USA > New Jersey > Hudson County > Bergen > Old Bergen: History and Reminiscences with Maps and Illustrations > Part 16
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And yet its very retirement, rendering it safe from unwelcome intrusion and difficult of access, it being reached only by a rough narrow path from the water, made it a resort for the vengeful and lawless. A long list might be published of those who came to this spot, determined to settle their differences according to the so called " Code of Honor ; " but none was so universally regretted as the unfortunate Hamilton, who in a moment of weakness, allowed himself to be- come the victim of vindictive passions. The march of improvements, necessitating the cutting away of the river bank for railroad purposes, has completely obliterated the spot, but the monument erected there-
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" OLD BERGEN."
on to commemorate the place, was moved to the top of the bluff directly back of its original location.
The original Hoboken ferry was established in
.
DUELLING GROUNDS AT PRESENT TIME.
1774, and like its fellows of that time, was of primitive construction, consisting of row and sail boats. In 18II, John Stevens applied steam ; but this apparently
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"OLD BERGEN."
was considered too expensive a method of propulsion, and was superseded by the use of horse-boats, as ap- pears from the following extract from a memorial which he presented March 12, 1814, to the municipal authorities of New York: "That your memoralist hath constructed a boat to be propelled by horses, or mules, which he contemplates to use on the ferry from the foot of Vesey Street to Hoboken, which he hopes will prove a substitute for a steamboat."
This boat seems to have been constructed on a somewhat different plan from those in use on the Paulus Hook ferry. " It had a circular platform in the center, with cleats to give the horses foothold, and the shaft of the paddlewheel was made to revolve by means of cranks on a small wheel on either side of the shaft, geared to a large wheel, on an upright spindle like a crab or cider mill, with two or four arms extending over the platform, and to these arms two, four or eight horses or mules were hitched."
In 1807, an event occurred which excited profound interest. Great crowds gathered along the shores of the Hudson, to witness the departure of a boat up the river, that was to defy wind and current. It was called the Clermont, and was built under the superin- tendence of Robert Fulton. The following advertise- ment appeared in the Albany Gasette of that date :
" The North River Steam Boat will leave Paulus Hook (Jersey City), on Friday the 4th of September, at nine o'clock in the evening. Provisions, good berths, and accommodation are provided. The charge to each passenger is as follows :
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"OLD BERGEN."
" Newburgh,
fare $3,
time 14 hours.
Po'keepsie,
$4,
I7
Esopus,
$5,
20
Hudson,
$512,
30
Albany,
$7
36
The dimensions of this boat were : length, 100 feet ; width, 12 feet ; depth, 7 feet. -
Chapter LII.
TRADITIONS AND REMINISCENCES.
BUT the domestic and familiar life of " Old Bergen " possesses an interest beyond that of mere personal associations. The habits and customs of the Father- land were here transplanted, and the tenacity with which the early settlers clung to them is illustrative of the peculiar steadfastness that is so characteristic of the Dutch temperament. From the Zabriskies on the north to the Van Buskirks on the extreme south, the whole territory was interspersed with the Newkirks, Van Winkles, Van Wagenens, Van Reypens, Brinkerhoffs, Posts, Vreelands and Van Hornes, the last two being very much in evidence.
These families formed a community of their own. They were easy-going folk, satisfied to follow the sun in its rising and its going down. Bound together not only by a community of interest, but oftentimes by ties of consanguinity, there was a kindly feeling, a warm-hearted sympathy, that could not exist under our changed conditions. The early settlers were simple in their wants and habits, and clung religiously to their old associations. They were slow to form new acquaintances, but were firm in their friendships ; and whatever local or individual differences
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" OLD BERGEN."
might arise, the whole community combined and acted under one impulse when the common interest was involved. Such to a marked degree were the traits displayed by the inhabitants of " Old Bergen."
In a community where the acquaintanceship extends back through a long series of years, and where also a general knowledge is handed down through generations, there is an intimacy and kindly feeling generated that could not be produced in this changing cosmopolitan age. The long, close knowl- edge of wants and conditions, interwoven with kindly acts and practical sympathy given and received, bound the whole neighborhood in the closest ties, so that they seemed as one unbroken family : the sorrows and afflictions, the trials and perplexities, as well as the joys and happiness, were as common property, and were participated in by all.
