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ENEALOGY COLLECTION
ALLEN COUNTY PUBLIC LIBRARY 3 1833 01053 5216
O five generations of Missouri Newspaper men who have writ- ten day by day the live history of the Center State.
MARBLE STATU E OF JEFFERSON IN MEMORIAL HALL AT ST. LOUIS Unveiled by descendant of Thomas Jefferson, April 30, 1913.
MISSOURI
THE CENTER STATE 1821-1915
By WALTER B. STEVENS
"The spirit of Missouri is the spirit of progress, tempered by conservatism. It rejects not the old because of its age, nor refuses the new because it is not old. It is the spirit of a community, conscious of its own secure position, some- what too careless at times of the world's opinion, hospitable, generous, brave. The dream of the greatest statesman is a nation of useful citizens dwelling in happy homes. In Missouri the dream finds realization. The noble Latin motto of the State has ever expressed-and does-the spirit of the united citizenship : 'Let the welfare of the people be the supreme law.'"-Walter Williams.
ILLUSTRATED
VOLUME I
CHICAGO-ST. LOUIS THE S. J. CLARKE PUBLISHING COMPANY 1915
COPYRIGHT, 1915 By THE S. J. CLARKE PUBLISHING COMPANY
(S1011/09/10 ?-
1142987
"I see here one State that is capable of assuming the great trust of being the middle main, the mediator, the common center between the Pacific and the Atlantic-a State of vast extent, of unsurpassed fertility, of commercial facilities that are given to no other railroad State on the continent, a State that grapples hold upon Mexico and Central Amer- ica on the south and upon Russia and British America on the north; and through which is the only thoroughfare to the Golden Gate of the Pacific. It is your interest to bind to Missouri the young States of the Pacific of this Continent, while they are yet green and ten- der, and hold them fast to you. When you have done this and secured the Pacific States firmly, you will have bound the Atlantic to the Pacific Coast, and have guaranteed an em- pire such as Alexander failed to conquer, and Bonaparte tried in vain to reduce under one common scepter, as his predecessor, Charlemagne, had done. And it will be the glory of Missouri to see established firmly the empire of the Republican Government of America over the entire Continent of North America. And in saying what I do, I do not exclude the region which lies between us and the North Pole. And I dare not say where I would draw the line on the south."-William H. Seward, Secretary of State, 1861-9, in an Address at St. Louis.
MISSOURI, THE CENTER STATE
The Center State! Two States distant on the south lies the Gulf. Two States north brings the Canadian border. Five States eastward is the Atlantic. By the same count of commonwealths westward the Pacific is reached. Missouri is the geographical heart of the Union. But much more than that is Missouri the Center State.
In the garb of a national issue Missouri was received into the Union. When Robert M. Stewart was governor, in the term preceding 1861, he described Mis- souri as "a peninsula of slavery running out into a sea of freedom." The Missouri Compromise was a political shibboleth of two generations. For forty years Missouri was the Center State while the issue of slavery grew into an impending crisis.
In that period the growth in population, in trade relations, in development of resources, in culture, was marvelous. Then came war-Missourian against Missourian.
A battle, according to the Civil war definition, was an engagement in which ten or more soldiers were killed or wounded. Of the 2,261 battles of the Civil war 244, more than one-tenth, were in Missouri. The Center State is credited with having sent 109,000 men into the Union armies. This was a number larger than any of the other States except New York, Pennsylvania, Ohio, Illinois, Indiana and Massachusetts.
When Price was transferred to the east side of the Mississippi in April, 1862, about 5,000 Missourians went with him. Arriving at Beauregard's headquarters near Corinth, they formed the Ist and 2d Missouri Confederate brigades. With other battalions which went from Missouri these brigades numbered about 10,000 men. They fought their last battle on the day Lee surrendered in April, 1865. At that time they had been reduced to 400 men. General James Harding estimated the Missourians who fought in the Confederate armies west of the Mississippi at about 16,800, formed into six regiments of infantry, ten of cavalry and eight bat- teries. With all of the recruits added from time to time the Missourians who fought outside of their own State for the Confederacy numbered more than 30,000.
The 139,000 who went into the armies on both sides were fourteen per cent of the entire population or sixty per cent of all within the military age.
