USA > Vermont > The Lake Champlain and Lake George valleys, Vol II > Part 7
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CHAPTER VIII
Franklin County
Franklin County, Vermont, possesses a rather tortuous political history, having been at one time or another a part of the New York counties of Albany and Charlotte and of the Vermont counties of Ben- nington, Rutland, Addison and Chittenden. Since the complete his- tory of these older subdivisions has been presented in detail in pre- ceding chapters, however, no purpose can be served by repetition here. It is sufficient to state that Franklin County was created out of Chittenden in 1792. At that time it included a larger area than at present. Its first reduction of boundaries occurred in 1802, when Alburg, Isle LaMotte and North Hero were taken away to help form Grand Isle County; while in 1835 the towns of Belvidere, Cam- bridge, Johnson and Sterling were given to Lamoille County.
Franklin County has an irregular shape. Across its easternmost boundary we find Orleans County; on the southeast it borders on Lamoille County; on the southwest it faces Chittenden County; its western boundary is Lake Champlain, and on the north is located the Dominion of Canada. Geographically, it is rather similar to the counties farther south, having certain areas of rich farm lands, yet possessing other sections which are decidedly mountainous. On the other hand, it does contain a larger proportion of level land than its southern neighbors. The main rivers are the Missisquoi and the Lamoille. The former crosses the Canadian border in the town of Richford, and after pursuing an indefinite course in a generally westerly direction, enters Missisquoi Bay on Lake Champlain in the extreme northwestern corner of Franklin County. The Lamoille River is to be found in the extreme south portion. It forms, for a short distance, the boundary line between the counties of Franklin and Lamoille in the southern end of Fletcher Township, and then
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crosses the towns of Fairfax and Georgia before it enters Chittenden County. Perhaps the most interesting feature consists of the water- falls in Fairfax. Considered as a whole, Franklin County has as splendid a variety of scenery as the other counties to the south. Within its boundaries we find the Green Mountains in all their refreshing beauty, rich farm lands with their abundant harvests, unforgettable and attractive river scenery and, last but not least, the characteristic Champlain shoreline.
The Indian history of Franklin County is also similar to that of the older subdivisions farther south, this territory constituting a
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favorite hunting ground for both the Algonquins, and their con- querors, the Iroquois. They came here each summer to camp while they hunted for food and skins. Many of the townships of Franklin County contain traces of these temporary dwelling places, but the one of most importance is the town of Swanton. Here was at one time a settlement of the dreaded St. Francis Indians who, as the allies of the King of France, terrorized all of England's northern colonies until their main home in Canada was completely destroyed by the match- less courage and determination of Robert Rogers. With the close of the French and Indian War, the Indians of Swanton began their
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gradual withdrawal to Canada, but some of them lived here until about 1800, while occasional bands were accustomed to drift back to their old camping grounds until 1835 or 1840. The quantity of relics indicating their occupation is enormous.
During the period of French ownership of the Champlain Valley, that section of Franklin County adjacent to the lake was surveyed and its territory was divided into seigniories (land grants), but although actual settlements were made in Swanton none were of a permanent character. The lands granted to Douville, Beauvais, Lusignan and others constituted but a mirage on the outposts of French colonial empire. When the soldiers of the House of Bourbon retreated into the northland, the French settlers went also. The present French section of Franklin County's population is of more recent origin.
English settlers were as slow in coming as the French. From their point of view, Franklin County was remote and relatively inaccessible. There was much good land available nearer the older settlements. The counties to the south were, therefore, destined to be settled first. As a result there were no permanent settlements in Franklin County until after the Revolution. Although the evolution of this area was influenced by the quarrel with New York over land grants, nev- ertheless by virtue of its late settlement Franklin County was spared the bitterness associated with feuds of this description. Some of the townships were created by Governor Wentworth, of New Hamp- shire, while others were organized under the authority of Vermont. With the end of the Revolution, the first settlements were made, and at the time of the first census in 1790 Franklin County had a pop- ulation of 1,472. When the unit was organized as a separate polit- ical subdivision the next year it was known at first as York County. The choice of such a name is by no means logical because of the long conflict with the State of New York; but York it was for a short time until displaced by Franklin. By 1800 the population was 6,426, while in 1810 it reached 12, 119. By 1850 there were 29,586 residents. Since that time, although there has been some fluctuation, the population has remained nearly stationary, and in 1930 the number of inhabi- tants reported was 29,975. Throughout most of its entire develop- ment, the chief political and economic center has been St. Albans, which today has 8,020 inhabitants and is Franklin County's only city.
