USA > Wisconsin > Sauk County > The history of Sauk County, Wisconsin, containing an account of settlement, growth, development and resources biographical sketches the whole preceded by a history of Wisconsin > Part 60
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There is another point of great interest in this region, which does not appear to be easy of solution. On the top of the ridge, and in lines running north and south, are conglomerated bowl- ders. These are local, and do not extend far to the south of the southern ridge. They consist of rounded, water-worn pebbles, and large bowlders of quartzite imbedded in friable sandstone. Some of these conglomerated bowlders weigh many tons. They are evidently deposited at a very little distance from the place of their origin. Evidently, in this immediate neighborhood, pieces of quartzite have been for a long time subjected to running water, and have formed them- selves in a bed of sand, which has been hardened, and some moving cause has carried them into their present position. The place and time and agencies which have produced these effects demand a more careful and close study. There are also signs of a secondary metamorphic action in some of the quartzite. A number of specimens were obtained, which were homogene- ous, but contained large numbers of rounded pebbles, of the same quartzite, or of white quartz, firmly imbedded in them.
It is the opinion also of the State Geologist that this valley has been at some time the pas- sage of a large stream. The large size of the valley, he thinks, suggests that it may have been the passage of the Wisconsin River, which at the close of the glacial period found its ancient channel obstructed by the great drift heaps that are now to be seen in it. If this is a correct view, he says, the river (the Wisconsin) must have had a passage through what is now known as the Lower Narrows of the Baraboo, "a much wider channel than is needed by that small stream."
The Narrows spoken of by the State Geologist bear a close resemblance to some parts of the Dells of the Wisconsin, and this gorge, like the Dells, was in all probability cut through by
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the action of water forcing itself down from the north and west-first finding an outlet through the smallest imaginable crevasse, and gradually wearing away the rocks until the entire stream of water flowing in from above could pass through. The State Geologist offers this explanation of the origin of the valley of Devil's Lake as a suggestion only. The Baraboo, he says, may be the stream to which the work should be allotted, " but, if so, we must imagine it to have been a much larger and more powerful stream than now." Very true ; and in all probability it was a much larger stream than now. There is pretty good evidence that at one time the Baraboo River was a much larger stream than the Mississippi is now, and that it covered the entire area now known as the Baraboo Valley. This being true-and the proposition is not only reason- ably plausible in the very nature of things, but is substantiated by the testimony of a very large number of learned men in regard to the former size of other rivers-we must accept the theory advanced by Prof. Eaton that the Baraboo did pass through the valley of Devil's Lake, and, further, that the valley was none too large to accommodate it. Accepting this theory, then, leads also to the conclusion that the valley between the point where is now located the village of Baraboo, and what is now the Lower Narrows, was once an inland sea, so to speak, and remained so until the pressure of the water forced an outlet through the rocks (the Narrows). The course of the river then changed from the valley of the Devil's Lake to its present channel.
THE DELLS.
About two miles north of the south lines of the counties of Juneau and Adams, the Wis- consin River, which for many miles above that point is very broad and flows lazily along, meta- phorically turns upon edge and rushes with a deep and sometimes deafening roar throughi a nar- now, crooked gorge seven and one-half miles in length. This narrow passage is cut through high grounds (or, more properly, through a mountain of sandstone), which, after bounding the river valley on both sides for a great distance northward, gradually approach and join. The lower or south end of this gorge terminates a short distance above Kilbourn City, at a point where the north line of Sauk County strikes the Wisconsin River. The stream flows on across the north line of Section 4, in Township 13 north, of Range 6 east, with a course bearing to the eastward, crossing into Section 3, but soon turning back again into Section 4. Here a dam crosses the river. All above this point is known as the " Upper Dells." From this dam is seen Columbia County and the village of Kilbourn City, in the town of Newport, on the right ; Sauk County and the town of Delton, on the left ; the river forming the boundary between the two counties. Below the dam-or, what is specific enough, below Kilbourn City -- are the "Lower Dells," where the river again turns upon its edge, but less ferociously than before, and continues in this peculiar attitude for another seven miles, the east side being in Columbia County and the town of Newport; the west side in Sauk County and the town of Delton; but the general trend of the Wisconsin is toward a southeast course, in the " Lower Dells." At the point where the river loses its characteristics of a gorge, it is called " the Foot of the Dells."
Just how long the " Old Wisconse " has been traveling through these gorges, no one will pretend to say. There are good reasons for believing, however, that this rock-walled pathway is not very ancient in comparison with the age of the earth. The river, which is believed at one time to have passed to the east of the high grounds referred to, doubtless forced its way through the soft sandstone of these hills by degrees, something after the manner of the Baraboo's passage through the Narrows.
Throughout the whole length of the narrow passage, from the " Upper Jaws " to " the Foot of the Dells," fanciful names have been given to the most striking objects and places. Begin- ning at the dam and traveling up the river, the first striking feature of the gorge is Angel Rock, situated about one-half mile from the steamboat landing in Kilbourn, on the right-hand side of the river. It is a rugged projection, curiously shaped. This lofty crag a lively imagination can easily transform into a huge angel with outspread wings ; hence the name. It is also called Marble Rock, from the peculiar little round lumps of sandstone found on the ledge and in the river below.
