USA > Louisiana > The province and the states, a history of the province of Louisiana under France and Spain, and of the territories and states of the United States formed therefrom, Vol. I > Part 35
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The position thus taken by the Pawnees, and nearly all seemed to favor it, sharply defined the pending issue and showed at once the metal that was in Captain Pike. He spoke at considerable length in reply to these points, saying that all this region belonged to the United States, and was not seriously disputed even by the Spanish themselves ; that the Father at Washington had sent him out to see all the red children in the territory of the United States in the West; that he had come to make the red children presents and to tell them to live in peace with one another; that he was compelled to proceed by the orders of the Father, that if he did not at this time there would be sent out a large army that would not be so kind to them, and that he was determined to proceed as he had been ordered. He said, "I have been sent ont by our Great Father to explore the western country, to visit all his red
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children, to make peace between them, and turn them from the shedding of blood; and you may see how I have caused the .Osage and Kaws to meet to smoke the pipe of peace together, and take each other by the hands like brothers; that as yet my road has been smooth, and a blue sky over our heads. I have not seen any blood in our paths; but you must know that the young warriors of our Great American Father are not women to be turned back by words, that I shall therefore proceed, and if you think proper to stop me, you can attempt it; but we are men, well armed, and will sell our lives at a dear rate to your nation, and we know our Great Father will send our young warriors there to gather our bones and revenge our deaths on your people; when our spirits will rejoice in hearing our exploits sung in the war songs of our chiefs."
Having thus spoken, Pike "then left the lodge and returned to camp in considerable perturbation of mind." He writes under date of October 2d, "We received advice from our Kansas that the chief had given publicity to his idea of stopping us by force of arms, which gave serious reflections to me, and was productive of many singular expressions from my brave lads, which called for my esteem at the same time that they excited my laughter." Pike was fortunate in having only men with him who would stand by him in any extremity ; for all now favored advancing and taking what consequences the Indians miglit offer. He continued to make preparations, and sought to buy horses, but was unable to do so at first. He noticed a hostile sentiment throughout the villages, and accordingly kept to himself, and strengthened his force at all points, guarding everything securely at night to pre- vent possible surprise. On October 7, all things being ready, he started, passing around the villages instead of through them, and having everything in readiness to repel an attack. He coolly says that he calculated that his force could kill one hundred savages before they were wholly annihilated. As he passed their village he saw much commotion, and rode up to the lodges to ascertain what was the matter. Having learned that no attack was con- templated, although he saw that many of the warriors had their arms in their hands, he returned to his little army and continued to advance, "feeling immensely relieved." He said, "All the evil I wished the Pawnees was that I might be the instrument in the hands of our government to open their ears and eyes with a strong hand to convince them of our power."
The expedition passed on and was soon far away from the
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Pawnee villages; but extra guard was posted for several days, lest the savages should change their minds. There were now two officers, one doctor, eigliteen soldiers, one interpreter, three . Osages and one woman. On the 8th they came again upon the Spanish trail, and at one of the camps counted fifty-nine fires, which, at six men to a fire, signified a force of three hundred fifty-four troopers. On October 9, the Pawnces put in an appear- ance, and were guilty of many threatening acts, stealing small articles, and circling fiercely around on the prairie; but they finally withdrew, though they returned again the next day.
Solomon's Fork was again crossed the oth much farther to the west than on December 23, and here another camp of the Spanish . army was found. It was the plan of Pike to follow the Spanish trail, because it would no doubt lead by the most direct route to the mountains where the head of Red river was to be found, the objective now of the expedition. On the 9th Pike says he saw for the first time a buffalo hunt on a grand scale by the Indians armed only with their native weapons. He writes, "The buffalo took back in sight of the Pawnees, who immediately mounted fifty or sixty young men and joined in the pursuit; then for the first time in my life I saw animals slaughtered by the true savages, with their original weapons, bows and arrows: they buried the arrow to the plume in the animal." They reached the Smoky Hill Fork on the 13th, not far from the boundary line of the counties of Russell and Ellsworth, and the following day arrived at the divide between the the Arkansas and the Kansas rivers. Ilere Pike and a small party became lost on the prairie, and did not turn up for several days : in the meantime the expedition con- tinued to advance to the Arkansas river, where the lost party under Pike overtook it. The river was crossed by all hands on the 19th.
