USA > Illinois > Edwards County > History of the English settlement in Edwards County, Illinois : founded in 1817 and 1818, by Morris Birkbeck and George Flower > Part 21
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296
ENGLISH SETTLEMENT IN EDWARDS COUNTY.
mode. To bear the excessive heat of a summer's sun, over the exposed prairies, from early dawn till night, or, to reverse the order of our habits, to escape the torments of the prairie-fly, by traveling all night and lying by during the day; or to be overtaken by night in the midst of win- ter, crouching on the frozen ground, without fire or shelter, are incidents that try the constitution. But of all the dangers of backwoods-traveling, those of crossing swollen streams and river-bottoms deeply flooded, with the surface of the water covered with floating or with solid ice, are the greatest. To be floundering in water of uncertain depth, the horse sometimes wading and sometimes swim- ming, obstructed, too, by floating logs and ice, produces sensations not at all agreeable.
CHAPTER XIV.
Long Horseback Excursions-The Cabin Found-Island Grove-The Tempest-A Horrible Night-John Ganaway's Roadside-Cabin- A Good Breakfast-Hugh Ronalds' Adventure-Narrowly Es- capes Death-Long Journey by Wagon-The Delights of that Mode of Travel-Health and Spirits Renewed-Travel of that Day and the Present Day Contrasted-Mr. Hulme's Journey- Mr. Applegath's, Bishop Chase's, and Mr. Kleinworth's-The First Crops and Cabins-The Progress Year by Year-The Peach- Orchard-A Happy Life-Children Growing Up-"Edward's Or- chard "-The Herding of Sheep-The Boys and Girls-A Charm- ing Picture of Rural Life-The Hospitable Home-Lingering on the Porch-The Welcome Guests-The Lost Child-The Finding and the Rejoicings-The Wild Animals, Wolves, Bears, and Panthers-The Panther-The Wolf-Chase -Savage Fight be- tween Man and Wolf.
SOMETIMES, when not accompanied by gentlemen, my wife gave me her company in these horseback excursions into the interior of the State; and those journeys are, to this day, among the happiest recollections of my prairie life. One of these journeys is so characteristic of the time and country, as it then was, that I will give it :
Each of us well mounted, and equipped with well-filled saddle-bags, we started northward, on a fine July morning. For the first twenty miles, the country was settled thinly -six or eight miles between cabins. North of the trace, leading from Vincennes to St. Louis, the country was yet more thinly settled-from ten to twenty miles between
298 ENGLISH SETTLEMENT IN EDWARDS COUNTY.
house and house. We had difficulty in finding the little cabin we were in search of, for our first night's lodging, and but for a small column of blue smoke, betraying its locality in a small clump of brushwood, we should have passed it by. When found, it was of the smallest class of cabins. After a supper of corn-bread, milk, and venison, we rested for the night on one of the two beds, the whoel family taking to the other.
Before mounting, the next morning, we were struck with the occupation of our host. He was greasing his wagon with good fresh butter. He might as well do so, he said, for when he took it to Lawrenceville, ten miles distant, he could only get five cents a pound for it, and that in trade. After riding across a prairie for about twelve miles, our horses being much tormented by the prairie-flies, we rested for some hours at a house in a point of timber, the last timber we should meet in a day's journey. About five in the afternoon, we mounted again. The direction we trav- eled, with scarcely the indication of a track, was due north, keeping the timber about two miles to the right. A few miles ahead, and a little to our left, stood a grove of tim- ber, covering one section of land in the open prairie. It was appropriately called Island Grove.
Clouds, black and portentous, had been long threaten- ing. The rain came down in torrents. The north wind blew in our faces with such violence, that, for a time, the horses could not face the storm. We had to allow them to turn round. Pursuing our way northward, night over- took us. The feeble rays of a young moon added but dreariness to the scene. The wind, growing more and
299
PERILS OF TRAVEL.
more cold, pierced through our wet garments. It was about nine at night when we came to the track of the National Road, just being laid out and worked. This greatly relieved our anxious watchings; for we feared that we had passed over it, and were wandering north- ward in the interminable prairie. Following its course westward, we were suddenly arrested by a broad sheet of water, which we dared not enter and could not go round.
