USA > Louisiana > The province and the states, a history of the province of Louisiana under France and Spain, and of the territories and states of the United States formed therefrom, Vol. I > Part 31
Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).
Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 | Part 5 | Part 6 | Part 7 | Part 8 | Part 9 | Part 10 | Part 11 | Part 12 | Part 13 | Part 14 | Part 15 | Part 16 | Part 17 | Part 18 | Part 19 | Part 20 | Part 21 | Part 22 | Part 23 | Part 24 | Part 25 | Part 26 | Part 27 | Part 28 | Part 29 | Part 30 | Part 31 | Part 32 | Part 33 | Part 34 | Part 35 | Part 36 | Part 37 | Part 38 | Part 39 | Part 40 | Part 41 | Part 42 | Part 43 | Part 44 | Part 45 | Part 46 | Part 47
1
.
307
THE EXPEDITION OF LEWIS AND CLARK.
Early in December bands of Cheyennes and Pawnees visited the Mandans. Mr. Henderson, of the Hudson's Bay Company, who had come to the Minnetarees, also called upon the American officers. A message was sent to Messrs. 'Tebeau and Gravelines, who were in the Arickaree villages, to employ their best endeavors to prevent the Sioux from waging war on the Mandans. On December 7, a large herd of buffalo being in the vicinity of the fort, the Indians and the whites engaged in a general hunt. Only five animals were secured by the latter. The next morning the thermometer stood at twelve degrees below zero. On this day eight more buffaloes were secured, but many of the men were frost-bitten. Nine more buffaloes were killed the following day, but the whites were compelled to go so far from the fort that they were forced to spend the night in the deep snow and the intense cold. On the 11th the thermometer showed twenty-one degrees below zero, and the men were not permitted to leave the fort. Early the next morning it showed thirty-eight degrees below zero. On the 17th it stood at forty-five below zero, and the following day at thirty-two below. Large herds of buffalo crossed the river on the ice. During the mild weather several of the men were kept at work completing the stockade. On Christmas day, the American flag was hoisted over the fort for the first time. The best provisions in their possession and a little brandy enabled all to celebrate the day fittingly.
The new year, 1805, was ushered in "by two shots from the swivel and a round of small arms. In the morning we permitted sixteen men with their music to go to the first village, where they delighted the whole tribe with their dances, particularly with the movements of one of the Frenchmen, who danced on his head. In return they presented the dancers with several buffalo robes and quantities of corn. We were desirous of showing this atten- tion to the village, because they had received an impression that we had been wanting in regard for them, and because they had in consequence circulated invidious comparisons between us and the northern traders." About this time war became imminent between the Minnetarees and the Ahnahaways over a girl of the former who had been stolen by the latter; but the maiden was returned and peace was patched up. This is a common expres- sion in the journal : "Po-cap-sa-he visited us today and brought some meat on his wife's back." It was no uncommon sight to see the lordly buck stalking along empty-handed while his faithful squaw staggered by his side bearing a burden weighing one hun- dred pounds. Among the Americans was a blacksmith, who was
308
THE PROVINCE AND THE STATES.
regarded as a superior medicine man by the Indians ; particularly was his bellows an object of intense veneration. They never tired watching his flaming forge and the coruscating sparks. He was kept busy all winter mending and making all sorts of articles for both whites and reds. The latter purchased repairs with the various grains. The Indians had two warm-weather dances which were unique in the extreme. The description of one of them in the journal was written in Latin. Thus a naked, indeli- cate and barbarous custom was clothed in the somber and secret garments of a dead language.
The weather became extremely cold again, the thermometer standing at twenty-one degrees below zero on the 9th, forty below on the roth, thirty-eight below on the 11th, twenty below on the 12th, and thirty-four below on the 13th, after which it began to moderate. From time to time the Indian chiefs were permitted to pass nights at the fort. On the 15th a total eclipse of the moon was observed. A large band of the Minnetarees visited the fort on the 16th, and their friendship was secured-not promised. When the trader, Laroche, asked permission to accompany the expedition to the mouth of the Yellowstone, he was refused by Captain Lewis, who doubted his friendship where his own inter- ests were concerned, and did not care to identify a private enter- prise with a public movement. The American captains were greatly impressed with the firmness, intelligence and integrity of the chief, Po-cap-sa-he, who, in their estimation, was the superior of any Indian they had yet met. . Strange as it may seem, the horses of this region preferred the bark and twigs of the cotton- wood trees to meal bran moistened with water. "These horses - are very severely treated; for whole days they are pursuing the buffalo or burdened with the fruits of the chase, during which they scarcely ever taste food, and at night return to a scanty allowance of wood; yet the spirit of this valuable animal sustains him through all these difficulties, and he is rarely deficient either in flesh or vigor."
