USA > New York > The natural, statistical, and civil history of the state of New-York, v. 1 > Part 8
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STATE OF NEW-YORK.
occasionally called Cawenisque, or Cawaniska, heads near the sources of the Genesee river, and runs eastwardly almost to the union, where it takes a northeasterly course, and crosses the boundary into this State. The union is a little north of the line. After the union, the united waters receive the name of Tioga river, and pursue a northerly course for seven or eight miles, where the Canisteo comes in from the west. ' Here the Tioga takes a northeasterly direction for three or four miles, when it is augmented by the Conhocton, or Cohocton. Immediately after the receipt of the Conhocton, the Tioga bends around to the southeast, and pursues that direction to its mouth, thirty- five miles.
Troup's creek heads in the southwest corner of the county of Steuben, and takes a northeasterly direction, inclining to the east about thirty miles, and falls into the 'Tioga about a mile above the mouth of the Canisteo.
The Canisteo takes its rise in the eastern part of the county of Alleghany, and flows southeasterly about fifty miles. It tra- verses the greater part of Steuben county. The Canisteo is navigable for boats and arks in spring and fall floods, thirty miles. Its common rises, in freshets, are between seven and eight feet. - Shad and herring used to ascend this river. The flats which border it, are from half a mile to one mile broad.
Canicodeo, Bennet's, Steven's and Tuscarora creeks fall into the Canisteo.
The Conhocton heads in the county of Livingston, between Honeyoe and Hemlock lakes, and runs southeasterly nearly fifty miles in a direct course. It is navigable up to Bath, about twenty-four miles. Mud creek, and other streams, fall into it. The Conhocto'n is a fine river, bordered by rich lands.
Newton, Bush, Wynkoop's, and other creeks fall into the Tioga, below its coalescence with the Conhocton.
We shall take a rapid view of the streams that run into the Susquehannah, in Pennsylvania, below Tioga Point.
Sugar creek enters on the right bank, about nine miles be- low Tioga Point, after an easterly course of about twenty miles.
'Tawanda also enters on the right bank, about five miles be- VOL. I:
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low Sugar creek. Its length is about twenty-five miles, and its general course east northeasterly.
Wyahising enters fifteen or sixteen miles lower down on the left bank ; its length is nearly thirty miles, and its course west southwesterly.
Tunckhannock has its rise near the Great Bend, and flows southerly and southwesterly upwards of thirty miles, and enters twenty-five miles below the Wyahising on the left bank.
Lackawannock river is about forty miles in length, and enters on the same bank about eighteen miles below the Tunck- hannock ; its directions are south and southwest. This river flows through a coal district ; its course, from its source, for many miles, is nearly parallel with the Lackawaxen. Both rivers traverse portions of the same coal formation.
Nescopeck also enters on the same bank about thirty-five miles lower down-its course is about thirty miles.
Fishing creek, which is about as large as the Nescopeck, enters on the right bank about thirteen miles below ; its courses are southeast, southwest, and east-its length is over thirty miles.
.The West branch of Susquehannah unites eighteen or twenty miles below the preceding. It is constituted by the union of two streams, the south and north branches. The former rises near some of the waters of Conemaugh, a main branch of Kish- kemanitas, and takes a northwesterly course, between forty and fifty miles, and then a northeasterly one for thirty or forty miles, where it is met by the latter. The second heads near some of the waters of Cononodaw, one of the chief branches of the Al- leghany, and runs nearly southeasterly about forty miles, where it meets the west fork, which interlocks with Toby's creek. Here it turns and flows nearly in an easterly direction, sixteen miles. to its junction with the south branch.
The West branch, below the junction, pursues, firstly, a northeasterly direction about eleven miles ; secondly, a south- easterly one about sixteen miles ; thirdly, an easterly one for about forty-two miles ; and fourthly. a southerly one for twenty-five or thirty miles. The chief streams that fall into it
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are Bald Eagle, Pine, Lycoming and Loyalsock creeks, all of which deserve the name of rivers. '
The West branch, computing its length by its flexures, does not vary much from two hundred miles ; it is the largest stream that falls into the Susquehannah, its whole course, as well as those of its collaterals, is in a mountainous country. It, and its scattered branches, are boatable in freshets.
Six miles below the mouth of the West branch, Penn creek falls into the Susquehannah on its right bank, after an easterly course of about fifty miles.
