USA > Louisiana > Historical collections of Louisiana : embracing translations of many rare and valuable documents relating to the natural, civil and political history of that state > Part 21
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From the time that they put out of Rio Grande to the sea, at their departure from Florida, until they arrived in the river of Pa- muco, was fifty-two days. They came into the river of Panuco the tenth of September, 1543. They went up the river with their brig- antines. They traveled four days; and because the wind was but little, and many times it served them not because of the many turn- ings which the river maketh, and the great current drawing them up by towing, and that in many places; for this cause they made very little way and with great labor; and seeing the execution of their de- sire to be deferred, which was to come among Christians, and to see the celebration of divine service, which so long time they had not seen, they left the brigantines with the mariners, and went by land to Panuco. All of them were appareled in deers' skins tanned and dyed black, to wit, coats, hose, and shoes. When they came to l'a- muco, presently they went to the church to pray and give God thanks that so miraculously had saved them. The townsmen which before were advertised by the Indians, and knew of their arrival, carried some of them to their houses, and entertained them whom they knew and had acquaintance of, or because they were their countrymen. The Alcalle Mayor took the Governor home to his house: and com- manded all the rest, as soon as they came, to be lodged six and six and ten and ten, according to the ability of every townsman. And all of them were provided for by their hosts of many bens, and bread of maize, and fruits of the country, which are such as be in the Isle of Cuba, whereof before T have spoken. The town of Panuco may con- tain about seventy families; the most of their houses are of lime and
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EXPEDITION OF HERNANDO DE SOTO.
stone, and some made of timber, and all of them are thatched. It is a poor country, and there is neither gold nor silver in it. The inhabitants live there in great abundance of victuals and servants. The richest · have not above five hundred crowns rent a year, and that is in cotton cloths, hens, and maize, which the Indians their servants do give them for tribute. There arrived there of those that came out of Florida, three hundred and eleven Christians. Presently the Alcalde Mayor sent one of the townsmen in post to advertise the Viceroy, Don Antonio de Mendoça, which was resident in Merico, that of the people that went with Don Ferdinando de Soto to discover and con- quer Florida three hundred and eleven men were arrived there, that seeing that they were employed in his majesty's service he would take some order to provide for them. Whereat the Viceroy, and all the inhabitants of Mexico wondered; for they thought they were mis- carried because they had traveled so far within the main land of Flo- rida, and had no news of them for so long a time : and it seemed a wonderful thing unto them, how they could save themselves so long among infidels, without any fort, wherein they might fortify them- selves, and without any other succor at all. Presently the Viceroy sent a warrant wherein he commanded, that whithersoever they sent they should give them victuals, and as many Indians for their car- riages as they needed : and where they would not furnish them, they might take those things that were necessary perforce without incur- ring any danger of law. This warrant was so readily obeyed that by the way before they came to the towns they came to receive them with hens and victuals.
From Panuco to the great city of Temistitan, Mexico, is sixty leagues; and other sixty from Panuco to the port de Vera Cruz, where they take shipping for Spain, and those that come from Spain do land to go for Nucca España. These three towns stand in a tri. angle : to wit, Vera Cruz to the south, Panuco to the north, and Mexico to the west sixty leagues asunder. The country is so inhabited with Indians that from town to town those which are farthest are but a league and half a league asunder. Some of them that came from Florida stayed a month in Pumwo to rest themselves, others fifteen days, and every one as long as he listed : for there was none that showed a sour countenance to his guests, but rather gave them anything that they had, and seemed to be grieved when they took their leave. Which was to be believed ; for the vietuals which the Indians do pay them for tribute, are more than they can spend: and in that town is no commerce; and there dwelt but few Spaniards there, and they were
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HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS OF LOUISIANA.