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HISTORY OF SAUK COUNTY.
Swallows' Rock, or where the swallows live, is a little further along on the same side. In early spring and summer, thousands of beautiful little swallows may be seen here in the brown cliffs, occupying innumerable holes in the rock, safe from danger, and the happiest family to be found anywhere. Their jolly twittering can be heard far out upon the water.
The Jaws of the Dells, or entrance to the Dells proper, are guarded by two immense rocks- High Rock and Romance Cliff-standing like sentinels on duty and sternly looking down in their stately grandeur, as if disputing the right of man to explore the intricate passage beyond.
High Rock, on the right, rises from fifty to seventy-five feet above the river. It presents a rugged, rough aspect, with curiously shaped sides, and has a meager growth of stunted pines, birch, and other trees and foliage.
Romance Cliff, on the left, is a grand old pile of stately rocks, covered with a dense growth of trees and shrubbery. It is somewhat higher and more stately than its vis-a-vis, High Rock, and has much more of the curious and wonderful in its make-up and general appearance. It is suggestive of the stately crags and beetling cliffs of the weird and grand scenery of the Rocky Mountains.
Chimney Rock is one of nature's singular freaks, left standing for innumerable ages, formed by the action of the wild waters, looking like the old-fashioned stick and mortar chimney of the days of the forefathers. Standing out from the cliff behind, it looks as if the touch of a child's finger would topple it into the river. It is on the right, just beyond High Rock.
Echo Cove .- A most pleasing echo can be heard here. It repeats everything, and is a beautiful place for bathing and enjoying a quiet hour in a cool, pleasant retreat.
The Dell House, "a wild, rambling old rookery," on the left, is one of the first frame houses ever built on the river above Portage. It was erected in the year 1837-38, by Robert V. Allen, and for many years was used as a tavern.
Chapel Gorge is the next point on the right hand, and nearly opposite the Dell House. It is a beautiful, shaded glen, and is named from the peculiarly shapen rock at its entrance, resembling a chapel or place of worship. The Gorge is pleasant and shady.
Boat Cave is just beyond the Chapel, on the same (east) side of the river. It should always be visited to be appreciated, although a general idea may be had from the steamer's deck. It is one of the most peculiar formations, showing the action of the water upon the soft sandstone. It can only be traversed in a small boat. Beginning with a perfectly arched doorway, only large enough to admit an ordinary skiff, it opens out in a vaulted chamber in the solid rock of the cliff, then turns at right angles and, through another hall with a water floor, ends in a large door far- ther up the river.
Circle Bend is the next place of interest in ascending the stream, where the river and rocks form a half-circle. The rocks are high and bold, presenting a cliff of solid masonry, formed and carved and hewn and worn into a wall of adamant by the action of the whirling waters. Its top is covered with a dense growth of cedar, hemlock, pine, birch, oak and all the many varieties of ferns and shrubbery that so abundantly abound throughout the Dells.
Sturgeon Rock, on the left, is a bold, projecting rock, resembling a sturgeon. Here we enter upon the looked-for wild grandeur of the Dells.
Navy Yard is on the left of Sturgeon Rock, and is one of the most picturesque and won- derful formations on the river. Here the imagination pictures huge stone vessels of war, with prows and sides and ribs so solid and stanch that for ages they have withstood the battles and warring of the waters, and, as time has rolled on, they have become more complete and shapely in form and build. Bold guardians are they of the Narrows.
Eaton Grotto is a long, deep opening-a rift in the face of the cliff from top to bottom- extending back some forty feet into the rugged wall of rock. It is on the opposite side from the Navy Yard.
Gates' Ravine, also on the right, is a few hundred yards further up the stream, and extends back from the river nearly a mile. It is a delightful place for a ramble, and is filled with beau- tiful ferns and flowers, tall cliffs, rugged crags and sparkling streams.
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HISTORY OF SAUK COUNTY.
Skylight Cave is a very similar opening to that of Eaton Grotto, and is just at the head of the Navy Yard, on the same side of the river as the latter. Here, with a small boat, one can seek the deep recess of the rock for upward of a hundred feet, lighted only by a little rift in the rocks overhead. It is a delightful place to visit.
The Narrows .- Here the river suddenly narrows to the width of only fifty-two feet, and the water is eighty feet in depth. The river is now running upon its edge, hemmed in on either side by ponderous rocks. In low water, the current is nearly as calm and placid as at any point on the-Dells, but when the river is up, the raging waters come pouring through this narrow gorge with great force.
The Old Bridge .- In the year 1850, Schuyler S. Gates erected a substantial bridge across the Narrows. This was the first bridge ever built across the Wisconsin, and was used for a num- ber of years. Thousands of teams and passengers paid toll here. It was carried away by the high water of 1866.
The Devil's Elbow is the point where the river makes an almost square turn, just at the entrance of the Narrows.
Black Hawk's Cave can now be seen on the left hand. It was here (the legend hath it) where the old chief hid safe and secure in the days of the Black Hawk war.
