USA > Illinois > Edwards County > History of the English settlement in Edwards County, Illinois : founded in 1817 and 1818, by Morris Birkbeck and George Flower > Part 6
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71
A CHARMING PRAIRIE.
imity to timber, and of every form, each with its own peculiar style of beauty. One small prairie charmed me very much-not more than two hundred yards wide and about half-a-mile long. A thin belt of tall and graceful trees marked its boundary from other and larger prairies. Its distinguishing feature was a large Indian mound in the centre, covered with the same rank growth of grass as in other parts of the prairie. Its beauties lying in silent soli- tude, with its ancient burial-place of a by-gone race, gave to it an unusual and somewhat mysterious interest. These tumuli are not the burying-place of the present race of Indians; but of an anterior race, probably displaced by the Indians as we are displacing them. These prairies were only less desirable than those east of the Little Wa- bash as being further from main navigation, the Little Wabash not being navigable for steam-boats.
Harris returned with us to Birk's, carrying the super- annuated fiddle carefully along. It was kept in scream until a late hour, bringing to the inmates of the cabin happy recollections of Tennessee, the State from which they had emigrated. The people of which Birk and Harris were specimens, were serviceable to us in our first settlement. Dexterous with the ax, they built all our first log-cabins, and supplied us with venison. In a year or two, they moved into less-peopled regions, or to where there were no people at all, and were entirely lost to this part of the country. The people in this part of Illinois are mostly from the slave-states, from the class of "poor whites," so-called. When they leave their homes and come into the little towns, on some real or pretended busi-
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ENGLISH SETTLEMENT IN EDWARDS COUNTY.
ness, they are sober and quiet. They soon get to the whisky-bottle, their bane and ruin. Getting into a state to desire more, they drink all they can, becoming disagree- able, fractious, and often dangerous men. One glass kin- dles the eye, the second loosens the tongue, the third makes them madmen. They own a horse, rifle, ax, and hoe. It is astonishing to see with what deterity they use a good ax, and how well they shoot with even a bad rifle. They are not of industrious habits, but occasionally work with great vigor.
Solitude, watchfulness, and contemplation amidst the scenes of nature, from day to day, from week to week, and often from month to month, give them that calm and dig- nified behavior not to be found in the denizens of civilized life. Another portion of this class follow a different des- tiny. Their little corn-patch increases to a field, their first shanty to a small log-house, which, in turn, gives place to a double-cabin, in which the loom and spinning-wheel are installed. A well and a few fruit-trees after a time com- plete the improvement. Moderate in their aspirations, they soon arrive at the summit of their desires. Does a more complicated mode of life and a larger amount of wealth add to human happiness? The only difference between these stationary settlers and the roving hunters appears to be in the sobriety of the one and the intemper- ance of the other.
We returned to Princeton by a more direct route, cross- ing the Wabash at La Vallette's ferry. Auguste La Val- lette was a Frenchman of Canadian birth, I suppose nearly seven feet high; tall and thin as all the La Vallettes were.
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OVERTAKEN BY NIGHT.
His brother François, recently killed by the Indians, lived on a similar site on the Wabash, forty miles higher up the river, on a freestone bluff, now called Coffee Island, and similar points and residences of Canadian-French families, forty and fifty miles apart, are to be found up the Wabash wherever the banks are high and commanding, sometimes on the Illinois and sometimes on the Indiana side of the river.
Before leaving Illinois, night overtook us. We halted by the side of a fallen log, at a point of timber that stretched into the prairie. A fire being kindled, we sat down on the grass, talked over and decided what was to be done, I remember the spot well; it was then called the Long Prairie that runs west and east, toward La Vallette's ferry, on the Great Wabash (now Rochester), not far from a farm afterward made by Mr. John Kean, a native of Cornwall, but somewhat nearer to the farm now owned and occupied by Mr. John Cowling, and about a-half mile west of his father-in-law's house and farm, Mr. Edward Coad, now over eighty years old, enjoying a sound constitution and good health.
This spot, so particularly fixed in my memory, I never passed in after years without a halt, to allow the panorama of the past, with all its vivid pictures to flit before me. Here our future destinies were fixed, and to the decisions made here the present English Settlement in Edwards County, Illinois, owes its existence.