glad of their company. The Alcalde Mayor divided all the Emperor's clothes which he had (which there they pay him' for his tribute) among those that would come to receive them. Those which had shirts of mail left were glad men; for they had a horse for one shirt . of mail. Some horsed themselves; and such as could not (which were the greatest part) took their journey on foot : in which they were well received of the Indians that were in the towns, and better served than they could have been in their own houses, though they had been well to live. For if they asked one hen of an Indian, they brought them four : and if they asked any of the country fruit though it were a league off, they ran presently for it. And if any Christian found himself evil at ease, they carried him in a chair from one town to another. In whatsoever town they came, the cacique, by an In- dian which carried a rod of justice in his hand, whom they call Tapile, that is to say a sergeant, commanded them to provide victuals for them, and Indians to bear burdens of such things as they had, and such as were needful to carry them that were sick. The Viceroy sent a Portuguese twenty leagues from Mexico, with great store of sugar, raisins of the sun, conserves, and other things fit for sick folks, for such as bad need of them : and had given order to clothe them all at the Emperor's charge. And their approach being known by the citi- zens of Mexico, they went out of the town to receive them : and with great courtesy, requesting them in favor to come to their houses, every one carried such as he met home with him, and clothed them every one the best they could : so that he that had the meanest apparel, it cost about thirty ducats. As many as were willing to come to the Viceroy's house he commanded to be appareled, and such as were per- sons of quality sate at his tablo: and there was a table in his house for as many of the meaner sort as would come to it : and he was pre- sently informed who every one was, to show him the courtesy that he deserved. Some of the conquerors did set both gentlemen and clowns at their own table, and many times made the servant sit cheek by cheek by his master : and chiefly the officers and men of base condi- tion did so : for those which had better education did inquire who every one was, and made difference of persons : but all did what they could with a good will : and every one told them whom they had in their house, that they should not trouble themselves, nor think them- selves the worse, to take that which they gave them: for they had been in the like case, and had been relieved of others, and that this was the custom of that country. God reward them all: and God grant that those which it pleased him to deliver out of Florido, aud
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EXPEDITION OF HERNANDO DE SOTO.
to bring again into Christendom, may serve him: and unto those that died in that country, and unto all that believe in Him and confess his holy faith, God for his mercy's sake grant the kingdom of heaven. Amen.
From the Port de Spiritu Santo, where they landed when they entered into Florida, to the Province of Ocute, which may be 400 leagues, little more or less, is a very plain country, and has many lakes and thick woods, and in some places they are of wild pine-trees ; and is a weak soil. There is in it neither mountain nor hill. The country of Ocute is more fat and fruitful; it has thinner woods, and very goodly meadows upon the rivers. From Ocute to Cutifachiqui may be 130 leagues : 80 leagues thereof are desert, and have many groves of wild pine trees. Through the wilderness great rivers do pass. From Cutifachiqui to Xuala, may be 250 leagues: it is all an hilly country. Cutifachiqui and Xuala stand both in plain ground, high, and have goodly meadows on the rivers. From thence forward to Chiaha, Coca, and Talise, is plain ground, dry and fat, and very plentiful of maize. From Xuala to Tascaluca may be 250 leagues. From Tascaluga to Rio Grande, or the Great River, may be 300 leagues : the country is low, and full of lakes. From Rio Grande forward, the country is higher and more champaign, and best peopled of all the land of Florida. And along this river from Aquito to Pacaha, and Coligou, are 150 leagues : the country is plain, and the woods thin, and in some places champaign, very fruitful and pleasant. From Coligou to Autiamque are 250 leagues of hilly country. From Autiumque to Aguacay, may be 280 leagues of plain ground. From Aguacay to the river of Daycao 120 leagues, all hilly country.
From the Port de Spiritu Santo unto Apalache, they traveled. from cast to west, and northwest. From Cutifachigni to Kuala from south to north. From Xuala to Coca from east to west. From Coca to Tascaluca, and to Rio Grande, as far as the provinces of Quizqui: and Aquiro, from east to west. From Aquixo to Pacaha to the north. From Pacaha to Tulla from cast to west : from Tulla to .lutiumque from north to south, to the province of Cauchoya and Daycao.
The bread which they ate in all the land of Florida is of maize, which is like coarse millet. And this maize is common in all the islands, and from the Antilles forward. There are also in Florile great store of walnuts, planas, untilberries, and grapes. They sow and gather their maize every one their several crop. The fruits are common to all, for they grow abroad in the open fields in great abundance, with-
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HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS OF LOUISIANA.
out any need of planting or dressing. Where there be mountains, there be chestnuts; they are somewhat smaller than the chestnuts of Spain. From Rio Grande westward, the walnuts differ from those that grow more eastward ; for they are soft, and like unto acorns; and those which grow from Rio Grande to Puerto del Spiritu Santo for the most part are hard; and the trees and walnuts in show like those of Spain. There is a fruit through all the country which groweth on a plant like Ligoacan, which the Indians do plant. The fruit is like unto Peares Riall; it has a very good smell, and an excellent taste. There groweth another plant in the open field, which beareth a fruit like unto strawberries, close to the ground, which has a very good taste. The plums are of two kinds, red and gray, of the making and bigness of nuts, and have three or four stones in them. These are better than all the plums of Spain, and they make far better prunes of them. In the grapes there is only want of dressing ; for though they be big, they have a great kernel. All other fruits are very per- fect, and less hurtful than those of Spain.
