USA > Massachusetts > Historical collections, being a general collection of interesting facts, traditions, biographical sketches, anecdotes, &c., relating to the history and antiquities of every town in Massachusetts, with geographical descriptions > Part 19
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The surface of this township is more varied than that of the other towns in the county. The northern and western part is uneven, having many hills, which afford an extensive prospect of the ocean, the sound, the Elizabeth Islands, the shore of Fal- mouth, and the country beyond the islands. The scene is enlivened by vessels which are continually passing. There are several pleasant and fertile valleys between the hills, about 2 miles from the sound, some of which afford iron ore. Considerable quantities of this ore have been exported to the forges on the main. Deli- vered at the sound it is worth about 2 dollars per ton. The stones and rocks which lie on these hills are granite; many of them are large, and some of singular shapes. Several at a distance might
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CHILMARK.
be mistaken for houses. One has a roof like a barn, another is almost a perfect cone, and is called the Sugar Loaf; and others are hollowed out in the form of a bowl. The soil is clay, inter- mixed with sand, the clay predominating. There are several plains which are sandy. Both the clayey and sandy places are stony. The land, properly manured, produces good crops of Indian corn, rye, oats, and potatoes. There is more grass land in this town than in other parts of the island. There are but a few brooks, and those small. Swamps are more numerous, lying mostly in the western part of the township, but are not very extensive. Several of them have been cleared and converted into meadows. The best land in the island is at Gay Head, which is reserved to the Indians. There are a number of ponds in the town, the largest of which is Chilmark Great Pond, which consists of two parts connected by an artificial creek, the length of which is 2 miles, east and west. There is a small pond near the north-west corner of the township, covering about an acre of ground, and situated on land 70 feet above high water, It is so deep that its bottom has never yet
Lighthouse at Gay Head, Chilmark, Martha's Vineyard.
been found. Most of the shore bordering this township is formed of cliffs of clay, of blue and red colors, disposed in layers. At the west end of the town and island, is a peninsula of about three and a half miles in length and one and a half in breadth, containing 2,400 acres, the north-west point of which is Gay Head, about 100 feet in height. This cliff is composed of clay and other substances, red, yellow, blue, indigo, black, and white; and to those who are on board a vessel sailing near the shore, especially after a rain, and when the sun shines on it, it is a brilliant and beautiful object ; hence it derived the name of Gay Head. A lighthouse which 'stands on it elevates a light 50 feet more above the level of the sea.
At Gay Head is the Devil's Den, which, notwithstanding the terror of its name, has nothing formidable in its appearance. It is a depression in the hill in the form of a
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CHILMARK.
bowl, except that it is open on the side next the sea, through which it is not difficult to descend to the strand. It is about 400 yards around, and 100 feet deep. If it was on the top of a mountain it might be called a crater. In this cavity, according to an Indian traditionary fable, many years before the English came to Martha's Vineyard, a giant, or tutelar deity, named Maushope, resided. Here he broiled the whale on a fire made of the largest trees, which he pulled up by the roots. Though a malignant spirit has now taken possession of his den, yet the first occupier was a benevolent being, and he kindly supplied the Indians with whales and other fish. After separating Noman's Land from Gay Head, metamorphosing his children into fishes, and throwing his wife on Saconet Point, where she still remains a misshapen rock, he went away, nobody knew whither. Perhaps the report that volcanic flames have been seen to ascend from the Devil's Den is as fabulous as the story of Maushope, as they have never been observed by any of the well-informed inhabitants. It has been suggested that the above story of the giant might have originated by the Indians finding fossil skeletons of large marine animals at that place, and from supposing the lignite which there abound to be the remains of his fires.
From Gay Head across to Cattahunk, a ledge of sunken rocks extends, known by the name of the Devil's Bridge, concerning the origin of which the Indians had the following tradition. The same famous giant Maushope undertook to build a bridge or cause- way there, and had thrown in the rocks and a shoefull of earth, which he scraped out from the Devil's Den, but, one day, while working in the water, a crab bit his toe, which so vexed him that he abandoned his project.
