USA > New York > Erie County > Our County and Its People: A Descriptive Work on Erie County, New York (Volume 1) > Part 2
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Division of Niagara County and Creation of Erie County-Provisions of the Legislative Act-New Act of Incorporation of Buffalo Village-Boundaries of the Village-Bright Anticipations in Erie County-Further Harbor Im- provements at Buffalo and Black Rock-A Memorable Meeting in Buffalo- Continued Rivalry between Black Rock and Buffalo-Subscriptions for a Canal between these Villages-Final Settlement of the Terminus of the Erie Canal-Waning Importance of Black Rock-Dam in Tonawanda Creek -Inception of Tonawanda Village-Final Work on the Erie Canal-Open- ing of the Great Waterway-Celebration of the Event in Erie County-New System of Collecting Land Payments by the Holland Company-Joseph Ellicott's Resignation as Agent-New State Constitution-General Progress in the Towns of the County-La Fayette's Visit to Buffalo-Mordecai M. Noah's Operations on Grand Island-Murder of John Love-Comparative Descriptions of Buffalo in 1820 and 1825-Maps and Views. 280-293
CHAPTER XX. 1825-1832.
Early Success of the Erie Canal-Its Influence on Erie County-Buffalo Charter Amendments-The Morgan Affair-Anti-Masonry in Erie County Politics- Another Newspaper-Rising Opposition to the Holland Land Company -- The Jubilee Water Works Company-The Buffalo Hydraulic Association- First Insurance Companies-The County Alms House-Preparations for City Incorporation-Conditions of the County at Large-Advancement in Outer Towns-Arrival of the First German Immigrants-Progress at Tona. wanda-Preparation of City Charter-Passage of the Act-Important Pro- visions of the Charter-Ward Boundaries-Reorganization of Buffalo Fire Department-The First City Directory-A Description of the Young City-
List of Buyers of Lots in New Amsterdam.
293-312
CHAPTER XXI. 1832-1840.
An Unwelcome Visitor-The Asiatic Cholera-Measures to Combat the Pes tilence-Cases and Deaths-Recovery from Effects of the Scourge-Increas- ing Commercial Operations-The First Railroad in Erie County-Beginning of a Speculative Era-Plenty of Money-Extensive Real Estate Sales- Prices Greatly Inflated-Benjamin Rathbun and his Ruin-A Financial Crash-Slow Recovery from Its Effects-Presidential Election-Comparative Pictures of Buffalo-The First Steam Railroad-Founding of the Young Men's Association-Its Later History-Buffalo Library-Plan to Build Up
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Black Rock-Harbor Maps-The Patriot War-Farther Opposition to the Holland Land Company-Promotion of New Towns 318-885
CHAPTER XXII. TOWN AND VILLAGE IMPROVEMENT.
Features of Town and Village Growth-Condition of the County at the Date of Its Formation-Effects of the Land Sale to the Ogden Company-Develop- ment in Aurora between 1821 and 1840-Growth in Holland and Newstead -Beginning of the Village of Akron-Alden and West Seneca -- Advance- ment in Hamburg and East Hamburg-Ths Celebrated Hamburg Cheese- Growth and Advancement in the Various Other Towns and Villages ... .836-855
CHAPTER XXIII. 1840 TO THE CIVIL WAR.
Slow Increase in Population as a Consequence of the Financial Crisis-Receipts of Grain-Railroad Communication Eastward-Completion of the Ogden Purchase-Bank of Attica Removed to Buffalo-Beginning and Development of the Elevator System- The First Propeller-Era of Prosperity-Buffalo Board of Trade-Disastrous Gale-University of Buffalo-Erie County Workhouse-Plank Roads-Growth of Roman Catholic Churches-First Gaslight Company-Buffalo City Water Works Company-Buffalo Police De- partment-Census of 1850-General Prosperity Throughout the County- The German Element-The Ebenezer Society-Changes in Towns-Rail- roads-Lumber and Coal Trade-Shipbuilding-Banks-Increase in Area of Buffalo-Financial Crisis of 1857 356-385
CHAPTER XXIV. THE WAR PERIOD-1860 TO 1870.
