USA > New Jersey > Hudson County > Bergen > Old Bergen: History and Reminiscences with Maps and Illustrations > Part 8
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FERRY
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" OLD BERGEN."
camp ; on ascertaining this fact Capt. Forsyth imme- diately followed, and by forced march caught up with Lee near the Fort Lee Road, where they met the escort sent to their assistance and reached the camp in safety.
During the winter of 1779 and 1780, the American troops were in quarters in the hills of Morristown, and were suffering great privations, being half fed and clothed, and subjected to the rigors of an unusually severe winter. New York Bay was solidly covered with ice of sufficient firmness to bear the heaviest artillery. Washington saw the opportunity, and de- termined to inaugurate some movement that would rouse the spirits of the people and inspire them with new hopes. He accordingly projected a descent on Staten Island with a force of two thousand five hun- dred men, under the command of Lord Stirling. His intention was to surprise and capture the British force stationed there. On January 14, 1779, the American force crossed to the Island from De Hart's Point, but their approach being discovered, and the British being strongly entrenched, they were obliged to recross to the Jersey shore, bringing with them, however, a number of prisoners who had been captured.
The boldness of this attempt roused the enemy, and on January 25th, Gen. Knyphausen ordered out a de- tachment, consisting of drafts from the different regi- ments stationed at New York, who passed over the North River in sleighs to Paulus Hook, and were there joined by part of its garrison. They crossed over Bergen Heights, collected what plunder they could, and pushing on to Newark, captured a company sta- tioned there, and burned the academy.
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" OLD BERGEN."
In the beginning of October, 1780, Washington yielded to the urgent entreaties of Lafayette, and gave him permission to attempt a descent on Staten Island, to surprise two Hessian encampments. The attempt failed for want of boats. At the end of November, 17So, the New Jersey troops went into winter quarters in the neighborhood of Pompton.
These were indeed trying times, and the fidelity and endurance of the patriots were tested to the utmost. Being exposed to the inclemency of the season with- out sufficient food and scantily clad, what wonder was it that stern necessity impelled to deeds of lawlessness that would not have been countenanced under other conditions, or that the rights of friend and foe were alike disregarded when ever personal advantage or comfort could be secured.
As an evidence of the actual condition of the patriot troops at this time, the following report taken from the Royal Gasette, dated August 26, 1780, will be of interest : " No man will now part with anything for paper money, old or new, and Washington's army, be- tween Pompton and Tappan, are at three-quarters allowance of flour and fresh meat.
" At the late irruption of their light horse (about sixty) to Bergen, on Sunday 13th inst., they found the inhabitants going to church. Some they insulted, others they robbed, and condescended such pitiful exploits as changing hats and clothes, taking the buckles from their shoes, and in one instance strip- ping off a man's breeches, and leaving only an old pair of pants to cover his nakedness."
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" OLD BERGEN."
Although this is taken from a paper in full sympa- thy with the royalists, it would seem that Washington's prediction as to the change of policy from "protectors to plunderers " had been verified.
To show the value of Continental money at this time, the following bill is a fair sample :-
" 6 yds. chintz
$150
$900
I pair boots
600
600
8ª yds. calico
85
744
42 yds. moreen
100
450
4 handkerchiefs
100
400
8 yds. binding
4
32
I skein silk
10
IO
$3,136.
" If paid in specie, 18 pounds, 10 shillings."
-
Chapter XXX.
REVOLUTIONARY TIMES CONTINUED.
SIR HENRY CLINTON, persuading himself that South Carolina was subdued, embarked for New York on June 5th, 1780. On the 17th, the fleet arrived, and Clinton landed troops at Staten Island and then reëmbarked them, attempting to disguise his inten- tion, which was to destroy the stores at Morristown and get control of the patriots' stronghold. In this he was thwarted, and commencing a retreat, he crossed into Staten Island on June 23rd, and New Jersey was at last evacuated by the enemy, with the exception of Paulus Hook.
(British Report, July 26, 1780.) " At a skirmish at Col. Cuyler's Post (near Weehawken), eight miles from New York, on the Hudson River, on Friday, 2Ist of July, three men were killed. The refugees under Capt. Ward pursued the rebels, and retook twenty head of cattle."
August 24, 1780, Lee with his command marched to the brow of the hill east of the town of Bergen (near Magnolia Avenue and Henry Street), took observation there of the movements of the enemy, and continued foraging as low down as Bergen Point.
