USA > Wisconsin > Waukesha County > The History of Waukesha County, Wisconsin. Containing an account of its settlement, growth, development and resources; an extensive and minute sketch of its cities, towns and villages etc > Part 64
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A writer for one of the leading publications of the West, writing recently from Waukesha County, said : "It has long been a puzzle to me that our Indian summer should be enjoyed by nobody but our own citizens, for the two or three weeks following the first frost constitute by far the most magnificent period of the whole year, in the rural districts. The foliage of the forests has masses of gold and scarlet mingled with its green, and the warm, rainless days are softened by a far-extending vail of haze which reminds one of his early dreams of elf-land. It is a season that I should not advise any one to indulge in for once unless he can afford to repeat the experience in the future, for, once enjoyed, the desire to see other Indian summers becomes all-powerful."
Waukesha .- While hundreds and thousands visit the village of Waukesha for pleasure and recreation, the place is more distinctly a health resort than a pleasure watering-place. Her numerous mineral springs, of which elaborate accounts will be found elsewhere, are such a boon to suffering humanity as no pen can describe, and the afflicted gather from nearly all portions of the civilized world, and those suffering from the diseases for which their waters are a specific return home healed and happy.
But Waukesha Village is a beautiful retreat, a pleasant place in which to spend a summer set apart for needed rest and recreation. It lies in the valley of the Fox River, down to which the land slopes gently on one side, and abruptly, from a high, commanding elevation, on the other. The drives up and down the Fox River, close to the shaded banks, are delightful, as are also those in other directions to Pewaukee, Nashotah, Muskego, Mukwonago, or toward Mil- waukee, the metropolis of the State, which is only eighteen miles distant.
On the high, green bluff north of the village is the Waukesha Observatory, from whose summit several counties can be seen, as well as a most charming bird's-eye view of the whole village. Here also is the Fountain House, the largest hotel in Wisconsin, erected by a gentle- man who, at sixty-nine, was cured by the use of Waukesha mineral water. The village has other hotels, the park, opposite the Silurian Springs, being one of the most charming places in the county ; the Mansion House, large and fashionable; the Exchange and American (regular hotels), besides numerous, elegant boarding-houses. Waukesha is unsurpassed in hotel and boarding-house accommodations, and, numerous as they are, they do not afford room for all who annually visit the place, and nearly every private house in the village is called upon to furnish accommodations for strangers, which is cheerfully done.
During the last ten years, since Richard Dunbar infused new life and hope into its som- nolent citizens, much has been done to beautify Waukesha, in the way of planting shade trees and improving residence property. In this direction, M. D. Cutler's splendid private park, which he has been planting during the last forty-five years, is a great attraction and ornament, with its thirty varieties of trees, numerous song birds, deep shade and relics of the work of pre- historic nations.
* The Fountain House, at Waukesha, of hrick and stone, is the largest hotel in Wisconsin.
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As the fame of the place grows apace, its citizens will do more toward making it attraetive. There are now three parks, brilliantly lighted every evening in summer, by private individuals, and free concerts are given every alternate night at the Silurian and Bethesda Parks.
Waukesha has also attractions rich in the extreme, for students of nature. To show this, an enthusiastic writer will be quoted as follows :
" This article is not intended for the general public, but is a description of an old and mys- terious locality in which is a rare summer retreat, and therefore, all but the peculiar and appreciative few for whom it is here presented should pass on. There is a certain small per- centage of the people of this world who know, understand and appreciate its rarest beauties and richest pleasures, and are always to be found among them. They will be found where the genius of man has crowned the beneficence of nature with all the rarest jewels of his skill. They love delicious shade, clear springs, fragrant orchards, an unsurpassed table, elegant rooms, select company, nooks, arbors and lawns. For them it can be truthfully said that no. place in Wisconsin comprises so many of the desirable attributes of such a summer resort as Waukesha, the "Saratoga of the West," situated at the bottom of the old Silurian Ocean. Its attractions can hardly be enumerated. It nestles in that tree-covered valley that was once the bottom of a mysterious but teeming ocean, whose numberless fossilized beings halt the observer wherever he goes, in fact are trodden beneath his fcet at almost every step. The ancient and mysteriously interesting remains of a pre-historic race, graves, deities, fortifications, birds, men, turtles, small mountains, corn-fields and gardens-this unreadable but absorbing history of the past-wrought and written in the soil, arrest the curious wherever he may wander. Mineral springs whose waters-free to the million in their marble basins-tone up and strengthen any reduced or overtaxed system, no matter from what cause the degeneration arose, are found on almost every street, scattered charmingly among such parks, shade, drives and walks as no other- place in Wisconsin affords. In front and on either side [of the hotel mentioned by the writer, but the name of which is omitted], is one of the oldest parks in Waukesha, which contains more. than a dozen different varieties of trees ; to the rear stretch acres of a fine old orchard now in the richest bloom-and across the street is the Silurian Mineral Spring, park pavilions and bath-house -- the buildings all new and elegant. This spring is one of the largest in Waukesha, and within two minutes' walk of the Park Hotel. The situation and surroundings, indiscriba- bly charming, are all rendered cool and fragrant by the surrounding pines, spruce, aspens, maples, elms and fruit trees.