Of the Missourians who went into the Union Army the death losses were 13,885. The mortality of the Confederate Missourians was estimated at 12,000. These losses of 25,885 do not take into account those sustained by the bush- whacking warfare of the home guards and guerrillas within the State, which have been reported as numbering at least 12,000.
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MISSOURI, THE CENTER STATE
Missourians faced Missourians at Vicksburg in numbers as on no other battle- field after Pea Ridge. When the commission appointed to mark the lines and to erect a monument to those who fell consulted the records they were amazed at the magnitude of Missouri's share in the Vicksburg campaign. On the Federal side the State was represented by twenty-five organizations ; on the Confederate, by seventeen.
The army of 12,000 Confederates under Price which entered Missouri in September, 1864, marched 1,434 miles, fought forty-three battles and destroyed $10,000,000 worth of property.
At the close of the Civil War in 1865 Missouri had a debt of $36,094,908.
Missouri's property losses directly from the Civil war were many millions, not counting the value of the slaves. In 1860 the taxable wealth of the State was $500,000,000. In 1868, after the State had had three years of recuperation, the taxable wealth was $46,000,000 less than it was before the war.
The incidents, the details of the conflict which went on in Missouri from 1861 to 1865, are almost incredible. They are shocking. But recalling of them is justified by what followed. Almost as quickly as the storm of war burst came the calm of peace-the perfect restoration of law and order. Nowhere else along the border, nowhere else in the country, were the wounds healed, the scars re- moved, so rapidly as in Missouri.
Missourians in the fullest sense accepted the result of arms. Standing beside the statues of the two great Unionists, Benton and Blair, in statuary hall at the national capitol, Vest, who had been on the opposite side in the issue of state's rights, and who had been a Confederate Senator, said solemnly and fervently :
"These men sleep together in Missouri soil almost side by side, and so long as this capitol shall stand or this nation exist their statues will be eloquent although silent pledges of Missouri's eternal allegiance to an eternal Union."
In a decade Missouri had recovered from the strife and the desolation, and was prospering. Then came to test.the sturdy character of Missourians a revolu- tion in material conditions. The great system of water transportation in relation to which Missouri held the central advantage among the States was supplanted by rails. No other State has been called upon to adapt itself in such short time to such radical changes.
The center of population of the United States is moving with singular regu- larity toward Missouri. Unless there should be a radical change in the growth of the country the center will be in this State, a short distance north of the mouth of the Missouri River. For more than one hundred years this center has moved in a narrow path. In 1790 it was east of Baltimore about twenty-three miles. In 1910 it was very close to the Illinois line in the western part of the city of Bloom- ington, Indiana. It was in approximately the same latitude as it was 120 years before. The center has moved westward each decade, varying distances from a minimum of thirty-six miles to a maximum of eighty-one miles. From 1900 to 1910 the movement was thirty-nine miles.
In population Missouri was twenty-third of the twenty-six States when ad- mitted. In ten years Missouri took twenty-first place. In 1840 Missouri was sixteenth. In 1850 Missouri was thirteenth. In 1870 Missouri reached fifth place and held it. In the first decade of statehood, Missouri more than doubled in population. In the second decade the population nearly trebled. Between 1850
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MISSOURI, THE CENTER STATE
and 1860 with a great foreign immigration Missouri's population was almost doubled again. Passing 1,000,000 about 1860, the State added 500,000 to the population in the next ten years. For each of the three decades following the increase was about 500,000. From 1900 to 1910 the addition was not quite 200,000.
Even more interesting than the numbers is the character of this population. In 1860, when Missouri had about 1,200,000 people, 160,000 of them were foreign born. In 1910, a half century later, when Missouri had in round numbers 3,300,000, there were only 230,000 of foreign nativity. Fifty years ago the Mis- sourian met one neighbor in seven who had come from other parts of the world. Today the foreigner in Missouri is as one in fourteen.
Missouri has been a mother of States. Out of the original Missouri Territory were carved twelve States. Out of the territory which lay beyond the Louisiana Purchase have been created eight States. In this winning of the West, Mis- sourians were many and foremost. They founded a hundred cities beyond the borders of the State from which they went forth. They were factors in the making of constitutions and in the building of commonwealths. And yet the native stock was not depleted. Today three of four Missourians are Missouri born. According to the latest government census Missourians by birth were 72 per cent of the population.
