The Lake Champlain and Lake George valleys, Vol II, Part 27

Author: Lamb, Wallace E. (Wallace Emerson), 1905-1961
Publication date: 1940
Publisher: New York : The American historical company, inc.
Number of Pages: 470


USA > Vermont > The Lake Champlain and Lake George valleys, Vol II > Part 27


Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).


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Another menace to our resort area consists of unsightly billboards that shut off fine natural views. The campaign against them is not new nor confined to this locality. It has accomplished results, but should be continued with greater vigor.


Roadside cabins may or may not decrease the attractiveness of our great resort area. Some I could name have actually improved the appearance of the landscape. Although many-probably a majority of them-still detract from beauty, their number is constantly decreas- ing. The tourists tend to patronize the more attractive cabins, a practice that forces other proprietors to improve their buildings and property in self-defence. Since it is profitable to own nice cabins and unprofitable to possess ugly ones, the days of the latter are appar- ently numbered.


A resort area must be healthful, and unsanitary conditions must not be allowed to prevail. Cleanliness is supposed to be next to god- liness anywhere; but is particularly essential to a summer paradise. Today not only the campers on the islands of Lake George, but also many of the inhabitants on the shores, use the lake water for drinking purposes. That they are able to do so without danger to their health in spite of the size of the crowds that flock here each summer, is a triumph in the field of sanitation. Probably few people, however, realize how difficult it was to attain this victory, what self-sacrifice and herculean labors were undertaken by a number of public-spirited men and women, and how precarious the situation would be today with- out the unceasing and tireless activity of the Lake George Associa- tion. Surprising, indeed, is the number of people who, through stupidity, callous selfishness or an anti-social complex, have sought to


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circumvent and oppose the elementary principles of sanitation. Peo- ple who should know better have sought to dump sewage and garbage into the lake, while still others have been engaged in yet more reprehen- sible practices. Nothing is as destructive to the name and fame of a resort as disease and lack of sanitation. Lake George is at present pure and spotless. It should be our resolve to keep it so. More power and also more support to the Lake George Association! I use Lake George as an illustration because of its size, the long and fierce battle fought here in the interests of health, and because of my first-hand knowledge of this crusade. On the other waterways there have been raging similar conflicts, marked by like self-sacrifice, tireless activity, and generally fine results.


The history of the development of the mineral springs at Sara- toga indicated more clearly than I can do by pen and ink the inevitable dire results which are bound to result from selfish, wasteful exploita- tion of those waters. Their exhaustion would not only largely spell Saratoga Springs' doom as a resort city, but would be a serious blow to our entire resort area. There seems to be little danger of this, however, because of the fact that the State government is in com- plete control over the springs.


There is also a social problem confronting us, although it would seem to be readily solvable. Some of the most attractive beauty- spots have become parts of wealthy estates; while some unattractive areas have been converted into spacious lawns ornamented with fine hedges, lovely flowers and pleasant pools. Huge sums of money have been expended for many years in this manner and these estates consti- tute charming show-places. Over the decades their owners have con- tributed much through taxes to schools and municipal government ; have given large sums through charity to the churches; and have ren- dered immeasurable assistance in many ways to the people of this area. Often they are in the van in protecting our forests and our lakes. In the field of sanitation, particularly, they have rendered invaluable service. Many permanent residents of our towns find their means of livelihood by working on these estates. Truly this resort area owes much to them; more than is generally realized.


Recently in certain localities there has been a growing influx of the lower economic classes. In fact, this has been greatly encouraged by the states that have granted free, or almost free, camping privi-


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leges for them. Most of these people are appreciative, law-abiding citizens, but occasionally we find some of the very scum of the Nation. We live in a democracy. Our summer resort areas should be open to all classes and not confined to those that happen to have money. Perhaps the people leading the most unpleasant existence are the ones that need a vacation in the beautiful and healthful out-of-doors the most. Perhaps they will be benefited the most and perhaps, at the same time, their communion with nature will benefit society the most. If anyone can repair shattered souls that somebody is likely to be Mother Nature !


