USA > New Jersey > Hudson County > Bergen > Old Bergen: History and Reminiscences with Maps and Illustrations > Part 13
Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).
Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 | Part 5 | Part 6 | Part 7 | Part 8 | Part 9 | Part 10 | Part 11 | Part 12 | Part 13 | Part 14 | Part 15 | Part 16 | Part 17
In order that an accurate idea of the growth and transformation of this territory may be obtained, we will follow closely, yet briefly, the different changes that have occurred.
C. Van Vorst was the owner of a large tract of land at Paulus Hook, having obtained patent for same March 31, 1663, located between Harsimus and Jan de Lacher's Point. This property was located south of the present Newark Avenue, and extended to Communipaw Cove, reaching to above Merseles Street.
The Duke's Farm, north of this, extending from Newark Avenue to Harsimus Cove, was owned by one Kennedy. He was envious of the exclusive privileges enjoyed by Van Vorst for operating the ferry to New York, and endeavored to secure the same for him- self. After considerable controversy, Van Vorst was eventually successful, and such rights became vested in him.
April 14, 1804, Van Vorst sold part of the above property, including ferry privileges, to Abraham Var- ick, merchant. He transferred same to Anthony Dey and others, who afterward formed " Associates of the
231
"OLD BERGEN."
Jersey Company," who thereupon became invested with the title of the property. At this time the ferry was moved to a point between Grand and York, and near the center of the block on which Colgate's factory now stands. At this time the horse-boats elsewhere described were used, but these were dis- placed by steamboats in 1812. Says the Sentinel of
OLD FERRY.
Freedom : " The first trip drew thousands of spectators to both shores, attracted by the novel and pleasing scene. One may now cross the river at the slight cost of fifty cents, same as on bridge."
Up to 1852 the rates of ferriage from Jersey City to New York were fixed by the Board of Chosen Free-
232
"OLD BERGEN."
holders of Hudson County, and it is curious to note how the amount charged was based upon the article carried. Appended are some of the rates fixed by the Board in Sept., 1849.
Every person on foot above ten years old, .03
Every person on foot under ten years and above five, .02 Man and horse only, .09
Ordinary 4 wheeled truck loaded, 2 horses, .37]
Ordinary 4 wheeled truck light, 2 horses, .25
Coach, coachee,- chariot, phaeton, etc., .30
Wagon load of hay or straw, .50
Oats, green peas and beans, per bushel,
.0I
Potatoes, per bushel,
.012
Barrels containing apples or vegetables,
.064
Oysters, per bushel,
.03
Fancy chairs, each, .02
Common chairs, each, .01
Sofas and pianos, each, .25
Bureaus,
.122
An additional sum of 3 cents each to be charged every person on any vehicle in addition to the driver, who is included in the first charge.
The first evidence of the disintegration of the old township of Bergen was in 1820, when the City of Jer- sey was incorporated (re-incorporated in 1829 as Jersey City). It comprised that part of the territory, bounded between the present line of Grove Street, on the west, and the Hudson River on the east, with the Bay as the southerly boundary line, and reaching north to Harsimus Cove, being part of the property alluded to above, as having been owned by Van Vorst. It contained at that time about three hundred inhabi- tants. Gordon's Gasetteer states in 1834: "Jersey
233
"OLD BERGEN."
City is commodiously laid out in lots twenty-five feet by one hundred, distributed into forty-five blocks, each two acres, with broad streets, and contains many good buildings." Van Vorst Township was taken from Bergen in 1841, bounded north by North Bergen, east by Hudson River and Jersey City, south by New York Bay, and west by Bergen and North Bergen.
North Bergen was formed in 1842, and comprised all the territory of old Bergen Township lying north of the New Jersey Railroad, and between Van Vorst Township and Hackensack River. Secaucus is a strip of land lying in the western part of this township, and surrounded by marshes.
Hudson City was erected in 1855 from the territory of North Bergen, and was the southerly portion there- of, bounded directly by the New Jersey Railroad, and extending north to the line of the Paterson Plank Road. It had been previously separated from Bergen, in 1852, and was first called the Town of Hudson.
In this territory likewise, numerous little settlements sprang up, each possessing its own characteristics, and each known by its distinctive name, such as Washing- ton Village, West Hoboken, North Hoboken, Union Hill, Guttenberg, Weehawken and New Durham, all telling of rapid growth.