From other parts of the United States there had gravitated in 1910 to the Center State 840,631 people finding Missouri more attractive than their native commonwealths. From the four points of the compass came these Missourians by adoption. Illinois has sent 186,611 of her sons and daughters of this generation to Missouri. Kentucky, Kansas, Ohio, Tennessee, Indiana and Iowa contributed each over 50,000 natives to people Missouri. From the Atlantic to the Pacific every State was well represented among the adopted Missourians of 1910.
The European revolution of 1848 stimulated migration to Missouri so that in 1860 there were 88,000 Germans in the State. The failure of the potato crops of 1846 and 1847, followed by famine in Ireland, prompted the emigration. In 1860 there were 43,000 of Irish birth in Missouri. But apart from these two extraordinary influences the foreign elements have come steadily and in such numbers that they could be readily assimilated. Nowhere else in this country has there been such complete commingling of other nationalities and of native born Americans as in this Center State. And with what results? A former Congressman of Missouri, C. M. Shartel, has recently put it in this material form :
"I have said for years that everybody in Missouri comes nearer having three square meals a day and a bed to sleep on than the people in any other State in the Union. We haven't very many rich people and scarcely any poor ones. It is a rare thing in the country districts of Missouri to hear of anybody needing financial assistance."
"Missouri," said Champ Clark, "is proud of her immeasurable physical re- sources, which will one day make her facile princeps among her sisters; but there is something else of which she is prouder still, and that is her splendid citizenship, consisting at this day of nearly 4,000,000 industrious, intelligent, patriotic, progressive, law-abiding, God-fearing people."
"Municipal history, or state history, or national history," George E. Leighton, one time president of the Missouri Historical Society, said, "is in its last analysis but the record of the men who have conceived and executed projects that lift the
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city, or state, or nation over years and push it forward in the march of civilization."
Missouri is nearing the centennial of statehood. In the ninety-four years, much history has been made. Great industries have grown. Resources have been developed. Missouri has produced men and women who have taken rank with the distinguished in the professions and the vocations. Missouri's part in the history of the Nation has been of major character.
In forty years of going and coming through the State a newspaper man has seen, heard and read things about Missouri and Missourians of interest to him. That interest finds expression in the pages which follow.
W. B. S.
"I have said that I am glad to be here in your great State, and I am not impolite when I say that you are unappreciative of your powers here at this place. I have considered your natural resources ; with you nature has been more than lavish, she has been profligate. Dear precious dame! Take your southern line of counties; there you grow as beautiful cotton as any section of this world; traverse your southeastern counties and you meet that prodigy in the world of mineralogy-the Iron Mountain married to the Pilot Knob, about the base of which may be grown any cereal of the States of the great Northwest, or any one of our broad, outspread Western Territories. In your central counties you pro- duce hemp and tobacco with these same cereals. Along your eastern border traverses the great Father of Waters like a silver belt about a maiden's waist. From west to east through your northern half the great Missouri pushes her way. In every section of your State you have coal, iron, lead and various minerals of the finest quality. Indeed, fellow cit- izens, your resources are such that Missourians might arm a half million of men and wall themselves within the borders of their own State and withstand the siege of all the armies of this present world, in gradations of three years each between armistices, and never a Missouri soldier stretch his hand across that wall for a drink of water."-Senator Stephen A. Douglas of Illinois, in an Address at St. Louis, fifty-four years ago.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
CHAPTER I.
THE TRAVAIL OF STATEHOOD.
Missouri's Centennial-The Petition for Admission-More Inhabitants than Illinois-A Torrent of New Comers-John Mason Peck's Experience-Prompt Action for Illinois- Senate and House Split on Missouri-Slave or Free-The Tallmadge Resolution- Arkansas Territory Created-Missourians Resent "Gross and Barefaced Usurpation" -- Indignation at Old Franklin-Sentiments of Duff Green and Others-Grand Jury Utterances-The Baptist Ministers' Memorial-Alabama and Maine Precede-The Missouri Compromise-Another Hold Up-Senator Cockrell's Historical Researches- The Henry Clay Resolution-Quick Action on the Constitution-"Manumission Men"- The Only Anti-Slavery Delegate-The State Election-Senators Chosen-Barton and Benton-Champ Clark's Graphic Narrative-Leduc's Vow-The Sacrifice of Daniel Ralls-The Restriction Clause-An Absurd "Solemn Act"-President Monroe's Proc- lamation-Statehood Celebrated-Bonfires and Illumination-The American Eagle and the Irish Harp-"Ring Tail Painter"-The McGirk and Duff Green Argument-Governor I McNair-Capacity for Self-Government-Missouri "an American Republic".