A hunting party which had been out for several days returned February 13th with forty deer, nineteen elks and three buffaloes ; but unfortunately much of the flesh was too lean to be of any use, except to the wolves, ravens and magpies. The party had gone fifty miles from the fori, and had suffered intensely from the severe cold. About this time another small party of hunters were surrounded by a band of Sioux, who ent their traces and stole two of their horses and several knives. For this flagrant act it was determined to pursue and punish them. The Mandans were
309
THE EXPEDITION OF LEWIS AND CLARK.
asked if they wished to assist : as nearly all of the warriors were away on a hunt, only a few could be secured. These few joined the expedition under Captain Lewis, which set out at sunrise on the 15th with over twenty men. The fierce cold and snow- blindness forced several to return. Though the Sioux were fol- lowed a long distance, they were not overtaken; in default of which Captain Lewis formed a hunting party and brought in about three thousand pounds of buffalo, deer and elk meat.
It now being the middle of February, preparations were made to ascend the river as soon as the ice should melt and the river become clear. The boats were cut out of the ice and put in good condition ; tools and weapons were cleaned and sharpened, and the supplies of clothing, trinkets, ammunition and provisions looked after. Large trees were cut down to be used in making boats to take the place of the large batteaux, which had brought them thus far on their journey. About this time it was learned from the Arickarees that the Sioux had declared they intended to kill all Americans who came to their country. Early in March the weather became quite warm, and the ice on the river began to break. During the winter all knowledge possible of the Rocky mountain region had been obtained from the various Indian and French visitors. A Minnetaree chief who had not yet seen the Americans, visited the fort, and asked particularly to see the negro, York, of whom he had heard extravagant stories from his tribe. He was astonished at the sight of the negro, and having wet his finger with spit he tried to rub out the color of the skin. "Nor was it until the negro uncovered his head and showed his short hair, that the chief could be persuaded that he was not a painted white man."
Just before the departure of the Americans, there was an enor- mous demand from the Indians for battle-axes made of sheet iron by the blacksmith. Taking advantage of this demand, large quantities of corn were obtained for use in the upper country, when game should grow scarce. All the traders in the vicinity and all the Indian chiefs visited the fort once more before the expedition again started on its historic journey. Despite the influence of the Americans and the traders, the Sioux continued on the war-path, and in self defense the other nations were forced to take up the hatchet. Previous to the departure of the expedi- tion, several war parties of the Minnetarees set out to retaliate on the Sioux. The Mandans were preparing for similar grim action. Thus one of the missions of the expedition at least -- to bring about peace between the tribes-was far from accomplishment.
310
THE PROVINCE AND THE STATES.
The Sioux were wholly to blame, and needed a trouncing. The misfortune was great that the expedition was not strong enough to give them at this time a practical lesson of the strength of their great father at Washington.
By the middle of March there was every indication of approach- ing spring. The snow liad almost wholly disappeared from the plains, and terrible prairie fires could be seen in every direction racing faster than the swiftest horse. These fires were set by the Indians so that the tender grass would soon draw to the region the vast herds of buffalo, antelope, elk, deer, etc. Countless numbers of wild fowl were observed flying north day and night. The ice in the river began to break, and on it were caught many buffaloes that tried to cross. The river began to rise and the rushing rainstorms swept furiously across the plains. Prepara- tions for the earliest start possible were completed. The barge which was to be sent down the rivers, freighted with articles for President Jefferson, was loaded on the 4th of April; and the fol- lowing day was spent in preparing those intended for the up journey. Finally, the barge was sent away, carrying a total of fifteen hands, among whom were five traders and several Indian chiefs on their way to Washington.
