USA > Illinois > Edwards County > History of the English settlement in Edwards County, Illinois : founded in 1817 and 1818, by Morris Birkbeck and George Flower > Part 13
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their feelings could be displayed in all their force, without restraint, in forms far less objectionable than in grocery- brawls or street-fights. Well organized and under good discipline, the Methodist church wisely adapts itself to all classes; and in this it is not only exceeded by the Roman- Catholic church, and not by that in its influence over the backwoodsmen of the North-Western States. Fortunate in appointing preachers suited to the audience, in the camp-meeting it avails itself of the influences of nature to aid the words of the preacher. United the effect is powerful upon all; and to a class in a certain stage of civilization quite irresistible. There is no temple con- structed by art like the great temple of nature, in beauty, grandeur, and space. It is in the silence of the grove, canopied by the blue heavens or the starry dome, that the feeble voice of man most easily influences the feelings of his fellows. Nature in her highest moods exerts a spirit- ualizing power by the silent appeals of her many beauties; the temper and feelings become calm and kindly.
Surrendered by these happy influences, the preacher can more easily raise the feelings to the highest pitch of fervor, or melt the spirit to a more humble resignation. A preacher of moderate abilities, with a good voice in the open air, with a health-inspiring breeze, and the influences of nature, can act more decidedly than eloquence, reason, and logic all combined, on the feelings of his hearers, squeezed between four walls, inhaling the pestilential at- mosphere of their own breath.
On a warm summer afternoon, as I was riding from Mt. Carmel, turning a point of wood, came suddenly on a
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METHODIST CAMP-MEETING.
scene that arrested my attention; and, as a stream of people were going in one direction, I joined them and went on. We were soon in front of the Methodist camp. It was in form of a hollow square, on the two sides opposite and on a portion of the third, were the log-huts, with roof sloping outward, occupied by families from a distance, furnished with bedding and a few simple cook- ing-utensils; these were all, or nearly all, occupied. In the centre of the third side was an elevated platform for the preacher, in the shade of three tall, handsome oak- trees, which stood immediately at its back, in front and below was what was called "the anxious-pew", a space about fifteen feet square, enclosed by a light post-and-rail fence. The body of the square was covered with ranges of light and even-sized logs, smoothed on one side by the axe, affording sitting room for about three hundred people. There was an interlude in the service, and the seats were nearly vacant; people stood about in little groups, con- versing, or welcoming some newly-arrived acquaintance. Inside the camp presented to me a singular scene. In one apartment was a family cooking, and the meal all going on, in company with acquaintances from without. In the next, a little prayer-meeting; and all were kneeling at their devotions. In the front of the next division, a lively party of young and old chatting together in high glee. In the next, stood a solitary man erect and with rigid mien, and eyes intently fixed on an open bible held in both his hands. Outside, strangers were continu- ally arriving, some in buggies and some on horseback, fastening their animals to the branches of the trees, that.
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ENGLISH SETTLEMENT IN EDWARDS COUNTY.
in a semi-circle stood round the camp. I withdrew to a little distance to take a general view. Nothing could be prettier. The camp itself, standing as it did in the little prairie, surrounded by beautiful timber, was an interesting object. The various parties of youths and gay maidens, with their many-colored scarfs and ribbons, streaming in the wind, gave to the whole an air of cheerfulness not to be exceeded. At a given signal, all assembled inside the camp and took their seats. The preacher ascended the stand, and began his discourse in a voice scarcely audible. As he raised it to a higher pitch, a sort of groan-like response could be heard from a few in the audience, and now and then an emphatic "amen"! As the preacher raised his voice from bass to tenor, so the responses, in groans, amens, and shouts of glory increased in number and intensity. The scenes in the anxious - pew were getting exciting, and people crowded around. My curi- osity induced me to press forward to a closer view. I confess I was startled; but a moment's reflection checked any censure that is apt to arise in the breast of every man who sees doings different from his own. All real feeling is spontaneous; the mode of its display is convential, a mere matter of taste. There were about fifteen persons then under the highest excitement, chiefly females. One man, a Yankee, a near neighbor of mine, was there rolling and groaning as if in extreme pain, and uttering loud cries for pardon. Among the many shouters and exclaimers, one respectable, middle-aged female, of pleasing personal appearance attracted my attention among the many extra- ordinary attitudes, erratic motions, and various voices and
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SCENE AT A CAMP-MEETING.