The moon set. We were in darkness. Wet through, exposed to a keen north-wind, without the slightest shel- ter, we stood by the side of our horses and waited the termination of this dreary night. I, at length, yielded to sleep, on the wet and sodden ground. My wife, with greater resolution, kept watch on foot, holding the horses' bridles in her hand, sometimes putting her fingers under the saddles to catch a little warmth, and sometimes wak- ing me from what she feared might be a fatal slumber. One sound only was heard during these hours of dreary darkness, the dismal howl of a solitary wolf. At break-of- day, so stiff and cold were we, that we could with difficulty mount our horses. Both ourselves and horses shook and trembled as with an ague.
We had to proceed about six miles, through mud and water, before reaching a small roadside-cabin, kept by John Ganaway. A good breakfast, and two hours sleep, set all to rights, and we proceeded on our way, none the worse for our late exposure. Such incidents were of com- mon occurrence to travelers on the prairies in those days.
These encounters with the elements were not always so happily got through, especially in the winter season. Mr.
300 ENGLISH SETTLEMENT IN EDWARDS COUNTY.
Hugh Ronalds and his young son were traveling on the prairies, about thirty miles north-west of Albion, with a covered carriage and a pair of horses, in the winter season. On coming to a creek frozen over, in attempting to cross on the ice, the horses broke in; but the ice was too strong and the creek to deep to allow the horses to get through. It was necessary to detach the horses from the carriage, and to break the ice, to allow the horses to struggle out on the opposite bank; in doing which, Mr. Ronalds became wet to his middle. Before he could arrange the harness on the horses, his clothes became quite stiff, his legs seemed to be incased in boards. A house near the creek, the view of which was an additional inducement to risk the crossing, was found to be entirely deserted. No fire or the means of making any. Under these circumstances, it became a struggle for life. Mr. Ronalds, becoming weak from cold and suffering, desired his son (a lad of nine years) to make for a house, about three miles across.the prairie, and send back aid if he should arrive there. He, with aid of men and women, returned and met his father. Mr. Ronalds proceeded at a slow pace with the horses. He soon became insensible. When met by the party from the house, he was standing between the horses, hold- ing on by the harness, but nearly insensible and very numb. Covering him with blankets, and carrying him when he could no longer walk, they arrived at the cabin and put him to bed, stiff and unconscious. It was long before friction and warmth induced circulation or sign of life. The process of freezing, or dying, was attended by no remembered pain; but, in returning to life, he suffered much agony.
-
TRAVEL IN THE OLDEN TIME.
301
If a family party desired to make a journey of some distance-say two or three hundred miles-a wagon was found to be the most safe and comfortable conveyance. Wishing to visit a friend who had settled a few miles north of Peoria, on the Illinois River, more than two hundred miles distant from Park House, an old friend and neigh- bor, Capt. James Carter, wishing to see the country north, accompanied us, brought with him a wagon and a pair of oxen, to which I added another yoke. This was furnished with provisions and cooking-utensils, and some bedding. My own covered wagon, drawn by two stout and active horses, with a driver sitting on the near saddle-horse, con- veyed my family, two sons and one daughter, with Mrs. Flower, and an infant at her breast. Two saddle-horses, one furnished with a side-saddle, for any of us to ride by way of change, completed our cavalcade. Proceeding thus leisurely along, we passed over some of the most beautiful prairies in the centre of the State. Pulling up at evening near some pleasant grove, we lighted our camp-fire and cooked our evening meal. As the evening advanced, we spread our blankets on the ground, and with feet to the fire took our night's rest. Breakfast over next morning, we proceeded onward through the day. A fresh venison ham, milk from some farm-house, or a prairie fowl, occa- sionally shot by one of the party, gave us the most whole- some and invigorating food. Including our short visit, we were six weeks going and returning, living day and night during our journey in the open air. The fine autumn weather continued with us until the last day of our return. On the afternoon of that day we were ushered into my
302 ENGLISH SETTLEMENT IN EDWARDS COUNTY.
own park gate by a gust of sleet and rain. We all returned with renewed health and spirits. Nothing can be imagined more enjoyable or was better enjoyed. The freedom from care, the gentle exercise in the open air, the ever-changing scene, the varied beauties of the landscape, gave renewed health, appetite, and happiness. On entering my park and pleasant dwelling, I confess to a feeling of approaching care. All had gone well during our absence. But letters were to answer, business to attend to, my wife had her household cares. We were again in harness, performing the drudgery of civilized life. These three journeys give a fair specimen of the primitive mode of traveling in the early years of our Settlement in Illinois.
