History of Dane County, Wisconsin, Part 109

Author: Butterfield, Consul Willshire, 1824-1899; Western Historical Co., Chicago, pub
Publication date: 1880
Publisher: Chicago : Western Historical Company
Number of Pages: 1304

USA > Wisconsin > Dane County > History of Dane County, Wisconsin > Part 109

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We arrived at Milwaukee on the morning of Saturday, May 23, and, as the stage left there for Madison but three times a week, or on Monday, Wednesday and Friday, we remained until Monday morning, the 25th. We arrived at Janesville at 11 P. M., and at Madison on the evening of May 26. Our first view of the dome of the old capitol was from the elevation north from Deming Fitch's farm, northwest quarter of Section 25. The town site was then mostly covered by a forest of small oaks. The forest along the way through Greenbush was so dense that we did not obtain another view of the capitol until near the south corner of the Capitol Square. The only building between that corner and the outlet of Dead Lake [Lake Wingra] was the log house of Thomas Dunn, which was a short distance below the court house. The City Hotel was then the stage house, and stood upon the corner where the Fairchild Block now stands. It was a story-and-a-half house, and was kept by A. A. Bird. It was there I took my first repast in Madison. An incident occurred during my first hours in the place that I have well remembered. On crossing the street, after our evening repast, to the east gate of the Cap- itol Square, accompanied by a fellow-passenger, we met a person with a surveyor's chain, who walked to the capitol with us, and was ready to reply to our various questions, occasionally at- tracting our attention to some new beauty of the place. As we passed to the west door, and took a view of the town in that direction, I embraced the opportunity to inquire for the resi- dence of Rev. S. E. Miner, to whom I had letters, when I found I was talking with him. He had just been using the surveyor's chain for the purpose of preparing for the foundation of the Congregational Church. That building was finished and occupied on the approach of the com- ing winter. Mr. Miner lived in a frame house that stood on the lot now occupied by Wayne Ramsay, on the corner of Carroll and Gorham streets. It was then owned by R. T. Davis, and afterward by the successor of Mr. Miner, Rev. Charles Lord. The only house in that vicinity was on the opposite corner, where George B. Smith lived.

The block upon the shore of Lake Mendota, between Wisconsin avenue and Pinckney street, was soon after purchased by Julius T. Clark, who then predicted that that ridge would become

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desirable residence property, although it was then reached by passing through a thick growth of oaks, and no streets were defined after leaving the capitol grounds. The streets. as well as the lots were covered by a forest of small oaks. John Mallo had a brick-yard on the third block west of the corner of the capitol square. The lot where "Brown's Block," formerly " Bruen's," now stands, was mostly covered by small trees, as well as the avenue adjoin- ing, and James Morrison and others had it in use for their pig-sties. The jail, which was a rude log structure, stood near the small brick schoolhouse. It had two rooms, one of which was reached by passing through the first, and the inner room had some of the ancient appliances for securing criminals.

The school in the " Little Brick," I believe, was then under the supervision of Royal Buck, who was succeeded by David H. Wright; this house and the old capitol were the only places where religious services were held until the Congregational Church edifice was completed.

There were four hotels when I came, and the fifth was re-opened a few months after. These were the American, kept by James Morrison ; the Madison House, by Welch & Bushnell ; the City Hotel, by A. A. Bird, and the National, by R. W. Lansing. The Lake House was re-opened the same autumn by J. P. Mann.

The number of inhabitants was then said to be 400, which I believe was a liberal estimate. Surrounding the square were the following buildings, as nearly as I can remember : Between the north and east corners was the building which was early known as "The Tiger," the American Hotel, W. W. Wyman's brick house (unfinished), and the United States Block (unfinished). Between the east and south corner were the City Hotel, Shields & Sneeden's store, A. L. Col- lins' and T. W. Sutherland's law offices, the building now occupied by W. Veerhusen, the National Hotel, S. Mills' old residence, and two smaller buildings used as saloons. The only house on the side between the south and west corners was the house of Henry Gullion, now a part of F. A. Ogden's building. Between the west and north corner was the residence of John Catlin, which stood where the United States Building now stands. The only stores were those of Shields & Sneeden, Finch & Blanchard, and E. B. Dean & Co., but J. C. Fairchild added one a short time after. The only house on Main street, southwest from Mr. Mills', was that of Thomas Dunn, which was in the second block below the court house. L. F. Kellogg occupied a house nearly opposite his present residence. Peter Kavanaugh had a place near the corner of State street and University avenue, and there was a house about two blocks westward of that, on University avenue, which was then temporarily occupied by B. Britton. The only house beyond, and near the city limits, was that of A. E. Brooks. Nearly all the buildings were around and near the Capitol Square. King street, from the east corner of the park to the Lake House, was the only street that was at all defined by improvements, and these in a rude way. John Stoner lived near the shore of Lake Mendota, the only residence but that of Alexander Wilcox in that direction.