The party to ascend the river consisted of thirty-two persons : Captains Lewis and Clark; Sergeants John Ordway, Patrick Gass and Nathaniel Pryor ; Privates William Bratton, John Col- lins, John Colter, Peter Cruzatte, Reuben Fields, Joseph Fields, Robert Frazier, George Gibson, Silas Goodrich, Hugh Hall, Thomas P. Howard, Francis Labiche, Baptiste Lapage, Hugh MeNeal, John Potts, John Shields, George Shannon, John B. Thompson, William Werner, Joseph Whitehouse, Alexander Willard, Richard Windsor and Peter Wiser. The two interpre- ters were George Drewyer, a half-breed, and Touissant Chabo- neau, a French adventurer and the husband of Sa-ca-ja-we-ah, or Bird Woman, a Shoshone Indian, who, with her little child, accompanied the expedition. She had been born in the Rocky mountain region ; but had been captured by the Minnetarees of the prairie when a child; and later had been purchased by Cha- bonean, who finally married her. During the winter, while at Fort Mandan, she had given birth to her first child. Both inter- preters were adepts at prairie and wood craft, could speak several of the Indian tongues and were well versed in the sign language, by which it was comparatively easy to converse with any tribe. With the expedition was York, the negro servant of Captain Clark. Cruzatte was the fiddler and Shields the blacksmith.
ידן
3II
THIE EXPEDITION OF LEWIS AND CLARK.
As they ascended, many hunting parties of the various tribes were seen along the banks. The mounds made by the pocket gopher were observed as soon as the frost was out of the ground. "Our old companions, the mosquitoes, have renewed their visit, and gave us much uneasiness." The Little Missouri river was reached the 12th of April. Game was scarce and wild fowl shy. Having passed Chaboneau creek, the Americans were told that no white man had gone much higher. By the 17th, buffalo, elk, deer, antelope, wolves and bears began to be seen, and soon the camp was well supplied with an abundance of fresh meat. The men relished the flesh of the beaver better than that of any other variety of animal. The timber began to be scanty, but every little grove was found to contain the ruins of some recent Indian encampment. In. the vicinity of White Earth river, the soil was found in places almost white with some salt. For some reason not learned, the men suffered greatly froni sore eyes ; they thought it was caused by the sand storms, which sometimes hid the oppo- site shore of the river from sight.
Upon reaching the Yellowstone river, the expedition halted long enough to enable Captain Lewis to take celestial observa- tions, etc. This river was known to the French as Roche Jaune. The journey was resumed on the 27th, and game was found to be very abundant. At one spot it was noticed that a tree nearly three feet in diameter had been eaten off by beavers. On the 28th, Captain Lewis and a companion killed a grizzly bear. After being wounded, it pursued them, though not so fast as to pre- vent their loading their guns, when two more shots ended its life. Martha's river was reached the 20th, and Porcupine river May 3d. They had never before seen such a profusion of wild ganie as now covered the plains and river valleys. Grizzly bears were numerous, and several were killed, though not without great danger to the hunters. It was something new for the party to meet a wild animal that not only refused to retreat, but immedi- ately started in for a fight. This bear was the monarch of the plains and the mountains ; every other animal fled before it. Even the Indians gave it a wide berth. It thus had formed the habit of chasing every living thing and investigating every object it saw. When the white hunters appeared, the bears made a bee line for them, with open mouth and at a rate of speed that required a swift horse to place them at a point of safety. It was rare that one of these huge animals was killed at one shot; it · often required ten or fifteen before it succumbed. In the mean- time, after being wounded, it pursued the hunters, who were thus often placed in extreme peril. Fortunately, none was killed, but
1.
1
312
THE PROVINCE AND THE STATES.
several had narrow escapes. More than once the pursued hunter was obliged to jump down steep embankments, or into the river, before the savage animal could be avoided. One killed May 5th weighed over five hundred pounds, had fore-claws nearly five inches long, and was not killed until ten shots had been fired into his body, 'five of which passed through the lungs. The only single shot that was sufficient to instantly terminate life was through the brain.
Big Dry river was reached May 6th. "The game is in such plenty that it has become a mere amusement to supply the party with provisions." Many bald eagles were observed. Milk river was passed on the 8th. "The water has a peculiar whiteness, such as might be produced by a teaspoonful of milk in a dish of tea." The water of the Missouri had now become much clearer. An Indian dog joined them on the roth, but could not be induced to remain. It was conjectured that an encampment as Assini- boins was not far away. Another large grizzly was killed op the IIth, and here again the wonderful vitality of the animal caused all to marvel. "We had rather encounter two Indians than meet a single brown bear." The skin of this bear was "suf- ficient burden for two men, and eight gallons of oil were obtained from the carcass." Near Gibson creek, another was killed after the most intense excitement and danger. Eight balls were fired through his body in different directions without seriously incom- moding him ; finally a shot through the brain brought him to the ground. By this time, the men of the expedition began to enter- tain a most profound respect for the courage and vitality of this wonderful animal.