sounds, in that extraordinary place. With eyes raised upward, arms raised straight about her head, incessantly clapping her hands and shouting glory, leaping continu- ally upward, as high as her strength would carry her, with all her fine black hair streaming down her back, and per- spiration trickling down her face, she presented rather a fine picture of the frenzy. Two young women, recently from Scotland, were there, affected quite as strongly, but rather differently. Short hysterical laughter, sobs, sighs, and weeping exhibited the depth and sincerity of their feel- ings. The preacher lowered his voice; exclamations became fainter; he ceased; and silence was restored. It reminded me of those extraordinary scenes recorded in history, of children, women, and men, who went about for weeks and months, singing and shouting, the epidemic spreading wherever they went. But the scene in the "anxious-pew" was more pandemonian than paradisical. Fear and flattery, mingled with fevered hope, formed the basis of their violent ejaculations and their many mourn- ful sounds; all seemed to be fearing that the God they worshiped would bestow an eternity of torment for an error or a crime. I was impressed, and somewhat de- pressed, by what I had seen; for I felt no sympathy and could yield but partial approval. The social meeting of distant friends and acquaintance was the best feature of it all. I could not deny, that the whole affair was well suited to the times and to the people.
From early documents, I see Mr. Birkbeck acted as chairman at two meetings, to promote a subscription for a church, and several notices occur of the Episcopal
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178 ENGLISH SETTLEMENT IN EDWARDS COUNTY.
service being read by Mr. Woods. It seems, the religious element was at work as soon as the Settlement existed. As the infidelity of Mr. Birkbeck was urged by the enemies of the Settlement, as a reason for its avoidance, let us hear what he himself says, on that head. In a printed pamphlet, entitled "Extracts from a Supple- mentary Letter from Illinois, dated January Ist, 1819, addressed to British Emigrants, arriving in Eastern ports, reply to William Cobbett, Esq., July 31st, 1819," I find the following. "In the solicitude for the well-being of our Colony, I have deprecated the formalities practised in lieu of religion. 1 have, therefore, been deemed a foe to re- ligion ; that bond which connects the soul of man with the supreme intelligence in whom we live and move and have our being. It is the love of God increasing our good-will to each other. It is a principle of action aiding the moral sense; a divine sentiment, impelling us to pursuits reason approves, and restraining us from evil. If I have written in disparagement of this principle, I plead guilty." These were his sentiments as published by himself, and should be accepted as standing on better authority than the imputations.cast upon him by his theological foes and the enemies of the Settlement. Nothing more need be said on this subject. These were the aspects of religion in and about our Settlement, during the first three or four years of its existence.
It should be remembered, that neither Mr. Birkbeck nor myself came here as preachers or teachers of religion. We had found a country especially adapted to the Euro- pean emigrant, relieving him and his immediate successors
179
A BEAUTIFUL PICTURE.
from the heart-breaking toil of felling the forest before he could put in the plow. And what a country? For those who will come after us, and can never see it in its original beauty, I will give a brief record of its features as we first saw them.
In the month of April, the surface of the prairie be- comes covered mith a delicious green. It resembles, when viewed at a little distance, a smooth carpet or well- shorn lawn. About the first of May the surrounding woods appear clothed in a verdure of a darker hue. As the season advances, the verdure increases in intensity, intermingled with flowers of brilliant hues, from the smallest to the largest. Herds of cattle and horses are seen quietly grazing, or reposing in the shade of the clumps of noble oak-trees that stand dotted about the prairie, enjoying the cool breeze. It is a fairy-like scene on which the eye delights to dwell, a perfect picture of rural felicity and peace. As summer advances, both herbage and foliage attain to greater amplitude, and richness of color. The great heat of the summer's sun, from which all animals seek a shelter, seems to make perfect every variety of vegetable life. Autumn finds the tall grass of the prairie in full size, but of a less brilliant green. Later in autumn, the trees, as if to defy the god of day, exchange their sober livery of green for robes of greater brilliancy and more gorgeous beauty. Standing side by side are trees of various but perfect colors. The pale-yellow contrasts with the violet or the copper-color. Whole clumps, of bright scarlet or rich crimson, inter- mingle often on the same tree with bunches of yellow or
