USA > New York > The natural, statistical, and civil history of the state of New-York, v. 1 > Part 6
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Clove-vale, in the town of Beekman, county of Dutchess, is six miles in length and two in breadth. It is watered by Clovekill, a fine stream. This beautiful vale is situated be- tween two mountains.
The vale of Wallkill is about twenty-five or thirty miles in length, and from two to six in breadth. It is partly in the county of Orange, and partly in the State of New-Jersey. Its superfices contain not far from eighty thousand acres of land. The drowned lands bordering Wallkill river, constitute its most important feature. These lands have, in the last fifty years, been mostly reclaimed. Smith, in his History of New- York, published nearly one hundred years ago, remarks that these lands were mostly flooded every spring. The drowned lands, and indeed all the lands contained in it, are rich. The Wallkill, in that part of its course, which is through this vale, . is a crooked sluggish stream with low banks. The extent of this vale is from south to north.
There are many other vales in the State which possess great beauty and fertility, but we shall have to omit descriptions of them, since they would swell this work too much.
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VALLEYS.
In noticing the valleys of the State, we shall have to confine our remarks to the principal, or such as have some peculiar characteristics. Descriptions of the whole would be two irk- some to the reader. Besides, in many instances, they would be
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Little else than repetitions of the same things. Most of our river valleys have similarity in appearances, characteristics, &c.
VALLEY OF THE MOHAWK.
THIS valley is about seventy miles in length, and in some- places a mile in breadth. It stretches from west northwest, to east southeast. On the west, it opens into the Oneida and Seneca vale, and on the east, into the flat country around Schenectady. The hills that bound this valley are from one hundred to four hundred feet in height, at the distance of half a mile from the river. In some places they rise by easy grada- tions. and in others with abruptness. In viewing the valley in detail, it will be found to be divided into three parts ; the upper, the middle, and the lower. The first comprises the space be- tween the Oneida and Seneca vale, and the Little Falls, and is about nineteen miles in length. Fall Hill in a measure separ- ates it from the middle. It contains the villages of Frankfort, Herkimer and Little Falls.
The second comprises the space between Fall Hill and Anthony's Nose, and is twenty-two miles in length. It contains several villages and hamlets, such as Canajoharie, Fort Plain, Palatine, St. Johnsville, the Indian Castle, &c.
'The third comprises the space between Anthony's Nose and the flat country, near the city of Schenectady, and is about thirty-four miles in length. The villages of Caughnewaga and Amsterdam are in it.
The lands in this valley are in general good. The Mohawk fats are famed for their great fecundity.
Between Schenectady and Utica, there are two roads which run along the foot of the hills, bounding the valley, sometimes on the banks of the river, and at other times a little back. The one is on the north, and the other on the south side of the stream. They are now and then nearly interrupted by several projections and narrow defiles. The traveller is often relieved YOL. L. 7
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and highly pleased with the diversified scenery presented to his view. He has before him, at one time, the beautiful, at another the picturesque, then the romantic.
The valley of Schoharie is along the creek of the same name, in the county of Schoharie, and is eighteen or twenty miles in length, and from half a mile, to a mile and a-half in breadth. It ends at the State bridge, twenty-eight miles westwardly of . the city of Albany. It contains the villages of Middleburgh, Schoharie, Sloansville and Esperance. The flats of this valley may be ranked among the richest river lands in the State. The bills that bound the valley are sometimes rough and sometimes smooth. The Schoharie creek, (which deserves the name of a river,) runs in beautiful reaches and curves, through this valley.
The valleys of Sauquait and Oriskinny, in the county of Oneida although inconsiderable in extent, are interesting on account of their richness, and the number of cotton and woollen manufactories they contain. The former is from half a mile to a mile broad, and the latter from one to two miles. The Sau- quait and Oriskinny are handsome streams.
The Chenango valley is in the counties of Madison and Che- nango, along the river of the same name. It is bounded by two chains of hills, and is now and then a mile broad. The Chenango, which waters this fine valley, is a main branch of the Susquehannalı.
Along Unadilla, Tioughnioga, Conhocton, Canisteo and Alleghany rivers, there are valleys which are considerable as to extent and breadth. In general, the lands contained in them are rich. The same remarks will apply to the valleys along Mud creek and Canandaigua river. That along the latter river, before it opens into the Sencca and Oneida vale, has a breadth of two miles.
