USA > New York > The documentary history of the state of New York, Vol. III pt 2 > Part 34
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Joseph Willets
The above are entered in Suffolk County's Book of Records Vol: B: Foly 31. 36.
p W. NICOLL Junr Clk.
4222229
Jacob Cock
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XVI. REV. GIDEON HAWLEY'S JOURNEY
TO
hquaga,
(BROOME CO.)
1753.
OLD OQUAGO, now Windsor, is distinguished as having been the ancient dwelling place of a tribe of Indians, evidently, too, for a long series of years. It is situated upon the Susquehanna river, near the north east angle of the Great Bend, fourteen miles from the village of Binghamton. It appears to have been a half way resting place for the Six nations, as they passed South to Wyoming or its neighbourhood; or for the tribes of the Wyoming valley as they passed north. Their path over the Oquago mountain, and also over a mountain this side, nearer the village, was worn very deep, and is still plainly visible. . It (Oquago) is a beautiful vale, from three to four miles in length, and from a mile to a mile and a half in width on both sides of the river; with an easy and nearly regular slope to the top of the hills that run parallel with the stream. Wilkinson's Annals of Binghamton.
A LETTER FROM REV. GIDEON HAWLEY
OF MARSHPEE containing a Narrative of his Journey to ONONOGIIGWAGE in 1753.
[]. Mass, Coll. IV.]
July 31, 1794.
IT is forty years, this day, since I was ordained a Missionary to the Indians, in the Old South meeting house, when the Rev. Dr. Sewall preached on the occasion, and the Rev. Mr. Prince gave the charge.
I had been in the service from Feb. 5. O. S. 1752, and by an ecclesiastical council convened for that purpose, was now solemnly set apart to the work of an evangelist among the western Indians The Rev. Mr. Foxcroft and Dr. Chauncy assisted upon the occasion, and Mr. Appleton of Cambridge, with many delegates from their respective Churches.
I entered upon this arduous business at Stockbridge under the patronage of the Rev. Mr. Edwards. Was instructor of a few families of Iroquois, who came down from their country for the sake of christian knowledge and the schooling of their children.
These families consisted of Mohawks, Oneidas, and Tuscaroras, from Kanajoharry, and Onohoghgwage. I was their school-master, and preached to them on the Lord's-day. Mr. Edwards visited my school, catechised my scholars, and frequently delivered a discourse to their parents. To Indians he was a very plain and practical preacher : upon no occasion did he display any meta- physical knowledge in the pulpit. ITis sentences were concise, and full of meaning ; and his delivery grave and natural. In the winter, Indians are at home, and my school was well attended: But many, who wintered at Stockbridge, in the Spring and Summer went off, and were about Schoharry, beyond Albany. In the month September, I therefore made an excursion into the Mohawk country, I had never been at Albany, nor even as far as Kinderhook, till now; and was ignorant of the way, which led through a wilderness.
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REV. GIDEON HAWLEY'S JOURNEY
I therefore wanted a guide, and took with me a young Canada Indian, who had attended my school. He had been bred a Roman Catholick ; could repeat the Lord's-prayer in Latin, and Ave Maria ; could read and write. He furnished me with an alphabet for his language, which was of use to me. He was of the Cagnawauga tribe.
He was my company, and only he. Two years afterwards, some of the Canada Indians came, and not improbably this fellow might be of the party, who fell upon a family at Stock- bridge, on the Lord's-day, and murdered and captured several of its inhabitants. But it was now peace, and I had no appre- hensions when travelling alone with him, a whole day, through a solitary wilderness.
Near night we arrived at the out houses in Kinderhook.
[At this point Mr Hawley was abandoned by his guide, and obliged to proceed alone.]
I knew not the way to Albany ; and the path I had taken was obseure, and unfrequented by white people. I came to an Indian village, took some directions, but lost my way. I wandered in blind paths till I found a few white inhabitants in huts, who had lately made Settlements ; but being ignorant of the English language could give me but poor information. To be short, I finally got into the great road, I knew not how, but not until I had been out in a most terrible storm of thunder and lightening. Thunder tempests are very frequent in the interior parts of the country ; and I have often met with them since in the wilderness, and sometimes when alone. It cleared off, and I travelled ; and all at once, through an opening, appeared to view the city of Albany; and I soon discovered a fleet of vessels by its side, on the adjacent river. Great was my satisfaction. I came down and crossed the ferry ; went into the city, and passed it ; came to the houses between Albany and Schenectady, and lodged. These were only two honses, kept for the entertainment of passengers. They were alone, but did not harmonize. Three houses will agree ; but two in a wilderness will be considered as rivals ; and their interests will clash. Such is human nature, that power and in- terests must be balanced by a third person or interest.