Here an important change had been ordered. The expedition was to be divided, part returning down the Arkansas and part going on up to the mountains -for the purpose of discovering the headwaters of Red river, and then of descending that unknown stream-unknown to the Americans. Canoes were made of buf- falo and deer hides and wood and were filled with provisions, arms and ammunition. Finally, on the 28th of October, Lieuten- ant Wilkinson, accompanied by five men and an Indian, started. down the river, while the remainder of the force under the com- mand of Captain Pike advanced up the stream. This parting was not without tears on both sides. They had become used to one
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another, had passed through the same dangers, and slept under the same blankets, and now realizing, as only companions in great dangers can, the sorrows of parting.
The party under Lieutenant Wilkinson soon found that it was impracticable to use their boats, as they soon grounded and were in danger any moment of upsetting and depositing all their pro- visions and ammunition in the middle of the river. On the 30th the river froze over and obliged them wholly to abandon the boats. The next day they threw away everything they could not carry or did not want to do so, and started ahead on foot. They liad but one fear: That some war party of Pawnees might descend upon them. The country was almost wholly barren, scarcely a shrub, and not a tree, being in sight for several days. By the 8th of November, cotton-woods began to line the water courses, and the herds of buffalo began to make their appearance. Lieutenant Wilkinson states that on one day he saw fully nine thousand buffaloes. On the 10th he says he saw a tree that was not a cotton-wood, and felt as if he had met an old friend. By the 12th the buffalo began to disappear, and the deer became more abundant. By the 15th, trees large enough to make canoes were found, and it was resolved to try once more to float down instead of walk down. While several began on the canoes, the others went hunting for their winter's supply of meat. Everything being ready by the 24th, they tried again, but as before the boats grounded. But they pushed them along, the men jumping into the icy water bare-legged and bare-footed to put their shoulders to the boats. Finally, on the 28th, one of the canoes upset and deposited all of their provisions and the most of their ammunition in the river, after which they again abandoned them and took to the bank, managing to save enough for present needs.
A band of Osage Indians was encountered the 30th, who brought word that the chief, Wind, was sick on the opposite side of the prairie and desired to see Lieutenant Wilkinson. Accord- ingly, he went out and found him seriously ill. He complained that, after the departure of Pike's party from the Osage villages, Chouteau. had done about all he could to influence the Indians against the Americans, and that because he ( Wind) had sus- tained the Americans, the Frenchman had caused him to be deprived of provisions and goods and had shamefully mistreated him in many other ways, leaving himself and family almost wholly without clothing. Wilkinson furnished the old chief all he needed, and wrote a sharp letter to General Wilkinson con-
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. cerning the conduct of Chontean, which in the end brought about the desired reforms.
Their ammunition began to run short, and all were cautioned to waste none. The weather was very cold, and the men had no stockings, and only cotton trousers. Great suffering resulted. December 16 Sabine river was passed, and on the 27th the Verdi- gris and the Grand. Two days later the mouth of the Illinois was reached, and on January 9 they arrived at Arkansas Post and took a rest from their extremely arduous trials and severe sufferings.
After parting with Lieutenant Wilkinson, the party under Captain Pike advanced rapidly up stream along the valley of the river. On the 29th of October they saw two wild horses feeding among the buffaloes, and tried to catch them by running, but failed, as they were too fast for the horses of the expedition. On the 3ist they saw much crystalline salt on the surface of the ground. The country was now covered with snow: they were not far from what is now Kinsley, Edwards county, Kan. On November Ist, a large herd of wild horses observed the intruders, and came rapidly toward them, making the earth tremble with their tread. Among them were animals of all colors-bays, blacks, grays and mixed colors, and several were very fine An attempt was made to "crease"* a fine black stallion, but the attempt failed. They would advance, paw the earth and whinney, all the time circulating around the strangers with the greatest curi- osity. The next day an attempt was made to "noose" some of them. Six men mounted on the best horses were sent out; but although the wild ones came within forty yards of them, it was found impossible to capture one, because no one in the party knew how to lasso them. When they were chased, two of the men, it was found, were so well mounted that they easily came up with the herd, but all efforts to cast the noose over their heads failed. Pike writes, "I have since laughed at our folly; for taking the wild horses in that manner is scarcely ever attempted even with the fleetest horses and most expert ropers." .They did not seem to know the meaning of the word "lasso," and certainly did not know how to use it.
