USA > Massachusetts > Historical collections, being a general collection of interesting facts, traditions, biographical sketches, anecdotes, &c., relating to the history and antiquities of every town in Massachusetts, with geographical descriptions > Part 6
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"Food can so easily be procured, either on the shores or in the sea, that, with the profit which arises from their voyages, in which it must be confessed they labor very
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DENNIS.
hard, the people are enabled to cover their tables well with provisions. A break- fast among the inhabitants, and even among those who are called the poorest, for there are none which may be called really poor, consists of tea or coffee, brown bread, generally with butter, sometimes without, and salt or fresh fish, fried or broiled. A dinner affords one or more of the following dishes: roots and herbs; salted beef or pork boiled ; fresh butcher's meat not more than twelve times a year ; wild fowl frequently in the autumn and winter; fresh fish boiled or fried with pork; shell- fish ; salt fish boiled; Indian pudding; pork baked with beans. Tea or coffee also frequently constitutes part of the dinner. A supper consists of tea or coffee, and fish, as at breakfast ; cheese, cakes made of flour, gingerbread, and pies of several sorts. This bill of fare will serve, with little variation, for all the fishing towns in the county. In many families there is no difference between the breakfast and supper ; cheese, cakes, and pies being common at the one as at the other.'
DENNIS.
THIS town was formerly the eastern part of Yarmouth. It was set off as a distinct parish in that town in 1721; and was incorpo- rated into a town in 1793. The church was gathered, and the first pastor, Rev. Josiah Dennis, was ordained, in 1727. Mr. Den- nis died in 1763, and was succeeded by Rev. Nathan Stone, who was ordained in 1764. The inhabitants have manifested their respect for Mr. Dennis, their first minister, by naming the town after him.
The soil of this town, with the exception of a few small spots, is sandy and unproductive. Scargo Hill, in the north part of the township, is the highest land in the county, and is the first which is made by seamen when approaching the south shore.
In 1837, the number of "vessels employed in the cod and mack- erel fishery, 18; tonnage of the same, 1,037; codfish caught, 9,141 quintals; value of the same, $25,137; mackerel caught, 4,684 barrels; value of the same, $25,762; salt used, 16,691 bushels ; hands employed, 247; capital invested, $29,682." It is stated that there is more navigation owned in Dennis, than in any other town in the county; and a large portion of it is owned on the south side. North Dennis, on the north side, was first settled, but within the last twenty years the south side has become much the largest. There are two organized societies in this part of the town, one Methodist and one Congregationalist. The Congregationalist society was organized with twenty members, in 1817, under the ministry of Rev. John Sanford, the present pastor. Distance, 8 miles easterly from Barnstable, and by water about 60 miles S. E. of Boston. Population 2,750.
About 60,000 bushels of salt, and 500 barrels of Epsom salts, are annually made in this town. The first salt produced by solar eva- poration in this country appears to have been made by Capt. John Sears, of this place, in 1776. During the revolutionary war, many persons here and elsewhere on the coast, applied themselves to the business of making salt. The process consisted in evapo- rating sea water from large boilers by fire. The quantity obtained in this manner was necessarily small, and the consumption of fuel great.
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DENNIS.
The cut shows the appearance of the salt vats which are so numerous on Cape Cod. It will be perceived the covers or roofs of two of these vats are connected by a beam or crane. Dr. Dwight, who visited the Cape in 1800, says, " A Mr. Kelly, hav- ing professedly made several improvements in the means of accom- plishing this business, obtained a patent, about two years before this journey was taken, for making salt-works on the plan gene- rally adopted in this region. Of these the following is a descrip- tion. Vats, of a number suited to the owner's design, 20 feet
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Apparatus used in making Salt.
square, and 10 or 12 inches in depth, are formed of pine planks, an inch and a half thick, and so nicely joined as to be water-tight. These are arranged into four classes. The first class, or that next to the ocean, is called the water room; the second, the pickle room ; the third, the lime room; and the fourth, the salt room. Each of these rooms, except the first, is placed so much lower than the preceding, that the water flows readily from it to another, in the order specified. The water room is filled from the ocean by a pump furnished with vans or sails, and turned by the wind. Here it continues until of the proper strength to be drawn into the pickle room, and thus successively into those which remain. The lime, with which the water of the ocean abounds, is deposited in the lime room. The salt is formed into small crystals in the salt room, very white and pure, and weighs from 70 to 75 pounds a bushel. The process is carried on through the warm season. After the salt has ceased to crystallize, the remaining water is suf- fered to freeze. In this manner, a large quantity of Glauber's salt is obtained in crystals, which are clean and good. The residuum is a strong brine, and yields a great proportion of marine salt, like that already described. To shelter the vats from the dews and rains, each is furnished with a hipped roof, large enough to cover it entirely. The roofs of two vats are connected by a beam turn- ing upon an upright post, set firmly in the ground, and are moved easily on this pivot by a child of fourteen, or even twelve years. To cover and uncover them, is all the ordinary labor."
