USA > New York > The natural, statistical, and civil history of the state of New-York, v. 1 > Part 2
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136
Resolution of Judge Foreman, in 1808, and proceedings thereon 136, 7
First survey by Mr. Geddes 137
Resolution of Judge Platt in 1810 138
Commissioners appointed
138
Second survey by Mr. Geddes
138
Report of the Commissioners in 1811 and legislative pro- ceedings thereon 138, 9
Second report of the Commissioners in 1812
139
The war occasions an interruption
140
Fourth report in March, 1816
140
Memorial to the Legislature to pass a law for constructing
the Erie Canal
140
1
Motion of Mr. Rutsen Van Rensselaer-passage of the law 141 ,
Appropriations made March, 1817
1
142, 3
Commencement of the Erie Canal, July 4, 1817
143
Middle section completed October 1819
143
. CONTENTS. XIX
Pages.
Monies voted to carry on the works
144
Western section begun in 1819
144
Eastern section begun in 1820
144
Erie Canal finished October, 1825
145
Commissioners and Engineers 145,6
Description of the Erie Canal 146, 7, 8, 9, 50, 1, 2, 3 The Locks, Aqueducts, Embankments, Dams, &c. 153, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9
Branch Canals and Feeders 159, 60, 1
Harbour of Black Rock 161, 2,3
Albany Basin :. ' 163
Recapitulation 163, 4
Observations on the country along the Erie Canal 164,
5, 6, 7,8
Champlain Canal 168, 9, 70, 1
Period of Navigation on the Erie Canal, transportation, &c. 171, 2, 3
Power and duties of the Commissioners 173, 4
Oswego Canal
174, 5
Seneca Canal 175
Hudson and Delaware Canal
176, 7
Morris Canal
177, 8
Navigation of the Hudson, Canals, and waters connected with it . . 178, 9,80, 1,2
Navigation of the Susquehannah, &c. 182, 3, 4, 5
Canandaigua Lake and outlet 185
Navigation of the Alleghany River
185,6
Navigation of the St. Lawrence, &c.
187, 8
Black River proposed Canal · 188, 9
Rail Roads 190, 1
Ohio Canal
192
Welland Canal
192, 3
CHAPTER VIII.
Falls.
i
Cohoes Falls and Falls on East Canada Creek
194, 5
p
XX
CONTENTS.
Pages.
Little Falls 195,6
Trenton Falls 197, 8, 9, 200, 1, 2, 3 Great Falls on the Hudson, Glen's and Baker's Falls 203, 4 Falls on Batten Kill, Poeston Kill and Hoosack River 205 Adgate's Falls . 205
Falls on Black and Salmon Rivers
206, 7
Falls of Ithaca 208
Genesee Falls 209, 10, 11, 12
Falls of Niagara 212, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17
CHAPTER IX.
Springs.
Mineral Springs at Saratoga. Congress, Columbian, Wash- ington, Hamilton, Flat Rock, High Rock, President, Taylors and Ellis Springs 218, 19, 20, 21, 22 Ballston Springs: 222, 23
Mineral Spring at New Lebanon 224
Sulphur Spring at Richfield, Otsego County 224
do. do. . Fort. Miller and Greenbush 225
do. . do .. in Saratoga .
225, 6
Nitrogen Spring (Hoosack) 227
Burning Spring at the Osquake 227, 8 do. do. in Ontario and Erie Counties 228,9
Sulphur Springs in Phelps, Ontario County 229, 30, 31 .
Oil Spring at Olean, Cattaraugus County 231, 32
do. do. Erie County 232
Salt Springs-remarks 233, 34, 35
do. do. of Onondaga 235, 36,37
do. do. of Montezuma and Galen 237, 38
do. do. of Monroe and Orleans Counties 238, 39
Remarks 239, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45
CHAPTER X.
Changes in West Canada Creek 246, 7, 8, 9, 50, 1
do. in Poultney River 251,2
Falling down of the hill side at Herkimer
252, 3
1
CONTENTS. XXI
Fages.
Upper Valley of the Mohawk 253, 4
Ridge Road . . 254, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 60
Inland Seas and Lakes 260, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 70
Split Rock
.270
Subterraneous stream in Schoharie County, : 270
271
Chyle in Springfield, Otsego County
Caves in Jefferson County, &c.