An incident which occurred in March, 1849, will indicate the condition of improvements west of the capitol : As Dr. N. M. Dodson, a medical student, now of Berlin, Wis., was on his way from Galena to Madison, he called at the house of Peter Kavanaugh to inquire the dis- tance to Madison. It was at twilight, or he would have been guided by the dome of the capitol.

I remained here without my family, who joined me in September, and I was an inmate of the family of David Holt during that time. Mr. Holt was then Postmaster, and had his office on Webster street, near the old Argus office building. We were first established in housekeep- ing in a rude old structure that was situated where J. M. Bowman now resides, and then known as the Schemerhorn house, where we remained until the following April. I then purchased the building known as the "Tiger," on Pinckney street, where we remained until 1850. That building was said to have been a place where much money was won and lost at faro and other games, during the sessions of the Legislature ; an incident not remarkably creditable to our early legislators, although, perhaps, as much so as the incidents of some of the years since that time. It may be supposed that, as the times and methods of living were then crude, the Legislature and legislators would partake of the same characteristics. I have the impression, however, that those

MADISON.

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HISTORY OF DANE COUNTY.

early bodies would compare quite favorably, both in talent and definite ideas, with most of their successors.

The two persons I first met in alighting from the stage at the time I arrived, were A. A. Bird and James Halpin. James had charge of the dining-room, and made himself generally useful. He soon after engaged at the American Hotel, then kept by James Morrison. He made a contract with Mrs. Morrison to serve for one year, but was to forfeit his wages in case he should return to his old habits. He was successful in complying with his contract, but shortly after the time specified had expired, under the influence of an event in his family, and of a gen- erous tendency to enjoy the bestowment of hospitality, he joined in convivial circles which he was supporting, and they culminated in the rapid waste of all they had accumulated, including the tidy furniture in their room. After removing from the American to a place on the shore of Lake Monona, near the Lake House, where they lived in wretchedness for a time, finding him- self without the means of supplying his appetite for stimulants, he ended his carousal by taking a quantity of opium that would likely have proved fatal but for the use of the stomach pump. How well he recovered from this habit, and maintained the character of a respectable citizen, and filled the place of trust as Superintendent of Public Property, was observed with peculiar gratification by his friends. But he was not always fully himself, on account of a free use of opium and morphine, and this often caused his friends to suspect that he had partly returned to his old habit. I believe he maintained his integrity as to the use of common stimulants, but his second habit became so strong that he declared his inability to relinquish their use, and he was sometimes nearly as much beclouded in his intelligence as formerly. His life was a pecu- liarly eventful one. He was a native of Ireland, and from an early age had traversed the ocean as a sailor. He landed from a ship in Quebec during the prevalence of the cholera in 1832, and suffered an attack of the malady, from which he rapidly recovered. He then came to the States, enlisted as a soldier, and was with Gen. Z. Taylor, mostly in the capacity of a servant, during part of the Black Hawk war. He was once entrusted with despatches between Green Bay and Prairie du Chien, when he traversed the distance alone, often crossing the streams by swimming his horse. In April, 1838, he was a soldier at Newport, Ky., and with a small detachment that was ordered to an Upper Mississippi station had taken passage on the steamer Moselle, when she blew up at Cincinnati landing. His company were all killed or drowned. He was thrown from the upper deck into the stream, swam ashore, and proceeded to his place of destination and reported in due form. Although a rough kind of an Irishman, he was remarkable for the fidelity with which he fulfilled any trust committed to him.