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EASTHAM.
EASTHAM.
THE original Indian name of Eastham was Nauset. After being purchased from the natives, it was granted by the court to the set- tlers at Plymouth, in 1644. This included the present town- ships of Eastham, Wellfleet, and Orleans. Some of the principal settlers were Thomas Prince, John Doane, Nicholas Snow, Josias Cook, Richard Higgins, John Smalley, and Edward Bangs : these persons are said to have been among the most respectable inhabitants of Plymouth. The settlement commenced the year (1644) the grant was made, and was incorporated as a town in 1646. A church was gathered soon after their arrival, but the inhabitants were not sufficiently numerous to support a minister till 1672, when Rev. Samuel Treat, of Milford, Con. was ordained.
Ancient Pear Tree in Eastham.
The above is a representation of an ancient pear tree, on the land now owned by Mr. Nathan Kenny, twenty-one miles from Barnstable court-house. It was brought from England by Thomas Prince, for many years governor of Plymouth colony. Governor Prince removed from Duxbury to Eastham in 1640 or 1645, and, leaving Eastham, returned to Plymouth in 1665, so that this tree, planted by him, is now probably about two hundred years old. It is still in a vigorous state. The fruit is small, but excellent; and it is stated that it yields annually, upon an average, fifteen bushels of fruit. Governor Prince's house stood about thirty or forty rods eastward of this place. Mr. Treat, the first minister, lived about one fourth of a mile to the north-east. The house seen in the engraving stands on the site formerly occupied as a garrison house.
This town is situated on a narrow part of the peninsula of Cape Cod, and the soil, for the most part, is but a barren waste of sand. In an account given of the town in 1802, it is stated, "On the west side, a beach extends to Great Pond, where it stretches
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EASTHAM.
across the township almost to Town Cove. This barren tract, which does not now contain a particle of vegetable mould, for- merly produced wheat. The soil, however, was light. The sand, in some places, lodging against the beach grass, has been raised into hills fifty feet high, where twenty-five years ago no hills existed. In others, it has filled up small valleys and swamps. Where a strong-rooted bush stood, the appearance is singular : a mass of earth and sand adheres to it, resembling a small tower. In several places, rocks which were formerly covered with soil are disclosed, and, being lashed by the sand, driven against them by the wind, look as if they were recently dug from a quarry." There are two churches, one Methodist and one Con- gregational. Population 1,059. Distance, twenty-three miles north-easterly from Barnstable, and, in a straight line, sixty-eight miles from Boston. In 1837, there were fifty-four establishments for the manufacture of salt, which produced 22,370 bushels; thirteen vessels employed in the cod and mackerel fishery; 1,200 quintals of cod-fish and 4,550 barrels of mackerel were caught.
Mr. Treat, the first minister in this town, was distinguished for his evangelical zeal and labors, not only among his own people, but also among the Indians in this vicinity; and he was the instrument of converting many of them to the Christian faith. He learnt their language, and once a month preached in their villages, visited them at their wigwams, and, by his kindness and affability, won their affections : they venerated him as their pastor, and loved him as their father. In 1693, Mr. Treat states that there were four Indian villages in the township under his care. These Indians had four teachers of their own choice and four schoolmasters. They also had of their own people six magistrates, who regulated their civil affairs; they held stated courts and punished criminals. There were five hundred adult persons in the villages, all of whom attended public worship. But notwithstanding every exertion made for the benefit of the Indians, they wasted away by fatal diseases and other causes, so that in 1764 they were reduced to four individuals only. Mr. Treat, having passed near half a century of most active labor, died soon after the remarkable storm, distinguished in the annals of New England by the name of the Great Snow, in February, 1717. The wind blew with violence; and whilst the grounds about his house were left entirely bare, the snow was heaped up in the road to an uncommon height. It was in vain to attempt making a path. His body was therefore kept several days, till an arch could be dug, through which he was borne to the grave; the Indians, at their earnest request, being permitted in turn to carry the corpse, and thus to pay the last tribute of respect to the remains of their beloved pastor. The second minister of Eastham was the Rev. Samuel Osborn, who was educated at the University of Dublin, and ordained here in 1718; the next year, the church being divided into two, Mr. Osborn removed into the south part of the township, and Rev. Benjamin Webb was ordained pastor of
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44
FALMOUTH.
the church that remained. Mr. Webb died in 1746, and was suc- ceeded by Rev. Edward Cheever, who was ordained in 1751. Mr. Cheever was succeeded by Rev. Philander Shaw, who was ordained in 1795.