The result of our decision was this :- After clubbing together all the money we could then command, Mr. Birk- beck was to go to Shawneetown and enter all the wood-
.
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ENGLISH SETTLEMENT IN EDWARDS COUNTY.
land around the Boltenhouse Prairie. We had not money enough with us to purchase the whole prairie. I was to return to England to remit him money as soon as possible, take with me and publish the manuscript of his book con- taining the record of our journey from Richmond to the prairies; bring out my father's family; and spread the in- formation; point out the road to it ; and facilitate emigra- tion generally. He was on the home department to pur- chase more land and make the necessary preparations in building. I on the foreign mission, to bring in the people. As will be seen hereafter, he did his duty and I did mine.
In a state of doubt, the wakeful mind allows of no com- plete rest to the body. Decisions once made, doubts banished, the way made clear, the mind looses its tension, and for a while rests in unconsciousness. The body relaxed in fibre, succumbs to fatigue. Both seek repose and refreshment in sleep. It was so with us. Stretched on our blankets, feet to the fire, saddle for a pillow, oblivi- ous of doubt, insensible to danger, we slept soundly until morning. After a hasty cup of coffee by our camp-fire, untethered our horses, mounted and rode to the Wabash, about six miles distant, was ferried over that stream by the tall Frenchman who owned that ferry, floundered through the odious swamp which lay on the Indiana side, for a mile, knee-deep in mud and water, and, after another ten-mile ride, rejoined the family at Princeton.
CHAPTER IV.
Fear of Speculators-Desire to get a Grant of Land from Congress- Mr. Jefferson Written to on the Subject His Answer-Letter of Hon. Nathaniel Pope-Reply of Mr. Birkbeck-Mr. Flower sets out for England Long Horseback-Trip to Chambersburgh, Pa., Accompanied by Mrs. Flower The Outfit Incidents of the Jour- ney Mrs. Flower Remains in Chambersburgh -- Mr. Flower Sails from New York to Liverpool-Birkbeck's Notes of Travel-The Emigrants.
OUR safe return to Princeton was hailed by our families with affectionate joy. Thankfully we enjoyed, for a few days, a home made comfortable by cheerful hearts and active hands. After needful rest from our harassing jour- ney in the prairies, we thought of our own position. Our first measure was to secure as much land as our present means would allow in the Boltenhouse Prairic. By a jour- ney to Shawneetown, seventy miles distant, this was done, and about three thousand acres secured by payment into the land-office.
It was evident to Mr. Birkbeck and myself, at the time we made our first entries of land in the Boltenhouse Prairie, that we were exposed to the invasion of specula- tors. Having expended all the money we could then command, by securing but little more than half the land we intended for own families, we felt fearful, as the point of our settlement was designated, that speculators might buy the lands immediately around those we had purchased
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ENGLISH SETTLEMENT IN EDWARDS COUNTY.
and thus defeat our object in preserving lands at the gov- ernment price for those we hoped to induce to come from Great Britain the following year. Fortunately for us, at this time, there was a great scarcity of money, and the people in the countries of Indiana and Kentucky, adjacent to Southern Illinois, were almost all of them more or less in debt, and we were not then advertised, we had made no publications. From these circumstances, probably we were for the time secured from the species of obtrusion we so much dreaded. I wrote to Mr. Jefferson, asking his opinion as to whether Congress, on suitable application, would be likely to make us a grant of a township of land for our contemplated settlement. His reply was prompt and full; and as this letter, from that eminent statesman, so ably covers the whole ground of the inquiry, and is so characteristic of the man, no apology is needed for its insertion, feeling persuaded that it will be an object of interest to the reader long after the general narrative shall have faded from view. I may add that the original letter is now deposited in the archives of the Chicago Historical Society. In long after years, the curious reader of old documents will not fail to admire the neatness and even- ness of the handwriting, which is preserved with unvarying accuracy from the first to the last word of this interesting letter .* But further action in this matter had to be dropped.
