USA > Vermont > The Lake Champlain and Lake George valleys, Vol II > Part 1
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Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 | Part 5 | Part 6 | Part 7 | Part 8 | Part 9 | Part 10 | Part 11 | Part 12 | Part 13 | Part 14 | Part 15 | Part 16 | Part 17 | Part 18 | Part 19 | Part 20 | Part 21 | Part 22 | Part 23 | Part 24 | Part 25 | Part 26 | Part 27 | Part 28 | Part 29 | Part 30 | Part 31 | Part 32 | Part 33 | Part 34 | Part 35 | Part 36 | Part 37 | Part 38 | Part 39 | Part 40 | Part 41 | Part 42 | Part 43
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The Lake Champlain and Lake George Valleys
2 IRAALLEN FOUNDEROFTHE STATE CEVERMONT EOVUDED THISUNIVERSDIDAME
(Courtesy of the Burlington Chamber of Commerce)
IRA ALLEN STATUE AT THE UNIVERSITY OF VERMONT
The Lake Champlain
and
Lake George Valleys
BY WALLACE E. LAMB
VOLUME II
THE AMERICAN HISTORICAL COMPANY, INC. NEW YORK
COPYRIGHT THE AMERICAN HISTORICAL COMPANY, INC.
1940
1516355
CHAPTER V
Chittenden County
Addison County was divided in 1787, and while the smaller por- tion in the south retained that name, the remainder, extending north- ward to the Canadian border, was named Chittenden in honor of Vermont's first Governor, Thomas Chittenden. Prior to that date this new political subdivision had been a part of the counties of Albany, Charlotte, Bennington, Washington, Rutland and Addison in that order. Its history before 1787, so far as it concerns the parent counties, has been discussed in detail elsewhere. As originally cre- ated, it included the present counties of Franklin, Grand Isle and Chit- tenden, as well as a part of Washington. Franklin County was detached in 1792; the town of Starksboro was annexed to Addison soon after; South Hero went to help form Grand Isle County in 1802; nine townships were transferred to Washington County (then called Jefferson) in 1810; and finally, in 1839, the last change of boundaries took place, consisting of the annexation of territory to the town of Underhill.
From several points of view, Chittenden has had an extremely interesting development. This is true whether we consider its geo- logic history, the evidence of its Indian occupants, the unusual evolu- tion of the section around Burlington, or the important part the county has played in the life of the State. In addition to its historical heritage, another attraction of Chittenden County is its diversified and beautiful scenery. Whoever first called Burlington the "Queen City of Vermont" certainly caught the spirit of this metropolis. I have seen many so-called "Queen Cities" and "Queen Villages," but none of them wear their crowns as regally as does our stately Burling- ton, at whose feet to the west stretch the broadest waters of Lake Champlain. To the north is Mallett's Bay, with its long sand
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LAKE CHAMPLAIN AND LAKE GEORGE VALLEYS
beaches, its clear blue waters, and the scenic drives around about it. Directly across the county runs the temperamental waters of the Winooski River, its valley affording much variation in contour, and many interesting changes of scenery. Farther north are the special attractions of the equally temperamental Lamoille. In the east are the Green Mountains, and although Mount Mansfield is mostly within Lamoille County, that section known as the "Chin" is within the boundaries of Chittenden. The summit of Mansfield is the highest point within the State of Vermont, and presents a fine view to those who love to climb. Camel's Hump, one of the highest peaks of the Green Mountains, is entirely within Chittenden County. Considering the county as a whole, we are aware of such a variation of fine scenery as is not often seen in an area of this size.