Near Rattlesnake creek it was observed that the channel of the Missouri was much narrower than before. Almost the only tim- ber was a little cottonwood along the streams and small clumps of scrubby pine and cedar on the hills. Soon after this, an unoc- cupied, yet fortified, Indian encampment was passed. Mussel- shell river was reached on the 20th. A branch of this river was named for Chaboneau's Indian wife, Sah-ca-ja-we-ah, or Bird Woman. In this region immense quantities of prickly pear cov- . cred the ground. The weather was so cold that severe frosts appeared every night : ice was even formed along the margin of the river, "and the water froze on our oars." The remarkable fertility of the soil in several of the valleys was observed. Many of the largest creeks were found wholly dry, apparently serving merely to carry off the surplus water in times of flood. About this time difficult rapide were found in the river; and the value of the water power, the obstructions to navigation, the regularity
.
313
THE EXPEDITION OF LEWIS AND CLARK.
of the supply, etc., were noted. The game began to grow scarcer as they approached the mountains, because this was the season when it sought the plains for the luxuriant and nourishing grass. The rough country where they now were was a continuation of the Black Hills. By the 26th, they reached the highest point of the hills, where the valleys were reduced to narrow strips. The journal reads: "It was here that, after ascending the highest summits of the hills on the north side of the river, Captain Lewis first caught a distant view of the Rocky mountains, the object of all our hopes and the reward of all our ambition."
From time to time great danger was encountered in the rapids, where often the boats were on the point of being dashed in pieces. The towline was in almost constant use while advancing. Large numbers of beavers and "big horns" were seen. "We came to a handsome stream which discharges itself on the south and which we named Judith river." Near this spot, on the same date, May 29th, was seen an Indian encampment of one hundred and twenty-six lodges, "which appeared to have been deserted about twelve or fifteen days, and on the other side of the Missouri a large encampment, apparently made by the same nation." Near the mouth of Judith river and at the bottom of a high cliff, were heaped the carcasses of at least one hundred buffaloes. The ani- mals had no doubt been chased over the brink by the Indians, as such was a common practice among them. Slaughter river was duly reached and named for this circumstance; and at this time it was observed that the air was "astonishingly pure." The expe- dition continued to pass many abandoned Indian encampments, thought to be those of the Minnetarees of the Saskatchewan. Some snow fell in the hills as late as June. The wonderful cliff formations, worn by water into shapes resembling rocky castles, with galleries, parapets, minarets and columns, were greatly admired. The snow on the distant mountains, glistening in the summer sun, checred the hearts of all with the prospect of cool breezes for the hot months.
Early in June two of the hunters had narrow escapes from a grizzly bear, which they finally succeeded in killing. When Maria's river was reached the two captains were in doubt as to which was the main branch of the Missouri and which would lead by the shortest and most practicable route to the navigable waters of the Columbia river. It was realized that, in a large measure, the fate of the expedition depended upon a right selec- tion. Accordingly, detachments of men were sent up cach to ascertain so far as possible the upper courses of both, before the
-
314
THIE PROVINCE AND THE STATES.
expedition was committed to either. The open country was also explored for additional light on the subject. In spite of these investigations, there remained almost as much doubt after their return as before. A much more extensive preliminary explora- tion was therefore decided upon. Each of the captains, with a small squad of men, set off up the two branches and remained absent several days. It was ascertained that the upper branch, to which they had given the name Maria's river, pursued a course much too far to the north, and that the southern branch was more likely to lead by a short route to the Columbia. During their exploration, Teton river was discovered and named Tansy. Thinking that they might be forced to return, they determined to "cache" the most of their supplies and then ascend the southern branch. When Captain Lewis, who had gone in advance, at last discovered the great falls of the Missouri, it was no longer doubted that they were on the right course.
The marvelous beauty of the country was a great surprise and . a constant delight to the men. The broad plains covered with wild animals, the numerous water-courses with their picturesque rapids, the stone castles carved by the ages from the perpetual hills, the myriads of birds in the fragrant groves, and the gleam- ing mountains in the distance, were a great inspiration to every man in the party. On one plain they saw "infinitely more buffalo than they had ever before seen at a single view." The entire expedition reached the great falls on the 16th of June. It now became a momentous question how to pass around the falls ; but it was finally accomplished after a vast amount of hard work. Here another boat thirty-six feet in length was built for use in shallower water, and the ascent of the river was resumed. Buf- faloes, elks, deer, wolves, bears, beavers, wild fowl, rattlesnakes and grasshoppers abounded. Every few days some one of the party had a narrow escape from a grizzly bear. When closely pursued, the hunters often sought safety in the depth of the river. One of these animals was found to have a forefoot which measured nine inches across. They finally became so bold that they entered the camp in the night and kindled consternation. The fury of the mountain storms was a cause of great wonder. The many fine springs of pure and of mineral water, both hot and cold, were greatly enjoyed, after the many months spent in drink- ing the muddy and insipid water of the Missouri. By the 5th of July, the boat was finished : it consisted of a light framework of wood, covered principally with the hides of elk, deer, buffalo, etc. It was designed to carry four tons, besides the complement of
315
TIIE EXPEDITION OF LEWIS AND CLARK.
