USA > New York > The documentary history of the state of New York, Vol. III pt 2 > Part 42
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OCTACONAL CHURCH.
LOCKS.
CANAL.
The Falls
Mills.
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MOHAWK AND BLACK RIVER COUNTRIES.
Neither is the corn tended-it is in general full of weeds and grass, and looks miserably. Rie is large. Flax does not appear to be good-whether this is owing to the season or the soil, I know not. Pease appear to flourish-so do oats; but the soil, I believe, is too hard, and clayey for Potatoes-they look very sickly.
I perceive, as yet, but one great defect in the morals of the people-they are too much addicted to drink.
The back part of the County of Montgomery consists of some pine plains ; but in general the lumber is beach and maple. A good grass and wheat country. Sacondaga creek heads in May field-runs N. E. and empties into a branch of North river, about 20 or 30 miles above Halfmoon.
Manheim, 8 miles from the Stone chh. in Palatine. This town is about 7 miles square. One Dutch Reformed chh. Vacant. Mr Dysling supplies about half the time in this town and half in Palatine : a Swiss, and a good character, and a man of learning. Passing on from Manheim, we find the mountains drawing to a point, upon the 2 sides of the river. When we come to the river, there is only a narrow pass for abont 3ths of a mile between the river and the foot of the rocks. When we come to the Falls the scene which presents is sublime. We now enter Herkimer county-and a small village of the town of Herkimer, called Little Falls, by which the canals pass, which were constructed in '95. The length of the canal is aths of a mile. There are 6 locks. The appearance of the falls is sublime. The village is built upon a ledge of rock. It promises fair to be a place of business as to trade, as all produce of the Royal grants will naturally be brought here to be shipped. They have a new and beautiful meeting-honse, standing abont 10 roils back on the hill, built in the form of an octagon. I am now, July 27th, about 30 rods from fall mountain on the south. Between this and the mountain is the Mohawk, and a bridge over it, in length about 16 rods. Between this and the bridge is the canal. On the right, about 40 rods are the falls, or one bar of the falls in full view. The falls extend abont 3ths of a mile. Upon the whole, this place is the most romantic of any I ever saw ; and the objects are such as to excite sublime ideas in a reflecting mind.
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MISSIONARY TOUR TIIROUGH THE
From the appearance of the rocks, and fragments of rocks where the town is built, it is, I think, demonstrably evident, that the waters of the Mohawk, in passing over that fall, were 80 or 00 feet higher in some early period than they are now. Ye Rocks even an hundred feet perpendicular above ye present high water mark, are worn in the same manner as those over which ye river passes. The rocks are not only worn by the descent of the water, but in the flat rocks are many round holes worn by the whirling of stones-some even 5 feet deep and 20 inches over. If these effects were produced by the water, as I have no doubt they were, then it follows as a necessary consequence, that the flats above, and all the low lands for considerable extent of country, were covered with water, and that here was a lake- but the water having lowered its bed, laid the lands above dry.
28th-About the middle of the afternoon I left the Little Falls, and turned 8 miles North in the town of Fairfield. Fairfield is, in general, on high land ; a little part of it, thro' which I passed is broken ground. It is, however, taken together, an excellent township. It is worthy of remark, that these highlands, in this part of the world, which at a distance appear to be mountains, when you approach them, dwindle into mere gradual and gentle ascents ; and there is but a mere trifle of unprofitable land to be found in the country. There is a great similarity in the nature of the soil-it is a loam with a little sand-mingled with a con- siderable quantity of white clay. In passing to the North from Fairfield to Norway-6 miles-I find that the hills increase in magnitude, but none so steep but that they may be tilled. Nor- way is an excellent township. But of this town and the towns in this vicinity, I shall give a further description when I return to them.
July 29th-Left Norway for Utica, about 22 miles to the south- west. In passing out of this town, I saw a danghter of Mr Joshua Sweet-appears to be comfortably situated. About 3 miles from the center of Norway, we go down from the uplands, and come upon White Creek, a very useful stream. Here the hills are rugged. We rise from the creek again into uplands- pass on a few miles, and go down upon Canada creek. This is
Whitestown in 1802.
.
F:
1
.
.
고
Nearly one Mile.
