USA > New York > The natural, statistical, and civil history of the state of New-York, v. 1 > Part 10
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Adgate's Falls are on the South fork. Just below the falls . there is a narrow ravine. Its sides are composed of rocks which rise abruptly where the public road passes-the width is seventy feet, and the depth to the water, about ninety. . -
'The Boquet enters Lake Champlain at Willsborough, in the county of Essex. This river is also formed by the coalition of two forks, the West and the South, which meet five or six miles above its mouth. Neither is over twenty-five miles in length. Boats ascend about two miles. Its course is wholly in Essex.
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The next stream that calls our attention is the outlet of Lake George. It is only three or four miles long. Its entrance is at Ticonderoga, in the southeasterly corner of the county of Essex. In this short distance its bed has a depression of one hundred aud fifty-seven feet.
Wood creek, of Lake Champlain, enters at what is called the head of the lake. Its source is in French Pond in the town of Queensbury, in the county of Warren, about three miles south- east of the head of Lake George. It flows southeasterly three or four miles, then northeasterly to near Fort Ann; and lastly, north northeasterly to its mouth. Its length, by its windings, is about twenty-five miles.
Pawlet river, which about equals it in size, joins it near its mouth. This stream rises in the town of Danby, in the State of Vermont. Its direction is northwesterly. The courses of Wood creek and Pawlet river are mostly in the county of Washington.
The Northern canal runs along Wood creek, and its southern branch, from White Hall, about eighteen miles.
Poultney river, sometimes denominated the East branch of Wood creek, likewise rises in Vermont, and after a serpentine direction of more than thirty miles, unites just below White Hall. 1
Lake Cliamplain, from the mouths of Wood creek and Poult- ney river, to Ticonderoga, is a mere strait. Nothing but the depth of water, and two small bays, called East and South bays, could ever have induced persons to dignify this part with the name of lake. In general its breadth does not greatly surpass that of a moderately sized river. To call it a river, to the vicinity of Ticonderoga, would not, in our opinion. be a per- version of terms.
The surface of Lake Champlain, at the mouth of Wood creek, is eiglity-six feet higher than the tide water at Troy.
Sec Eddy's, Lay's and Vunce's Maps, as to the courses and distances of our rivers, &c. The Maps of Eddy and Lay com- prehend not only this State, but portions of the neighbouring States.
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The St. Lawrence,* which washes the northwest side of this State, from the outlet of Lake Ontario, to latitude forty-five, a distance of one hundred and nine miles, for several considera- tions, merits our attention; but it would be a departure were we to enter into an ample description : we shall, therefore, con- fine our remarks mostly to it and its continuations, the Niagara, Detroit, and St. Clair, or Huron rivers. The commercial channels which they open, either directly or indirectly, to the people of this State, seem to require this.
The St. Lawrence issues out of the northeastern corner of Lake Ontario in two branches, and runs northeastwardly about six hundred and eighty miles, where it spreads into the Gulf of St. Lawrence. In its way it receives on its right bank Oswe- gatchie, Grass, Racket, St. Regis, Salmon, Trout and Chat- eaugua rivers, from this State ; the Sorell, or Richelieu, which · is common to this State and Vermont; St. Francis, from the latter State, and Chaudiere, from the State of Maine ; and on its left Outawas, Masquinonge, St. Maurice, Seguenai, Black river, &c.
The St. Lawrence is a large, broad, deep river, embracing a multitude of islands, and opening a water communication be- tween the Atlantic Ocean and the great lakes. Its navigation may be noted in the following manner :- first, ships of all de- scriptions ascend it to Quebec, three hundred and twenty miles- second, ships of five or six hundred tons burthen ascend to Montreal, one hundred and seventy miles farther-third, boats, and other craft, not drawing over seven or eight feet of water, proceed about forty miles higher, where rapids intervene- fourth, boats drawing two and a-half or three feet of water, ad- vance to Ogdensburg, about ninety miles-fifth, sloops and schooners make their way from this place up to the lake, sixty miles. Montreal is at the head of ship navigation, and Ogdens- burg at the foot of lake navigation. The tide reaches Trois Riviers, ninety miles above Quebec.
. The Agoneaseah called this river Canawage, also Cadaraqui.,
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The St. Lawrence is computed to be one hundred and five miles broad between Cape Rosiere and the Labrador shore, where it opens into the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Its width be- tween Quebec and Montreal, and between the latter place and the Grand Sault, is from a mile and a-half, to four, and even twelve, as at St. Peter's, St. Louis, and Francis lakes.