(British Report, New York Mercury, August 28, 1780.) "Generals Washington, Lafayette, Greene
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"OLD BERGEN."
and Wayne, with many other officers, and large bodies of rebels, have been in the vicinity of Bergen for some days past. They have taken all the forage from the inhabitants of that place. The officers were down to Prior's Mill last Friday, but did not seem inclined to make any attack."
The same paper states under date of September 18, 1780: " Four refugees that went over to Secaucus last Saturday, took three rebel officers and brought them to town yesterday- morning."
Sir Henry Clinton, presuming on the disaffection existing among the Jersey troops on account of the privations and sufferings to which they were subjected, on January 4th, 1781, hurried troops, cannon and sup- plies of every description on board his vessels, so that he might land them on Staten Island, and then invad- ing the Jerseys, encourage and take advantage of such disaffection. He found, however, that he had been deceived as to the actual sentiment of the American troops, and consequently failed in his object.
On July Ist, 1781, Washington received intelligence that a part of the garrison of New York had been ordered to forage the Jerseys. He therefore deter- mined upon counter action, and he with some of his officers, crossed to Fort Lee to reconnoiter Fort Washington and the vicinity from the cliffs above. He found the troops that had been sent out into Jersey had been recalled in anticipation of some such movement, and he turned his attention to aiding in carrying out another part of the movement, the capture of Harlem Heights. About the middle of
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July, Washington crossed the river with Count de Rochambeau, General de Beville, and General Dupor- tail, to reconnoiter the British posts on the north end of New York Island. They were escorted by one hundred and fifty of the New Jersey troops, and spent the day on the Jersey heights, ascertaining the exact position of the enemy on the opposite shore. On the 21st of July, at eight in the evening, the troops commenced their march, and assumed so threatening an attitude that Clinton requested Corn- wallis to send him three regiments to New York from Carolina.
After this reconnoissance, Washington urged rein- forcements, and the French troops soon arriving (September, 1781), ground was surveyed and marked out on the Jersey shore (Bergen Heights), as if to aid in the siege of New York.
Washington now determined to attempt if possible the investment of New York, and in June took the field in person. He crossed from the western to the eastern side of the river, and was joined by the French army at Dobbs Ferry, July 6th. Clinton receiving a reinforcement of three thousand men from England, countermanded his requisition from Virginia. On consultation with the French commander, Washing- ton determined to act in unison with him, and to dis- pose of the forces so as to move them most readily against New York or Staten Island, or, if deemed more judicious, to concentrate against Cornwallis.
Washington favored primarily the attack on Staten Island, as by its capture and possession by the Ameri-
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cans, the danger of an incursion up the Hudson would be greatly lessened. Sir Henry Clinton was in some way apprised of the design, and strengthened his corps in Staten Island and his post at Paulus Hook. Washington drew large bodies of his troops from the east side of the Hudson, and continued his offensive operations. All the boats that could be procured were collected at places convenient to Staten Island, and mounted on wheels ready for immediate trans- portation when required. The last division crossed the river on the 25th, assembling in the neighborhood of Paramus, preparatory to a forced march over Ber- gen Neck.
Washington here received a despatch from Lafay- ette, who was closely watching Cornwallis in Virginia, the purport of which decided him in favor of an im- mediate campaign against the latter. Necessary in- structions were issued, and his army had actually crossed the Delaware before Clinton realized his real intention. It was Washington's design to mislead the British commander in case he decided to move against Cornwallis. Accordingly, pretended plans were drafted and allowed to fall into Clinton's hands; and to still further diminish the chance of his real design being made known, he gave orders for movements and oper- ations that should mislead his own army. As he wrote, " No less pains were taken to deceive our own army, for I always conceived, when the imposition does not completely take place at home, it would never succeed sufficiently abroad."
Having thus completely outwitted Sir Henry
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" OLD BERGEN."
Clinton, Washington passed through Philadelphia, and eventually completed the movement that resulted in the defeat and surrender of Cornwallis. On his return he remained four months in Philadelphia, and then stopped at Morristown on his way to Newburg.