"Nothing like Waukesha can be found; nothing at all compares with it as a place to regain health, throw off business and household cares and perplexities, and take up a new and brighter lease of life, is anywhere in existence. All is beauty, blossom, growth, health and cheerfulness. In the surrounding stretch of park, the music of robins, orioles, humming-birds, wrens, wild canaries, bees, thrushes and bobolinks is ever heard, while the flash of various bright-winged but songless birds may be watched from every window and verandah. A summer idling place, with springs, orchards, gardens, birds, shade, culture, and reasonable prices-where can one be- found ? Waukesha is the only one that combines them all. It enjoys what every other summer- resort enjoys, and can boast of several attributes no other pretends to claim. As a delicious retreat, an elegant summer home, a health-giving resort, a delightful idling place, a rich field for the student, a congenial point for the cultured, the "Saratoga of the West," at the bottom of the mysterious old Silurian Ocean, is unapproached and unapproachable. Beautiful lakes in great number are near by, where bass, perch and pickerel are plentiful, and hills, valleys and forests line the roads to them."
Pewaukee .- Is situated nineteen miles from Milwaukee .* The road passes through the National Asylum, the beauties of which we admire from the car window, and then through a charming landscape, until just fifty minutes after leaving Milwaukee we reach our destination- the first of Waukesha County's many famous resorts. There are two hotels, the Oakton Springs and Heath's, the former having a capacity of two hundred, the latter accommodations
*The balance of this article is from the " Northwestern Tourist."
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for fifty guests. Both being built for the purpose of entertaining summer tourists, and conducted with special reference to their wants, there is probably no choice in the matter of accommodations. The Oakton Springs Hotel fronts on Lake Pewaukee, a beautiful sheet of water, four to five miles long by about one mile in width, called by the aborigines "Pewaukee- wee-ning," the meaning of this pretty name being " Lake of Shells," from the countless beautiful little shells strewing the sandy beaches. We are much pleased with Pewaukee-wee-ning, the charming scenery of its shores, varying from pastoral fields to rocky formations and primitive forests, the advantages of access to two of the most famous mineral springs in the world, for the cure of all those undefined internal ailments which particularly beset people of sedentary habits, the excellent fishing, boating, etc .- it would seem to require considerable "wee-ning " to keep us away from here after once becoming acquainted with the place. This is our first impression of Pewaukee, and every day confirms it. The hotel accommodations are strictly first-class ; the lake is a perfect gem ; sail and row boats are on hire at the boat-house, where line and bait are also furnished the angler. Pickerel, pike, black bass and perch are ever ready to rise and take the bait with an eagerness and dexterity quite gratifying. The excellent fishing at the lake draws hither a large number of disciples of Isaak Walton every season, many of them camping out. Finer camping grounds are found nowhere in the entire Northwest, and none are more popular. The " Lady of the Lake," a beautiful double-decker, with accommodations for one hundred and twenty passengers, makes regular excursions on the lake, stopping at every point of interest. The elegant steam yacht "Oriole," owned by the proprietor of the Oakton Springs Hotel, is gotten ready whenever a party of guests so desire, and thus the opportunities for aquatic sports are practically unlimited. A moonlight excursion on the lake will always be remembered with much pleasure. Luna plays fancifully with the water and the surrounding landscape, producing the most peculiar and grotesque effects ; the merriment of the passengers mingles with the song and laughter filling the air from every point on the shore-all is life, joy and happiness. The drives from Pewaukee lead through a charming and interesting country, over well-kept, hard roads, excellent turnouts being procured at reasonable prices. When not engaged in the legitimate pursuits at a watering-place, one can spend a pleasant hour at the bowling alley or billiards. Grotto Rock, one-half mile south of Oakton Springs, furnishes food for study of the wonderful freaks of nature. Those coming later in the fall will find the best of shooting, there being a great variety of game-canvas-back, mallard, teal and wood duck, woodcock, snipe and pheasant. Congregational, Methodist, Baptist and Catholic Churches each receive their share of patronage on Sundays, dividing up the guests, who are of but one thought in all other respects-enjoyment of the beautiful nature, so richly endowed and so generously offering her charms. With all these attractions, Pewaukee is justly gaining such wide reputa- tion and extensive patronage.