This section of Vermont was a favorite hunting ground of the red men. With the possible exception of Franklin County, no sub- division of the State has yielded so many interesting relics of Indian occupation. We not only find the remains of Algonquin villages, but also are surprised by the amount of evidence indicating the Iroquois penetration of this area. Numerous fragments of pottery in various sections of the county point out the sites of the Algonquin communi- ties, for their earthenware was fragile and required much labor, with the result that its manufacture was seldom attempted except around permanent settlements. In some places the soil was found filled with fragments to a depth of several inches. Probably in some instances the sites represented camps to which the red men returned each sum- mer to cultivate crops of corn, beans, squashes, melons and tobacco with their crude hoes and spades of bones, wood, or stone, although the squaws did most of the work, of course. Concerning the Iroquois, it is doubtful whether they settled here permanently, in spite of the fact that Champlain's Indians told him so, and in spite of the great number of relics found here indicating their occupation. The places where these relics have been gathered were probably camp sites. Some of the more elaborate and attractive specimens found in north- ern Vermont are clearly of Iroquois origin because of their close simi- larity to those found in the Mohawk Valley, a fact which demon- strates that the Iroquois were not so entirely a nation of warriors, devoid of cultural attainments, as they have been sometimes pictured.
It is not surprising to find that, during the period of French ascendency in the Champlain Valley, land grants or seigniories were
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CHITTENDEN COUNTY
carved out of Chittenden County and presented to the favorites of the King beyond the Atlantic. One of the best known of these was the La Perriere grant, which was created in 1734 on both sides of the Winooski River, comprising the southern part of Colchester Town- ship, and including at least a part of the present city of Burlington. North of this tract was another seigniory which was granted to Raim- bault in 1737. As in other parts of the Champlain Valley, however, it was extremely difficult to persuade Frenchmen to settle on the sides of the watery avenue of conquest away from the shadows of their forts. As a result it was impossible for the proprietors to satisfy the conditions of their grants which provided for actual settlement within a given time. La Perriere's grant was declared forfeited to the French Crown. Raimbault's lands were retained until after the
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City
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BENNINGTON
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French and Indian War, at which time their disposal was left in Brit- ish hands. Needless to say, when New York made its own grants to this territory and employed the great Edmund Burke to plead its case, the French claim was annulled.
In the land controversy that developed between New York and the New Englanders who had secured their titles from New Hamp- shire, Chittenden County played a part, although the main battle- ground was farther south in the counties of Addison, Rutland, and
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416
LAKE CHAMPLAIN AND LAKE GEORGE VALLEYS
Bennington. As early as 1770, however, a party of New York sur- veyors, accompanied by thirteen Indians, was discovered at work at Burlington and Colchester by Ethan Allen and Remember Baker; but after promising never to return the men were released. To guard against further encroachments from New Yorkers, a blockhouse was erected at the falls in Colchester and this fortification protected the settlers until they abandoned their lands in 1776.
During the Revolution, Chittenden County led a comparatively quiet and serene existence because it was not filled with settlers. During the War of 1812, however, the inhabitants had ringside seats as the contending forces wrestled for the control of the Champlain Valley, and the people had many thrilling experiences, as related elsewhere. The economic development of the county since then has been so im- portant in the evolution of both State and valley that its history is somewhat the same as the story of the political parent.
Originally Colchester was the shire town of Chittenden County, but by special act of the State Legislature in 1790 the courts were removed to Burlington. Although there followed considerable con- troversy concerning the permanent location of the shire town and the county buildings, a legislative committee appointed in 1793 finally decided in favor of Burlington. In 1790 there were only 7,287 inhabitants within the county limits, but by 1810 there were 14,449. Charlotte was the most populous town in 1790, and in 1810 it was barely in second place. By that time it was nosed out by Burlington, which had stood seventh on the previous date with a population of only 332.
First alphabetically among the towns of Chittenden County is Bolton. It is located on the eastern border next to Washington County and is bordered on the north and south by the towns of Under- hill and Huntington, respectively. It is extremely mountainous, and includes a section of Camel's Hump. Across this township from east to west runs the valley of the Winooski. On more than one occasion it has been described as a land of boulders and bears, but the impli- cations of this statement are unjust. The town includes some good farm land, and had a thriving lumber business. On the other hand, Bolton unquestionably was a favorite haunt of bears, and hundreds were killed within its borders. Its charter was issued by Benning Wentworth, Governor of New Hampshire, in 1763, to Thomas Dar-
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· CHITTENDEN COUNTY
ling and associates. In 1794 its area was increased by the annexation of a part of Huntington, but in 1808 this addition was returned to the original possessor. A part of Bolton was also given to Richmond. The first proprietors' meeting was held in 1770, but little progress was made in settlement until after the Revolution. In 1790 there were 88 inhabitants, but this increased to 219 in 1800. The main industries were farming and lumbering, and town government was organized in 1794. By nature the community was destined to be sparsely populated, and today has only 325 residents.