The following is the inscription on the monument of Mr. Treat, the first minister.
Here lyes interred ye body of ye late learned and Revd. Mr. Samuel Treat, ye pious and faithful pastor of this church, who, after a very zealous discharge of his ministry for ye space of 45 years, & a laborious travel for ye souls of ye Indian nativs, fell asleep in Christ, March ye 18, 1716-17, in ye 69 year of his age.
FALMOUTH.
THIS town, forming the south-western extremity of the peninsula of Cape Cod, was incorporated in 1686. Mr. Samuel Shireick labored in this place as a minister previous to 1700. Rev. Joseph Metcalf, who graduated at Cambridge, was chosen minister. He died in 1723, and was succeeded by Mr. Josiah Marshall. Rev. Samuel Palmer was ordained in 1731, and was succeeded by Mr. Zebulon Butler, who was ordained in 1775, and dismissed in 1778. The next minister, Rev. Isaiah Mann, was ordained in 1780, and died in 1789. Rev. Henry Lincoln was ordained in 1790 and dismissed in 1823. His successor, Rev. Benjamin Wood- bury, was ordained in 1824, and dismissed in 1833. The next minister was Rev. Josiah Bent, who was installed in 1834, and dis- missed in 1837, and was succeeded by Rev. Henry B. Hooker, who was installed the same year. The Congregational church in East Falmouth was organized in 1810, and the one in North Falmouth in 1833.
The town is bounded on the west by Buzzard's Bay, and on the south by Vineyard Sound. A chain of hills, which is continued from Sandwich, runs on the west side of the township, near Buz- zard's Bay; and terminates at " Wood's Hole," a harbor at the south-western point of the town. The rest of the land in this township is remarkably level. The soil is thin, but superior in quality to the light lands in the eastern part of the county. An extensive pine forest is situated between the villages of Falmouth and Sandwich. There are not less than forty ponds in the town- ship, and give a great variety to the scenery.
The engraving shows the appearance of Falmouth village, as it is seen from an elevation to the westward, on the road leading- to Wood's Hole. The village, which is one of the handsomest on the Cape, consists of about one hundred dwelling-houses, two churches, (one Congregational and one Methodist, ) an academy, and the Falmouth Bank, with a capital of $100,000. The village is twenty-two miles from Barnstable, eighteen from Sandwich, and seventy-one from Boston. Wood's Hole is four miles to the south- west; at this place there is a village, and ships of the largest class. can go up to the wharf. The landing at Falmouth village is about three fourths of a mile from the Congregational church.
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HARWICH.
The mail is carried over from this place to Holmes's Hole, on Martha's Vineyard, three times a week, in a sail-boat. The dis- tance between the two landings is seven miles.
West view of Falmouth Village.
Two streams afford a water power, on which are two woollen mills, having three sets of machinery. There are five houses of worship : three Congregational, one for Friends or Quakers, and one Methodist. Population 2,580. In 1837, there were "nine vessels employed in the whale fishery; tonnage of the same, 2,823; sperm oil imported, 4,952 barrels, (148,560 gallons); whale oil, 275 barrels, (8,250 gallons); hands employed in the fishery, 250; capital invested, $260,000; salt manufactured, 35,569 bushels."
The following is copied from monuments in the village grave- yard :-
Here lies interred the body of the Rev. Samuel Palmer, who fell asleep April ye 13th, 1775, in the 68th year of his age, and 45th of his ministry.
His virtues would a monument supply, But underneath these clods his ashes lie.
In memory of Capt. David Wood, who died in his 42d year, in Cape Francois, August 10th, 1802, of the yellow fever, with 4 of his men.
He's gone, the voyage of human life is o'er,
And weeping friends shall see his face no more.
Far from the tenderest objects of his love
He dies, to find a happier world above. Around this monument his friends appear, To embalm his precious memory with a tear.
His men who died were Edward Butler, aged 15 years, and Prince Fish, aged 19 years, both died August 10; Henry Green, aged 20 years, Willard Hatch, aged 12 years, both died August 17.