15.14
Y
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MOHAWK AND BLACK RIVER COUNTRIES.
a river a little larger than that of Deerfield. After crossing ye river. We begin to rise a mountain which is patent land. We go on 10 miles thro' this mountain, which is the high- est in those parts-but all good passable land. At the foot of this mountain, we enter into a corner of the town of Skyler. From thence we go about 6 miles to the river road-pass a few miles in Deerfield, and pass the Mohawk in Utica. This is a very pleasant and beautiful vilage ; but it is filled with a great quantity of people of all nations and religions. I put up at Mr Baggs'-saw the lady of the Hon. C. Phelps Esqr on her way from Canadaigna to Suffield, in a common Dutch waggon, cov- ered with tow cloth. My health is good-something wearied with travelling. Determined to visit Norway, on my return home.
30th-From Utica to Whitesborongh, is 4 miles-pleasant riding. Whitesborough is not so large and flourishing a place as I expected to find. It is, however, a pleasant village. Dined at Dr Mosley's. In the afternoon rode out 9 miles to Clinton. This is a flourishing place. The land is the best I have seen since I left home, and is the best tilled. The people are princi- pally from Connecticut. On my way to this town, saw Capt. Mitchel, and his daughter who married a Rice. Meeting with Mitchel and his family was a pleasing scene. In all this part of the country there is no waste land ; and indeed the original Whitestown-appears to be the garden of the world. Was treated with the greatest kindness and attention in Capt. Mitch- el's family-which, as far as I am able to judge, is in a good sitnation. His farm is now in the bloom, and its appearance is pleasing.
31st-Parted with my good friend Mitchel and his family- returned back to Whitesborongh-spent the afternoon very agreeably and profitably with Mr Dodd, the minister. The sit- uation and buildings of Whitesborough may be seen in my rough draught.
August 1st , Sunday .- Preached for Mr Dodd, in a schoolhouse. Audience devout, and attentive-a great mixture of people, as respects nations, and religions.
Afternoon at Utica-put up with Lawyer Clark from Lebanon. There is but a handful of people in this [place] who have much
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MISSIONARY TOUR TIIROUGHI TIIE
regard for preaching, or for any thing but the world. 8 years last spring there were but 2 houses in the present town plot. There is now above 90-Lodge at Baggs'.
August 2d .- Started for Floid-rode 11 miles to a Capt. Rice's. Preached in the evening. I know not what remarks to make upon the inhabitants of this town-a half a dozen excepted, they seem to be the fag-end of man in disorder, and confusion of all kinds. The baptists have some regularity ; but the methodists are producing the scenes which are transpiring in Kentucky. Women here methodists, pray in their families instead of ye men- and with such strength of lungs as to be distinctly heard by their neighbors. I had almost as many nations, sects, and religions present to hear me preach, as Peter had on the day of Pentacost. In this town there is an excellent character, Esqr Dier-he tells me that Clinton has given commissions to 5 men for Justices, in this place-one of whom is a renegade Irishman, without character and without prayer ; and the other has no bible in his house. In fact, this is a most miserable place,-as to inhabitants. The land is good-too good for such inhabitants.
3d and 4th .- At Trenton This town is a part of the Holland Patent. Boon's settlement is within the circle of this town. The land is tolerable-some of it very good-well watered- abont 130 voters .- Found on some of as high land as any in the town, rocks and stones containing sea shells petrified into stone, and forming parts of stones. This is another evidence that the Mohawk at the Little Falls was once obstructed by the rocks- and yt the lands in this town were a part of a large lake Timber-beech, maple, ash, birch, and bass.
5th, 6th, 7th, Sth, 9th, 8- 10th-STEUBEN. This patent is on the height of land between ye Mohawk and the Black river-some of the headwaters of both are in this town. Standing on a hill, near the centre of the town, we have an extensive prospect on 3 sides ;- to the N. W., about 35 miles, we see the Oneida Lake- south we see ye settlements of New Hartford and Clinton- Clinton Academy is in full view. We can here see the tops of the Catskill mountains-S. E. & S. W. the tops. It is said that upon ye tops of ye trees Ontario is in sight. Upon this height of land, I found in a number of places sea shells which form constituent
RIVER
MOHAWK
7
. About 10 Rods.
Bagg's.
G
60 Rods.
1
ה.הרפת ר בר הר.
10 Rodas.
60 Rods.
. L.E.C. E.M. G.A.