271, 2, 3
Stone Bridge Creek
273
Natural Canal
274
Petrifactions at the Osquake, &c.
274, 5, 6, 7, 8
Observations on Petrifactions,
278, 9,280
CHAPTER XI.
Geology.
First class of Rocks 281
Northern Primitive District-its boundaries and ex-
tent
281, 2, 3, 4, 5
Granite, the fundamental Rock
285, 6, 7
Imbedded Minerals 287, 8
Gneiss
288, 9.290
Mica Slate, Talc, Steatite,, &c.
291
Ilornblende
292, 3
Second Primitive District-Granite fundamental . Rock 293, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9. 300
Palisadoe Rocks on the Hudson 300, 1 Nyack Hills 301 ·
Structure of Long Island 302, 3 Primitive Clay Slate 303 Second class of Rocks.
1
Transition Clay Slate 304, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9. 810, 11, 12
Grey Wacke Slate 312, 13, 14, 15
Hard Pan
315
Imbedded Minerals and Organic remains . 315, 16, 17 Secondary Slate 317, 18, 19
Shale
320, 21
1
XXII
CONTENTS.
" , Pages.
Third class of Rocks.
Sandstone 321, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26
Limestone 327, 28, 29, 330, 331, 32, 33
Marble 333, 34
Hornestone, Calcareous sandstone, &c. 334, 35
Limestone (continued) 336, 37, 38, 39, 340
Subordinate Rocks
340, 41, 42 i
Fresh Water Limestone
343, 44
Gypsum
344, 45, 46, 47, 48 348
Peat
349, 50
Iron Ore
350, 51, 52, 53
Manganese and other metals 353, 54, 55 Soils 356, 57, 58
General remarks 358, 59. 360, 61, 62
CHAPTER XII.
Climate.
General observations 363, 64, 65, 66, 67, 68, 69, 370, 71,
72, 73, 74, 75, 76, 77
Dews 378
Rain 378
·· Difference in vegetation 378, 79 Improved and unimproved lands 379, 380
Observations in relation to the climate of the Mohawk
country, &c. 380, 81, 82, 83, 84, 85, 86, 87, 88, 89, 390, 91, 92, 93, 94, 95, 96, 97 -
Climate of the Mohawk country .
397, 98
Conclusion 398, 99, 400, 1,2
Climate of Long Island 403, 4
Table by Dr. T. R. Beck 404
CHAPTER XIII.
Winds.
405
Northwest wind 405, 6, 7, 8
North wind . .
408, 9, 10
.
.
N
Marls
CONTENTS. XXIII
Northeast wind East wind Southeast wind South wind Southwest wind West wind
Thunder
Meteors
416, 17, 18, 19 419, 20, 21, 22, 23 423 . 423, 24, 25 425, 26, 27, 28, 29
CHAPTER XIV. 1
Zoology.
Introductory remarks 430, 31, 32, 33
Tables-Class I
433, 34, 35, 36
Class II
436, 37, 38, 39, 440 44] ·
Class IV
441, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46
Quadrupeds-Moose 446, 47, 48 448, 49
. Elk and Deer
. Panther 450
Lynx, Kincajou and Wild Cat 451, 52
Bear 452, 53
Wolverene and Raccoon
453, 54
Wolf 454, 55
Foxes 455, 56
Weasel, Ermine and Martin
456, 57
Sable and Skunk. 458, 59
Otter 459, 60
Mink and Hedgehog
460, 61, 62
Moles
462
Beaver
Muskrat
462, 63, 64, 65, 66 467, 6S 46S
Squirrels
469, 70, 71
Rat 471
Woodchuck
472
Bat
472, 73
Rabbit and Hare
Pages. . - 410, 11, 12 413, 14, 15 415, 16
Class III
XXIV
CONTENTS.
Pages.