Lakeside .- Once more on the railroad, although for three and one-half miles only, we pro- ceed to Lakeside. A convenient way to reach this point from Pewaukee is by means of the "Lady of the Lake," Lakeside being located on the opposite shore from Pewaukee. We intend to ride it out on the superb steel track, however, although the stops be often and the conductors courteous in furnishing stop-over checks, frequently requested. For the benefit of those not familiar with the stop-over check system in vogue on the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul Rail- way, we would explain that the ticket is taken up when the first stop-over is given. This is good for fifteen days, and if not used within that time, another check can be obtained again good for fifteen days, and so on, ad infinitum, a new check being given at every stop, reading from stopping-off point to destination.
Lakeside is eminently a family retreat, very popular on account of its quiet location. An excellent hotel, on the cottage plan, affords superior accommodations for two hundred and twenty-five guests, rooms and table being strictly first class. Beautiful grounds surround these cottages, charmingly located a short distance from Lake Pewaukee, the grounds gently sloping to the lake. The surrounding country is very attractive, hills, forests and lakes combining to make a landscape of surpassing beauty. No grander retreat can be imagined, and no description
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will do it full justice. In addition to Pewaukee Lake, three others are accessible in an hour's drive : Pine Lake (3x1} miles), Beaver Lake (1x2 mile), and North Lake (2x1 miles), the water of all these lakes being literally alive with pike, pickerel, perch and bass. Fine billiard rooms, bowling alleys, and choice croquet grounds furnish diversity of enjoyment; row, sail and steamboats are on hire at reasonable charges, lines and minnows being furnished at the cottages. Fine liveries are provided on demand-in fact there is no limit to the means of enjoyment, of which bathing furnishes a valuable part, and the facilities for which are exception- ally good. During the "season " a multitude of sportsmen congregate here, who claim for Lakeside greater attractions than possessed by any other point in this section-pheasants, ducks, squirrels, etc., being very plentiful. We spend two days in a most pleasant manner, roaming through the surrounding country, boating and fishing. This a wonderful region. The famous Oakton Springs are on the opposite shore, and here is another mineral spring, not famous as yet, but fast becoming so. We refer to the Lakeside Springs, highly impregnated with proper- ties invaluable to many constitutions.
There is no village here. Lakeside is a beautiful summer resort, nothing else, the nearest village being Hartland, two and one half miles distant. Hartland is also the post office, and church-goers have a pleasant drive or walk there on Sundays. Here we would say that Hart- land has three good churches-Episcopal, Congregational and Lutheran-presided over by very able ministers. The gay throng, snugly quartered at Lakeside, many of them for the entire summer, render the place very lively, in the evening particularly, when song, music and dance form the attractions, and a source of social and intellectual enjoyment. No pains have been spared to render Lakeside perfect, a farm of several hundred acres being operated by the hotel proprietor for the exclusive use of the hotel, and the daily supply of sweet, fresh butter, the richest cream and the choicest vegetables is not exceeded, if equaled, at any other hotel in the country.