The principal rapids are Grand Sault, Rapid Plat, Point Iroquois and Grand Gallop, or Gallop Islands-we shall notice some of the obstructions.
The first occurs three miles and three quarters above the mouth of St. Regis-here, for a distance of four hundred and forty yards, the velocity of the current is about five miles an hour.
The second is the strait separating Massena Point, from the head of Cornwall, a distance of eight hundred yards-the cur- rent runs through this strait at the rate of eight miles an hour.
The third begins about a mile and a-half higher up, and con- sists of a series of rapids, denominated the Long Sault.
The fourth begins at Point Ellicot, nine miles and three quarters above St. Regis, and extends upwardly about one mile; in this distance the water rushes through at the rate of cleven miles an hour.
The fifth are three miles and a quarter above the preceding, and are called La Grand Chute, and La Petit Chute-the latter is on the southeastern side of the river. These rapids are about eight hundred and ninety yards long ; the water shoots through at the rate of sixteen miles and a-half an hour. These are con- sidered the most difficult for boats.
The sixth rapid is at Store's Point-it is inconsiderable.
The seventh is Pepper Point, about seventeen miles above St. Regis-it is short, but the current is very swift.
The eighth is Rapid Plat, thirty-seven miles above St. Regis. It is strong.
The ninth is rapid au Gallop, a little higher up-it has great velocity, and is about two hundred and fifty yards long.
To ascend the foregoing, the boats have to be towed up.
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Those employed between Montreal and Ogdensburg common- ly carry thirty tous.
From Ogdensburg to Montreal the St. Lawrence consists of reaches of slack water and rapids. Lake St. Louis, on the southwest side of the island of Montreal, is sixteen miles in length, and from two to seven in breadth. Lake St. Francis begins at the mouth of Grass river, and ends a little above the Cedars, being about thirty eight miles long, and from two to six broad.
Between Ogdensburg and Lake Ontario the breadth fluctu- ates between one and eleven miles. The current, in this part of the river, is gentle.
The cluster of islands, denominated the Thousand Islands, is in this part of the river-some of these have extent, richness and beauty ; while others are small, or consist of little else than piles of rocks.
The banks of the St. Lawrence, from Lake Ontario to Que- bec, are in general low, and in some places swampy and marshy. No mountains occur in the vicinity of the river-the descent, from Lake Ontario to Three River Point, ninety miles below Montreal, is estimated at 231 feet-of this 200 feet are between Montreal and Lake Ontario.
The St. Lawrence, from its issue to its coalescence with Outawas, is a very uniform stream .. Its volume of water is nearly the same during the year. Rains, the melting of the snow, and floods occasion very inconsiderable rises. The greatest elevation is about the last of June, and the greatest de- pression about the last of February. The elevation and de- pression are very gradual, the one commencing in March and the other in July. Apart from the rise and fall, which may be called annual, because they occur every year ; there are other rises and falls which are occasioned by the winds-westerly and southwesterly winds drive the waters of Lake Ontario towards the east end, and about its drain, where they are heaped, and forced out in greater quantities-east and northeast winds have an opposite tendency. These drive them westwardly, and heap them about the west end, and occasion a lowering at the drain. .
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These rises and falls vary from one to three feet or more, ac-' cording to the strength, rapidity, and continuance of the wind. 'The southwest and northeast cause the greatest elevations and depressions.
Should the question be asked, why the St. Lawrence does not rise and fall like other rivers : we answer, first, because the waters which supply it have to be diffused over the surfaces of five vast lakes before they can reach this river ; second, because the surfaces have to be elevated before the rise can take effect ; and third, because the waters, after they are diffused, drain off slowly, depressing all the surfaces at the same time. The Nia- gara, Detroit and Huron present the same phenomena in regard to rises and falls. Streams proceeding from lakes have much uniformity, especially if the lakes have considerable surfaces.
T'he Niagara issues out of the northeastern extremity of Lake Erie, at Black Rock, and runs northerly thirty-five miles, where it expands into Lake Ontario-in its way it forms several beau- ti ul islands, and the celebrated falls of the same name-its . Jeugth and descent, according to recent surveys, are as follow :-- first, from Lake Erie to the head of the rapids, above the falls, the distance is twenty miles, and the descent fifteen feet- second, from the head of the rapids to the falls the distance is nearly a mile, and the descent fifty-one feet-third, the falls are 150 feet on the Canada side, and 164 on the New-York side -- fourth, the distance to Lewistown, at the foot of the steep or heights, is seven miles, and the descent 104 feet-fifth, the dis- tance from thence to the mouth of the river, is seven miles, and the descent two feet. 'T'he total descent is about 330 feet.
