USA > Massachusetts > Historical collections, being a general collection of interesting facts, traditions, biographical sketches, anecdotes, &c., relating to the history and antiquities of every town in Massachusetts, with geographical descriptions > Part 66
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The following is an account of the first visit of the English at Plymouth to Boston harbor, in the words of one of the party :-
"It seemed good to the company in general, that, though the Massachusetts (a tribe of Indians) had often threatened us, (as we were informed,) yet we should go amongst them, partly to see the country, partly to make peace with them, and partly to procure their truck. For these ends the governours chose ten men, fit for the purpose, and sent Tisquantum, and two other savages, to bring us to speech with the poo- ple, and interpret for us.
" [On the 18th of September, 1621, being Tuesday, ] we set out about midnight, the tide then serving for us. We, supposing it to be nearer than it is, thought to be there the next morning betimes; but it proved well near twenty leagues from New Plymouth. We came into the bottom of the bay, but being late, we anchored, and lay in the shaliop, not having seen any of the people. The next morning we put in for the shore. There we found many lobsters, that had been gathered together by the savages, which we made ready under a cliff, (Copp's hill, in Boston.) The captain sent two sentinels behind the cliff, to the land- ward, to secure the shallop, and taking a guide with him, and four of our company, went to seek the inhabitants, where they met a woman coming for her lobsters; they told her of them, and contented her for them. She told them where the people were. Tisquantum went to them; the rest returned, having direction which way to bring the shallop to themn.
" The sachem, or governour of this place, is called Obbatinewat, and, though he live in the bottom of the Massachuset Bay, yet he is under Massasoyt. He used us very kindly ; he told us he durst not remain in any settled place, for fear of the Tarentines; also the squaw sachem or Massachusets queen was an enemy to him. We told him of divers sachems that had acknowledged themselves to be King James his men, and if he also would submit himseif we would be his safeguard from his enemies; which he did, and went along with ns to bring us to the squaw sachem.
" Again we crossed the bay, which is very large and hath at least fifty islands in it, but the certain mim- ber is not known to the Inhabitants. Night it was before we came to that side of the bay where this pero- ple were,-that night also we rid at anchor aboard the shailop. On the morrow we went ashore all but two men, and marched in arms up the country. Having gone three miles, we came to a place where corn had been newly gathered, a honse pulled down, and the people gone. A mile from honce, Nanepas hernet, their king, in his lifetime had lived. His house was not like others, but i scaffold was largely built, with poles and planks, some six foot from ground, and the house upon that, being situated on the top of a hill.
" Not far from hence, in a bottom, we came to a fort built by their deceased king, the mminer thin : there were poles, some thirty or forty feet long, stuck in the ground as thick as they could be aet ono by another, and with these they enclosed a ring some forty or fifty feet over. A trench breast high war digged on each side; one way there was to go into it with a bridge. In the midst of this palimdo stood the frame of an house, wherein, being dead, he lay buried.
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" About a mile from hence we came to such another, but seated on the top of an hill; here Nanepashe- met was killed, none dwelling in it since the time of his death. At this place we staid, and sent two savages to look the inhabitants, and to inform them of our ends in coming, that they might not be fearful of us. Within a mile of this place they found the women of the place together, with their corn on heaps, whither we supposed them to be fled for fear of us, and the more, because in divers places they had newly pulled down their houses, and for haste in one place had left some of their corn, covered with a mat, and nobody with it.
" With much fear they entertained us at first, but seeing our gentle carriage towards them, they took heart and entertained us in the best manner they could, boiling cod and such other things as they had. for us. At length, with much sending for, came one of their men, shaking and trembling for fear. But when he saw that we intended them no hurt, but came to truck, he promised us with his skins also. Of him we inquired for their queen; but it seemed she was far from thence; at least we could not see her. Here Tis- quantum would have had us rifled the savage women, and taken their skins, and all such things as might . be serviceable for us ; for (said he) they are a bad people, and have oft threatened you. But our answer was, were they never so bad, we would not wrong them, or give them any just occasion against us ; for their words, we little weighed them, but if they once attempted any thing against us, then we would deal far worse than he desired. Having well spent the day, we returned to the shallop, almost all the women accompanying us to the shore. We promised them to come again to them, and they us to keep their skins.