The cleavage between the owners of the expensive estates and that variety of camper that has no respect for law, order, decency or self is particularly evident in the vicinity of public campsites. Natu- rally the proprietor objects to having his milk stolen from the prem- ises, his lawn filled with lovers and whiskey bottles, his nights disturbed with noise, and his property damaged. The hungry vagrant placed where he can gaze upon the estate in question where the store of worldly goods and food is ample for all occasions may ask by what right most of the choice beauty spots are possessed by the wealthy few. Perhaps, again, he does not think at all.


There seems to be no need for such a situation. The owners of the large estates can be allowed to live in peace; but at the same time all other classes can be given access to the out-of-doors without step- ping on anyone's toes. It would seem to be a poor State policy to place a camping ground adjacent to large estates because of the social jealously and antagonism it is bound to arouse. There are other areas that could be developed into public campsites of equal quality and accessibility. In the second place, when the State undertakes to create such parks, it is its clear duty to provide adequate supervision. In New York State such protection of the public does not always exist, and the blame for much of the friction between social classes in the vicinity of the campsites belongs with the government of the Com- monwealth. It is entirely possible for the glorious out-of-doors to be made accessible for all groups with injury to none.


Considering the resort business as a whole, its chief defect is the shortness of the season, which in many communities extends only from July Fourth to Labor Day. Many towns are insulated against this inadequacy with supplementary industries or occupations, chief


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among which is agriculture. They are fortunate in that they do not carry all their eggs in one basket. In the other communities, if sup- plementary industries do not exist and cannot be operated there profit- ably, attempts must be made to extend the season. The most inter- esting of these efforts are concerned with the development of winter sports. In this field Lake Placid and Saranac Lake have led the way and now enjoy the widest fame. A great number of other commu- nities have ventured into winter sports in the last few years, however, and snow-trains filled with skiers have ceased to be a novelty. One of the greatest of the recent developments in our New York counties has taken place at North Creek, Warren County, sportsmen coming pri- marily from New York, Albany and Schenectady to the ski trails on Gore Mountain. Most other resort towns in this vicinity have their own trails. A similar development has been taking place in Vermont. Here the Mount Mansfield region is now recognized to be one of the leading winter resort areas in the East. Other communities that have shown special interest in that direction are Middlebury, Burlington, St. Albans, and Manchester.


Just as there is in our gigantic resort area almost every conceiv- able variety of beauty, there also exists a wide diversity of recreational facilities, sports and entertainment. There is a wide range in the winter sport field alone. On some of the lakes we find all manner of skating events; veteran racers literally flying over the ice in their efforts to defeat opponents or create new world's records; skaters with sails gliding along before the breeze; couples skating together with graceful and rhythmic strokes; teams playing liner or the rough and tumble game of hockey; phenomenal figure-skaters and barrel- jumpers ; and sometimes picturesque displays by groups. Placid pos- sesses a huge indoor ice arena where one may always skate, regard- less of the weather outside. It is in the out-of-doors, however, where the flash of ringing steel on ice provides most zest. On our lakes there are still other thrills. Majestic iceboats sweep past us at sixty miles an hour with all the grace and assurance of an eagle. Although not possessing the popularity it once held, horse racing still attracts large crowds on some of our lakes.


On land the range of winter sports is fully as varied. Some are old and others are new; some are simple and others are breath- taking. Nothing will ever take the place of riding along country


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roads in a cutter behind a horse, the only sound disturbing the peace and quiet of the frozen countryside being the jingle of the bells. Neither will any form of winter sports ever entirely supplant the old-fashioned sleigh rides. Nestling comfortably in the hay, almost buried beneath blankets, and snuggling closely to a neighbor (pro- vided, of course, that she is preferable to freezing !) we are certain it would be difficult to find an adequate substitute for this recreation. Another simple winter pastime, apparently becoming more popular, is hiking far away into the woods to enjoy a steak din- ner over an open fire. This meal is no help for one who wishes to reduce. How good that food tastes, and how satisfying that hot coffee is! Here and there in our great resort area are a variety of toboggan slides, while occasionally we find Siberian dogs hauling sleds along forest trails as they do across the frozen barren wastes of the Arctic.