These hopeful youths with life are called to part,
And wound afresh their tender parents' heart.
HARWICH.
THE original town of Harwich extended across the peninsula of Cape Cod. What is now called Harwich, was the second society
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MARSHPEE.
of old Harwich, being the southern part of the town. In 1803, the first society of Harwich was incorporated into a distinct town, by the name of Brewster. The land in this township is generally level and sandy. On Herring river, the outlet of Long Pond, are a cotton mill and carding-machine. There are in the limits of the town four churches : one Baptist, one Congregational, and two Methodist. The Rev. Mr. Pell was the first Congregational minis- ter in this town; he was succeeded by Mr. Mills. The third minister, Rev. Nathan Underwood, was ordained here in 1792. Population, 2,771. Distance, thirteen miles easterly from Barn- stable court-house, eight to Chatham Lights, and about eighty from Boston. "Vessels employed in the cod and mackerel fishery, 20; tonnage of the same, 1,300; codfish caught, 10,000 quintals ; value of the same, $30,000; mackerel caught, 500 barrels; value of the same, $3,000; salt used, 9,000 bushels; hands employed, 200; capital invested, $60,000."
House on Cape Cod.
Dr. Dwight, who travelled through the whole length of the peninsula of Cape Cod, thus describes what he says "may be called with propriety Cape Cod houses." "These have one story, and four rooms on the lower floor; and are covered on the sides, as well as the roofs, with pine shingles, eighteen inches in length. The chimney is in the middle, immediately behind the front door, and on each side of the door are two windows. The roof is straight; under it are two chambers ; and there are two larger and two smaller windows in the gable end. This is the general struc- ture and appearance of the great body of houses from Yarmouth to Race Point. There are, however, several varieties, but of too little importance to be described. A great proportion of them are in good repair. Generally they exhibit a tidy, neat aspect in themselves and in their appendages, and furnish proofs of comfort- able living, by which I was at once disappointed and gratified. The barns are usually neat, but always small."
MARSHPEE.
THIS ancient Indian territory is an incorporated district of the commonwealth, and contains 10,500 acres, or about sixteen square
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MARSHPEE.
miles. This tract was procured for the Indian's by the efforts of Mr. Richard Bourne, of Sandwich. This noble-hearted man, who deserves to be had in lasting remembrance, was a native of Eng- land, and soon after his arrival at Sandwich began his labors for the temporal and spiritual good of the Indians. About the year 1660, at his own expense, Mr. Bourne obtained a deed of Marshpee from Quachatisset and others for the benefit of the Marshpee, or, as they were then called, South Sea Indians. In order that the Indians might have a place where they might remain in peace from generation to generation, Mr. Bourne had the deed or instru- ment drawn, "so that no part or parcel of them [the lands] could be bought by or sold to any white person or persons, without the consent of all the said Indians, not even with the consent of the general court." This deed, with this condition, was ratified by the Plymouth court. Mr. Bourne, after having obtained the above deed, pursued his evangelical work, and was ordained pastor of an Indian church in this place in 1670, formed of his own disciples and converts. He died about 1685, and was succeeded by Simon Popmonet, an Indian preacher, who lived in this character about forty years, and was succeeded by Mr. Joseph Bourne, grandson of Richard, who was ordained over them in 1729, who resigned his mission in 1742, and was succeeded by Solomon Briant, an Indian preacher, who was ordained pastor. In 1758, Rev. Gideon Hawley was installed as pastor of these people.
Marshpee lies south of Sandwich, and is bounded on the south by the ocean. It is well fitted for an Indian residence, being indent- ed by two bays, and shoots into several necks or points of land. It is also watered by several streams and ponds. These, with the ocean, afford an abundant supply of fish of various kinds. They formerly subsisted by agricultural pursuits, the manufacturing of various articles of Indian ware, by the sale of their wood, fishing, fowling, and taking deer. Their land is good, well wooded, and some parts of it afford beautiful scenery. There are about three hundred colored people on this tract, and some whites. There are but very few of the Indians which retain pure blood of their ancestors. They generally appear to relish moral and religious instruction. The central part, is about twelve miles S. E. of Barn- stable, nine S. of Sandwich, and sixty-five S. E. of Boston.