Middle creek falls in on the same bank, a little below ; its course is easterly, and its length about twenty-five miles.
Two miles below the mouth of Middle creek, the Mahony enters on the left bank ; it is about thirty miles long, and its general course westerly.
The Juniata discharges itself into the Susquehannah, on its right bank, about twenty-three miles below the Mahony. This river has its source on the eastern declivity of the main ridge of the Alleghany mountains, near the head of Stony creek, a main branch of Conemaugh, and takes an easterly direction for about thirty miles, in a direct line, passing through Bedford, and re- ceiving Danning's creek in its way. Soon after it has left Bed- ford, it turns short and pursues a northwesterly direction for eight miles, then a northwesterly one for about thirty-one miles, where it receives Little Juniata from the west. The latter is about forty miles long. After the reception, it runs southeast- erly about ten miles ; then northeasterly about twenty miles ; and then east southeasterly nearly forty miles, where it is merg- ed in the Susquehannah. The distances are computed in straight lines-it is boatable up to Bedford.
Auchwich and Tuscarora creeks enter on the right bank, below the junction, and are severally about thirty miles long.
The Juniata, by its numerous flexures, is nearly or quite two hundred miles long.
Conedogwinet enters the Susquehannah on its right bank, about ten miles below the mouth of Juniata ; its direction is east northeasterly, about forty-seven miles in a straight line.
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Shippensburg creek, which is almost as large as Conedogwi- net enters on the same side, about five miles lower-its general direction is about east northeast.
Eight miles below the foregoing, Swatara falls in on the left bank, after a southwesterly course of about forty miles.
The Union canal, which unites the waters of the Susquehan- nah with those of the Schuylkill and Delaware rivers, commen- ces at the mouth of this stream.
Conewago discharges itself on the right bank, five miles below Swatara ; it has its rise in the northern part of the State of Maryland-its extent is about forty miles.
Codorus also rises in the State of Maryland, passes through Little York, and enters the right bank seven miles below Co- newago.
Conestoga and Octorara enter on the left bank. The for- mer passes east of the town of Lancaster, and is about forty miles long by its bed-the latter is less.
See Amos Lay's Map of the State of New-York, as to the courses and distances of the Susquehannah, and its tributaries.
The navigation of the Susquehannah, and some of its conflu- ents, may be set down as follows :-
The waters of the Susquehannah, above the Conewago, when the river is low, flow upon an average, at the rate of about two miles an hour, and when swelled and high, about four, but from the head of Conewago Falls, to tide water, sixty or seventy miles, estimating the distance by its meanders, the average ra- pidity of the current is six miles at low water, and about ten or eleven at high ; this being the usual progress of boats and arks descending the river. The annual freshets, suitable for ark navigation, usually occur in the months of February, March, April and May, and in October and November.
Arks and Durham boats are the only vessels used ; the for- mer carry from twenty to seventy tons, and draw from one foot eight inches, to two feet of water; the latter carry from twenty to forty tons, and draw from one to two feet. The arks are . temporary craft, constructed solely for descending. The Durham
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boats are used for ascending as well as descending ; the latter, however, never go below Conewago Falls, because they could not be brought up except by warping.
The principal stream is navigable downwardly from Otsego lake for boats and arks. In the summer, when the river is low, the water between Owago in this State, and Harrisburg in Penn- s ivania, is so clear that the bottom may almost every where b .. seen. From Owago to Nanticoke Falls, eight miles below Withesbarre, its waters glide smoothly along, often sluggish, sometimes accelerated over a gravelly, stony, or rocky bottom.
Nanticoke Falls, as they are denominated, is a strait or sluice, into which the whole stream is collected, and shoots down abont five feet, in a distance of four hundred yards ; these . fails are not dangerous.
Nesropeck, or Berwick Falls, about twelve miles lower down, are similar : the water descends about six feet in three hundred vards. The ascent of these falls or rapids is attended with tnost difficulty in low water.
Mackee's Falls, nineteen miles below Northumberland, make a short rapid-they are easily passed and deemed safe.
Nine miles below Mackee's Falls, begin those ripples called Barger's, ferry's and Girty's. Notch, which continue for nine miles. These ripples are formed by solid reefs of rocks, ex- tending quite across the river ; but with due attention there is no difficulty in passing them, either ap or down.
