The Register of Pennsylvania : devoted to the preservation of facts and documents and every other kind of useful information respecting the state of Pennsylvania, Vol. III, Part 114

Author: Hazard, Samuel, 1784-1870
Publication date: 1828
Publisher: Philadelphia : Printed by W.F. Geddes ;
Number of Pages: 440

USA > Pennsylvania > The Register of Pennsylvania : devoted to the preservation of facts and documents and every other kind of useful information respecting the state of Pennsylvania, Vol. III > Part 114

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After spending the remainder of the evening very agreeably, we took our leave, which was affectionate on both sides; and on our part with hearts deeply sensible of the regard which had been shown to our church, and of the personal civilities which we had received .*

*During the dinner this day at Lambeth, we were surprised at a conversation introduced by the bishop of Peterborough. We had been accustomed to think it a sort of adjunct to the claim of churchmanship to consid- er the "Royal Portraiture" as a true expression of the feelings of king Charles I. in some of the most trying circumstances of his life. The bishop remark- ed, and his brethren assented to the position, that the contrary was now clearly proved, by a late publication of some papers of Lord Clarendon. These papers, it was said, show the work to have been written by bish- op Gauden. The simplicity of the style of the work, and the contrary properly said to be discernable in the writings of that bishop, are the circumstances which in- clined Mr. Hume to give the credit of the composition to the king.

AN ACCOUNT OF THE FIRST SETTLEMENT OF THE TOWNSHIPS OP BUCKINGHAM AND SOLEBURY, In Bucks County, Pennsylvania.

Extracted from a communication by Dr. John Watson, published in the memoirs of the Penn'a. Hist. Soc.

The township of Buckingham, situate near the cen- tre of the county of Bucks, is the largest township in the county, containing 18,488 acres.

Solebury lies between Buckingham and the river Del- aware, and contains 14,073 acres.

The whole of the two townships in early time was called Buckingham, being a favourite name with our first worthy proprietor, William Penn. The name was first given to the township and borough. now called Bristol, but transferred here perhaps about the year before Cutler's re-survey; by which it appears, that the two townships were divided by a north-west line from the lower corner of Thomas and John Bye's tract, extending to the upper corner of Randal Black- shire's tract.

road on one side of his survey; and therefore they were laid out answering to each other, about 320 perches in width on each side of the township line, and one range further in Solebury.

It appears, by an enumeration of the inhabitants ta- ken in 1787, that Buckingham contained 173 dwelling- houses, 188 out-houses, 1173 white inhabitants, and 13 blacks. Solebury, 166 dwelling-houses, 150 out-hou- ses, 928 white inhabitants, and no blacks.

In the township of Buckingham, a fine stream of wa- ter, arising from numerous small springs in the grit-land above York road, and some larger supplies from the limestone land below, unites its several branches, and running through the south-west end of Wrightstown, falls into the Neshamony. The Indian name of this stream was Lahaskekee, or Lahaskeek. The white people call it Randall's run; and a south branch, Ro- berts's run.

Two rocky ridges of the same Indian name run paral- lel to each other, and about 80 perches apart on the south-west side of the creek. Between these hills and the stream, there is a piece of fine land, of a soil black, light, and sandy; which probably was once an Indian settlement. In 1769, a white-oak tree was cut on this land, in which there were several large marks of an axe; which showed by the years' growths, that it had been done near 50 years before the grant of the province to William Penn. I have seen the form of a hawk or eagle cut in the bark of a white-oak by the Indians not far distant.

The stone on these hills is a kind of hard, sandy flint, and a bed of limestone deep underneath.

The same ridge rises again about 80 perches on the south-east of the creek, and extends nearly north-east, inclining to the east, three miles, to near Buckingham line. This hill is much higher than the others; the stone and soil the same, and the Indian name the same. Af- ter a small interval of 80 perches, broken and irregular hills continue to the river, winding in their direction rather more eastwardly, and of an entirely different kind of stone, being a hard ochre, or bluish rock, inclining to a round form, but very unshapely for building. . On the south-east side of these hills rise those fine springs of water that form the source of Pidcock's creek.

James Letch, who formerly travelled on foot to Long Island, traced this chain of broken hills, throughout his journey; and it is remarkable that they form the first rocky ridge from the sea shore.