Mastodon
473, 74, 75, 76, 77
Birds-Eagles
477, 78
Hawks 479, 80
Owls
480, 81, 82, 83
Raven and Crow 483
Jay and Woodpeckers 484, 85, 86, 87
Kingfisher, Kingbird, Hangbird, Golden Robin
488
Wild Turkey, Patridge and Quail 488, 89,,90
Larks, Robbin, Thrush 490, 91, 92 492, 93
Black Birds
Swallows 493, 94, 95
Pigeon and Dove 495, 96
Snowbird, Yellowbird, Sparrow 496,97
Wren, Catbird, Redbird 497, 98
Whipporwell and Night Hawk 499
Stork, Heron, Bittern, Snipe 499, 500
Swan, Wild Goose and Brent Goose
500, 1, 2
Eider Duck, Scaup Duck, Golden Eye, Shell Drake, Wild Duck, Wood Duck 502, 3, 4
Loon, Gulls, and water Hen 505, 6, 7
Mud and River Turtles 507, 8,9
Frogs, Toads and Lizards
509, 10, 11, 12, 13
Serpents
513, 14, 15, 16, 17
Fish 517, 18, 19, 20
CHAPTER XV.
Trees, Shrubs, Plants, &c.
List of Indigenous Trees, &c. 521, 22, 23, 24
€ Esculent Plants 524, 25
Medicinal Plants. 525, 26, 27
Alimentary Herbs, or Plants 527, 28, 29
Exotic Trees, bearing fruit 530
Cultivated Grasses 531
Indigenous Grasses, uncultivated
·
532
Remarks on some of the Forest Trees 532, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39.
.
THE
1
HISTORY
OF THE
STATE OF NEW-YORK.
CHAPTER I.
SITUATION, EXTENT, AND SUPERFICES.
THE State of New-York is situated between thirty-nine de- grees and forty-five minutes, and forty-five degrees of north latitude ; and between five degrees and forty-seven minutes of west longitude ; and two degrees and ten minutes of east longi- tude, from the meridian of the City of New-York. Its greatest length from east to west, exclusive of Long Island, is three hundred and eighteen miles; and its greatest breadth, from north to south, three hundred and six miles. The length and breadth vary exceedingly, the outlines of the State being very irregular. The length in the north and south, and the breadth in the west, are very inconsiderable. From a computation of the square miles in each county, we have estimated the State to contain 45,530 square miles, exclusive of water.
It is bounded on the east by Vermont, Massachusetts and Connecticut -; on the south by the Atlantic Ocean, and the States of New Jersey and Pennsylvania; on the west by a part of the latter State, called the Triangle, and part of Lake Erie, and the river Niagara ; on the northwest by Lake On- tario, and the river St. Lawrence, as far as latitude forty-five ; and on the north by the Province of Lower Canada. On the west side of Hudson's river, from its mouth to the latitude of forty-one, lies the State of New Jersey.
VOI .. I.
1
2
HISTORY OF THE
ASPECT.
The State of New-York exhibits great diversity of aspect. In some parts, plains of great beauty and fertility extend as far as the eye can reach, irrigated by numerous and copious streams: in others, there are gently ascending hills and declining vales. Some tracts abound with picturesque and romantic prospects, such as rugged hills, lofty mountains, craggy rocks, deep val- . lies, narrow winding dells, headlong torrents, and abrupt cat- aracts. Every where bounteous nature presents us with new and varied scenes, which partake either of the beautiful, pictur- esque, or romantic kinds, with soils as varied' as the scenes themselves. Sometimes she presents them all in the same view. We shall first describe the mountains, hills, champaigns, plains, vales and valleys, and afterwards attend to its rivers, creeks, lakes, ponds, seas, bays, falls, canals, &c.
MOUNTAINS.
There are two extensive tracts of mountainous countries in the State of New-York : the one is in the north, and the other is towards, and at the south, and along the borders of New England. They are in some measure separated by the valley of the Mohawk. Fall Hill, according to some, connects them, but the connection is very faint.
That in the north, which we have called the Sacondaga tract, commences in the Province of Lower Canada, a little north of latitude forty-five, and extends southwestwardly to the Mohawk river and its vicinity, and is upwards of one hundred and forty miles in length, and nearly one hundred and twenty-five in breadth, where broadest. Its breadth and length, however, vary greatly. At latitude forty-five. which is the line between this State and Lower Canada, it is not twenty miles broad, while at latitude forty-three and a-half, it exceeds one hundred miles. Its length also varies very much. We shall
3
.