180 ENGLISH SETTLEMENT IN EDWARDS COUNTY.
carnation. In spring and autumn, the temperature for many days together is delicious-about 75ยบ Fahrenheit. Sitting at ease, enjoying the beauties of the scene, fanned by the soft zephyrs that come rolling up from the south, laden with the perfume of sweet flowers; the lungs in- haling the delicious balm, redolent of health; every sense is gratified and simple existence is a joy. As winter approaches, the grass becomes dry and brown. A brand from some camp-fire ignites it. Preceded by dense vol- umes of smoke, the flames spread wider and wider. Fanned by an ever- increasing wind from the vacuum made by its own heat, the progress of the fire becomes terrific. Animals all fly before it. Those that are para- lized perish in the flames. The trees are burnt. Their leaves, small branches, and old trunks are consumed. For want of material the fire goes out; but the smothering smoke for a time rolls on, then lifts, displaying a scene of desolation almost dreadful to behold. The landscape, a few minutes before arrayed in the brilliancy of autumn coloring, is now a monotonous, dreary, black waste. And so it remains until winter advances and the cold sets in. A heavy fall of snow transforms the whole scene from black to white. The dazzling whiteness is painful to the eyes. In its extent, its uniform surface of purest white, its dazzling glare, there is a grandeur in its very dreari- ness. With the temperature ten or twenty degrees below zero, which sometimes is the case, the traveler may obtain experiences of the steppes of Tartary or the plains of Siberia on the prairies of Illinois. After a short period of rain, mud, and swollen streams, the annual changes on
181
THE MISSION OF THE SETTLEMENTS.
the face of nature again appear to go their perpetual round. This was the country we had found, made known, and recommended to others. The almost uniform success of those who came has justified our choice and vindicated our judgment. Our after mission was to point out its situation and the way to it; to defend it from the mis- representations and barefaced lies, unscrupulously uttered by its enemies; to spread before the European public from time to time our progress and success; to aid many who had expended all their means; to assist, both by pecuniary means and long periods of time and labor, any great object of public advantage, whether of roads, schools, buildings, or laws. And this we did from the first to the last. In the infancy of the Settlement, Mr. Birkbeck's pen was active to rebut the calumnies so assiduously propagated, and in defence of freedom from the evils of slavery. In the middle of our course my "Errors of Emigrants", two thousand copies of which were sold by the publisher in London in two weeks, gave a fresh im- pulse to emigration. Still later, by special request, I published a letter in the Lowell Courier, descriptive of the prairies, and giving other general information. This was translated by a Mr. Anderson, a native of Norway, into the Norse language, and circulated widely in Norway and Sweden, giving some impulse to the emigration of Swedes and Norwegians, who formed settlements in the northern part of our State. In after years, I received letters from Norwegians, inquiring after their countrymen settled in Illinois. They, not realizing the extent of our Western States, little thought that their friends whom they sup-
IS2 ENGLISH SETTLEMENT IN EDWARDS COUNTY.
posed to be my neighbors, were at least four hundred miles from where I lived. This we did gratuitously; and if any charges were incurred, at our own cost. Thus were we engaged. Religion we left to the people. If we differed from others in their speculation of things, unseen and unknown, we tolerated all opinions, and as far as was proper, promoted the wishes of our neighbors. Doubtless we should have given a site for any building of a public purpose. If for religious puposes, we should never have put any hinderance to the building of a temple, a syna- gogue, a mosque, a pagoda, a church, or Friend's meet- ing-house; and this we should do without feeling ourselves committed to a single dogma contained in any one of their creeds.
CHAPTER IX.
Consultations as to how to Advance the Interests of the Settlement -The Backwoodsmen begin to Leave the Country-The Michaels Brothers-Moses Michaels Elected to the Legislature, and a " Weak Brother "-Descriptions of Moving Emigrants-Two Early Settlers at Albion-One of them become Governor-Eng- lish and Americans have Different Ways of Doing Things- Emigrants from Europe bound for Albion, Land at nearly every Port from St. Lawrence to the Gulf of Mexico-A Welshman Rides on Horseback from Charleston, S. C., to Albion -British Sketches Recognized by Britains at Albion-Cobbett's Abusive Letters about the English Colony-Cobbett's Character-Replies by Richard Flower and Morris Birkbeck-Dr. Johnson's Charges -Mr. Fearon's Book of Travels-Adverse Influences-The Evil Genius of Slavery.