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The banks from Black Rock to the falls are low, seldom exceeding eight or ten feet in height. The country, on all sides, exhibits an almost uniform plain, on which there is no bill to arrest the eye. About two miles above the falls the ancient banks are seen at a little distance from the present-they extend down the stream, and end at the chasm below the falls. They attain an elevation of seventy or eighty feet over against the cataracts, but this apparent elevation is simply the depression of the bed of the stream, in the last two miles. The descent of the
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rapids is fifty-one fect, or according to some accounts, fifty-nine. From the falls to Lewistown, the banks are from 180 to 300 feet, of nearly perpendicular elevation, the plain still continuing to the brink of the steep at the latter place. Below Lewistown the banks are from twenty to thirty feet high.
The bed and banks of the Niagara are composed mostly of limestone, down to the falls-in many places the rock is co- vered with soil. Between the falls and Lewistown, the banks consist of limestone, slate and sandstone, lying upon each other in the order we have named them-the course of the river, ori- ginally, was across two plains, the upper and the lower-but owing to the wearing away of the rocks, it has sunk from 209 to 280 feet on the upper plain, and reaches the lower at its base.
The rapidity of the current at the issue, and for a mile and a- half below, upon an average, exceeds four miles an hour. In some part of this distance the velocity of the stream is at the rate of from six to seven miles an hour, in ordinary times-from the foot of this rapid, to near the head of the rapids above the falls, the current does not average two miles and a-half an hour. Between the falls and Lewistown, it runs at the rate of twelve miles-below the latter place, it is about three miles an hour.
Lake vessels now descend to Chippeway, and come up to Lewistown.
The annual rise is about three feet, and the depression about the same.
Niagara embosoms Squaw, Strawberry, Grand, Rattle Snake, Tonnawanta, Cayuga, Gill, Navy and Goat Islands. The first is at the lower end of the harbour of Black Rock, the second is between the latter and Grand Island, the fourth is between the latter and this State, the fifth is opposite the mouth of Tonna- wanta creek, the sixth and seventh are between the latter creek and the rapids, above the falls, the eighth is near the lower end of Grand Island, and belongs to Upper Canada-Goat Island is at the falls ..
Grand Island is twelve miles in length, and contains about 17,000 acres of land.
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'Tonnawanta creek, from this State and Chippeway, from Upper Canada, fall into the Niagara. The entrance of the former is opposite to Grand Island, and of the latter opposite to Navy Island.
Detroit river commences at the southwest extremity of Lake St. Clair, and running six miles and an half, nearly in a south- west direction, passes the city of Detroit, in a channel three- fourths of a mile wide. Opposite to Detroit the river is narrower than it is in any other part of its course. Below the city the river winds three and an half miles southwest, to the river Rouge ; thence, turning to the south, it gradually widens, and in a distance of eighteen miles. disembogues into Lake Erie, by a mouth five miles broad. Vessels drawing seven or cight feet of water, pass without difficulty up the river into Lake St. Clair. It is a tranquil stream, with low banks-its course is through a champaign country-it embosoms several fine islands, such as Celeron, Gros, Bois Blanc, Grand, Petit, Turkey, Hog and Peach islands -- these greatly enhance its beauty.
St. Clair river issues out of the southeast corner of Lake Hu- ron, and flowing nearly south, twenty-six miles, opens by several mouths into Lake St. Clair, forming a kind of delta. It is, with the exception of the rapids at Fort Gratiot, a placid stream. Its usual breadth is about three quarters of a mile. The volume of water, in this river, as well as that in the Detroit, is pretty uniform, and its depth sufficient for such vessels as navigate the lakes. Lake St. Clair, which receives St. Clair river, and dis- charges Detroit, lies between the mouth of the former, and the issue or head of the latter.
The strait or issue of Lake Michigan, which is abont fifteen miles in length, communicates with Lake Huron at Mackinaw- it is also navigable for lake vessels.
St. Mary's river, which connects lakes Huron and Superior, is about forty-five miles in length, by its sinuous course-its navigation for vessels is obstructed by two rapids ; the first, or · lower, called Nebish's rapid, has a descent of four feet ; the second, called Sault de St. Mary's, has a descent of nineteen
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feet. These, however, are so gradual that boats drawing seve- ral feet of water. ascend them.