The difference in speed and convenience of travel then and now is very striking. The mean time of travel for family parties from the Eastern cities to the prairies, in the year 1818, I find to be nine weeks-that is for the whole family or parties, composed sometimes of two or three families, with all their plunder. One of the most expedi- tious and economical family-trips on record was made by Mr. Hall and his family, consisting of himself, wife, and seven children. The items are therefore interesting : Hire of wagon from Philadelphia to Pittsburgh, for wife and seven children, -
- $75
Expenses for twelve persons, Thomas and myself walking all the way, for thirteen days, -
- 42
Carriage of eleven hundred of heavy goods, at $3 per 100 lbs., - 33 - - - Tavern expenses at Pittsburgh, I week, - 20 Share of ark, I 5
MR. HULME, MR. APPLEGATH, AND OTHERS. 303
Three days in the ark and expenses to Shawneetown, 18 Three days in ark at Shawneetown, - -
- 9 Wagon-hire for the family and baggage to the prairies, - - - -
-
- 28
- 14 Expenses four days and ferriages, - - -
For heavy goods up the Wabash and land-carriage from thence, -
- - 15
$269
Time from May 7th to June 25th.
Mr. Hulme, who visited our Settlement, and going by the quickest mode of travel, in his journal writes thus: "Pittsburgh, June 3 .- Arrived here with a friend as travel- ing-companion, by the mail-stage from Philadelphia, after a journey of six days, having set out on the 28th of May."
Mr. Applegath, in 1823, arrived at Vincennes from the city of Baltimore in ten days, then thought to be very expe- ditious traveling. In 1859, Bishop Whitehouse reached Olney, Illinois, from New York, in two days and a-half, by railroad. Olney is thirty miles north of Albion, connected by a daily mail-stage. In August, 1860, Mr. Kleinworth arrived at his residence in Albion in thirteen days and a- half, from the city of London. Mr. Kleinworth lost one day and a-half by detention on the road, so that the time of his actual travel was but twelve days. . I recollect what a visionary I was thought thirty years ago for saying that we were, at a moderate rate of traveling, but three days distant from New York. Now that prediction is more than verified, for when no impediment occurs the distance has been made in less than two days.
304 ENGLISH SETTLEMENT IN EDWARDS COUNTY.
The first two years of settlement in a new prairie coun- try does not present the abundance in the field crops that new-comers expect to see from the accounts they have heard of the fertility of the soil. The first year's planting on a prairie sod yields not a-third of a crop. The second year is much better, but it is not until the third year that cultivation and seasons have sufficiently acted on the soil to allow it to yield its full abundance. The houses and cabins present too often a naked and somewhat comfort- less appearance, unless a little industry and taste is dis- played in training flowers and creeping-plants around them. The rich and venerable mellowness of ivy and moss will not be attained for centuries. But the virgin soil and hot sun, with the least aid from an industrious hand, will soon give floral ornament and cosy comfort that can not be attained about a house in cooler climates for many years.
We had long left behind us the inconveniences and annoyances incident to first-settlers, and were enjoying the teeming abundance of a virgin soil under its first cultiva- tion, stimulated by a glowing climate. Nothing could gratify the farmer more than to witness the progress of his crops, for the first fifteen years on the same fields without aid of manure. The deep green of the maize, in its gigan- tic and rapid growth, almost outstretching the capacity of its own fibres in its vigorous shoots and rapid growth, suc- ceeded, in time of harvest, by large heavy ears, sometimes more than a hundred bushels to the acre, and wagon-loads of yellow pumpkins growing among the rows. Cattle increasing and thriving in condition in the range more
305
A PLEASING RETROSPECT.
rapidly than in the finest clover pasture, was surprising to farmers from the cool and gradual climate of England.
On my farm, the profuse bearing of a large peach- orchard, the third year from planting the stones, surprised and gratified me. Among these seedling-trees, many pro- duced fruit of large size and exquisite flavor. I turned a few of my favorite English pigs into this orchard. It was amusing to see the gluttons as they slowly walked along, giving to an ordinary peach a contemptuous turn with their little snouts, not deigning to taste one unripe or deficient in flavor. They, like ourselves, were sated with the fruit, scores of bushels lying rotting on the ground. The two following years were equally bountiful. One hard winter killed many and diseased the remainder of the trees, until at length I could not gather a peck of peaches from the farm.