Gay Head is inhabited by descendants of the native Indians, who own there 2,400 acres of land, most of which is under good improvement. Their dwelling-houses, upwards of 35, are mostly one story, and are comfortably built. The number of their popu- lation is 235. Their church, which at present is of the Baptist denomination, is 148 years old, since the organization, and now consists of 47 communicants. Their present minister is Rev. Joseph Amos, an Indian, of Marshpee, entirely blind, but a preach- er of considerable ingenuity. Within a few years the condition of these people has much improved in point of temperance and gene- ral moral reformation. In this good cause, Simon Johnson, and Zacheus Hauwassowee are actively engaged.
THE ELIZABETH ISLANDS are separated from Martha's Vineyard by the sound, and from Falmouth by a strait called Wood's Hole. Beginning north-east, the first island is Nannamesset, which is a mile and a quarter long, and half a mile in breadth. It is inha- bited by 3 families, and has salt-works. In the S. W. part of the island is a high hill called Mount Sod. The next island, Onka- tomka, is three quarters of a mile in length, and half a mile in breadth. Between Nannamesset and Nashawn, towards the sound, are two small islands, called the Ram Islands. South-west from Nannamesset, and divided from it by the Gut, is Nashawn. This island is seven miles and a half long, and a mile and a quarter broad. The soil in the eastern part is a sandy loam and good, in the western part light and inferior. Nearly one half of the island is in wood and swamps. At half a mile distance, north of Nashawn, in Buzzard's Bay, are 3 small islands, called Wepecket Islands, the largest of which is not a quarter of a mile in length. West of Nashawn, and separated from it by a strait called Robinson's
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EDGARTOWN.
Hole, is Pasque Island, which is a mile and three quarters long. The soil is light, and more stony than the other Elizabeth Islands. South-west from Pasque, and separated from it by Quick's Hole, is Nashawenna, three miles and a quarter long, and a mile and a quarter broad. Cattahunk lies west of Nashawenna, from which it is separated by a shoal, and is two miles and a half long, and three quarters of a mile broad. The soil is rich and good. North of Cattahunk is Penequese, which is three fourths of a mile long, and half a mile broad. Three quarters of a mile east of Pene- quese is Gull Island, which is less than a fourth of a mile in length. The Elizabeth Islands are stony, but the soil is mostly good. Cattle are kept on all the islands, but they are the most noted for their sheep, which are larger and produce finer fleeces than those on Martha's Vineyard. Noman's Land belongs to Chilmark, and is situated 4 miles from Squibnocket Point, and six and a half from Gay Head. This island is a mile and three quarters long, and three quarters of a mile wide. The land is composed of hills of a moderate elevation, and of several small swamps. There are no trees, but there are bushes in the swamps, and in some of them there is peat. The soil of the upland is warm, and in general gravelly. The island is mostly used for the feeding of sheep. There are two dwelling-houses, and from 15 to 20 huts, which shelter the pilots, who go to the island, principally in the winter, to look out for vessels which are coming on the coast.
The number of sheep in the town of Chilmark, in 1837, was 6,470, of which 1,600 were merinos; the average weight of each fleece 2 lbs .; value of wool produced, $5,180. Population of the town, 699.
EDGARTOWN.
THIS town lies on the eastern part of Martha's Vineyard, and is 9 miles in length and 5 in breadth, exclusive of Chappequiddick island, which belongs to the town. This place is also known by the name of Oldtown. It is usually said to have been first settled by Thomas Mayhew and his company, in 1642; but it appears there were 10 or 12 English families settled at Edgartown before Mayhew went on to the island. These families first landed at Pease Point, which is a part of Starbuck Neck. The ship in which they came was bound to Virginia, but fell by accident into this port, and, being short of provisions, these families preferred. remaining and taking their chance with the Indians, to proceeding on the voyage. Four of their names have been handed down to us : Pease, Vincent, Norton, and Trapp, the three former of which still remain on the island. They landed late in the autumn, and were supplied during the first winter with fish and corn by the na- tives. Mayhew and his associates united with them, and laid out the land into 42 shares. There are circumstances which render it probable that Mayhew the younger had been on the island some time before the grant was obtained. The town was incorporated in
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EDGARTOWN.
1671, while under the government of New York, by Francis Love- lace, then governor of that colony.
The first church was gathered in 1641, and Thomas Mayhew ordained pastor. He died in 1657. Thomas Mayhew the father preached to the Indians, and also to the English, after the death of his son. Jonathan Dunham was ordained in 1694. Samuel Wiswall was ordained. in 1713. He died in 1746, and was suc- ceeded the next year by John Newman. He was dismissed in 1758, and succeeded by Samuel Kingsbury, (from Dedham;) ordained in 1761. Mr. Kingsbury died of small-pox in 1778, and the next pastor, Joseph Thaxter, was ordained in 1780, and conti- nued in that office till his death, in 1827.