If you prefer thrills, we recommend bob-sled runs and skiing. At Lake Placid, the Mt. Van Hoevenberg run is a mile and a half in length down a precipitous slope. It contains twenty-six curves, includ- ing two hairpin turns and one shaped like the letter "S," yet the run has been made in only one minute 40.40 seconds. Spills are more infrequent than one would naturally expect, but this sport provides constant thrills to both riders and spectators, the latter assembling along the banked turns to watch the great bobs roar past. Skijoring (skiing behind trained horses) is a gentle sport, but mountain skiing, racing and jumping certainly do not belong to the weak in heart. Lake Placid alone possesses two hundred and fifty miles of improved ski trails, attesting the popularity of this sport. We may try a down- hill run, a slalom course, or the open slopes. Unless we are experts we will not attempt to negotiate ski jumps and leap out into space for over two hundred feet. It is difficult to imagine what could be more exhilarating than these great outdoor sports. On a snow-crested peak, with the world spread out beneath us, our problems and our worries seem so far away; we feel that we are such a small part of the universe. Our distorted views of life tend to right themselves as a result of our communion with our Maker, and ever downward we sail back to our everyday existence better fortified to meet the world's problems.


One of the simplest of summer sports is camping out. At the same time it can be one of the least enjoyable if undertaken without


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knowledge and intelligence. For amateurs a guide and cook may be recommended, for the joy of camping depends on a variety of factors which only an expert understands. In the first place, sleeping needs to be made as comfortable as possible. Boughs and rocks may be so annoying that morning comes not a bit too soon. As Stoddard has stated: "Roughing it is grand in theory, and sounds well in after history, but is bad in practice and often impedes if it does not entirely defeat the object for which it is undertaken." The guide will know from experience to select an exposed campsite in warm weather where the wind will keep flies and mosquitoes at a minimum. In cool weather he will choose a thicket, and in any case will not forget to consider the water supply and material for camp fires. Mosquito netting and pack baskets are both desirable. A compass should be carried to keep from getting lost; such hardy tools as a knife and hatchet should not be omitted; food supplies should be selected carefully; a gun might conceivably come in handy; elementary medicines may be needed; and, last but not least, some preparation should be taken along as a pre- caution against insects. Nobody should start on a camping trip unless properly clothed for that particular purpose, and the supply of blankets should be ample. Nights even in July and August can be unbelievably cold on islands, particularly if a north wind blows hard; and there are cold rainy days also in the summer when extra blankets seem precious. Provided that a camping trip is planned along these lines, it can be a source of great stimulation, although even then it is not enjoyed by the weak and faint-hearted. The latter would prob- ably prefer the safety, ease and hubbub of public campsites. For the strong and hardy there is no substitute to roaming at will, asking no odds of any man, among God's mountains.


Perhaps this wandering is not aimless. Perhaps we are lured into the wilderness by speckled trout. The best fishing is generally found in the early part of the season. As soon as the ice is gone, booted fishermen invade the swollen streams. At certain times and under some conditions flies are the favorite bait, but on other occasions the trout prefer earthworms, chubs or shiners. Trout fishing is an art by itself, far different than other types. This fish is both wise and temperamental. He becomes easily aware of our presence and is also exceedingly shy. Sometimes he darts and jumps at our bait; on other occasions he daintily nibbles or just watches. Varieties of brook


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trout also exist in certain small lakes where they may be caught by casting and trolling. The Wall-Eyed Pike is one of Lake Champlain's favorite contributions; while the king of all Lake George fish is the Lake Trout, although if one seeks a fighting fish we heartily recom- mend the Black Bass. There is as great a contrast between brook trout fishing and catching perch or bullheads (or sunfish) from an anchored position as there is between camping in the wilderness and stopping at a public campsite.


