USA > New Jersey > Hudson County > Bergen > Old Bergen: History and Reminiscences with Maps and Illustrations > Part 15
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At the corner of Glenwood Street and Bergen Ave- nue stood an old tavern, built in the early colonial days, which was a favorite stopping place for refreshments with Washington and his officers, while their escort encamped in the Tuers orchard opposite, on part of which the Fourth Regiment Armory stands. This old hostelry was justly celebrated for its cooking, and its fame continued to a very late day. Even down to the Fifties, when, after the fatigues of the Annual Training Day, the officers were constrained to seek refreshment with which to regale themselves, this noted place was selected with a unanimity that be- tokened previous favorable acquaintance with its cui- sine.
At Bergen Square on the southeast corner still stands the old De Mott homestead, modernized of course, where Gen. Washington enjoyed the lavish hospitality of its owner. On the east side of Bergen Square just south of Academy Street, a whipping post stood, and such was the terror inspired by the severe flagellations inflicted by the town constable, that wrong doers kept aloof, with the result that the community enjoyed an unusual sense of security. In
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fact, fifty years ago no locks were used on the doors, and frequently throughout the hot summer nights, the upper halves of the doors were left open, so as to afford free ventilation. Sometimes the roystering spirits of the day took advantage of the confidence exhibited by the "Old Settlers," and the good dame found in the morning that some of her luscious pies and other goodies had vanished during the night. But this, being only an occasional occurrence, was submitted to with resignation and regarded as but the result of youthful exuberance.
Sometimes, however, the improvident blacks, unable to withstand the temptation to which they were sub- jected, purloined the pork and corned beef that were carefully " laid away " in the cellar for the winter's use. This seems to have been regarded as an unpardonable sin, for a general search was made, and the offender was made to realize the truth of the admonition that " the way of the transgressor is hard." When captured, he was taken to the whipping post, and, his outer cloth- ing having been removed, was made to clasp his arms about it ; his feet were then fastened at the ground and, his wrists being tied together, his arms were drawn up and fastened by means of a rope passing through the top of the post, and the punishment inflicted.
The constable then in a loud voice told of the na- ture of the offence and descanted upon its enormity, counselling repentance and a return to the way of uprightness, pronouncing sentence of banishment in the meanwhile. The last two persons punished in this way were two men who were detected in the act
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of thieving, a colored man and his dissolute white companion.
A short distance from the Square, on the west, fronting on the opposite sides of Academy Street, are the Van Wagenen and Van Reypen homesteads. To the north, about two hundred feet from the Square on Bergen Avenue, is the Sip homestead, and near by, on the opposite side, the Hornblower house, the site of Capt. Forsyth's outpost during the Revolution, before mentioned.
A burying-ground for the colored people was located in Van Reypen's orchard, between the Boulevard and Van Reypen Street, about two hundred feet southerly of a line projected west from the south side of Acad- emy Street. There was also one about the center of the plot bounded by Bergen Avenue, Enos Place and Newkirk Street. This was formerly an Indian bury- ing-ground, and in recent years, when an excavation was made, human bones were found that indicated the interment of a race far above the average height.
The last interment in this spot was Newkirk's Sam, as late as 1853. He had been during the latter part of his life engaged specially in the care of a team of horses belonging to his employer, which were in the nomenclature of the day called, " Dick horse " and " Sal horse." Sam always entertained a warm affec- tion for Dick; and when in the course of time, the horse succumbed to the feebleness of old age and died, Sam earnestly besought his employer to bury the horse in this old burying-ground, so that he him- self could be buried along side of him, exacting a
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promise to that effect. It is needless to say that this promise was adhered to, and Sam's last resting place was by the side of his faithful old friend, for whom he had an abiding affection. Sam, by his integrity and faithfulness, had won the respect of many of the neighbors, and his funeral services from the old New- kirk homestead were largely attended by both black and white.
In his earnestness in the dissemination of some of his doctrines, Sam sometimes neglected to gauge his capacity for the spiritual consolation in which he in- dulged, with the result that on one occasion at least, he was so overcome that he was placed in a chair and borne to his home by the hands of sympathizing comrades. Some time after, on being shown the pic- ture of an Indian prince carried in a sedan chair, he recalled his experience, and ever afterward boasted of his princely method of locomotion, claiming it as an evidence of his royal descent.
