The natural, statistical, and civil history of the state of New-York, v. 1, Part 3

Author: Macauley, James
Publication date: 1829
Publisher: New York, Gould & Banks; Albany, W. Gould and co.
Number of Pages: 1138


USA > New York > The natural, statistical, and civil history of the state of New-York, v. 1 > Part 3


Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).


Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 | Part 5 | Part 6 | Part 7 | Part 8 | Part 9 | Part 10 | Part 11 | Part 12 | Part 13 | Part 14 | Part 15 | Part 16 | Part 17 | Part 18 | Part 19 | Part 20 | Part 21 | Part 22 | Part 23 | Part 24 | Part 25 | Part 26 | Part 27 | Part 28 | Part 29 | Part 30 | Part 31 | Part 32 | Part 33 | Part 34 | Part 35 | Part 36 | Part 37 | Part 38 | Part 39 | Part 40 | Part 41 | Part 42 | Part 43 | Part 44


The mountainous tract towards, and at the south, and along the borders of New England, comprehends most of the counties of Putnam, Rockland, Orange, Ulster, Sullivan, Delaware, Schoharie, Broome, Tioga and Stuben ; the southerly parts of Alleghany and Chenango, the southerly and easterly parts of Ot- sego, the southwesterly part of Albany, the westerly and south- erly parts of Greene, the easterly parts of Westchester, Dutchess, Columbia, Rensellaer and Washington. It is upwards of 250 miles in length, measuring from the eastern bounds of Putnam, to the western bounds of Alleghany ; the line is northwest and west, according to the form of this part of the State Its extent, along the New England border, exceeds one hundred and seven- ty miles. At the Hudson the breadth is about twenty miles. On going about twenty miles west of that river, the width is eighty miles ; thence proceeding westwardly, the breadth dimi- VOL. I. 2


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nishes to fifty, and so down to twenty miles. The entire super- fices in square miles, do not differ much from 12,000.


The mountain ranges and groups, comprised in this tract, have various appellations : those on the east are called Peter- borough, Williamstown, Taconic, &c. Those at the Hudson are called the Highlands, or Matteawan mountains. Those more west are denominated the Kaatskill, Shawangunk, Blue, Tioga, &c. We shall describe the principal ranges, &c. beginning with the Taconic.


The Taconic enters this State from Vermont, in the north- eastern corner of the county of Rensellaer, and pursues a south- erly course, being partly in this State and partly in Massachu- setts, to the southeasterly corner of Columbia county, a distance of fifty miles, where it separates into two ranges. The one continues southerly through the eastern parts of Dutchess, Put- nam and Westchester, and terminates not far from Kingsbridge, on Harlem river : . the other winds away in a southwesterly direction to the Hudson, crossing the county of Dutchess obliquely. In the north the Taconic is called the Williamstown mountain. On the west side of this mountain there is a valley extending from the northeasterly corner of Rensellaer, to the county of Dutchess, on the south. It has Peterborough moun- tain on the west. This valley comprises the valley of Little Hoosac, the vale of Lebanon, &c. In Sheffield, Massachusetts, the Taconic rises to the height of 3,000 feet.


Peterborough mountain lies west of the Taconic. It enters the county of Rensellaer from the southeastern part of the county of Washington, and advances southerly and parallel with the Taconic, to the northern part of Dutchess county, where it also winds away to the Hudson. It passes the river north of the Highlands, and penetrates the county of Orange. Its ele- vation is less than that of the Taconic, and its outlines more regular. In some places it descends to the level of the country. It is called Bald, as well as Peterborough, in Rensellaer. A beautiful valley intervenes between these mountains.