Perhaps, again, we seek the wild game of the forest. When the autumn days grow cool and the air has a wintry taste, rifle shots crack


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out at intervals and the veteran hunter responds promptly to the call of the wilds. The gun is taken down from its place on the wall to be carried by eager strides over the hills to some favorite deer watch. There is no cure for the fever of the hunt. Neither success nor failure seems to curb the mania. It lasts from year to year. Our hunter may prefer to be a lone wolf, or he may become a member of a party for the day, or perhaps for a week, camping in some old lumber shanty. Whether he likes to stalk his intended victim alone or prefers to pool his resources and luck with others depends on a variety of factors.


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In the regular deer season, the woods seem alive with the red caps of hunters, and the highways leading southward witness large numbers of cars proudly bearing on the sides the carcasses and antlered heads of bucks. Perhaps inside one of these automobiles there is some good-natured joshing at the expense of a novice who came face to face with a deer and became so entranced that he forgot to shoot until the buck bounded swiftly and easily out of sight. Perhaps again our amateur raised a shotgun when he heard the whir of a partridge, only to find that the ensuing kick damaged his shoulder tar more than the shot harmed his quarry.


One of the most enjoyable sports is canoeing, whether we travel over watery networks on long trips, or whether we spend an after- noon or evening gliding across an attractive bay or pond. For cen- turies before the coming of the white man, canoes filled with painted savages traversed many of our waterways. As we listen to the ripple of the water, we wish the past could be unfolded to us. Perhaps around this rocky headland, on some dim, distant day, there occurred a bloody fray as fleets of canoes of hostile red men clashed head on. Perhaps as moonlight bathed this charming little cove a white captive, given his chance for freedom, chose to forswear his civilized world forever in favor of some dark-eyed, copper-hued Cleopatra. Certainly the moon and the canoe seem to belong together; yes, that could easily have happened here! Perhaps we continue our reverie; perhaps on the other hand a fitful breeze deposits us gently but none the less com- pletely into the water, reminding us once more that a canoe is tempera- mental as well as useful.


To some, sailboats are preferable. It is not unusual to see these speedy, graceful craft beat back and forth before the breeze. Just as canoes seem to rhyme with moonlight, so do sailboats belong with sun- sets. There are few more beautiful sights anywhere. When the sun begins to sink across the western horizon, with the sky changing from gold to red and to purple, the sails seem to be writing the epitaph of the departing day on wings of poetry.


Others prefer to be propelled by gasoline-driven boats. The beauties of any waterway cannot be properly appreciated from the shore. No boat can bring a stranger to such close communion with so many of them, in as short a time, as the gasoline launch. It is


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faster and more dependable than canoes and sailboats, while it can reach places that are inaccessible to unwieldy steamboats.


Of all craft the steamboat is the most majestic. This stately, floating palace is roomy, comfortable, and a protection against unfriendly wind or weather. In times gone by it was absolutely essen- tial to the resort business; today this type of craft is approaching extinction and is primarily of historical importance. On Lake George where it has carried so many millions of tourists, even the attempt to convert the largest one into a showboat was not financially remunerative.


Perhaps when all is said and done one prefers the plebeian row- boat. At least it is fairly safe, is free from mechanical difficulty, and will go where we wish when we wish.


Many of our lakes and ponds contain water of great clarity, enabling us to gaze downward, seeing perfectly, for many feet. At the same time the water is also cool, coming as it does from mountain brooks and springs. As a result our resorts offer unusual bathing for hot summer days. On all our lakes and ponds we find the usual variety of swimming sports, while on some, aquaplanes provide plenty of thrills.


For lovers of horseflesh, probably no sport in this entire area has the attraction that racing possesses. In this realm, of course, Sara- toga ranks head and shoulders above all other places. When there rises the cry "they're off," the whole world watches. Here we find the multitudes. Here we feel far removed from wilderness camp- sites, yet actually they are quite near at hand. Our two resort extremes are in striking distance of each other.