Seven miles farther down Foster's Falls commence, and six miles lower, Hunter's ; neither present a broken pitch. The stream, at these places, is much accelerated. and the channel, which passes among large masses of rocks that rise above the surface, or approach very near it, is crooked. Accidents rarely occur when boats and arks are passed by skillful pilots.
The descent and ascent of the few ripples from Hunter's Falls to Conewago, are attended with no difficulty or danger.
From Conewago, to tide water, at the embouchure of the river, sixty or seventy miles, is an almost uninterrupted rapid, the descent being about 272 feet. At Conewago Falls the wa- ter descends 19 feet in a quarter of a mile.
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Boats and arks run from Columbia, a little below Conewago Falls, to tide water, in six or seven hours. The bed is narrow, deep, and very crooked. Boats never ascend this part of the river, in consequence of the great velocity of the water. They, however, ascend from Conewago, as far as Oquago, in the county of Broome, sixteen miles above Chenango Point, and Bath, on the Conhocton, in the county of Steuben.
The whole extent of the river, from the head of Conewago Falls to Otsego lake, might be ascended, provided the quantity of water was'sufficient. The distance from Otsego lake to Owago, is one hundred and thirty-three miles, and the descent 400 feet, which is only three fect to the mile. From this point, down the stream, there is always water enough for boat naviga- tion ; but it is otherwise up the stream, since there is a gradual diminution. The navigation of this river is susceptible of vast improvements.
The entire basin of the Susquehannah is estimated to contain upwards of 20,000 square miles, with a population of 700,000 inhabitants. That part of the basin which is within this State, contains nearly six thousand square miles.
The commerce down the Susquehannah is already very con- siderable, and must annually increase with the growing popula- tion of the country.
The waters of the Susquehannah may be connected with the Erie canal and the Ohio river. . A connection with the former would be highly advantageous to our citizens, and those of Pennsylvania. Large quantities of salt, gypsum, &c. would easily find their way into that State, where they might be ex- changed for coal, iron, &c.
There are several coal formations within the basin of the Susquehannah.
That on the Susquehannah proper, according to Mr. Cist, ex- tends in a southwesterly direction, from the upper part of the Lackawannock creek, near the Wayne county line, not far from Broome county, in this State, down the course of that creek, to its junction with the Susquehannah, keeping chiefly on the east side ; leaving the river about eight miles below Wilkesbarre, it
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passes in a southward course on to some branches of the Lehigh, a branch of the Delaware, and also on to the head waters of the Schuylkill ; and thence, after crossing three main branches of the Schuylkill, becomes lost ; a small seam of it only appearing at Peter's mountain, a few miles above Harrisburg, being up- wards of one hundred miles in length, and several miles in breadth. On the height of land the veins of coal are more level than in the Wyoming valley, where the layers dip from the height of 500 feet, at an angle of from ten to thirty degrees towards the river. The coal alternates with shist, micaceous slate, and sand stone, which last is in strata, from 5 to 100 feet thick ; the coal forming veins from 30 to 40 feet deep, though the general thickness is only from 12 to 15 feet. The coal is the kind called anthracite. It is good, and burns without smoke, and without emitting any unpleasant odour, and affords a very intense heat.
This remarkable coal field, according to an account published by Mr. J. Griscom, Professor of Chemistry in Columbia Col- lege, has an average width of three miles, and contains about 300 square miles. The thickness of the contiguous beds, he observes, in several places where the coal has been wrought, exceeds 30 feet ; and it is well known from an example of a sec- tion, of the whole formation, in places where, by the disruption of the waters, the various beds are exposed, that the thickness of the several workable strata exceeds 45 feet; but assuming thirty as the medium thickness, the whole number of cubic yards, within the surface above specified, would be ten thousand millions. The specific gravity is about 1.47. A cubic yard weighs about 2,200 pounds, gross weight : hence, there will be ten thousand , millions of tons weight, after allowing two hundred pounds for waste ; supposing the strata continuous throughout. This, however, is not to be imagined, as the formation is in several places broken by ridges of highland ; but supposing a deduc- tion of one half be made, there will still remain five thousand millions of tons, a quantity sufficient to supply New-York, Phil- adelphia and Baltimore, supposing those cities to contain
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eighty thousand houses, and each house to consume five tons in a year, during a period of 12,500 years.
It appears reasonable, therefore, to infer from data not un- worthy of reliance, that the Wyoming and Lackawannock val- leys contain a body of coal sufficient to supply all the wants of the eastern and middle sections of the United States, for a pe- ' riod which may be considered as indefenite.