The Election of 1860-Bombardment of Fort Sumter-First and Second Calls for Troops-First War Meeting-The 21st Regiment-The 44th Regiment-The 10th Cavalry-The 11th Cavalry-The 12th Cavalry-The 14th Cavalry- The 16th Cavalry-The 24th Cavalry-Wiedrich's Battery-The 27th Light Battery-The $3d Light Battery-The 2d Mounted Rifles-Committee on the Defense of the Union-The 49th Regiment-The 100th Regiment-The 116th Regiment-Draft and Bounties-The 155th Regiment-The 164th Regiment-Bounties-Draft of 1864-Issue of Bonds-Great Central Fair- Rumored Rebel Invasion from Canada-Lincoln's Re-election-The 187th Regiment-Bounties-Draft of 1865-Summary of Enlistments-Close of the War-First Street Railway-Change in Basis of Representation in Board of Supervisors-The Buffalo Historical Society-The Buffalo Fine Arts Academy-Seeming Prosperity After the War-Railroad Building-Intro- duction of Manufacturing Interests-Wholesale Mercantile Trade-Banks- The Grosvenor Library-The Young Men's Christian Association-Burning of the American Hotel-The Fenian Episode-Reorganization of the Buf- falo Police Department-Buffalo Builders' Exchange-Political. 385-414
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CHAPTER XXV. MODERN HISTORY-1870-1897.
The Financial Panic of 1873-Statistics of Lake Commerce-Changes in City Charter-The City and County Building-The Park System-Railroad Ex- tension-Increase in Population-Growth of Transportation Facilities-The Coal Interest-Railroads-Manufactures-Harbor Improvements-Real Es- tate and Building-Speculation in Real Estate-The Real Estate Exchange -The German Element-The Poles-The Hebrews-The Irish and Italians -Railroad Strikes-Charter Amendments-The New Charter of 1891 -- De- partments of City Government-Railroad Grade Crossings-Natural Gas- Street Paving-Banking-The G. A. R. Encampment-G. A. R. Posts -- Statistical Tables 415-451
CHAPTER XXVI. POLITICAL CHANGES AND CIVIL LIST.
Political Parties-Officers in the National Government: President-Vice-Presi- dent-Postmaster-General-Secretary of War-Ministers to Foreign Coun- tries-Superintendent of the Government Printing Office-Members of Congress-Generals in the Regular Army. State Officers: Governor-Lieu- tenant-Governors-Secretary of State-Attorneys-General-Comptrollers- State Treasurers-Canal Commissioners -- Inspector of State Prisons-Super- intendents of Public Instruction-Regents of the University-Canal Apprais- ers-Council of Appointment-State Senators-Assemblymen. County Offi- cers: County Treasurers. Politics before and Including 1815-Politics and Elections from 1816 to 1896. Principal Village and City Officials of Buf- falo: Village Trustees and Other Officers -Mayors-City Clerks -- City Treasurers-Surveyors and Engineers-City Attorneys-Street Commis- sioners - City Physicians-Comptrollers-Aldermen - Common Council- Boards of Aldermen and Councilmen 452-488
CHAPTER XXVII.
GAZETTEER OF TOWNS. 488-609
CHAPTER XXVIII. THE GERMANS OF ERIE COUNTY.
Extent of German Population-Characteristics of the Germans-Cause of Emi- gration-Statistics of Immigration-The First Immigrants -- German Set- tlers Outside of Buffalo-The German Press-Amalgamation of Different German Elements-German Religious Organizations-German Musical So- cieties-Schools and Educational Institutions-The German Young Men's Association-Benevolent Institutions 610-628
CHAPTER XXIX.
EDUCATION IN ERIE COUNTY .628-664
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CHAPTER XXX.
JUDICIARY AND BAR OF ERIE COUNTY. 665-710
CHAPTER XXXI. A CENTURY OF MEDICAL HISTORY IN THE COUNTY OF ERIE. 1800-1900.
Early History-Medical Societies-Medical Colleges-Hospitals-Medical Jour- nals -- Medical Officers of the Civil War-Women Physicians-History of Homeopathy-Individual Members of the Profession 711-812
CHAPTER XXXII.