There are many forest trails scattered throughout this area, built primarily for horseback riding. As a rule they are so plentiful and varied that the rider needs not long for new worlds to conquer. In addi- tion, fine golf courses and tennis courts abound throughout this entire area. It is probably not necessary to point out the facilities for picnickers nor the enjoyment possible in eating one's meals out-of-doors in the sum- mer time. The "hot-dog" is close to being an American institution. Everyone is acquainted with its appetizing smell, pleasant taste, and uncertain after-effects. From Rouses Point to Saratoga and from St. Albans to Bennington it is fried, roasted, boiled or eaten raw in prodigious quantities. Our eleven resort counties possess a wide and contrasting variety of attractions; the "hot-dog," however, is com- mon to all.


CHAPTER XVII


Industrial Change


Thus far we have considered only the major economic interests of the Lake Champlain-Lake George-North Hudson area. There are, however, a wide variety of other industrial activities which, although of importance to certain communities, are not typical of the district made up of our eleven counties. No history of this section would be complete without reference to them, although a detailed discussion of these industries is not of general interest. They cover a wide range including matches, furniture, wagons, skis, woodwork, shade rollers, broom handles, blinds, paper and wooden boxes, veneer packing cases, veneer panels, sashes and doors, plywood, caskets, wood nov- elties, collars, cuffs, silk, lace, shirts, shirtwaists, knit goods, gloves, pants, yarn, cloaking, suiting, underwear, woolen and cotton goods, overalls, sport clothes, children's suits, dresses, wallpaper, auto acces- sories, spark plugs, chemicals, brick, a variety of machinery, brushes, piston rings, paper bags, gas engines, cement products, nails, dry mats, bottled water, wax paper, needles, mineral paint, toys, brush fibers, refrigerators, brooms, fertilizers, poultry feeds, dyes, bobbins, screens, maple sugar products, confectionery, oat products, scales, fire clay, canning, cigars, condensed milk, lock-corner mailing boxes, tools, tile, and others. Of all our counties Saratoga has had by far the greatest general industrial development. On the Vermont side Chittenden now is the industrial leader, with Winooski being the nearest approxi- mation to a mill town.


In the early development of Saratoga County, General Philip Schuyler played a very important part. He was interested in a variety of enterprises, including the construction of canals. It is claimed that in 1767 he erected the first flax mill in the American colonies, and also that he built the second oldest cotton factory in New York State at Schuylerville. Other counties had their own claims to early fame.


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Warren County's John Thurman is said to have established, in 1797, the first calico printing works in America. The first attempt in New York State to manufacture cotton cloth is said to have been made at Greenwich, Washington County. Here also, in 1817, was established the first double spinner in America. Washington County was also hon- ored by the first manila paper-mill in the United States, erected in 1844 at Hudson Falls, which was then known as Sandy Hill. In Bennington County we find that pottery was first manufactured as early as 1793, this variety being the most famous of early American ceramics. In Chittenden County the first of Winooski's woolen mills was begun as far back as 1835, and this industry has been in continuous operation here ever since. The first glass factory in Vermont was established at Salisbury, Addison County, in 1813. The first electric motor was invented by Thomas Davenport in Brandon, Rutland County, in 1834. Here also were built the first stoves used in Vermont, thanks to the efforts of John Conant.


One of the early features of business activity was the market where goods were bartered, or bought and sold. For a description of this let us turn to Clinton County. One of the first acts of the Platts- burgh village fathers, according to Palmer, "was to provide for the building of a market-house and public scales. The market-house was erected at the east side of the square or 'park' in front of the court- house. It was used for several years, the stalls, four in number, being annually leased at auction. The scales stood about four rods south of the market, and here all the hay sold within one-half of a mile of the court-house was by ordinance required to be weighed. These scales were an old-fashioned, clumsy affair, provided with beam and chain, pulleys and cog-wheels, used for the purpose of raising the wagons off the ground. Between the market-house and the hay-scales a turnpike road was constructed along the south side of the square, while all north of this road was a quagmire, in which innumerable bull-frogs, of monstrous growth, held nightly concerts for the amusement of our forefathers."




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