I cannot recall any who now occupy the same places they did at that time, except Mrs. Brigham, William N. Seymour and the Pyncheons. David Holt owned and occupied the house opposite David Atwood's. The house that was recently removed from the corner in order to give place to David Atwood's new residence was occupied by Peter H. Van Bergen, and soon after by Jesse A. Clark. J. G. Knapp was then Superintendent of Territorial Property, and lived opposite the Capital House (recently known as the Rasdall House), on King street. John Y. Smith, Superintendent before Mr. Knapp, before I came, was then of the Argus firm, with Ben- jamin Holt and S. Mills. He was then occupying a house from which that of S. D. Hast- ings was remodeled, but moved to his own house that autumn, where his first wife died the fol- lowing March Mrs. Smith, as well as her husband, was an early resident of Green Bay, where she came from New York when quite young as a missionary of the Episcopal Church. She possessed rare literary qualities, which were little known on account of her peculiar diffi- dence. A fragment of her diary during a thunder-storm, while passing up Lake Huron on her way to her new home, will indicate her chaste imagination, and such as has often conferred a world-wide fame. It was this : "Who but Jehovah could cause the heavens to groan in thun- ders, and to weep in showers."

There were two early residents of Madison who were not well pleased with the improve- ments which were invading the "Four Lakes country." They were from Canada-Canadian French-and I have the impression that they preceded the first permanent residents. These

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were Louis Montandon and Philip Covalle. Abel Rasdall lived in the log house which had been occupied by the Peck family on Webster street. William M. Rasdall was Deputy Sheriff, and had charge of the jail at the time before mentioned. Ira W. Bird was Sheriff, and A. A. Bird, hotel-keeper. Rev. Charles Lord succeeded Mr. Miner as supply of the Congregational Church in the autumn of 1846. He came from Massachusetts, but had been a missionary at Independ- ence, Mo. He remained until 1854, and bore his part with fidelity in giving caste to our early society, in which Mrs. Lord was a true helpmate. His health, or especially his sight, failed for a time to such extent as to render him incapable of performing the necessary work of prepara- tion, when he returned to his native hills in Massachusetts, where he remained, having so far recovered as to be able for lighter service. After a brief illness, he died at the house of his daughter, in Brooklyn, N. Y. His predecessor, Rev. Mr. Miner, left the ministry a few years after he left Madison, and has recently been engaged in successful business in Kansas.

Justice was for several years mostly dispensed by Esquire Seymour, who was one of the most active and useful among our early citizens, and was a generous leader in every new enter- prise of whatever kind. As there was no church edifice for several months, the use of the Council Chamber in the old capitol was shared by the Congregational and Episcopal Churches. Rev. Stephen McHugh was the minister of the Episcopal Church. The Methodists occupied the schoolhouse for their services. There was no church bell until June, 1848, when one was placed in the Congregational Church, and this served for common use of the several congrega- tions for about four years. I well remember the first time I heard its tones, as I was returning from my first excursion to Chicago. The bell was not yet placed in the tower, but was placed near the corner of Webster and Main streets, where Squire Seymour would have it rung, and, when a respectable crowd gathered around it, would embrace the opportunity to secure contribu- tions to be used in payment for the bell.

The number of improved farms throughout the county was then but very few, and conse- quently in most cases they were far between. My first excursion outside the village in connec- tion with the practice of my profession was to Sugar River, about sixteen miles. It was not far from the present residence of Varnum Parkhurst. The patient was a Mrs. Lomary, and the messenger Samuel Parkhurst. I have the impression that we did not pass more than four houses on the way. My next visit was to John Ensign, who kept a wayside inn, called the Prairie House, eight miles northeast from town on the old Fort Winnebago road. The houses passed on the way beyond the Lake House were two in town, one of which stood near the East Madison depots, and the other on the lake shore a short distance beyond the Sprecher Brewery, occupied by Mrs. Houghton. Those beyond the Catfish (now known as the Yahara) were those of Grover, Gould, Thomas Daily and the old Seventy-six House, then occupied by Alex Bot- kin. About the same time, 1846, I was requested to go to a place near where the MacFarland Station now is, to visit one of the family of John Reed. He came over from Second Lake (Waubesa) in a boat, but proposed that I find my way to his cabin by passing around the lake, a portion of the way to be guided by an Indian trail which I had not seen. I was not enough confident that I could find the way, so he then proposed to take me across the lake in a boat, to which plan I assented on his representation that his place was but half a mile from where we would land, but it proved to be as much as two miles and a half. As we passed along the Cat- fish, between Lakes Monona and Waubesa, we observed an encampment of. Winnebago Indians on the east shore, which probably numbered as many as a hundred. This man Reed soon after abandoned his family, and his wife became the wife of Matthew Dunn.