CHAPTER II. THREE ORGANIC ACTS.
Missouri's Constitutions-The Framers in 1820-Three Bartons and Two Bates Brothers- -Their Effective Activities in State Making-Personal Characteristics-"Little Red"- David Barton's Marriage Ceremony-Missouri Follows Kentucky-Benton's Explana- tion-The Cloth Ineligible for Office-An "Immortal Instrument"-The Second Constitu- tional Convention-The Framers in 1845-Their Work Rejected by a Decisive Vote- Proposition to Make St. Louis the National Capital-"A Ridiculous Blunder"-First Plan of Constitutional Emancipation-Too Slow for the Radicals-Convention of 1865 -Slavery Abolished-Dr. Eliot's Prayer of Thanksgiving-The "Oath of Loyalty"- Charles D. Drake-Wholesale Disfranchisement of Southern Sympathizers-Educational Test of Suffrage-"Girondists" and "Jacobins"-Senator Vest's Description-Blair's Denunciation-Supreme Court Decision-The Test Oath Unconstitutional-Rapid Re- action from the Policy of Proscription-Political Downfall of Drake Planned-How Schurs Became a Candidate-"The Feeler" Worked-An Oratorical Trap Which Set- tled a Senatorship-Convention of 1875-An Able Body-Colonel William F. Switzler's Distinction-The "Strait Jacket Constitution" 13
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CHAPTER III
SLAVERY AND AFTER.
Immigration Influenced-Illinois Envious of Missouri Prosperity-The Secret Emancipation Movement-Benton in It-Thomas Wilson's Letter-Coming of Lovejoy-St. Louis Observer-Attacks on the Peculiar Institution-A Raid on the Printing Office-The Alton Tragedy-Treatment of St. Louis Slaves-What Kossuth Saw-Madame Chou- teau's Consideration-A Colonial Problem-The Spanish Policy-Slave Importation a Concession-Thomas Shackleford's Reminiscences-Dred Scott-Five Years of Litiga- tion-The Missouri Compromise Unconstitutional-The Blair Slaves Manumitted- Growth of Emancipation Sentiment-William Hyde's Graphic Analysis-Missourians in the Forefront-Blair and Lincoln Confer-Slavery Issue in 1860-Auctions Made Odious -The Proposition to Pay Missouri Slaveholders-President Lincoln's Interest-Shadrach, Meschach and Abednego-John B. Henderson's Recollections-Elijah H. Norton's Argu- ment-Charcoals and Claybanks-An Election in 1862-The First and Second Plans of Emancipation-Negro Education-Lincoln Institute-Manual Training-Samuel Cupples' Interest-Vest on the Ex-Slave-Negro Farmers-Their Holdings Estimated at Nearly $30,000,000-Premium for "the Highest Yield of Corn on One Acre" Won by a Negro-Calvin M. Woodward's Monument. .25
CHAPTER IV.
JACK AND GALENA.
Missouri's Mineral Prodigies-Uncle Sampson Barker's Bullets-Revelation of Zinc- Granby's Awakening-Burton's Bear Hunt-Tom Benton, the Reporter-Moses Austin's Arrival-How the Connecticut Man Smelted-Renault, the Pioneer Miner-A Century Old Claim-Mine La Motte's Vicissitudes-The Golden Vein-Lead for Washington's Soldiers-The Valles and the Rosiers-Dry Bone Turned to Account-The Flat River Country-La Grave and the Disseminated-Bonne Terre's Beginning-Evolution of the St. Joe Enterprise-Parson's Policy-Gophering at Volle Mines-Dr. Keith's Reminis- cences-Matrimony Under Difficulty-The Granby Company-Herculaneum's Era of Prosperity-The Maclot Shot Tower-Missouri Lead for Jackson's Army-The City that Jack Built-Joplin's Site a Cattle Ranch-Moffett & Sargent-Some of the Lucky Strikes-A Show and a Fortune-Bartlett's Invention-White Lead from Smelter Fumes -Early Prospectors-Ten O'Clock Run-Il'ebb City and Carterville-The Story of Two Farms-Morgan County's Fame Before the War-How Oronogo Got Its Name-"The Chatter" .43
CHAPTER V.