Leaving the mountainous, rural landscape of Bolton and moving to the western side of the county to the shores of Lake Champlain we find the charming metropolis, Burlington, with its cultured atmos- phere and its commercial traditions. The charter of the original township was granted by Wentworth in 1763; its boundaries were decreased in 1794 by the cession of some of its land to Williston; while in 1864, when the city was chartered, South Burlington was separated from it. It seems probable that Burlington was named by error. Members of a Burling family, of Westchester County, New York, were extensive landholders in the various townships, although they were not among the original grantees of Burlington. Colchester and Williston were formed at the same time as Burlington and there is some reason for believing that it was intended that Colchester should be named for the Burlings, while Burlington was to have been named Williston in honor of its foremost grantee, Samuel Willis. Our forefathers were notoriously lax, whether in Vermont or else- where, when it came to records and accounts, and a clerical error in this case certainly would not have been unusual; yet it would seem almost fantastic to think of Burlington by any other name.
The first actual settler was Felix Powell in 1773, but others soon followed. The first proprietors' meeting was held in Salisbury, Con- necticut, in 1774, with Thomas Chittenden as moderator and Ira Allen as clerk. At that time special recognition was given to land claims of the Allen brothers and Remember Baker, particular reference being made to the road these energetic settlers had built from the Winooski to Castleton, which was seventy miles away. Baker and the Allens continued to purchase land from the original proprietors, Ira Allen at one time or another owning approximately five-sevenths
C & G-27
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LAKE CHAMPLAIN AND LAKE GEORGE VALLEYS
of the town of Burlington. When the American Army retreated from Canada in 1776, it was necessary to abandon the community, but resettlement was rapid as soon as hostilities were ended. Finally, in 1797, town government was organized.
In Burlington, as elsewhere among the early communities, small- pox reared its ugly head and presented a serious problem to the set- tlers. At a meeting in 1796 it was resolved, "That the Town recom- mend to the select Men that provided any Physician that will erect a Building in such place as they the selectmen shall approve of as retired, They grant full liberty for a permanent place for having the Small pox, under certain restrictions as they shall consider safe and it is further recommended that they would Grant no Indulgence of Innoculation unless such person go into the pest house prior thereto- and Continue there until he is perfectly Clensed."
Burlington was closely connected with the last years of Vermont's great Ethan Allen, and his sudden death. He took up his residence here in 1787. Two years later, in 1789, he and his black man drove over the ice to South Hero to visit a friend. So much time was con- sumed with recalling past memories and celebrating the reunion with old friends that it was nearly morning when the old war-horse departed for his own home. With him he had a load of hay. Sev- eral times during the trip the Negro called to him, but although he received no answer, he suspected nothing unusual until the Allen home was reached and it was found that Ethan had died of apoplexy.
It is almost incredible that, in that faraway year of 1790, when Burlington had a population of only three hundred and thirty-two, the University of Vermont was established, with an endowment of 29,000 acres of land scattered throughout the State. With the rise of Burlington, this institution developed into greatness, as related in the chapter on education.
Due to its geographic position, the tiny township was destined for economic growth. Among the first who realized the possibilities of commercial navigation on Lake Champlain the most important was Gideon King, who became known as "Admiral of the Lake." A fine trade with Montreal and Quebec rapidly developed, as down the Winooski and Lamoille rivers there floated great quantities of logs with no apparent end. Here also was built, in 1808, the second suc- cessfully operated commercial steamboat in this country-the "Ver-
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CHITTENDEN COUNTY
mont." During the War of 1812, Burlington occupied an important position. Generals Macomb and Hampton commanded soldiers here at one time or another. The University of Vermont was temporarily suspended as a seat of learning and its buildings were used instead
(Courtesy of the Burlington Chamber of Commerce) NEW CITY HALL, BURLINGTON, VERMONT
for barracks and an arsenal. Although at odd times British ships appeared off the shore they were never able to inflict any permanent damage.
