USA > Washington > Spokane County > Spokane > History of the city of Spokane and Spokane County, Washington : from its earliest settlement to the present time, Volume I > Part 45
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Before Joseph escaped over the Lolo trail deep alarm was felt in all the seat- tered settlements north of Snake river. Appeals were sent to the coast towns for arms and ammunition, and at many points in the Spokane section and the Palouse country settlers gathered for defense with their wives and children. James N. Glover, then conducting a store at Spokane Falls, contributes an interesting ac- count of the manner in which the danger was met by the settlers around the falls:
"We drifted along in that dull way until 1877, the year of the Nez Perce In- dian war. June came around and we began to get little glimpses of the conditions in the Lapwai country. We learned that chief Joseph and his followers had broken away from the reservation, had taken to the warpath and had killed two or three white men on White Bird creek near the Sahnon river. Meanwhile the government had ordered the second regiment. commanded by Colonel Wheaton to the scene. At that time we had mail once a week, carried on a cayuse from Lewiston to Pend d'Oreille lake. but I got my most authentic news through the Indians. Things here continued fairly qniet and I went on trading with the In- dians until about the middle of July, then a squad of Nez Perce Indians, who had been on the warpath, were sent over here to work up the young bloods of the Spokane tribe. They had a camp out near a little grove, just south of the present line of the Northern Pacific tracks. After they had been doing the war dance for a week, I gradually got alarmed. It seemed to me that the trouble was getting so close to me that I could almost smell gunpowder. I sat up one night and watched them at their war dance. Mr. Post and Reverend Mr. Havermale were the only other men then here. I watched the red devils from dusk till daylight. when they lay down to sleep. The next night Ed. Bradbury, afterward sheriff of Kootenai county, Idaho, came in and volunteered to sit up with me. It was a gloriously beautiful summer night and we could plainly see them dancing from the stoop of my store, where the Pioneer building now stands, at the corner of Front and Howard.
"While we were watching, I saw a procession coming along the trail from the four lakes country, as the Medical Lake section was then known. When I sighted the procession it was at a point that is now the corner of Riverside and Howard. I turned to Bradbury and said:
"'Ed .. I think we are up against the real thing.'
"That night every soul in Spokane except Mr. Post and his family was sleep- ing in my house. Bradbury went to the house and gave the alarm. He found Mr. Ilavermale at the rear end of the building trying to get out of a window. Mr. Havermale's daughter. Mrs. B. F. Burch, was on a pallet on the floor. She had a child under each arm, and was praying that if she had to go, she wanted to go just as she was with her children.
"All the time I was watching the procession, and when Bradbury returned. its outlines were a little more distinct and I could hear wagons. I turned to him and said :
" 'Bradbury, it's white people instead of Indians.'
"First came an old man named Crunk. a homesteader, riding a pony. He had an old bedspread over his head, which gave him very much the appearance of an Indian in a blanket. It proved to be fifteen or twenty settlers, men. women and children from the country west of Spokane. They had come here with the idea
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of taking refuge on Havermale island and building fortifications there. Other fortifications had already been built at Spangle, Pine Grove, Lower Pine Creek, and Colfax, and the settlers roundabout had been assembled at those places.
"They were all pretty hungry and the first thing to do was to get them some- thing to eat. By this time daylight had come. I had a skiff and we constructed a raft and moved them and their effects over on the island. ] had made up my mind to stand my ground, but after two nights of sitting up. ] had determined on the course that I would pursue -- call a few of the old Indians into my store and have a heart to beart talk with them as I had often done before. Many times the old fellows had told me of the Wright campaign, and the tears would run down their cheeks like rain.
"I called them in and closed the door. I asked them if they remembered the time when they were a happy and prosperous people. They said they did. 1 asked them if they remembered when Colonel Wright came and destroyed their wealth and made them a poor people. They said they did.
"I then asked them if they knew what this squad of Nez Perce Indians were here for. dancing the war dance night after night. They said they did.
"I then said at a hazard:
"'My friends, I know where Unele Sam's soldiers are. They are very near here, and I can call them here at any hour. Do you want to have the last rem- nants of your people wiped from the face of the earth? If you do not, see that these Indians leave here and leave here for good before noon.'
"They promised me, went directly to the camp, and before noon there was not a sign of an Indian to be seen there.