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Eastern view of Edgartonn.
The village of Edgartown is pleasantly situated on the west side of the harbor, 91 miles S. E. of Boston, 20 N. W. by W. of Nan- tucket, 28 S. E. by E. of New Bedford, 20 S. of Falmouth, 495 from Washington. It is a county town and port of entry. Here is the court-house, and 3 churches : 1 Congregational, 1 Baptist, and 1 Methodist.
The annexed engravings are different views of the village of Edgartown. The above cut shows the appearance of the central part of the place, as it is seen from the island of Chappequiddick, lying eastward of the town. The engraving on the next page shows the appearance of the village as it is seen from the water, in a northern direction from the place. Eight vessels are employed in the whale fishery from this town. Population, 1,625.
Oldtown harbor is the strait between Martha's Vineyard and Chappequiddick Island. It is composed of two parts. The outer harbor extends from Cape Poge to Starbuck's Neck, and is 4 or 5 fathoms deep. From this neck the harbor winds to the south, and against the town is half a mile wide. This harbor is safe and excellent, and is esteemed one of the best in the United States. It
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EDGARTOWN.
is so much better than that of Nantucket, that the whalemen of that island come to this place to take in their water and fit out
#
tt Im # Ay
Northern vien of Edgartown.
their ships. The excellent water of this town is conveyed to them by troughs which run over the wharves, at the end of which the ships lie, and by hose is conveyed into the casks in the holds. The head of Edgartown harbor is Matakeeset Bay, which communicates with the ocean by a strait called Washqua outlet, 50 rods wide, and from 4 to 10 feet deep at high water. The surface of this town is mostly level. A plain extends from Starbuck's Neck 8 miles west, and is from 5 to 6 miles wide, and elevated about eighteen feet above the level of the sea. Round Edgartown harbor there are a few ele- vated spots, which rise from 60 to 75 feet above the sea. There is an elevation of land in this town, near the Tisbury line, of 120 feet, on which is situated a' pond of fresh water, of about 20 rods in length, and 10 in breadth, and 5 or 6 feet deep. It has never been known to be dry; and as there is no water, either salt or fresh, within 4 miles of it, it is of much utility. In this town there is no stream sufficiently large to carry a mill, and all the grinding of corn and grain is done by windmills. Salt is made here to a considerable extent. The water is raised by pumps worked by windmills, and is led along by troughs to the cisterns or vats, which are filled to the depth of 3 or 4 inches, in which it is dried down by the sun. The domestic manufacture of wool in this town is of considerable importance. Besides flannels and blankets, many thousand pairs of stockings, mittens, and caps or wigs, are annually made and sold. Fish of various kinds are taken in abundance in the harbor, coves, and ponds of this town. The herring fishery has become very profitable. Edgartown has at present 7 whale ships, 2 schooners, and S or 10 sloops and smacks.
CHAPPEQUIDDICK ISLAND lies on the east side of Edgartown harbor, and, including Cape Poge, is 6 miles long and 3 broad. The soil is sandy, but is thought to be more productive than the opposite land in Edgartown. There is some wood on the island, which is chiefly oak of various sorts. The east and north parts of the island
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TISBURY.
are level, but the west part rises into hills 60 feet high. Samp- son's hill in the center is 100 feet in height. On this island are about 50 families. The heads of several of these families, of the name of Fisher, living near Washqua Point, are celebrated as bold and skilful pilots. Ships in storms often get within the dangerous rips which lie off the island, and there appears to be. no retreat. These men are constantly on the watch for them. The sea rolls like moving mountains on the shore, and the surf breaks in a ter- rible manner. As the waves retire, five or six of them lift a whale- boat till they reach the surf, and then jump into it with almost in- credible alacrity. The boat frequently fills with water, and they are obliged to return to the land to bail the water out, and to carry the boat down again. When at last they are so fortunate as to float on the surge, to a person standing on the shore, they seem to mount up to the sky, and then suddenly sink into the deep. With hard rowing they reach the ship, which oftentimes is at the dis- tance of 7 or 8 miles. They come the messengers of safety, for with perfect ease they carry the ship into the harbor of Edgar- town, where it is secure against every wind.