Between Albany and Skencctady is barren land; but it is
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TO BROOME COUNTY.
strange that only two houses had been at that time erected on a road so much frequented, and for so many years together.
Soon after I left these houses, the road parts. That to the right, leads to Skenectady; and on the other, a road to Scho- harry*, where I arrived in the afternoon; and soon found the Indians, and particularly Jonah, whose Indian name is Thanhanagwanageas, which is long, but of no extraordinary meaning. This was a very christian-like Indian, and his wife a good woman, who soon got me some refreshment. His mother was a very old person, and of French extract, and full blooded, being captured from Canada when very young. Jonah, there- fore, was half blood. I never saw him the worse for strong drink. He was a man of prayer. I had much acquaintance with him after this, as I had considerable the winter passed, when he was at Stockbridge with his family. His wife was of the Tuscarora tribe, Jonah and some other families were about coming again to Stockbridge, there to winter. Some others, whom I saw, were going to Onohoghgwage, where they belonged. I left Jonah, and went further down, about six miles, and found, at the Mohawk village, Sharrack, Peter, and others, who the summer passed had been gathering, with their wives and children, genseng root for the European market; it having the last year answered for the exporter, beyond all expectation. But this year, as the event proved, many adventurers or specu- lators in it were nearly ruined; but the Indians employed in gathering it, got considerable by it, having collected it in great quantities. The Indian name for this root is, Kalondaggough. I lodged in the vicinity of these Indians, and visited them in the morning; gave their children a few trifles that were acceptable, invited them to Stockbridge, and set out upon my return, and came to the two houses between Albany and Skenectady, where I again lodged.
In regard to Schoharry, it is fine land, and settled by Palatines, brought over, at the expense of the nation, in Queen Anne's reign. It is watered by a stream, which tends to the southward, not far from the source of Deleware, which takes an opposite
. Hunter's field, after Governor Hunter.
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REV. GIDEON HAWLEY'S JOURNEY
direction. Here are three decent meeting-houses, and two domines: The one a Calvinian; and the other, a Lutheran. The language of this people is German or High Dutch, and they are husbandmen. The Albanians and people of Skenectady were Hollanders, and employed in trade; and very few were farmers. For the sake of the Indian trade, which is very lucrative, they have explored the great lakes, and penetrated into the bowels of the wilderness. The Indians from Canada, with their skins and furs, came to Albany in time of peace. I have seen numbers of them there at a time.
There was a missionary to the Mohawks from the society in London; but he resided, as he was considered as chaplain to the fort, in Albany; very little of his time with his Indians; and therefore could do them less good than a constant resident among them. I was solicited once by a clergyman of that city, to tarry a while in town, saying, "in case I went and baptized the children, I might return and spend the season agreeably at Albany." The Rev. Mr. Barclay, who was now a missionary in the city of New-York, it was said, had been a faithful and zealous instructer of the Indians, but his situation, as I was informed, was made uncomfortable by his neighbours; and his support being scanty, he left them and Mr. Oglevie was his successor, and now in office. This gentleman had many amiable qualities; but he finally removed to New-York, and succeeded Dr. Barclay also at that place. * * *
In the year 1748, this Board had sent upon the same mission Mr. Elihu Spencer,* who could not surmount the obstacles he met with. But these Indians having, sundry of them, particu- larly Jonah, Sharrack, and some others, by coming to Stockbridge manifested a thirst for christian knowledge, the commissioners were encouraged to make another attempt to carry the gospel to them : they did all they could to encourage it. Money was not wanting in their treasury ; and the company in London were able to answer their bills, when more was called for, and were ready to do it.
. Rev. Dr. Spencer finally settled at Elizabeth-town in New Jersey, as preil- dent Dickinson's successor.
ยท
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TO BROOME COUNTY.