While here, a plan was submitted to him by Col. Matthew Ogden, of the New Jersey troops, to surprise Prince William Henry, son of the King of England, who was serving as a midshipman in the fleet of Ad- miral Digby, at his quarters in New York City, and bring both the prince and admiral off as prisoners. He was to be aided by a captain, a subaltern, three sergeants and thirty-six men. They were to embark from the Jersey shore on a rainy night, in four whale boats, well manned, and rowed with muffled oars, and were to land in New York at half-past nine, at a wharf not far from the quarters of the prince and admiral, which were in Hanover Square. Part of the men were to guard the boats, while Col. Ogden, with a strong party, was to proceed to the house, force the doors, and carry off the prisoners. Washington ap- proved the plan, but Col. Ogden was specially charged that no insult or indignity should be offered the prison- ers. It is not known whether any actual attempt was made to carry out this plan, but it was probably aban- doned, as extra precautions were taken by the British at this time, on account of the many rumors and ex- travagant reports circulated in New York.
Chapter XXXI.
CLOSE OF THE REVOLUTION.
EVENTS were now rapidly culminating, and the long struggle for independence drawing to a close. The surrender of Cornwallis in October, 1781, virtually ended the war, although there were many skirmishes between detachments of the two armies, especially throughout the southern country, resulting in frequent bloodshed. The territory of Bergen still continued debatable ground, as will be seen from the following accounts :
(British Report, New York Mercury, September 17, 1781.) "On Wednesday evening last a party of eleven men under Capt. Wm. Harding, went from Fort De- lancy on Bergen Neck, to Closter, and captured a rebel guard of six men and fifteen cattle, and took them safely to the fort."
(British Report, February, 1782.) "On Thursday morning before sunrise, a select body of rebels, consist- ing of some two hundred, from the Jersey Brigade of Light Infantry, aided by a party of picked Militia men, under the command of Maj. Bauman, attacked the post of Loyal Refugees at Bergen " (Fort Delancy at Bayonne), "commanded by Maj. Ward. ... The rebels, who did not expect such a warm reception,
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"OLD BERGEN."
were soon put in disorder, and obliged to change their position. They were formed in three columns on the ice, but the Refugees sallied out, and by a brisk fire from their small arms, and a nine-pounder served with grape-shot, did great execution, and obliged the rebels to make a precipitate retreat."
(British Report, Royal Gasette.) "On the night of the 13th inst., Capt. Geo. Harding, temporarily the commanding officer at Fort Delancy, having informa- tion that a party of rebels from Newark (who used to infest this shore and carry off our men) had gone over to Bergen Neck, detailed Capt. Cosman with a party of men to intercept them. The darkness of the night, however, favored the escape of the rebels."
(British Report, March 15, 1782.) " A party of Maj. Ward's Refugee Rangers, under command of Capt. Archibald McCurdy and Lieut. John Ferguson, made an excursion as far as English Neighborhood, in New Jersey, where they fell in with upward of fifty rebel Militia and Continentals. A skirmish ensued which lasted half an hour. The rebels were driven off."
The continued successes of the American arms, how- ever, warned those who had been guilty of excesses, and who had been traitors to their country, that the day of retribution was at hand. Among the most ac- tive of these, were the band of refugees that had occu- pied Bergen Neck throughout almost the entire war. They now feared the vengeance of those they had so cruelly wronged, and " on the Ist of September, 1782, Fort Delancy on Bergen Neck was evacuated and burned; and on Saturday, October 5th, Maj. Ward,
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with his crew of Tories and Refugees, embarked for Nova Scotia, bearing with them implements of hus- bandry and one year's provisions."
Meanwhile negotiations for peace were being conduct- ed at Paris. On the 20th of January, 1783, a treaty of peace was signed in that city, and on the 23rd of March, Congress received a letter to that effect from Lafayette, whereupon that body issued a proclamation announcing the fact, which was received by Wash- ington on April 17th and read to the army on the 19th.
December 4th, 1783, Washington bade farewell to his officers at Fraunce's Tavern, Broad and Pearl Streets, in New York. A barge was in waiting at noon at Whitehall ferry to convey him across the Hudson to Paulus Hook, on his way to Annapolis, where he was to surrender his commission as commander in chief. As he approached the Jersey shore, the scene of so many anxious moments, he must have been affect- ed by conflicting emotions. The contrast was marked. Only a few months had passed since the time when he could draw near to the shore only with the greatest caution. Now, he was welcomed with loud acclama- tion, the people of " Old Bergen " vying with each other in showing their love and admiration. He was hailed as the deliverer of his country, and many who, under his command, had endured and bled for their native land, invoked Heaven's choicest blessings on his head.
