USA > New York > The documentary history of the state of New York, Vol. III pt 2 > Part 43
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Upon the west side of the creek the well is at the corner of ye fort-and upon the top is abont 9 rods round. It descends, and is very steep until it comes to a point at the bottom. In the corner of this basin there is a living spring-the water rises and passes again into the ground. A pole may be run down into the spring about 15 feet.
Sept. 2d -At the house of a Rhode Island baptist. Here is a mixture of all the physical and moral evils that can well be conceived of. Here may be found filth of all kinds, such as dust,
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MISSIONARY TOUR THROUGHI THE
mud, fleas, bedbugs, gnats, rotten meat, and sour bread ; and, as to moral evils, you may here find ignorance, self-will, self-suf- ficiency, ill manners, pride, boasting, fanaticism, and witchcraft ; and this description, I believe, will apply to all the families in the town, Mr Hackley's excepted.
Sept.3d -1 miles 3 to the N. East at Nº 7-A decent, respec- table, industrious people in general-anxious for privileges. Most of the people from Connecticut. Visited a fort 13 miles from the river, Nº -This fort was built in ye same manner with the others. It stands upon ye east side of a marsh, which was evidently once a pond. The wall begins upon the top of the bank, and is 300 paces round to the bank, where it ends. The base of the angle is 120 paces-probably the bank was picketed. It has several gateways. In this trench there is one dead tree, that is almost ready to fall to pieces, which measures 13 in diameter ; and many trees stand upon ye banks of this ditch 4 feet diameter. The land here is the first rate-and in this town there has been no sickness since they began to settle-except in one or two instances of persons who had been down to the lake in the unhealthy season. The fact is, that all this country is a rich meadow it is made ground for many feet from the surface. There is now before me a field of corn equal to any I ever saw in Deer- field meadow, tho' dunged-no plough, or harrow, has ever been on the land-nor has it been hoed but twice, and then slightly. Every thing which is put into the ground grows as rank as pos- sible ; but the people are yet very poor-having been on but 2 years. Deer, salmon and tront very plenty. This is 8 miles in a direct line from the lake. Salmon run up every freshet, and ye people can easily take them with spears. But 3 families in this town the winter before the last. I find by intelligent people in whom I may confide, and who have seen them, that there are 2 other forts in this quarter. One lies on the forks of the north branch of Sandy creek, 33 miles S. East from the fort which I examined in this town-about 90 rods in diameter; and that there is another 3 miles to the N. W. of the one I examined. This is an octagon, containing abont 2 acres, with 2 entrench- ments, extending in different directions from the fort 20 rods The whole of these works are made in the solid rock-are about
300 paces around.
It0 paces ground level
SIN JOR N PLASE
S Squares contains Lacres, cut in solid Rocks EEt.decp. + Feet wide Eutrenchment
20 Rods.
"'¿miles.
4.90 Rods.
3 miles
.North Sandy Creek
-
South Sandy Creek.
4
1143
MOHAWK AND BLACK RIVER COUNTRIES.
4 feet deep and 4 feet wide. This is a most stupendous work and could not have been effected without iron tools.
In this country may be found growing wild, and in great plen- ty, hops, grapes, cranberries, plums, strawberries, gooseberries; blackberries, raspberries, currants, plantain, dock, yarrow, spikenard, sarsaparilla, mullen, burdock, doek, English pur- sley, French sorrel, peppermint, common mint, catnip, thorn apples, of which pies are made, Indian corn, potatoes, oats and flax-peas, beans, and all kinds of productions grow very rank. Wheat this year was hurt with the rust, but grew amazing rank. Face of the country beautiful-no stones of any consequence. From 3 pints of barley 3 bushels were produced this year. There appears by the best accounts to be forts built in the manner of those on Sandy creek; all over the country from the St. Lawrence to the Black River, and South and Southwest, all round the lake particularly, and upon the military grounds-and these by account correspond with those on the Ohio, in their conformation. They are a ditch, and the earth is banked up on the inside. The ditches of those which I have seen, I think must have been at first abont 8, 10 & 12 feet wide ; how deep cannot be even judged with any degree of certainty, until some person who has time shall dig down and throw out the made earth. By whom were those works wrought ? Not by the natives, surely ; because in various parts of this county iron implements are dug and plough- ed up. And if the natives ever had the art of working iron, it is not probable they would lose an art so useful. Further, noth- ing ever appeared in the natives which indicated so much im- provement in the art of self defence, as to build forts so regular as those are found to be. Again, the fort near Sandy creek, which is cut in the rock, must have been a work too stupendous for untanght savages to effect; and it is doubtful whether it could have been done without the use of powder. And there is a difficulty attending this fort-on condition, or suppose it to have been done by any European nation, they would not have undertaken a work so arduons, when so little benefit could have been derived from it, in proportion to the work. Who then wrought those works ? That they were done by the hand of man there is no doubt; but by whom, and when, and for what
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purpose, must remain at present inexplicable enigmas. What has become of this people ? and why have we no histories of such a nation as must have inhabited this part of the world ? Were these the works of the ante-diluvians-or is this the land of Nazareth, to which Esdras says the ten tribes travelled, and were an hundred and twenty days on their journey ? Or is it the Vineland of the emigrant Sweeds, who returned to their na- tive country but once ? or are they ye works of Spaniards in searching for gold ? or was this land inhabited by the emigrant Mexican, after the Spanish conquest ? That these works were not done by French or English is beyond a doubt, from various reasons too numerous to mention. I am informed that in the Military tract several pieces of stamped coin are found, which cannot be read by the ignoront peasants, and which I am fearful will be lost. Probably if a knowledge of those ancient people is ever obtained, it will be derived from inscriptions on stones or metals, which may have withstood the rest of time.