It was agreed that Deacon Woodbridge* being a man long acquainted with the business, and a gentleman of abilities, should accompany me into their country, and introduce me to the Indians, with whose manners and language I had gained some acquaintance and had been acceptable in my school, &c. It was also agreed that Mrs. Ashley should be our interpreter; and that Benjamin Ashley, her husband, should be employed, and have a salary. This could not be avoided, if we had his wife ; but he was a fanatick, and on that account unfit to be employed in the mission. His wife was a very good sort of woman, and an extraordinary interpret- er in the Iroquois language. She was captured at Deerfield, when that town was destroyed, in 1703, and carried to Cagna- wauga, when she was about three years old. Her two brothers, Martin and Joseph Kellogg, well known in their day, were both older than their sister, and were taken at the same time. The two boys got away before the sister, who resided in Canada among the Cagnawaugas until she was a maiden grown. Her brothers, however, lived there long enough to be good inter- preters, particularly Joseph Kellogg, esq. who was the best in his day, that New England had, and was employed upon every occasion. For many years he was at Fort Dummer, on Connect- icut river, near Number Four : was at the Albany treaty in the year 1754, which was attended by a greater number of respecta- blo personages from the several provinces and colonies than had met on any similar occasion. And in the year 1756, being persuaded by General Shirley to accompany him in his way to Oswego, as an interpreter, which he undertook with a broken state of health, he sickened and died ; and was buried at Skencctady.
Martin, well known by the name of Captain Kellogg, was a very remarkable man for his courage and bodily strength. He was several times captured and carried to Canada. Many stories were related of his feats and exploits in early life. He was employed by Mr. Sergeant in Mr. Hollis's school, and his labours
. I may not have another opportunity to observe concerning this gentleman, that he was always poor, and had a powerful party against him; but he rose to be the first man in the county of Berkshire, was always esteemed for his sense : but had few who wished to promote him. For many years he was at the Council board and sustained his station with reputation.
1
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REV. GIDEON HAWLEY'S JOURNEY
were acceptable, as far as I know. He lived at Newington near Farmington, in Connecticut, where, I suppose, he died about the year 1758. Rebecca, my interpreter, laid her bones at Onohoghgwage in August, 1757, when I was at Marshpec. She was much lamented by the Indians. Her Indian name was Wausaunia.
Having returned from Boston, with a written recommendation from the governor, to which was affixed the great seal of the pro- vince and with other credentials and private letters from particular gentlemen, it was only necessary for us to prepare for our mis- sion, which we did without delay. But it was on Tuesday, May 22d, [1753] when Mr. Woodbridge, myself and company set out from Stockbridge for the Indian country. Our departure upon so great an errand as the planting christianity in the wilderness, about an hundred miles beyond any settlement of christian people, drew the attention of the whole town. And the Rev. Mr. Edwards, his wife, and others, accompanied us a considera- ble distance into the woods, toward Kinderhook. They returned after taking leave of us in the most affectionate manner, and we pursued our way having only an Indian track. We arrived at the first house, and put up for the night, and the next day came to Albany, where we tarried two nights, making acquaintances, and collecting some necessaries for our journey. We found friends, but the people in general did not much favour our undertaking. Trade with the savages was their support. This city is very compact. In time of war it is always picketed, and in the many expeditions against Canada, it has been the rendezvous of soldiers. It is considered as the head of navigation, although with small craft the river is navigable to the Half Moon, nine miles above it. The land on the back of the town is poor, but the intervals, up and down the river are fertile, and there are some very considerable and valuable islands not far from the city.
On Friday we left Albany. Mr. Woodbridge and I set out for. Mount Johnson, about thirty-six miles off, on Mohawk river, to pay our compliments to Colonel Johnson, and obtain his countenance in favour of our mission. At noon we came to Skenectady, a town in some respects similar to Albany, but more
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TO BROOME COUNTY.