" The vale of Conewango, in the county of Chautauqua, stretches along Conewango creek. It is, in some places, seven or eight miles wide. When the rich alluvion lands in this, vale are properly cultivated, they will not be surpassed by those of Genesee river. This vale has, like many others, strong marks
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of having once been covered with water. The deposites of al. luvion in some places are twenty or thirty feet in thickness, as is evidenced by wells which have been dug." I am indebted to James O. Morse, Esq. of Cherry Valley, for the description of the Conewango vale.
The valleys of Hoosac and Esopus contain considerable tracts of the best lands in the State. Hoosac river and Esopus creek are large streams that annually overflow their banks.
Besides the valleys described and noticed, there are many others which merit attention, but as we have before remarked, we must pass by them.
SWAMPS AND MARSILES.
First, Tonnawanta Swamp .- This swamp, which has greater extent than any other in the State, is situated in the coun- ties of Genesee, Orleans and Niagara, mostly, however, mn the two former. It is twenty-five miles in length from west to east, and from two to seven miles in breadth from south to north. It is bounded on all sides by plains, which are elevated but little above its surface. The whole swamp, taken together, is very. nearly a level, and exhibits great sameness of aspect. In spring and fall the waters accumulate and overspread the greater part of it. These drain of very slowly, on account of the extreme flatness of the land, and the consequent want of declivity to the drains. The superfices of the swamp are estimated at 'rom 40,000 to 50,000 acres of land. 'T'he soils are various in quali- ties, but it is supposed they are all tillable. The swamp might be drained at no great expense.
Oak Orchard creek, in its way to Lake Ontario, winds through 'Tonnawanta Swamp. Tonnawanta creek, in its way to Niagara river, approaches within a mile of this swamp. Its bed is three feet higher than the swamp, at the approximation. The ground, however, between the creek and swamp is five feet higher than the former. The canal commissioners, in order to increase the waters of the feeder, taken out of Oak, Orchard,
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have caused a ditch to be made from Tonnawanta creek, by which a portion of its waters now flow into the former stream, and thence into the canal by the feeder. The general level of the swamp Mr. Geddes computes to be about ten feet above Lake Erie.
The swamp along Seneca river, and those of Camillus, Sul- livan and Rome, are all considerable for extent, but as we have noticed them in treating of the Oneida and Seneca vale, we shall do nothing more than name them in this place.
Second, Sacondaga Marsh .- This marsh is in the northeast- ern part of the county of Montgomery, along Sacondaga and Mayfield creeks. Its length is seven or eight miles, and its breadth a mile or more. It contains four or five thousand acres of land, and is mostly covered with marsh grass. Every time Sacondaga river overflows its banks, it is in part or wholly sub- merged; on such occasions, that river not only prevents the . waters of Sacondaga creek from flowing onward, but detaches portions of its own up that creek, from whence they are diffused over the surface of the marsh. The Dutch called this marsh Vlaie : at present, it is known by the name of Fly, which we consider a corruption of the former word.
The soil of this marsh is a blackish kind of vegetable earth, possessing little or no cohesion. Hence, the surface is loose, spungy and miry. and not easily passed. In truth, there would be no such thing as walking on it were it deprived of its grassy cover. The surface, in many spots, is elastic, and will bend when you pass over it.
This marsh cannot be drained, it is said, without lowering the bed of the river some miles below the mouth of Sacondaga creek. Should such be the fact, age after age must pass before it be- comes sufficiently firm and dry for cultivation.
The bed of Sacondaga creek, below Summer House Point, is very permeable, so much so, that an oar may be thrust in it seven or eight feet with the utmost ease.
Marshes similar to the latter, are of very common occurence in the mountainous country, situated between the Mohawk
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and St. Lawrence rivers. They vary greatly in dimensions. Some contain thousands of acres, while others are limited to a few. In certain instances Beavers have erected dams across streams traversing or issuing out of them, whereby the waters have been spread over hundreds of acres of land. These mar- shes are often fringed with black alder and other small bushes. Cranberry bushes often grow in small coppices in these open- ings.
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CHAPISA V.
RIVERS, CREEKS, &c.
