USA > Illinois > Edwards County > History of the English settlement in Edwards County, Illinois : founded in 1817 and 1818, by Morris Birkbeck and George Flower > Part 4
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One after the other, each of our hosts (if they might be so called) dropped in on some pretence, and soon went out again. We were watching and being watched, and I think each party was conscious of the fact. But nature would not entirely resign her dues. It is hard to keep awake a whole night, after a day's fatigue on horseback. Before morning I was in a sound sleep, from which I was aroused
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ENGLISH SETTLEMENT IN EDWARDS COUNTY.
by my companions for an early start, as they said aloud. As our bill had been paid the night before, nothing hin- dered us from going to the stable for our horses. Not one of them had touched their oats or corn. They looked badly, and one came out rather lame in a hind leg. The mountain road was steep. The morning's mist did not permit us to see ten steps before us. Our progress at first was necessarily slow, and made slower by the lameness of one of the horses. When at a sufficient distance, we made a general halt. After a whispered consultation by my companions, the doctor, as he was called (as much a horse as human doctor from his appearance), examined the lame horse, and pronounced him "string cress'd." This opera- tion is performed by taking a thread of silk or a long hair from a horse's tail and tying it rather tight around the ten- der part of the fetlock, just over the hoof, but under the short hairs that drop over the crown of the hoof, and in this way the thread is concealed. Inflammation accom- panied by lameness speedily ensues. The doctor said the horse had been cress'd, but the string had been taken off before leaving the stable.' From this time onward, we were on the lookout, and kept close order. When beyond the distance of apprehended danger, our tongues were loosened, and many stories of robberies and murders were told. The horses not eating was accounted for by their teeth being greased, which, it is said, will effectually prevent a horse from eating. I had traveled a thousand miles alone ; I now felt satisfied with company. The road was moun- tainous and rocky, the accommodations bad, and the peo- ple uneducated, and frequently intemperate-in short of
43
POPLAR FOREST-MR. JEFFERSON.
the class called "poor whites," although many were not without means. We entered the State of Virginia at Abington. I found Mr. Jefferson at his Poplar - Forest estate, in the western part of the State of Virginia. His house was built after the fashion of a French chateau. Octagon rooms, floors of polished oak, lofty ceilings, large mirrors, betokened his French taste, acquired by his long residence in France. Mr. Jefferson's figure was rather majestic: tall (over six feet), thin, and rather high-shoul- dered; manners, simple, kind, and courteous. His dress, in color and form, was quaint and old-fashioned, plain and neat-a dark pepper-and-salt coat, cut in the old quaker fashion, with a single row of large metal buttons, knee- breeches, gray-worsted stockings, shoes fastened by large metal buckles-such was the appearance of Jefferson when I first made his acquaintance, in 1816. His two grand- daughters-Misses Randolph -well-educated and accom- plished young ladies, were staying with him at the time.
After a brief stay at Poplar Forest, I proceeded to the house of Col. John Coles, in Albemarle County. Messrs. Isaac and Walter Coles, brothers, lived with him. Mr. Edward Coles, the youngest brother, was then in England, forming an acquaintance with Mr. Birkbeck. The sister, Miss Coles, had just been married. Her husband, Mr. Stevenson, then a young lawyer, afterward minister to Great Britain, was then on a bridal visit .*
* Col. John Coles was an officer of the Revolution, and belonged to the highest type of the old-school Virginians. At his plantation, called Ennis- corthy, he dispensed a liberal and generous hospitality, and he had, among his guests, many of the most distinguished citizens of the Commonwealth in that day. His oldest son, Isaac Coles, was the private-secretary of Mr. Jeffer-
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ENGLISH SETTLEMENT IN EDWARDS COUNTY.
The greater part of the winter I passed at Monticello, the permanent residence of Mr. Jefferson, in Albemarle County. The chief charm of the visit was in the evening conversations with Mr. Jefferson,# who gave me the inner
son, during his two terms of the presidency, and his brother, Edward Coles, subsequently governor of Illinois, was for six years the private secretary of Mr. Madison. Enniscorthy is on the Green Mountains, in Albemarle County, about fifteen miles from Charlottesville, the county seat. The whole surround- ing country is beautiful, and, at the epoch of Mr. Flower's visit, the neighbor- ing plantations were in the highest state of cultivation. - The proprietors were generally men of wealth, education, and refinement, who devoted themselves to agriculture, con amore. The large and elegant mansion on the Estouteville plantation, adjoining Enniscorthy, was planned and built by Mr. Nelson, the architect of the University of Virginia, brought out from England by Mr. Jefferson. The attention of the visitor to Enniscorthy is attracted by a small cemetery, in which were buried many members of the Coles' family. Here also repose the remains of Andrew Stevenson, the speaker of the House of Representatives for eight years, and afterward minister to Great Britain. * His second wife was Sarah Coles, the daughter of Col. John Coles and sister of Gov. Edward Coles, a lady of remarkable beauty and accomplishments. Hon. John White Stevenson, ex-governor and ex-United States senator from Ken- tucky, is the son of Andrew Stevenson.