One difficulty confronting Burlington as a lake port at this time was the shallowness of the water, which was only six feet deep at the end of the only dock. Loading and unloading had to be accomplished by lighters which, in turn, were emptied and filled by means of wagons driven a short distance into the water. Liquor casks and molasses barrels were thrown from the ships into the water and allowed to float ashore, with the former far outnumbering the latter.
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LAKE CHAMPLAIN AND LAKE GEORGE VALLEYS
When the Champlain Canal was completed in 1823, and the com- merce of the Champlain Valley shifted from a northerly to a south- erly direction, Burlington continued to grow. In 1825, when the community was honored by a visit from General Lafayette, great were the changes that had taken place since the War of 1812. Two years later, in 1827, we find the establishment of the first extensive manufacturing industry in the town, which was concerned with the making of glass. The Champlain Transportation Company, which was organized in 1826, expanded until it enjoyed a monopoly of steam navigation.
It was at about this time, the middle of the century, that Burling- ton underwent tremendous changes. In 1849 both the Rutland Rail- road and the Central Vermont Railroad connected it with the eastern markets, an event that marked at the same time the beginning of the railroad era and the decline of the steamboat age. In 1848, the "Free Press" became the first daily in the State of Vermont. By this time the territory around Burlington was rather denuded of its forests; but now unlimited quantities of logs began to come from Canada, thanks to the transportation advantages afforded by the railroad terminal, connected to the seacoast. As a result Burlington became the greatest lumber port in New England and third in the Nation. When high tariffs finally brought the decline of the lumber industry, this major economic activity was replaced by a large diver- sity of industries, including textiles and the processing of maple sugar. Today Burlington is a cosmopolitan city-the largest community in all Vermont with a population of 24,789. Of all the attractions this city affords, one of its finest is its beautiful sunsets. No one has seen all of Lake Champlain until he has seen a Burlington sunset, prefer- ably to the accompaniment of the University's alma mater song. Although geographically facing a setting sun, Burlington's spirit and vision have all the fire of youth and all the strength so typical of the Green Mountains.
In the southwestern corner of the county, bounded on the west by Lake Champlain and on the south by Addison County, is the town of Charlotte. It was granted by Wentworth in 1762. Many of the proprietors were former residents of Dutchess County, New York, and it is interesting to speculate concerning their position in the land feud between their native State and the Green Mountain Boys. The
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CHITTENDEN COUNTY
first actual settlement was made by Derick Webb, a German, in 1766, but his residence was not permanent. It was 1784 before colonizers came to stay. Once settlement started in earnest, however, it was destined to be rapid because of the fine soil, the valuable oak and pine timber, the proximity of the lake and pleasant scenery. As has been noted, in 1790 Charlotte led all townships of Chittenden County with a population of 635 inhabitants; while in 1810 it had 1,679, being exceeded only by Burlington, which held the lead by only eleven residents. Although now Charlotte has only 1,089 inhabitants, in the early days this township was one of the most important communi- ties. It was from Charlotte to Essex, New York, that a ferry was inaugurated by John McNeil in 1790. Until the arrival of railroads, it grew to be an extensive concern. The town was first organized in 1787. During the War of 1812 it was distinguished by the large proportion of its citizens who were willing to fight to preserve their homes.
According to tradition, one of the early families had an unusual experience with Indians. Mr. Webb, the husband, had been carried away into captivity. Soon after this occurred, another party of red men paid a visit to Mrs. Webb. They proceeded with their prepara- tions to set her house on fire. To any such action she naturally objected and protested strenuously. According to this narrative, the red men compromised by setting fire to the dwelling in accordance with their orders, yet departing immediately to give her an opportunity to put out the fire. This she succeeded in doing. Indians were notoriously governed by whim and caprice and it is difficult to understand many of their decisions. Their tenderness to Mrs. Webb is so mysterious and contrary to logic, however, that it renders the story almost incredible.