hands necessary for rowing. The launching occurred on the 9th of July, "and it swam perfectly well." Unfortunately, it was found impossible to use it, owing to the lack of material with which to close the seams. All the labor was thus thrown away.
It was then determined to build several canoes to take the place of the large boat. Accordingly, two were made twenty-five and thirty-three feet long respectively, and with them the advance was resumed July 15th. Food was abundant, the mountains would be reached in a short time, and all were happy. They hoped soon to meet the Indians for two reasons : In order to procure horses to carry them over the mountains, and in order to be guided over the best route to the Columbia. Dearborn river was reached on the 18th. In the deep valleys, the heat was almost insupportable, while on the hill tops the frost fell nearly every night. High above them like Tantalus were the everlasting snows on the mount- ain tops. An extraordinary range of rocks was named Gates of . the Rocky Mountains. The mosquitoes were so numerous and so fierce, that it was found necessary to use "biers". during the nights as a protection against them. Sa-ca-ja-we-ah, the wife of Chaboneau, herself a Snake or Shoshone Indian, now recognized the country as having been her home when she was a child and before she was captured by the Minnetarees. She announced that the three upper forks of the Missouri were not far distant ; and the announcement revived the hopes and flagging energies of the party. Many kinds of edible fruits were found in the groves, while every day members of the party were wounded by the prickly pear. Finally to the relief of all, the three forks were reached on the 27th. Here a long rest was taken and all neces- sary preparation was made, before the expedition advanced to cross the mountains. The Missouri river was no longer a pilot to their course. They must find other means of guidance, and it was realized that the knowledge of the Indians must be secured and made available.
The three branches were named Madison, Jefferson and Gal- latin, and the surrounding country was thoroughly explored. It was near the forks of the river that Sa-ca-ja-we-ah was captured when a child. Many of her tribe were slain at the time, and she among several others was carried into captivity. The captains finally decided to ascend Jefferson river. Philosophy river was reached and named on the 3Ist of July. The next day Captain Lewis and three others went in advance to find the most practi- cable route, while the rest of the expedition followed more slowly in their trail. Upon arriving at Beaver Head, Sa-ca-ja-we-ah
·
316
THE PROVINCE AND THE STATES.
said that only a short distance to the westward the upper branches of the Columbia could be reached. She said that the Shoshones were encamped on those streams. As the river became narrower and shallower, the indispensability of horses became apparent. But horses could not be procured except from the Indians, and every effort was therefore made to hold communication with the members of some tribe. Indian signs were wanted. Wisdom river was finally reached and ascended, and every eye was kept open. Finally, Captain Lewis and his little party saw far ahead a single horseman and the glass revealed an Indian. He was approached with every sign of friendship known to the whites, but was very suspicious and finally set off at full speed and was soon out of sight. They followed his trail for a long time, but a rain storm at last blotted out all traces of his flight, for it was nothing else. On the 12th of August, Captain Lewis and his two companions, Drewyer and Shields, reached the remote source of Wisdom river, or strictly, the Missouri river, where the stream. was so small that one of the men "thanked God that he had lived to bestride the Missouri." A few hours later "as they went along their hope of soon seeing the waters of the Columbia arose almost to painful anxiety ; when after four miles from the last abrupt turn of the river, they reached a small gap formed by the high mountains which recede on each side, leaving room for the Indian ford. From the foot of one of the lowest of these mountains, which rises with a gentle ascent of about half a mile, issues the remotest water of the Missouri. They had now reached the hidden sources of that river, which had never yet been seen by civilized man; and as they quenched their thirst at the chaste and icy fountain-as they sat down by the brink of that little rivulet, which yieldled its distant and modest tribute to the parent ocean- they felt themselves rewarded for all their labors and all their difficulties."
Need help finding more records? Try our genealogical records directory which has more than 1 million sources to help you more easily locate the available records.