the material ; it was heavy satin, striped pink, white, and blue.
She fixed her scrutinizing eyes upon us as we exam- ined and commented upon it in our own language. As we hesitated in the approval, " What fault has it?" she hastily inquired. I replied, “ No fault ; it is very beau- tiful for you who are a queen, but we are missionaries, supported by the churches and the earnings of the poor, and such expensive material is not suitable for us." " 1 give it to you," she replied, "not the church, nor the poor." "Foreigners will be present," we said, "who will perhaps make ill-natured remarks." "Foreigners !" said she, "do you mean those in town who tear off calico? (meaning the salesmen in the shops). What do you care for their opinions? It does not concern them; you should not heed what they say." We declined still fur.
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A Dress Dilemma.
ther the acceptance, as we should not ourselves feel comfortable in such unaccustomed attire. She looked disappointed and displeased, and ordered the woman to put it out of sight, adding, " If it is not proper for good people to wear good things, I do not know what they are made for." We were sorry to oppose her wishes, and she was taciturn all the afternoon. As we were about to take leave at evening, she resumed her cheerful manner, and asked what we would like to wear on the forthcom- ing occasion. We thanked her, and said we would like to make something very handsome for her, but we should prefer black silk to anything else for ourselves. She made no reply, but bade us an affectionate good-night. The next morning we received two rolls of black silk, with an order to make her dress exactly like ours.
XII.
Visit to Hawaii -- Health Station-Captains Rice and Smith-Captain Cook's Heart-His Death -Birth-place of Obookaiah-The Heiau-Kapio- lani-Kawaihae-John Young-Waimea-Waipio.
KAAWALOA, HAWAII.
A S the health of some of the pioneer missionaries appears to be sinking from the effects of this warm climate, the brethren in council decided to send a committee to explore the bracing regions on the slopes of these snow-clad mountains, and seek for a health station. Dr. Judd was one of that committee, so I was obliged to leave my pleasant school and home, and come to this place, the home of Mr. and Mrs. Ruggles, who are too poorly to live alone. I remain with Mrs. Ruggles and the children, while Mr. R. and Dr. Judd make their explorations, which will occupy some weeks.
We took passage from Honolulu with Captain Rice, in the whaleship Superior, of New London, and were eleven days making the passage. Captain James Smith, of the Phoenix, was in company. We encountered a severe storm, and took three whales, one of which, cap- tured by Captain Smith, and nearly as long as his ship, was unfortunately lost during the gale.
Kealakekua is an historical spot. I write this in sight of the very rock where the celebrated Captain Cook was killed, and I have seen the man who ate his heart. He stole it from a tree, supposing it to be a swine's heart
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An Old Temple-John Young.
hung there to dry, and was horrified when he discovered the truth. The Sandwich Islanders never were cannibals. This made him famous, and he is always spoken of as the man who ate Lono's heart. Here I have made the acquaintance of the old queen, Kekupuohi, wife of Kalaniopuu. She was close to Captain Cook when he fell, following her royal husband, whom the English were enticing on board the ship, to be detained as a hostage until a stolen boat should be restored. She says the natives had supposed that Captain Cook was their old god Lono, returned to visit them. They paid him divine honors, which he must well have understood. Men were sent from the ship, who cut down the fences around their temple. Women visited the ship in great numbers, and husbands grew jealous, and began to distrust these new divinities. A young chief was killed by a shot from one of the ships, while passing in his canoe. There was a great uproar among the people, and when they saw their king about stepping into the boat with Captain Cook, an old warrior said, " I do not believe he is a god. I will prick him with my spear, and if he cries out I shall know he is not." He struck him in the back, Cook uttered a cry, the chief gave another thrust, and the great navi- gator proved to be mortal. These facts were gathered from an eye-witness, who expressed the deepest regret at the sad tragedy.
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