USA > New Jersey > Hudson County > Bergen > Old Bergen: History and Reminiscences with Maps and Illustrations > Part 14
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then rushing, plunging, jumping, rolling down the stairs, and landing in some mysterious way, yet scarcely awake, in the fire boots that stood at the foot. Then intent on gaining the post of honor (the tiller) in advance of any other, he would speed to the engine house and strain every nerve to move the machine toward the scene of conflagration. The excitement would grow apace, as the different companies struggled in their endeavor to "get on first water," and the hoarse shouts of the firemen and the clanging of the engine pumps excited an enthusiasm that seems to linger through all the passing years.
There are still standing some of the old dwellings, erected far back in colonial times, which bear evidence of the substantial manner in which the houses of those days were built. The Demotte and Zabriskie man- sions at North Bergen, the Van Horne homestead at Communipaw, the Gautier home at Greenville and the Vreeland house at Cavan Point are instances ; and could the walls of these venerable structures speak, many tales of the privations and sufferings of the early settlers, as well as much secret history of the Revolution, would be rescued from the oblivion into which they have fallen. The Gautier home was origi- nally built by one Tom Brown in 1760, who was a privateer, and in 1747 married a Van Buskirk, who had inherited a large tract of land, on a part of which the building stood, it being contained in the patent confirmed by Governor Carteret in 1667 to Lawrence Adriense.
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" OLD BERGEN."
This Captain Brown was the person who established and maintained a ferry across the Hackensack, known as Brown's Ferry, which after 1715, when the road to Newark was laid out, was one of the connecting links in the stage route from New York to Philadelphia. He was a sturdy patriot, and espoused the cause of Independence with great vigor. Tradition states that in his early days he became very familiar with the coast of Africa, and frequently ran into the harbor a cargo of slaves, some of whom were confined in the cellar of the house, while he was negotiating their sale. The old home was likewise the scene of many gatherings, attracted thither by the well-known lavish hospitality of its owner; and its spacious banqueting hall and roomy parlors entertained many of the notables of the day in feasting and revelling, such as was peculiar to the early times. During the Revolu- tion it became the rendezvous for patriot officers and sympathizers, whose drooping spirits were often in- spired through the genial hospitality so bountifully dispensed within its walls.
The Vreeland homestead was another ancient build- ing that stood a few hundred feet north of the one just mentioned, being located like it on the shore of the Bay. It was a conspicuous object to all sailing up the harbor, and its prominence subjected it to rather rough usage. During the early colonial days and the Revolutionary War the old house sustained many attacks from the Indians, and many a bullet hole in the old oaken wood-work testified to the fierceness of attack and defence. During the Revolution, an Eng-
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"OLD BERGEN."
lish war ship opened fire upon the house, and in after years a cannon ball, imbedded in its wall, was shown as proof of the danger to which its inmates were subjected. In this, as well as in its neighbor before spoken of, many a merry dance was held and countless guests royally entertained by the old Dutch settlers.
The absorption of the valuable water-front of Communipaw by our large railroad corporations, and the consequent filling in and docking out, have forced the " old settlers " away, and one by one they have departed, some to that other country where rest and peace continuously prevail, while the later genera- tions have moved to more pleasant surroundings, until at the present writing but one remains (Mr. Garret Bushı), who, amid the changes and encroachments, still clings to the home of his fathers. The charm that lingered so long over the old settlement has gone, and the ancient roof-trees have been demolished or so changed that the spirit of "Long Ago " has fled, never to return.
The following newspaper clipping of 1873 is of interest as showing how, even to that late date, the old hamlet slept in pristine quietude. "The ancient hamlet of Communipau, lying on the New Jersey shore within sight of New York, is a precious relic of the days long gone. Two centuries and a half have hallowed its fields and homes as the dwelling places of men. Only a cannon-shot distance from the Battery, it sleeps across the Bay in its ancient Dutch repose, only a half hour from the marble and gilt of the new, to the moss-grown homesteads of the old ; only a
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half hour from the dash and rattle of Broadway to the whispering of the thousand shells that yet line the quiet beach of old Pavonia."