* Nothing can be more interesting than the life-like sketch of Mr. Jefferson as Mr. Flower first saw him, in 1816, at Poplar Forest. Mr. Jefferson was passionately fond of agriculture, and never so thoroughly happy as when overlooking his plantations. His large possessions at Monticello did not seem to satisfy him, and he purchased an estate in Bedford County, which he called Poplar Forest, and which was but a short distance east of Lynchburg. The visit to Monticello of Mr. Flower, with his rare intelligence, his literary tastes, and his knowledge of men and things in Europe, must have been in- teresting to both parties. It is melancholy to reflect on the changes which have taken place at Monticello since Mr. Flower's visit in IS16-7. That home, of the "author of the Declaration of Independence, the statute of Virginia for religious freedom, and the father of the University of Virginia," known the world over almost as widely as Mount Vernon, has gone into the hands of strangers, and fallen into ruin and decay. Persons from distant States and countries, holding the memory of Mr. Jefferson in reverence and affection, in visiting Monticello, now find the house which he built, and in which he lived and died, closed to all comers.
·
* Personal observation.
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AT WASHINGTON-BIRKBECK'S ARRIVAL.
history of events, before only known to me, as to the world generally, in the published records or outside history, which is all that the public is generally allowed to see. I was much attracted by the features of the country, and by the climate of Western Virginia. But the brand of slavery was upon the land. Dilapidated fences, decaying homesteads, worn-out land everywhere met the eye, giving an uninviting aspect to a country perhaps more favored by nature than any other portion of the Union.
Early in the spring, I was present at the inauguration of James Monroe as president of the United States. At the house of Mr. Madison, I saw, for the first time, Mr. Edward Coles, who had just returned from Great Britain. I again returned to Philadelphia, after a nine-months' ab- sence, having accomplished a journey of two thousand miles, without loss of health or accident, and without dis- turbance or dispute with any human being. I was staying with my friends at Philadelphia, in some doubt whether to return to England or to remain a while longer and see something more. I had almost decided to return, when I unexpectedly received a letter informing me of the arrival of Mr. Birkbeck and his family at Richmond. From my numerous acquaintance, Philadelphia had become my American home. It is one of the painful experiences of a traveler to be torn, perhaps forever, from new friends, from whom he has received many civilities and much kindness. It is like tearing up a plant that has just taken fresh root. There were, staying in Philadelphia, two young men, one from Norfolk, England, another from London, who in- tended to go Westward with me, should I so decide; but,
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ENGLISH SETTLEMENT IN EDWARDS COUNTY.
during the winter, their destinations were altered. One . had received an army appointment in the East-Indies, the other to fill some situation in Australia. We all three walked together to the wharf. The bells of the steam- boats, as they simultaneously struck their warning for departure, were to us the knell-note of a life-long separa- tion. We shook each other by the hand for the last time. I stepped on board the Baltimore boat, they on board the one bound for New York; and we were lost to each other forever more in this world. My first solitary journey was now ended, and a new experience in travel about to begin.
CHAPTER III.
Joins Mr. Birkbeck and Family in Richmond, Va .- Miss Andrews, afterward Mrs. Flower-Decides to go Westward from Richmond -Incidents of the Trip-Meets with Mr. Sloo, U. S. Land-Officer at Shawneetown, who conducts the Party to Illinois-They stop at Gen. Harrison's, at North Bend-At Vincennes-" Painted Warriors, Bedecked Squaws, and Bedizened Pappooses"- Mr. Birkbeck's Daughters and Miss Andrews-Difficuities of the Journey bravely met-Mr. Birkbeck proposes Marriage to Miss Andrews-Offer Declined-Leads to Unpleasant Results-The · Party first Establishes itself at Princeton, Indiana- A Visit to the Shaker Settlement at Busro-Account of the French-Cana- dian Settlement at Cattinet-Birkbeck and Flower start out in Search of the "Prairies"-Pass through New Harmony, George Rapp's Colony-Description of the Place-Cross the Wabash and enter the Territory of Illinois, and reach the "Big-Prairie " Settlement-" Boltenhouse Prairie," a Beautiful Sight-Crossing the Wabash into Illinois Territory-Hard Ride to Birk's Prairie -The Prairie Flies-Captain Birk, a Specimen Pioneer - His Cabin and his Family-Intense Prejudice against the British- Journey Continued-Reflections on the Pioneers-Long Prairie reached, where the English Settlement was afterward made- Return to Princeton Timber-land around Boltenhouse Prairie entered at Shawneetown - Mr. Birkbeck to remain and Mr. Flower to return to England to procure more Funds and beat up for Recruits-The Decision made.