It was observed by Pike the 3d, that the wild animals were all heading for the south, occasioned, of course, by the snow and the
* To shoot the animal through the neck just above the spinal column, the shot being sufficient to drop the animal in its tracks long enough for the hunters to catch it, without injuring it permanentiv. .
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consequent difficulty of finding feed under the white covering. They began to see many salt ponds, and an excellent salt marsh grass was observed. On the 4th they encountered immense herds of buffalo cows and their calves; having previously seen only bulls. They saw three thousand in one herd. Cow buffalo meat was infinitely superior to that of the bulls ; in fact Pike avers that it was the best meat in the world, superior to the best beef. Hc wrote of November 6, "I will not attempt to describe the droves of animals we now saw on our route ; suffice it to say, that the face of the prairie was covered with them on each side of the river; their numbers exceed imagination."
By the 9th of November, they were in the vicinity of the pres- ent town of Hartland, Kearney county. Here, at one of the Spanish encampments, they counted ninety-six fires, which signi- fied that the force had been augmented to from six hundred to seven hundred troopers. By the 10th their horse feed began to grow scarce and the next day two of the poor animals gave out. The following day they were obliged to leave these animals. They now saw fresh signs of Indians; and being in a hostile country, began to take extra precautions not to be caught napping. On the 15th, for the first time, they perceived in the blue distance the mountains. So glad were they to leave the wearisome plain, the men gave three cheers "for the Mexican mountains." On this day they reached Purgatory river, a branch of the Arkansas. On November 18, the hunters, sent out without restrictions killed seventeen buffaloes and wounded twenty more greatly to the mortification of Pike. Another horse died on the 19th. On this day they feasted on one hundred thirty-six marrow bones of the buffaloes killed the day before, and regarded it as one of the most enjoyable feasts they had ever survived. They took on their horses about nine hundred pounds of buffalo meat, notwithstand- ing that they had one less horse, and all the others were extremely weak. Thus while the men feasted, the poor horses were liter- ally starving. The tracks of two men were crossed about this time, which occasioned fresh words of caution. Hostile Indians or hostile Spaniards might be encountered at any time now, so that everything was kept in condition for resistance.
On the 22d a large war party of Grand Pawnees, who were in pursuit of the Tetans, rode up to the expedition. They were sixty warriors, about half of whom had guns. After the manner of the Indians, when they did not wish to make an open attack, but had no respect for the others, they began to take all sorts of
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liberties with the expedition-helped themselves to articles of all sorts, a sword, a tomahawk, a broad ax, five canteens, and many other small articles. They even attempted to take the arms of the white men. When they at last began to take liberties with the baggage, it was deemed prudent to stop their nonsense. Pike accordingly ordered his men to their arms, and informed the Indians through his interpreter, that if they touched his baggage, he would open fire upon them; whereupon they immediately drew off. Finding they could gain nothing, they finally departed. Pike wrote as follows: "When I reflected on the subject I felt myself severely mortified that the smallness of my numbers obliged me thus to submit to the insults of a lawless banditti, it being the first time ever a savage took anything from me with the least appearance of force."