When death invaded a family circle, there was a general sadness and outpouring of practical sympathy to those immediately bereaved, and loving hands performed the sad services for the sorrowing. All joined in the simple funeral services and followed on foot the coffin borne on the shoulders of the nearest friends or relatives to its last resting place in the old graveyard, where rest the ashes of so many of our loved ones. The dominie and the doctor usually headed the procession, both wearing over the left shoulder a wide white linen scarf.
The weddings were then as now matters of great interest, and regarded with becoming attention, yet they were tinged with the good practical sense
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"OLD BERGEN."
that forbade wastefulness, or dissipation to an un- wonted extent. The bride and groom engaged in their ordinary occupations until near the hour for the ceremony, when, arraying themselves in whatever finery they possessed, they submitted to the ordeal with becoming resignation. After the ceremony, the festivities and feasting were indulged in at the house of the bride, and were continued the following day at the house of the bridegroom, after which the young couple were ready to settle down to the practical affairs of life, each anxious and willing to meet the responsibilities of the novel position.
Of course, under the then existing conditions, social intercourse and functions were limited, and very informal. There was a hard, practical side to life that does not exist in these days of countless conveniences ; house-keeping then meant actual per- sonal work, and most of the accomplishments taught the young society belle of the day were in the line of useful labor. The skill and ingenuity of the more modern brain had not then furnished the labor. saving machines that in these times divest home life of many of the hardships common to the olden time, and the daily duties of the family circle demanded an economical use of every passing hour. Social functions in their present . meaning were unknown, and such as were indulged in were combined with, and adapted to the existing domestic conditions. The general helpful spirit that prevailed prevented the existence of many of the anxieties and burdens so common to our social life; each guest became
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"OLD BERGEN."
a host and the dreadful fear of some impending breach of etiquette thereby avoided.
In those early days there was a division of labor in all branches of domestic econony, as well as in the rougher out-door work. Quilting bees and meetings for cutting and sewing carpet rags for the much-prized and gaudy floor covering, were joined in by the women, with the same general interest as harvesting or killing times or house raisings were indulged in by the men, and the winter after- noons and evenings were fixed on in advance, so that each in turn might secure the benefit of the general help. Their usual recreations were confined to the neighborly " running in " to gossip on domestic affairs or mayhap to relieve the weary watcher at the bed side of the sick, and the more formal afternoon gatherings or quilting bees, to which shortly after midday, each good dame could be seen wending her way, clad in kerchief and cap, while suspended from her waist was the capacious outside pocket containing a complete outfit for the prudent housewife, with the ball of yarn from which she knitted as she trudged along. These were indeed a welcome relief from the monotonous routine of the daily life, and the bustling dames, as they gathered at the appointed place, were gladly welcomed. With tongues that vied with their clicking needles, they discussed church matters, or, seated about the quilting frame, tracing the intricacies of the gorgeous " Fox Chase" or the solitary " Toad in the puddle," they reconciled all neighborhood differences.
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" OLD BERGEN."
And then the social teas in winter were looked forward to with plesant anticipations, at which perhaps a half dozen congenial couples enjoyed their weekly frolic after the labors of the day were completed. Each couple gave a tea in turn and they would meet at six o'clock, and rarely delayed their departure after ten. The interval was devoted to the enjoyment of the good things of this earth, prepared as only the Dutch housewife knew how, in utter violation of all the known rules of gastronomy or hygiene and with a result that proved all theories at fault. Such were the ordinary recreations of the staid married folk, who knew how to accept the blessings of this life in a becoming manner. Of course there was the periodical donation party or church fair, which awakened a transient excitement in the community, and the various holidays brought each its own peculiar enjoyments.