The Highlands, or Matteawan mountains, traverse the coun- ty of Putnam, and parts of Dutchess and Westchester, on the


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STATE OF NEW-YORK.


east side of the Hudson, and portions of Orange and Rock- land, on the west side of that river. They cross the Hudson at West Point, &c. and extend from New England, on the north- cast, to New Jersey, on the southwest, their course being oblique across the State. These mountains unite the Alleghanies with those of New England. They have a breadth of eighteen or twenty miles at the Hudson, and consist of several ridges run- ing parallel one with the other. After crossing the Hudson they become broader on account of other ridges rising and holding corresponding courses. The scenery, where the Hud- son passes through them, is exceedingly grand. The High- lands have greater elevation before they reach, and after they leave the river, than they have at the river.


The Shawangunk, which lies northwesterly of the Highlands, is a continuation of Blue ridge, one of the chains of the Alle- ghanies. It enters this State from the northwest corner of New Jersey, and proceeds to near the union of Rundout and Wall-kill rivers, where it degenerates into hills, which seem to be lengthened out northerly to the Kaatskill mountains. The Shawangunk crosses the westerly part of the county of Orange, and the southeasterly part of the county of Sullivan, after which it penetrates some distance into Ulster county. Its extent, in this State, is about forty-five miles, and its general direction northeast. The Hudson and Delaware canal runs on the north- west side, at and near the base. Its base, in some places, is six or seven miles broad. It has considerable elevation, and a pretty uniform summit. The Shawangunk is connected with the Kaatskill mountains, by a series of irregular hills, which range across Ulster, a few miles west of Kingston. The Run- dout, Esopus, and Platt flow through them. They rise at one time 2 or 300 feet, and sink at another, to the level of the country. On the confines of Greene, they assume a loftier character, and speedily rise into mountains.


The Blue mountains advance into this State from Pennsylvania. They lie northwest of the Shawangunk. They range at first northeasterly, and then northerly, uniting with the Kaatskill on the northern borders of the county of Ulster. In the latter


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county they are between twenty and thirty miles west of the Hudson. They, at first, upon entering Ulster, are about twenty miles distant from the Hudson, and approach it at an angle of about thirty-five degrees ; they, however, soon recede, and at about the same angle. As they approach that river, they fall, and as they recede, they rise.


Between the Blue and Shawangunk mountains there is an extensive valley. The Hudson and Delaware canal runs many miles in this valley. The Blue mountains are more elevated and broken than the Shawangunk. These mountains are seen, to good advantage, from the tranquil waters of the Hudson, in a fine day. Their azure hue has conferred on them the name they bear. In the State of Pennsylvania these mountains are called the Kittatinney. Their elevation often exceeds 2,000 feet.


The Kaatskill mountains may be said to rise near a place in the county of Ulster, called Saugerties, eight or nine miles west of Hudson's river. The grand ridge stretches in a northwest- erly direction, to the southeasterly part of the county of Ot- sego, passing through the southwesterly parts of Greene, and Schoharic, and the northeasterly part of Delaware, keeping on and near the bounderies of the latter counties. It divides the waters of Schoharie creek, from those of Esopus creek, Pa- pachton and Delaware rivers.


In the county of Greene, the Grand ridge detaches a branch that extends on the right bank of Schoharie creek to the county of Montgomery, where it recedes, and soon after ends at the Mohawk, in what is called Flint Hill. This ridge declines all the way from its commencement to its termination. The western declivity, as far as Schoharie court-house, is usually short and rapid. The eastern is in general longer and more gradual. The Heldeberg, in the county of Albany, is a spur of the preceding branch.


The Kaatskill mountains are the loftiest in the State, and have a majestic appearence when viewed from the placid waters of the Hudson.


The following are the highest altitudes :- first, Pine Orchard has an altitude above the tide waters of the Hudson, of 3,000


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feet-second, High Peak has one of 3,718 feet-third, Round Top has one of 3,804 feet. These are in the county of Greene. In Delaware and Schoharie, the Grand ridge may be put down at from 2,000 to 2,600 feet. The branch which accompanies the right bank of Schoharie creek, is 1,153 feet high at the ource of Catskill creek. The Heldeberg is from 400 to 600 feet. Flint Hill, in the county of Schenectady, is proba- bly 800 feet. The latter branch we have named Kanjearagore, which seems to have been the Agoneasean designation of the Kaatskill mountains. See colonial laws as to the name.