At the time of the settlement, the Indians were very numerous in this town, perhaps more so than in other parts of the island. The Indians of Martha's Vineyard were hospitable, and more tractable than those on the main. Governor Mayhew and his son, as soon as they became settled, attempted to civilize them and introduce the gospel among them, and their success surprised and delighted the pious of that age. The younger Mr. Mayhew labored in this benevolent work with diligence and fervor till his death, in 1657, when it was assumed by his father, and in a few years by his son, and it was carried on by some member of the family till the beginning of the present century. Nearly all the Indians on the island became professed Christians. At first they were called catechumens, but were formed into a church in 1659, and from this, another church arose in. 1670.
The English found most essential advantages from the ascendency which was gained over their minds; they were disarmed of their rage, they were made friends and fellow-subjects. In King Philip's war, all the Indian nations on the main were con- federated against the English. Alarm and terror were diffused on every side, but Gov. Mayhew was so well satisfied with the fidelity of these Indians that he employed them as a guard, furnished them with the necessary ammunition, and gave them instructions how to conduct themselves for the common safety in this time of imminent danger. So faithful were they that they not only rejected the strong and repeated solicitations of the natives on the main to engage in hostilities, but when any landed from it, in obedience to their orders which had been given them, they carried them, though some- times their near relations, to the governor, to attend his pleasure. The English, con- vinced by these proofs of the sincerity of their friendship, took no care of their own defence, but left.it entirely to the Indians; and the storm of war which raged on the continent was not suffered to approach, but these islands enjoyed the calm of peace. This was the genuine and happy effects of Mr. Mayhew's wisdom and of the introduc- tion of the Christian religion among the Indians.
TISBURY.
THIS town comprehends the central part of the island, and is 10 miles long from north to south, and 5 miles in breadth. It was incorporated a township in 1671, at the same time with Edgartown, while under the government of New York. As an acknowledg- ment, the proprietors were to pay each and every year two barrels
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TISBURY.
of good merchantable codfish, to be delivered at Fort James, in New York. Before its incorporation it was known by the name of Middletown.
The precise time when the Congregational church was organ- ized is not known. John Mayhew began to preach at Tisbury in 1673, but was not ordained. Josiah Torrey was ordained in 1701 ; Nathaniel Hancock in 1727; George Damon in 1760, and was dis- missed about 1779. Asa Morse was installed in 1784, and dis- missed at his request in 1799. He was succeeded in 1801 by Nymphas Hatch.
There are two churches, 1 Congregationalist and 1 Methodist, situated in West Tisbury, 8 miles and a half from the court-house
Northern vien at Holmes' Hole, East Tisbury.
in Edgartown, and 85 S. S. E. of Boston. At Holmes' Hole, on the north side of the island, is a village, consisting of about 100 dwelling-houses. There are a Methodist and a Baptist church ; the last-mentioned was built in 1837. A few houses on the east chop of the harbor fall within the limits of Edgartown. Holmes' Hole is a good harbor. The depth of water is from S fathoms to 3; the bottom good holding ground, bluish clay. Several excel- lent pilots reside near the harbor. Wickataquay Pond communi- cates with Holmes' Hole by an opening which is only 4 rods wide and 7 feet deep at high water. It is supposed formerly to have been wider and deeper, and to have been a part of the harbor. The pond is 3 miles in length and 1 mile in width, and in several places 40 feet in depth. It is situated on the Edgartown side of the harbor. Newtown Pond, in the south part of Tisbury, is a mile and a half long, and has a natural communication with the sea, through which the tide rises and falls. The largest brooks in the island empty into the head of this pond, not more than 100 rods apart, one running from the west and one from the north- west. A small brook in this town discharges itself into Lam-
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ESSEX COUNTY.
bert's Cove. The wells in this town, and in other parts of the island, are not deep, the water in them being on a level with the sea. The common depth is from 15 to 20 feet. The water in them is soft and of a good quality, and will wash as well as rain water. The sandy beaches in every part of the island abound with fresh water, which can be obtained by digging a few feet. The surface of this town is mostly level plains. Around Holmes' Hole, however, are hills of moderate elevation, and a range of highland runs on the north side of the town parallel with the sound. Most of the improved land in this township is good and productive,
ESSEX COUNTY.
