USA > Wisconsin > Vernon County > History of Vernon County, Wisconsin, together with sketches of its towns, villages and townships, educational, civil, military and political history; portraits of prominent persons, and biographies of representative citizens > Part 59
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The next morning the sun stepped forth, and with our paddles and songs we merrily left the lake behind us. How many days it took to reach Lake Nipissing from Lachine, or from Nipissing to Lake Huron, I know not, neither is it of any importance to past generations; but of this I am sure, that in due time we reached Lake Huron, and the keenness of the air of that broad sheet of pure water was felt night and day; and even at this distant period of seventy years, my probocis takes offense at its sufferings at that time.
After getting over those seventeen portages, and running sundry rapids, at times going at the rate of ten knots an hour, we at length reached the big lake; and again, after paddling and working many days, we landed on Grosse island, within nine miles of Mes-she-mic-ka- nock, the Big Turtle; corrupted into Michili- mackinac, and finally into Mackinaw.
The traverse being long and dangerous, it was deemed imprudent to undertake it with onr full load; and it being late in the day, the guide concluded to encamp, and have everything ready for an early start in the morning. When the morning came I volunteered to guard the baggage at one end of the portage, enabling all hands to engage in the transportation of the goods and canoes; but here I was too desirous of reaching the end of this long journey, and would not stay. In this I was wrong, for one of the men had to remain in charge of the half loads necessarily left, thereby weakening the carrying force, which might have proved seri- ous had a high wind occurred. However, all was safe over and in store by sunset.
Here, then, I was in Mackinaw, truly a stranger in a strange land. I knew no one, and my only care was to perform such duties as might be allotted to me withont a murmur. Mr. McKinzie's two ontfits or equipments had arrived from their trading posts. They called to see me, and I was informed by them that the furs they had brought on here were to be packed in a certain way for transportation by canoe to Montreal. At it I went, and before Mr. Mc- Kinzie arrived in a light canoe, the forty or fifty packs were pressed, marked and the bills of the contents of each paek all ready. The men complained of being given little time, but Mr. MeKinzie was surprised and pleased to find all in readiness for those who wanted to return without delay to Montreal, yet would stay to distribute the goods, which were brought under my supervision, into the three outfits he in- tended to send to trade with the Mississippi In- dians the ensuing winter.
Two of the outfits were assigned to two brothers named Lagortroin, and the third to myself. There was also a lot of old remainders of goods from a retail shop Mr. McKinzie had for long years before kept; these, not suitable for the Indian trade, I was directed to pack up and take to St. Louis and make the most of them. My orders were all verbal. My bour-
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geois, laboring men, were gone; my work was (light); but it being too early in the season for me to start, I amused myself profitably in going out daily shooting pigeons for my pot. As my larder had nothing but hulled corn, tallow, and a small quantity of salt pork; this latter was kept as a luxury for rainy days, when the feathered tribe were permitted to rest.
As I had seen my dear mother make croxen- yoles or curly cakes, of which I was very fond, so I thought I would try my hand at it. I ac- cordingly procured two pounds of flour, put it into a wooden bowl, not over scoured, after fish, poured in cold water, not too much, lest I should drown and lose my flour, adding a little salt, and handled it until to fancy it appeared to be first rate dough. My next care was to clean the pot of cobwebs, and put it over the fire with a good lot of tallow, which, by the way, had no small share of musty smell about it; but this, I thought would evaporate by the heat. While this heating process was going on, I busied my- self in cutting up my beautiful dough into all kinds of fancy shapes, cats, dogs, snakes, mice, etc. These effigies I now committed to their hot bath; and in a few seconds they were so nicely browned that my mouth fairly watered to overflowing, and I could wait no longer for a taste. I found the fork rather dull, so scooped them out with a wooden ladle. On their touch- ing the cold plates, to my horror, though refined by the action of the fire, the tallow became as hard as a candle. To eat my fine looking cakes was impossible, as they had become hard and tough as sole leather. However, I gave them to the men, who dissolved them in their next choice corn cooking; and thus ended my cake frying for all time to come.
My path to the pigeon ground lay immedi- ately past a notary public's door, and I had no- ticed sweet faces peering at the nice, hand- some young sportsman as he passed daily with his gun. At length I was watched on my return; a young widow lady, standing in the door, as I touched my hat, said: "You appear to be a
stranger?" I replied: "Yes; just from Mon- treal." "Will you walk in and rest yourself?" "No, I thank you, I must give the men their corn." "Whenever," said she, "you feel lonely we shall be glad to see you." I thanked her for her kindness. The notary's hopeful son called upon me and confirmed the invitation.