On an eminence on the bank of the ‘Pennsylvania Railroad cut, near the east side of the Boulevard, can be still seen the Tonnelle homestead, the scene of much merry making in the olden time. The estate ex- tended to Summit Avenue, and from Pavonia Avenue to near the present line of the Railroad. The house is substantially built of the enduring granite of Bergen Hill, and with a little renovation may be made to last another century. The approach to this house was from Summit Avenue, and was rather imposing. Heavy iron gates suspended from massive stone pillars guarded the entrance, while on either side of the well
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shaded lane were grassy enclosures, well stocked with deer, while the shrill cry of gaudy, bedizened peacocks greeted the welcome visitor.
At the Five Corners were sundry hostelrys con- venient for the refreshment of the weary traveller, even from colonial days ; and in later years these were resorted to by the socially inclined who wished to in- dulge in the periodical gatherings for the "D.D.'s," -dancing and dinners-and were likewise selected as the most convenient place for the voters of "Old Bergen " township to exercise their right of franchise.
From "Lee's Memoirs " we learn that Washington's favorite position was near " the western shore of the Hudson, which was always considered by him the point of connection of the two extremes of the Union." He frequently met his generals on the hills of "Old Bergen," and there discussed the projects on the execu- tion of which the fate of the young republic depended. And it is well authenticated that, on one occasion at least, he and Lafayette dined together under an apple tree that stood in the orchard of the old parsonage, on the northwest corner of Bergen Square.
From a letter descriptive of the visit of Lafayette to this country in 1824, I quote: "On his arrival at Jersey City, remaining but a short time, the General, with His Excellency, Governor Williamson, entered a superb carriage drawn by four beautiful bay horses, and a cavalcade was formed, which proceeded leisurely toward Newark. Arrived at Bergen, it was found that the inhabitants of the little town had assembled at the tavern, on the southwest corner of Summit and
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Newark Avenues, and were so anxious to pay their respects to the General, that he was constrained to alight for a moment.
" Here unexpectedly, he was addressed by a delega- tion from the Town, and presented with a cane made from an apple tree, under which, when passing through that town during the Revolution, he and Washington dined. The cane is richly mounted with gold and bears the following inscription on the top: 'Lafay- ette,' and around the head, 'Shaded the Hero and his friend Washington in 1779. Presented by the Corpor- ation of Bergen, 1824.' As the General re-entered his carriage and left this ancient town, he was heartily cheered."
At the breaking out of the war of 1812, the United States government secured a plot of ground on the west side of Palisade Avenue, between Hoboken and Newark Avenues, where an arsenal was erected. This was likewise used as a barracks for enlisted men dur- ing the Civil War. Opposite the arsenal was the Harrison estate, by which name the property is still known. It is located on the brow of the hill east of Summit and between Newark and Hoboken Avenues. It was noted for the lavish hospitality and sporting proclivities of its owners, some of whom met an un- timely end by their indulgence in their favorite pas- time.
Chapter LI.
HOBOKEN.
AT Hoboken was the " Elysian Fields," the fashion- able pleasure resort of the day, and crowds daily wended their way thither from New York to enjoy its shady walks and quaff the refreshing beer dispensed in this vicinity. It was here that P. T. Barnum insti- tuted a buffalo hunt in the Forties. He chartered all the boats plying to Hoboken on the day appointed, and by judicious advertising, of which art he was a past master, attracted a great crowd to see the sport. Unfortunately for the seekers after excitement, the sedative qualities of Hoboken's atmosphere produced such an effect on the " wild untamable " animals, that they refused utterly to be disturbed in their medita- tions, and the only real hunt that took place at the time was that for sufficient refreshment with which to regale the famished multitude.
This was likewise the scene of many hotly contested athletic games, and many barbecues were held here. It was in short the spot where all lovers of sport in those days were wont to congregate. Along the river bank, under the shade of Castle Point, was the Sibyl's Cave, where cool, refreshing water that bubbled from the spring located there, was sold to thirsty way- farers at one cent a glass.