The annual church picnic was eagerly looked for- ward to by young and old, and its delights anticipated for weeks before the appointed time. As has been already stated, the church had an abiding place in the hearts of the people, and consequently the whole com- munity was stirred whenever it determined upon any course of action. When the picnic day was fixed, preparations were entered upon that would insure the greatest amount of enjoyment, and were commensurate with the importance of the occasion. The night pre- vious, the skies were eagerly scanned for premonitions of the weather, and the best bib and tucker laid out, which for the fair sex, of course, included colored rib-
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"OLD BERGEN."
bons and ruffled and embroidered dresses. At the ap- pointed time the rustic beaus and belles wended their way to the church, whither the youngsters had pre- ceded them, while the fathers and mothers, of a more practical turn of mind, finished packing the baskets with "goodies" of every description ; and when the start was finally made, the old folks were so fully im- bued with the spirit of the occasion that they were just as ready to surrender themselves to the delights of the day as the most enthusiastic of the little ones.
Wagons were lined up and packed so systematically that, in order to unload at all, it was necessary to ex- actly reverse the order of loading. As soon as all was ready, at the sound of a horn, a score or more of wagons started in a long line, with flags waving, chil- dren shouting, dust flying, all bent on crowding as much enjoyment as possible into the one day. Currie's Woods, located just south of the Morris Canal, and between the Old Road and Newark Bay, was always the objective point. In those days there were no groves, with dancing pavilions and variegated smells, but just plain, old-fashioned country woods, carpeted with nature's handiwork, with shady walks and nooks, and redolent with the perfumes distilled in nature's laboratory.
After the occupants of the wagons had been extri- cated from the same, there was a general scattering ; the children, to explore the hidden recesses of the woods, or look for shells on the shore of the Back Bay ; the older people, to busy themselves in the prep- aration of the picnic lunch, while the young men and
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"OLD BERGEN."
maidens, impelled by some mysterious law, paired off and wandered away, oftentimes to be seen no more until recalled by the sounding horns for return. The day passed all too quickly ; and when the shadows lengthened, the packing was repeated, and the whole concourse wended its way homeward, a tired, happy, dusty, rollicking lot of good old-fashioned Dutchmen, with friendships strengthened, burdens lightened, all stronger and better for the close, informal intercourse that marked the innocent enjoyment of the day.
Chapter LIV.
TRADITIONS AND REMINISCENCES, CONTINUED.
PAUSE and Pfingster were essentially Dutch institu- tions. On the one the coloring and cracking of eggs were indulged in with as much zest as are the Easter festivities at the White House at the present day ; while on Pfingster congenial couples might be seen riding and driving in every direction, oftentimes set- tling the most momentous affairs of life ere their re- turn.
The Fourth of July was celebrated with special en- thusiasm in the olden time, for the memories of Rev- olutionary struggles and hardships were so recent that the lustre of heroic deeds was yet undimmed. Its observance indicated that it was then invested with a deeper significance than in these latter days. Instead of being given up to noise and merry making, the oc- casion was arranged so as to fasten in the mind the patriotism of the forefathers, their sufferings and pri- vations, and the necessity of holding fast to their faith and doctrines, in order to insure the perpetuity of the Union.
Early in the day was seen and heard the bustle of preparation. A large tent was erected, and at an early hour the gathering began. They came singly, by
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" OLD BERGEN."
families, and by wagon loads, until nearly all the popu- lation was gathered within the confines of the parson- age orchard, before alluded to. Tables were spread,. and fairly groaned under the abundance of good things, prepared in accordance with the well tested rules of the good old Dutch housewife. The Declaration of Independence was first read, a suitable address was then delivered by the dominie or some other prominent person, and patriotic songs were sung by the Sunday School children. In this way was emphasized the im- portance of a strict adherence to the principles of Lib- erty and Justice. As an evidence of the enthusiasm with which the anniversary of our independence was celebrated in the early days, we have the following extract from The Sentinel of Freedom of July 28, 1812 :
" The farmers of Bergen, being informed that Capt. Decatur would pay them a visit from Newark on the morning of the Anniversary of our Liberty, with his Flying Artillery, and a troop of horse, on his way to New York, made preparations to receive him right royally ; but having waited in vain until eleven p. m., it was unanimously agreed to prepare cartridges, man a gun, and proceed to the City of Jersey to fire a sa- lute. Everything being ready by three-quarters past eleven, the party set out, and returned in twenty minutes, although having the misfortune to lose a linch pin, and break one of the axle-trees of the car- riage on the road thither."
The following program shows how the Fourth was observed at a somewhat later date :
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" OLD BERGEN."