· STATE OF NEW-YORK.
endeavour to describe its exteriors; but from the uncultivated state of the country, we shall not be able to arrive at results so accurate as we could desire. On the east it is bounded by the hilly tracts of the county of Clinton and by Lake Champlain, and a line drawn from the head of South Bay, on that lake, striking the Hudson between Glen's Falls, and the Great Falls, on that river; on the south by the champaigns and plains of the county of Saratoga, and those of the county of Montgomery, westwardly to Anthony's Nose, which is the ter- mination of Clip Hill, Mayfield mountain, or Clinton mountain, (as we have named it, in order to prevent confusion arising from so many unmeaning and whimsical, names ;) and thence west- wardly in some respects by the valley of the Mohawk, and the hills of the county of Oneida, lying north of that river and Oneida lake; on the west and northwest by the hilly parts of the counties of Oswego, Lewis, and St. Lawrence ; and on the north by the champaigns, or flat country of Lower Canada. It comprises all of the counties of Essex, Warren, and Hamilton, the northern parts of Washington, Saratoga, and Montgomery, the central and northern parts of the county of Herkimer, the northern part of the county of Oneida, the northeastern part of Oswego, a very small part of Jefferson, large portions of Lewis, St. Lawrence, Franklin, and Clinton, embracing eight or nine thousand square miles.
This tract is traversed from northeast to southwest, witlı the exception of the Highlands lying between Black river and the Mohawk river, and Oneida lake, by six principal chains of mountains, which range from northeast to southwest, besides their collaterals, bifurcations, &c.
These ranges or chains are not exactly continuous, like some of those belonging to the Alleghanies, and some other moun- tains ; but consist of detached masses or links, running in lines parallel one with the other, often elevated, occasionally depress- ed, their surfaces displaying summits, sometimes regular, some- times round topped, and now and then denticulated, pyramidal, saddle shaped, &c.
Besides the principal or main chains, and their ramifications,
«
4
HISTORY OF THE
there are multitudes of other mountains, of much less extent, . scattered over the country, which appear either in solitary groups, or insulated masses. These in general have no deter- . minate directions. Of these some have considerable elevation, frequently equalling the main chains ; while others are low, be- ing little else than heaps of rocks based on the general plain, which contains the leading ranges. These, as well as the main chains, display various phantastic forms ; such, for instance, as segments, pyramids, domes, cones, and castles. Of the prin- cipal chains, the two central form the demarcation line be- tween the waters of the Hudson, Sable, and Saranack, which flow on one side, from those of , Black, Oswegatchie, Grass, Racket, St. Regis, Salmon, and Chateaugua rivers, which descend on the other side. The two central chains are from seven to fifteen or twenty miles asunder, and extend parallel nearly or quite to the Mohawk river. A multitude of lakes and ponds are disseminated between them. The sources of the Hudson and Racket, and some of their branches, are in lakes and ponds, lying in the most elevated parts between these chains.
They occupy an extent of forty or fifty miles in length, and from seven to twenty in breadth. From these chains the others decline, on the one hand, towards Lake Ontario and the St. Lawrence ; and on the other, towards Lake Champlain and the basin proper of the Hudson. The whole tract, taken together, exhibits a depression on all sides, which is sometimes gradual and at others abrupt.
To be convinced of these facts, we have only to examine the topography of the country. By this we find that all the other rivers and streams derive their sources from less elevations.
The Schroon and Sacondaga rivers that fall into the Hudson, the East and West Canada creeks that fall into the Mohawk, the Mohawk itself that falls into the Hudson, Salmon and Black rivers that fall into Lake Ontario, the Oswegatchie, 1 Grass, St. Regis, and Chateaugua that fall into the St. Law- rence, and the Chazy, Saranack, Sable and Boquet that fall into Lake Champlain, have their sources in places less elevated.
5
STATE OF NEW-YORK.