What Pike called the third fork was reached November 23. He writes, "As the river appeared to be dividing itself into many small branches and of course must be near its extreme source, I concluded to put the party in a defensible situation; and then ascend the north fork to the high point of the blue mountain, which we conceived would be one day's march, in order to be enabled from its pinnacle to lay down the various branches and positions of the country." The third fork was the St. Charles river, and their encampment was made at what he called the "grand forks," or at the junction of the Fountain river with the Arkansas. The high point lie referred to was Pike's peak. The north fork which they determined to ascend was Fountain river. They cut the necessary logs the next day, and erected a strong breastwork, five feet high on three sides, with the other opening on the south bank of the Arkansas. They were now on the pres- ent site of Pueblo. Leaving all the others at the fort, Pike, Rob- inson, Miller and Brown started for the mountains. By the 26th they had ascended so high that they looked down on the clouds rolling across the plain to the east. On the 27th they reached the summit, but had had a very difficult time, being obliged often to wade in snow waist deep. As the soldiers had on only light cotton overalls and were without stockings, and as the weather was severely cold, they suffered intensely. Game was very scarce, but they succeeded in killing two buffaloes on the 28th, and, as Pike says, had the first good meal in three days. On their way back, they noted that the soil was very rich, and that the val- lays were full of old deserted letan camps. The fort was reached on the 29th, and all there were found well.
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It was now December ist, the snow lay a foot deep, the ther- mometer hovered around zero, the men were only half clad; but they could not remain idle; the country must be explored; all must keep moving, for self preservation, if for nothing more. The poor horses were forced to subsist on the tops of trees cut down for them. The hungry magpies became so bold, they lighted on the horses' backs and pecked at the wounds made by the packs; they even lighted on the arms of the men to dispute with them the title to the pieces of meat that had just been roasted. Finally, all hands departed, and on the 5th of December they reached the mountains. Having encamped, they tried to find a pass through the mountains, but did not succeed until the 10th, i. e., through what is now Oil creek. They saw around them abandoned camps both of the Ietans and the Spaniards. They continued to ascend the Arkansas, but made frequent side excur- sions for purposes of discovery. Their camp was on the main stream at the entrance of Wet mountain. On the 6th, they ascended the river and reached the Royal Gorge; but failed to find the Spanish trace for which they were in search; though the next day they found it north of the Arkansas. On one of their excursions they reached the south branch of the Platte river.
As a precautionary measure, a permanent camp was established on the north bank of the Arkansas, at what is now Canon City, which served as a rallying point, while the surrounding country was being explored. One of the excursion parties ascended the ยท Arkansas in a northwest direction nearly or quite to its remote source, or until the river was merely a small brook. While thus engaged Pike ascertained that a large party of Spaniards had recently been in this vicinity : he also found an abandoned Indian encampment, where several thousand head of horses had been kept for some time. Having learned, as he thought, that the Spaniards had ascended the river, he writes, December 14, "We determined to pursue them, as the geography of the country had turned out to be so different from our expectations. We were somewhat at a loss what course to pursue." Where they struck the Platte was at the head of Eleven Mile Canon. In the mean- time, Pike and his companions kept wondering where the head- waters of Red river were; their design being to decend that stream. On the 18th, having been to the north of the Arkansas, they marched southwest and again reached that river, although they thought at first it was the Red. Descending the same they finally discovered their mistake. They then began to reason that
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the sources of the Red must be to the southwest. At one time they nearly starved, but the following day "from being in a starving condition, we had eight beeves in camp."
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Christmas was spent together feasting on fresh buffalo meat, without salt or other accompaniment; the men "appeared gen- erally to be content." Thus far Pike had ascertained the sources of the Little Osage and the Neosha rivers; had passed round the head of the Kansas river; and had discovered the headwaters of . the South Platte. He was now intent on finding the upper sources of the Red. December 25th, he writes, "Here eight hun- dred miles from the frontiers of our country, in the most inclem- ent season of the year, not one person clothed for the winter, many without blankets, having been obliged to cut them up for socks, etc., and now lying down at night on the snow or wet ground, one side burning whilst the other was pierced with the cold wind- such was in part the situation of the party, whilst some were endeavoring to make a miserable substitute of raw buffalo hide for shoes, etc. I will not speak of diet, as I conceive that to be beneath the serious consideration of a man on a voyage of such a nature." Soon their horses began to give out, and on January 2, one of them, having fallen and seriously hurt itself, was shot to get it out of its misery. On the 4th of January, they divided into eight small parties, in order the better to make discoveries and kill game. It was on the 7th that Pike learned to his great mortification that they were not on the Red river as they had for some time supposed. All the party reoccupied the camp at Canon City on the 9th.