Henry Dodge being then Governor, George P. Delaplaine was his private Secretary, which position he also occupied during the administration of Gov. Dewey. John Catlin was Secre- tary of the Territory, and Jonathan Larkin was Treasurer. It was during that year that John Catlin and E. M. Williamson commenced the arrangement of the Dane County abstract office, which was supposed to be the second one in the Territory. One had already been commenced in Milwaukee. Simeon Mills had an interest in the Argus office, although he was not an act- ive worker on the paper, John Y. Smith having the editorial supervision. Daniel M. Holt was

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a printer in the same office. The Madison Express was then published by W. W. Wyman, and the Democrat by Beriah Brown. The Argus and Democrat were soon after consolidated, and a new Whig paper started by Atwood & Buck called the Wisconsin Express. Elisha Burdick was Clerk of the Board of Supervisors, and was succeeded by Royal Buck. E. M. Williamson was Surveyor, and laid out some of the early roads in the county. Darwin Clark had already established his cabinet-shop on the corner of his present place, which business he has main- tained with more than usual stability, sustaining the character of a worthy and reliablec itizen. George A. Cary and Charles Billings were the village blacksmiths, and Casper Rouse worked for them and afterward established the business for himself. Peter H. Van Bergen (who built the Congregational Church), H. C. Parker, A. L. Harris, John Easton and Mr. Gilchrist were the village carpenters and joiners. Barlow Shackleford occupied the house which stands next the Opera House, on Clymer street, where he died in November, 1846. Orlin Rood lived on the farm west of the village, that is now owned by D. Campbell. James Dow lived in a place dug out of a side-hill and covered by a roof, not far from the Cary farm, and perhaps it was on that place. James was one of nature's noblemen but for the habit of using strong drink-a habit which he greatly regretted and made many efforts to desist from. He had been a sailor, and was a native of Scotland. Thomas Walker came here from New York by suggestion of E. B. Dean, and established himself as a tailor. That place had mostly been occupied by Nicholas Smith, who soon after became a merchant. Luther Wilson and Decatur Vandercook established a livery-stable during that .summer. Alonzo Wilcox was the shoemaker. J. R. Brigham returned that season, having just graduated at Amherst College, and entered the law office of A. L. Collins soon after his return. The only physicians in the village or county were H. A. Tiffany and Dr. Spencer.

After the establishment of the Democrat as competitor of the Argus (which was an organ of the same political party, or rather the organ of a party within the party), the contest was sharp for the legislative printing.' Beriah Brown had his friends, as well as the Argus, but he is svid to have put forth more effort to secure success. A characteristic little speech in a cau- cus held before the printer was elected will indicate the character of some legislators. A new member was requested to inform the caucus upon whom he wished to have the place conferred. He arose with more than common deliberation, which was said to have been somewhat prolonged on account of his ample form having become wedged into an arm chair, and expressed the opinion that Mr. Brown ought to have the place, adding, " We have eat his oysters and drinked his licker, and it will not be right to go back on him."*

MADISON IN 1851.

" Madison, county seat of Dane, and capital of the State, perhaps combines and overlooks more charming and diversified scenery, to please the eye of fancy, and promote health and pleasure, than any other town in the West; and, in these respeets, it surpasses any other State capital in the Union. Its bright lakes, fresh groves and rippling rivulets ; its sloping hills, shady vales, and flowery meadow lawns, are commingled in greater profusion, and dis- posed in more picturesque order, than we have ever elsewhere beheld.

"At some time in our travels or obervations, all of us have met with some location that was at once and indelibly impressed upon the fancy as the paragon of all out-door loveliness and beauty-the place with which all others were contrasted, and to which they must bear some respectable degree of resemblance, to be esteemed delightful locations. With many persons, Madison is that paragon of landscape scenery, as the brilliant diamond, chased around with changing borders, which sparkles on the swelling vestment of some queenly woman ; so this picturesque village, with its varied scenery, sits the coronal gem on the broad and rolling bosom of this rich and blooming State.