"I don't know whether providenee so ordered it or not, but it happened that between eleven and twelve o'clock the following day Colonel Wheaton with ten companies of soldiers marched into Spokane.
"Among the Indians at the conference at my store were Curly Jim, who is still alive; George, Old Totonahee and Old Enoch.
"The regiment went into camp right by my store. General O. O. Howard, in whose honor I named Howard street, was with the command. The second day after the arrival of the troops, they held a council with the Indians at a point that is now in Union Park. Chief Garry and several other chiefs were there, in all about three hundred or four hundred Indians came to the council. Howard addressed them. He told them what the Nez Perces had been doing and that they had been run ont of the country and might never be allowed to return. He reminded them that the Spokanes had been at war once with the United States and if they went to war again they would be severely dealt with. On the other hand, if they behaved, they would be taken care of. Chief Garry, an old skulker and hypoerite, bowed his head and said nothing. Enoch, a sub-chief, a man of prineiple and a good man, said he had always been at peace with the whites and always intended to remain their friend, as they had always been fair to him.
"A few days later General Howard and Colonel Wheaton left companies ] and H at Spokane, and went with the rest of the command to the Lapwai eoun- try. The two companies remained here about six weeks, and a few days after they had left General Sherman with an escort of twelve or fourteen men arrived here from Fort Benton over the Mullan trail on his way to Walla Walla. The general
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and his party took lunch with me and spent the day here. He had camped the night before on Lake Coeur d'Alene, and as I afterwards learned had selected then the site for Fort Sherman.
"At that lunch I made the most earnest plea of my life, urging the general to - order the two companies to return here and go into winter quarters. He gave me no encouragement, but listened very attentively to all I had to say. He and his party started for Walla Walla about four o'clock that afternoon.
"As soon as I could get a team and make my arrangements, I started for Walla Walla to lay in my winter's supply. I made my purchases and had almost reached home on the return, when a man rode up behind my wagon and called ont:
"'Mr. Glover. I've got good news for yon.'
"It was 'Doc' E. J. Philleo, who now has a large ranch on Rock creek in this county.
"'Out with it, Doc,' I said.
" General Sherman has ordered Companies H and I to return to Spokane and go into winter quarters.'
"I hastened home and the next day after my arrival in came Colonel Conrad and Captain Daggett with the two companies. I was so glad to see them that I said :
"'Colonel. I'll move right out of my house and take another, and that house will be yours. There is a big hall overhead that will answer for your commis- sary.'
" "That's all right, Mr. Glover, but what about Inmber to build quarters for my men?'
"I answered: 'I have some logs out there in the woods, but no teams to hanl them. If you will have your men and mules bring in the logs. I'll file my saw and cut your lumber.'
"'All right. Glover; but who'll run the store and postoffice?'
"'Well. I guess business isn't so brisk that I can't attend to that. too.'
"He had the logs hauled in and dumped into the pond in no time at all. and I cut out enongh lumber to build barracks for the two companies and for a house for Captain Daggett. Daggett paid me $25 for a lot 30x112 feet, in about the center of the block facing sonth on Main. between Stevens and Howard. The Real Estate block now ocenpies that ground.
"They lived comfortably here all winter and allowed me to furnish their sup- plies, nearly everything they wanted. They remained at the falls until May, 1878. when they went to Fort Sherman. Their barracks were on what is now Main street in front of the Grand Hotel, corner of Main and Howard."
In an interview reminiscent of the Nez Perce war, M. M. Cowley says: "I was postmaster at Spokane Bridge during those stirring days and received the mail from the post riders, mounted on the hurricane decks of cayuses. The riders carried horse mail sacks. Their arrival and departure was watched with interest by the people of the settlement. The riders would come in from Montana, after changing horses at the dozen or more points. There was a great deal of ceremony about the way they would draw up their sweating animals. toss the mail to the
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official designated to receive it, and, after a hurried meal, mount another eayuse and hasten on to the next stopping place.