The next day my best Montrealers saw the light and got an airing, fitted for an after- noon's call. No pains were spared to prove that I was recently from civilized society. At 4 o'clock I was formally introduced by the no- tary's son to his aged father, ditto mother, his widowed sister, Mrs. La Frambois, his other sisters and Miss Cowan. The engage of the latter's father was killed by an Indian, who was taken for his trial to Kingston, on board the schooner Speedy, Capt. Paxton, when she foun- dered, and all on board were lost, judges, law- yers and all. I, of course, remained to tea, and in the evening a "hop" was gotten up. This kind of fun was kept up almost daily during the remaining ten days of my stay. My canoe was at length ready, and I took a run up for good bye. I did not join in the general boo-hoos, but I felt pretty badly.
I have, perhaps, got ahead of my story, as I ought to have said that, having departed from Mackinaw, I was now on a coasting jour- ney on Lake Michigan, exposed to storms, or calms, or burning suns, and eighty leagues of uninhabited wilderness to travel before I could reach Green Bay, or see any but savage faces. Tenting, sleeping, etc., were the same as on Grand river ; certainly the air had improved- whether caused by the wide expanse of water, I cannot positively affirm ; but I am of the opinion that the influence of the hulled corn on the human system produced a less repugnant feeling to the nasal organs.
After many days rowing, sailing and storm- bound, I landed at Green Bay, where were about a dozen settlers, scattered within the limits of, perhaps, four miles-little farmers, none cultivating more than five acres, their
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HISTORY OF VERNON COUNTY.
crops consisting of corn and potatoes. An old man lived here named Langlade, who had, until the Americans got possession of the country, been in the employment of the British government, whose daughter had married a trader named Grignon, from whom had sprung very many branches.
An English gentleman, Jacob Frank, and his nephew, John Lawe, Jews, were extensively embarked in the fur trade here. At this time, and for years after, I became very familiar with them ; for, on this occasion, they tendered me much friendly advice how to conduct myself with the Indians, to beware of the cunning deceit, treachery, etc., of the traders, with whom I was about to mix up. This was the first good counsel I had heard on commercial business ; and, to this day, it has been of ser- vice to me.
Here it became nesessary to engage an in- terpreter, to perform also the duties of steers- man. Only one suitable person could be found, and he must feed with the bourgeois. That was well enough, but he had an overgrown. squaw wife, with too papooses not long hatched, and they must join the same mess. In stating to Mr. Frank my awful predicament, he laughed at me and said : "You can't better yourself ; besides you will find that, in many cases, two or three incumbrances, or even half a dozen, such as your delicate ideas abhor, Inxuriate in the same canoe." I could not help myself, so the next day was fixed for a start.
To-morrow came. I took my breakfast with my friends. I found a nicely fitted place for me, immediately over six kegs of powder, of 300 pounds weight-plenty to end our terres- trial journey by adding a spark. Contrary to a very old custom, and much to the annoyance of the smokers, I absolutely prohibited lighted pipes on the canoe. A nice location was fixed for Mrs. Bartram near her husband, Mons. Bar- tram, the interpreter. All this added no little incumbrance to the canoe.
We embarked, and away we started for the Portage du Ouisconsin, sixty leagues distant. Proceeding three miles, we came to the begin- ning of a six mile rapid, the greater part of which Lady Bartram and I had to take dry land to overcome, in order to relieve the canoe of surplus weight, as the men had to wade and carefully avoid the rocks, in dragging the canoe up this toilsome obstruction. The slow process of working up the rapids gave time for splendid fishing sport. Black bass were very abundant, and I caught enough for supper and breakfast for all on board.
Having at length overcome all the rapids, the water being low, the men were well tired, and I said "camp." The tents were soon up, the interpreter having one for himself and fam- ily; and the loading of the canoe being refixed, ready for the morning's start. Meanwhile Lady Bartram busied herself in cleaning the fish, at which she appeared perfect-indeed, she might have secured a professorship any- where for superiority in this line. Well, the fish are at length in the kettle, Lady Bartram fixing all the dishes, plates, etc., I had on the mats in my tent. The fish were presented in a big tin dish, boiling hot-all Lady Bartram's volunteer work, having assumed entire control over the kitchen department.