The chief occupation of the early settlers was agriculture. Lum- bering was carried on extensively, but one primary purpose of this
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industry was to have more land for raising crops. Much of the timber was shipped or rafted down the lake to Canada. Although there was at first considerable friction between Vermonters and Cana- dians along the border, pleasant relations developed following Jay's Treaty with England, and a lucrative trade strengthened their friend- ship. This continued until the passage of the Embargo Act in 1807, which completely ended this trade, that is, on paper. The residents of Franklin County objected to the insulting behavior of Great Brit- ain, but at the same time they were dependent on Canada for the very necessities of life. Smuggling was bound to develop under these cir- cumstances and promptly did. In fact it was conducted on such a large scale that United States troops were necessary to preserve the law. Even then the matter did not end. In their efforts to illegally obtain the supplies sorely needed by their families, men of Franklin County on various occasions resorted to bloodshed. Of these incidents the best known was the Black Snake affair of 1808. The Black Snake was a notorious smuggling vessel, owned by a St. Albans merchant. On one occasion the incensed smugglers fired on representatives of the law with telling effect, with the result that the former were arrested for murder, and one was executed. However much the residents of Franklin County disliked the policies of the national administration in stopping the trade which was so vital to this area, and regardless of any opposition to the war with England, the bulk of the population rallied strongly to the defense of the Champlain Valley when British invasions approached, and many fought bravely at the battle of Platts- burgh. After this event, relations between northern Vermont and Can- ada were more or less friendly until the rebellion of 1837. Ordinarily a Canadian revolt would not have greatly concerned Franklin County, but on this occasion the conspirators planned their schemes on Ameri- can soil. St. Albans in particular was a center of their activity. When events forced the rebels to seek a haven, they were greeted in friendly fashion by the residents of Franklin County. It was natural for the English to exaggerate American assistance to the rebels and to talk of retaliatory measures, and it was equally natural for many Ver- monters to accept at face value or to over-emphasize British threats. On one occasion two thousand Americans assembled at St. Albans and trouble was in the air, but serious difficulties were prevented by the arrival of Federal troops, under Generals Wood and Scott. It is very
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doubtful whether the Americans were vitally concerned with the out- come of the revolt one way or the other, but they had traditional sym- pathy for the underdog and their equally traditional satisfaction in witnessing the annoyance of John Bull. Although Americans have always respected the stubborn, dogged, unflinching qualities of our cousins across the seas, they at the same time have enjoyed the hum- bling of British hauteur on occasion.
In 1864 St. Albans was the scene of a Confederate raid, a small band of Southerners taking possession of part of the city and the funds of the banks located there. They then fled northward with over $200,000, but the leaders were caught after passing over the Canadian border. Here the Canadian authorities took charge and finally acquitted the Confederates on the ground that their depreda- tions were legitimate acts of war. This sequel was decidedly unpop- ular among the residents of Franklin County, who became inflamed against the British, but anger eventually cooled, particularly after the Canadian Parliament voted $50,000 to help defray the loss. Two years later, in 1866, St. Albans was the center of further trouble when it was used as a base by the Fenians, an Irish organization that planned to conquer Canada. They advanced a short distance over the border but rapidly lost all faith in the success of their project, and returned to St. Albans, where they fell into the hands of United States troops under General Meade, sent there to enforce neu- trality. Although the affair was of little importance to Franklin County, it at least provided entertainment and excitement while it lasted.