There are in Florida many bears and lions, wolves, deer, dogs, . cats, martens, and conies. There be many wild hens as big as turkeys, partridges small, like those of Africa, cranes, ducks, pigeons, thrushes, and sparrows. There are certain black birds bigger than sparrows, and lesser than stares. There are goshawks, falcons, gerfalcons, and all fowls of prey that are in Spain.
The Indians are well proportioned. Those of the plain countries are taller of body, and better shapen, than those of the mountains. Those of the inland have greater store of maize, and commodities of the country, than those that dwell upon the sea-coast. The country along the sea-coast is barren and poor, and the people more warlike. The coast runneth from Puerto del Spiritu Santo to Apaluche, cast and west ; and from Apalache to Rio de las Palmas from cast to west ; from Rio de las Palmas unto Nusra España from north to south. It is a gentle coast, but it hath many shoals, and great shelves of sand.
Deo gratias.
.
A
DESCRIPTION
OF THE
ENGLISH PROVINCE OF CAROLANA,
BY THE SPANIARDS CALLED FLORIDA,
AND BY THE FRENCH
LA LOUISIANE.
AS ALSO OF THE GREAT AND FAMOUS RIVER
MESCHIACEBE OR MISSISSIPPI,
THE FIVE VAST NAVIGABLE LAKES OF FRESH WATER,
AND THE PARTS ADJACENT.
TOGETHER WITH
AN ACCOUNT OF THE COMMODITIES OF THE GROWTH AND PRODUCTION OF THE SAID PROVINCE.
· BY DANIEL COXE.
A. DESCRIPTION
OF THE
ENGLISH PROVINCE OF CAROLANA,
BY THE SPANIARDS CALLED FLORIDA,
AND BY THE FRENCH
LA LOUISIANE .*
CAROLANA and Carolina are two distinct though bordering pro- vinces, the east of Carolana joining to the west of Carolina. The former was granted by patent unto Sir Robert Heath, in the begin- ning of the reign of King Charles I., which said Sir Robert was then Attorney-General, and by him conveyed unto the Earl of Arundel, from whom it came by mean' conveyances unto the present propri- etary.
This province of Carolana is extended north and south from the river St. Mattheo, lying according to the patent in thirty-one degrees (though by later and more accurate observations, it is found to lie ex- actly in thirty degrees and ten minutes) unto the river Passo Magno, which is in thirty-six degrees of northern latitude ; and in longitude from the Western or Atlantic Ocean unto New Mexico, now in pos- session of the Spaniards, which is in a direct line above one thousand miles, and where not inhabited by them, unto the South Sea. It comprebends within its bounds, the greatest part of the province of Carolina, whose proprietors derive their claim and pretensions thereto,
* This account of Louisiana has been very carefully drawn up from Memoirs and Journals kept by various persons sent into the Valley of the Mississippi, by D. Coxe. The expedition fitted out by him, consisting of two ships, commanded by Capt. Barr, were the first to sail up the Mississippi. (1598.)
224- CK HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS OF LOUISIANA.
by charters from King Charles II. about thirty years after the above- mentioned grant to Sir Robert Heath.
The great River Meschacebe runs through the midst of this country, having a course almost directly north and south from its first fountains, in about fifty degress of north latitude, to its disemboguing into the middle of the Gulf of Mexico. The rivers that make this, which the Spaniards called Rio Grande del Norte, procced about one-half from the west, the other from the cast, so that the whole country may be almost entirely visited by navigable rivers, without any falls or cataracts, which are usual in most of the northern rivers of America, and in all rivers of long course, even in Carolina (though to this country contiguous), and thence northward to the great river of St. Lawrence or Canada, and other rivers northward innumerable. The excellent and convenient situation of this country for inland trade and navigation, and for trade with the Spaniards in New Mexico, the whole Gulf of Mexico, and the South Sea (which I shall hereafter demon- strate), will be greatly for the advantage, and not in the least to the prejudice of our home plantation trade, as will appear more evident by the description of this great River Meschacebe, and those rivers that enter into it, together with the vast navigable lakes of fresh water adjoining thereunto.