A certain Doctor Bowman, being of a contemplative turn of mind, in the early settlement, used to frequent the fine round top of one of these hills near the river; and, at his request, he was buried there. It is since cal- led Bowman's Hill. Many others have since been bu- ried at the same place. Bowman's Hill is directly op- posite to another on the Jersey shore called Belmount, of the same height, form and direction; and they appear to have been separated by the river Delaware. This appears evident at a distant observation, and is fully confirmed by examining the ends of the hills.

The broken hills near the river in the upper end of Solebury, are cut into deep winding hollows, by streams of water. In these banks and around in the neighbour- hood, are great abundance of good building stone, split- ting and dressing well, of a finer or coarser grained grit, and of different colours. Some are a mixture of coarse sand and pebbles. All these kinds of stone, on a some- what sandy soil, are common in the upper part of both townships.

In the hills near Howell's ferry, and thence in a south- westerly direction through Solebury and part of Buck- ingham, rocks are found, very suitable for rough mill- stones, and other uses of that kind. A narrow vein of limestone begins in Buckingham, back of the Lahaske- kee hill, and runs parallel with it, and probably under it, to the north-east end of Buckingham line, and then be- comes wider in Solebury, and divides, interspersed with

John Cutlerr in the draught from which the prece- ding is taken, has noted that four perches in breadth were left between the opposite surveys, for a public street or road; being on the north-east of the township of Buckingham, and on the south-west of the township of Solebury. It appears probable that it was designed that every purchaser should have the advantage of al other soils, to the river. In the lower part of Bucking-

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HISTORY OF BUCKINGHAM AND SOLEBURY.

1829.]

ham, the soil is a loam, blue clay, or shell on a shell bot- tom, pretty level, and wet. Solebury is generally hilly, with a great variety of different soils and stones, well supplied for the most part with springs of good water, except on a piece of barrons, where there are no springs nor running water. This land, with proper management of late years, has produced good crops of grain and grass.

A very large spring rises in Solebury, called by the natives Aquetong, and by the white people Ingham's, or the Great Spring. The water flows out in a cove or hollow: the stone on the south-east being a solid red- shell, while those on the north-west are limestone. It is remarkably clear and cold in summer, and seldom freezes in winter. The quantity is supposed sufficient. with 18 or 20 feet fall, to turn two grist mills almost uni- formly throughout the year; and there are five good sites for mill-works on the stream to where it falls into the Delaware at Newhope, or Coryell's ferry, a distance of about three miles. It is employed at the present time for one paper mill, one fulling-mill, two merchant- mills, four saw-mills, and an oil-mill.

There has been an inquiry concerning the source from which so great a quantity of water is so regularly supplied. Perhaps the most probable conjecture is, that throughout all, or most part of the limestone vein for 8 or 9 miles to the south-west, there are large cavi- ties formed by the decaying of the stones; and these in some places having openings which admit fresh and moist air, the extensive cold stone surface acting like a vast still, is continually dropping and running down the sides, and affording a fresh supply of water. To this may be added the water collected in ponds and lime- stone sinks, which are numerous.

The water may be collected in several subterraneons reservoirs or ponds, and pouring down from the higher. into the lower, and being confined by a vein of red-shell or some other kind of hard stone or earth, may at length flow out in one place.

To confirm this opinion, it is remarked that the wa- ter in four or five wells on T. Bye's tract, and in a sink near them, is on an exact level, and that they rise and fall together. But some difficulty arises to account for this rising and falling of the water, if there be a free vent for its discharge.

Isaac Pillar's spring discharges a lively stream, but in dry summers falls several feet; and when there are but a few gallons in the bottom, it cannot be emptied by la- ding out; which shows that it is supplied by a large bo- dy of water under ground.

Large's pond on the York road appears to have been one of these limestone sinks. The area is about half an acre: the water never rises above a certain height, and fal's in a dry summer ten or twelve feet, but is never quite dry.

A little below Coryell's ferry, now called Newhope, the Delaware is confined between two hills. This place is called the Narrows; and the river is said to fall 7 or 8 feet in about half a mile. The whole channel is full of rocks, and the water roars aloud in passing through .- From hence up to Paxson's Island there is in many pla- ces a sudden rise 10 or 12 feet high, called the Boother Bank. - This has doubtless at some time been the bank of the river; but if at some distant period the water of the river Delaware flowed over the top of Bowman's Hill, (which is probable,) this small alteration in its course must have happened long since, perhaps at the time of some great fresh.

above were then worn down and carried away. It is certain that large pieces of limestone and other stone are now found along shore that have been washed down a great distance. Different kinds of stone by continual rolling and wearing have become smooth and round, and are called boothers. The continual washing away of the earth by the full of rains and flowing of streams, has caused the winding hollows, and general inequali- ties that now appear; at least this broken roughness must be now much greater than it was 2000 years back.