The Alleghany, the principal branch of the Ohio, has its sources in the State of Pennsylvania, and is formed by the con- ; fluence of Cononodaw and Owago creeks. The former comes from the south, and the latter from the east, near the first foun- tains of Genesee river. These streams are severally from twenty-five to thirty miles in length at the confluence, a little north of latitude forty-two degrecs. The Alleghany, for so the stream is called after the confluence, takes a northwesterly and westerly course for twenty-seven miles, when it turns, and flows southwesterly to the mouth of French creek, a distance of eighty or ninety miles. From thence, for thirty-eight miles, its course is southeasterly. Here it turns to the right, and rolls southwestwardly to Pittsburg, a distance about forty miles, where it is met by the Monongahela from Virginia. Thence to the Mississippi, the united stream assumes the name of Ohio.
The chief streams that fall into the Alleghany, are Olean, Great Valley, Kinzua, Conewango, Straw, French, Tanung- want, Toby, Sandylick, Pine, Crooked and Buffalo creeks, and Kishkemanitas river.
Olean rises in the northern part of the county of Cattar- argus, and descends southerly about thirty miles, and enters on the right bank.
Great Valley creek enters on the same bank, about sixteen miles below the mouth of Olean, after a course of twenty miles.
Kinzua enters on the left bank, after running a distance of twenty-five miles.
The Conowanga has its source in the northern part of Cat- taraugus, and takes a southerly direction, inclining to the west, into the county of Chatauque, where it is met by the outlet of of Chatauque lake. . After the meeting it flows southerly, cross-
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ing the Pennsylvania boundary, and enters the Alleghany on its right bank. It is about fifty miles long. The meeting of this stream, and the outlet of Chatauque lake, is eighteen miles above its mouth.
Chatauque outlet, after its issue, is joined by Cosdaga out- let. Boats can ascend the Conowengo and the outlets, quite into the lakes, and within seven miles of Lake Erie.
Straw creek takes its rise in the southern part of Chautau- · que county, and enters on the same bank. Its courses are south southeast and east.
French creek, a large branch of the Alleghany, heads in the town of Clymer, in the county of Chatauque, within ten miles of Lake Erie, and runs southwesterly across the northwest angle of Pennsylvania, where it receives Le Beuf. Its course, to its mouth, from this place, is southerly, inclining some to the southeast. It is boatable up to Le Beuf, seventy miles. Its mouth is about one hundred miles above Pittsburg.
Toby creek, another large branch of the Alleghany, flows between ninety and one hundred miles in a southwesterly direc- tion, and enters on the left bank .. Its source is near that of the Cononodaw.
Sandylick has a southwesterly course of about sixty miles. Its entrance is on the left bank, about twenty-four miles below Toby creek.
Pine, or Mahony creek, comes in on the same bank, after a course of upwards of forty miles.
Crooked creek likewise comes in on the same bank, after a course of nearly fifty miles.
The Kishkimanitas is about one hundred miles in length. This river is made by the junction of the river Conemaugh and Black-lick creek. The Kishkimanitas enters also on the · left bank.
The length of the preceding streams is given with their · windings.' In direct lines they would fall considerably under our estimates.
The Alleghany is about two hundred and twenty-eight miles in length, computing it in direct lines, but by its various wind- VOL. I. 11
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ings, about two hundred and seventy. About fifty miles of its course are in this State. This river, beginning about thirty miles below Olean, downwardly to the vicinity of Pittsburg, is bordered by steep hills which rise from two to six hundred feet. They are lowest towards Pittsburg. The bed of the stream is full of rocks, which it is supposed have rolled down from the neighbouring hills. The current is strong, and the boat navi- · gation is attended with much difficulty unless the river is swell- .ed. Spring and. Autumn are the seasons when loaded boats go down. During July, August and September, and some- times 'October, there is usually such a scarcity of water, that · loaded boats can neither ascend nor descend.
. The country from whence the Alleghany, and such of its confluents as have their sources in this State, must have an ele- vation of at least two thousand two hundred feet above the . surface of the ocean. The descent from Olean to Pittsburg is estimated at between five and six hundred feet, which, upon · an average, would be about two and a-half feet to the mile.