THE PRESS OF ERIE COUNTY
812-833
CHAPTER XXXIII.
CHARITABLE AND BENEVOLENT ORGANIZATIONS.
Buffalo the First to Inaugurate a System of Charity Which Has Since Become Popular-Conditions Prior to the War of the Rebellion-The Buffalo Or- phan Asylum-List of Presidents-Hospital of the Sisters of Charity- Roman Catholic Orphan Asylum-Other Catholic Institutions-The Charity Foundation-Organizations Created Since the War-Women's Christian Association-Children's Aid Society-The Charity Organization Society- The First One in the County-Its Purposes and Its Success .833-854
INDEX 855-906
ILLUSTRATIONS.
Map of Central and Western New York in 1809 facing 8
Indian Relics facing 24
Iron Tomahawk from East Aurora. Head-comb of bone or shell, from grave at Ganagura, principal village of the Senecas, near present village of Victor.
Indian Relics facing 26
Arrow heads, drills and scrapers from Buffalo.
Indian Relics facing 34
Spear head from La Salle, Limestone pipe bowl from Fort Erie, Stone gouge, Grand Island, Hammer stone fi.ted to right hand of woman or child, Fort Erie.
Panther pipe or totem of impure gypsum, Fort Erie, Grooved stone for war club, Fort Porter, near Buffalo.
Hatchet or skinning stone, East Buffalo, Hatchet with curved edge, Cor nelius Creek, Buffalo.
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Fort Niagara in 1759 facing 92
Joseph Ellicott-portrait. facing 124
Map of the Village of New Amsterdam in 1804. facing 140
Samuel F. Pratt-portrait . between 148-149
Pascal P. Pratt-portrait . between 148-149
Map of Buffalo Village Inner Lots between 158-159
Map of Buffalo Village Outer Lots between 158-159
View of Lake Erie and the Bay from Buffalo in 1816 facing 256
Aaron Rumsey-portrait facing 240
Rt. Rev. William Heathcote De Lancey, D. D., LL. D., D.C. L.,-portrait .. facing 262 Rt. Rev. A. Cleveland Coxe-portrait facing 263
Rt. Rev. William D. Walker, D. D., LL.D., D. D. L.,-portrait facing 264
Terrace, Market and Liberty Pole, Buffalo. facing 266
View of Buffalo Harbor in 1825, facing 282
Map of Buffalo in 1825, facing 286
View of Buffalo Harbor-from Colden's Memoir, 1826. between 290-291
Buffalo Village from the Lighthouse-from Colden's Memoir, 1826 .. between 290-291 Buffalo as seen from the Top of the Old Buffalo Bank in 1829, facing 296
Buffalo as seen from the Lake in 1829,
facing 296
Old First Presbyterian Church facing 302
E. C. Sprague-portrait. facing 306
Eagle Tavern and Surroundings in 1830 facing 322
American House, on the Site of the American Block facing 322
Map of the Proposed Harbor Improvements in 1836 facing 329
Map of Buffalo in 1847 facing 362
Rt. Rev. John Timon, D. D.,-portrait facing 367
Rt. Rev. Stephen Vincent Ryan-portrait
facing 368
George W. Tifft-portrait . facing 382
Millard Fillmore-portrait facing 469
Grover Cleveland-portrait. facing 472
Old Court House and Jail facing 665
James Platt White, M. D .- portrait. 725
Austin Flint, M. D .- portrait 728
Frank Hastings Hamilton, M. D .- portrait 731
Sanford B. Hunt, M. D .- portrait 735
Thomas F. Rochester, M. D .- portrait 736
746
First Buffalo Medical College
768
Second Buffalo Medical College 769
776
Gen. Albert J. Myer-portrait.
Hospital of the Sisters of Charity
facing 769
R. W. Haskins-portrait facing 815
James D. Warren-portrait. facing 816
James N. Matthews-portrait facing 822
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Judson Boardman Andrews, M. D .- portrait
OUR COUNTY AND ITS PEOPLE.
CHAPTER I.