THE Hudson* is formed by the union of two streams, deno- minated the West and North branches. The West, which is the principal stream, rises in a small lake about two miles long and one broad, situated in the western part of the county of Ham- ilton, five or six miles east of the eastern boundary of the 'county of Herkimer, and runs northeasterly about seven miles, and then northerly and northwesterly about five miles, where it expands into a lake, about three miles long and two broad ; it then issues out at its northeasterly end, and soon after expands into a second lake, about one mile long and nearly of the same breadth. From thence it issues, and after running about seven miles, expands into a third lake about seven iniles long, and from one to two broad, extending from southwest to northeast. Then issuing out at its northeastern extremity, it' pursues an easterly course about six miles, and expands into a fourth lake, about two miles long and one broad. After leaving this lake it turns and takes a southeasterly direc- tion for seven miles, where it receives a stream from the west, which is about twenty miles long. From thence to its junction with the North branch, five or six miles, its course is easterly. The whole length of the West branch, computing it by its mean- ders, and including the lakes through which it passes, is nearly seventy miles.
The North branch, which has hitherto been considered the principal stream, rises in a small pond, lying in the counties of Franklin and Essex, thirty-two miles west of Lake Champlain,
"Note-The Mohiccons and Wabingas who inhabited the lower parts of this river, called it Ma-hack-a negh tuck, also, Sha-te muck.
The Arooeaseah called it Ca-ho-ha-ta-te-a, likewise, Saw-na-taw-ty. We are unac- quainted with the meaning of these words.
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and ruus two or three miles, where it opens into a small lake. After emerging from it, it crosses the northwestern part of Essex, into the county of Hamilton, and after a course of ten or twelve miles, opens into a second lake five or six miles long, stretch- ing from north to south. Quitting this lake at its south end, it re-crosses into Essex, and takes a southerly course for about , ten miles, where it meets the West branch.
A little below the junction, the Hudson is enlarged by a stream from the southwest, fifteen or twenty miles long. About three miles below the junction it receives Jessup's River from the southwest, which is thirty-five or forty miles in length, in- cluding its windings, and two small lakes, through which it passes.
Pursuing a southeasterly course, six or seven miles, the Hudson next receives a stream from the north, which is about thirty miles long, estimating its length by its course.
After the reception of the latter stream, the Hudson pursues a south southeasterly course, twenty-five miles, in a direct line to the mouth of Schroon river, where it turns suddenly to the west, and then to the south, which course it keeps to Jessup's Landing, nineteen miles. Here it turns short to the east, and flows in that direction three miles; it then flows southeast- crly for about two miles ; then northcasterly to Glen's Falls twelve miles, and then easterly to Sandy Hill three miles. Here it bends around to the south, and runs in that direction, inclining a little to the west, to New-York Bay, a distance of . two hundred miles. The entire length of the Hudson, by its meanders, if we compute it from the sources of the West branch, is about three hundred and fifty miles. The tide flows up to the city of Troy, one hundred and fifty-one miles. Thus far sloops, schooners, and other craft, carrying from sixty to one hundred and fifty tons, ascend. Ships of five or six hundred tons burthen, stop about thirty-oue miles lower down. The Hudson affords from five to six fathoms of water from its mouth north- erly to the entrance of the Highlands, or Matteawan mountains. Through the mountains to .West Point, from eight to ten fath- ons : from thence, to near the mouth of the Wallkill, from six
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to twelve fathoms; and thence, to the head of ship navigation, generally about five ; from here upwardly there is a gradual shoaling, independent of Winne's Bar and the Overslaugh.
The Hudson, after the reception of the Mohawk, is a broad deep and majestic river. At Troy, just below the reception, it is about three hundred and seventy yards broad ; at Albany it exceeds four hundred yards ; at Hudson it is nearly a mile. Between this place and the Highlands its usual width is three- quarters of a mile. Within the Highlands it contracts, but on leaving them it expands. At its mouth it is a mile and some rods broad. .
Tappan Bay, an expansion of the Hudson, commences twen- ty-five miles above the river's mouth, and extends northerly to Tellar's Point and Croton river It is eight miles long and from two and three-quarters to four and three-quarters broad.
Harverstraw Bay begins three miles north of Tappan Bay, a little above Verdrietege Hook, and ends at Verplank's and Sto- ny Points. It is six miles in length and four in breadth, where broadest. . This bay is also an expansion of the Hudson. The place denominated the Horse Race, is at the lower part of the Highlands, between Anthony's Nose and Dunderburg, fifteen miles south of West Point. It is a narrow crooked pass bound- ed by high mountains.