A PUBLISHED PROGRAM FOR THE CELEBRATION OF THE 4TH OF JULY, 1835.
I. National salute fired at Bergen, and Ringing of Bells.
2. Procession form at ro o'clock precisely, at the upper Flag Staff, Bergen, and proceed to the church in following order :
OFFICERS OF THE DAY.
Artillery, Military, Band.
BEARERS OF LIBERTY CAP AND STANDARD.
Heroes of '76 and Banner.
Orator and Reader. Rev. Clergy.
CORPORATION OF BERGEN AND JERSEY CITY. Civic Authorities. Com. Arrangements. Citizens in general.
ORDER OF EXERCISES AT CHURCH.
Prayer. Ode. Declaration of Independence. Music by Band. Oration. Ode. Music by Band.
Benediction.
Preserve the same order from church, and proceed to the Square, where a National salute will be fired. Then proceed to Five Corners, dismiss and Dine.
The annual training day, when all able-bodied men were compelled to muster for enrollment and drill, was an occasion very generally recognized and gath- ered a most wonderful aggregation of armed warriors. At Christmas time Santa Claus was eagerly welcomed, and gifts were exchanged, the value of which was es .. timated not from a monetary standpoint, but because of the wealth of love and affection they represented,
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" OLD BERGEN."
But New Year's Day was the crowning event of the year, and was celebrated by all. Calls were inter- changed and friendships renewed in the social manner peculiar to those days, and from early morn until sometimes the dawning of the next day, the cordial greetings were given and received. On every New Year's Day, the Dominie made special addresses to the different classes of the congregation-the old, the middle-aged, and the young ; and in turn each stood as indicated. The fathers in Israel, with whitened heads and bent and tottering forms, listened to the words of love and encouragement from their revered pastor, as he assured them of his love and sympathy, and, commending them for their steadfastness, remind- ed them of the reward of the faithful. They were fol- lowed by the middle-aged, those who were in the full vigor of manhood; these he earnestly besought to bear the heat and burden of the day, and with wise and appropriate words, strengthened them in the faith. Lastly the young, so closely enwrapped in his affections, hung upon the kindly words spoken to them, as though his great love for them, impelled the going out to him of their young hearts, cheering and helping them by his loving admonitions and advice.
Chapter LV.
TRADITIONS AND REMINISCENCES, CONTINUED.
THE amusements of the young from their very sim- plicity, were the more enjoyable. The young ladies' constitutions in those days did not require expensive theatre parties and late suppers to revive their failing energies. When an outing was determined upon, the young man appeared on horseback, and halting at the mounting block, one of which adorned every front entrance, awaited the appearance of his maid, who mounted upon the pillion behind him and, prompted by a very proper Dutch timidity, clasped him convulsively about the waist to ensure herself against falling. They ambled along the leafy paths and shady roads, returning with an appetite that enabled them to do full justice to the bountiful meal awaiting them.
This horseback riding was followed by the more exclusive buggy, and long lines of these easy-riding vehicles, wending their way in the evening in every direction, testified to their popularity. Often a stop would be made at some convenient hostelry, where, under the inspiration of the negro fiddler, the hours were all too quickly consumed in the delights of the fascinating schottische, the stately quadrille, or the more rollicking Virginian reel. Oh! the delights of those moonlight rides through the shady back road,
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"OLD BERGEN."
not a sound to be heard save the rustling of the shim- mering leaves and the katydid's chirp, as the horse ambled softly along, guided by fair hands-for the girls insisted on driving when the woods came in
CIDER PRESS
sight, and the intelligent animal softened his gait to a slow walk, as if to express his intense sympathy.
Again, at the proper seasons, picnics, straw-rides and sleigh-rides were indulged in, and the absence of formality, and the consciousness that all were pos- sessed of a sincere spirit of friendliness, made them most enjoyable.
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" OLD BERGEN."
In winter at the first indication of sufficient snow, the girls were notified, wagon boxes were placed on runners and filled with sweet, well-cured salt hay or straw, and an abundance of buffalo robes furnished. In the early evening hour the favored ones were called for, and to the music of silvery voices and resonant sleigh bells, the distance to Bergen Point or Hackensack was soon covered and the remaining hours devoted to that superlative enjoyment that can be fully appreciated only through realization. The names of Wauters and Pennoyer are so thoroughly identified with good substantial suppers and terpsi- chorean exercise that their mere mention opens up the vista of the past and brings again to view the scene in all its vivid freshness.