DESCRIPTIVE OF THE SUBJECT.
The Original Divisions of New York State-Genealogy of Erie County-Situa- tion and Boundaries of the County-Its Topography and Geology-Lakes and Streams-A Part of the Domain of the Senecas-Cession of Indian Lands-Under British Dominion-As a Part of the Holland Purchase-Its Survey.
The original ten counties of what is now the State of New York were created November 1, 1683, and named Albany, Dutchess, Kings, New York, Orange, Queens, Richmond, Suffolk, Ulster, and West- chester. On the 12th of March, 1772, Montgomery county, taken from Albany county, was erected under the name of "Tryon " (changed to Montgomery in 1784 in honor of the American hero who fell at Que- bec), and included nearly the whole of the central and western parts of the State. From Montgomery county on January 27, 1789, was erected Ontario county, its territory embracing most of the western part of the State. The erection of Genesee county from Ontario took place on March 30, 1802; it included all that part of the State lying west of the Genesee River and a line extending due south from the point of junc- tion of the Genesee and Canaseraga Creek to the south line of the State. From Genesee county was erected on March 11, 1808, Niagara county, including what is now Erie county. During the next thirteen years Erie county territory constituted a part of Niagara county and the history of the two is, therefore, intimately connected until the erec- tion of Erie county on April 2, 1821.
Erie county lies on the western boundary of this State and is bound- ed on the north by the center of Tonawanda Creek and by the center of the east branch of Niagara River (between Grand Island and Ton-
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OUR COUNTY AND ITS PEOPLE.
awanda) from the mouth of the Tonawanda to the junction with the west branch; on the west by the line between the United States and Canada from the junction up along the center of the west branch of the river and of the whole river to Lake Erie, and thence southwest- erly along the middle of the lake to a point where the international boundary makes a right angle with a line to the mouth of Cattarau- gus Creek; on the south by a line from such point of intersection to the mouth of the Cattaraugus, and thence up along the center of that creek to the crossing of the line between the fourth and fifth ranges of the Holland Company's survey; and on the east by the line between those ranges, from Cattaraugus Creek to Tonawanda Creek, except that for six miles opposite the town of Marilla the county line is a mile and a quarter west of the range line. This range line is twenty- three miles east of the center of Niagara River at the foot of Lake Erie, and thirty-four and a half miles east of the mouth of Cattarau- gus Creek. The extreme length of the county north and south is forty-three and a half miles, and its greatest width, including the lake portion, is about thirty-nine miles. The land area of the county is 1,071 square miles, and the Lake Erie area about 160 square miles.
When the first Europeans visited the western continent they found very large areas in what is now New England, the States of New York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Ohio, Kentucky, Tennessee, etc., and Upper Canada consisting of what may be termed open prairies. These open tracts were produced by periodical burnings by the natives, for the early attributed purpose of keeping back excessive growth of trees, shrubs, vines and other rank vegetation, which would have obstructed rapid passage through it and cut off vision. Later observation assigned a more probable reason for these burnings, in the consequent destruc- tion of forest growth and the annual upspringing of tender and nu- tritious grasses, which enticed the deer, elk, moose, buffalo and other large game upon which the Indians largely subsisted. What were popularly called "oak openings " by our pioneers were doubtless once open prairies like those of the far Western States, which originated in the manner described; and what have been called "plains" in the local vicinity have an important relation to this part of the subject. These plains have been adequately described by intelligent early trav- elers. Theodore Dwight, who visited Buffalo Creek in 1803, wrote as follows on the subject :
From the appellation of plains, usually given to these tracts, you will naturally
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think as I did, that they are level grounds. This, however, is a mistake. They are generally elevated, and everywhere present a surface rolling easily, without any sudden declivity except on the borders of streams or swamps. The variations of the surface are, however, continual, and some of the eminences rise considerably above the common level. These grounds are also termed openings, as being in a great degree destitute of forests. The vegetation with which they are covered con- sists of grass, weeds and shrubs, of various kinds.