Winne's Bar is eight miles below Albany, and the Overslaugh three. They are accumulations of alluvial matters, which ex- tend across the bed of the river. The banks of the Hudson abound with beautiful and romantic prospects. Few rivers in the world afford so great diversities.
Note-Van Der Donk says, in the year 1647, in the month of March, when by a great freshet, the water was fresh almost to the Great bay -- there were two Whales of tolerable size, that went up the river; the one turned back, but the other stranded not far from the grert fall of the Cohoos. Sce Memoir of Egbert Benson, Esq. F. 69.
The following are auxiliaries of the Hudson :-
The Schroon rises in the county of Essex, near the sources of the Boquet, and runs southerly about eighteen miles, and spreads into the north end of Schroon lake, a limpid sheet of
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water, eight or nine miles long, lying in the direction of the stream. On its exit it pursues a southwesterly course to near its mouth, where it turns to the northwest, and soon after enters the Hudson. It is about forty-four miles long including the lake through which it passes. The river from its exit out of Schroon lake, is a sluggish stream, occasionally interrupted by rapids and falls.
Stone Bridge creek, so called from the circumstances of its waters running for a short way under a hill, enters Schroon river on the west, about two miles south of Schroon lake. Its length is about twenty miles, and its course southerly.
The next river that enters the Hudson is the Sacondaga, from the west. This river has its source in the town of Johns- burg, in the northwest part of the county of Warren, and runs ' southwesterly about twenty-three miles, where it is joined by the outlet of Lake Pleasant from the west, which nearly equals it in size. After the reception of the latter stream, it still continues a southwesterly course for six or seven miles, till it meets the West branch. The West branch heads very near the sources of West Canada creek, a branch of the Mohawk, and flows in a southeasterly direction to the union, passing through several small lakes and ponds. Neither branch, at the union, exceeds thirty miles in extent. The Sacondaga, after the union, takes a southeasterly course for about thirty miles, to the mouth of Sacondaga creek, where it turns and pursues a northeasterly one about ten miles, and then an easterly one about the same distance, to its mergence in the Hudson.
Below the union, Sacondaga receives East and West Stony creeks, two fine mill streams; and at the Fish-house, in North- ampton, Sacondaga or Mayfield creek.
The Sacondaga is a very crooked stream. Its current is strong, and its bed broken with many rapids and some falls. It . is about eighty miles in length. 1
Sacondaga creek merits notice. It is constituted by the coalescence of Mayfield creek, and other small streams in the Vlaie, a morass six or seven miles in length, and a mile or more in breadth. Its bottom and banks, from its mouth to VOL. I. 8
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Summer House Point, three miles upwardly, are composed of a blackish vegetable earth, of so soft and permeable a texture as to be nearly impassable unless bound by the rigours of winter. The Vlaie is inundated every time the river surmounts its banks.
Batten Kill enters the Hudson about fourteen miles south of Sandy Hill. It takes its rise in the town of Bromly, in the State of Vermont, on the west side of the principal chain of the Green mountains, near the head waters of Otter creek, and flows in a southwesterly direction twenty-five or thirty miles, to the boundary between this State and Vermont. Here it enters the county of Washington, and then proceeds westwardly to the Hudson. Soon after its entrance into Washington, it is in- creased by Little White creek, a beautiful stream about twenty- ' miles in length, which also comes from Vermont.
Batten Kill has several falls, and a very active current. At the Great Falls in Greenich, a few miles above its mouth, the water descends nearly sixty feet.
Fish creek, which rises among the Kayaderosseras moun- tains, in the town of Corinth, in the county of Saratoga, falls into the Hudson half a mile below Batten Kill. Its length, by its meanders, is about forty miles, but not over thirty in direct lines. It passes through the northerly part of Saratoga lake. This stream, from its source to where it enters Saratoga lake, is cal- led Kayaderosseras, and from its emergence to its mouth, Fish creek. Its banks, from Ballstown Spa to Saratoga lake, are low, and are bordered by extensive flats, which have a breadth of one mile in some places.