To the southward, the Township of Greenville was incorporated in 1863, and at that date was cut off from the Township of Bergen, and was bounded on the north by Linden Avenue, reaching down to the Morris Canal. From its commanding and healthful situation, it was early sought as a place of residence, but the love
234
"OLD BERGEN."
of the early settlers for their acres, and their conse- quent unwillingness to part with them, for some time retarded its growth. Owing, however, to the passing away of the original owners, and necessary division of the home acres, as has been said, much has been thrown on the market, since which time the town's growth has been constant and rapid, until to-day it has become a most important part of Jersey City, into which it became incorporated at the time of consolidation in 1872.
At Communipaw, Lafayette was laid out. It had no direct connection with Jersey City, on account of the impassable nature of the marsh that surrounded it, until a foot path was built by driving sharpened stakes into the soft meadow ground, and placing planks over them. This means of communication was often en- tirely interrupted by high tides, which frequently carried away the precarious foot path. The extending and filling in of Pacific Avenue, to and connecting with Grand Street, made a direct and reliable con- nection, and caused the rapid growth of that vicinity.
Bayonne was incorporated in 1869, and comprises all the southern portion of the peninsula lying between the New York and Newark Bays, south of Morris Canal.
Hoboken, now become a city of considerable mag- nitude, was purchased by John Stevens in 1804, as previously stated, who shortly after had the same sur- veyed and laid out into building lots ; and many were sold. In 1838 Stevens formed the Hoboken Land and Improvement Company, which was incorporated
235
"OLD BERGEN."
on February 21, of that year. He transferred much of the land to this Company the following year, and a uniform system of improvement was instituted, the wisdom of which policy has been emphasized by the rapid growth and the attractive character of the im- provements. Hoboken was set off from North Ber- gen in 1849, and incorporated as a city, March 28, 1855.
Bergen, after having been dismembered to form other municipalities, was incorporated as the Town of Bergen in 1855, its area comprising but little more than the old town as originally surveyed, and the out- gardens in its immediate neighborhood. March II, 1868, the City of Bergen was incorporated and Henry Fitch elected first Mayor. In 1872 it, with other towns, was absorbed by, and became part of, the City of Jersey City. Like many of its old families, it has lost its name and identity, but its influence continues, even to the present time, in the shaping and directing of the general municipal policy. All of the above mentioned territory (outside of the Town of Bergen) was origin- ally attached to the old town. It comprised the " buy- tentuyn," or out-gardens, of its inhabitants, and at the close of the Revolution was very sparsely settled. The growth of the neighboring city of New York caused a demand for near-by homes, and from time to time, settlements were made, until at the present time, the whole territory is occupied by a thriving population.
Chapter XLVII.
CHARACTERISTICS OF THE INHABITANTS OF "OLD BERGEN."
WASHINGTON IRVING has somewhat satirically and in an amusing manner ascribed to the early Dutch settlers many habits and peculiarities, which, while not strictly accurate and historical, were suggested by the fact that the early Dutch were so tenacious of the habits and customs descending to them from their forefathers, and so indifferent to the affairs and wrangles of the outside world, that even in those slow- going days, their conservativeness and opposition to all new and untried theories, were particularly notice- able. Although under the shadow of the great city, and within easy access to it, they disregarded its activities and pursued their avocations, undisturbed by its allurements. If they did not indulge in its ex- travagances or possess its luxuries, they were con- tented to enjoy their home comfort, with no desire to adopt any of the wild or unusual habits introduced by the royalists, of which they doubtless often heard.
The fertile soil of " Old Bergen " afforded ample recompense to the old Dutch husbandman, and he cared for his acres with a judgment and industry that returned him a most liberal remuneration. Through-
237
"OLD BERGEN."
out this section, cabbage was the principal staple of produce, and immense quantities were raised, not only for supplying the neighboring city, but for shipment to all parts of the country ; and even as late as during our Civil War, from its beginning in 1861-when the shutting off of Southern transportation cut off the early supply from those parts-to its close, the market gardens of this territory furnished a goodly supply of this succulent vegetable, and the successors of the orig- inal settlers reaped an abundant reward. Another source of income to the early farmers, in addition to the vegetables, grain and hay, raised and sold, was the cutting and bunching of clover, which in its green state was readily sold to the denizens of New York as a most healthful and necessary food for their horses and cattle.