In passing from Nº 7 to Nº 3, we follow a branch of the creek for several miles-or ride in a valley. The hills on each side of the creek are high for this part of the world. From the creek, about 20 or 30 rods, there is a considerable of an ascent ; when you get to the heighth, the land is level, and rich.
Sept. 7th.Nº 4 .- Near a Mr.Tuttle's, where I now am, which is on the height of land. There is a spring, or rather a brook, which empties from a erevice in the rock. The water is pure, and in quantity is fully sufficient to turn an overshot gristmill.
Sth .- This morning I travelled 2ths of a mile to the North in the woods to see the remains of another old fortification. This, appears to be no more than a breastwork : it is, however, dug in the same manner with the forts, and the carth thrown on the inside. The intrenchment, or fort, crosses to opposite hills, and leaves a point of land about 3 acres. The fortification is about 90 paces across. The form may be seen by the drawing.
From Nº 1, or Brownsville, there is a constant trade by boats carried on with Montreal, Kingston, and Quebec, principally in flour, pot and pearl ashes. The voyage is performed as far as Kingston in a day-and from Montreal in about a week. Business is opening very fast.
.95 Puces.
.
on a Branch of Sandy Creek.
.It d'o 3 or Watertown 22 miles from the Black River
11.15
MOHAWK AND BLACK RIVER COUNTRIES.
Examined a beaver dam, which contained about 30 acres. The dam is between 20 and 30 rods long-in some places 3 feet high, and has the appearance of a dike. It is grown over with grass-and is tight where the Indians have not opened it. Among many smaller ones, I found one tree fallen by the beavers across their dam, measuring 1 feet in circumference ; but in , general the trees they cut are from an inch and half to 5 and C inches over.
The town of Watertown, or Rutland, has increased rapidly from ye first settlement ; 2 years since there were but 7 families- there are now 150 families-160 in the train band-are scattered over almost the whole town, of 6 by 9 miles. There are 3 worshiping assemblies on the Sabbath.
9th-Rode 1 mile to the North to visit a poor and distressed family-and baptised 5 children, -- the mother being a member of the chh. at Paris,-viz : Joseph, Thomas, Mathus, Hendon, Chaney, Eunice, Loisa, -- children of Mr Sol. Tuttle and Sarah his wife. This town is on rather elevated land-the headwaters of several small branches of Sandy Creek, are found here. Crops look well. Soil, a black loam.
Champion, or No. 4, 8 miles to the N. East-at Henry Mosley's. Here I am happy to find old acquaintances, and old fashioned cookery-and things comfortable and convenient. This town is some part of it on elevated ground. It lies in the great bend of the Black river-4 miles from the river-good miles; 80 families. Saw Lucy Mosley, from Westfield (and Ben Buck). The people appear to be happy-visited a Mr Peirce, who married a Vanduzen-and also a Capt" Hubbard, all from Middletown.