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Before we take leave of the Alleghany. it may not be fo- reign to the subject, to briefly notice the Ohio, since it is 'merely a prolongation of the same river :- +
The length of the Ohio, from Pittsburg to its entrance into the Mississippi, by its meanders, is nine hundred and fifty miles, but only five hundred and fifty in a direct line. It flows with a very gentle current, in a southwestwardly direction to its mouth, in north latitude thirty-seven degrees .... It is a beautiful river. It is from four hundred to twelve hundred yards broad. In ordinary spring floods, it affords eighteen or twenty feet-of . water:at Pittsburg, just below the junction : between Wheeling; ninety miles below Pittsburg, and Lewisville, from twenty-four, to thirty feet ; and from the foot of the rapids at Lewisville, to its mouth, from thirty to forty.
The rapids at. Lewisville are two miles long,, and have a' de- scent of twenty-two feet. They are the only obstruction to boat navigation in low water. ' In floods ships. of four or five hund- red tons descend them. .
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The greatest elevations of the stream are in December, March, April, May and June, and the greatest depressions in' August, September and October. At Pittsburg it is almost every winter frozen over for several weeks, and in some in- stances, for four hundred and fifty miles below. ' Generally, the navigation upwardly is suspended in consequence of floating ice, for eight or ten weeks every winter.
Its current, when of mean height, is estimated at three miles an hour; when higher and rising it is more, and when very low, about two miles.
The whole discent of the Ohio, from Pittsburg to its mouth, is estimated at 395 feet. This supposition is founded on vari- ous and pretty correct data. The average descent is five inches per mile. The surface of the Ohio, at Pittsburg, is 263 feet higher than Lake Erie, and about 830 above the tide waters of Chesapeake Bay.
That part of the valley of the Alleghany which is within this State, contains about 2,270 square miles.
We shall, in the next place, note the streams that fall into Lakes Erie and Ontario :-
. Chautauque creek rises on the ridge of the same name, and descends northwesterly into Lake Erie. Its length is twelve or' fourteen miles.
Canada-way, a mountain torrent, is fifteen miles long: His source is in the county of Chautauque, near Cosdaga lake. In former times the Indigines used to carry their bark'canoes from the boatable parts of this stream to Cosdaga lake, whose issue descends into the Alleghany by the Conewango.
The Chautauque, Canada-way, and other streams, which rise on the Chautauque ridge, have in their ways down its declivity, formed tremendous dells. These commence at the upper part of the declivity, and extend down to the foot, deepening and widening all the way.
Cattaraugus creek takes its rise in the southwestern part of the county of Genesee, and runs in a southwesterly direction about thirty miles, and then turns westerly, and soon after west northwesterly twenty miles, where it enters the lake. Its length
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is fifty miles, and its mouth twenty-four miles south southwest- erly from the village of Buffalo. It forms the division line be- tween the counties of Erie and Cattaraugus. Boats and vessels drawing six feet of water enters its mouth.
Canquagua, or Eighteen Mile creek, enters the lake eightcen miles south southwesterly of Buffalo. Its course is west north- westerly twenty-five or thirty miles.
Buffalo* is formed by Cayuga and Seneca creeks, which unite seven or eight miles from its mouth. The former rises in Sheldon, in the county of Genesee, and takes a southwesterly course for about thirty miles.
The latter has its rise in the town of China, in the southwest- erly part of the same county, and pursues a westerly course to the union, about thirty miles. Four miles below the union, Buffalo is enlarged by Cazenovia, which rises in the southeast- erly part of the county of Erie, and runs northwesterly about twenty-cight miles.
Buffalo is navigable for boats to the union, eight miles. Within the bars at the village of Buffalo, there is a good harbour for lake vessels.
Tonnewantat heads in the southern part of the county of Genesee, near the sources of Cattaraugus creek, and takes a northerly course to the vicinity of Batavia, a distance of twenty- five miles, where it turns to the west, and soon after to the northwest ; and lastly, to the west, which latter direction it keeps to its entrance into Niagara river, opposite to Grand Island. It is about eighty miles in length, measuring it by its bed, which is very sinuous. The actual distance from its head to its mouth, in two straight lines, would not exceed fifty-five miles.
Tonnewanta has a breadth of from forty to fifty yards, for the last twenty miles of its course. With a small swell, boats of twelve or fifteen tons may ascend it about thirty miles, where its bed is broken by falls. It is a deep sluggish stream, having some diluvian bars. It forms the division line between Erie end Niagara counties, and ten or eleven miles of the Erie canal.
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