As he passed over Bergen Heights, his pride was mingled with sadness, as the surroundings revived in
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his mind recollections of former associates, his old companions in arms, whose dangers and privations he had shared, and many of whom had given their lives for the cause they loved. Among these was the gal- lant, self-sacrificing Mercer, whose faithful watchfulness from these very heights had aided so much in the result that had been attained, but whose life blood ebbed away, even as the turning point of the war was reached at Trenton and Princeton.
A few years afterward, when Washington received the reward of his labors and self-sacrifice through his selection as president of the infant confederacy, he again visited this scene of his early privations. On his journey to New York, on the occasion of his inaugura- tion as first president of the United States, in 1789, his route was projected to pass through New Jersey to Elizabethtown Point, and then proceed by water to New York. His whole journey was in the nature of a triumphal procession, but nowhere was his reception more enthusiastic or his greetings more sincere than on his passage from the Point through the Kills. He embarked in a barge, splendidly decorated, and con- voyed by others, with flags and music. As he entered the Kills, between Staten Island and Bergen Point, the procession was met by other boats from the shores, gay with bunting. From the shores of Bergen Point, which was lined with the citizens of " Old Bergen," he was greeted with the booming of cannon, waving of flags, and loud huzzas of the people. Their joy knew no bounds, and until the procession receded in the distance, their applause and rejoicing continued.
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"OLD BERGEN."
Says the general in his Diary: "The display of Boats which attended and joined on this occasion, some with vocal, and others with instrumental music, on board, the decoration of the ships, the roar of can- non, and the loud acclamations of the people, which rent the skies as I passed along the wharves, filled my mind with sensations as painful ( contemplating the reverse of this scene ) as they were pleasing."
Chapter XXXII.
GROWTH AND CHARACTERISTICS.
THE dangers and privations of the Revolution being now past, the people of Bergen once more resumed their avocations. Some there were who had cast in their lot with the British, and had been such active sympathizers with them, that they dreaded the retribu- tion to which they would be subjected at the hands of their old neighbors, and failed to return. But the lukewarm and indifferent were permitted to occupy their old farms, and all now endeavored to rescue their lands and homes from the dilapidation and decay into which they had fallen. A few years sufficed to erase all traces of the bloody scenes that had been enacted, and the territory of " Old Bergen " resumed its accustomed quiet and peaceful appearance.
Many of the slaves now returned to their old mas- ters, some actuated by kindly feeling, but most by self interest ; and their careless, irresponsible natures soon enabled them to assume their old relations, as if nothing had occurred to interrupt them. Their mas- ters in many cases allowed them the privilege of cul- tivating small plots of ground after their regular work- ing hours were over, and disposing of the proceeds of their labor for their own benefit; but through their
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" OLD BERGEN."
natural improvidence, such benefit was but temporary, and oftentimes questionable.
The following extract is from a newspaper of 1804: " At the Bear Market " ( now Washington ) " were seen on the Dock in the season for them, small stacks of cabbages, the perquisites, or overwork of the negro slaves from Hoboken, Paulus Hook and Communipau. They were brought over in canoes. After selling their stock, they would enjoy the jollification of a dance, upon the market floor, to the whistle of some favored one.
" They were very improvident, freely spending the proceeds of their hard labor, devoid of any care or solicitude, anxiety or forethought for the future, but perfectly contented and happy in the present."
The inhabitants of " Old Bergen " now devoted them- selves in the main to the cultivation of the soil. The farms and truck gardens soon showed the effect of their vigorous and intelligent treatment. Sloop loads of produce were ferried over to New York, and many of the comforts of home, which had disappeared dur- ing the unsettled times, were again replaced. The increase in population demanding better facilities for communication, new roads were laid out, so that all parts of the territory could be readily reached.
The formation of Bergen town in the shape of a square, with the cross streets, has been described. One of these streets (Bergen Avenue) extended on the south, about on its present line, to Bergen Point, meeting the Old Mill Road at Foye Place, and cross- ing the road from Communipau at Harrison Avenue.
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To the north it extended along what are now Sip and Summit Avenues, and beyond the Five Corners, into what was known as Bergen Woods. At the Five Corners, it intersected Newark and Hoboken Avenues.