1135
MOHAWK AND BLACK RIVER COUNTRIES.
parts of rocks and stones. This land is so high that this singular fact cannot be accounted for by supposing that the rocks at ye Little Falls, were once united ; for this land is evidently much higher than the mountain at that place. The face of the country is here rough and uncouth ; something stony-yet no hills so steep as to render any land useless. Between this and Clinton is about 4 miles of low flat land-very rich, and heavy timbered. Unsettled ; and, indeed, but a very little part of this county is settled. A considerable part of ye lands which are settled, are to hire on lease-the inhabitants have not ye right of soil. 10$ is the common price for 100 acres annual rent ; but most of these leases are for perpetuity. About 1-3d of the people in Steuben are Welsh-who are industrious and prudent beyond all example. I am now at ye house of the first settler who came into the town, Esqr Siser's.
Here I find the grave of the once active and enterprising STEUBEN. He lies in a swamp, under a Hemlock, with a bier standing over the grave, and a few rough boards nailed to some trees to keep ye cattle off. Alas! what is man! that the great STEUBEN should be suffered to lie in such a place-and without a decent momument.
A few rods from this swamp, we find the place of his former residence-of which I have taken a rough drawing. This is a very healthful situation. The house faces the south-and there is a gradual descent for about 80 rods, and an opening about 50 rods wide. The seat of this great man was not indeed a palace, nor what we should suppose would afford contentment to the mind of an enterprising nobleman: It consists of 2 log houses- one at the end of the other-containing in the whole 3 rooms- unsealed. It is, however, a decent loghouse. The Baron died in a fit of numb palsy.
Crops in this town much injured by rust. Winter wheat is open to winter kill-the lands, though high, are very wet. There is, however, some low, rich land, of ye nature of marsh. The prospect on the height of land in this town is extensive.
WESTERN, Wednesday, 11th .- In passing from Steuben west, we descend for about 2 miles-and come to a branch of the Mohawk-and pass a tract of excellent land-heavy timbered,
1136
MISSIONARY TOUR THROUGH THE
and well watered. In about 2 miles from this Eastern settle- ment in this town, we come to another settlement, in which we find Gen. Floyd, one of the signers of Independence, and one of ye members of Congress during the whole of the American war with great britain. He is about 70 years of age-retains in full his powers of mind. He spends the summers in this place, and the winters on his seat on Long Island. He is a gent of immense property: and is now building an elegant seat upon the banks of the Mohawk.
It is incredible how thick this part of the world is settled- and what progress is making in opening the wilderness and turning it into a fruitful plain. The land in this town is most excellent-crops are rich. The same evil operates here, how- ever, as in many parts of this country-the lands are most of them leased. This must necessarily operate to debase the minds and destroy the enterprise of the settlers-altho' the rent is small-only |9 an acre; yet if men do not possess the right of soil, they never will nor can feel independent. And what is as great an evil, they will always be under the influence of their landlords. Lodged at Gen. Floyd's-on the night of the 12th- Thursday.
Friday, 13th .- Passed on 4 miles to the west to a settlement on the bend of ye Mohawk-a flat and rich country-land here a black loam ;- it is a meadow, and much of it is made ground. Crossed the Mohawk, and put up with Esqr Wicks-treated with the greatest respect. A woman by the name of Anderson called to see me-she was a bush of Enfield-a M' Wills, originally from Shelburn, called on me. If this part of the county may be found all ye shades of character, from the most ignorant and abandoned, to the most virtuons and excellent. Society is in a miserable state-it is, however, progressing on towards order. There is a mixture of all sects, which will undoubtedly for a long time retard religions order. In consequence of the impru- dence of ye methodists, and their erroneous sentiments, party spirit in matters of religion, it is to be feared, will soon arise. In this town there is one congregational chh .- small.
Saturday, 14th .- Rode 3 miles to the west. The face of the country level, and excellent-heavy timbered. Inhabitants very
·
Rome in 1802.
...
Fort
Mohawk
River.
CANAL
Coat of the inland Navigations
1
Locks.
10
.IN CARN PIASE
1137
MOHAWK AND BLACK RIVER COUNTRIES.
thick-log-houses may be found in every direction. The people appear to be cheerful, and are all under the infinence of a hope of better times-the happiest sitnation, I believe that men can be in. Over all the face of this country, may be found in great plenty the petrified sea shells-some in rocks, and some in stones. Timber-is beech and maple, generally ; some ash, and a little bass.
Monday, 16th .- At M' Lord's-who has 2 sisters with him- all of whom are children of Benjamin Lord of Norwich-and are my cousins. They are comfortably situated-have a good farm, and a good framed house. The west part of Western is in a fine tract of land, and many of the inhabitants are good characters, and persons of some property.