Monday morning .- Capt. Mosley and 5 others rode out with me to see a great curiosity, 6 miles from Champion, in ye corner of No 5. It is a gulf in Deer River. We walked 2ths of a mile from the road, on the rocks on the bed of the river. The rocks are limestones, and smooth, with here and there a large crack. The river has worn the rock on an average about 20 feet deep- and bed of the river is abont 9 or 10 rods wide. At present there is on cach side of the stream about 3 rods of fine walking
when we come to the falls, the most sublime prospect presents
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MISSIONARY TOUR THROUGHI TIIE
which is conceivable. The ground above has the same appear ance with the general form of the country, and is level. The water passes down into a gulf 155 feet. The top of the gulf from rock to rock is, as near as I could judge, 12 rods; at the bottom, it is on an average 8 or 9. For the first hundred feet the rocks are perpendicular-and then there lies fragments of rocks and stones-so that where the water passes, when it has come to the bottom of the fall, it is about 4 rods wide. Upon ye side of ye place where the water passes over, M Mosley went to the edge, and let down a cord, with a stone, when I was at the bottom. The cord hung perpendicular, and I was then 24 feet from the base of the rock. The cord measured 155 by a square. 15 rods below the falls, the perpendicular rock is about 10 feet higher than where we measured. At the bottom where the water strikes, it is 120 feet wide. About 25 rods below this, there is a place where it is possible for people to get down; but extremely steep, and something dangerous; but we passed down without injury. At ye bottom of ye river there is ye same rock -which rock extends all over this county; how deep, no one can tell. The rock is a great curiosity; it is all a limestone, and is filled with every kind of sea-shells, petrified. I knocked out of ye solid rock, 155 feet below the surface of the earth, various shells, which may now be seen. This gulf is without any doubt all made from 3 ths of a mile below by the wearing of the water, which makes the curiosity of the shells vastly greater. And, indeed, this whole rock, which is certainly 155 feet deep, and which extends to Sandy Creek-and perhaps 50 or 100 miles round in all directions, made up of sea-shells of every kind,-as cockles, clams, oysters, and a thousand others. At Zadock Bush's.
1.1th .- Rode about 2 miles to another gulf upon a small creek in Lowville. The fall is about 70 feet, among clay rocks. These rocks are singular. They appear to be laid up in the most exact and curious manner. The stones in some places in courses of 4 feet wide, are an inch, and half inch square at the ends, and may be taken out about 8 inches long, in ye shape of hones- and they are said indeed to be most excellent hones; others are 2, 3, and 4 feet wide, and from 6 to 12 inches thick. At the
1147
MOHAWK AND BLACK RIVER COUNTRIES.
bottom of this roek may also be found intermingled with it, sea- shells, GO feet below the top of ye rock.
10th-At Capt. Clap's. Rode to see ye high falls of ye Black river. The fall is about 60 feet, not perpendicular. From the top to the bottom it is an inclined plane of 45 degrees. It is from below a most sublime prospect. These falls may be seen in the drawing. [ Too much defuced to be reproduced. ]
17th-Rode a mile to see a gulf upon a very small stream. When we come to the highlands, we enter into a valley, or gulf, about on an average 1 rods wide : the hills from 50 to 140 feet high. We travel about 2 miles and & with these appearances ; and then come perpendicular rocks, which appear to be laid up like ye most exact hewn stone of different widths, and lengths- and perfectly square. These works become nigher together until they are within 9 feet of each other, both at top and bottom. The gulf, or walls, are here 100 feet perpendicular. We are now 30 rods from the fall, which is about 50 feet ; but ye bottom of ye gulf being filled with water, I could proceed no farther. I could look up into this awful place about 10 rods before there was any bend in the gulf-and then it appeared to be a right angle. Those rocks for about thirteen rods, appear to be laid up with hewn stones, entirely perpendicular, and more perfeet than is in the power of man. Such a place as this baffles all descrip- tion. The stones are in general from one to 4 feet wide in front, and from 3 to 10 inches thick. From the bottom layers of these perpendicular walls, I knocked off pieces of the stones contain- ing sea-shells of various kinds-and there is every appearance that the whole of those rocks are composed of shells. These are not lime-stones in general ; but of a consistency between clay and flint, and are exceeding hard and thick, I think that the philosopher and the historian will be puzzled to account for those facts. Surely they open a wide field for contemplation, and conjecture. In examining the above gulf, I was happy in having the company and assistance of Major Bush and Capt. Clap. Capt. Clap has been in town 2 or 3 years ; Major Bush is now making preparations to remove his family next winter. Before I saw the country, I wondered that men so happily situated as they were, should remove in this wilderness ; but my
1148
MISSIONARY TOUR TIIROUGH THIE
wonder has ceased. The situation is pleasant and the land most excellent. It is a garden ; and must, when opened, and properly tilled, be productive far beyond any of ye meadows on Connecticut river, except those in Deerfield, which are annually flown.
From Turin, we came into Leyden, where Boon made a settlement. This place does not appear to be very flourishing. The people are poor, and too much of ye land is leased. The Americans never can flourish when on leased lands-they have too much enterprise to work for others, or to remain tenants- and where they are under the necessity of living on such lands I find that they are greatly depressed in mind, and are losing their animation.