This traveler then proceeds to describe the objects of the annual burnings by the Indians and their effects upon the appearance of the face of the country. So, also, an English traveler named Weld al- ludes to the same subject in connection with his account of a journey made from the Indian settlement on Buffalo Creek to the Genesee River in 1796:
We found the country as we passed along, interspersed with open plains of great magnitude. Some of them, I should suppose, not less than fifteen or twenty miles in circumference. The trees on the borders of these having ample room to spread, were luxuriant beyond description. . . . These plains are covered with long coarse grass, which at a future day will probably afford feeding to numerous herds of cattle; at present they are totally unfrequented.
Father La Moine, the Jesuit who visited the Onondagas in 1634, wrote of traveling "through vast prairies," when he saw "in divers quarters immense herds of wild bulls and cows, their horns resem- bling in some respects the antlers of a stag." '
Over those vast prairies and through the interminable forests roamed multitudes of animals of a herbaceous character, while the inter- vening mountain regions, which were thickly timbered, sheltered other multitudes of carniverous beasts, which, when pressed by hunger, preyed upon their more peaceful kind on the prairies. Even down to within a century of the present, deer, wolves, bears and panthers were numerous around the southern shores of Lake Erie.
The topographical features of Erie county are diversified and inter- esting. In general terms the surface of the county is level in the north- ern part, rolling in the central, and hilly in the southern part. A large area along Tonawanda Creek on the northern border is almost perfectly flat and much of it is marshy. This low tract is bounded on the south by a limestone ledge or terrace, from twenty to sixty feet in height, extending from Black Rock eastward through the southern part of the
1 These animals have been supposed by many writers to be buffalo, which are believed to have ranged far eastward in early years, giving authority for the now generally accepted fact that the name of Buffalo Creek was derived from that animal.
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OUR COUNTY AND ITS PEOPLE.
towns of Amherst, Clarence and Newstead. A nearly level region ex- tending south from the summit of this ridge includes the site of Buffalo city and the towns of Cheektowaga, Lancaster and Alden, and termi - nates in the rolling section embracing the entire central part of the county. Various ridges in the central and southern parts, having a gene 'al north and south direction, rise gradually toward the south un- til their summits attain an elevation of 200 to 300 feet above the inter- vening valleys, 900 to 1,000 feet above the lake surface, and 1,400 to 1,500 feet above tide. Certain railroad surveys have established the following heights of different localities: South Wales, 507 feet above Lake Erie; Holland village, 699 feet above the lake; Sardinia summit, 891 feet above the lake, and Concord 920 feet above the lake. The highlands are divided into several distinct ridges by the valleys of Caz- enove and Eighteen-mile Creeks. The slopes of the hills are generally long and gradual, with occasional steep banks bordering the streams. The land along the lake shore in the north part is low and level, but farther south it rises in steep banks to a height of from twenty to fifty feet.
The strata of the rock formation in Erie county incline upward toward the north. The lowest rocks are those of the Onondaga salt group, which are succeeded by the hydraulic, Onondaga and cornif- erous limestones. These crop out in the ledge before described. Over- lapping these and in the central part of the county are the Marcellus and the Hamilton shales, while the summits of the southern hills are covered by the rocks of the Portage group. The rocks of the salt group occupy nearly all of the low land below the limestone terrace, and are covered so deep with drift and alluvium that they have only slight in-
fluence on the surface and cannot be profitably quarried. Hydraulic limestone, however, crops out in excellent quality along the northern base of the limestone terrace and has been extensively quarried for lime and building purposes. The shales of the central and southern parts of the county are generally covered with a thick deposit of drift and are visible only along the margins of streams.
The soil in the northern part of the county is generally a stiff clayey loam, interspersed with beds of marl and muck; farther south it is a clay and gravelly loam resting upon limestone. The southern hills are covered with drift of clay and gravel. In the valleys the soil is generally gravelly loam and alluvium and very productive. In early years the principal agricultural pursuits were grain and stock raising, which
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are still followed to a considerable extent; but in more recent years, especially in the central and southern parts, dairying has become a very important industry.