Now, reader, you may wish for, but you won't get a taste. You may, however, take a peep at our tea party, all squatting flat on the mats; Mr. Anderson, the writer, presiding, with Lady Bartram on the right, Sir Bartram on his left, ready to bring the tea kettle and then Master and Miss Bartram in front, scrambling for the fish eyes in the dish, at which their progenitors exult to witness their activity Mr. Frank had said, "You'll get used to it." But I never will.
Crossing Winnebago lake with difficulty, we pushed on through the Rice lakes. Now we are fairly on Fox river, passing Butte des Morts. lIere, many years since, a French Jesuit and his men had been murdered by the Winneba-
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HISTORY OF VERNON COUNTY.
goes. Camping and tea-ing with no variety; however, after some days we got used to it.
In due time we reached Portage, Ouisconsin, (Wisconsin) a 'carrying place of three miles across the Ouisconsin river. All over in two days. This river has a smooth, strong current with many shifting sand banks. On this Port- age I first became acquainted with rattle-snakes, and from all I had heard, I was not desirous of getting used to them.
Eighteen hours' travel, sixty leagues, brought us to Prairie du Chien, on the Mississippi. Here was a little village of perhaps ten or fifteen houses; and at the distance of three miles were three farmers. Except one framed one the houses were all built of logs, plastered with mud, and covered either with cedar, elm or black ash bark. The people were nearly all lower Canadians, carrying on, with small or large stocks, the Indian trade. Without excep- tion, they were kind and hospitable, and prided themselves on their honesty and punctuality in paying their debts, and keeping their engage- ments. Very little money was in circulation. There were no lawyers to excite strife. Not- withstanding all this fair appearance, there were those among them, regarded as otherwise honorable, fair and clever, who would defraud and over-reach bis neighbor, even to despoiling him of his last copper.
After making the necessary arrangements, I started down the Mississippi for my wiutering ground with the Sauk Indians. On arriving at the place I found a house empty, in which some trader had wintered the year before. Possession, I thought, being nine points in law, I set all hands to making repairs, and stowed my goods into it. The next business was to give a portion of my goods on credit to a people I never before had seen. However, it was the mode of carrying on trade, and I must "get used to it." My house, which was now all right, had four good rooms and two fire-places -one in my room, and one in the rear or kitch- en which also warmed Lady Bartram on her
east wing, and the shop or store in the west wing. Although neither papered nor carpeted, it was compact, warm and comfortable, in this unchristian country, and uninhabited except by savages.
All being thus fixed I embarked my retail shop goods, under the impression of making a haul, with my laces, muslins, satin slippers, etc. One day and a half (probably from about the locality of Quincy) on the swift current of the Mississippi, brought me to the Spanish town of St. Louis. I called on, and obtained leave from the Spanish regal authority, to open shop, hired a house and exposed my precious finery in the dress line. Many called, admired, and would call again; some would go in for fifty or one hundred francs, if I would take dairy in pay-which was there understood to include cabbage, turnips and other vegetables, but no silver. We could not dicker, so after many days rent at one shilling and eight cents per day, to pay which made a hole in my stock of muslin, therefore, I must pack up and go. The only money I got or saw was one York shilling, and this from Mrs. Myers, a Jewess, from Montreal, for a ball of cotton wicking.
When I got back to my trading post I found four opposition traders-Monsieurs St. John, Blondeau, Berthelot and Carron. They were all old hands, and viewed me as an intruder, and would spare no pains to ruin the mangeur de lurd, or pork eater, as those in infancy in the trade were roughly called. But a blessed guardian, who, with shame I say it, I knew not, and he it was who told me that swilling hot stuff and gambling night and day with cards, was not right. I had not seen a book of any kind since I left my dear Cornwall in March.
Lady Bartram had kindly taken control of the cuisine department, and separated me from her own family, for which I rejoiced. I could not, however, get used to the marks left on my floor by the papooses. The long winter, from No- vember until spring, had to be worn out; and I did my share of rambling with my gun, shooting
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HISTORY OF VERNON COUNTY
paroquets, pieking and eating peeans, and break- ing through the ice with narrow escapes.