"But the Coeur d'Alene Indians who were friendly gave us information from two to three days in advance of our own despatch riders. In this way we were able to keep in touch with the operations of the Indians. Stel-Stel-Lame, which means 'Big Thunder,' used to come to the settlement giving us the latest news, which generally turned out right. One instance in particular shows that he and his tribesmen knew the interior workings of the enmpaign. The Indian report came that General Howard had sent an officer and soldiers against the Nez Perees on Camas Prairie and the white men were killed. The report was discredited by friends of General Howard, who insisted that Chief Joseph was unable thus to outwit the trained soldiers, but it turned out to be true, as did most of Big Thun- der's advice to us. He told us 'Joseph has the best of us.' He had told the truth, as we aseertained later: the troops were in great peril, as the Indian sharpshooters were pieking off the best men one by one, and their continual firing kept the whites away from the stream and they were unable to get water for their siek and wounded. The bravery of the men was never questioned, but when Howard asked for volunteers and not a man offered to go, the old general himself gathered up the canteens in his one hand and started for the stream. After that he had no difficulty in securing men to carry water. Jackson's cavalry relieved the situation.
"We were more than ordinarily interested in the outcome of this engagement. There were two outlets for the Indians, one of them by the way of Spokane Bridge and the other by the lower pass. We knew the Indians wanted our stores and we prepared in a measure to defend them, as well as the handful of people in the settlement. Believe me, it was with a feeling of relief that we heard the news from the Indian courier that the Nez Perees were breaking for the lower pass. General Miles and his force afterwards captured Chief Joseph near the boundary.
"'This Howard man puzzles me,' said an Indian of the Nez Perees in council. when the terms of the treaty were under discussion. 'He preaches peace, and yet he fights like a warrior of old. I will see whether he is a Christian or a soldier.'
"Well, that Indian was a natural born strategist. We went to conneil and while the serivners were drawing up the treaty, he spoke through an interpreter, sub- stantially in these words: 'I have something to say.' When told he was privi- leged to speak, he said, 'who is going to put us on the reservation if we don't want to go?' General Howard is quoted as having replied, with a show of author- ity and a little impatience. The Indian then stepped to the outer edge of the eirele and pieked up as much earth as he could hold between his two fingers and shouted in defianee: 'When I im like that you may do it, General Howard, but not before" This irritated the general and he ordered the guards to arrest the man. While he was being hustled out. he threw baek his head and shouted a single word, so that all could hear. It was 'Soldier!"
Vol. 1 -2x
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CHAPTER XXXVII
SOME FIRST THINGS BY THE FALLS
SPOKANE'S FIRST "CIVIC CENTER -FIRST WHITE CHILD-FIRST BOARDING HOUSE, HOTEL AND RESTAURANT-FIRST LAW OFFICE, WATER SUPPLY, CHURCH, BRIDGE, TELE- PHONE, ETC .- FIRST CHRISTMAS TREE AND FIRST FOURTH OF JULY CELEBRATION- REMINISCENCES OF FRANCIS H. COOK-APPEARANCE OF THE TOWN IN 1880-FIRST TOWN GOVERNMENT-START OF THE FIRE DEPARTMENT-J. T. DAVIE TELLS OF THE FIRST BRICK KILN AND FIRST BRICK BUILDINGS-HISTORY OF THE PUBLIC LIBRARY.
"Distance is nothing; it is only the first step that counts." -Mme. du Deffand.
A FTER the Nez Perce war, the little settlement clustered around the present corner of Howard and Front. On the southwest corner was the store owned by James N. Glover, location of the postoffice. On the north- west corner were two frame buildings occupied by officers of the troops. The north- east corner was vacant. and Mr. Glover's residence stood on the southeast corner. On the southwest corner of Stevens and Front was a boarding house owned by James Masterson. With the exception of the log barracks occupied by the sol- diers, these were the only buildings.
The first white child born at the Falls was the daughter of Mr. and Mrs. W. F. Bassett, in a cabin which stood about ten rods from the Post street bridge. Her parents moved to the Four Lakes country soon after her birth, and she was drowned there. July 4, 1875. Mr. Bassett was the millwright who constructed the first little sawmill for Scranton and Downing.
Among the first white children born near the present city was a son of Mr. and Mrs. Sol Ziegler, living on Moran prairie, in October, 1872.
Writing of first things in Spokane, Rev. T. G. Watson. pioncer Presbyterian minister, made the following record a few years prior to his death:
"Dr. Masterson had a boarding house on Front and Stevens in 1877: but W. C. Gray seems to have been the first to build a hotel proper, the California house -- burned down partially, and rebuilt and enlarged into the Windsor, which again went down in the great fire of 1889.
"The first restaurant was opened by S. T. Arthur, or possibly by Charles Carson. It is said of the latter that at first he had to be steward, clerk, cook and dishwasher, but would go behind the screen and repeat his orders as if there were a dozen waiters in attendance.