Probably no single factor played as important a part in the development of Franklin County as did the construction of the Cen- tral Vermont Railway. Its influence on St. Albans in particular was decisive and tremendous, while it deeply affected other communities as well. It constituted the jugular vein of this area and was the base of its economic history. (See chapter on Transportation.)
First alphabetically among the townships of Franklin County is Bakersfield. It is located in the eastern section, bounded on the south by Fletcher, on the west by Fairfield, on the north by Enosburg, and on the east and southeast by Avery's Gore and the Lamoille towns of Belvidere and Waterville. As originally granted in 1787 it was known as Knowlton's Gore. It was purchased by Joseph Baker, its first
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settler, in 1791, at which time it was named Bakersfield in his honor. Prior to 1800 several changes in its boundaries were made, but none since that date. Until 1794 there were only four families in the town- ship, but by 1800 Bakersfield had a population of 222. The next dec- ade was the period of greatest growth, the population increasing to 812 in 1810, but the town continued to grow until 1850, when it reached its maximum of 1,523. Then a gradual decline set in with the result that by 1930 the population was but 889. Town govern- ment was organized in 1795. Because of the lack of water power, Bakersfield was not admirably adapted to manufacturing, but various factories were in existence at one time or another. The earliest important manufacturing consisted of the production of potash salts, and there were apparently several potash factories. Other industries included tanneries, a fulling-mill, and the making of whisky, but the most important of all was lumbering. Today the chief economic pur- suits of the township are lumbering and dairying. The village is a
typically New England residential community.
Bakersfield has
deservingly won a reputation in the field of education, having been the home of two well-known academies now extinct, and being now the home of Brigham Academy which, although formed in 1878, is still actively serving the children of this portion of the State.
Next is the town of Berkshire on the Canadian border, bounded by Franklin on the west, Enosburg on the south, and Richford on the east. It consists of rich, fertile farm lands, drained by the charming valley of the Missisquoi River. Although the stream afforded mill sites, the fertility of the soil made agriculture the main occupation of the settlers. In spite of its location on the border, Berkshire had a quiet, uneventful history, being comparatively untouched by the excitement of 1837 and the Fenian invasion. The township was a Vermont grant made in 1781, but the first settler did not arrive until 1792, and the first town meeting was not held until 1796. In most respects its growth was similar to that of Bakersfield. In 1800 it had a population of 172 ; in the next decade it saw its greatest growth, ris- ing to 918 in 1810; until 1850 it continued to grow, reaching a total of 1,955 on that date; and after that a decline set in. In 1930 there were 1,234 inhabitants. From the beginning, Berkshire was very much a Yankee community, compared with its neighbors, and relatively few Canadians ever settled here. Its inhabitants conducted their town bus-
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iness in typically Yankee fashion, and when the various communities were bonded to pay for the construction of the Missisquoi Railroad the citizens of Berkshire bought up their town's share rather than expose it to the dangers of bonded indebtedness. Berkshire was the home of Stephen Royce, who was Governor of Vermont from 1854 to 1856, and of his son Homer Royce, who was Chief Justice of the State's Supreme Court for twenty-five years. The town's metropolis is the village of East Berkshire. Although burned in 1866, a new community arose over the ashes of the old. Farm machinery is manu- factured here today. East Berkshire is also an important dairy center and has two creameries.