The first settlers generally came from England, and were of the middle rank, and chiefly Friends: many of them had first settled at the Falls, but soon after remo- ved back, as it was then called, into the woods. As they came away in the reigns of Charles, James, Wil- liam, and Ann, they brought with them not only the in- dustry, frugality, and strict domestio discipline of their education, but also a portion of those high-toned polit- ical impressions that then prevailed in England.

At that early period, when our forefathers were buil- ding log-houses, barns, and sheds for stables, and clear- ing new land, and fencing it chiefly with poles or brush, it has been said that a hearty, sincere good will for each other generally prevailed among them. They all stood occasionally in need of the help of their neighbours, who were often situated at some distance through the woods.

Chronic ailments were not so frequent as at present; which was, perhaps, in part owing to the wholesome diet, brisk exercise, lively manners, and cheerful and unrefined state of the mind. But acute disorders, such as fevers, in various degrees-those called "long fe- vers, dumb agues, fever-and-agues," sore throats, and pleurisies, were then much more common than now .- The natural small-pox was peculiarly distressing-was mostly severe, and often mortal-and nothing strange that it should be so. The nature of the disorder being but little known, it was very improperly treated by the nurses, to whose care the management was chi fly com- mitted. A hot room-plenty of bed clothes-liot to as -and milk punch, or hot tiff, were pronounced most proper to bring the eruption out, and to make it fill well; and the chief danger was apprehended from the patient taking cold by fresh air or cold drink.

When wheat and rye grew thick and tall on new land, and all was to be cut with sickles, many men and some women became dexterous in the use of them, and victory was contended for in many a violent trial; sometimes by two or three only, and sometimes by the whole company for 40 or 50 perches. About the year 1741, twenty acres were out and shocked in half a day in Solebury.

The imposing authority of necessity, obliged the first settlers and their successors to wear a strong and coarse kind of dress: enduring buck-skin was used for breech- es and sometimes for jackets; oznabrigs, made of hemp tow at 1s. 4d. per yard, was much used for boys shirts; sometimes flax, and flax and tow were used for that pur- pose; and coarse tow for trowsers; a wool hat, strong shoes, and brass buckles, two linsey jackets, and a leath- er apron, made out the winter apparel. This kind of dress continued to be common for the labouring people until 1750.

Yet a few, even in early times, somewhat to imitate the trim of their ancestors, laid out as much to buy one suit of fine clothes, as would have purchased 200 acres of pretty good land. The cut of a fine coat, (now anti- quated, ) may be worthy of description. Three or four large plaits in the skirts-wadding almost like a coverlet to keep them smooth-cuffs vastly large up to the el- bows, open below, and of a round form. The hat of a beau was a good broad-brimmed beaver, with double loops, drawn nearly close behind, and half raised on each side. The women in full mode, wore stiff whale- bone stays, worth eight or ten dollars. The silk gown much plaited in the back; the sleeves nearly twice as

It is also supposed that the Delaware once flowed over the top of the Blue Mountain, and that there was a great lake on the north side of it; that the fall of a great southerly storm of rain, at the breaking up of winter, and melting of a deep snow, has so raised the waters that the obstruction of the water gap at the mountain was suddenly borne away, causing a vast rise of the wa- ters below, and producing proportionable effects .- Probably the obstruction at Solebury and other places | large as the arm, and reaching rather more than half

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HISTORY OF BUCKINGHAM AND SOLEBURY.

[JUNE

way from the shoulder to the elbow-the interval cov- ered with a fine holland sleeve, nicely plaited, locket buttons, and long-armed gloves. Invention had then reached no farther than a bath bonnet with a cape.

Something like this was the fashion of gay people; of whom there were a few, though not many in early times in Buckingham and Solebury. But the whole, or some- thing like it, was often put on for wedding suits, with the addition of the bride being dressed in a long black hood without a bonnet. There was one of these solemn symbols of matrimony made of near two yards of rich black Paduasoy, that was lent to be worn on those oc- casions, and continued sometimes in use, down to my remembrance. Several of these odd fashions were re- tained, because old, and gradually gave way to those that were new. The straw plat, called the Bee-hive bonnet, and the blue or green apron, were long worn by old women.