"The first law office was opened by J. J. Browne in 1878.
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"The first water supply was chictly in tanks, brought from the river. The waterworks were introduced in 1884, but hard times made it necessary for thirty citizens to buy them up and hold them one year till a city election authorized the issue of bonds. The floating of these bonds was one of the hardest things under- taken in the history of the city. Mayor Cannon and Chairman R. W. Forrest de- served great credit for their final sueeess.
"The first church organized was the First Congregational, though a Methodist Episcopal class was started about the same time, possibly before. That was in the spring of 1879. However, Mr. Havermale had started a Sabbath school in Glover's hall in 1876. and this being given up, a new one was started by the Rev. H. W. Stratton in 1878.
"The first Baptist and Episcopal churches came in 1881-82, and the first Presbyterian in 1883."
Mrs. Stella Newell Clarke, a resident of Spokane since 1879, reealls the fol- lowing pioneer events: "The first bridge was built across the river at Howard in September, 1881. The first brick block. "The Wolverton.' was completed that same month. We also, in that eventful month of September, had a visit and speech. in Graham's hall. corner of Main and Howard, from Governor Newell of the territory of Washington. The first furniture store was owned by Peter Deuber. who died in 1910. Morris, a real Englishman, had the first picture store and newsstand. I am still the proud owner of articles from stores of Deuber and Morris and Rima's jewelry store. I think the first hardware store and tinshop was opened in 1880 by A. K. Clark and Ed. Knight, on Main avenue. near the lloward corner. They also, with Mr. Wolverton, were the first to occupy the Wol- verton block on Riverside. Clark, Knight and Clarence White stretched the first telephone wire in Spokane. The line ran from a hardware store to a newspaper office where Mr. White was employed."
"We enjoy simply a semi-weekly mail service," said the first issue of the Spo- kane Times. April 24. 1879. "Small favors from Unele Sam are thankfully re- ceived, larger ones in proportion. This section of country is certainly entitled to a tri-weekly mail, at least, inasmuch as there are two important military posts north of us, and a rapidly increasing settlement all over the country."
The Spokane Chronicle says that a little steamer from Stanley Brothers, in Massachusetts, puffing along the streets of Spokane in 1900. with F. O. Berg steering it, was the first automobile seen in this city. The ear had previously done service in Portland, Oregon, for two years. Mr. Berg kept it righteen months. traveled 7,000 miles in it, and then sold it to a laundryman.
J. R. DePugh and William Dozier were the first settlers on Five Mile prairie, spring of 1879. The same season came G. W. White. J. F. Strong and Charles Wilson. In 1881 a friendly Indian warned the settlers on the prairie that they were in danger of massacre, and the alarmed homesteaders gathered at the place of J. S. Allen, while about thirty volunteers came out from Spokane. Guards were posted, but no attack was made. though some alarm grew out of an aeci- dental discharge of a gun.
Spokane Typographical Union was chartered by the International organiza- tion in August, 1886. George E. Epperson was the first president. H. W. Green- berg, who at one time owned a third interest in the Daily Review. is the only char-
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ter member of the union, now living here. N. J. Laumer, still a resident of the city, came from a union in the east shortly after the charter had been received and was the first elected president of the local union and the first delegate ehosen to attend the international convention.
Shortly after the Typographieal Union was on a sound footing, in cooperation with the Carpenters' Union. it started a small circulating library, of which E. J. Tamblin was the first librarian.
"In 1883," writes Mrs. C. L. Hathaway. of the publie library, "a number of our Spokane women, realizing the need of a library and reading room, made a house to house eanvass solieiting books. Among the carnest workers were Mrs. I. S. Kaufman. Mrs. Eugene Fellowes, and the Rev. T. G. Watson. They organ- ized the Spokane library in 1881, with Mrs. Fellowes as first librarian at a salary of $25 a month. Later the labor unions had a reading room and small library, and April 6. 1891. they consolidated with the Spokane library and the name was changed to the Union Library association, E. J. Tamblin librarian.
"In October. 1891. F. L. Price was elected librarian, but owing to ill health he resigned, and in January, 1895, Miss Emma Driscoll was elected librarian
"In August. 1891, the name was changed to the Spokane City Library and the membership fee was one dollar a year, which was abolished by aet of the city eoun- eil in January, 1901. and the library made free.