In describing the several ranges, we shall commence with the Palmertown on the southeast. This range rises on the western shore of Lake Champlain, in the neighbourhood of Ticonderoga, traverses the northern and northwestern parts of Washington, and the southeastern part of Warren, and then crosses the Hudson into the county of Saratoga, a short dis- tance above Glen's Falls, and soon after sinks to the level of the flat country, in the vicinity of the highly noted Saratoga Springs. It presents an undulating surface, whose summit towers many hundred feet above the plain. Its length is between fifty and sixty miles, and its base is from three to seven miles broad. That part of the range lying between Lakes Champlain and George occupies the whole space between those lakes, forming with its base their shores. Its sides, in some places, are exceed- ingly steep, and in others very precipitous. Between Lakes Champlain and George it often exhibits bare rocky surfaces, and mural walls, of very savage aspect, and dreadful sterility. Its elevation varies considerably. In the north it is from 720 to 1,100 or 1,200 feet in height, and in the south, from 400 to 600.
On the east side of Lake Champlain, and opposite to the preceding, there is another range which deserves to be noticed, although it is not in this State. Its commencement is at or near Mount Independence, a little to the southeast of Ticonderoga. I: extends up the lake to near White Hall, where it bends away to the east, and soon thereafter degenerates into hills. This range, on the Champlain side, is scarcely less rugged and bar- ren than the Palmertown. The narrow bed of Lake Cham- plain separates these mountain ranges. In some places their bases are hardly a stone's throw apart.
The Kayaderosseras range lies from four to seven, or eight miles northwest of the Palmertown range. It also commences on the western shore of Lake Champlain, but farther to the north, and extends southwestwardly into the eastern part of the county of Montgomery, where it gradually subsides. It crosses the southeasterly part of Essex, passes through the easterly part of Warren, and across Saratoga, crossing the Hudson and Sacondaga rivers, a little above their junction. Its termination
------
1
6
HISTORY OF THE
-
-
is in the town of Broadalbin, eleven or twelve miles north of the Mohawk. The base of this mountain is broader than that of the Palmertown, and its elevation proportionably greater. Between Lake George and Schroon river, which flows north- west of it, its height is estimated at from 800 to 1,200 feet ; in Saratoga it is deemed to be from 500 to 700 feet. The Kaya- derosseras often rises very abruptly. Its summit is in general quite irregular and much broken. The length of this mountain range is upwards of seventy miles. Like the Palmertown range it frequently exhibits bare rocks, frightful precipices, and great sterility.
The next range we. have designated the Clinton range, in honor of De Witt Clinton, the late Governor of the State. This range begins, like the preceding, on the western shore of Lake Champlain, in the northeastern corner of the county of Essex, and runs southwestwardly to the Mohawk river, where · it ends at a place called Anthony's Nose, by an abrupt descent. Its length is nearly or quite one hundred and twenty miles. In Essex it is called the Giant of the Valley ; in Montgomery, Mayfield Mountain, Clip Hill, &c. It traverses the middle parts of Essex in an oblique direction, the westerly part of Warren, the southeasterly part of Hamilton, and after entering Mont- gomery, runs diagonally through two-thirds of its central parts. In the county of Essex, about a mile west of the court house, it presents an almost perpendicular front of 1,200 feet above the surface of Lake Champlain, or upwards of 1,300 feet above the level of the ocean. More southierly it is still higher. Its eleva- tion, in the towns of Mayfield and Johnstown, is from 900 to 1,100 feet. It is lower at and near the Mohawk. For the last ten miles of its course it has only one declivity, and that is to the southeast.
The range denominated the Sable, has its origin in the county of Clinton, fifteen or twenty miles west of Lake Champlain, and takes a southwesterly course across the westerly part of Essex, the southeasterly part of Hamilton, and after entering the coun- ty of Montgomery, terminates westwardly of the Clinton range, some miles north of the Mohawk. Its length does not differ
-
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7
STATE OF NEW-YORK.
much from one hundred and thirty miles. Its summit, like the foregoing, is irregular and broken. In the town of Wilmington, in the county of Essex, one of its peaks, called White Face, rises to the height of 2,600 feet. This'range, taken together, is much more elevated than the ranges before noticed. By some it is called Peru, and by others Sable. To prevent confusion, we have given the whole range the latter designation.