" Within this bay the savages say there are two rivers; the one whereof we saw, having a fair entrance, but we had no time to discover it. Better harbours for shipping cannot be than here are. At the entrance of the bay are many rocks; and in all likelihood good fishing ground. Many, yea, most of the islands have been inhabited, some being cleared from end to end, but the people are all dead or removed. Our victual growing scarce, the wind coming fair, and having a light moon, we set out at evening, and, through the goodness of God, came safely home before noon the day following, with a considerable quantity of beaver, and a good report of the place, wishing we had been seated there."
About the year 1663, Boston was described in Johnson's " Won- der-working Providence" in the following manner :-
"Invironed it is with brinish flood, saving one small Istmos, which gives free access to the neighboring towns by land, on the south side, on the north-west and north east. Two constant fairs are kept for daily trafique thereunto. The form of this town is like a heart, naturally situated for fortifications, having two hills on the frontier part thereof next the sea, the one well fortified on the superficies thereof, with store of great artillery well mounted ; the other hath a very strong battery built of whole timber, and filled with earth. At the descent of the hill, in the extreme poynt thereof, betwixt these two strong arms, lies a cove or bay, on which the chief part of this town is built, overtopped with a third hill ; all these, like overtopping towers, keep a constant watch to see the approach of foreign dangers, being furnished with a beacon and loud babbling guns, to give notice by their redoubled echo to all the sister towns. The chief edifice of this city-like town is crowded on the sea-banks, and wharfed out with great labour and cost; the buildings beautiful and large, some fairly set forth with brick tile, stone and slate, and orderly placed with semely streets, whose continual enlargement presageth some sumptuous city. But now behold the admirable acts of Christ, at this his people's landing ; the hideous thickets in this place were such that wolves and bears nurst up their young from the eyes of all beholders, in those very places where the streets are full of girls and boys, sporting up and down with continued concourse of people. Good store of shipping is here yearly built, and some very fair ones. This town is the very mart of the land; Dutch, French, and Portugalls come here to trafique."
The city of Boston, the capital of Massachusetts and New Eng- land, in its present limits is naturally divided into three sections,- Boston, South Boston, and East Boston.
The peninsula on which Old Boston is built extends from Rox- bury on the south to Winnesimet ferry on the north, and is nearly surrounded by the waters of Boston harbor on the east and Charles river on the north and west. Its length is nearly three miles, and its average breadth about one mile. It originally contained about 700 acres, but its territory has been greatly extended, by filling up around its borders. Its surface is quite uneven. It has numerous eminences, rising from 50 to 110 feet above the sea, affording admi- rable sites for building, and giving it a striking appearance. It is in north Lat. 42° 21' 23", and west Lon. 71º 4' 9". It lies 163 miles S. S. W. from Augusta, Me .; 63 S. S. E. from Concord, N. H .; 160 S. E. by S. from Montpelier, Vt .; 158 E. (19' S.) from Albany, N. Y .; 40 N. N. E. from Providence, R. I .; 97 E. N. E. from Hart- ford, Ct .; 207 N. E. by E. from New York, and 432 miles N. E. by E. from Washington.
AVENUES .- The peninsular situation of Boston requires many artificial avenues to and from the surrounding country. Until 1786, the "Neck," between Boston and Roxbury, one mile and 117 feet in length, was the only passage to it by land. On the
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17th June, of that year, the Charles River Bridge, leading from Boston to Charlestown, was opened for travel. It was incorporated March 9, 1785. This bridge is 1,503 feet in length, 42 in breadth, and cost $50,000. Net revenue in 1834, $9,383. This bridge by its charter becomes state property in 1856.
West Boston Bridge, leading to Cambridge, was opened on the 23d of November, 1793. It was incorporated March 9, 1792. Length of the bridge, 2,758 feet ; abut- ment and causeway, 3,432 ; total length, 6,190 feet. Cost, $76,667. Net revenue in 1834, $12,928. This bridge will become state property in 1879.
South Boston Bridge, leading from Boston Neck to South Boston, was incorporated March 6, 1804, and opened for travel in July, 1805. Length, 1,550 feet ; width, 40. It cost the proprietors about $50,000. It is now city property, free.
Canal Bridge, from Boston to Lechmere Point, in East Cambridge, was incorporated February 27, 1807, and opened for travel in August, 1809 Length, 2,796 feet ; width, 40. A lateral bridge extends from this to Prison Point, Charlestown. Length, 1,820 ; width, 35 feet. Net receipts in 1834, $3,173. This bridge will become state property in 1879.