In the fall, the marshes on either side of the hill were frequented by hunters in search of the wild-fowl that congregated there, and oftentimes great flocks of wild pigeons, settling in the woods on the west side, afforded sport and sustenance, not only for the residents, but for many who crossed over from the neighboring city.
Many of the inhabitants, especially those living at Communipau and in the neighborhood of the shore, derived a most comfortable living, and oftentimes a competency, from the oyster and shad fisheries of New York and Newark Bays. From the time that Hudson regaled himself on what he termed the larg- est and most luscious bivalves that were ever seen, until very recent times, when the increase of manu-
238
"OLD BERGEN."
factures, and consequent befouling of the waters des- troyed the beds, these oysters enjoyed a most flatter- ing reputation.
The spinning and weaving of wool and flax occupied the women of the day. Their industry was able to furnish the necessary clothing for daily comfort, and frequently with provident forethought, the housewife prepared for every emergency. The well stored caas or clothespress was furnished with the finery deemed necessary to envelope the form of the comely bride ; and from it the beautifully crimped and plaited gar- ments were brought forth for the enshrouding of the dead.
The frugal mode of life of these people, and their economical habits, were rarely departed from, and resulted in an accumulation which was prudently in- vested and increased. As tillers of the soil, they seemed to become imbued with the healthfulness, as well with the strict honesty and integrity, of Dame Nature, learning well, not only that without honest exertion no adequate and regular return could be ex- pected, but also that with a proper application and cultivation-dealing justly with her-they would be assured of a bountiful reward.
During the occupation of New York by the British army, the settlers of " Old Bergen," as they bartered with the invaders for their farm produce or garden truck, secured most valuable information, by means of which Washington was oftentimes enabled to thwart the enemy's plans. The first news of the in- tended treachery of Benedict Arnold, was conveyed to
239
"OLD BERGEN."
Washington through one of the sturdy patriots of Bergen Hill, it having been learned by one of the female members of his family, while marketing in New York.
The names of the early settlers were selected on account of some special characteristic, their trade or calling, or the place of their birth. Thus we find Ge- rit Gerritse (that is, Garret the son of Garret) as hav- ing received a patent for land at Bergen, from Philip Carteret, May 12, 1668. He came from the city of Wagening, an ancient town near the Rhine ; and van signifying from or of, he was designated as Garret Van Wagening, which became the family name. So the name of Van Buskirk is composed of two Dutch words bos, woods, and kerch, church ; hence with the Van, the name signifies "from the woods by the church." Jacobse Wallings in the early days came from Middleburgh, the capital of Zealand, and as he was a storekeeper, was called Jacob Van Winkle, winkle signifying store or shop, hence " Jacob of the shop." The custom of retaining family names made it often very difficult to designate the different mem- bers of the same family with the same patronymic, and so in time they were localized ; as in the Van Horne family, various members were known as John, Johns John, Trinches John, Mill Creek John, Canal Bridge John, etc.
One custom which made it almost impossible to trace genealogies was that of giving a child as a sur- name his father's christian name with se or sen (meaning son) added. Thus if a child was baptized Hendrick
2.40
"OLD BERGEN."
and his father's name was William, he would be known as Hendrick Williamsen ; if his son was called Jan, he would became Jan Hendricksen. If his son was called Garret, he would be known as Garret Jansen ; and the next generation might become John Garretson ; the next, Michael Johnson, and so on indefinitely. So that, as will be readily seen, identical names would frequently occur in families entirely separate and dis- tinct. The inconvenience of this practice and the con- fusion it occasioned, caused its abandonment, and the names borne by the heads of families at this time be- came and continued the family names.
Chapter XLVIII.
THE WARS OF 1812 AND 1861, AND OLD LANDMARKS.
AFTER a period of peace, there were again rumors of trouble with Great Britain, and her insistance on the " Right of Search " made another outbreak probable. The bitterness engendered during the Revolution was revived, and once more the territory of Bergen was aroused by the bugle call and the martial tread of armed hosts. War was declared, and active measures were adopted for the defence of New York City, which was supposed to be the objective point of the enemy. New York State being threatened at her northern border, and most of her troops being em- ployed in that direction, she was obliged to rely on New Jersey for the protection of her chief city. Au- gust 13, 1814, Gov. Pennington of New Jersey issued his proclamation for the enrollment of men, and or- dered a force, composed of different companies of the state, to march immediately to Paulus Hook, where Brig. Gen. Colfax was to assume command.