My interpreter being an old hand at intrigue and trickery, and naturally suspicious, became aware, by frequently visiting my neighbors, of their vile plots against me, and enabled me to thwart their designs. The Indians returned from their hunt, paid about twenty-five per cent. on their debts, and commenced trade. When this was over, my friends (the traders) sent thirty or forty Indians, half drunk, with a worthless bear skin, and demanded from me a keg of rum-a gallon-therefor; and, on my refusal, they threatened to break the shop door and take it. I stepped into my room, took from under my pillow a brace of brass pistols, and came back to the kitchen, only a minute's walk. I desired the interpreter to say, that the first man who strikes the door will be shot. In the bustle to clear out, the fellows took a loaf from the bake-kettle, and another took a brand from the fire, and stuck it into the straw, with which the building was covered. On hearing of it, I rushed out and fired after them; but they fortunately had made good time, and were ont of reach.
The trade being over, I quietly packed my furs, baled my goods, and got ready, without my neighbors knowing my object. By daylight canoes and cargo were at the landing place. While the boats were being loaded Mrs. Bart- ram prepared breakfast, and I had made up my mind never again to winter near to people worse than savages. I set fire to my house, and em- barked, having ordered an extra rowing place, where, if necessary, I could pull an oar, and keep ahead of my friends.
In order to reap the trade from such Indians as nsually came from their hunts, and encamped along the river where no trader wintered-with these, the first who came were first served. I had cause to rejoice that my cunning friends did not leave for two days after me; consequently the extra oar was not needed, and my trading
friends had to take my leavings with the seat- tered bands en route for Prairie du Chien.
A few days rest for all hands, and following the fashion I one day got senselessly drunk, which was the first and last time during my Indian trade tours. While at Prairie du Chien I punctually attended all the best nightly balls. We sometimes kept Sunday; but whether on the right day was doubtful. My friends (the traders) at length arrived, who represented me as a fear- less and dangerous person to be let loose amongst the Indians-always carrying gun and pistols, and would shoot any one who quarreled with me. This reputation was soon made known far and near-no' a very favorable one under most circumstances. But it had a good effect with that class of traders who would get beastly drunk and fight like dogs at night, and be good friends and love each other in the morning. Though I was far from deserving such a charac- ter as they gave me, it preserved me from the gross insults to which the meek and retiring were subject.
After onr few day's sojourn, I started for Mackinaw. The journeying seemed to agree with Lady Bartram and family, for they were in as good health on our return to Green Bay as when we departed. Mr. McKinzie had arrived when I reached Mackinaw, and was quite pleased with my returns and doings generally; but as he was about to be married, he gave up the trade, and pressed me very hard to go back with him, as they were wanting me to fill my old place at Kingston. But my destiny was not so ordered, and I would not be persuaded. The offer was good; but something, I could not tell what, held me back.
At my master's in Kingston I never saw a Bible, nor heard a word about religion, except in Church, and when good old Dr. John Stuart, the former Mohawk missionary attended to prepare me for confirmation --- so, I now think, that my blessed guardian influenced my decis- ion. It is true it often occurred to my mind with what devotion my ever dear father and mother read their Bibles on Sundays, and ab-
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HISTORY OF VERNON COUNTY.
stained from all week-day employments which were not absolutely necessary. They were now very old, and I would be delighted to see them; but my mind was fixed. There were no pleas- ures and enjoyments in the society and occupa- tion which lay before me; I cared not for money, nor had I a desire to heap up riches. When my old master, Mr. Markland, wrote to me, while I was spending my last winter in Cornwall, re- questing me to go back to him, my reply was, "I am engaged to Mr. McKinzie, and I shall look in future to my gun, knife and tomahawk for a support." This decision influenced me to refuse Mr. McKinzie's offers at Mackinaw to return to Kingston; for, from my boyhood, I felt proud of keeping my word.
I therefore engaged with my friend Mr. Frank, of Green Bay, and went and wintered (1801-1802), on the Riviere des Moines. This river empties into the Mississippi from the west, about forty miles above where I wintered last year .* I ascended the Des Moines about fifty miles, to the Ioway tribe of Indians --- a vile set. A Frenchman named Julien t was my only com- petitor this year for the Indian trade at this point. These Indians hunted near the Missouri, about ninety miles across the country from where we located.