The basin of the St. Lawrence extends from the mouth of the river to the head waters of Lake Superior, a distance of nearly 1,500 miles, in a direct line, with a mean width of nearly 400 miles, and contains about 500,000 square miles. In thi- esti- mate we included the five greatest lakes, to wit, Ontario, Erie, Huron, Michigan and Superior.
Lake Ontario contains about 6,400 square miles, Erie about S,500, Huron about 20,000, Michigan about 15,000, and Superior about 30,000. Ontario is elevated about 240 feet above the ocean-Erie about 575, Huron 600, Michigan rather more, and Superior 641.
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CHAPTER VI.
LAKES, SEAS AND BAYS.
LAKE George is about thirty-four miles in length from south to north, and from one to four in breadth from east to west. It is a beautiful expanse of water. The Palmertown mountain is on the east side, and the Kayaderosseras on the west. These nearly environ it, and have elevations of from 700 to 1,200 feet above the surface of the ocean. Its head is only nine miles from Glen's Falls, on the Hudson, and its foot three from Ti- conderoga, on Lake Champlain. It is situated in the counties of Washington, Warren and Essex, mostly, however, in the two former. Its surface is 243 feet above tide water at Troy, on the Hudson, and 157 above the surface of Lake Champlain. Its shores are bold and rocky. It contains upwards of three hundred islands. Many, however, are merely heaps of rocks. At its north end it communicates with Lake Champlain by a narrow strait. There are three falls besides rapids on the strait. Its waters teem with salmon trout, bass, and other delicious fish. In some places it is sixty fathoms deep.
The scenery around Lake George is exceedingly magnifi- cent and picturesque. One of the best views of this lake and its environs, is from the high grounds near its head. Here the eye takes in about fourteen miles of its extent, together with many islands.
The aborigines called it " Can-i-de-ri-oit," that is, tail of the lake. Forts William, Henry and George, now in ruins, were at its head.
French Pond, in the town of Queensbury, in the county of Warren, is three miles long, and upwards of a mile broad. Wood creek rises in it.
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Schroon lake, situated in a valley, nine or ten miles west of Lake George, is eight or nine miles in length, and one in breadth, stretching nearly from north to south. The river of the same name enters its north end, and passes out at its south. It is a fine basin of limpid water, and teems with fish. Kaya- derosseras mountain lies between it and Lake George. The division line between Essex and Warren crosses it from east to west, nearly midway.
Loon lake, in the town of Chester, in the county of Warren, is two miles in length, and upwards of one in breadth. Its waters pass into Schroon river.
· Friend's lake is in the same town, and is two miles long and half a mile wide.
" Lake Paradox, in the town of Schroon, in the county of Essex, is about five miles long, and falls into Schroon river.
Brant lake is about as long, and passes" into Schroon river. It is in the county of Warren.
Lake Saranack, out of which the river of that name issues, is in the town of Keen, in the northwestern part of the county of Essex. It is four or five miles long and two broad, and environed by mountains.
Lake Placid, in the same town, contains about 1,700 acres. .
Loon lake, in the uninhabited wilds of the county of Frank- lin, situated two or three miles northwesterly from Lake Sara- nack, is about seven miles in length, and from one to two in breadth. Its outlet opens into the Saranack.
Tupper's lake, situated in the southern part of the county of St. Lawrence, is, five or six miles long and one or two broad. Its outlet falls into the river Racket.
Cranbury lake, about fourteen miles west of Tupper's lake, is five or six miles long and one or two broad. Oswegatchie river passes through it.
Lake Racket, out of which Racket river issues, is eight or nine miles long, and from two to four broad. It is in the northwestern part of the county of Hamilton.
Hamilton lake, situated a few miles northeasterly of the latter, is ten or eleven miles long, and one or two broad. The Racket passes through it.
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Pezeeko, a small lake in the town of Wells, in the same county, is five or six miles in circumference. It derived its name from an Indian who resided on its shores.
Lake Pleasant is also in the same county. It is three or four miles long, and one broad. Its drain enters Sacondaga river. It is about seven miles east of Pezeeko.
Caroga lake is about three miles in length. Caroga creek has its source in it. It is seven miles northwest of the village of Johnstown, in the county of Montgomery.