Along what was called Back Lane, now West Side Ave- nue, were melon patches and a peach orchard, possess- ing great attraction for the youth of the day, espe- cially as there were cedar woods hard by, whose low, bushy branches afforded a convenient place of refuge from the eyes of the sometimes too inquisitive owners.
Probably the most attractive place in the old town at a certain season of the year was Van Wagenen's cider press (near where his house now stands), about which the boys clustered like flies around a molasses barrel ; and no wonder, for no more exquisite enjoy- ment could be devised than a judicious combination of a well selected straw and an overflowing cider bar- rel. Jove never sipped more delicious nectar, than the new cider, wrapping as it did the senses in a most ecstatic dream, and obliterating all idea of present or future responsibility.
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"OLD BERGEN."
Near by could be seen, on warm, sunny days, the portly form of " Old Uncle Gatty," seated in the midst of his beehives, calmly smoking his old clay pipe, blackened by long use, and watching his industrious workers as they piled up their wealth of sweetness. Although ignorant, perhaps, of what might be termed scientific bee lore, his knowledge of the habits of the little insects was verified by the seeming affection with which they encircled him, buzzing about his head as though trying to inform him of the discovery of some new, honey-laden flower, or lingering for a moment for his words of praise and encouragement. He talked with them as though he considered them possessed of human intelligence, and whenever any one exhibited unusual stupidity, his favorite com- parison, spoken in the Dutch vernacular, was : " Huh ! you don't know half as much as one of my bees!"
The harvesting was carried on by an interchange of services, and the " killing time " (which always came after cold weather had set in), when the well nurtured hogs and beeves were deftly despatched to their happy grazing fields, was oftentimes made an occasion of great jollification. The farmers arranged to assist each other, so that the labor was lightened, and, with few exceptions, the work of the day finished by mid- afternoon. After refreshments, "weight guessing" was indulged in, while the sedative pipe quieted the nerves of those who had become unduly excited, and prepared them for a like experience at some neighbor- ing farm the following day. The young people always longed eagerly for this time, when the old kitchen
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" OLD BERGEN."
became redolent with savory smells, and the manufac- ture of sausage, roelechas, head cheese and, last but not least, the aromatic mince meat, suggested possi- bilities scarcely realized in an Epicurean dream.
The skins of the cattle killed were sent to the tan- nery, the proprietor of which exacted as toll one-half the quantity tanned. The leather returned to the farmer was laid aside to await the periodical visit of the shoemaker, whose custom was to travel from house to house, in order to make or cobble the shoes of the family.
Another industry in the fall was the collecting of honey from the beehives, which were to be found near every well regulated farm house; and lucky was the youngster who received permission to participate in this work. There was something so fascinating in the thought of being wakened in the early morning hours and groping through the gloom to the kitchen, where the flickering light of the fire only disclosed the shad- ows and dark recesses of the room, thereby increasing the chills that made the teeth clatter like castanets, not to be dispelled until after the disappearance of a bowl of hot supporn. Then, each person being pro- vided with the ever-present woolen comforter closely wrapped about the neck and head, with a mysterious air and stealthy tread, in true keeping with the nefari- ous deed about to be performed, the expedition started, and it was an experience never to be forgotten.
The honey could be collected with comparative safety in the early morning, when the crisp, cold air had benumbed the active little denizens of the hive,
.
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" OLD BERGEN.'
and rendered them unable to use their natural means of defense in resisting the attack upon their stores of wealth. Preparations were made the night before by wrapping pine splints with cotton cloth and dipping them in melted brimstone. In the morning these were lighted and placed beneath the hives, and the fumes so stupified the bees that the plunderers were enabled to select at will such combs of honey as seemed to them judicious. Usually sufficient store was left to afford the bees a meagre sustenance until the return of the spring sunshine again tempted them forth in search of their natural food, but frequently the whole hive was denuded and the bee family de- stroyed.
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