Some of these troops were encamped at and sur- rounding the " Old Arsenal," that stood on the north side of Summit Avenue, about midway between Newark and Hoboken Avenues. Gen. Swift reported to Gov. Tompkins of New York, that the Jersey troops were enrolled and occupied a fortified camp at
242
" OLD BERGEN."
Bergen Heights. They consisted of twenty-three companies, and as soon as inspected, were formed into regiments, under command of Col. J. W. Frelinghuy- sen. Some were stationed at Paulus Hook, and some at Sandy Hook, while those remaining encamped at Jersey City Heights were kept in readiness, in case of any attempted entrance into the Bay or attack upon New York.
They were never called upon for active service, however, as during that campaign, active hostilities were carried on upon the Canadian border and in the neighborhood of Washington. The treaty of peace was signed December 14, 1814, but before that date, it was apparent that the end of hostilities was drawing near, and the need of a defensive corps removed. On December 1, 1814, this brigade of New Jersey militia was paid by the Corporation of the City of New York, and discharged from the service of protecting that city. Col. Frelinghuysen wrote to Gov. Tomp- kins December 9, 1814, expressing great satisfaction at the treatment of his troops by New York, and stated they would be in readiness at all times to act in her defence. On returning to their places of ren- dezvous, the war being ended, the militia were mus- tered out ; and the war clouds having disappeared, the people again settled down to their avocations.
But once more, in the days of '61, the fires of patri- otism blazed brightly, as the boom of the gun fired on Sumter proclaimed the beginning of an unnatural strife. It is hard at this distance of time and under prevailing conditions, to thoroughly appreciate the
243
"OLD BERGEN."
intensity of feeling that prevailed during those troub- lous days. No foreign foe threatened our shores, but internal dissensions clouded the future with doubt and uncertainty ; ties of blood and interest were rudely torn asunder, and neighbor looked askance at neighbor, while men spoke with bated breath. There were white faces and troubled hearts, but the patriotic citizens of " Old Bergen " showed no signs of falter- ing, and when the call for troops was made, they were among the first to volunteer for the defence of the national capital.
April 15th, 1861, Simon Cameron, then Secretary of War of the United States, wired Governor Olden of New Jersey that he had just sent a despatch, call- ing on him for four regiments of troops for immedi- ate service. The governor, without waiting for the receipt of the official paper, which by the way was not received until the 17th, at once communicated with all sections of the state. On the following day, April 16th, a meeting was held in the City Hall, Jersey City, for the purpose of aiding in the enlistment of troops ; and volunteers being called for, immediate response was made.
On the Sunday following, patriotic sermons were preached in all the churches, which raised the feelings of the people to a white heat. The figure of old Dr. Taylor is vividly recalled, as with quivering lip and streaming eyes, he implored that the red hand of war might still be stayed, but pointed out in most emphatic terms the great danger of apathy and the necessity of instant preparation, so that the purpose of those who
244
"OLD BERGEN."
would pull down the whole fabric of our government might be thwarted. At his invitation, Company A of the 2nd Regiment, Capt. Garret D. Van Reypen, largely recruited from within the confines of " Old Bergen," marched to the church on the following day, to receive at his hands a testament for each member, together with his blessing and God-speed.
On the 22nd, a committee of five citizens was appoint- ed to provide for the equipment and transportation of the regiment, which duty was so promptly performed that on the 26th, only four days after, and ten days from the first notification, the 2nd New Jersey Regiment was encamped at Trenton, prepared to enter upon an active campaign. This was the more notable, as the North was at the time completely unprepared for war. The necessary expense attending the sudden call for troops was borne by individuals, who were afterward reimbursed through the issue of local bonds. This War Committee was continued throughout the war, and took under their special charge the families of those who were thus suddenly called away. Large amounts of money were subscribed, by means of which, under its judicious management, the general govern- ment was relieved of much embarrassment.
The thrilling accounts of these troublous years may be found in detail in our state records, and the names of those honored heroes emblazoned upon her escutcheon.