Tuesday, 17th .- At Eli Bush's-in ye Northwest corner of the town. All his children but one are with him ; and he is in a flourishing situation, and appears to enjoy himself well. A mile and a half west is Fish creek, which supplies all this part of the world with the best of salmon. The people are not allowed to take them with seins, but stabs. This river is peenliar. Ye banks, for miles, are almost perpendicular-and are from 50 to 150 feet above the water. It is very rapid, and rocky. It arises from a pond in which ye salmon spawn. This part of the town is on high lands; yet ye ascent is so gradnal as hardly to be perceivable. We are now in sight of the Oneida lake.
The sea shells, petrified into stones, are very thick on this land. Face of ye country very pleasant. Crops of corn, oats, and grass, equal if not superior to any I have seen. Wator pure. It is, in fact, a noble country, and needs nothing but clearing to make it a fruitful garden. However strange it may appear, yet it is a fact, goods of all kinds are cheaper here than in ye county of Hampshire. Salt is 7|6-or by ye barrel 6|.
ROME, Wednesday, 18th, at Esqr Hathaway's. This is a plea- sant village, upon the banks of the Mohawk. The old Fort Stanwix stands about 30 rods from ye river. It is regularly built : the intrenchment is very deep. In the centre of the fort stands the old block house. This can better be described by my drawing.
VOL. III.
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MISSIONARY TOUR THROUGH TIIE
It is a very great singularity, that the waters of the Mohawk and those of Wood Creek, which run in opposite directions, should here come within a mile of each other-and should admit of a communication by water through canals. This communica- tion is of incalculable benefit to this part of the world. Produce may be sent both ways. Sunday, after meeting, took tea at Pease's .- He appears to be a man of business, and is gaining property. He has a family, and a sister with him, who appears to be a very likely person.
CAMDEN, August 23d .- 22 miles N. W. of Rome. This town began to settle about five years since ; contains about 80 families. Some of the land very excellent. Here is pine timber. Soil is a black loam in general. There is in this town, which includes six original towns, some sandy hills, and some oak timber. There is a variety of lands in this town. There are 2 settlements, which have unfortunately separated as to publie worship. Good mills on a branch of Fish creek. I have now got into the wilder- ness indeed ;- the openings are small-the people rub hard- some of them feel a want of the necessaries of life.
Nº 1-26th -10 miles Northwest of Utica .- For a few miles back the road is intolerable. Here we find but small openings. There are but 40 families in the town. The first opening made here was in 1800. The land is tolerable, but not the best : excellent farms may, however, be obtained at 3 dols. per acre. The settlers here appear to be an orderly, well disposed people, principally from Connecticut. The first settlers have an exceed- ingly hard time of it for several years, unless they have some property beside their land. Water in general good-very well watered. Corn looks good. The ground is a little too moist for wheat at present ; but will be sufficiently dry when the lands become more opened. It is called high land ; it is, however, but a little higher than the general level of the country.
9 miles North of No. 4 .- Redfield-9 miles without a house, and nothing but a foot path-land tolerably good, heavy
One bushel and § of Indian eorn, it is said, will make a barrel of soap. Put the corn into strong lye, and boil a couple of hours, and it will become soap.
1139
MOHAWK AND BLACK RIVER COUNTRIES.
timbered-beech, maple, hemlock, bass, and ash-level country. We now come upon Salmon River, abounding in fish of this kind, and trout. Redfield began to be settled a year ago- contains 80 families-lies on Salmon River-a good township- have a minister-it will be a central town. The people all of one sentiment-a good plan for new settlers. Land 3 dolls. Settling very rapidly. Put up with Mr. Johnson, who married a Pomroy.