From Boon's settlement, 13 miles to Remsen, is a most tedions road. Lands here are not so good as further down the river ; yet they are very productive. This is a poor society.
GENERAL REMARKS UPON THE BLACK RIVER COUNTRY.
The river lies in general very low, compared with the lands. On the S. W. side the road on an average may be 2 or 3 miles from ye river, and most of ye way the land is descending towards it; and in many places too marshy to admit of settlements. The country is heavy timbered. In some parts you will find townships quite level, and in others hilly ; but there is no waste land from hills- which are gentle ascents in most places, on a rich, productive soil. It appears to be a white clay, bordering upon a marl mingled with a black loam. In some places you find rotten slate, or rather clay stones. Over all this country sea-shells are found of almost all kinds. The country is well watered; and the water appears to be good-as good as can be from limestones.
People frequently raise their provisions the summer of their settling; if they go on in season, they chop down the trees, and get them off as soon as possible; and they sow spring wheat and plant corn. The wheat is sown and dragged; and if there is no blast, they reap from 25 to 35 bushels the acre. Corn is only planted npon the ground without plowing, and is seldom hoed more than once-and then no more is done than to ent up the fire weed: and corn planted and tended in this manner, I have
1149
MOHAWK AND BLACK RIVER COUNTRIES.
measured, which was 113 in height. It, however, does not appear to be so stocky as corn in Deerfield meadows. They tell me it produces from 10 to 70 bushels the acre. It would not answer here, however, to tend corn in this manner after ye first year of its being cleared-it would become weedy. Crops of all kinds appear to flourish, though the ground is not half tilled.
Poor people have, in general, been the first settlers. They have bought farms of about 100 acres-have cleared 10 or 20- built a log-house-and then sold to others, for a sum as much greater than they gave, as to purchase them another 100 acres- and by this means have placed themselves in a short time in a good situation. It is considered here but a small affair for a man to sell, take his family and some provisions, and go into the woods upon a new farm, erect him a house, and begin anew.
Society is here made up of all characters. It is a mixture of everything that can be well conceived of, both as to nations and religions. The great body of the inhabitants are, however, from Massachusetts and Connecticut.
One thing is peculiar in this wilderness,-every countenance indicates pleasure and satisfaction. The equality of circum- stances cuts off a great proportion of the evils which render men unhappy in improved societies, and the influence of hope is very apparent. I do not know that I have seen an unhappy person for 90 miles on this river. There is no complaining of hard times; but every one is cheerful and contented-for they all foresee, that in a few years they will have a great plenty of worldly goods, in a common course of events.
Norway, Sept. 21 .- The Royal grant (or Sir William Johnson's land,) is a tolerably good tract. It lies between the upper and lower Canada creek. It is high land, and is a grazing country. The people in general appear to be destitute of enter- prise; and they still live in their log huts. This remark will not apply, however, to the people in Salsbury. From this to Johnstown I met with nothing worthy of remark. From Johns- town to Fonda's Bush, the country has a New-England appear- ance as respects land. The ground is sandy, and is covered with white and pitch pine. From Fonda's Bush to Galway, 10 miles, the country is good, and has as many inhabitants as there
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MISSIONARY TOUR THROUGII THE
ought to be. From Galway to Northampton, 18 miles many good farms; but there is no land here like that on Black river and Sandy Creek. Put up with a Dutch deacon-had a dinner of boiled squash, swimming in butter, sweetened a little; and with this mess the family mixed vinegar in great plenty. This is a poor country-too sandy, and dry: and the inhabitants may in general be considered as the fag end of man. Houses misera- ble-fields lie open, without cultivation, and everything appears to be going to ruin.
These remarks will [not] apply, however, to all the inhabit- ants. Some appear to be very industrious men; and it is surprising what a difference there is between the appearance of farms that are tilled and such as are neglected.
albany about the
1
A. Strivesants Ali
From the Original Surrey by Rob! Yates.
In the Possession of the Hond 6. Y Lausing
Plan of the City of albany about the 1170
1.
--
00 $6
A. frecesont Mi
LITY OF RICHOH PEASE ALA-VT
From the Prague Survey by Rob! Yates.
In the Possession of the House 6 Y Lausing.
XXI.
RECTORS OF ST. PETER'S CHURCH, ALBANY.