The following cut represents the Indian church, built under the direction of the Rev. Mr. Hawley, the missionary, and is about twelve miles from Barnstable court-house. It stands a short dis- tance from the main road, and a forest has grown up around it. Public worship is kept up in this house, which is attended both by the whites and Indians. Previous to 1834, the government of the Indians consisted of a board of white overseers, a guardian and treasurer. The office of the guardian was that of a general superintendent, to disburse supplies, oversee the poor, and regu- late the getting of wood, &c. The Indians getting dissatisfied, the government was changed, and it now consists of three select- men, a clerk of their own number and choice, and a white com-
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ORLEANS.
missioner appointed by the governor and council. Many of the Indians are employed in the whale fisheries, and they are said to make the first-rate whalemen. Those who remain at home cul- tivate their little plats of ground and carry wood to market. In 1837, they built a small vessel, "owned partly by some of the proprietors of Marshpee, and partly by sundry white persons," and commanded by a capable, enterprising Indian. This vessel is employed in carrying their wood to Nantucket. The land, except some small allotments, (as much as each can enclose and cultivate, ) is common stock. Each has a certain amount of wood allowed for his own use, and he pays the Indian government one dollar per cord for all he cuts and carries to market.
South-west view of the Indian Church in Marshpee.
The Indian grave-yard is by the side of their church, represented in the engraving. Nearly all the graves are without monuments. The following inscriptions are copied from two monuments stand- ing in this place.
In memory of deacon Zacheus Popmunnet died 22d Octr. 1770 aged 51 years. The Righteous is more excellent than his neighbor.
In memory of Flora Hawley obit 31st Jany. 1785 aged 40 years. A faithful servant.
ORLEANS.
THIS town was formerly the south part of Eastham ; it was in- corporated into a township by the name of Orleans in 1797. Rev. Samuel Osborn, who was ordained at Eastham in 1718, was the first minister in this place, removing here the next year after his ordina- tion. "Mr. Osborn was a man of wisdom and virtue. Besides teaching his people the use of peat, he contributed much to their prosperity by introducing new improvements in agriculture, and by setting them the example of economy and industry. But his good qualities and services did not avail him; for, embracing the
Drawn by J. W. Barber-Engraved by S. E. Brown, Boston. NORTH-EASTERN VIEW OF PROVINCETOWN, MASS.
The above shows the appearance of Provincetown as it is seen from the north-eastern extremity of the village, which extends nearly two miles along the shore. The numerous wind or salt mills, and the elevations of sand, give this place a novel appearance.
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PROVINCETOWN.
religion of Arminius, his parishioners, who still retained the faith of Calvin, thought proper to dismiss him about the year 1737. From Eastham he removed to Boston, where he kept a private grammar-school. He died aged between ninety and a hundred." Mr. Osborn was succeeded by Rev. Joseph Crocker, who was or- dained in 1739. Mr. Crocker died in 1772, and was succeeded by Rev. Jonathan Crocker the same year.
Orleans is of very irregular form, the lines being deeply indent- ed with coves and creeks. There are several islands in Pleasant Bay which belong to this town, the largest of which is Pochet, and is perhaps the best land in the township. The face of the land is uneven ; but the hills are not very high, and the soil is generally barren and sandy, and the roads here, as in most towns in this vicinity, are, on account of the sand, tedious and heavy. There are 4 churches in the town, 1 Congregational, 1 Baptist, 1 Metho- dist, and 1 Universalist. Population 1,936. Distance 20 miles easterly from Barnstable and 85 S. E. from Boston. There were in 1837 fifty establishments for the manufacture of salt, which manu- factured 21,780 bushels ; 33 vessels were employed in the cod and mackerel fishery ; 20,000 quintals of cod-fish and 6000 barrels of mackerel were taken. In the fishery, 264 hands were employed.
The following is from an account of Orleans in the Collections of the Mass. Hist. Soc. Sept. 1802 :-
" Clams are found on many parts of the shores of New England, but nowhere in greater abundance than at Orleans. Formerly five hundred barrels were dug here for bait; but the present year 1000 barrels have been collected. Between one and two hun- dred of the poorest of the inhabitants are employed in this business ; and they receive from their employers three dollars a barrel for digging the clams, opening, salting them, and filling the casks. From 12 to 18 bushels of clams in the shell must be dug, to fill, when opened, a barrel. A man by this labor can earn seventy-five cents a day; and women and children are also engaged in it. A barrel or clams are worth six dol- lars ; the employers, therefore, after deducting the expense of salt and the casks, which they supply, still obtain a handsome profit. A thousand barrels of clams are equal in value to six thousand bushels of Indian corn, and are procured with no more labor and expense. When therefore the fishes, with which the coves of Orleans abound, are also taken into consideration, they may justly be regarded as more beneficial to the inha- bitants, than if the space which they occupy was covered with the most fertile soil."
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