"Nor is it less noteworthy for its business advantages and healthful position. Situated on elevated ground, amid delightful groves and productive lands, it must be healthy ; while the

*From Dorrie's " History of Madison," pp. 170-181.

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HISTORY OF DANE COUNTY.

abundance and convenience of fine streams and water-powers, must facilitate a sound and rapid advancement here in agricultural pursuits and mechanic arts. There are several liberal charters for railroads connecting Madison with Milwaukee, Chicago and the Mississippi River, some of which are already being pushed ahead with energy. "*

THE VILLAGE A QUARTER OF A CENTURY AGO.

" Madison has the most magnificent site of any inland town I ever saw, on a graceful swell of land, say two miles north and south by a mile and a half east and west, rising gently from the west bank of one of a chain of four lakes, and having another of them north north-west of it. These lakes must each be eight or ten miles in circumference, half surrounded by dry, clean oak forests, or rather 'timbered openings,' which need but little labor to convert them into the finest parks in which fair homes ever nestled. A spacious water-cure establishment has just been - erected in one of these forests across the lake southeastwardly from Madison, and shows finely both from the city and the railroad as you approach it. The capitol is toward the south end of the built-up city, in a fine natural park of twenty [fourteen] acres, and is not worse planned than most of our public buildings. The university crowns a beautiful eminence a mile west of the capitol, with a main street connecting them a la Pennsylvania avenue.

"There are more comfortable private mansions now in progress in Madison than in any other place I have visited, and the owners are mostly recent immigrants of means and cultivation, from New England, from Cincinnati, and even from Europe. Madison is growing very fast. * * *

* She has a glorious career before her."t

"For natural beauty of situation, Madison surpasses any Western town I have seen. It is built on a narrow isthmus between the Third and Fourth Lakes. On the summit of this mound stands the State House, in the center of a handsome square of fourteen acres, from which broad, smooth streets diverge with a gradual descent on all sides. To, the west and about a mile dis- tant, stands the university, on the summit of a hill or mound of about equal height. The Madi- sonians count seven hills, but I could not make them all out distinctly, nor do I think it neces- sary to the beauty of the place that it should have a forced resemblance to Rome, In one respect it is equal-in a soft, beautiful cream-colored stone, which furnishes the noblest building material. Many of the business blocks and private houses display some architectural taste."}

" The next evening we arrived at this place. I feel convinced that this place was once called Eden ; but in the language of mortals it is now called' Madison. I have been looking about to find Eve's bower, but there are so many places that seem to answer the description that I am unable to decide between the rival claimants.

" Madison is situated on rising ground between two little lakes, as lovely as a fairy dream. Indeed, I consider Fairyland a very prosaic sort of place in comparison with this. On one side is Lake Mendota, nine miles long and six wide ; on the other is Monona, about three miles by five. The space between the lakes, on which the town is built, is from three-fourths of a mile to a mile in width. Around the town, stretching away in every direction, is a beautiful undulating country, consisting of prairies and "oak openings." These " oak openings " are said to bear & great resemblance to the English park scenery. The town is situated on undulating ground. The university buildings are on the highest ground, and when completed will present a most imposing appearance. The capitol is admirably situated on a lovely square of fourteen acres, covered with forest trees. From the top of the " Capitol House"-which, by the bye, is & capital house in more senses than one-the visitor has a splendid view.

" The enterprise and energy of the Madisonians are absolutely astonishing. The hills and valleys look at them with suspicion. If a hill sees a Madisonian take a "railroad look ' at it, it begins to sink at once. In the language of the coon to Capt. Scott, it says : ' I might as well come down.' When a mere visitor has been in Madison for a few days, if he looks rather

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History of Dane County, Wisconsin, Part 109

Author: Butterfield, Consul Willshire, 1824-1899; Western Historical Co., Chicago, pub Publication date: 1880 Publisher: Chicago : Western Historical Company Number of Pages: 1304

Author: Butterfield, Consul Willshire, 1824-1899; Western Historical Co., Chicago, pub
Publication date: 1880
Publisher: Chicago : Western Historical Company
Number of Pages: 1304