In 1814 the whole town was in an uproar when a British fleet appeared on its way to attack Fort Cassin on the Otter, where Mac- donough's base was located. Naturally, the settlers gathered near the shore to witness the strange sight. When within hailing distance one of the enemy ships prepared to fire on them. One of the Ameri- cans called out that his party was defenseless and unarmed, but in spite of this, cannon balls were discharged. Not much damage was done, however, the residents of Charlotte falling to the ground as a precaution. It is said that the commander of the offending ship was drunk when the orders were given to fire and that he was later placed
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LAKE CHAMPLAIN AND LAKE GEORGE VALLEYS
under arrest. When this same British fleet again appeared, on its return trip to Canada, there was a similar episode, but this time it was provoked by an ardent Yankee who fired a gun at one of the enemy ships. When the British replied with precision, the several hundred people on the shore speedily dispersed.
North of Burlington and facing Lake Champlain in the west is the historical township of Colchester. It is a place of beautiful scen- ery. Reference has already been made concerning the attractions of Mallett's Bay. Along the southern border runs the valley of the Winooski, while in the northwest corner we find the Lamoille. Throughout the township the land is rolling, and has produced large quantities of grain, fruit and hay.
Colchester not only attracted English settlers at an early date, but the Indians and French as well. An unusually large quantity of fragments of pottery and other evidence of Indian occupation has been found here and at one time or another there were undoubtedly Indian settlements in various parts of the town. Mallett's Bay, Col- chester Point and Porter's Point were evidently favorites among the red men. Although the evidence is not conclusive, there is some rea- son to believe that a French settlement also existed on Colchester Point in the seventeenth century, probably more or less closely con- nected with a French fort farther north. Like all other French set- tlements in the Champlain Valley, however, it was entirely dependent upon military posts and ceased to exist when French power began to crumble. Mallett's Bay was named for a Frenchman, Captain Mal- lett, who lived in a log cabin here. He was a strange man and there remains much mystery about him, but he certainly came here long before the Revolution-where from we do not know. He was an extremely old man when he died in 1789 or 1790.
The township of Colchester was chartered by Wentworth in 1763. One of the grantees was named Burling and it is believed that this town was supposed to have been named Burlington in his honor, but a clerical error changed all this, as has been explained. The first Eng- lish settlement was made by the Onion River Company, which was composed of the Allens and Remember Baker. Both Ira Allen and Baker arrived at the falls on the Winooski in 1772. Here they con- structed Fort Frederick, a two-story building of hewn logs with thirty- two portholes in the upper story. From the very beginning the tiny
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CHITTENDEN COUNTY
settlement was dominated by Ira Allen. This great Vermonter was born in Cornwall, Connecticut, in 175 1 and came to the Grants when only twenty-one years old. He speedily erected a barn, two sawmills, one gristmill, two forges and a furnace and soon was manufacturing bar iron, mill irons, forge hammers and anchors on the Winooski, earn- ing the honor of being the pioneer manufacturer in this part of the State. He and his associates also spent considerable money build- ing a road through the woods all the way from his settlement to Castleton. The Revolution temporarily stopped further develop- ment, but settlers returned with the beginning of peace. The town was organized in 1791, while the first town meeting was held two years later. The first court of Chittenden County was held at Allen's house at Winooski in 1785. He also effected the establishment of the Uni- versity of Vermont and wrote a history of the State. In his last years he lived in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, dying there in 1814. Courts continued to be held in Colchester until 1790, when the competition with Burlington became very keen for the right of being the shire town. Finally Burlington displaced Colchester in 1793. In spite of this loss of prestige this township continued to develop. At first there was considerable business rafting timber to Quebec. Later, many industries developed, making possible the modern manufacturing city of Winooski. There was a gradual increase of population from 137 in 1790 and 347 in 1800 onward, reaching 4,421 in 1880. Finally we come to a parting of the ways, for Winooski became a separate politi- cal entity and the story of this development belongs elsewhere. Col- chester, on the other hand, reverted to an agricultural community, which in 1930 had a population of 2,638. Through the efforts of Sena- tor Proctor, of Vermont, the United States Congress established a cavalry post in the township, the first building being started in 1893. This reservation was appropriately named Fort Ethan Allen. It was at one time the largest cavalry post in the Nation and the drills are very fascinating to watch. During the memorable flood of 1927, when the great bridge at Winooski was wrenched away by the swol- len waters, it was these soldiers who promptly built a pontoon bridge so that pedestrians could continue to cross.
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