AT Richmond, I joined Mr. Birkbeck and his family, composed of nine individuals. Himself aged about fifty- four, his second son, Bradford, a youth of sixteen, his third son, Charles, a lad of fourteen, a little servant-boy, "Gil-
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ENGLISH SETTLEMENT IN EDWARDS COUNTY.
lard", who had lived with Mr. Birkbeck all his life, about thirteen years old, and with the party was a cousin of mine, and of my age-twenty-nine, Mr. Elias Pym Ford- ham. Of the females, Miss Eliza Birkbeck was nineteen, Miss Prudence Birkbeck, sixteen, and Miss Eliza Julia Andrews, twenty-five.
Miss Andrews (now Mrs. Flower) was the second daugh- ter of Rev. Mordicah Andrews of Eigeshall, in the county of Essex, England. There was great friendship between the members of Mr. Birkbeck's family and Miss Andrews, and, latterly, she stood almost in the relation of an elder daughter. Being on a visit to Wanborough, at the time Mr. Birkbeck decided on emigrating to America, she con- sented to accompany them, and under his protection to share the adventures that awaited them in the new world. A little orphan girl, Elizabeth Garton, completes the list of Mr. Birkbeck's family in America, and with me added to them made up the party that made their way into Illinois.
These were the original band of explorers. Of this party thus composed forty years ago, but one is now living in the Settlement-the little poor boy (now old man with large family and independent property) Gillard. Yet, consider- ing the length of time, the many risks and dangers they · encountered, a large proportion of this little band are living. Three are dead, seven are living and widely scat- tered : one in England, two in Mexico, one in Australia, two in Indiana, and one in Illinois. Turning our eyes from the scattered remnant now standing on the four quarters of the globe, we will proceed on our journey.
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GOING WESTWARD.
After consultation, we decided to go westward, exactly where was uncertain. The journey to Pittsburgh by stage was a rough affair, in those days. But rough as it was the convenience of a stage-coach was to be found no farther. From some accident to the stage, the whole party were obliged to walk twelve miles into Pittsburgh. By descending the river Ohio in an "Ark", we should see nothing of the country, and we had no fixed point to go to. It was from this point that our journey of exploration may have said to have begun. Each individual of our party of ten was to be furnished with a horse and its
equipments. An underblanket for the horse, a large blanket on the seat of the saddle for the rider, a pair of well-filled saddle-bags, all secured by a surcingle, a great- coat or cloak, with umbrella strapped behind, completed the appointments for each person. The purchase of the horses devolved upon me. In three days I had them all mounted. Imagine our cavalcade performing its journey day by day across the then wilderness states of Ohio and Indiana.
The omens of our first day's journey were not auspi- cious. Crossing a bridge made of large logs, over a creek emptying into the Ohio River, one of the logs was missing, leaving a gap nearly two feet wide, showing the water twenty feet below. My horse, young and inexperienced, leaped high and fell, rolling over me, and falling into the Ohio River, twenty feet below. She went down out of sight. In a few seconds she rose again, and with some difficulty, was saved from drowning and secured, with no other loss than a broken 'umbrella and a soaking to the
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ENGLISH SETTLEMENT IN EDWARDS COUNTY.
contents of the saddle-bags. Farther on, Bradford Birk- beck's horse took fright and ran furiously with him through the woods, endangering life and limb of the rider. Luckily the girths broke and spilled everything, leaving the rider, fortunately, with whole bones, but with some bruises.