THE members of our family often met at my house, but more frequently at my father's, to canvass some measure of interest to the town or settlement. Myself, my father, my brothers-in-law, Mr. Ronalds, and Mr. Pickering, and some- times an additional friend or two, composed the party. Measures for the advancement of the town or country were then discussed-the erection of some public building, school, library, a new road, a petition to the Legislature- and action in each case was often decided upon. If opin- ions were divided, we would take an appeal to the public sentiment, and a town-meeting was called. These meet- ings and discussions were often discordant and sometimes stormy. However they kept things alive.
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ENGLISH SETTLEMENT IN EDWARDS COUNTY.
In 1819, the hunter-class of backwoodsmen began to move off, to keep their true position between the receding Indian and the advancing white man. With all their faults, they were an interesting class. We were getting too populous and civilized for them.
Three brothers, Moses, John, and George Michaels, from one of the Eastern States-Connecticut, I think-were among our earliest settlers on the prairie on which Scav- ington and Brissenden had settled, three miles east of Albion. With them came two families of Browns, from the same section. Moses Michaels,* for several years a magistrate, was our first representative in the Legislature, that met first at Kaskaskia, and afterward at Vandalia. A most striking example of a man being placed in the front rank, without possessing a single qualification to lead or to command. Without one positive, his character was made up of all negative qualities. It may be observed in higher offices than those filled by our humble representative, men are often chosen for their moderate, rather than their supe- rior, ability.
Other settlers, from the class of poor whites from slave- states, came in and settled among us; and, now and then, a more substantial farmer from New York and Pennsyl- vania. It was curious to see the different appointments of these various American settlers. The eye could detect from whence they came as far as it could discern them.
* Michaels was not a member of the legislature when it sat at Kaskaskia, but only once a member of the House, after the seat of Government had been removed to Vandalia, and that was in 1820-22. According to Mr. Flower's account of him, that was quite enough.
185
THE POOR WHITE SETTLERS.
When a large wagon came in sight, strong and complete, generally painted blue, drawn by four strong horses in high condition, its feed-trough behind, tar-buckets and water swinging beneath, laden with a full supply of bed- ding and household gear on which sat sturdy boys and buxom girls, all dressed in stout homespun clothes, a stal- wart man in his deep-seated saddle driving; that wagon came from the Keystone State.
Another traveling establishment, of a far different char- acter, was more frequently to be seen coming along-a little rickety wagon, sometimes a cart or light carryall, pulled by a horse as lean as a greyhound, scarcely able to drag the vehicle, which contains only a skillet, a small bag of meal, and a little piece of bacon; a gaunt, emaciated man and a large family, chiefly daughters, walking bare- foot, and without a change of raiment. "Where from, good folks?" The answer is sure: from Alabama or Caroline; a more perfect picture of destitution can not be seen. Give them time, and with good soil, with free- dom to work it, they will soon get on, if sober, which many of them are. Their only tools are an axe and a hoe, with, occasionally, a one-horse plow. They have no team to break up the prairie, and, necessarily, settle in the woods, girdle a.few trees, and make a few rails, and get in a corn-patch. After all, these are the best settlers we get from the South. Their little corn-patch increases to a field; their first shanty to a small log-house, which, in turn, gives place to a double cabin, in which a loom and spin- ning-wheel are installed. A well with, a sweep, a grape- vine for a rope. A few fruit trees, and their improvement
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186 ENGLISH SETTLEMENT IN EDWARDS COUNTY.
is complete. Moderate in their aspirations, they soon arrive at the summit of their wishes. The only difference between. the roving hunters and these stationary settlers, appears to be in the greater sobriety of the stationary class.
Quite a respectable man, a neighbor, told me that all he possessed was put into a bee-gum, and carried by himself and wife, when they came into the State on foot. We have some from the South with greater pretensions. But they neither plow, nor sow, nor build houses, nor make gar- ments. The best of them get into the professions-a doctor or a lawyer- but their great ambition is to get to the Legislature, and then to Congress.