Notwithstanding the antique and rough dresses and unimproved habits and manners that obtained among the early settlers, yet an honest, candid intention, a frank sincerity, and a good degree of zeal and energy in adhe- ring to religious and civil principles and duties general- ly prevailed among the more substantial part of them.

The first surveys in what was then called Bucking- ham were as early as 168-, and the greater part were located before 1703. It is not easy to ascertain who made the first improvement; but most probably, from circumstances, it was Thomas and John Bye; and Geo. Pownall, Edward Henry, and Roger Hartley, Doctor Streper, and William Cooper, came early; Richard Bur- gess, John Scarbrough, grandfather of the preacher of that name, and Henry Paxson, were also early settlers. John and Richard Lundy, John Large, and James Len- ox, and William Lacey, John Worstell, Jacob Holcomb, Joseph Linton, Joseph Fell, Mathew Hughes, Hugh Ely, and perhaps Richard Norton, came from Long Isl- and about 1705.

The first adventurers were chiefly members of the Falls meeting; and are said to have frequently attended it, and often on foot. In the year 1700, leave was gran- ted by the Quarterly meeting to hold a meeting for worship at Buckingham; which was first at the house of William Cooper, (now John Gillinghams's. )

In the space of time from the first improvement until 1730, perhaps a period of more than 40 years, many circumstances and occurrences may be worthy of re- mark, and especially the difficulty of beginning in the woods. Building a house or cabin, and clearing or fencing a field to raise some grain, were the first con- cerns; procuring fodder for their small stock was next to be attended to: for this purpose they cut grass in plains or swamps, often at several miles from home, stacked it up on the spot, and hauled it home in the winter.

One of the first dwelling houses yet remains in Abra- ham Paxson's yard, on the tract called William Croas- dale's now Henry Paxson's. It is made of stone, and is dug into the earth where there is a moderate descent, about 20 feet by 10 or 12. At the end fronting the south-east was a door leading into the dwelling room for the whole family, where there was a sort of chimney; and a door at the other end, also level with the ground, led into the loft which must have been the lodging room.

rowed from the natives. After all their care and indus- try to provide for the winter, they must have struggled with many difficulties, and suffered much hardship in passing over that tedious and rigorous season, when the snow was generally deep, and the winds piercing cold.

In 1690 there were many settlements of Indians in these townships-one on the lowland near the river, on George l'ownall's tract, which remained for some time after he settled there-one on James Streiper's tract, near Conkey Hole-one on land since Samuel Harold's -one on Joseph Fell's tract-and one at the great spring, &c.

Tradition reports that they were kind neighbours, supplying the white people with meat, and sometimes with beans and other vegetables; which they did in per- fect charity, bringing presents to their houses and re- fusing pay. Their children were sociable and fond of play. A harmony arose out of their mutual inter- course and dependance. Native simplicity reigned in its greatest extent. The difference between the fami- lies of the man and the Indian, in many respects, was not great-when to live was the utmost hope, and to en- joy a bare sufficiency the greatest luxury.

While the land was fresh and new, it produced good crops of wheat and rye; from 15 to 25 or 30 bushels per acre.

It appears in an old account book of my grandfather, Richard Mitchel's, who had a grist-mill and store in Wright's town, from 1724 to 1735, that his charges are as follows :- wheat from Ss. to 4s. ; rye one shilling less; Indian corn and buckwheat, 2s. ; middlings, fine, 78.and 8s .; coarse, 4s. 6d .; bran, 1s. ; salt, 4s .; beef, 2d .; bacon, 4d .; pork was about 2d.

Improved land was sold generally by the acre, at the price of 20 bushels of wheat. Thus, wheat 2s 6d., land 21. 10s .; wheat 3s., land 3/. ; wheat 38. 6d .; land 31. 10s .; wheat 5s., land 5/ .; wheat 78. 6d., land 7l. 10s; wheat 10s., land 10/. When provender could be procured to keep stock through the winter, milk, butter and cheese became plenty for domestic use. Swine were easily raised and fattened. Deer, turkeys, and other small game made a plentiful supply of excellent provision in' their season. Roast venison and stew-pies were luxu- rious dishes, which the hunter and his family enjoyed in their log cabins with a high degree of pleasure.