The regular days' journey, steadily pursued, soon broke . in both horse and rider. In fine weather and hard roads, it was very pleasant, no remarkable fatigue felt, the party kept well together, chatting agreeably by the way. At other times, from excessive heat or some atmospheric change, a general languor prevailed, and some dropped behind at a slower pace. The party would be sometimes strung out, one behind the other, for three or four miles. The horses, too, became spiritless and dull, so as to require a touch of the whip or spur. On such occasions, nothing brought us into order like a loud clap of thunder and a drenching shower of rain. The privations on the journey were many. The taverns, as they were called, but, in reality, often mere shanties, were sometimes destitute of either door or window, affording only a place on the floor to spread cloak or blanket. The hot sun, the sudden storms, accompanied by torrents of rain, thunder and light- ning, dangers imminent from crossing swollen and rapid streams were incidents of travel, borne not only with equa- nimity but cheerfulness by every member of the party. So the journey wore along.
At Cincinnati, we were entertained in the hospitable house of Mr. Jeremiah Neave. Before leaving the city, we. became acquainted with a Mr. Sloo, register of the newly-
5I
INCIDENTS OF TIIE JOURNEY.
opened land-office at Shawneetown, in the Territory of Illi- nois. He gave us a more distinct account of the prairies in his land-district. He was going to Illinois on horseback, and offered to accompany and conduct us there. By his advice, we added a pack-horse to our already-numerous train; for the journey through the wilderness of Indiana would be attended by more discomforts than the track through Ohio from Pittsburgh to Cincinnati. Our first halt, after leaving the city, was at the house of a friend of Mr. Sloo's, at North-Bend-General Harrison. I thought it rather a cool proceeding to introduce such a strong party of strangers to the house and family of an absent friend. The pack-horse was long in arriving. Bradford had his difficulties; the pack turned in the streets of Cin- cinnati, dropping a blanket here and a coffee-pot there, the horse walking on with the greatest indifference, with the pack swinging under his belly, strewing its contents from one end of the street to the other, to the mirth of the spectators and amid the jeers and jibes of all the urchins of the place. Perseverance conquers all things. Bradford gathered up his traps and joined us late at North-Bend. We were very kindly received by Mrs. Harrison, and took our departure the next day. Cabins now became more distant to each other, roads deep in black mud, the forest more unbroken, dark, and gloomy. The additional blank- ets and food on the pack-horse were often needed. About two-thirds of the way across Indiana, the road forked. Mr. Sloo took the southern road, pointing to the lower ferry on the Wabash, leading to Shawneetown. We con- tinued due west on the road to Vincennes.
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ENGLISH SETTLEMENT IN EDWARDS COUNTY.
One sultry evening, when in the deep forest, with our line extended for two or three miles, black clouds suddenly gathered up, extinguishing what light there was. Thun- der, lightning, and rain descended and continued, accom- panied by violent wind. The storm came so suddenly that the stragglers in the rear were driven into the woods, and there had to stay. Myself and three or four at the head of the line pushed on and reached a cabin. By noon, the next day, all had got together again.
Just before leaving the timber to enter the prairie, on which the town of Vincennes stands, we met an Indian on horseback. A new blanket wrapped around him, leggins and moccasins adorned with beads, a bandage round the head sustaining a bunch of feathers; his face and breast painted ochre-red, with tomahawk and rifle, a stalwart savage was he. Others sat in groups among the bushes, cooling their legs in the lagoons of water, or engaged in conversation with each other. Others lay scattered on the ground, some asleep and some dead drunk. As we pro- ceeded their numbers increased. Painted warriors, be- decked squaws, bedizened pappooses, all were there. They had come in to take their treaty-stipend and traffic with the agents and traders that lived in Vincennes. They were a part of the valiant band that surprised Harrison on the battle-ground of Tippecanoe, and had nearly over- powered him. Though fighting hard and inflicting great loss upon Harrison's army, they lost the battle, and with it their prestige and their country! They came in now not as supplicants, but painted defiantly! Their look and manner plainly showed what was the feeling of their
53
AT VINCENNES, INDIANA.
hearts. They only wanted the opportunity to tomahawk the inhabitants and burn the town. Unfortunate people! their courage broken, their country lost, their numbers diminishing, starvation their present doom, and utter ex- tinction a speedy certainty.
At the well-known tavern of Colonel LaSalle, we quar- tered ourselves for some time, resting ourselves and horses, and looking at farms in the environs of the town. The great Wabash seemed to be the terminus of emigration. The people from the Eastern States, that were pouring in, chiefly found locations on the east bank of the Wabash, toward Terre Haute. Even here, where the river Wabash is the dividing line between Indiana and Illinois, nothing seemed to be known of the prairies, excepting the "trace," that is, the road or traveled way that crossed Illinois from Vincennes in Indiana, to St. Louis in Missouri. To ride that alone was then thought to be a perilous affair.