Another class, from another quarter, and with other abilities, also come to us. Young men fresh from college, from the New-England States. I have two examples now in my eye. These two young men came to Albion, their wits their only fortune. I mean their legitimate wits; that is, the power of turning their acquirements to the best account, losing no opportunity. They too decline manual labor. One went to Carmi. He was a magistrate while there; afterward cashier of a branch of the State Bank, at Mt. Carmel; and now conducts a large moneyed institu- tion at Evansville. The other, at first, took small children to teach, at two dollars a-quarter, and taught them their a, b, c. Whenever he could get a little writing in the clerk's office, he employed himself there. He was soon seen on a horse, riding the circuit with the lawyers, and becoming one himself. Tacking his political sails to suit the breeze, he got elected to the Legislature, and afterward
EAST'N AMERICAN-SOUTIIERNER-ENGLISHMEN. 187
became governor of the State of Illinois .* This is a class representing the active intellect of the country, possessing a great deal of tact and intelligence.
It is very curious to see how differently the Eastern American, the Southerner, and the Englishman proceed in their way of farming, where they all begin with little or nothing. The Southerner, as I have before stated, goes into the woods, girdles a few trees, and raises some corn and pumpkins. It is hard to say how he employs himself the rest of the year. Industry, that is, systematic and continuous labor, he seems utterly to avoid; but he gets along after his own fashion, and, occasionally, by fits and starts, he will accomplish more than either of the others. But his periods of hard work are, for the most part, sepa- rated by long periods of inaction. The Eastern man, or
* This must have been Augustus C. French of Palestine, Crawford County, elected governor of Illinois in 1846. His nomination, by the Democratic party, was the result of an accident. The convention could not agree on any of the prominent candidates, and in the present parlance, French became the dark horse. He was a very quiet, unobtrusive, honest man, but not in any way distinguished; living on the Wabash, had never mixed much with society, and had but little knowledge of etiquette when he first went to Springfield. It was the custom then, as now, for the governor to give occasional receptions to the members of the Legislature, judges, lawyers, strangers from abroad, etc. The story goes that Hon. Thompson Campbell of Galena, who had been secretary-of-state under Governor Ford, and who was not only a great wit, but remarkably quick at repartee, attended one of these receptions. Entering the house, not finding the governor receiving his guests in the front parlor, he straggled into a back room, where he found him sitting alone on a sofa. Approaching him, the governor extended his hand and asked Mr. C. to excuse him for not 'rising. Quick as a flash, Campbell replied, "Oh! certainly, cer- tainly, Governor; we never expect anything like politeness on these little occasions." Mr. Campbell represented the Galena District in Congress for two years, from 1850 to 1852, and was then made a judge of the United States Land-Court in California. He has been dead some years.
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ENGLISH SETTLEMENT IN EDWARDS COUNTY.
Yankee, as we call him, shows great dexterity and good management in all he does. He has a certain sleight that seems to make his work go' off rapidly and easily; and this quality is observable in the women as well as the men, in the housework as well as in the farmwork, and is very noticeable when contrasted with the mode of labor of most of the Europeans. If he meet with a difficulty he evades it, or lets it stand by, until he is better able to contend with it. Industrious, economical, and with a thrifty experience, he seems to get along easily, and sur- passes the Englishman at a great rate. The Englishman, unpractised in the ways of the country, does not take hold of things by the smooth handle. He plants him- self squarely before his difficulties, he evades nothing, but works hard and steadily to remove them; not always with dexterity, on the contrary, he often seems to take hold of things the wrong way. But the Englishman has a higher standard in his mind. He has seen well-cultivated farms, and substantial and convenient farm-houses ; mansions surrounded by verdant lawns, kept as closely shorn as the pile on a Turkey carpet, and the gravel-walks kept as clean as the floor of the drawing-room. These high standards he may not reach, but he approaches some- what toward them. His improvements are more substan- tial, and he stays upon them. After some years, com- paring the two, the Englishman has surpassed the Ameri- can. In a few more, the American is gone; but the Englishman remains.
The three brother Michaels, who seemed to have less of the roaming propensity than most Americans that set-
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