The Rev. THOROUGHGOOD MOOR was the carliest Church of England clergyman in these parts, after the Rev. Mr. Talbot's short stay. He arrived at New York in 1704, and proceeded thence to Albany, as Missionary to the Mohawks. Owing to the influence of the fur traders, his efforts to convert the heathen were entirely without fruit, and he returned to N. York. He went next to Burlington, N. J., where he was so scandalized at the indecent conduct of Ld. Cornbury and his Lt. Gov., that he refused to admit the latter to the Lord's Supper. For this he was impri- soned, but having contrived to escape from jail, he embarked for England. The ship, in which he was a passenger, foundered at sea, and he, with all on board, unfortunately, perished. The first rector of St. Peter's Church, Albany, as far as our knowledge at present extends, was the
1. Rev. THos. BARCLAY. This gentleman was chaplain to the fort in 1708, and read the service and preached to the citizens in Dutch. He officiated also at Schenectady, and for the In- dians, until Nov., 1712, when the Rev. Wu Andrews came out as successor to Mr. Moor. Mr. A., however, had not greater · success among the natives than his predecessor, and he abandon- ed his mission in 1719.' Mr. Barclay's congregation met, for seven years, in a small Lutheran Chapel, when Gov. Hunter encouraged them to erect a church for themselves. To aid
I A elergyman, named Wm. Andrews, was a missionary in Schenectady, where he also kept a school, as late as 1773, but his health failing, from the labors attendant on these avocations, he was oblige ! to resign his charge. He removed to Williamsburgh, Va., but learning that the mission at Johnstown was vacant, by the retirement of the Rev. Mr. Mosley, pastor of that place, he immediately applied to Sir W. Johnson for that church, but we have not ascertained whether he ever returned to the Mohawk Valley.
1152
RECTORS OF ST. PETER'S CHURCHI, ALBANY.
them, he furnished all the stone and lime necessary for the build- ing ; the city presented £200, and contributions were received from Schenectady, and other parts of the province. The garri- son also subscribed, and £600 were soon collected. In Nov. 1716, the first English Church in Albany was opened for service. It was a handsome stone building, 58x 12 feet. The communion service presented by Q. Anne " to the Chapel of the Onondagas," during this rectorate, was, it is presumed, retained for the use of this Church, where it is still preserved. The Soc. for Prop. the Gospel withdrew its allowance soon after, the consequence of which was, the church ceased to have a minister, until the arrival of the
II. Rev. Mr. MILN. This clergyman was appointed in 1728, and continued until 1737, when he was transferred to N. J. He was succeeded by
III. Rev. HENRY BARCLAY, the son of Rev. Thos. B., a native of Albany, who graduated at Yale Coll. in 1731. He was appoint- ed, at Mr. Miln's recommendation, in 1735, Catechist to the Indians at Fort Hunter, and became rector in 1737-8, which office he filled until 1716, when he was appointed rector of Trinity Church, N. Y., where he died in 1761.
IV. Rev. JOHN OGILVIE, a native of New-York, and graduate of Yale Coll. Being a Dutch scholar, he was appointed to this mission in 1718, and arrived at Albany in March, 1719. In - 1760, he joined the expedition against Niagara, and continued attached to the army until the close of the French war. He succeeded Mr. Barclay, as rector of Trinity Church, N. Y., and died Nov. 26, 1774, aged 51. Ilis portrait is in the Vestry of Trinity Church. An attempt was made in 1763 and 1766 to have a translation of the book of common prayer, (prepared by Mess's Andrews, Barclay and Ogilvie) printed in New-York by Weyman, in the Mohawk language. But the difficulty to print such language was found almost insurmountable, as there was not at the time, "a Letter-makers founding House" in the Colonies. Weyman completed nine sheets, or as far as the 7.4th page, when he died bankrupt. The work passed then (1771) into the hands of Hugh Gaine, when 400 or 500 copies, it is said, were printed.
RECTORS OF ST. PETER'S CHURCH, ALBANY. 1153
V. Rev. THOMAS BROWN, B. A. of St. Albans Hall, was the only child of the Rev. G. Brown, of Oxford, Eng. He was or- dained Deacon by the Bishop of London 23d Sept., 1751. He came to America some time after it is supposed with the 27th Reg't, of which he was chaplain, and married Martina Hogan, of Albany, on 24 Ang., 1761. He served with his Reg't at the reduction of Martinico in Feb., 1762, and having returned to England, received the order of priesthood, and was commissioned missionary to N. America, by the Bishop of Lon- don, 8th of July, 1764. He succeeded the Rev. Mr. Ogilvie, as pastor of St. Peter's, and served the church until 1768. He then moved to the south, and was appointed, 30 May 1772, rector of Dorchester, Maryland. He died 2d May, 1784, aged 49 years, leaving a wife and seven children; the survivor of these, a daughter, is still living in Albany. She has portraits of her father, grand father and grand mother, in good preservation.
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