Hartland .- After a short journey of three and one-half miles, on the railroad, we arrive at Hartland. We find a pleasant, neat village, of some five hundred inhabitants, located in the beautiful Bark River Valley. At the hotel we meet a number of acquaintances from Milwaukee, just ready to start out for a drive to some of the points of interest in the vicinity, and readily accept the invitation to join, so courteously tendered. The afternoon is beautiful, a cooling breeze blowing from the east, and we are promised an enjoyable ride. Hartland is the center at which tourists gather, and from which they scatter to Lakeside and the resorts on Pine, North and Beaver Lakes and Lake Keesus. Many elegant residences are found, owned by citizens of Milwaukee, Chicago and other places. Our drive leads us to Sand's villa, on the eastern side" of Pine Lake, about a mile and a half from Hartland. This villa is one of the finest private residences we have met, situated in superb grounds, with beautiful gardens, hot-houses, etc. We are most hospitably received and courteously escorted through the grounds, in which a deer park, containing a large number of native hart and roe, forms a prominent and attractive feature. A pretty steam yacht on the lake is ever ready for the accommodation of friends and visitors. Proceeding north, we come upon many more elegant residences, among them Inter- Lachen, the well-known establishment of Dr. Leuthstrom, of Milwaukee. We pass between Pine and Beaver Lakes, proceeding to North Lake. Here is another remarkable attraction in a mineral spring, which has recently gained much notoriety, accidentally discovered on the grounds of Mr. B. B. Hopkins, who owns an elegant mansion on this lake. The water of the spring is claimed to possess the same curative properties which have made the Manitou Springs, of Colorado, so famous. North Lake is a beautiful body of water, about one mile in length and three-fourths in width, the lake frontage nearly all owned by private parties, who have erected, or are erecting, summer residences. A drive of two and one-half miles east brings us to Lake Keesus, a smaller lake of irregular shape, with attractive shores and an abundance of fish of the varieties generally found here. This region is particularly attractive. The high banks of the lakes named rising abruptly from the water's edge, the country rolling and somewhat broken, ravines, hills, lawns, and beautiful groves of majestic oaks, forming an ensemble of.
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which the eye never tires. The well-kept grounds surrounding many of the private residences contribute materially to the beauties of this corner of the " County of Summer Resorts," and although there are no hotels here (board being obtainable at several of the private cottages, however), it abounds with life. Tents are seen in every direction, croquet parties upon the lawns, the roads are filled with carriages, and life and happiness prevail everywhere.
Nashotah .- Nashotah itself offers little or no attractions, being merely a railway station, of little note as such ; but, being located in the center of the wonderful lake system of Wauke- sha County, and the entrepot for visitors to Nashotah Mission, Delafield and the celebrated Nemahbin Springs, every arriving train brings a large number of tourists. We are comfortably stowed away in the commodious bus in waiting at the station, on the arrival of every train, conveying passengers bound for Delafield, on Nagowicka Cottage, located on the lake of the same name. The distance is two miles and a half, and the drive very pleasant. We find excellent accommodations, and visitors from all points of the compass. The society gathering at these places is very select, and they have evidently all come for the sole purpose of enjoyment and recreation. There is a refreshing absence of all conventionalism, and we are permitted to be natural and unrestrained in our movements. This is an advantage which so many summer resorts, otherwise attractive, lack, and the lack of which is to be deeply deplored. We dress for a walk, a climb, or a row, always ready for every occasion for enjoyment; we laugh aloud to our heart's content ; we run and dance upon the lawns and give full play to our inward happi- ness, without meeting reproving looks and disdainful shrugs of proud shoulders. Alas, that usage should ordain differently at home ! These refined men and women all acknowledge their love of this freedom from the baneful dictates of society, and yet how readily will they again submit to all the rules of etiquette upon returning home ! These thoughts are involuntarily suggested by the rosy cheeks and glowing eyes we meet, so seldom seen in the parlors at home. and rarely ever at the " fashionable " watering places East, where dress occupies so much of the time and enjoyment is sought in the ball-rooms and parlors, while here, Dame Nature pro- vides the entertainments.