Having generally passed over the era of necessity that attended the first settlement about 1730, and for some time before, they mostly enjoyed a pretty good living, were well fed, clothed and lodged; and though all was in the coarse way, yet their fare was wholesome and nourishing, their clothes fine enough for labouring peo- ple, and no doubt they slept as sound on chaff beds on the floor in the loft, as they could have done with all the finery that the inventions of later days have intro- duced. The domestic management that fell to the share of the women was generally well ordered. As soon as wool and flax were raised, they manufactured good linen of different kinds and degrees of fineness, drugget, linsey, worsted, &c. sufficient to clothe them- selves and families; were very industrious and frugal, and contented to live on what their present means af- forded, and were generally well qualified to make the most proper use of what they had.

Notwithstanding the engagements at home, and the difficulty of travelling in those early times, yet visits of friendship were frequent, not only to relations, but oth- ers. On these occasions, cider, metheglin, or small beer, toast of light biscuit made of fine wheat flour, and milk, butter, cheese, custards, pies, made an afternoon's repast. Chocolate was sometimes used; and in lack of other materials, the toast was sometimes made with rum and water. For common living, milk and bread, and pie, made the breakfast; the milk being boiled, and sometimes thickened in winter; good pork and bacon, with plenty of sauce, a wheat flour pudding, or dum- plings, with butter and molasses for dinner; and mush

Until a sufficient quantity of grain was raised for them- selves and the new-comers, all further supplies had to be brought from the Falls or Middletown; and until 1707, all the grain had to be taken there, or to Morris Gwin's, on Pennepeck below the Billet, to be ground. In that year Robert Heath built a grist-mill on the great spring stream in Solebury. This must have been a great hard- ship-to go so far to mill for more than 17 years, and chiefly on horse-back. It was some time that they had to go the same distance with their plough-irons and other smith work. Horses were seldom shod; and blocks to pound hominy were a useful invention bor- | or hominy with milk and butter and honey, for supper.

1829:]

COAL REGIONS.

409

Pies of green or dried apples were the universal stand- ard of good eating, especially with children. When milk was scarce, small-beer thickened withwheat flour& an egg, or cider in that way,made an agreeable breakfast.

The new stone meeting-house being built about 1731, several stone dwelling houses were built about that time and soon after; as Joseph Fell's, Thomas Canby's, John Watson's, Joseph Large's and Henry Paxson's .- Several frame houses were also built, enclosed with nice shaved clapboards, plastered inside. One of these yet remains standing on Thomas Watson's land, now John Lewis's. The boards for floors and partitions were all sawed by hand, and the hawling done with carts and sleds; as there were not many, if any, wagons at that early period.

Wheat was the principal article for making money. Butter, cheese, poultry, and such articles were taken to market on horseback. There were but few stores in the neighbourhood, and those kept but few articles.

Most of the original tracts wers settled and improved before 1720, and in 1730 the lands up the Neshamony and in Plumstead were settled; and in New Britain by Welsh generally. Large fields were cleared and pret- ty well fenced; low and swampy land was cleared out for meadow; and but little seed of any kind of foreign grass was sown, as the plough was seldom used to pre- pare for meadow; and red and white clover were only propagated by manure after they were first some how scattered about on the new settlement.

From 1730 to 1750, as the people were industrious, the land fresh and fertile, and seasons favourable, their labours were blessed with a plentiful increase; so that many plain dwelling houses and good barns were built, convenient articles of household furniture were added by degrees, and by the means of productive labour, moderate riches increased insensibly. The winter of 1740-41 was very severe. The snow was deep, and lay from the latter end of December to the fourth of March; and in the period above mentioned, there was general- ly more snow, and that lay longer on the ground thro' the winters, than of latter years. Easterly storms of pretty heavy rain, lasting mostly two, or three days, were also much more frequent.

Northern lights, I believe, are not so common of late years as formerly ; but of this I am not certain.

Houses for keeping school in were very few, and those poor, dark, log buildings; the masters, generally, very unsuitable persons for the purpose; and but little learning obtained at school. Schooling was 20 shillings a year, and the master boarded with the employers.

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The Register of Pennsylvania : devoted to the preservation of facts and documents and every other kind of useful information respecting the state of Pennsylvania, Vol. III, Part 114

Author: Hazard, Samuel, 1784-1870 Publication date: 1828 Publisher: Philadelphia : Printed by W.F. Geddes ; Number of Pages: 440

Author: Hazard, Samuel, 1784-1870
Publication date: 1828
Publisher: Philadelphia : Printed by W.F. Geddes ;
Number of Pages: 440