The Chateaugua range, which is the longest and highest, commences in the Province of Lower Canada, a little north of latitude forty-five, and pursues a southwesterly course to the Mohawk river, which it crosses at Little Falls, in the county of llerkimer, and soon after becomes lost in the Osquake Hill. It is upwards of one hundred and forty miles in length. In its course, after it has entered this State, it runs through the northwestern part of Clinton, the southeastern and northwestern parts of Franklin and Essex respectively, and thence through Hamilton, dividing it into two nearly equal parts, and then penetrates the county of Herkimer, where it subsides, or is arrested as before stated. The Chazy and Sable pass through it. The Chateaugua mountains or hills, as they are called in the north, rise with considerable abruptness from the flat country of Lower Canada, and soon attain an altitude of 1,000 or 1,200 feet above the ocean. About sixteen miles south of latitude forty-five, they are still higher. Chateaugua lake, which is on these mountains, is about 1,400 feet higher than the ocean. The summit of the range under consideration, however, rises far above the lake. In Hamilton it rises still higher, the most elevated parts being in this county. Thence, southwesterly it declines gradually, so that at Little Falls it is only 712 feet. For several miles before it reaches the latter place, its summit rises but- little above the level of the country through which it passes.
We think we hazard nothing in saying that the country at the base of this mountain, in the county of Hamilton, is from 1,800 to 2,000 feet above the level of the ocean. The extreme sources of West Canada creek and Black river, which are not so high, have elevations of 1,500 or 1,600 feet. We shall have
8
HISTORY OF THE
occasion hereafter to remark, that the summit level at Rem- sen, between Black river and the Erie canal, at Herkimer, is 840 feet above the latter. Now the Erie canal, at this place, is 380 feet above tide water on the Hudson, which would give an actual elevation to the summit, in Remsen, of 1,220. From this summit, the country rises all the way to the sources of those streams, which are from twenty-five to thirty miles. The ascent does not fall short of ten or twelve feet, upon the average, to the mile, which would give the proposed elevation.
There is another range, lying from nine to fifteen miles north- westerly of the Chateaugua, but it has much less extent. The St. Regis, Racket, Grass, &c. which descend into the St. Law- rence and Lake Ontario, pass through it.
West of the latter range are other mountains, which spread over the country as far as the county of Jefferson. There are some also on the side of the St. Lawrence. Most of the streams' that fall into Black river, between Wilna and where it diverges from West Canada creek, are bounded by mountains and hills that descend towards that river.
There are two other ranges, which are connected with the foregoing mountains, that we shall briefly notice. The first is denominated the Highlands of Black river. It extends from near the sources of Black creek, a water of West Canada creek, westwardly and northwestwardly about sixty miles, and occupies, in a measure, the country situated between Black river on one side, and Hassencleaver mountain, and the flat and billy country lying northerly of Oneida lake on the other. Its breadth, at its base, is from eight to twenty miles. West Canada creek, in its way to the Mohawk, descends its southern declivity. The Mo- hawk, Fish creek, Salmon river, Sandy creek, and Deer creek rise in it. Branches accompany all these streams. The altitude of the Highlands of Black river may be set down at from 1,220 to 1,600 feet above the ocean. At Remsen, between Trenton Falls and Black river, the summit level between the waters of that river and the Mohawk, at Herkimer, is $40 feet. In 1825, the Hon. James Geddes, one of the canal engineers, took the levels between the Erie canal and Black river, and found the summit
9
STATE OF NEW-YORK.
to be elevated as above stated. Tug Hill, which crosses the West Canada creek, a little above Treuton Falls, is 300 feet, or more, higher than the level taken by Mr. Geddes. The summit of the Highlands often exhibits a rolling surface of three, four, or more miles, in breadth.
Hassencleaver, in the counties of Herkimer and Oneida, the other range, is about twenty miles in length. It occupies the space between the Highlands and Mohawk river. West Canada creek, after it has descended the Highlands, runs some distance along its back, at its base, and then passes by its termination on the east, and soon after reaches the valley of the Mohawk.' Hassencleaver is eight or nine miles broad at its base, and has an elevation of from 800 to 1,200 feet above the ocean. Its declivities present rolling surfaces. The road from Utica to Trenton, and Martinsburgh, passes over it. There is a fine view of this mountain from Tug Hill, a mile above Trenton Falls-also, from the hills south of the Mohawk river. The highest part, according to an admeasurment made by the Hon. Benjamin Wright, one of the canal engineers, is in the county of Herkimer, opposite to the mouth of Staring's creek, in the town of Schuyler.
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