I have said that I lived in a world of my own, and not a bad world either. My life seemed particularly felicitous. Based on domestic happiness, and surrounded by abund- ance. My children, as they grew up, taking their part of the care of the animals. At first, the two eldest boys, after an early breakfast, provided by their mother, took with them dinner, books, and slate, and led the fine merino flock, varying in number from four hundred to a thousand, into the prairie, where they stayed the whole day. As the family grew larger, a sister often went with the brothers. A small log-house, with overhanging porch andifaccommo- dations for their horses and dogs, was built for them on a pleasant hill overlooking the prairie, close]by an apple- orchard, just coming into bearing, planted by my young-
20
306
ENGLISH SETTLEMENT IN EDWARDS COUNTY.
est brother Edward before he went to England. Although passed into other hands, the spot is called Edward's Orchard unto this dạy.
During the heat of the day, whilst the flocks were repos- ing in the shade of the clumps of oaks, the children were resting in the cabin, or, unconscious of fatigue and defying heat, were chasing, with their horses and their dogs, some rabbit on the prairie or wildcat in a neighboring thicket. Thus, with their little house-keeping establishment, useful employment in the open air, cheerful amusement with their horses and their dogs, and freedom from restraint, they had a good time generally. Now no longer children, but fathers and mothers of families, with the cares and anxieties incident to their stations, they look back to this period as the happiest of their lives. At evening, one of their number came to the house to announce the arrival of the flock at the park gate. Myself or shepherd, if he was in the way, went to count them in. . The children, relieved of their charge, came joyously in, bringing rabbit or squir- rel or some trophy of the chase. After refreshment and rest, as day closed in, the young ones all sunk to sound and happy slumber.
In a fine summer's night, the house and its surroundings presented a picture of quietude and peace, enjoyed by my- self and wife, walking together, as we sometimes did, in the early hours of the night, when all nature, in shadow, was reposing in silence. The beautiful cattle, as they quietly chewed the cud, allowed us to pass through them undisturbed. The flock of sheep, lying close together in one large clump, would begin to rise as we approached
307
THE LOST CHILD.
them, in accordance with their more timid nature. The refreshing coolness, the profound silence, the repose and security of the animals, with the shadow of night cast over all, was by every feeling acknowledged as a grateful relief, from the glare, the heat, and turmoil of day.
Returning to the house, and once more gazing on the children in their deep, unconscious sleep, we would often, while conversing in subdued tones, linger long in the wide porch, enjoying together the sweetest hours of the twenty- four. More frequently we had some company at the house; this being the rule, privacy the exception, was the more enjoyed. Occasionally, a party of neighbors would spend the evening with us, but my home was frequently graced and enlivened by one or more intelligent strangers, either native or foreign born, and this adds to a home in the country a fresh light of intelligence and cheerfulness, and breaks the bond of prejudice, which grows too stiff in a confined locality. To diversify and vary life, a few adventures, incidents, and accidents occurred to us, only to be met with by settlers in a new country.
Mr. Dransfield, living about eight miles from Albion, on the road to the Wabash, missed one of his children, about three years of age. Search was made by the parents, through all the out-premises and in the woods round about the house, to no effect. The next day, we heard of it at Albion, and the news spread to the farmers and settle- ments for miles around. On the following morning, neigh- bors, as they were called, assembled for ten miles round. After searching the surrounding woods in vain, fifty horse- men determined to search French-Creek Prairie, a long
308
ENGLISH SETTLEMENT IN EDWARDS COUNTY.
narrow prairie, about four miles long and scarcely a-half- mile broad. The horsemen formed a line at short intervals from each other, examining every inch of the ground as they slowly passed along. In a blackberry patch, one of the horsemen saw a little white rag flutter; he rode up, and there was the child standing, but looking rather scared. A long, loud whoop, along the whole line of horsemen, announced the discovery of the child. The little one was soon in the arms of its parents, and suffered no inconveni- ence from its long exposure.
From wild animals, although destructive to our flocks and herds, we had no personal encounters or attacks. Chastised by the arrows of the Indians and the bullets of the backwoodsmen, they fly instinctively from the pres- ence of man. Wolves, bears, and panthers, the two latter in small numbers, are but rarely seen. But the large grey and black wolf were felt as a severe scourge for many years. They devoured great numbers of pigs, sheep, and calves. First and last, I have lost more than three hun- dred valuable sheep from those fellows, besides the care, trouble, and expense they put me to in watching the flocks. It is rather a singular fact, that the last wolf known to have come into the Settlement, killed my last sheep. For thirty years, these vermin made incessant war upon me. My successors in sheep-keeping have one enemy the less to encounter than I had.