We will for good reasons begin our description of it from its en- trance into the sea, ascending up unto its source; and from very good journals both by sea and land, give an account of the chief rivers that run into it from the east and west, as we find them in our ascent, to- gether with their course, length and bigness, the nature of the coun- tries, and the names of the nations through which they pass.
The River Meschacebe is so called by the inhabitants of the north ; cebe being the name for a river, even as far as Hudson's Bay; and mescha, great, which is the Great River; and by the French, who learned it from them, corruptly, Mississippi; which name of Mescha- cebe it doth retain among the savages during half its course. After- wards some call it Chucagua, others Sassagoula, and Malabanchia, as it fares with the Danubius, which four hundred miles before it enters the Euxine Sea, is styled the Iser; and the like happens to all the rivers of long course in America, as Oronogne, the river of the Ama- zons, and Rio de la Plata. This river enters the Gulf of Mexico one hundred and forty leagues from the north-west part of the peninsula of Florida, keeping along the coast in thirty degrees north latitude, and one hundred and twenty leagues from the most westerly part of
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225
COXE'S (LOUISIANA) CAROLANA.
the said gulf, in about twenty-nine degrees the same latitude; and thence the coast extends S. and by W. to the river Panuco, which is under the tropic of Cancer in twenty-three and a half degrees, the utmost part inhabited by the Spaniards towards the N. and N. E. on the Gulf of Mexico.
The province of Carolana, from the conjunction with the peninsula of Florida, for two hundred and fifty leagues, is situated about the thirtieth degree of north latitude, and seldom varies ten leagues north or south from the same; excepting the entrance of the river Meschacebe, which I am now about to describe from the mouth unto its first fountains.
The river Meschacebe empties itself into the Gulf of Mexico by seven channels, like the river Nile, of which Herodotus, the father of history, and who lived long in Egypt, affirms in his time three were always navigable, and the others only so during the inundations of the said river, which were made by art and labor, though our moderr navigators allow only two; but our river hath seven navigable at all times; the three great ones by ships, the four smaller, two on cach side (as appears by the chart), by boats and sloops, especially during the time of the waters rising, or the freshes, as they call them, which? are always constant, and return in the spring, and sometimes happen in the summer upon the great rains, which is not frequent.
The three great branches always navigable by shipping are situated about six miles distant from each other, and unite all at one place with the main river, about twelve miles from their mouths.
There is not above fourteen feet on the bar at low-water in neer- tides, excepting when the freshes come down in the spring or upon great rains; but when you are over the bar, which is not in many places above a ship's length broad, you enter immediately into decp water the least five fathom, which increases to ten fathom before you come to the main river. After that it deepens gradually to above thirty, and you have nowhere less than twenty fathoms for one hundred miles, and little less for one hundred leagues, and afterwards from ten to seventeen for one hundred leagues more : then from six to ten two hundred leagues further; thence to the great cataract or fall. which is sixteen hundred miles from its entrance into the sea, from three fathoms to six. Its breadth is generally during its great depth scarce a mile, but as it lessens in depth it increases in breadth, and is in most places of its course two miles broad, and where it makes islands (as it does very frequently), from the middle of its course two or three leagues. The banks in most places are no more than five or
16
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HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS OF LOUISIANA.
six feet above the river, and ships may almost in all places lie by the side of the shore, there being generally from three to six fathoms, and deepens gradually as you approach the middle of the river, which has mostly a pretty strong current; but there are divers promontories, under which you may anchor, where there is good shelter from winds and curious eddy-tides.
When you are ascended the river four or five leagues, it is bordered on each side with high trees of divers sorts, front half a mile to two miles deep into the country; very little underwoods; no trouble in traveling, besides what proceeds from the vines ramping upon the ground. Divers others surround and mount up the trees, almost unto their tops, which are seldom less than one hundred feet from their roots, and often thirty or forty feet more. When you come out of the agreeable shade, you see a most beautiful level country, only about six or eight miles distance; there are collins or gentle ascents, for the most part round or oval, crowned with stately trees, which looks more like a work of laborious consummate art than of mere na- ture; and this on both sides the river, so far as the acutest sight can reach ; in which meadows the wild bulls and kine, besides other beasts, graze, and in the heat of the day retire into these woods for shelter, where they chew the eud.