The township of Enosburg is located between Bakersfield and Berkshire, bounded by Montgomery on the east and by Sheldon and Fairfield on the west. Here we find the attractive community known as Enosburg Falls, one of the three incorporated villages of Franklin County. By virtue of its position on the great falls of the Missisquoi, it was destined to experience an important industrial development. The grant was originally made by Vermont in 1780 to Roger Enos and associates. This is the same Enos who served as a general in the Revolutionary armies, and who held a command under Benedict Arnold when the latter led that mad march through the Maine wilder- ness prefacing his assault on Quebec. There can be no question but that on this occasion Enos conducted himself in a dubious fashion and was responsible for seriously impeding Arnold's progress, with far-reaching results. On the other hand, in justice to Enos it can be said that other officers with bigger reputations than his would have been overcome by the misfortunes which forever dogged the footsteps of Arnold's men. Another interesting fact about Enos is that he was Ira Allen's father-in-law. Although the township of Enosburg, which of course was named in honor of its leading proprietor, was created in 1780, it was not settled until 1796, and town government was not organized until 1798. In 1800 there was a population of 143, which increased to 704 by 1810. Enosburg Center was the first community of the town and was a place of importance in the day of the stagecoach. In time, however, it was replaced by Enosburg Falls, the greatest development of the latter community taking place after the construc- tion of the Missisquoi Railroad. A variety of industries was carried on here, including the operation of woolen and flouring mills and the
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production of lumber, carriages, lumber-wagons, and, last but far from least, patent medicines. From coast to coast Enosburg Falls became known as the home of Kendall's liver and kidney cure, healing oils, pain cures and many other medicinal products good for most of the accumulated ailments of man and beast. Large fortunes were amassed by the originators of these amazing remedies, and we trust that the nation's health improved in proportion. Enosburg Falls eventually became an incorporated village in 1886, and today (1930) it contains 1, 195 people out of a total of 2,093 found in Enosburg Township.
Next we come to the town of Fairfax, which is located in the south- ern section of Franklin County. On the west it is bounded by Georgia, on the north by Fairfield, on the east by Fletcher and on the south by Chittenden County. Although the township was granted by Gover- nor Wentworth of New Hampshire as early as 1763, it was not set- tled until 1783, and town government was not organized until 1787. The Lamoille River runs across the southern end, and here we find falls that are not only immensely valuable for water power, but also very attractive. Along the stream, and particularly around the falls, the town's major economic pursuits were bound to center. A cloth mill was erected as early as 1824, and in time Fairfax became a town of industrial importance. The village of Fairfax also became an important educational center. For many years it was the home of New Hampton Institute, begun in 1853, and today we still find here Bellows Free Academy. Fairfax is a very attractive village. Its view of Mt. Mansfield is unsurpassed and perhaps unequalled. Because of its natural attractions this community is becoming a pop- ular summer resort, whereas industries have departed until today the only important productive enterprises are lumbering and dairying. In the development of this section, surrounding the Champlain Valley, as a resort area, Fairfax quite definitely seems to have a future. Its population in 1930 was 1,249.
Fairfield is centrally located in Franklin County, and is bounded on the north by Sheldon, on the west by Swanton and St. Albans, on the south by Fairfax and Fletcher, and on the east by Bakersfield and Enosburg. It was the birthplace of Chester A. Arthur, twenty-first President of the United States, who was born here of Scotch-Irish par- entage October 5, 1830. It also has the distinction of being the larg- est township in Franklin County. When first granted by Wentworth
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in 1763 it did not have this entire territory, but the addition in 1792 of a large part of the town of Smithfield, now extinct, produced the wide boundaries of today. The first permanent settler arrived in 1787, and the first town meeting was held four years later. The growth of the community was more or less similar to that of its neighbors. There was considerable farming, but the inhabitants also were engaged in making starch, potash, and liquor and the opera- tion of sawmills and tanneries. In recent times Fairfield has devel- oped into one of Vermont's great maple-sugar producing centers, and also manufactures evaporating equipment. Its population as reported in 1930 was 1,541. As a town, it is notable for its beautiful and pic- turesque scenery, a fact which speaks favorably for its future. There are various streams within its borders that increase the attractiveness of Fairfield, while one of the beauty spots consists of Fairfield Pond.