Academy Street, another of the original streets crossing the square, extended on the west along pres- ent Tonnelle Avenue to what was called the Back Lots, now known as Homestead; and easterly to and along its present line, terminating abruptly at the rocks at Front Street, being opened through on its present grade in the early '50's. Summit Avenue ran from Academy Street south, as now, to Communi- paw, being intersected below present Montgomery Street by the old Mill Road. The northerly section from Academy Street to Sip Avenue was opened more recently.
Until about the year 1848, when Grand Street was opened along its present line, the inhabitants of Com- munipaw and the lower end of the county were obliged to drive around through Bergen Avenue to Five Corners, and thence via Newark Avenue to the ferry ; or take the Mill Road passing Prior's Mill. The latter route was, however, but little used, owing to the steep grade. Following the laying out of Grand and Montgomery Streets, the whole country was opened up so that transportation became compara- tively easy in any direction.
Chapter XXXIII.
CHANGES.
IN 1789 the ferry landing at Paulus Hook was im- proved by the placing of steps, down which the passengers climbed, while horses and wagons were urged or lifted aboard the boats that served as means of transportation. This ferry connected with the stage route for Philadelphia, the proprietors of which built a tavern near Grand Street; and as the boats ran only between sunrise and sunset, the passengers were obliged to cross the river the night before, and consequently enrich the whilom host with the cost of the night's lodging and entertainment.
The following announcement was offered to the travelling public: "The wagons to be kept in good order, with good horses and sober drivers. They pur- pose to set off from Philadelphia and Paulus Hook on Mondays and Thursdays punctually at sunrise, and be at Princetown the same nights, and change Passengers and return to New York and Philadelphia the follow- ing days. The Passengers are desired to cross Paulus Hook ferry the evening before, as the wagon is not to stay after sunrise. Price, each Passenger from Paulus Hook to Princetown, IOS .; from thence to Philadelphia, IOS .; also ferriage free. Three pence each mile any distance between. Any gentlemen or ladies wanting to go to Philadelphia can go in the stage and be at
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home in five days, and be two nights and one day in Philadelphia to do business or see the market days."
In 1790 the Newark turnpike road was laid out, and over this after that date the Philadelphia stages wended their way. A considerable portion of the road from Jersey City to Newark was bordered on both sides by a thick-growing cedar swamp, which, being full of con- venient hiding places, became the resort of thieves and robbers. Their depredations became so frequent, and the chance of apprehending them was so small, that in order to deprive them of this place of refuge, the whole tract was designedly burned.
It would seem, however, that previous to this time, a road existed leading to Newark via Belleville; for Brissot de Warville thus writes : " There is a causeway to Belleville built wholly of wood with much labor and perseverance, in the midst of water and soil, that trembles under your feet. It proves to what point may be carried the patience of man, who is determined to conquer nature." Another writer describes the delights of the journey as follows : " All the way to Newark (nine miles) is a very flat, marshy country intersected with rivers ; there are many cedar swamps abounding with mosquitoes, which bit our hands and legs exceedingly ; when they fix, they will continue sucking our blood if not disturbed, till they swell four times their ordinary size, when they absolutely fall off and burst with their fulness. . . At two miles we cross a large cedar swamp ; at three we intersect the road leading to Bergen, a Dutch town one-half mile distant on our right ; at five we cross the Hacken-
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sack." The mosquito is evidently, from the contents of this letter, not a product of our present civilization, but existed even in those conservative days, and con- ducted his business with the same active aggressiveness as in more modern times.
The Duke de Rochefoucauld travelled over the road in 1796, and said it was very disagreeable to the travel- ler, being exceedingly rough, as it consisted of trees having their branches cut away, disposed longitudinally one beside another, and slightly covered with earth. In 1794 Henry Wansey, an Englishman on a visit to this country, wrote : " It" (this road) " is very convenient for those who live at Newark, and carry on their business 'at New York. Taking an early start on the 4th of June, I crossed Hudson's River to Paulus Hook to take the stage ' Industry' for Philadelphia, an hour and a half being required to make the passage ; crossing the Hackensack, where a bridge was going to be built, to prevent the tedious passage by boat or scow, and the Passaic also, the coach and all in the scow, by means of pulling a rope which was fastened to the opposite side, we came to Newark." At this date, one stage sufficed for the transportation of residents of Newark who did business in New York, leaving Newark at six o'clock a. m., and returning from New York at three p. m.
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