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Of early Hoboken, Lawrence La Bree thus enthusi- astically writes : " There was no lovelier spot dotting the bosom of the Mahakenaghtus than the little island known as Hoboken, or by the Indians called Hobuk. Its shores on either side were laved by the waters of the great river, and the beauty of its scenery made it one of the favorite haunts of the red man. Its most prominent point overlooks the waters of the bay, and commands an extensive view for some dis- tance up the river, the entire scope of the island, and the cliffs and mountains to the westward and north- west. Here met the savages in council, and here arose their conical huts ; here were chanted their war songs, and here each season were celebrated the fes- tivities of the harvest feast. Here the swart chief, the leader of a thousand braves, recounted his victor- ies, and exhibited the trophies of an hundred battles, and the young warrior stretching his lithe limbs upon the green sward, beneath the branches of the over- shadowing oak, wooed the nut-brown maid and charmed her soul with his passionate declarations. Beautiful island, like an emerald set in the bosom of an Indian princess, there was no peer above thee in all the bright waters around that kissed thy shores as amorously, as ever the fondest lover breathed his adoration on the lips of his mistress. No foe could approach them unobserved, for watchful eyes scanned continually the surrounding waters. The fame of the braves had reached the great tribes of the west, and secured for them immunity from the raids and attacks of wandering bands."
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As before stated, Nicholas Verlett received a grant of Hoboken from Gov. Stuyvesant in 1663. His granddaughter married one Robert Hickman, who sold the land, June 9, 1711, to Samuel Bayard. The latter erected a country residence at Castle Point, where he was wont to retire to escape the summer heats, and entertain his friends and acquaintances in the princely manner for which he was noted. Bayard was an enthusiastic royalist, and joined the English army at the beginning of the Revolutionary troubles. During the war his property was raided several times, and on August 24, 1780, his residence was burned by a foraging party of Patriots, who obtained consider- able plunder, and carried off a number of cattle. Under the Act of 1778, this property was afterwards confiscated, and it was sold by the government to John Stevens on February 7, 1787, whose descendants still retain the ownership of a considerable portion of the territory.
To the energy, liberality and wise policy of the Stevens family, much of the present attractiveness and prosperity of Hoboken is due. Mr. Stevens, who was closely identified with the early history of Hoboken, was an engineer of wide reputation, as well as a natural practical machinist. He was far in advance of the times, and often promulgated his theories at the risk of ridicule and contumely ; he was continually engaged in experiments tending toward the improvement and betterment of the human race, and was pointed at as one of those enthusiasts who had gone daft because of close investigation and
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study. When the Legislature of New York was con- sidering the construction of the Erie Canal, "Col. Stevens of Hoboken astonished that body by announc- ing that he could build a railroad at a much less cost than the proposed canal, and on which the transportation by means of cars drawn by a steam locomotive could be carried at a much cheaper rate and at a much higher rate of speed than was possible on any canal."
He was laughed at and called a maniac, and some of his best friends thought he had lost his mental equi- poise through experimental science. Even Chancellor Livingston, in a letter dated Mar. 2, ISII, says: "I had before read of your very ingenious proposition as to railroad communication. I fear, however, on ma- ture reflection that they will be liable to serious objec- tions. . . . In case of necessary stops or stays to take wood or water many accidents would happen. ... Upon the whole, I fear the expense would be much greater than that of canals, without being so conven- ient." Present results have proven the truth and wisdom of Col. Stevens' assertion.
The City was regularly laid out in 1804, but for some reason it did not commend itself as a place of residence for some years. In 1834 it was described as a place "built chiefly on one street. It contains about one hundred dwellings, three licensed taverns, and many unlicensed ones, four or five stores, and be- tween six and seven hundred inhabitants. It is re- markable chiefly, however, as a place of resort for the citizens of New York during the hot days of
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summer. The bank of the river is high, and the invigorating sea breeze may be enjoyed at almost all hours when the sun is above the horizon.
" In the walks along the river bank, over the grounds, and in the beautiful fields studded with clumps of trees and variegated by shady woods, the business man of New York finds a momentary relaxation and enjoyment in the 'Elysian Fields,' and the gastro- nome, whether of the Corporation of New Amstel, or an invited guest, may find a less rural, but not a more sensual pleasure in the feast of Turtle."