The Western Avenue, leading from Beacon street to Sewell's Point, in Brookline, was incorporatea June 14, 1814, and commenced in 1818. It was opened for travel July 2, 1821. This avenue is a substantial dam across Charles River bay, about a mile and a half in length, and from 60 to 100 feet in width. This dam encloses about 600 acres of flats, over which the tide formerly flowed from 7 to 10 feet. A partition dam divides this enclosure, and forms, by the aid of flood and ebb gates, a full and receiving basin ; thereby producing, at all times, a great hydraulic power. The cross dam also forms an excellent avenue from the main dam to Roxbury. Cost, about $700,000. Net receipts in 1834, $6,133. The proprietors of this avenue claim a per- petual franchise.
Boston Free Bridge, from Sea street to South Boston. Incorporated March 4, 1826 ; completed in 1828. Length, 500 ; width, 38 feet. Built by proprietors of lands in the vicinity. City property. Warren Bridge, leading to Charlestown. Length, 1,390 feet ; width, 44. Incorporated March 12, 1828, and opened on the December follow- ing. It is now state property. The net receipts of this bridge in 1834 were $16,427. All the above avenues are lighted with lamps, when necessary, and make a beautiful appearance.
Middlesex Canal passes in a northerly direction from Boston harbor, at Charlestown, through Medford, 5 miles from Boston, Woburn, 10,-Wilmington, 14,-to Lowell, at the locks and canals at that place, 27 miles. It was incorporated in 1789, and eon- pleted in 1808, at an expense of $828,000. Its breadth at the surface is 30 feet, at bottom 20, depth, 4 feet ; summit level, 104 feet above tide water, and 32 feet above the Merrimac at Lowell. This and other short canals on the Merrimac open a navi- gable communication between Boston and Concord, N. H. This was the first enter- prise of the kind attempted in the United States.
The Boston and Providence Railroad was incorporated in 1831. The road commences on the south-west side of the Common, in Boston, crosses the Worcester railroad, passes through Roxbury, the eastern part of Dedham, and western part of Canton, Sharon, Foxborough, Attleborough, and Pawtucket, to Seekonk, and terminates at India bridge, which crosses the Pawtucket river to Providence. It is 41 miles in length, and cost $1,150,000. (For a notice of the Lowell and the Worcester railroads, see those places.)
BOSTON HARBOR extends across Light-House Channel and Broad Sound, from Point Alderton on Nantasket to Point Shirley in Chelsea, a distance, between the islands, of about 4 miles. It is safe, and of ample capacity for the largest navy. The most important part of this harbor is entered by a narrow pass, between two and three miles below the city, and is well protected by two powerful forts-Independence and Warren. The outer harbor, below these forts, will shortly be protected by n very powerful fortress now ereeting on George's Island, at a great expense, by the govern- ment of the United States. Boston harbor contains many islands of great beauty, and is the reservoir of the Mystic, Charles, Neponset, Manatiquot, and other rivers. Its borders are environed by the towns of Hull, Hingham, Weymouth, Braintree, Quincy, Dorchester, Roxbury, Brookline, Cambridge, Charlestown, and Chelsea ; and the numerous small bays, coves, and inlets, indenting their shores, give great variety, and add much to the scenery of this delightful harbor.
Owing to the almost insular sitnation of Boston, and its limited extent, its popula- tion appears small. But it must be considered that the neighboring towns of Quincy, Dorchester, Milton, Roxbury, Brookline, Brighton, Watertown, Cambridge, Charles- town, Medford, Malden, and Chelsea, although not included in the city charter, are
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component parts of the city, and are as much associated with it in all its commercial, manufacturing, literary, and social relations and feelings, as Greenwich, Manhattan- ville, and Harlem are with the city of New York, or Southwark and the Northern Liberties with Philadelphia.
The population of Boston in 1700 was 7,000; 1722, 10,567; 1765, 15,520 ; 1790, 18,038 ; 1800, 24,937 ; 1810, 33,250 ; 1820, 43,298 ; 1830, 61,391; and in 1837, 80,325.
COMMERCE .- The citizens of Boston have ever sustained a high rank for their com- mercial enterprise. After whitening every sea with their canvass, and extending their commerce with all nations of the globe, they are now looking westward and northward, and constructing new and artificial channels, to enable them not only to compete with other Atlantic cities for the already immense commerce of the western world, but to intercept it on its passage down the St. Lawrence.