* This letter is still in possession of the Chicago Historical Society, and is now before me. It bears out all Mr. Flower says of it. It is charac- teristic of Mr. Jefferson, who was one of the most conscientious and painstak- ing of correspondents. He made it a point to reply to all letters whose writers had any claim to his consideration, and he never did it hurriedly nor in a careless or slip-shod manner. The extreme neatness and regularity of
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LETTER OF MR. JEFFERSON.
I was soon on my way to Great Britain to prepare our first emigrating parties.
"POPLAR FOREST, 12th July, 1817.
"Dear Sir :- Your favor of August 12th was yesterday received at this place, and I learn from it with pleasure that you have found a tract of country which will suit you for settlement. To us, your first choice would have been gratifying, by adding yourself and friends to our society, but the overruling consideration with us, as with you, is your own advantage, and it would doubtless be a greater comfort to you to have your ancient friends and neighbors settled around you. I sincerely wish that your proposition to purchase a tract of land in Illinois on favorable terms, for introducing a colony of English farmers, may encounter no difficulties from the established rules of our land-de- partment.
" The general law prescribes an open sale, where all citi- zens may compete on an equal footing for any lot of land which attracts their choice. To dispense with this in any particular case requires a special law of Congress, and to special legislation we are generally averse, lest a principle of favoritism should creep in and prevent that of equal rights. It has, however, been done on some occasions, when special national advantages has been expected to
his handwriting is the more remarkable when the fact of a broken wrist is taken into consideration, which seriously disabled him and was a great trouble and annoyance for many years, and of which he often complained. It was a most fortunate thing that this letter and many other valuable autograph letters, written to Mr. Flower, and presented by him to the Society, as well as the manuscript history of Edwards County, had been borrowed of the librarian a few days before the great fire in 1871, and thus saved from destruction.
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ENGLISH SETTLEMENT IN EDWARDS COUNTY.
outweigh that of adherence to the general rule. The promised introduction of the culture of the vine procured a special law in favor of the Swiss Settlement on the Ohio. That of the culture of oil, wine, and other Southern pro- ductions did the same lately for the French Settlement on the Tombigbee. It remains to be tried whether that of an improved system of farming, interesting to so great a proportion of our citizens, may not also be worth a dis- pensation of the general rule. This, I suppose, is the principal ground on which your proposition will be ques- tioned, for although, as to other foreigners, it is thought better to discourage their settling together in large masses, wherein, as in our German settlements, they preserve for a long time their own language, habits, and principles of government, and that they should distribute themselves sparsely among the natives, for quicker amalgamation, yet English emigrants are without this inconvenience, they differ from us but little in their principles of government, and most of those (merchants excepted) who come here are sufficiently disposed to adopt ours. What the issue, therefore, of your proposition may probably be, I am less able to advise you than many others, for, during the last eight or ten years, I have no knowledge of the administra- tion of the land-office, or the principles of its government, even the persons on whom it will depend are all changed within that interval, so as to leave me small means of being useful to you. Whatever they may be, however, they shall be fully exercised for your advantage; and that not on the selfish principle of increasing our population at the expense of other nations, for the additions are but as a
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MR. JEFFERSON'S LETTER CONTINUED.
drop in a bucket to those by natural procreation, but to consecrate a sanctuary for those whom the misrule of Europe may compel to seek happiness in other climes. This refuge, once known, will produce reaction, even of those there, by warning their task-masters that when the evils of Egyptian oppression become heavier than those of abandonment of country, another's canaan is opened, where their subjects will be received as brothers and secured from like oppression by a participation in the rights of self- government.
"If additional motives could be wanting into the main- tainance of this right, they would be found in the animat- ing consideration that a single good government becomes thus a blessing to the whole earth; its welcome to the oppressed restraining within certain limits the measure of their oppressions, but should ever this be counteracted by violence on the right of expatriation, the other branch of our example then presents itself to their imitation, to use on their rulers, and do as we have done.
"You have set your country a good example, by show- ing them a practicable mode of reducing their rulers to the necessity of becoming more wise, more moderate, and more honest, and I sincerely pray that the example may work for the benefit of those who can not follow it, as it will for your own.