Another description worthy of note because of its truthfulness is as follows : " On Sunday afternoon we stepped into a small steamboat bound across the river, where lie in all their natural and cultivated beauty the 'Elysian Fields,' meant to be, I suppose, a second edition of the Heaven of the Ancients, but judging from a description of the one, and the sight of the other, the modern scene is neither greatly improved nor enlarged. There are many hills and dales, wind- ing walks, grass-covered plains, and shaded seats in great profusion, and altogether they do much credit to the taste of the proprietor and the public. There appears to be a considerable degree of levity amongst those who resort to this spot of Sunday recreation, which is but little in accordance with our Scotch notion of Presbyterian propriety."
Rev. Dr. Abeel, who was stationed at English Neighborhood in charge of the Reformed Dutch Church at that place between 1825 and 1828, some- times visited the territory of Hoboken and adjacent
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thereto. Finding at Hoboken several of the residents identified with the Reformed Dutch Church, who were wont to cross the river to New York to attend religious services, while others were connected with the congregations at Bergen, he urged upon them the advisability of establishing a church there. Ho- boken at this time was sparsely settled, it being mainly considered a place of recreation and enjoyment for the pleasure-loving denizens of New York. On Sundays especially, multitudes thronged its borders, and the whole day was devoted to all manner of pas- times. There seemed no opportunity for the holding of public worship, but Dr. Abeel finally arranged with one of the hotel proprietors for the occupancy of his ball-room on Sunday evenings, for the purpose of worship. It was not deemed judicious to attempt services until after the crowds had departed, and accordingly the time of assembling was to be deter- mined by the ringing of the last ferry bell. The boats left Hoboken for their last trip at eight o'clock, and it was the custom to ring the ferry bell vigorously at that hour so that the belated traveller would hasten his steps. Consequently it was full half an hour later before the services commenced.
These services were held intermittingly until 1828, when Dr. Abeel was succeeded at English Neighbor- hood by Rev. Philip Duryea, and he, in connection with Rev. Dr. Taylor, of Bergen, alternated the Sabbath evening services twice in each month. These services were held in the old schoolhouse, and contin- ued until about 1830, when the Protestant Episcopal
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Church was erected through the liberality and cooper- ation of several families belonging to that denomina- tion. On account of the then existing conditions, it was not possible to sustain more than one religious enterprise, and the Dutch Reformed services were dis- continued, several of the congregation worshipping at Bergen and New Durham. With occasional attempts, no permanent result was secured until Sept., 1850, when an application was presented to the Classis for establishing a Reformed Dutch Church. This request was granted and the church organized Oct. 27th the same year.
Hoboken was likewise noted as the home of the " Hoboken Turtle Club," that coterie of Epicureans, who rivalled the old Romans in the variety and abun- dance of the feasts they prepared.
Chapter LII.
HOBOKEN AND TRADITION
TRADITION relates a sorrowful romance in connec- tion with Castle Point. It is said that on the return of Hudson from his explorations up the Hudson, lured by the beauty of the spot, he determined to land and make closer acquaintance with its attractions. Accordingly he cast anchor in Weehawken Bay, and as his vessel was at once surrounded by Indians in their canoes, he made them understand by signs that on the morrow he would visit their chiefs. Where- upon they departed, and commenced great prepara- tions for the reception of the white strangers.
The chiefs arrayed themselves in glossy skins, orna- mented with feathers and rare-colored shells, while the women of the tribe were dressed in all their finery, which consisted for the most part of highly colored pliable mats or blankets, made from the finest of rushes, and shell necklaces. Hudson and his crew donned their brightest uniforms, and with well polished weapons, presented a goodly array as they disembarked from their vessel. Great curiosity was manifested by all the Indian women, while the braves, although evidently impressed by the gallant bearing of their visitors, preserved that stolid, indifferent demeanor for which the savage has ever been noted.
After a formal welcome by the chiefs, and a judi-
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cious distribution of presents by Hudson, the pipe was passed from mouth to mouth and formality dis- pensed with. Among the party of Hudson was a young gallant, formerly attached to the English court, but who, influenced by his love of adventure, had cast in his lot with the discoverers. He was conspicuous by reason of his great stature and comely appearance, and noting in the daughter of the chief, who was eye- ing him furtively, a person of uncommon grace and beauty, he determined to ply the arts that had been so successful at court, and enliven the time by a flirtation with this forest beauty.