MOUNTAINS ALONG THE DELAWARE, &c.


Two chains of mountains, which terminate in the Grand ridge of the Kaatskill, accompany the Papachton, a branch of the Delaware. They are from 500 to 1,000 feet above'the river, and from 1,800 to 2,600 above the ocean. That on the right bank occupies the space to the Delaware, and constitutes the eastern outline of its valley. Between the Delaware and Susquehannah rivers there is one principal chain, which rises on the confines of Montgomery county, in the town of Spring- field, county of Otsego. This chain runs southerly, on the east side of Otsego lake, and after passing Charlotte river, is joined by a branch from the borders of the county of Scho- harie. It then takes a southwesterly course. Its elevation is from 1,500 to 2,300 feet above the ocean. The hills along Cherry Valley and Sheneva creeks, and other streams, pass into it. The chain on the right bank of the Susquehannah begins in the town of Warren, in the southern part of Herkimer, at or near the great western road, and runs southwardly along the west side of Otsego lake and the Susquehannah, to Charlotte river, where it also turns off to the southwest. Its elevation is from 1,400 to 1,900 feet. The outlines of this chain have more smoothness than the foregoing. On the west side of Otsego lake, it exhibits series of beautifully rolling hills joined towards their bases. Otego creek and Unadilla river run between


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hills which aspire to the character of mountains. These hills unite with the mountain chain on the right bank of the Susque- hannah. The chain between Unadilla and Chenango rivers, is from 1,200 to 1,700 feet in elevation, above the ocean. The chain on the west side of Chenango is nearly as elevated. Be- tween the last chain and the Cayuta creek, the country is hilly, except near the border of the State.


The counties of Broome, Tioga and Stuben are considerably broken by mountains. There are two principal groups. The one is in Broome, the other in Tioga and Stuben. Both belong to the Alleghanies, and are connected with those of Delaware, Otsego and Chenango. Some of them are very rugged and bar- ren, while others have smoothness and much cultivable lands.


The mountain and hill ranges of Delaware, Otsego, Che- nango, &c. are based upon a highly elevated and inclined plain, which has two principal declivities; the one towards the Mohawk and the lakes, and the other in the direction that the waters of the Delaware, Susquehannah and Alleghany rivers flow. The spine of this plain commences near the source of the main branch of the Delaware river, and runs north northwesterly upon the confines of the counties of Schoharie and Otsego, to the bor- ders of Montgomery county, where it changes its course and runs westerly, to the northwesterly corner of the county of Chenango. Here it turns and runs southwesterly, passing by the heads of Cayuga and Seneca lakes. It then pursues a west northwesterly course, till it has gone by the head of the Conhocton, after which, its direction, in the main, is westwardly to Portland, in Chat- auqua county, on the shores of Lake Erie. Most of the mountain and hill ranges commence on the summit of this spine, and in general take opposite directions. These ranges often appear to gain elevation as they recede from the spine, but this is usually in consequence of the valleys deepening. The valleys of Delaware, Susquehannah, Unadilla, Chenango, &c. become deeper, and the mountains and hills higher ; that is, the mountains and hills gain in elevation what the plain on which they stand looses by declination. All the ridges which take their departure in the direction of the Mohawk and


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lakes, are inconsiderable as to lengthi. The ridges between Sauquait and Oriskinny, between the latter and Oneida creek, &c. may be cited as examples. On the southern declivity, how- ever, the ridges have great length, often stretching far beyond the State. The river valleys have also great extent. The valley of the Chenango is almost co-extensive with the river, so is that of Unadilla.