"With Mr. Birkbeck, the associate of your extraordinary journeyings, I have not the happiness of personal acquaint- ance, but I know him through his narrative of your jour- neyings together through France. The impressions re- ceived from that, give me confidence that a participation
:
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ENGLISH SETTLEMENT IN EDWARDS COUNTY.
with yourself in the assurances of the esteem and -respect of a stranger will not be unacceptable to him, and the less when given through you and associated with those to your- self.
"TH: JEFFERSON. "To George Flower, Esq."
During my absence in England, danger from the same source was, no doubt, entertained by Mr. Birkbeck. A correspondence between him and Hon. Nathaniel Pope, delegate for the Territory in Congress, on the same subject, shows in what light the delegate viewed the application and the applicant.
It seems that Mr. Birkbeck's application was for an extension of time of payment, as we should now say for a preemption, on forty thousand acres of land. It is some- what curious to see how the minds of different individuals, entertaining the same general views, and actuated by simi- lar principles arrive at the same conclusions. Thus in view of danger from land speculation we acted individ- ually, but in a similar manner. Again, at the time of the convention question, without any communication with each other, we gave all the strength of our respective abilities to defeat that nefarious measure. We shall see more distinctly the nature of the petition forwarded to Congress, through Nathaniel Pope, by the perusal of the following letters. The first letter (Mr. Pope's) was in an- swer to one accompanying the petition referred to. The reply by Mr. Birkbeck fully explains his first letter .*
* The original letter of Mr. Pope's is of the number of letters presented to the Chicago Historical Society by Mr. Flower. The handwriting is
1
8I
LETTER OF NATHANIEL POPE.
"WASHINGTON, Dec. 17, 1817.
"Sir :- J duly received your letter and petition. It is so indefinite as to leave me embarrassed in adopting a course. It is much to be regretted that you had not entered into more explanatory details. I read, with great pleasure, your notes on your late tour to Illinois, in hopes of finding a solution to my difficulties, but in vain; I mean in quan- tity and terms of payment. I am so much flattered by your selection of the Illinois Territory as your permanent residence in the prospect of the permanent advantages it may derive from your experience in the arts of hus- bandry, that I can not fail to indulge an ardent wish that you may succeed in your plan.
"I made some enquiries of Mr. Adams, late minister to London, now secretary-of-state, who speaks of you in the most flattering terms. I can not, however, conceal from you the only cause that will defeat your application. Al- though not personal to you, yet its operation is hostile to your views; I mean the fear of speculation. This fear is not awakened by any part of your conduct, but that of
remarkably smooth, regular, and even elegant, denoting a man of education and rare adaptation to business. All the older members of the legal pro- fession in Illinois will well remember Nathaniel Pope, so long and so honora- bly identified with the history of the Territory and State of Illinois. He was the first secretary of the Territory of Illinois, holding the office from March 7, 1809, to December 17, 1816. In the latter year, he was elected delegate to Congress from Illinois, and procured its admission as a State in ISIS. He was the first judge of the United States District Court for the State of Illinois, and held that position till his death, in 1849, a period of thirty-one years. His successor, Hon. Thomas Drummond, has held the position of District and Circuit Judge of the United States Courts for over thirty-three years.
Judge Pope was a man of intelligence and education, to which he united a remarkably acute intellect. He was a good lawyer, an honest man, and incor- ruptible judge. Maj .- Gen. John Pope, of the United States Army, is his son. 6
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ENGLISH SETTLEMENT IN EDWARDS COUNTY.
others. The bounty and liberality of the Government has been so often diverted from the intended objects, that members of Congress are diffident of supporting applica- tions of the nature of yours, as they have no personal knowledge of you. I regret that your arrangements did not comprehend a visit to this place, at this time, as per- sonal explanations would have advanced your plan, which seems to me replete with important advantages to the Territory, and well calculated to advance the happiness of the human family upon a more extended scale than ap- pears from a limited consideration of its operation. I can not, however, advise you to come on after the reception of this letter, as it would be too late to effectuate anything. Every thing that I can do under the stimulus of no ordin- ary anxiety for your success, shall be attempted. I hope to have the pleasure of hearing from you at an early period.
"In the meanwhile, I beg you to accept assurances of my zeal in your cause, and with sentiments of respect and esteem, I am, your ob'd't ser't,
"NATH'L POPE.