pleasant. We crossed the ferry and by a letter from Colonel Jacob Wendell of Boston, were introduced to his friend Major Glan, who hospitably received us. Having dined, we proceeded, and had a very pleasant ride up Mohawk river, on the north side. At sun-set we were politely received at Colonel Johnson's gate, by himself in person. Here we lodged. His mansion was stately, and situate a little distance from the river, on rising ground, and adjacent to a stream which turned his mill. This gentleman was well known in his civil, military, and private character. He was the first civil character in the county of Albany at that day ; and after this by means of the war, which commenced in 1755, and his connexion with the Indians, of whom he was appointed sole superintendant for that part of the continent, he arose to great eminence. In 1756, he was made a baronet. It was favourable to our mission to have his patronage, which I never lost. In the year 1765, I found him at another mansion, about eight miles from this, and four from the river. This last was a very superb and elegant edifice, surrounded with little buildings for the accommodation of the Indians, when down upon treaties or conferences with him. Mr. Woodbridge and I took our leave of him in the morning, rode up to the ford, and crossed the river, and came over to the south side, and rode to what was called the Mohawk castle ; near which was a stone chapel and a village of Indians, sitnate on Schoharry creek, not far from the place where it discharges its waters into the Mohawk.
We dined with the commandant of the garrison, which con- sisted of a sergeant and a few privates, under Lieutenant Butler, who resided there with his family. We heard the western news and that the French in great force had passed the Ontario lake, going, as it was conjectured, to the Ohio ; where they erected the fort, which was called Duquesne, now Pittsburgh.1 Mr. Butler obtained for us an Indian guide, to conduct us across to Schoharry, about sixteen miles south, through a wilderness. We went up the creek. Our path was obscure and obstructed, and the travelling uncomfortable. We came to a resting place, and breathed our horses, and slaked our thirst at the stream,
1 This force passed Oswego on the 14 May, 1753. See Doc. Ilis. ii. 625.
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REV. GIDEON HAWLEY'S JOURNEY
when we perceived our Indian looking for a stone, which having found, he cast to a heap, which for ages had been accumulating by passengers like him, who was our guide. 1
We inquired why he observed that rite. IIis answer was, that his father practiced it, and enjoined it on him. But he did not like to talk on the subject.
I have observed in every part of the country, and among every tribe of Indians, and among those where I now am, in a particular manner, such heaps of stones or sticks collected on the like occasion as the above. The largest heap I ever observed, is that large collection of small stones on the mountain between Stock- bridge and Great-Barrington. We have a sacrifice rock, as it is termed, between Plymouth and Sandwich, to which stones and sticks are always cast by Indians who pass it.
This custom or right is an acknowledgment of an invisible being. We may style him the unknown God, whom this people worship. This heap is his altar. The stone that is collected is the oblation of the traveller, which, if offered with a good mind, may be as acceptable as a consecrated animal.
It was and is my business to declare his eternal power and Godhead, whom they acknowledged, but ignorantly worshipped; and to declare his Son, the appointed mediator and Saviour, in his character, and unfold the truths of his gospel, which has brought life and immortality to light. But perhaps these heaps of stones may be erected only to a local deity, which most probably is the case. Mr. Woodbridge and I, with assidnity pursued our way, one after the other, through bushes, and sloughs, water and mire as our guide directed. And at dusk we arrived at the nearest houses between fort IInnter and Schoharry ; but did not put up until we came to what was accounted a publick house, but very unfit for the entertainment of gentlemen strangers. It had only one room. In that room was what is called a slaw-bunk, with a straw-bed, on which we lodged. This however was not
1 " Somewhere between Schoharie creek and Caughnawaga commenced an Indian road or foot path, which led to Schoharie. Near this road, and within the Northern bounds of Schoharie county, has been seen from time inmemorial a large pile of stones, which has given the name "Stone heap patent" to the tract on which it occurs, as may be seen from ancient deeds." Extract quoted by Barber & Ilowe in their Ilist. Coll. of N. Y.
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TO BROOME COUNTY.
the worst of it; for we had been contented with coarse fare and ill accommodations, in case we could have had quiet rest ; but the unhappiness of our case was, that it was the end of the week; and to spend their wages three or four old countrymen came in, and gamed and drank through the night, within a foot or two of our bed. We remonstrated and complained, but in vain. Having had broken rest through the week, we needed balmy sleep to refresh us, but of which we were denied.