There is a tradition that one day in early spring there appeared two strangers upon the shore of Com- munipaw, who, seeking out the "oldest inhabitants," strove to gather such traditions and reminiscences as they were able. The one was very talkative and entertaining, while the other wandered about at will and gathered up much of the material which, woven into the delightful fabric with which Diedrich Knick- erbocker has enveloped the early history of our Dutch ancestors, has endowed it with such resistless charm and attractiveness.
In the translation of an account of a voyage to New Amsterdam in 1679 we find the following, which shows somewhat of the settlement and surroundings. Says the traveller : "Intending to visit Communipau, our landlady told us of another good woman who lived at that place named Fitje, and recommended us to visit her, which we did as soon as we landed. We found her a little pious after the manner of the country, and you could discover that there was something of the Lord in her, but very much covered up and defiled. We dined there and spoke to her of what we deemed necessary for her condition. She has many grand children, all of whom are not unjust. We continued our journey along a fine, broad wagon-road to the other village called Bergen, a good half hour or three- quarters inland from there."
Chapter XLIX.
CHANGES AND OLD LANDMARKS CONTINUED.
UNTIL very. recently at Communipaw, on the high, projecting bank near the Old Mill Creek, hard by the site of the Indian massacre of the early days, stood the Van Horne farm-house. From its prominent position, affording a full view of the waters of the bay and surroundings, this house became a favorite "look- out " for the Americans during the Revolution, and a system of signals was agreed upon to be given from this point, as a warning to those of the settlers who had ventured across the bay to sell their produce to the British army, whenever any danger was to be apprehended from the Tories or refugees lurking in the neighborhood. It was the habit of the enemy to lay in wait for the returning burghers and rob them of the proceeds of their sales.
Northwest from the Van Horne house was the Race Track, established in 1769 by Cornelius Van Vorst. It was laid out on the sand hills, then stand- ing between York Street and Wayne, and above Var- ick. It was one mile in length, and was a noted place of resort for the lovers of sport from New York and the surrounding country, until the Revolutionary War. After peace was declared, it was again opened, but was discontinued in 1808, when a new track was
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established at Harsimus, near the Erie Railroad at Henderson Street.
Near the corner of Green and Montgomery Streets, (at that time the river bank), at a point now occupied by the Pennsylvania Railroad tracks, Isaac Edge in 1815 built a windmill, which was taken down in 1839 and removed to Long Island. In 1856 Lewis A. Edwards of Orient, Long Island, wrote in relation to it : " Your old windmill though 'demolished ' is not ' defunct.' It was placed on board of vessels and con- veyed around the eastern extremity of the North Branch of Long Island into Town Harbor, and from thence taken to Mill Hill in the town of Southold, in Suffolk County, where it was again placed upon its pins, as natural as life.
" We live in a migratory age, but a migratory wind- mill, even at this day, may be considered a novelty. The old mill is now in an excellent state of preserva- tion, notwithstanding its forty years' wear and tear, and one hundred and EDGE'S WINDMILL. twenty-five miles of travel, and I venture to say would stand as severe a tilt with ' Don Quixote' as any mill I ever came in contact. with."
A short distance south of the Old Mill, between
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York and Grand Streets, and about one hundred feet east of Green, was the ferry landing, alluded to else- where. April Ist, 1839, this was moved to the corner of Hudson and Montgomery Streets, and at the time of the extension of Exchange Place, was changed to its present location.
The ferry facilities at first consisted of a gallows frame, painted green, supporting iron pulleys, over which a chain was passed, one end of which was at- tached to the floating bridge, while to the other end balancing weights were fastened, so that the bridge could accommodate itself to the rise and fall of the tides, thus facilitating the loading or unloading of the boats.
The row boats, and periaguas or sail boats of the early days were succeeded by what was called the horse boat on the Paulus Hook ferry. In this the propelling power was obtained by means of an endless moving platform, after the manner of a tread mill, on which a horse walked, and which turned a paddle wheel by a combination of cog-wheels. Sometimes slaves were employed for this purpose, and the weird songs in which they frequently indulged greatly re- lieved the weariness of the passage.