ESSEX COUNTY, the north-eastern section of Massachusetts, was incorporated as a county in 1643. It is thirty-eight miles long, and twenty-five miles wide; and is more densely populated than any other county of its size in the United States. It has an exten- sive sea-coast, the line of which is very uneven, being indented with numerous bays, inlets, and harbors. Much of the shore is rough and rocky, but it has here and there a sandy beach. There are also great tracts of salt marsh, which produce large quantities of grass. There are many hills in the county, but no mountains. The soil in many places is hard to cultivate, but is made produc- tive by the industry of the farmers. The principal river in the county is the Merrimac, which rises in New Hampshire; it passes through the northern section, three miles south of the New Hamp- shire line, and, owing to falls and rapids, is navigable only to Haverhill, about eighteen miles from its mouth. There is in this county a large amount of wealth, and its commerce and fisheries are very extensive. The manufacture of shoes, cloth, and other articles, is carried on to a considerable extent. Courts for the county are held at Salem, Newburyport, and Ipswich. The fol- lowing is a list of the towns, which are 27 in number.
Amesbury, Georgetown,
Manchester, Salem,
Andover, Gloucester,
Marblehead,
Salisbury, .
Beverly, Hamilton, Methuen, Saugus,
Boxford, Haverhill, Middleton, Topsfield,
Bradford, Ipswich,
Newbury, Wenham,
Danvers, Lynn,
Newburyport,
West Newbury.
Essex, Lynnfield,
Rowley,
In 1800 the population of the county was 61,196; in 1810 it was 71,888; in 1820 it was 74,655; in 1830 it was 82,887; and in 1837 it was 93,689.
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AMESBURY.
AMESBURY.
AMESBURY Was formerly a parish in the town of Salisbury, under the name of Salisbury New-Town. It took its name from a town in Wiltshire, England, and in the first records of the town it is writ- ten Almsbury. The town was incorporated in 1668. It is six miles in length and three in breadth, and is divided into three sec- tions : West Parish, or Jamaica, the Ferry, and Mills. The Ferry lies at the south-east extremity of the town, at the junction of Powow river with the Merrimac. Its name is derived from the ancient ferry which was established between this part of the town and Newbury. The river alters its course at this point from a north-east to a south-west direction. This was formerly the seat of considerable trade, and many large ships were owned in the place. Ship-building was also carried on extensively on the banks of the river, and some are still yearly launched. Shad and salmon were taken at this place; some are still caught, but they are becoming scarce. The Mills are situated at the north-eastern border -of the town, around the lower falls of the Powow, forming a continuous settlement with the north-western village of Salisbury, on the oppo- site side of the Powow. The width of the river is about 2 rods, and is crossed by a number of bridges. There are 5 dams at the Mills within a space of 50 rods; the aggregate fall of water is 70 feet. The stream is rapid, especially in freshet times, when its descent over the falls presents a beautiful scene. The stream is seldom exhausted; when so, Kimball's Pond has been dammed up, and converted into a reservoir. The canal which forms a communication between the pond and river is nearly an eighth of a mile in length. It has been made more than a century. A part of it forms a tunnel under a high hill, which is considered quite a curiosity. Water power in this place was applied to machinery at an early date. As far back as half a century there was a smelting- furnace, and much business carried on in the making of various kinds of tools and agricultural implements. Jacob Perkins' machine for cutting and heading nails, which was invented about 1796, was first used in this village. The town is hilly, and much of the natural scenery is of a picturesque character. Whittier, Bear, and the Pond hills, are the most elevated, and the prospect from them is very extensive and romantic. The soil of the town is of an average quality of the other soil in the county. The Amesbury Flannel Manufacturing Company, which was incorporated in 1822, with a capital of $200,000, have two large factories in ope- ration, one of which is for the manufactory of flannels, the other for satinets. The flannel mills have made annually 15,000 pieces of flannels, 46 yards each; the satinet mill, 5,000 pieces of sati- net, 25 yards each.
The following is a south-castern view of what is called the Mills Village, lying in the towns of Salisbury and Amesbury. For many purposes, the people on both sides of the Powow (the dividing line)
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AMESBURY.
act together as one town. The village, in both towns, is supposed to contain about 2,500 inhabitants. There are five churches : 2 Baptist, 1 Congregational, 1 for Friends, and 1 Episcopal. This place is 5 miles from Newburyport, 12 from Haverhill, 20 from Portsmouth, and 40 from Boston. Population of the town, 2,567.
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