ABORIGINAL MISSOURIANS.
Archaeologists Disagree-Puzzling Stone Implements-Broadhead's Theory-A Prehistoric City-Amazing Fortifications-Adobe Brick-Cave Dwellers on the Gasconade-Dr. Peterson on the Mound Builders-Evidences of a Numerous Population-Laclede and the Missouris-A Far-reaching Indian Policy-The Nudarches-Friends of the French -Massacre of a Spanish Expedition in Missouri-Attempts at Civilisation-The Murder of Pontiac-Chouteau Springs-The Osages' Gift to the Son of Laclede-A Spanish Governor's Narrow Escape-Gratifications-The Shawnee Experiment-How Peace H'as Made-The Execution of Tewanaye-Good Will Transferred with Sovereignty-The
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CONTENTS
Advice of Delassus-Pike's Diplomatic Mission-British Influence Checkmated-Wisdom of William Clark-Activities of Manuel Lisa-"One-eyed Sioux"-The Treaty of 1812- Elihu H. Shepard's Tribute-"Red Head," the Friend of the Indian-The Council Cham- ber-Governor Clark's Museum-Ceremonial Calls-The Freedom of the City-Indian Coffee-Home Coming of the Osages-Migrations of the Delawares-The Rise of Colo- .61 nel Splitlog -- An Indian Capitalist.
CHAPTER VI. DUELING IN MISSOURI.
Benton and the Code-Bloody Island-The Grewsome Record-Farrar and Graham-A Friend's Responsibility-Fenwick and Crittenden-Aaron Burr's Nephew Killed-Barton and Hempstead-Code Forms Drown by Benton and Bates-A Fearless Editor-John Scott's Wholesale Challenge -- Lucas and Benton-The Election Controversy-"An Inso- lent Puppy"-What Benton Told Washburne-Lucas on "Origin of Differences"-A Farewell Message-The Terms-Lucas. Badly Wounded -- Statements of the Seconds- Mediation by Judge Lawless-Benton Repudiates the Agreement-The Second Meeting -. Lucas Killed-A Father's Lament-Benton's Promise to His Wife-Geyer and Kennerly -Army Duels-Rector and Barton-The "Philo" Charges-Public Sentiment Aroused- Rev. Timothy Flint's Letter-The Belleville Tragedy-Benton for the Defense-Legis- lation Against Dueling-Senator Linn's Comments-Leonard and Berry-Benton on the Code-Pettis and Biddle-A Double Fatality-Benton Again the Adviser-Edward Dobyns' Recollections-Rev. Dr. Eliot's Protest-Hudson and Chambers-"Old Busta- mente's" Experience-Blair and Pickering-Newspaper Reorganisation-The Blair-Price Feud-Edwards and Foster-Bowman and Glover-V'est on the Duello. 75
CHAPTER VII. THE WATERS OF MISSOURI.
Boatable, Potable, Powerful, Medicinal-Robert Fulton's Proposition-Navigation by Pirogue -Arrival of the Pike-The Missouri Mastered-Trip of the Independence to Franklin- A Great Celebration-Newspaper Congratulations-Captain Joseph Brown's Reminis- cences-Primitive Construction and no Schedules-Firing a Salute-Famous Missouri Pilots-The Record of Disasters-The Edna, the Bedford and the Saluda-Search for Sunken Treasure-Lost Cargoes of Whiskey-Captain Hunter Ben Jenkins-The Shift- ing Channel-The Missouri Belle and the Buttermilk-Up Grand River-The First Steamboat on the Upper Osage-Uncle John Whitley's Hunt for a Mysterious Monster- Some Notable Captains-Rise and Decline of Missouri River Traffic-Seventy-one Steamers in the Trade-The Rush of the Forty-niners-Jonathan Bryan's Water Mill- Possibilities of Power Ignored-An Expert's Facts-Mammoth Springs-The White River Plant-Beginnings of Hydro-Electric Development-Lebanon's Magnetic Water- Benton's Bethesda-Monegaw's One Hundred Mineral Waters-Meanderings of the .99 White-Navigation at Forsyth-Lines on "Two Ancient Misses"
CHAPTER VIII. TRAILS AND TRACKS.