Pike wrote under date of January 9th, "The whole party were once more joined together, when we felt comparatively happy, notwithstanding the great mortification I experienced at having been so egregiously deceived as to the Red river. I now felt at considerable loss how to proceed, as any idea of services at that time from my horses was entirely preposterous. After various plans formed and rejected, and the most mature deliberation, I determined to build a small place for defense and deposit ; leave part of the baggage, horses, my interpreter and one man ; and with the balance, our packs of Indian presents, ammunition, tools, etc., on our backs, cross the mountains on foot, find the Red river, and then send back a party to conduct the horses and baggage by the most eligible route we could discover; by which time the horses would be so recovered as to be able to endure the fatigues of the march. In consequence of this determination, some were
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put to constructing the blockhouse, some to hunting, some to tak- ing care of horses, etc." This blockhouse was built at their encampment on the present site of Canon City.
The start on their perilous journey was made January 14, each man carrying about seventy pounds. Barony Vasquez, the inter- preter, and Patrick Smith were left in charge of the blockhouse. The party advanced up what Pike calls the south fork, but which is now known as Grape creek, and marched in a southerly direc- tion. On the 17th the great Sangre de Cristo range of mount- ains came in full view around a spur of the Wet mountains. This day it was found that nine of the men had frozen their feet ; and within the next few days, no game having been killed, all came near starvation, but by good luck finally brought down a buffalo, which was immediately and hurriedly taken to camp. Pike writes, "We arrived there about twelve o'clock, and when I threw my load down, it was with difficulty I prevented myself from falling : I was attacked with a giddiness of the head, which lasted for some minutes. On the countenances of the men was not a frown, not a desponding eye ; all seemed happy to hail their officer and companions, yet not a mouthful had they eaten for four days." As a matter of fact, had it not been for the many buffaloes and deer wintering in the mountains, not a man would have survived to tell the tale. As it was, it must ever stand as a case of remarkable hardihood and endurance, rarely if ever sur- passed in the annals of western exploration.
It was found that the feet of two of the men, Thomas Dough- erty and John Sparks, were so badly frozen, that they could not proceed. They were accordingly left as comfortable as possible, and the others again set forth. "I furnished the two poor lads who were to remain, with ammunition, made use of every argu- ment in my power to encourage them to have fortitude to resist their fate, and gave them assurance of my sending relief as soon as possible. We parted, but not without tears." On the 24th Pike admits that for the first time he began to feel discouraged. Nearly all the buffaloes had quit the mountains, and the snow lay several feet on the level. On the 27th it was determined to leave one man, Hugh Menaugh, with the most of the goods, while the others made the effort to cross the Sangre de Cristo mountains, believing that by so doing they would reach the sources of Red river. This step was taken. They were now in the extreme southwestern corner of the present Custer county, Col. They set forth through the mountains, and in a short time found them-
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selves on a small stream (Sand creek) running west "which we hailed with fervency as the waters of Red river." Soon the broad San Luis valley opened before them. Ascending a large sand hill, Pike with his glass saw far ahead a large river flowing in a southerly direction ; this was believed to be the Red, and all were elated. Around were seen evidences of the late presence of Spaniards or other white men. They marched almost directly southward, and on the evening of January 30th arrived on the bank of the Rio Grande, believed by them to be the long-sought Red river. Not finding any timber, they continued to descend until they arrived at the Conejos, up which they ascended five miles and prepared to build a stockade, to be used as a base, while some of the party returned for the men who had been left behind. They accordingly erected a strong stockade of heavy cotton-wood logs on the north bank of the Conejos, of which Pike writes, "Thus fortified, I should not have had the least hesitation of "put- ting the one hundred Spanish horse (that arrived later) at defiance until the first or second night, and then to have made our escape under cover of the darkness ; or made a sally and dispersed them, when resting under a full confidence of our being panic- struck by their numbers and force." By February 15, the fort was practically complete. On the 7th, Corporal Jackson, with four men, was sent back over the mountains to bring up the bag- gage and the men who had been left behind.
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