It would have been an easy matter, thongh somewhat expensive, to have sent goods around by and up the Missouri to the vicinity of the hunting grounds of the Ioways; but to avoid this expense, for which there seemed no neces- sity, Julien and I agreed that neither would send outfits there, but trust to our own exertions in the spring, when the Indians, we concluded, would bring their furs to our shops. I con- sidered myself quite away from trickery; but as time hung heavily upon me, I wore it away as well as I could by hunting, making oars, pad- dles and other whittlings, until about Christ-
mas. Then Mons. Julien and his interpreter, had a quarrel; and following the vile conduct of his master in deceit, he told me that Julien had deceived me, having sent goods up the Missouri last fall.
This was a thunder-clap to me. An immedi- ate explanation from Mr. Julien was demanded. I was furious, and showered all the abuse I could muster on his cringing head. My mind as to what was best to do under the circumstances was soon made up. I called my interpreter into council, and said, "Now, boy, yon know how Mr. Julien has deceived me; are you will- ing and ready to carry a load on your back across to the house near the Missouri, which Mr. Julien has treacherously put there, with the intention of stealing all the credits I made to those Indians last fall." All were willing. "Tit for tat" said I; "he wanted to ruin me, I will only injure him. Some of you ask his interpreter to go with us and carry a load." He accepted the invitation. Then my party, in- cluding myself, became nine strong.
I left my own interpreter in charge of the Des Moines trading post, and started the next day with seven loaded men, taking provisions for one day only, depending on game for our supply. The little islands of wood scattered over the boundless plains were swarming with wild turkeys, so that we had plenty of poultry. At the end of six days we reached our destination safe and sound, taking Mr. Julien's two engages by surprise. My party soon fitted up a tempo- rary shop. Not long after, the Indians came in, made a splendid season's trade, managed for the transportation of my packs of fur by leaving a man to help Mr. Julien's two engages down with their boat. Thus I completed my winter, and Mr. Julien found his trickery more costly than he anticipated.
My next winter (1802 -- 1803) was spent with the Winnebagoes, on Rock river. They were the most filthy, mnost obstinate, and the bravest people of any Indian tribe I have met with.
* This would place the former trading post not very far from the present city of Quincy.
+ Doubtless Julien Dubuque.
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HISTORY OF VERNON COUNTY.
Here I had a half-breed in opposition in the trade. Our houses were about half a mile apart, and between us was a very high hill, over which we had to pass by a little path through the bushes. On one occasion, returning from my neighbor's, on a very dark night, I lost the path. The hill, I was aware, terminated on my right in a precipice at least 300 feet from the river below, and that the path ran within fifty or sixty feet of the precipice. I was at a loss what to do. If I sat down to await the return of day- light I would surely go to sleep, and in a dream, perhaps, walk to my destruction. So I determined to walk about, feeling carefully with my feet for the path; but, as people gener- ally do when they become confused, I went the wrong way, and soon found by my steps that I was going down hill. I, therefore, lay down on my stomach, to get at the level of the ground, placing my head up hill, intending to work my- self along in that way until I could get into a thicket, and there remain until morning. I got on the path, however, before I found a thicket. My house was soon found; and this was my last visit after nightfall. On examining my trail the next morning, I found I had been within six feet of the precipice, which, had 1 reached it, must have proved fatal to me. 1 had a good season's trade during this winter of (1802-1803), and had plenty of venison, wild fowls and wild or natives potatoes to eat, but awful human brutes to deal with.
My short sojourn at Prairie des Chiens, the rendezvous of the Mississippi traders, pre- sented but little variation ; and our journeying from and to Mackinaw only differed in this respect, that in the summers the rivers were low and sluggish, and, in returning to Macki- naw, we could not make more than from three to ten miles a day in ascending the Ouisconsin.
Having had enough of the Lower Missis- sippi, I would not try it over again. Min-na- wack ( or Mill-wack-ie ) was offered to me for a trading post, and I went among the Kickapoos. About a quarter of a mile from the entrance of
the river I observed a nice green and level spot. There I landed, and pitched my tent, towards the close of 1803; and, in a short time, we had a three-room house over our heads, no up stairs ; but all the timbers above the floor exposed to view. The river here is, perhaps, sixty yards wide. On the opposite side were two traders, Le Claire and La Fromboise, who had been settled there several years, and each had two or three relatives, or other hangers on, which formed quite a society of its kind. I had bought a horse, and considered it my duty to ride over the plains and pick up skins from the scattered Indian camps.
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