Louslersberg, four or five miles west of Athens, in the county of Greene, is 322 feet above the tide water of the Hudson. The foot of Kaatskill mountain, ten miles more to the west, is 867 feet above tide. The mountain itself, where Messrs. Ham- mond and Pitcher, the road commissioners, took the altitude, is 1,912 feet. This is the chain on the right bank of the Schoharie creek. Its rise from its base is 1,045 feet. The bed of the creek is about 700 feet above tide water.


Lake Utsayantho, (pond) which is the source of Delaware river, has an elevation of 1,886 feet above the Hudson. The mountains which nearly environ it, are 600 or 700 feet highier, which would give altitudes of 2,500 or 2,600 feet. The grand, or main ridge of the Kaatskill passes by the pond on the north, at the distance of half a mile, being between the pond and Schoharie creek. The latter detaches a branch which accom- panies the left bank of the Delaware.


The village of Delhi, twenty miles southwest of Utsayantho, is 1,380 feet above tide water. The descent of the Delaware, in this short distance, is 506 feet.


Between Delhi and the Susquehannah river, the land rises to the height of 2,143 feet above tide. The rise from the valley of the Delaware, in which Delhi is situated, in going westwardly four miles and a half, is 757 feet. In some places to the north, the rise between Delaware and Susquehannah rivers is still greater.


The Susquehannah and Unadilla rivers, at their union, are 1,000 feet higher than the Hudson. The highest point of land between Unadilla and Chenango rivers, setting out from the former, is 1,629 feet above tide. 'The ascent from the former is 716 feet, and the descent to the latter 669. The hill along


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the east side of the Chenango is frequently rapid. The distance from the Unadilla to Oxford, on the Chenango, is fifteen miles.


The hill on the west side of Owego creek, is 1,379 feet above tide water. The valley along the creek, is only 1,104; con- sequently the hill is only 275 feet above the bottom of the valley. Between Cayuga and Seneca lakes, the land is usually 1,256 · above the tide water of the Hudson. In some instances the lands around the heads of these lakes are 1,600 feet above the ocean.


The elevation between Seneca lake and Mud creek, of Con- hocton river, is from 1,482 to 1,600 feet. There is a ridge of hills between the latter creek and Conhocton, which is 1,580 feet above tide water. 'The ascent on the side of Mud creek is 462 feet, and from Bath,. on the Conhocton, 465 feet. The actual elevation above the general surface of the country here- abouts, is, at most, only from 465 to 500 feet.


The heighth of land between the rivers Conhocton and Genesee, where the waters approximate, is 1,840 feet above tide water-say 1,850 above the ocean. The aspect of the country is moderately rolling.


The space between the head waters of the Canisteo and . Black creek of Genesee river, is 2,062 feet above tide, and 862 feet above Ark Port, on the former river; and 634 feet above Angellica, on the latter river. Thus much for one line, so far. We shall return again to the vicinity of the Hud- son, and take up another line, which is more to the south.


Palmer mountain, near the line between the towns of Middle- town and Andes, in the county of Delaware, has an elevation above the tide waters of the Hudson, at Kingston, in the county of Ulster, of 2,111 feet. Pine mountain, where it divides the counties of Ulster and Delaware, is 1,780 feet above tide water. Its elevation in other parts of its course, is occasionally 2,000 feet. The Shawangunk mountain is from 1,866 to 2,000 feet high, east of Mamakating, in the county of Sullivan. The lime-stone ridge, or hills lying westwardly of Kingston, in the county of Ulster, is 217 feet above the Hudson. Between the river and the ridge the country is a plain. Hunk Hill, near Wawarsing, in Ulster county, is 605 feet above tide, and 294


STATE OF NEW-YORK.