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Hoosac river next discharges itself into the Hudson, about fourteen miles south of Batten Kill. It has its source in the northwestern part of the State of Massachusetts, and is made by the junction of two streams near Williamstown. Neither stream is more than fifteen or sixteen miles long. From the junction, its course is northwesterly into this State, across the southeasterly angle of Vermont. The remaining part of its course, which is sixteen or eighteen miles, is westerly, and is partly across the county of Washington, and partly across that of Rensellaer.' After it has entered this State; it receives the
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Walloomscoic from Vermont, and Little Hoosae from the inte- rior of Rensellaer.
· The Hoosac is about fifty miles in length. It is an impetu- ous stream, and liable to great and sudden elevation and de- pressions. The country through which it makes its way, is highly romantic and picturesque, now and then beautiful. The intervals along this river, have considerable extent and great fertility.
The next river which falls into the Hudson is the Mohawk. This river rises in the Highlands of Black river, in the south- ern part of the county of Lewis, not far from the source of Fish creek of Oneida lake, and takes a southeasterly course about twenty-eight miles, and then a southwesterly one about fourteen miles, to the village of Rome, in the county of Oneida, where it approaches within a mile of Wood creek, a water of Fish creek. Here it curves around to the east, and pursues an east southeasterly course to its mouths, at Waterford, Lansing- burgh and Troy.
The Mohawk, a little before it mingles with the Hudson, se- parates into four branches. The upper enters at Waterford, and the lower nearly opposite the city of Troy. The others are in- termediate. The distance between the mouths of the upper and lower branches is nearly four miles. Between these there are three islands. Haver island, which is about half a mile long, lies below Waterford, between the first and second branches. Van Schaick's island lies between the second and third branches, opposite Lansingburg. It is nearly two miles long, and half a mile broad. In 1777, the Northern Army, under Gen. Schuyler, took a position on this island just before it advanced to meet Gen. Burguoyne. Tibbet's island, between the third and fourth branches, has about the same extent.
The mouths of this river, the Dutch called the Spruyten, which we have changed into Sprouts.
The Mohawk traverses the counties of Oneida, Herkimer, Montgomery and Schenectady, and divides the counties of Al- bany and Saratoga. Its length from its source to its mouths, estimating it by its sinuosities, is little if any short of one
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hundred and sixty miles, but in direct lines not much over one hundred and thirty. The upper and lower parts of this river are rapid and broken with cataracts. From Rome to Little Falls, it is a crooked dull stream. Between the foot of Little Falls, and the rapids below Schenectady, it is made up of reaches of slack water separated by rapids.
The Little Falls and the Cohoos are on this river, the former consists of two long rapids divided by a stretch of deep water. The whole descent is forty-two feet in three-quarters of a mile. The latter has a descent of seventy-eight feet. The water falls at an angle of about seventy degrees.
Before the construction of the Erie canal, this river, with a small swell, afforded good navigation for boats, carrying fifteen tons, from Schenectady to Rome, with the exception of Little Falls, and a rift at Germanflats.
The ascents and distances of this river, by actual admeasur- ments, made by the Hon. Benjamin Wright, and other engi- neers, employed in laying out and superintending the making of Erie canal, are as follows :- first, from tide water to the head of the Cohoos Falls, the ascent is 120 feet, and distance two miles -second, to the city of Schenectady 74 feet, and distance eigh- teen-third, to the foot of Little Falls 130 feet, and distance fifty- six-fourth, to the head of Little Falls 42 feet, and distance three-quarters-fifth, to the Rome summit level 54 feet, and distance thirty-eight. Total ascent 420 feet, and distance one hundred and fourteen miles and three-quarters.
The scenery along the Mohawk is often beautiful, not un- frequently picturesque, occasionally romantic. Its course from the vicinity of Utica is through a deep winding valley.
The Mohawk, we have already said, approaches within one mile of Wood creek. Its bed, at this approximation, is between nine and ten feet higher than that of Wood creek. Both streams have been united by a canal, so that boats passed and repassed from the Mohawk* to Oneida lake. In truth, the flat-
This river the Agoneassah called Can-ne-o-ga.ha ka-lon-o.ni-tade ; also, Ye-no- ma-natch (i. e.) going round a mountain. See as to the latter, Darid Cusik's Sketches of the Six Nations.
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ness of the country is such, that the waters of the Mohawk, in very great floods, have been known to rise and spread over the lowest part of the level, and discharge themselves as well west- wardly by Wood creek into Oneida lake, as eastwardly into the Hudson. The descent from the summit level into Oneida lake, is but sixty feet. The distance is about fourteen miles. .
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