"To Morris Birkbeck, Esq."
To which Mr. Birkbeck replied:
" PRINCETON, January 16, 1818.
"Sir :- Owing to the interruption of the mails, your favor of the 14th ultimo has only just reached me. I regret that I did not state more particularly my views in regard to the object of the memorial I transmitted to you. As to terms, I should not be so weak as to reject any advantage which the liberality of the Government might afford. It is not a reduction of the price I would solicit,
83
LETTER OF MORRIS BIRKBECK.
but such an extension of time of payment as might pre- clude embarrassment or disappointment. As to quantity, my idea was that it might be left indefinite to a certain extent. That is, that I might be allowed to engage as I might require for the purpose specified, not exceeding twenty, thirty, or forty thousand acres, leaving Govern- ment to fix the limits. This plan is, I think, not liable to be abused as a means of speculation, a design which, I think, would not be imputed to me by those who are acquainted with my habits; yet it is perfectly natural that a jealousy of that kind should operate in the way you mention. I dare say it is now too late for my explanation to avail anything. But I am anxious to express my obli- gation to you for your attention, whatever may be the result. I believe my plan is calculated to produce import- ant benefits without risk or concomitant evil, and I am gratified to find that it has your approbation.
"I am, sir, most sincerely yours, " MORRIS BIRKBECK."
Our efforts in securing a preemption on a large quantity of land, through the preliminary correspondence with Jefferson and Pope, were unsuccessful. Our hands were full of business, and we could not give to it the personal attention that such business at Washington requires.
We had been two months at Princeton. The family always there; our two selves almost always away, had com- pleted our work of exploration. The time now approached for my return to England, to carry out the next step. To make publication, bring people to the land, and place our-
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ENGLISH SETTLEMENT IN EDWARDS COUNTY.
selves in funds. Our first plan was that Mrs. Flower should remain with Mr. Birkbeck's family and that I should proceed on my journey eastward and my voyage alone. To make a will and dispose of our effects in a secure and desirable manner is always proper, yet how often deferred. -
I therefore, before leaving Princeton, made my will. Mr. Birkbeck, Miss Birkbeck, and Bradford Birkbeck were witnesses to that instrument. How little did we think that this was to be our last united act. That we were never more to meet again or speak a friendly word to each other. Before leaving Princeton, we agreed on the division of our land and the building of our houses. On the latter point, we differed a little in opinion. He pro- posed that the north-and-south line, which divided our land, should run through one house. I living in the apartments on my land, and his family occupying the apartments on his land, both families, in fact, living in one house. Mrs. Flower and myself thought it better to live in our own house, and that Mr. Birkbeck's family should live in their house, however near those houses might be. This was the first difference in our plan of operations that had ever occurred between us, and, trivial as it may seem, perhaps we may ascribe to it that divergence which carried the lasting separation that followed; as the ridge-tile of a house separates two raindrops, that fall within an inch of each other, in the same shower, casting one eastwardly, to mingle ultimately with the Atlantic Ocean, the other, westward, destined to add its atom to the Pacific.
Although our residence at Princeton was one of united
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PREPARATION TO RETURN TO ENGLAND.
effort and cordial friendship, our feelings did not exhibit that even and warm glow which shone upon the party as it journeyed to the West. They partook now more of the character of an April day, when the clouds fly high and rapidly cast shadows on the bright sunshine as they pass.
We were now in changed circumstances, our plans re- quired the division and subdivision of our little party. Some to turn back, encountering long journeys by land and voyages by sea, before they could be united again. And the part that remained, often to be divided through winter and succeeding spring, some remaining in Indiana and some wandering in Illinois. This naturally cast a shade of thought upon us all.
The time arrived for my return to England. All cir- cumstances being considered, Mrs. Flower and myself thought it better to take the journey East together. We should enjoy each other's company three weeks longer, and, at my return in the following spring, we should again meet months earlier than we otherwise could. The last day at Princeton was spent by Mr. Birkbeck and myself in talking over the business that each was to do separately. He, in the further purchase of land as soon as funds could be procured, and in the erection of cabins and other neces- sary preparations for the settlement in spring. He handed to me his two manuscripts. One to be published in Phila- delphia and one in England.
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