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above the creek, at the same place. The ridge between Ches- nut creek and Beaver kill is 1,063 feet higher, or 1,668 feet above tide water. The descent froin this ridge by Beaver kill, to Neversink river, is 353 feet. Beyond the Neversink the hill rises 417 feet, which gives an elevation above tide water of 1,725 feet. Mongaup Gap is 768 feet above the Neversink, and 2,080 feet above tide water. The Gap is about forty miles west of the Hudson in a direct line. The course of this moun- taini is northerly and southerly. The bed of the river Delaware, one mile above the mouth of the Papachton, is 915 feet above the level of the tide water on Hudson's river. The descent of the Delaware, from Delhi to this place, is 465 feet.


· From the Willeweemack, to the junction of Delaware and Papachton rivers, the streams are bounded on each side by mountains, from 500 to 1,000 feet in perpendicular height, computing from the beds of the streams, which may be consi- dered nearly on a level with the floor of the country.


The elevation above the tide water of the Hudson, between Deposite, on Delaware river, and Windsor, in the county of Broome, on the Susquehannah, is 1,689 feet. The bed of the Delaware, at Deposite, is 992 feet above tide ; and that of the Susquehannah, at Windsor, 913 feet, the mountain, therefore, is only 697 feet. From Kingston, in Ulster county, to Bath, on the Conhocton, in Steuben county, the distance is two hundred and thirteen miles.


The Chautauqua ridge, near Cosdaga outlet, in the county of Chautauqua, is 1,146 feet above the surface of Lake Erie, and 1, 720 above the ocean. Between Cosdaga flats and Clear creek, the same ridge is 1,398 feet above Lake Erie, and 1,972 above the ocean. The height of land between Elm and Little valley creeks, in the county of Cattaraugus, is 1,153 feet higher than Lake Erie, and about 1,725 higher than the ocean. The land between Little and Big valley creeks, in the same county, is 1,563 feet above Lake Erie, and 2,138 above the ocean. The elevation between Big valley and Ichua creeks, in the latter county, is about the same. At Franklinville the land is 1,580 feet above the level of the ocean. Angellica, in VOL. I.


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the county of Alleghaney, on the east side of Genesee river, is 1,434 feet above the ocean. In Rushford and Centerville, in the western part of the county, near some of the head waters of. one branch of Cattaraugus creek, the elevation above the ocean is 2,163 feet. The Chautauqua ridge varies from 1,573 to 2,163 feet above the ocean. The lands more to the south, especially in Alleghaney and Cattaraugus counties, are higher, being from 1,600 to 2,300 feet above the ocean. In a few places some of the hills may be still higher. The country, it is well known, rises towards the sources of Alleghaney and Genesee rivers; but these are in the State of Pennsylvania.


In relation to most of the elevations between Athens, Kings- ton and Newberg, on the Hudson, and Portland, on Lake Erie, we are indebted to Jabez D. Hammond, Esq. late a senator ; and Joshua Pitcher, Esq. at present Lieutenant Governor of this State. These gentlemen were appointed commissioners in 1826, to explore a rout for a road from the Hudson to Lake Erie. See their report. It is a valuable document.


. Summit pond, at the very head waters of the Susquehannah, ' in the northerly part of the county of Otsego, is 1,346 feet above tide water on the Hudson. This pond is on the height of land between Otsego lake and the Mohawk river. Its waters in the spring, flow into the latter as well as the former. The Susquehannah valley, after it has passed Otsego lake, spreads out like a fan ; the distance from hill to hill on the turnpike, being seven miles. The aspect is gently waved. The general direction of the swells is towards the lake. From Summit pond to the lake, the descent is 158 feet, and from the lake to the Pennsylvania line, 292. The depression of the valley then, from Summit pond to the line, is 450 feet. The hills or mountains, as they are called, more to the south, are from 1,400 to 2,300 feet above the ocean. In certain places they may be some higher. We have estimated them at and near the great road, at from 1,400 to 1,500 feet. We have already remarked, that the chain on the east side of the valley, is 2,143 feet high, four and a-half miles west of Delhi, and be- tween Deposite and Windsor, 1,689. The valley in which the