The township of Fletcher is bounded on the north by Fairfield and Bakersfield, on the west by Fairfax, and on the southeast by Lamoille County. The principal stream is the Lamoille River. Governor Chittenden of Vermont granted the charter in 1781, and local gov- ernment was organized nine years later. The first settler was John Fullington, who came here in 1787 or 1788. After erecting a shanty, he returned to New Hampshire for his wife and children. While on the way back to his wilderness home he ate a raw turnip which resulted in his death. After he had been buried in a hollow-log coffin, Mrs. Fullington continued onward down the river to the home provided for her. Here she gave birth to the first white child born in Fletcher, and named her infant daughter Lamoille. By 1800 there were approx- imately 200 inhabitants in the township, and by 1820 this had increased to 500. As time went on the principal industries were dairy- ing, stock raising and the production of maple sugar, but the town never developed in proportion to its neighbors, and its 1930 popula- tion total of 667 is not as far as it might be above the 1820 mark. In fact, Fletcher has the dubious honor of being the least populous township in the county and the contest is not even close, Bakersfield exceeding it by more than 200.
Franklin is located on the Canadian border, and is bounded on the east by Berkshire, on the south by Sheldon, and on the west and southwest by Highgate. When originally granted in 1787 it was named Huntsburgh and was not called Franklin until thirty years
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later, in 1817. The first settlement was made in 1789, while town government was organized in 1793. From the very beginning, most of the inhabitants were farmers and their main occupation was dairy- ing. The numerous swamps located in the town also provided large amounts of cedar and ash. One of the most interesting geographical features is a pleasant body of water variously called Franklin Pond, Silver Lake, and Lake Carmi. Before the coming of the white man, Franklin constituted a favored hunting ground belonging to the St. Francis Indians, and many relics have been found that indicate their presence here. By virtue of its position, the town was considerably affected by the Embargo Act and the War of 1812. Its normal trade with Canada was legally shut off by the Federal government, and the settlers entered into smuggling operations on a large scale. The period of 1810 to 1820 was the only decade in Franklin's history prior to 1860 when a slump in population took place. On the last-named date the town reached its maximum of 1,781, and then started declin- ing. According to the last census it had 1,001 inhabitants. Who the extra one was I do not know. At the time of the Canadian rebellion of 1837, of the spectacular Confederate raid on St. Albans during the Civil War. and during the Fenian attempts to conquer Canada, Frank- lin possessed a ringside seat and apparently enjoyed the excitement caused by these events.
Next, believe it or not, we come to Georgia, although it apparently is not the one that Sherman marched through. It is located in the southwestern corner of Franklin County, and is bounded on the west by Lake Champlain, on the north by St. Albans, on the east by Fairfax, and on the south by Chittenden County. Although chartered by Gov- ernor Wentworth in 1763, town government was not organized until 1788. When Ira Allen explored it in 1772, he was amazed at what he saw. The growth of timber that he found here was immense, the rich soil promised great returns, the streams abounded with mill sites, there seemed to be a sufficient supply of building stone, and Georgia Bay was well situated for a shipping port. On his return, Allen gave a glowing report to his associates and they lost no time in buying up as many shares as possible from the original proprietors. Not until after the end of the Revolution, however, did the first settler arrive in Georgia; but from that time on its development was rapid. By 1790 it had a population of 340, and already was one of the most
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populous and flourishing communities in northern Vermont. By 1800 there were 1,068 inhabitants within the township, and Georgia held the distinction of being the most populous town in Franklin County until about 1825. An extensive lumber industry developed, primar- ily for the Quebec market. Huge crops were harvested and num- erous orchards were already bearing fruit. Finally in 1850, Geor- gia attained its population maximum of 2,686, but some of it was composed of railway workers who were here only temporarily while the railroad was being constructed across the town. Then came the inevitable decline and in 1930 Georgia had a stationary population of 1,090. No one can rob this pleasant township of its early leader- ship, however. In the earliest development of Franklin County, Georgia is entitled to first place. Because of her economic and com- mercial position at the outbreak of the War of 1812, the intense excitement that took place here can well be imagined. For many citizens, patriotism meant economic ruin. Many residents of Georgia were involved in smuggling cattle and other things to the British troops in Canada, while many others attempted to put a stop to this traffic. The patriot element was apparently quite strong, for the smugglers found it so difficult to get safely across Georgia that they dubbed it "Hell's Gate."
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