I once had six large black wolves keeping me closer company than I liked, in a lonely prairie, whilst driving in a buggy. We had reciprocal fear of each other, and no collision took place. As late as 1830, a panther showed
309
FIGHT WITH A BLACK WOLF.
himself within a few yards of my house, under the follow- ing circumstances. I was from home. A favorite pig, of a choice breed, was missed. A young hired lad and two or three of the children went in search. A rustling in a bramble-patch attracted attention. Mrs. Flower, who had joined the children, I think, in parting the brambles to look in, was startled by some animal rushing out. It sprung upon the fence, rested for a second or two, and then bounded away. "Look at the tail," said the lad; and, in his astonishment, fortunately, forgot to fire, or fatal consequences might have followed. A wounded panther always turns upon its assailants.
One adventure with a large black wolf, from its singu- larity, may bear to be related. A friend of mine, with a companion, were riding together in a large open prairie, one hot summer's day. On one side of them the wood was four miles distant, on the other three. As they rode up a steep and grassy mound, a wolf was coming up on the other side. Both wolf and horsemen met on the top with equal surprise, no doubt; for both parties came to a sudden halt, gazing at each other. In a moment, the wolf was making off for the nearest woods, with the horsemen after him at full speed. They soon overtook him, and attempted to ride him down. But the horses, perhaps from an instinctive fear of his fangs, would never step upon him. In this way they continued the chase for a long time. At length, the wolf, exhausted and faint, lay down. My friend dismounted to dispatch him by a blow on the head from his heavily-loaded whip. The horse, free from restraint and made frantic by the flies, galloped
·
310 ENGLISH SETTLEMENT IN EDWARDS COUNTY.
away; my friend's companion riding after, endeavoring to catch him and bring him back. My friend was now alone with the wolf. As he raised his arm, to give the fatal blow, the wolf sprang to his feet, with his bristles erect, showing all his terrible fangs. Not liking the encounter, my friend, stepping backward, endeavored to retreat. Wolf would allow of no retreat, but springing at the throat of the man, was knocked down by a blow from the heavily- loaded whip. Three times were these attacks given and received, by wolf and man. At the last blow given, the load in the handle of the whip fell out. My friend was now without weapon. With great presence of mind, he threw himself upon the wolf, seizing him by the nape of the neck with one hand; and throwing upon him the whole weight of his body, both came to the ground, man on top, still grasping him fast by the skin of his neck. Such was the strength of the wolf, that he rose up with the weight of the man upon him, walking and staggering along, until the disengaged hand of the man pulled up one of his legs, and threw him again. This struggle between wolf and man, with alternate advantage, con- tinued some time, until the companion returned with both horses. For a time they were at a loss, being destitute of all weapons. At last a small penknife was found, with which the wolf was bled to death, by severing his neck- vein-my friend holding on like grim death to the last moment, his face, in the struggle, often coming in dis- agreeable proximity to the jaws of the wolf.
CHAPTER XV.
Marriage Certificates- Average Cost of Marriage-Erecting Log- Houses-Farmers Trading down the Mississippi-English Farm- Laborers become Substantial Farmers and Merchants in the English Settlement-Death of Richard Flower-His Character- istics-Frequent Festivities and Family Reunions at his House -The Ancestors of the Flowers-Mrs. Richard Flower-The Buckinghamshire Party of Emigrants Arrive-German Families Come in-The Yorkshire Men-Good Pork and Beef at Albion -The Last Ship's - Party Arrive-Travelers Visiting the Settle- ment-Mr. Hulme-Mr. Welby writes an Abusive Book-Mr. Fearon writes about the Settlement, but never saw It-The Thompsons-Mr. Stewart an Edinboro' Man-Mr. D. Constable, the Man with a Knapsack and a Cane-An Admirable Charac- ter-Good accomplished by Mr. Constable-Sir Thomas Beevoir and Lady Beevoir visit Albion-The Beevoir Family in England -The Aristocracy of England not a Degenerate Race-Lord Frederick's Sermon-The American Clock-Peddler-Defamatory Books Published in England-Constitution for a Library-Albion in 1822 and 1860-Its Peculiar Characteristics-No Printing -Press, no Bank, no Lawyer for Thirty Years-Log-Cabins give way to Comfortable Dwellings-Town and County Affairs-The Steady March of Improvement in the Settlement-A Bank Established in Albion-Two Lawyers settle there-The Doctors-Joel Churchill, the "Poor Man's Friend"-Cotton grown in the Settlement at one Time-Limits of the English Settlement-Never any Quar- rels between the English and Americans-Projected Railroads -The Southern Cross Railroad bought by Gen. Pickering-Solid Prosperity enjoyed by the Settlement-Annoyances by Insects- The "Tires."
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