Sept. 1st, 1802 .- I this morning started from Mr. Johnson's- rode 2 miles, and entered into a wilderness of 21 miles without a house. The road was cut out this summer-and is a tedious, hilly, rooty, muddy, stumpy, solitary road. Travelled, as I supposed, 12 miles-called at a large hemlock-bent down some friendly maples that my horse might gather the leaves. Enquired of my saddle bags for some dinner-made a comfortable meal. Divided my dinner with my horse ; as he was not accustomed to eating meat, gave him a double portion of bread. After refreshing in this manner, travelled on the other 13 miles, and came upon the south branch of Sandy Creek, about three miles from the Lake. Crossed the river-turned to the east ; in about half a mile came to the old fort ; examined it, and found myself lost in conjectures. Rode 4 miles to Mr. Hockley's on the North branch. This is about 4 miles above the junction of the 2 branches- about 13 miles from Ontario. This is as fine a tract of country as I think I ever saw. It is heavy timbered ; but the land is as rich as land can be. This is a rich country from here to the Black river. This town, and undoubtedly all this country, has been, in some ancient period, thickly inhabited. In many places there are evident marks of houses having stood as thick as to join each other. The remains of old fire-places built of stones- wells evidently dug and stoned, to a considerable depth ; and the remains of old forts and entrenchments,-are all evidences of this fact. The fort on the south branch is ploughed, and the old fire-places appear to have been about two rods apart, thro'out the whole. The earthenware of a peculiar structure, and of singular materials, is scattered over the ground. The point of a steel sword-2 edges-abont 1 foot 3 long, was found last spring in ploughing in the fort. The fortification is regularly built with
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MISSIONARY TOUR THROUGII THIE
5 sides. and 5 gateways-is about 20 rods from the river-upon the N. bank ; 1400 or 1500 rods to the North-East. Near the North branch, is another Fort ; West of which 150 or 200 rods there is an intrenchment lately found, half a mile in length, in a straight line-and also a breastwork. 23 north of this, is another fort, regularly built, containing about 10 acres. Upon all those works the trees are of equal dimensions with those around. I measured one and found it 4 feet diameter-and saw some which had fallen and were alnost consumed, which appeared to be of equal dimensions, and which grew upon the highest parts of the fort. The people frequently find pipes, something in the form of German pipes. The bottom of the N. branch of the river is a level rock-standing at a little distance it looks like ice ; when within a rod and half or 2 rods it is crooked. This rock may be found all over the country, from 15 to 20 or 30 feet under ground-it is all a limestone, and is filled with sea shells, petrified or cemented, into the solid rock. At the end of the lake there are large marshes, on which vegetation is very rapid. Some of this is planted with corn, and produces abundantly : but in consequence of their being so much grass and other productions, which cannot be gathered, the people are in the fall of ye year liable to a distressing fever-much more malignant and dangerous than the common fever and agne. It is this season hitherto healthy-none have the fever, excepting a few who have collected hay upon the marshes, near the month of Sandy Creek. In the Lake there are large winrows of sand, 5 miles in length, on which there stands, here and there, a pine, and some other small trees, which makes the appearance from the land very picturesque. This town began to settle in '98 is called Mexico, or Ellisburgh; in the town of Mexico-9 miles square-about 30 families-is rapidly settling-inhabitants very rough in general. An evidence of this country having been formerly settled, beyond what has been mentioned, is this-European productions-and such as would be left by an improved people, are found here-as currants black and red, angelica, plantain, English pursely, high balms, peppermint, and indeed almost everything which is found on Connecticut river.
There are in the marsh, hewn and square timbers which have
J 200 Rods.
Breast Work hall'a mile long
raised like other Breast Mark.
The Fire Places In this Fort appear to have been within one Rod and u half of each other.
1100 Rods
Kødseach mede
$
· N
1141
MOHAWK AND BLACK RIVER COUNTRIES.
been dug up many feet from ye surface, and where this people mow ? A batteau has also been dug up from a considerable depth under the surface, half a mile from the lake in the marsh.
M. Hackley tells me, that between the Black river and the St. Lawrence, there are ye same marks of former settlements as here. There are forts built in the same form ; and all ye marks of a society different from that of Indians. Last summer a man in digging a cellar, found a foot under the surface, that he had fallen upon an old colepit. I am told by the people here, that pieces of broken bricks are found in all the lands they plongh.
Sept. 1st -I have this day rode a mile and a half into the woods to examine the remains of another fort ; and I am truly thrown into a wilderness of conjecture. The fort lies upon 2 sides of a small creek, which is about the centre between the N. and S. branches of Sandy creek. It is an irregular fort, but was built with a good deal of art. The ditch is at present in many places, 4 feet below the surface. Standing in the ditch I find that I can just oversee the land in the fort. In one direction it is an hundred rods across; and on an average, it is about 50 wide. There are a number of gateways. On both sides of ye creek there are most singular walls. Upon the East side there is one redoubt, about 8 rods from one of the gateways. Some parts of the wall are doubled-or, rather, there is an inner and an outer wall. The ground appears to be very much broken up on the Nº E. corner-and looks as tho' there had been works within works. Within the walls upon each side of the creek there are wells, or peculiar springs which answered for wells. I am in doubt whether those appearances are such as give suf- ficient evidence that they are the effects of art.
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