Here was a period to our progress. We had heretofore been traveling continuously, and every one of us had ex- hibited an alacrity in prosecuting our journey with singular perseverance and assiduity. Good - breeding and good tempers had ever prevailed. Each yielded his own to the comfort of others. Youth, which accepts present enjoy- ment and rejects fears for the future, had much to do with the buoyancy of spirits which seldom failed us. Six of our party were under twenty, three were under thirty, and one, although advanced to fifty-four, was active, intelligent, and strong. We were not an ordinary party of country folks; the men looking only for a rich piece of bottom- land, and the women for the best milk-cow. Mr. Birk-
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ENGLISH SETTLEMENT IN EDWARDS COUNTY.
beck's daughters, well-educated young ladies, of good sense and refinement, were most agreeable companions. Prudence, the youngest daughter, rather small and deli- cate, a brunette, with face and head of intelligence and character, her remarks were piquant, full of jest and mirth- enlivening conversation. Her elder sister Eliza, better grown and plump, with that fair-and-red English com- plexion so seldom seen here, was of graver mien and per- haps of deeper feeling, formed an agreeable contrast in conversation to the more lively sallies of her younger sis- ter. Miss Andrews, a little older, was in intellect and character more matured and of greater experience in life. As the head of her brother's house in London, her knowl- edge in household affairs and domestic economy was more perfect. Her intelligence and reading, and, above all, more general and frequent intercourse with good society, gave her a practical knowledge of life necessarily superior to those of her youthful companions.
With these agreeable ladies our time never hung heavy. Conversation never slacked, ennui was never known. If any one of us was detained by accident or indisposition, the hand of a kind female friend was ever extended for our relief. I don't think that any traveling party, consti- tuted as ours was, ever accomplished so much or pursued their journey and its objects, despite of its difficulties, with more perseverance than ours. I am sure none ever pre- served their tempers better, nor gave offices of kindness with more good-will, none could have a more sincere friendship and regard for each other, and none could enjoy each other's company more than we did.
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WHAT TOOK PLACE ON JOURNEY.
It is not surprising in a company so constituted and so situated, that feelings of attachment should have grown up with a strength and fervor perhaps unconscious to themselves. Whilst traveling, the daily business of the road occupied our attention. The care of the horses, the repair of their equipments, recording our day's travel, inquiries of the road in order to avoid its difficulties and dangers, gave full occupation to the men. To pack their saddle-bags, arrange their own bed, and procure little comforts for the whole party, which men seldom think of, but which our ladies ' never forgot, all to be done in our short halts, or after a whole day's ride, kept the mind and body in full occupation.
With bodily repose the mind becomes more active, and perhaps perception of the feelings becomes more distinct. We had felt the inconveniences of the sparcely -settled country we had passed over. Perhaps, as we stood on the vast uninhabited wilds we were soon to enter, an instinc- tive sense of individuality encountering its solitude and manifold labors, vaguely presented itself to each indi- vidual. A few words spoken from one person to another dissolved the happy charm which had hitherto surrounded us, and drew a veil from the eyes of many individuals of the party.
Mr. Birkbeck made an offer of marriage to Miss An- drews, and the feeling not being reciprocal, was respect- fully but decidedly declined, although urged by great strength of feeling. This incident, purely personal and, un- der other circumstances unimportant, disturbed somewhat our little party ; and even carried its influence to a distant
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ENGLISH SETTLEMENT IN EDWARDS COUNTY.
period. Some constraint and reserve now took the place of the free flow of expression and easy intercourse which had accompanied us during all our journey. Little eratic movements might be observed. The smoker would some- times take a long session in silence, and again throw down his cigar after the first whiff. One young lady would take two or three extra cups of tea; another would not touch a drop. Ominous symptoms. Avowals and explanations between individuals may be imagined but not described. For a short time, things were a little embarrassing.
I proposed for the hand of Miss Andrews, was accepted, and was subsequently married to her, at Vincennes, in 1817, at the house of Colonel LaSalle. The venerable Elihu Stout (who at a great age died last year), a jus- tice-of-the-peace, and editor of the only newspaper pub- lished at that time, was the officiating-magistrate. Present: Mr. Birkbeck, as father to the bride, and Mr. Elias Pym Fordham and Judge Blake as invited guests and witnesses.
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