The number of vessels entered at this port the year ending September 30, 1837, was 1,544; tonnage, 242,277 tons ; crews, 11,503 ; cleared, 1,367; tonnage, 184,373 tons ; crews, 9,177. The registered, enrolled, and licensed tonnage of this port, the same year, was 201,005 tons. A large amount of tonnage, owned at Boston, is re- gistered at southern ports.
COMMERCIAL ACCOMMODATIONS .- There is probably no place in the world better ac- commodated for commercial operations than Boston. The whole length of the harbor on the east and north is lined with about 200 docks and wharves. A few of them only can be noticed.
India Wharf, at the foot of Fort Hill, was constructed in 1805. It extends into the harbor 980 feet, and is 246 to 280 feet in width. In the center is a range of 39 stores, 22 by 80, and 4 stories in height.
Central Wharf, between India and Long wharves, was built in 1816. In the center are 54 warehouses, 23 by 50, 4 stories high. It is 1,379 feet in length, and 150 in width. Over a spacious hall in the center of this range of stores, is one of the best observatories in the United States.
North of this is Long Wharf, at the foot of State street, commenced in 1710. This wharf extends into the harbor 1,800 feet, is 200 feet in width, and has 76 spacious warehouses. About the center of this wharf is a well of fresh water, 90 feet in depth.
Passing the City wharf on the north, we come to Commercial Wharf, 1,100 feet in length, and 160 in width. On the center of this wharf is a range of 34 granite ware- houses, 25 by 60 feet, and are unequalled by any thing of the kind in the United States for convenience or grandeur. Cost, $500,000.
On the west, and in front of this tier of wharves, which run into the harbor nearly parallel to each other, are India and Commercial streets, having the east end of Faneuil Hall Market nearly in the center. These streets are wide; they serve as wharves, and their west sides are covered with large and convenient stores. It is contemplated to extend India street, on the south, to the Free bridge on Sea street ; and Commercial street, on the north, to Winnesimet ferry.
The Marine Railways, established in 1826, at the north part of the city, afford great accommodations to those engaged in navigation. A new and splendid Custom-House is now erecting on India street, between Long and Central wharves. An Exchange, for the accommodation of merchants, and a new City Hall, are contemplated.
BOSTON COMMON .- This is considered one of the most delightful promenades in the world. It comprises about 75 acres of land, of variegated surface, beautifully shaded by trees of various kinds, particularly in the malls or walks which surround it. Some of those trees were planted more than a hundred years ago. The malls are wide, beveled, graveled, and smooth ; the waters of Charles river, and the romantic scenery beyond it, are in prospect. The whole is enclosed by an iron fence, on the outside of which are wide streets and beautiful buildings. The distance around the malls and common is about a mile .. This plot of ground is so held by the city, that it can never be appropriated to any other than its present healthful and pleasing purposes.
The foundation of a large and splendid BOTANIC GARDEN was laid in 1837, by the subscription of funds for that purpose. It is located on the city lands, on the west side of the Common. This will be a great ornament to the city, and an honor to the taste and judgment of its projectors.
SOUTH BOSTON .- This part of Boston was set off from Dorchester, by legislative enactment, March the 6th, 1804. It is bounded south by Dorchester bay, and spreads about two miles on the south side of the harbor, above the forts. It contains about 600 acres, and is laid out into regular streets and squares. The surface of this part of Boston is exceedingly picturesque. In about the center of this tract, and about two miles from the City Hall, the memorable "Dorchester Heights " rear their heads
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Northern view of part of South Boston.