The first steamboats used on this ferry were com- posed of two hulls fastened strongly together, leaving a space between, in which was suspended a paddle wheel. One side of the boat, over one hull, was in- tended for the accommodation of vehicles and cattle, and the other side was furnished with seats for pas- sengers. Both sides were uncovered, but below the passenger side, a cabin was fitted up, so that in case
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. of stormy or inclement weather, the passengers might seek protection from the elements. There were two of these boats, named respectively York and Jersey.
Early one Sunday morning in February, 1816, dur- ing a season of extreme cold, there were seen on an ice floe floating in the middle of the river, two men seemingly engaged in fighting. One would knock over the other, and, taking him sometimes by the hands, and again by the heels, drag him over the ice some distance; then standing him up, would knock him over, repeating the process continually. The af- fair created great excitement, and finally a row boat with four men put off to ascertain the cause of the strange conduct. Reaching the floe, they discovered the men to be the U. S. Mail Carrier and his negro, who had left Paulus Hook the previous evening, but were caught in the floating ice. They had rowed up and down seeking for a passage through to the New York shore, but were unsuccessful. Feeling the ef- fects of the extreme cold, they determined to take to the ice, and by vigorous exercise, escape being frozen to death. The poor negro, succumbing to the intense cold, wished for nothing but to be allowed to sleep. The carrier, knowing that this would prove fatal, adopted the drastic treatment that had fortunately attracted attention, and in doing so, not only saved the negro's life, but probably his own, by indulging in this violent exercise. The negro was found by his rescuers with nose, ears and fingers frozen, and they were obliged to lift him into the boat and carry him to shore.
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At this time the Southern Mail consisted of two bags, carried over to New York by row boat.
In the early days the mail communication of the people of Bergen with the outside world was very limited, and what few letters there were, were brought from the offices at Newark or New York by any one who visited those places, and distributed as occasion offered, being sometimes handed round at the church door on Sunday and sometimes left at the general store until called for. In 1807, General Granger es- tablished an office in a store in lower Jersey City, at the corner of York and Washington Streets, from whence the mail was distributed at first in the old way, or else by carriers, who collected the postage and delivery, the amount charged depending upon the distance of the place from which the letter was sent. Some time afterwards a sub-station was established at the Five Corners, where mail bags from the Jersey City station were left by the stages in passing. The mail for the town of Bergen was called for with con- siderable regularity by the school boys, who left any letters for the neighborhood at the store on Bergen Square.
An interesting story is told in connection with the mail distribution of the day. General Cummings was for many years one of the stage proprietors, and also contractor for carrying the mail. Many irregularities occurring in the delivery of the mails, the then postmas- ter, Gideon Granger, determined to personally investi- gate the cause, and travel over the mail routes in dis- guise. General Cummings, being informed of his inten-
PRIOR'S MILL.
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tion by a friend, gave certain instructions to his negro driver, in case he should have a passenger answering a certain description.
A short time after, as the stage was about starting from Paulus Hook, the driver detected a suspicious- looking personage entering the stage, whereupon, gathering up the reins, he started his horses off at a tremendous pace over the corduroy road, between Newark and Paulus Hook. The occupants were vio- lently jostled about to the great danger of life and limb. Gideon called out to drive slower. "Cawnt do it, massa. I drives the United States Mail," an- swered the driver, as he urged the horses to still greater speed. Granger begged him again and again to slacken his speed, but was met with the unfailing response, " Cawnt do it, massa. I drives the United States Mail." On the arrival of the coach at Newark, it is said, Granger was so bruised that he showed no disposition to continue his investigations, being satis- fied that at least one contract was being faithfully carried out.
Prior's Mill was built during the early colonial days and was located on the Old Mill Creek, heretofore described, near the present crossing of the Junction R. R. with Railroad Avenue. It was what was known as a tide-water mill, and was operated by the force of the outflowing water upon the wheel. A dam was built across the creek, with gates arranged so as to admit the incoming tides, but which closed as soon as the pressure against them ceased. The imprisoned water was then led by a sluice-way against the paddles
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or buckets of the water-wheel, causing it to revolve with sufficient force to turn the mill stones by which the grain was ground.