The Old Wilderness-Ghost Pond-Trail Transportation-Tactics of Freighting-A Tem- perance Pledge-The Day's Routine-Recollections of a Veteran Trader-The Fast Mail Stage Line-The Trail's Tragedies-Amateur Surgery-Pony Express-The Old
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Stage Driver-Kenner of Paudingville-Benton's Change of Mind on Internal Im- provements-Missouri's First Formal Railroad Movement-Promotion of the Missouri Pacific-Ground Broken on the Fourth of July-A Great Day on the Edge of Choutean's Pond-Railroad Celebrations-Official Openings-Transcontinental Mail by Stage and Rail-A Rapid Change of Gauge-Primitive Construction-The First Train Out of St. Joe-Beginnings of Big Systems-Origin of the Wabash-Paramore's Narrow Gauge- A Missourian Originated Railway Mail Service-An Historical Mistake-State Bonds at Heavy Discount-Missouri the Pioneer in Rate Regulation-Governor Fletcher's Recommendation-Profit Sharing Was Possible-Liens Gave State Control-Railroad Companies Accepted the Regulation Condition-State Operation of the Southwest Branch-Receipts Greater than Operating Expenses-Gould's Purchase of the Missouri Pacific-Deals with the Garrisons and Thomas Allen. .. 121
CHAPTER IX.
MISSOURI'S INDIAN WARS.
Raids from the North-A Grand Jury Warning-The Battle of Sweet Lick-No Monotony at Fort Osage-"Big Hands" Clark-The Lincoln County Forts-"General" Black Hawk -The Zumwalt Sisters-An Indian's Courting-How Black Hawk Repaid Hospitality- Farming and Fighting-The Battle of the Sink Hole-Raid on Loutre Island-Stephen Cole's Desperate Encounter-Skull Lick-The Boone's Lick Campaign-Montgomery County's Tragedies-Jacob Groom's Heroic Act-Captain James Callaway Ambushed- The Battle of Prairie Fork Crossing-The Pettis County Mystery-A British Officer's Tomb-Fort Cooper-Captain Sarshall Cooper's Defiance-W'hen Settlers "Forted Up" -The Seven Widows of Fort Hempstead-Killing of Jonathan Todd and Thomas Smith -Fort Cole-A Long Chase-Treacherous Miamis-Braxton Cooper's Fight for Life- Stephen Cooper's Charge-Christmas Eve Mourning-Good Old Hannah Cole-The Council at Portage des Sioux-Auguste Chouteau's Diplomacy-Death of Black Buffalo -Big Elk's Peace Oration-Intrigues of British Fur Traders-Captain O'Fallon's Scathing Report-Reminiscences of John B. Clark-The Big Neck War-The Cabins of the White Folks-The Battle with the Iowas-A Remorseful Chief-Father De Smet 147
CHAPTER X.
MISSOURI'S UNDERWORLD.
Roark Peak-The Devil's Den-Fate of the Guerrilla-The Sentence of the Home Guards- Nature's Ammonia Completes the Work-Henry T. Blow's Exploration-Tradition of Spanish Treasure-A Visit with Truman S. Powell-Descent into the Amphitheater- Great White Throne-Through Registry Room to the Gulf of Doom-Lost River Which Makes Onyx-Fat Man's Misery-Rest Room-Mystic Lake and Mystic River-Blondy's Throne-Mother Hubbard-The Dungeons-Sentinel Rock and Shower Bath Room- Thirty Miles of Passages-Tales of Marble Cave-Wonders of Hahatonka-Bishop McIntyre's Lecture-A Pretty Stretch of Boone's Lick Road-The Caves and Bottom- less Pit of Warren-Grandeur of the Canyon at Greer-Old Monegaw's Self Chosen Sepulchre-Devil's Lake-Fishing Spring-The Lost Rivers-Senator l'est's Experience on the Roubidcau-Cave Decorations by the Indians-Persimmon Gap-Mark Twain's Cave-Dr. McDowell's Gruesome Experiment-Tragedy of Labbadie's Cave-Perry County's Subterranean World-Missouri's Long and Varied List of Underground Wonders 169
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