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village of Cherry Valley is situated, a mile northerly of the vil- lage, is about 1,360 feet above the tide water of the Hudson. The hill on the west side of the valley, we have described as bounding the east side of the Susquehannah valley. That on the east side is a branch of the former .. About three miles eastwardly of the village, there is another hill forming the southeasterly side of another valley. This hill is also a branch of that first above specified. The three latter hills end on the north, at the declivity of the Osquake. The Osquake hill is a portion of the spine, stretching from near the sources of Dela- ware river to Lake Erie. All the leading hills of Otsego have their commencement at or near the Osquake hill. The descent from the Osquake hill to the Mohawk river, is from 800 to 1,000 feet ; and in the distance of from five to eight miles. In some places the descent is rapid. The descent from the same hill to Schoharie creek, by the state road, in eighteen miles, is about 800 feet. Besides several short steep offsets, and some long slopes, there is an almost continued descent.


Lake Utsayantho, out of which Delaware river issues, and which is situated at the head of the valley, is 1,886 feet above tide water; and the bed of the river at Deposite, 992 feet. The mountain, on the southeast side of the valley, varies from 1,700 to 2,300 feet above tide. That on the northwest side is nearly as high.


The hill . between Chenango and Unadilla rivers, is from 1,600 to ,1,800 feet above tide water; and that west of the former river is almost of similar elevation. The mouth of the Chenango is 823 feet higher than tide water; and the summit level at the head of the valley, where the proposed canal is to pass, is 1, 126. The hills along the Chenango may be estimated at from 1,300 to 1,800 feet above the surface of the ocean. They are lowest in the north. That part of the plain on which they are based, is lower than that on which those of the Susquehannah are based; as that again is lower than that on which those of the, Delaware stand. We have alredy seen that the elevation of the spine is 1,886 feet at Utsayantho ; 1,360 a little north of Cherry Valley, 1,346 at Summit Pond,


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1,126 at the pass from the Chenago to the Orskinney, on the line of the contemplated canal .. At Deposite the plain is 992 feet ; at the union of Susquehannah and Unadilla rivers 1,000, at the mouth of the Chenango 823, and at the mouth of Owego 783 feet.


We shall conclude with some general observations, and by giving tables of , elevations.


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All the mountains of the State of New-York may be con- ' sidered as belonging to the Alleghanian or Appalachian moun- tains. The length of these mountains is about one thousand miles, and their breadth from twenty to one hundred and fifty miles. 'They extend from the mouth of the St. Lawrence, in the Province of Lower Canada, in a southwesterly direction, to the Mississippi, above Natchez, where they end in bluffs and rocky sterps. In the north they run near the Atlantic coast, till they have passed the Hudson, after which they recede. In New Eng- land and New York some branches shoot off, and terminate on the borders of the ocean and Long Island Sound. The Alleghanies traverse New England, New York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Maryland, Virginia, North Carolina, Kentucky and Tennesee. They divide the waters, generally speaking, which fall into the Atlantic Ocean, from those that fall into the St. Lawrence and Mississippi rivers. In New England they are. called the White mountains, Green mountains, &c. The Sa- .


condaga mountains are joined to the Green mountains by the chain extending from Mount Independence, to East Bay, &c. near White Hall; and the Kaatskill, by the Blue, and others, to the Alleghanies of Pennsylvania.


TABLE OF ELEVATIONS.


1st. Sacondaga Mountains.


1 The Palmertown range, from 500 to 1,200 feet


2 - Kayaderasseras 700 to 1,200 do.


3 - Clinton 66


600 to 2,000 do.


4 - Sable 700 to 2,600 do.


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5 The Chateaugua, estimated from 712 to 3,000 Ft.


6 - Range lying N. W. 66 1200 to 2,000 do.


7 - Highlands of Black river « . 1220 to 1,600 do.


8 - Hassencleaver


.. 800 to 1,200 do.


2d, The Highlands, &c.


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1 Anthony's Nose 935 Ft.


2 Bear Mount 1,350 do.




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