A drive to Nashotah Mission, the theological seminary of wide repute, which has sprung from the " mission " established for the conversion of the noble red man, dominant in these parts scarce forty years ago, is very interesting. The "mission " is situated in a most charming spot, on the northern one of the twin Nashotah Lakes, in a heavily wooded country surrounded by lofty hills and picturesque ravines. From here different drives diverge. We pay a visit to Nemahbin Lakes, two lakes connected together, in the lower one of which Sugar Island suggests picnics. A number of smaller lakes are in the immediate vicinity, concealed among the abrupt bluffs and thickly timbered hills, the landscape being beautiful throughout. Yonder rises Government Hill, which we have been particularly admonished to visit. The drive there alone is well worth a visit to Nashotah. Winding through heavily wooded hills, the most prominent of which is our objective point, the rise is gradual, and on reaching the summit the grandest panorama is opened before our fascinated vision. As far as the eye reaches in either direction, the scenery is beautiful beyond comparison. We count twenty-six lakes, the two Nemahbins and Nagowicka, connected by the Bark River, while to the northwest the grandest chain of lakes is presented to view-Pine, Beaver, Okauchee, Oconomowoc, Fowler's Lakes and Lac La Belle, linked together by Oconomowoc River. This is the most extensive of the several "chains." Isolated lakes, creeks and streams are seen in every direction. The surface of the country is picturesque in the highest degree, the most vivid imagination being unable to produce a landscape of more varied charms. Fields of golden grain, green meadows, pastures with herds of cattle and flocks of sheep are interspersed between dense forests ; lofty bluffs and strangely shaped rocks rise here and there; the many lakes of all shapes and sizes glistening in the bright sun like so many diamonds in a crown of emeralds, the creeks and streams winding their silvery threads among the hills, the church spires of Oconomowoc, the many palaces and cottages strewn over the surface, the roads, where seen, alive with vehicles- here is a feast for the eye, a motive for the artist. Every part of the picture before us is
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beautiful in itself, and in its entirety, once seen, will never be forgotten. As we glance tow ard Pewaukee, Lakeside and Hartland, we live over the pleasant hours spent there, and almost determine to seek no further, but to remain in Waukesha County during the remainder of our vacation ; we return to Government Hill several times during our stay ; we love to linger here and to view ever and again the beautiful landscape beneath.
Delafield .- This place is chiefly noted through the famous Nemabbin Springs located here. But the attractions are not confined to invalids only. The general tourist, the sportsman, every lover of nature will find enough here to admire and to render his sojourn pleasant. There are no finer drives anywhere ; beautiful promenades invite the visitor, the opportunities for rowing and sailing on the crystal waters of the lakes and rivers are unlimited, fishing is unsurpassed, Lake Nagowicka particularly proving all that is claimed for it; the air is invigorating, you are away from the life and bustle of the city, having every opportunity to enjoy the quiet of country life and the beauties of a country adorned by nature in her most lavishing mood. An Episcopal and Presbyterian church invite the worshiper-not to a " country sermon " by any means, there being preachers of eloquence and wide reputation, and services are frequently held by visiting ministers of national renown.
Gifford's .- This is the next resort on the "Tourists' Route," as the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul Railway is appropriately called. Gifford's is one of the most charming places in the Northwest, enchantingly located on the banks of Oconomowoc Lake, but three minutes' walk from Gifford Station. An extensive grove of forest trees, one hundred acres of upland and lowland, hills and dales, lawns and meadows and romantic rambles, belong to the premises, while the magnificent scenery, in the center of which it is located, with its many pleasant drives, excellent roads, wonderful springs, elevated location, and the facilities for all kinds of aquatic sport, fishing, billiards, bowling, etc., render it a perfect gem. Oconomowoc Lake is one of the most charming of the lakes of this region, and unexcelled as a fishing ground. Covering six hundred acres, its waters afford the finest sailing, and visitors should not fail to profit by the opportunities at hand. The hotel is kept in a superior manner, and those who have once spent some weeks or months at this beautiful spot need no urging to come again.
The distance to Oconomowoc is only a mile and a half, the guests at the two points making frequent visits to each other. One of the most charming sights is had from the lake every pleasant evening, when the large verandah and the dancing pavilion are illuminated with Chinese lanterns, etc. Music is furnished by the well-known Bach band, of Milwaukee. It is impossible to recommend any one special point of the great number one will visit on a trip to St. Paul, such as we are taking. They are all attractive, each having its peculiar charmns, but it is safe to say that none surpass Gifford's, the centrality of its location causing many of the regular visitors to Waukesha County to select it as their place of residence during their stay in this lake country.
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