Tonawanda1 Creek, forming the northern boundary of the county, crosses the boundary at the northwestern corner of the county, and with its length in Genesee county flows about sixty miles from its source to Niagara River. Into it flow Murder Creek about four miles from the Genesee county line; Ransom Creek, a stream about fifteen miles long, some twelve miles farther down, and just above its mouth the Tonawanda is joined by Ellicott, or Eleven-mile Creek, a stream of twenty-five miles in length. These tributaries of Tonawanda Creek all have their source south of the limestone ledge, Murder Creek breaking through it at Akron village, Ransom Creek at Clarence Hollow, and Ellicott Creek at Williamsville. Scajaquada Creek empties into the Niagara River two miles from Lake Erie, after having flowed a course of about fifteen miles in a westerly direction.
Buffalo" Creek is the principal stream of the county and is composed of three branches. The main one, called the Big Buffalo, rises in Wy- oming county, crosses into Erie county and flows northwestward about fifteen miles and then westward about an equal distance to its mouth, which is part of the harbor of Buffalo. Its principal tributaries are Cayuga Creek, which it receives from the north about six miles from the lake, and Cazenove Creek from the south, which rises in the ex- treme southeast corner of the county and flows thirty miles northwest.
Other principal streams of the county are Eighteen-mile Creek, which has its source near the south boundary of the county, flows northwesterly twelve miles and west five miles, where it receives the south branch, a stream twelve miles long; the whole then flows five miles westerly and empties into the lake about eighteen miles from the mouth of the Buffalo. Big Sister Creek, which has a length of about fifteen miles, empties into the lake eight miles above the mouth of Eighteen-mile Creek. Five miles south of the mouth of the Buffalo Smoke's Creek enters the lake after flowing a distance of twelve miles, and a few miles farther up is the mouth of Rush Creek, which is a still smaller stream. Cattaraugus Creek, which forms the south boundary
1 In the Seneca language, Ta-no-wan-deh, meaning "at the rapids or ripples," or perhaps more literally, "at his rapids."-French's State Gazetteer, p. 279.
2 On the Ellicott map of 1804 this stream is called Tos-e-o-way Creek. An ancient Indian treatv calls it Te-ho-se-ro-ron.
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OUR COUNTY AND ITS PEOPLE.
of the county for a distance of thirty miles, rises ten miles east of the county line and flows westerly to the lake, with a large intervening southerly bend; its tributaries in Erie county are small, the largest be- ing Clear Creek which it receives eight miles from its mouth. There are, of course, innumerable small streams which help to drain the various parts of the county.
The territory of Erie county and our western frontier has been sub- jected to less changes in title and subdivision than many other local- ities in this State. Erie county territory originally constituted a part of the domain of the Iroquois Indians; its immediate possessors and occupants were the Senecas, who, after having conquered the Eries and Kahquahs, roamed over Western New York, established their villages, fought their widely-distributed enemies and maintained their fame as the most powerful of the Five Nations. For nearly half a century after the adventurous La Salle built his little vessel in Niagara River, this region was under nominal control of the French, as far as they were able to exert it against the native occupants. From them it passed to the English as one of the consequences of the prolonged wars described in succeeding chapters. The treaty of Ryswick (1697) did not definitely determine the sovereignty of Western New York; both French and English claimed it, while neither nation had as yet a more valid claim to it than the Indians. In the later war (1702) the French gained in ascendency and influence with the Iroquois, especially the Senecas, although the Indians professed neutrality. The French re- built Fort Niagara about 1725, pushed their fur trade with unremitting vigor, and by every possible wile sought to, and did, acquire consider- able respect and confidence from the natives, and for thirty years longer this region was largely under their control. But it seems to have been a part of the beneficent plan of the Almighty that this country should not pass under French dominion, and should be re- served for the descendants of the Pilgrims and the English immigrants who came after them; for, after two other bloody wars (1744-48, and 1756-59) the final and overwhelming defeat of the French armies and their native allies was accomplished. Still further conflict ensued be- tween the Indians and the victors over the French before the English were in a secure position wherein they could dictate the future of this region. Strife and bloodshed finally ceased in 1764. In April of that year Sir William Johnson, at Johnson Hall (now Johnstown, N. Y.), concluded a peace treaty with eight Seneca chiefs. Among the provis-
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