The bolt as it was called, separating the chaff from the flour, was operated by means of an iron winch, which was turned by the slaves, giving forth first the flour, then the middlings, and lastly the bran. As the mill could be operated only on the ebbing tide, the times for grinding were very irregular, there being as it were two sessions every twenty-four hours, and these varying with the tides. The clanking of the mill wheel and the rumbling of the stones, accompa- nied by the darkies' songs, were calculated at nights, when the mill was dimly lighted with the flickering blaze of a tallow lantern, to send those indescribable thrills along the spine that most of us have at some time experienced.
The prominent places of resort for the sporting element of the day, were the Beacon Race Course and the Thatched Cottage Garden. The former was locat- ed just north of Hoboken Avenue, between Palisade and Summit. Here several noted races were run, and attracted many of the sporting men of New York, as well as those of the surrounding country. But after a short season of activity, like its successor at Gutten- berg, it succumbed to the unhealthful influences of the neighborhood.
The Thatched Cottage Garden, located at Essex Street, in lower Jersey City, was the scene of many athletic games and balloon ascensions. In this con- nection, it may be well to mention an episode that at the time attracted much attention. One Gillie, an
THE THATCHED COTTAGE. Front and rear view.
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aeronaut, was in the habit of making ascensions with a captive balloon, and descending by means of a para- chute. Among those who witnessed this feat was a resident of " Old Bergen," who, in his desire to convey the idea to the minds of a crowd of admiring young- sters, gave what might be called an object lesson. Pro- curing a rope and clothes basket, they wended their way to a large barn, one rainy Saturday, and throwing the rope over a beam near the rafters, fastened one end of it to the basket, in which the would-be aeronaut seated himself, with an umbrella in his possession. Instructing the boys to hoist him up to the beam, and to cut the rope at his word, he soon reached the elevated position. Then raising the umbrella, he gave the word of command ; but alas for his confiding nature, the force of gravitation proved too strong for his frail support, and he descended to the floor with such force, that he was laid up for some time, with fractured limbs. This may have been the origin of the saying, once so much used in this vicinity for cautioning against any act of folly, " Don't be a Gillie."
At Newark and Summit Avenues stood the official hay-scales, which, although not constructed on the lines observed in our delicately balanced modern machines, was nevertheless a decided improvement over the method used in Indian times, before alluded to. A stout crane was suspended in the center, from one end of which depended four heavy chains terminat- ing in rings, which were slipped over the wheel hubs of the hay wagon. From the other end was hung a platform, on which were placed fifty six pound weights, sufficient to balance the load.
Chapter L.
CHANGES.
BUT time has wrought many changes, not only in manners and customs, but in the whole topography of the country. Hills that were long sacred to the sports of childhood, are now levelled, and the many ponds over whose glassy surface steel-shod feet glided for many years, have been filled up so that not a trace remains. Tuers Pond, located along the line of Water Avenue, was in the winter, by a little judicious man- agement, made to overflow the surrounding fields, producing a magnificent expanse for skating.
By a comparison with present conditions some idea may be formed of the changes that have occurred along the whole shore line, of the old township of Ber- gen. From Weehawken on the north to Constable Hook on the south, not only have the coves and bays that formerly indented the coast been filled and utilized for manufacturing and commercial purposes ; but they have been encroached on to such an extent that thou- sands of acres have been added to the growth of the lowlands, which through natural causes accumulated at the base of the rocky heights, against whose walls, through passing years, the waters of the Bay dashed, as driven by the strong east wind, or gently murmured, as the ripples broke upon the shore.
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The spots from whence the Indian launched his canoe, and the shores first trodden by the feet of the early traders, are now hidden forever beneath the accumulation of filling that has placed them thousands of feet inland. At Communipaw, the only spot where the shore has been left on its original line until the present, operations have been initiated which will in a short time completely obliterate the original ferry landing place of colonial days. Here almost a mile to the eastward may be seen the outward bulkhead line that marks the limit to territorial expansion.