"In April, 1902. Mrs. Estelle Deffenbaugh was appointed librarian. This year a number of citizens appealed to Andrew Carnegie for a library building, as we had outgrown our quarters in the city hall and were sadly in need of a larger home for our books. Mr. Carnegie responded with a donation of $85.000, and on De- cember 18, 1905, we moved into our present building on Cedar street between River- side and First avenues. For the site A. B. Campbell donated a block of land costing $15.000. triangular in shape and bounded by three streets, giving the li- brary abundance of light, air and a good lawn. March 14, 1907. the library was put under the state law.
"Mrs. Deffenbaugh was suecceded as librarian by Miss Alta Stansbury in Sep- tember, 1909, and in September. 1911. the Rev. George W. Fuller was appointed librarian."
"For the first time in the history of Spokan Falls," observed the Times in its issue just before the holidays, 1879. "it has been decided to have a public Christmas tree and entertainment on next Christmas eve. The management will be in the hands of the officers and friends of the Sabbath school." The following committees were appointed and accepted by the school:
Executive committee-Mr. Cook. Mrs. Nosler and Miss Peet.
Finance-Mr. Clark. Miss Ida Ellis, Miss Rilla Masterson, Miss Ama Water- house and. Mrs. Mollie Wood.
Musie-Dr. Gandy, Mrs. Cook and Olly Ellis.
Decoration-Mrs. Warner. Miss Post and Curtis Dart.
Tree and evergreens- Lafayette Dart. Mr. Rue and Herbert Pereival.
Room-Messrs. Lewis. Whitten and Muzzy.
Presents-The teachers.
Cornucopias-The two Bible elasses, with Mrs. Shannon as chairman. Popcorn-Mr. Rima, Miss Muzzy and Miss Edith Cowley.
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"The celebration at this place on the fourth," reported the Times of July 10, 1879. "was a grand success, and with the exception of the slight rainfall in the afternoon, all who participated considered it one of the most pleasant days they had spent for a number of years."
J. M. Nosler was president of the day. After the audience was called to order prayer was offered by the Rev. S. G. Havermale, D. F. Percival followed with an address of welcome, the audience sang "America," J. T. Lockhart read the Dec- laration of Independence, "Hail Columbia" was sung by the assemblage. "The oration of J. J. Browne, Esq.," says the Times, "was a well rendered piece of ora- tory." Mr. Browne so wrought on the patriotic fervor of one of the audience that he brought out the exclamation, "Bully for the Boston tea party." Mr. Rowe sang as a solo "The Star Spangled Banner." the Glee Club joining in the chorus.
"After dinner the audience was called together by the firing of the anvil, when toasts were offered and responded to by those called on. Next was an address of welcome to the Northern Pacific railroad by Dr. Waterhouse, which was re- sponded to by Mr. Weeks, chief of the surveying party, who said that he felt safe in saying that by another Fourth of July the people of this part of the coun- try would hear the whistle of the locomotive mingling with the anvil.
"The crowd next adjourned to the baseball ground to witness a game between a nine picked from the survey party and the Spokan Falls club. The surveyors had their choice and took the field. The Spokans made thirteen runs and then took the field, the surveyors making eight runs before getting out. At the con- clusion of this inning the rain began to fall, and the game was called by the um- pire, Captain Pease, the score standing : Spokans, 13; Surveyors. 8. This ended the afternoon's sports.
"In the evening a large number assembled in the hall, and although the build- ing was crowded, a very enjoyable time was experienced. Dancing was kept up until a late hour. The supper, which was served at the California house about twelve o'clock, was gotten up in good style."
FRANCIS H. COOK AND THE FIRST NEWSPAPER
Francis H. Cook, who started the first newspaper, the Times. came to Spokane in the spring of 1879. The plant he brought from Tacoma, by way of Portland, and thence by boat up the Columbia and the Snake to Almota, Whitman county. At Almota the press and type were transferred to a wagon and started for Spo- kane, but bad roads delayed the editor and his outfit at Colfax, and while waiting there for the mud to dry, he published two issues of his paper. Cook started for Spokane April 29, 1879, with two wagons drawn by sixteen horses, and the outfit was six days on the road between Colfax and Spokane. C. A. Cole accompanied him, and carried the newspaper mail to Colville on horseback. Spokane's popula- tion was then about 150.
Recalling pioneer days and conditions, Mr. Cook wrote the following historical review in June. 1909:
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