Lord's-day. 27th. Having found our interpreter and company at the upper end of the town, we went and had a meeting at the Mohawk village, where I preached and prayed in the forenoon. In the afternoon, Mr. Woodbridge and I went to the Dutch meet- ing in that vicinity. Those who are in meeting behave devoutly in time of service. But without, they are at play. I have been at their meetings, when the boys through the service, and even at the celebration of the Lord's-supper, have been playing bat and ball the whole term around the house of God. Coming out of meeting, we observed the lower orders at all sorts of recreation. Tous, who had been used to the strictness of a New-England sabbath, it appeared very profane. But custom will make any thing familiar.
Monday, 28th. To-day we were very busy in collecting stores and necessaries for our journey, designing the next day to plunge into that immense wilderness that lies to the southward and westward of us, and inhabited only by savages. We provided two sacks of flour, which we bought at very moderate rates, and hired a man and horse to carry it over land to the Susquehanna. Our company from Stockbridge was Mr. Woodbridge, Mr. Ashley and wife, and myself, and three or four blacks. Here we had volunteers, and particularly one fellow named Pallas, a vagrant Indian, whose company we had reason to regret, but could not refuse upon our mission.
Tuesday, 29th. Having assembled our company, we ascend a steep mountain, directing our course almost west. Our way was generally obstructed by fallen trees, old logs, miry places, pointed rocks, and entangling roots, which were not to be avoided. We were alternately on the ridge of a lofty mountain, and in the depths of a valley. At best, our path was obscure, and we needed guides to go before us. Our interpreter was on
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a single horse, which was very sure footed, but she needed every attention. She passed this wilderness for the last time. In the afternoon we came to rivulets which empty their waters into the Susquehanna, and the land becomes more level, and the travel- ling not so dangerous and difficult. Night approaches; we halt . by one of these streams; a fire is kindled; the kettles are filled; we refresh ourselves; and we adore Divine Providence, return- ing thanks for the salvations of the day, and committing ourselves to God for the night, whose presence is equally in the recesses of the solitary wilderness, and the social walks of the populous city. With the starry heavens above me, and having the earth for my bed, I roll myself in a blanket ; and without a dream to disturb my repose, pass the night in quiet, and never awake till the eyelids of the morning are opened, and the penetrating rays of the sun look through the surrounding foliage; when we arise refreshed, and again address that great and good being, whose constant visitation supports, cheers, and refreshes us; and invoke his protection, direction, and blessing. And this is our practice, extraordinaries excepted, through the journey, both in the morning and at evening. Our enterprise naturally inspired us with devotion; and the august and stupendous works of crea- tion filled us with awe. We read God's name in capitals.
It may not be impertinent to observe, that in this wilderness, we neither hear nor see any birds of musick. These frequent only the abodes of man. There is one wood bird, not often scen, but heard without any melody in his note, in every part of the wilderness, wherever I have been. In some parts of this exten- sive country, the wild pigeons breed in numbers almost infinite. I once passed an extensive valley where they had nested; and for six or eight miles, where the trees were near and thick, every tree had a number of nests upon it; and some, not less than fifteen or twenty upon them: But as soon as their young are able, they take wing and are seen there no more.
Wednesday, 30th. Having met with nothing remarkable, we arrive at Towanoendalongh in the afternoon. Here were three wigwams, and about thirty souls. We were impatient to see the famous Susquehanna; and as soon as we came, Mr. Woodbridge
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TO BROOME COUNTY.
and I walk down to its banks. Disappointed at the smallness of its stream, he exclaimed, " Is this Susquehanna?"
When we returned, our young Indians, who had halted came in, looking as terrible and ugly as they could, having bedaubed their faces with vermillion, lampblack, white lead, &c. A young Indian always carries with him his looking glass and paint ; and does not consider himself as dressed until he has adjusted his countenance by their assistance.
I visited from house to house, and found a child but just alive, I pray with it ; was desired to baptize it, but excused myself on account of my not being ordained. The Mohawks are fond of christening their children. The Indians on Mohawk river, I suppose, are all baptized. Some of them being at Stockbridge, at the birth of a child, were affronted, when the missionary there scrupled to baptize it. Indians are fond of rites and ceremonies.
The sick child died, and there were the most dolorons howlings among them at the event, which affected us.
Mr. Woodbridge and Mrs. Ashley, our interpreter, could not travel any further by land. We therefore concluded to get a canoe and convey them by water. From this place to Onohoghgwage, is three day's journey ; and how bad the travel- ling is, we cannot tell.
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