In the old days the ridge of high ground extended in an unbroken front, save for the indentations of natural ravines or water courses, from Greenville north
2.45
"OLD BERGEN."
ward, until it merged into the grand old Palisades, the wonder and admiration of the world. Following from its commencement an almost direct line to about the present line of Academy Street, it there jutted out in a bold promontory, from eighty to one hundred feet high, called " Point of Rocks," where the Pennsylvania Railroad round-house now stands, and then receding, followed about the original line northward. The stream of water known as Mill Creek flowed in from the Bay just north of the high point of land, now levelled, near the present junction of Jersey Avenue and Phillip Street, and in a curving line through the marsh until it reached the Point of Rocks; thence it followed the base of the hill northward to near Hoboken Avenue, where it mingled its waters with a stream that flowed into Harsimus Cove. This creek was of con- siderable importance both for commercial reasons, and as a means of communication with Bergen Town.
The farmers loaded periaguas at Newark Avenue (where the West Shore freight house now stands) with garden truck for the New York market; and in the early spring, when escaping frost rendered the road from Communipaw well nigh impassable, the devout worshippers at that place, loath to lose the privileges of the sanctuary, took boat to Point of Rocks, and there clambered over the rocks at Academy Street, or followed the steep ascent of Mill Road, and thence through the lane opening on Bergen Avenue at Foye Place, to the church.
With the exception of a few farm clearings, until a comparatively recent day the whole of the northerly
2.46
" OLD BERGEN."
part of the township was covered with dense woods, which likewise continued in an almost unbroken line along the western slope all the way to Bergen Point. There were also extensive groves at intervals along the eastern brow of the hill, notably at Weehawken
" OLD WELL."
and North Hudson. As has been mentioned, one of the great attractions of " Old Bergen" was its sparkling spring water. The purity of this water was greatly appreciated, and numberless wells were sunk through- out the territory. They were walled up with stone, and during the early days, like the old well in the Square,
247
" ÓLD BERGEN."
were surmounted by a well-sweep with bucket. So cool were they that they were utilized during the hot months for the preservation of butter and meats, which were lowered to within a few inches from the surface of the water, and there kept suspended until needed for use.
In 1850 the population, especially of lower Jersey City, had increased to such an extent, that the water supply from the old wells not only became inadequate, but many of them were abandoned on sanitary grounds, and covered over. During this time, drinking water from the wells on the Heights was carted around and sold by the pailful. Public attention was thus directed to the necessity of procuring a new and full supply. In 1851 a water company was incorporated, and about three years afterward, the water service and reservoirs were completed. The source of supply was the upper part of the Passaic River, which at that time afforded a generous supply of good potable water.
June 30th, 1854, the reservoirs were filled and the water let into the distributing pipes. An event of such great importance was marked by a special celebration, in which the whole community joined. A procession was formed of leading citizens, escorted by fire and military companies, many of these from neighboring cities, which wended its way from lower Jersey City, though the principal streets, and to and around the reservoir at Central Avenue on the Heights. The long line of blue and red shirted firemen, drawing their well polished and gaily decked
248
" OLD BERGEN."
machines and encircling the reservoir, was indeed an inspiriting sight. The rejoicings were general, and the day was concluded with banquets and congratulations.
Some of the old wells, however, continued in use to within very recent years. Many a thirsty wayfarer has had reason to bless the old Academy Street well that was located for centuries on the north side of that street about midway between Tuers and Summit Avenues. And even at the present day, pilgrimages are made by many to the old well still in use on the Van Riper homestead, corner of Academy and Van Reypen Streets, from which has continued to flow the clear, refreshing water since the very foundation of the town.
In the early days conflagrations were infrequent, and when they did occur they brought out all in the vicinity, with pails, pans or any vessel suitable for holding water. These were passed from hand to hand by establishing long lines, from the nearest wells or cisterns to the fire. As buildings became more dense, some new method was demanded and volunteer companies were formed. These were maintained at first by subscription-but afterward became a city charge, with no pay attached for service. Those were palmy days, and the rivalry between the different companies resulted in prompt and efficient service. No old fireman can recall without a thrill, the being roused at midnight by the clang of the fire-bell, and almost unconsciously donning the clothing which was always conveniently placed, and
Need help finding more records? Try our genealogical records directory which has more than 1 million sources to help you more easily locate the available records.