Just north of the Pennsylvania Railroad cut, east of Baldwin Avenue, one of the giant monarchs of the forest was standing as late as 1860. This point was resorted to by many lovers of nature, on account of the unsurpassed view presented from that spot. Being of unusual prominence, it commanded an exceptional view of the whole Bay, with its surroundings. On the one hand, could be seen the distant gateway to the ocean, guarded by the wooded heights of Long and Staten Islands, while Governors, Bedloes, and Ellis Islands, like emeralds in a silver setting, added to the beauty of the scene. Around this spot, and in the neighborhood of the old tree, Lafayette with his command encamped on August 24, 1780, and although in full view of the enemy, conducted from thence suc- cessful raids through Bergen and Bergen Neck. To the northward, Castle Point jutted out, standing like a sentinel watching the approach to the Highlands.
Feb. 24, 1820, an act was passed by the state legisla- ture which gave freedom to every child born of slave
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parents subsequent to July 4, 1804, males at twenty- five, and females at twenty-one years of age. The inhabitants of " Old Bergen," however, had been for some years gradually freeing the slaves left to them un- der the old conditions ; on the death of an old resident, it was generally found that he provided in his will for the manumission and at least partial support of his dusky retainers. But notwithstanding this fact, many of the old house-servants refused to avail themselves of the privilege, and continued as voluntary dependants until their death. Provision was made, however, for their descendants, and through the liberality of their old employers quite a settlement was formed along the Old Mill Road between Academy and Montgomery Streets. Many of these were for a time distinguished by the prefix of the family name of their old owners before their own, and they emphasized their approval of this custom by fully expecting, and in some cases demanding, support, when through their natural improvidence they had failed to make provision for " a rainy day." Some time in the Fifties a church was erected for their exclusive use on the line of the Old Mill Road south of Academy Street, and for many years was the scene of energetic and enthusiastic services.
A little farther south, or between what is now Mer- cer Street and Fairmount Avenue, east of Summit, and extending over the brow of the hill to the edge of the marsh below ( now Cornelison Avenue ) was a dense woods of pine and cedar, in the recesses of which, during the existence of slavery, runaways
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were accustomed to hide. They were here provided with food by their fellows; or if, by reason of extra watchfulness on the part of their masters, this source of supply was cut off, they issued forth in the darkness of the night to procure food or other plunder. When these depredations became too frequent or especially flagrant, a regular hunt was organized, and the out- laws captured and subjected to punishment, which was sometimes very severe.
In these woods, near where the City Hospital now stands, was a spot made sacred to the negroes as the shrine about which to gather on "Bobilation Day," the anniversary of the abolition of slavery throughout the state. Near this, on the spot now en- closed between Church and Montgomery Streets and east of Summit Avenue, was Newkirk's pond, a resort of the more exclusive, which being surrounded by a cedar grove, was sheltered from the wintry blasts. The overflow from these ponds passed down through the low ground on the line of Monticello Avenue, to about where it is now intersected by Gardner; thence diagonally across Crescent Avenue and Park Street, to a point near the Junction, fell over a ledge of rocks called the " offall," crossed Communipaw Avenue, and emptied its waters in a creek on the meadows back of Communipaw, and afterwards into the Morris Canal.
On the rocks at the head of Academy Street, near the site of the old fort, was a favorite picnic ground ; and although the way over the rocks was steep and precipitous, daring riders forced their horses over a
THE OLD TAVERN.
The Old Tavern near the Church also alluded to on page 178, still standing on corner of Bergen and Glenwood Avenues, built in part of the material of the old Stuyvesant Tavern of Colonial days which stood in the same spot. In the rear wall may be seen the old corner stone with the letters P. S. cut in.
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path leading into Railroad Avenue. But there is a consecrated spot on Bergen Avenue south of the Square, to which our memories often turn ; for old " Aunt Rachel's" ranch afforded club privileges equal to the best equipped of the present day, and within its friendly shelter plans were laid and plots concocted, without any danger of interference by the outside world.
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