He contrived to make her understand what great havoc she had created with his affections, and soon they were familiarly conversing with signs, which were interpreted the more easily through that innate sym- pathy which is common alike to the maiden of the forest and the belle of the drawing-room. They
wandered away through the forest shades, and soon reached a secluded spot on the shore, where they sat down side by side on a fallen log, she reclining lightly against his shoulder. But in spite of the peaceful surroundings, the scene was soon to be changed. One of the warriors, who had long wooed the Indian maiden, and was only waiting to secure sufficient wealth to exchange for her with her father-the old chief-had watched the advances of the bold gallant with a jealous eye, and stealthily followed them through the forest's depths.
His savage nature could not calmly submit to be thus thrust aside for this bold stranger, and as he
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noted the caresses with which the latter punctuated his sign language, he became inflamed with hate, and several times raised his bow in readiness to send on its mission the deadly arrow, but as often relaxed his effort. But when he saw the maiden almost reclining in the embrace of the stranger, his anger became so fierce, that, maddened beyond restraint, he drew the bow to its utmost tension, and let fly the fatal arrow with so sure an aim that it not only pierced the body of the maiden, but inflicted a mortal wound on the gallant. With features convulsed with jealous anger and rage, he rushed forward to find the maiden's life- blood gushing forth in streams, and her suitor with agony depicted on his features, endeavoring to stanch the wound in his own breast. Seeing the approach of the savage, he gaspingly pleaded for his life, but of no avail. With demoniacal laughter the crushing blow descended, and man and maiden both lay in the em- brace of death at the feet of the infuriated savage. Suddenly seizing the body of the maiden, he bore it on his shoulders, and laid it at the feet of the old chieftain, indicating that her death was caused by the white men whom he was then entertaining.
The fiery, untamed nature of the savage burst forth, and threatening glances were cast upon Hudson and his men. They soon saw that instant flight alone could save their lives from the now thoroughly aroused Indians, and an immediate retreat was ordered. The savages pressed them closely, but by keeping in close array, with blunderbusses ready for action, they were able to reach their boats in safety, and were soon
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pulled to their vessel. They here missed their com- panion, but as the shades of night were drawing on, determined that nothing could be done until morning.
At the early dawn of the following day the shrill warwhoop of the Indians was heard, and on looking forth, their uncertainty as to the young man's fate was dispelled, for, circling the vessel in his bark canoe was a savage in full war-paint, brandishing the yellow scalp lock of their companion. So threatening did the aspect of the Indians become, that Hudson im- mediately weighed anchor and departed from so dan- gerous a neighborhood.
For over twenty years Hoboken was the liome of the New York Yacht Club, which was founded in 1844 by John C. Stevens. The first meeting was held on board his schooner yacht, the Gimcrack. In response to his invitation, nine gentlemen appeared and organ- ized what is now one of the most celebrated yacht clubs in the world. In 1845, the first club house was built in the " Elysian Fields," and this continued to be the club's home until 1868, when its headquarters was transferred to Staten Island.
In the early days Hoboken was, like its neighboring city, at times surrounded by water, the high ground terminating at Castle Point forming an island. An old description states: "Hoboken is an island, the westerly side of which is one-half mile from the New Jersey Shore." This space has since been filled in by natural and artificial means, so that the old creek and marshes by which it was surrounded have almost en- tirely disappeared,
WEEHAWKEN DUELLING GROUND.
WHERE BURR AND HAMILTON FOUGHT. 1801
1804
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Above Weehawken and just south of the West shore ferry landing, is the site of the famous duelling ground, specially noted as the spot where the la- mented and scholarly Hamilton met his untimely end at the hands of the polished and courtly, yet infamous Burr. About twenty feet above the surface of the water that laves the foot of the overhanging cliffs was a small grassy plateau, about sixty by one hundred feet in area, completely shut off from the surrounding country by perpendicular cliffs reaching up on the sides and back. These in summer were covered withi a profusion of vines and mosses, and with the broad river below glittering in quiet ripples, and a rampart of cedar and other bushes at the edge that screened it from the gaze of any casual passer by, it was a spot of unusual beauty, suggesting a peace and quietness, utterly at variance with the bloody deeds there enacted.
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