130 feet above the sea, from which is presented a splendid view of Boston, its harbor, and the surrounding country. It is connected with Old Boston by two bridges. This part of Boston is rapidly increasing in population and wealth. The Washington House, (seen on the left, in the cut,) near the " Heights," is a noble building, having an exten- sive prospect in almost every direction. ›
The Houses of Industry, Correction, and Reformation are situated on a plot of ground of about 60 acres on the margin of the harbor, and near the brow of the " Heights," in South Boston. "The House of Industry is a large stone building, wholly devoted as a place of refuge for the poor, who are old, infirm, or otherwise unable to support themselves ; and as a workhouse for those who cannot, or will not, maintain themselves. This establishment is of the same character of that which stood on Park street many years ago, and which was removed to Barton's Point in 1800, where a beautiful building was erected for its accommodation, but which was sold, and the present house built in 1823. From the 7th of August, 1823, to June 2d, 1835, the number admitted to this house was 8,241. The number of admissions and re-admis- sions in 1834 was 979, besides 32 births in the house. There remained in the house, December 31, 1834, 610. ' 1,383 different individuals were inmates in 1834, for longer and shorter periods of time, (some of whom were out and in several times,) while only 237 have remained steadily in the house the whole year.' Of this number 600 were men, 404 women, 223 boys, and 153'girls. Of this number 71 men and 57 women were insane or idiotic, and 8 idiot children. Of this number 268 were · Bosto- nians, 274 were from other parts of the United States, and 841 were foreigners. It is observed by the superintendent, that 'there has been, for several years, a constant diminution of native Americans supported in the house, with more than a correspond- ing increase of foreigners. A large proportion of these travel into the state by land, from the British Provinces, and from other states.' The number of foreigners ad- mitted into this house in 10 years was 3,695.
" House of Correction. This house is a few rods cast of the House of Industry, and occupies at present only the easterly part of a large stone building. This is a county prison for convicts too young in vice to place in the state prison, but too old in vicious habits to require much less discipline. The commitments to this house are from the municipal and police courts. None exceed 8 years. The plan of the house, although at present limited in extent, is admirably fitted for its uses. It is on the plan of the Auburn prison, in the state of New York, which cannot well be described here. It is worthy of a visit from all classes of people, both good and bad ; it teaches solemn lessons ; and whilst we pity and deplore its convict inmates for their state of degra- dation, we cannot but admire that order and discipline by which so large a number of men and women are kept in such quiet subjection. The number of white males at this house Jannary Ist, 1834, was 160; white females, 85 ; colored males, 10; col- ored females, 13; total, 268. Of this number 84 belonged to Massachusetts, 63 weir from other states, and 121 were foreigners. On the first of January, 1835, there were at this house 178 white males, 74 white females, 14 colored males, and 20 colored
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females ; total, 286. Of this number 153 were people of the United States, and 133 foreigners.
" In the right wing of the latter building is the House of Reformation for Juvenile Offenders. The number is generally between 80 and 90. The above buildings are each 220 feet in length and 43 feet in width. A new building is erecting on the city land, south of these buildings, for a House of Reformation ; when it is completed, the House of Correction will occupy the whole of the present building. These houses are severally governed by boards of overseers."
South-western view of East Roston.
EAST BOSTON .- The above is a south-western view of part of East Boston, as seen from Lewis' wharf, East Boston ferryway. This section of the city, until recently, had been called Noddle's Island. It lies about 660 yards north-east from Old Boston, and about the same distance from Charlestown. It is divided from Chelsea by Chelsea Creek, 600 feet wide, over which is a bridge, and from which is an excellent road to the Salem turnpike. The Eastern railroad, to Salem, Newburyport, &c., commences at East Boston. The island contains about 660 acres of land, and a large body of flats. It was purchased by a company of enterprising gentlemen in 1832. They were incorporated in March, 1833, and the first house was commenced in October of the same year. A steamboat ferry is established between this place and Old Boston, starting from each side every ten minutes. The time occupied in crossing is about five minutes. A ferry is about being established between this island and Charles- town. The surface of the island is pleasingly variegated, and affords delightful sites for dwelling-houses and gardens at moderate prices. This place is well located for manufactories of various kinds ; particularly for ship-building, and all those branches of mechanics connected with navigation.
The Maverick Hotel, seen in the central part of the engraving, is a large and splen- did building, occupying a commodious site. This house is named in honor of Samuel Maverick, who owned the island and resided there in 1630, and who is said to have made " some figure in the history of after times-a man of very loving and courteous behavior, and very ready to entertain strangers."
FINANCES .- The public debt of the city of Boston on the first of May, 1837, was $1,497,200. The receipts, during the financial year, from the 30th of April, 1836, to 30th of April, 1837, was $926,350-the expenditures, $904,065. Besides the public property in public buildings, city and other wharves, &c. &c., both improved for city purposes and rented, the city has about 7,000,000 square feet of land on the Neck, ex- clusive of streets, public squares, and malls, and a very large property in other lands in various parts of the city, which are rapidly increasing in value. The amount of this property cannot be stated, but it is known greatly to exceed the city debt, exclusive of that part which is wanted for the uses of the city.
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