The lakes and ponds in the northern primitive tract, besides those enumerated, are very numerous and vary exceedingly in size. Some are eleven or twelve miles in length, and from one to four in breadth, while others scarcely contain one hundred acres. They occupy valleys and other low situations, and are disseminated over the whole country." In some parts the num- bers are such that twenty may be seen from a single mountain or eminence. All these lakes and ponds communicate directly or indirectly with the Hudson and St. Lawrence, and with lakes Ontario and Champlain. Their waters are generally pure and limpid, and abound with salmon trout, trout, and other excellent fish. The salmon trout, in some of these lakes, weigh from three to thirty pounds. Hitherto, owing to the difficulty of access to these collections of water, the fish have not been much disturbed by anglers.
Saratoga lake, in the county of Saratoga, is eight miles long, and from two to three broad, stretching from south to north. It lies about eight miles west of Hudson's river, with which it communicates by means of Fish creek, its drain. There is a fine view of this lake, and the surrounding country, from the summit of Snake Hill, lying on its eastern shore. Nearly two- thirds of the borders of this lake are swampy and marshy.
Kayaderosseras creek opens into Saratoga lake, on the west side, not far from its outlet. There is considerable variety of fish in this lake. Before Hudson's river and Fish creek were obstructed with dams-great numbers of herring used to come annually into it. Its rise in the spring, is three or four feet.
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Owl Pond, in the same county, about four miles southeasterly of Saratoga Springs, is two or three miles long. Its drain enters Kayaderosseras creek.
Ballston lake, in the towns of Ballston and Malta, in the same county, is nearly four miles in length, and about a quarter of a mile in breadth. Its drain enters Round lake. The adjacent country has a gently waving. surface, and is highly beautiful. -
Round lake is in the town of Malta, a few miles eastwardly of Ballston. Its circuit is about four miles. Its drain leads into the Hudson. The surface of the contiguous country is diversified with many hillocks which seem to have been tossed up by conflicting masses of water.
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Big Pond is in the town of Argyle, Washington county. Its extent from northeast to southwest is three miles, and its breadth, in an opposite direction, one. Its outlet passes into Hudson's river.
· Sand lake is one mile long. It is in the town of the same name, in Ransellaer county. Other ponds communicate with it.
Whiting's Pond, in the eastern part of Canaan, Columbia county, has a circuit of five miles. Its issue flows into the stream formed by Lebanon Pool, and thence into Kinderhook creek. At the north end of this pond, there is a marsh which has abundance of calcareous marl.
Fish Pond, on the east line of the town of Kinderhook, Co- lumbia county, is four miles in circumference.
Charlotte, Chalk, Round, Indian and Great Pond, are in the county of Dutchess. These severally, contain about 300 acres.
Crum Pond, in Putnam county, is three miles long and one broad.
Mahopack Pond, in the same county, is about three miles round.
Peach Pond is two miles long, and one broad.
Rye Pond is in Westchester, and gives origin to the little river Bronx.
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Ronconcoma Pond is in the town of Brookhaven, Suffolk county, Long Island. It comprises a circuit of three miles. It is girt about by a beach of white sand. Its waters are pla- cid. .
White lake is situated in the town of Bethel, Sullivan county. Its length and breadth are severally one mile.
Black lake and Great lake, two small collections of water, are situated in the same county.
Lake Maria, in the town of Duanesbush, in the county of Sche- nectady, is three miles in compass. Its situation is commanding. On one side the spectator has a view of the lofty Kaatskill, and on the other, of the Green mountains, while the intervening spaces lie as it were rolled out beneath his feet.
Lake Maria is on Flint Hill, an elongation of that branch of the Kaatskill, which is on the east side of Schoharie creek, and which we have called Kanjearagore.
Cromhorn Pond is in the town of Maryland, in the county of Otsego. Its circumference is three miles. It is on Cromhorn mountain, and is one of the most elevated expanses of water in the State. It is environed with thick dark shady groves which communicate a sombre to its crystal waters.
Otsego lake, a delightsome expanse of water, is situated in the county of the same name, at the northern extremity of the basin of the Susquehannah, between high hills. It is nine miles in length, from north to south, and from one to three miles in breadth, from east to west. Its surface is 1,197 feet higher than the surface of the Atlantic Ocean. The hill or mountain sce- nery is beautiful. Otsego lake gives origin to the Susquehan- nah river. . It is replenished with water by several small streams and some springs. , Bass, salmon trout, pike, pickerel, sun fish, &c. inhabit its transparent waters. The bass, in rich- ness and delicacy of flavor, surpass all other fresh water fish in the State. Before the course of the Susquehannah was inter- rupted by mill-dams, shad and herring used to make their way up into this lake. Otsago is the Agoneasean name.
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