There is no considerable river empties itself into the Meschacebe from the mouths until you come about twelve miles above the Bayo- gola and Mougolaches, two nations who dwell together on the west side thereof, two hundred miles from the sea; then on the east side there falls out of the Meschacebe a branch which after a course of one hundred and sixty miles empties itself into the N. E. end of the great Bay of Spirito Santo. It is not above forty or fifty yards broad and two or three fathoms deep at its beginning, but soon enlarges in breadth and depth by the accession of divers rivers and rivulets, and is a most lovely river, making pleasant lakes, and passing, during its whole course, through a country exactly like that we have formerly described. It is navigable by the greatest boats, sloops, and small ships of English building ; and by large ones if built after the Dutch manner with flat bottoms.
On the north side of one of the above-mentioned lakes, called by the French Lake Pontchartrain, they have erected a small fort, and store- houses, whither after unloading their large vessels at Iste aux Vais- scaux, or Ship's Island, they bring their goods in sloops or shallops, and from thence disperse them by their traders amongst their own settlements and the several nations of Indians inhabiting on and about
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227
COXE'S (LOUISIANA) CAROLANA.
the Meschacebe, and the rivers which enter it, both from the east and west.
About fifty miles above the place where this river is dismissed from the Meschacebe, on the other side, viz., the west, enters the river of the Houmas (Red River), so named from a considerable nation who inhabit upon it in the country, six or eight miles from its mouth. This is a mighty river, deep and broad, and comes from the mountains of New Mexico; its course is mostly N. W., and is navigable by large vessels above three hundred miles, and thence by large boats and sloops, almost unto its fountains. By this river, you may have com- munication with above forty nations who live upon it or its branches ; and also with the Spaniards of New Mexico, from whom its furthest heads are not above an easy day's journey. Upon this river and most of its branches are great herds of wild kine, which bear a fine wool, and abundance of horse, both wild and tame, of the Spanish breed, on which the Indians ride with almost as much skill as the Europeans, though their bridles, saddles and stirrups are somewhat different from ours, yet not the less commodious.
Twelve leagues higher upon the river Meschacebe is the river of the Naches (Washita), which ten or twelve leagues above its mouth divides itself into two branches, and forms an island (Sicily) about thirty miles in circumference, very pleasant and fertile. The south branch is inhabited by the Corroas, the north by the Naches, both considerable nations, abounding in all necessaries for human life. Sonre leagues above the division is a pretty large lake ('Tensas), where there is a great fishery for pearl, large and good, taken out of a shell- fish of a middle nature between an oyster and a muscle.
About twelve or fourteen leagues higher on the same, that is, the west side, the Meschacebe makes a little gulf (Petit Gulf) about twenty miles long and three or four broad, upon which inhabit in many towns the populous and civilized nation of the Tahensa (Taensas), who also abound in pearls, and enjoy an excellent country; are very hospi- table to strangers, and though, as most .Indian nations, at war with their neighbors, yet together with the three Jast mentioned, and those to be hereafter named, joyfully receive and kindly entertain all with whom they have not actual hostilities.
Fourteen or fifteen leagues higher on the east side of the Meschacebe is the nation and river of Yasque (Yazoo), which comes two or three hundred miles out of the country, on which dwell the nations in order mentioned after, the Vassouces, the Tounicas, Kourouas, Tihiou, Samboukia, and Epitoupa.
Ten or twelve leagues higher on the west side is the river Natebi-
1
228
HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS OF LOUISIANA.
tock (Arkansas), which has a course of many hundred miles; and after it is ascended about one hundred, there are many springs, pits, and lakes, which afford most excellent common salt in great plenty, wherewith they trade with neighboring nations for other commodities they want, and may be of great service to the European inhabitants of this country, to preserve flesh and fish for their own use, and ex- portation to natives, Spaniards, and our islands, to the great profit of them who have not stock to engage in greater and more beneficial un- dertakings. Upon this river inhabit not only the Natchitocks, Nagu- atceres, Natsohocks, but higher several other nations. Sixteen leagues further upon the west side, enter the Meschacebe two rivers, which unite about ten leagues above, and make an island called by the name of the Torimans, by whom it is inhabited.
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