Notch Rock .- This is (to raftsmen) the dread of the Narrows. It is a square, bowlder- looking rock, on the left, and is known as Raftsmen's Terror, on which in high water, rafts are sometimes broken, and lives lost. It can be seen close down to the water's edge.
Rattlesnake. Rock is the high crag or solitary-looking rock on the left, just back of Notch Rock. It is covered with shrubbery.
Artist's Glen .- This is one of the most beautiful ravines on the river. It is on the right, nearly opposite Rattlesnake Rock. This glen is delightful for picnic grounds, and has a large number of fine butternut and other trees, affording an elegant retreat.
Sliding Rocks are here upon either side of the stream, and are so called from their peculiar formation, the sides being oval-shaped and sliding inward, throwing the water to the center of the stream.
The Ancient River-Bed is seen as a sand bank on the left. In an early day, the river divided here, and a part ran around, coming out and uniting with the main river at or below the Dell House, forming a large island.
Coldwater Canyon .- This canyon requires a full half-day to explore thoroughly. It is one of the grand features of the Dells. You proceed through a rocky defile and under frowning crags-a glory of cavern and valley. Far-distant archways are seen overhead. Here one scrambles andslides, between towering chasm walls so near together that both sides can be reached at once by the hands. In this canyon fourteen varieties of ferns are found, including one that is fragrant. Finally, you come to the
Devil's Jug .- In a moment you reach a deep, wild, narrow gorge, walled in with rocks, which are in some places almost vertical, and in others overhanging the pathway. The gorge is so narrow that we do not see the Jug until we step inside of it, and look around with wondering curiosity upon its splendid curves and magnificent proportions. It is, of course, a broken jug, the ravine extending through and beyond it for a considerable distance, and on one side the lines are imperfect, owing, doubtless, to the unusual hardness of the rocks; but the other side is hol- lowed into a perfect resemblance of the inside of an immense jug, as smoothly fashioned as if turned upon a potter's wheel. The entire width of the jug is about thirty-five feet at the bot- tom, and its height is not far from seventy feet. The rift at the top is quite narrow, admitting light enough to see with tolerable distinctness, but leaving the upper part of the cavern in twi- light gloom. The gorge beyond the Jug is passable for some distance. A ramble through this vast canyon, and a visit to the Jug will afford a world of pleasure. All the many varieties of ferns and mosses may be gathered here.
The Devil's Arm Chair .- You will wonder why his Satanic Majesty should perch his chair in such a place, unless he, too, is an admirer of the wonders of nature. It is on the left and but a short distance up the river from Coldwater Canyon. The next place of note is the
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Clam Banks, in which nothing is to be found except the name to remind us of the delicious bivalves gathered on the shores of Narragansett Bay, unless, in imagination, a collection of pro- digious stones is converted into clams.
Ruffle Rocks are upon each side of the stream, and would look well on the shirt fronts of the giants of olden days. They adorn with becoming grace the river's sides for a long distance.
Chameleon Cave is a seam in the bank, and can only be visited by climbing a ladder from the steamer's deck, going to the high bank, and then down into the earth. You will need the light of a lantern and guide to reach the bottom. It contains beautiful changing mosses. It is on the right just above Steamboat Rock.
Steamboat Rock challenges especial attention. It stands on an island in a curious circular cove, and resembles, from some points, a huge ocean steamer, without smoke-stack and wheel-house. It is about 250 feet long by 100 feet wide and some 40 to 50 feet in height, with perpendicular, rugged sides and covered with pine, oak and shrubbery.
Rood's Glen .- This is just beyond Steamboat Rock, on the right. It is a large cavern, and if it were near a large city would be made useful as a lager-beer hall.
Honey Bee Spring is on the left, just above. The rock is shaped like an eagle's beak.
Arch Cove is a delightful place for picnic parties. It is here one can get the best view of the many islands at the head of the Dells, and of the river for a long distance. The Cove is a beautiful, shady recess, and contains an elegant spring of pure, fresh water. It is on the left- hand side of the river. Nearly opposite, on the right side of the river, at the upper jaws of the Dells, is the
Witches' Gulch .- At the head of the Dells, on the right, extending three-quarters of a mile from the shore, will be found this remarkable gulch. The precipitous rocks tower aloft on either side to the height of perhaps a hundred feet, their sides being worn smooth and their ragged edges rounded off by the long-continued action of the water. One can almost touch with outstretched arms both sides of this gloomy gorge, which surpasses in grandeur anything hitherto seen in the Dells. The rocks overhead are in many places shelving and rounded into immense scallops. The stream through this wild pass is in many places waist-deep. It contains many curious points-a miniature waterfall, Phantom Chamber, Fairy Grotto, and hundreds of other remarkable features.
The Islands .- From the head of the Dells, or " Upper Jaws," a fine view of the river, bluffs and islands, is had for a long distance. This view is often compared to a similar scene in Lake George. Above the Dells the river ""spreads itself" all over the country, as it were, and is full one-half mile in width and very shallow, the water in summer being not over one or two feet in depth. About three-fourths of a mile above Witches' Gulch, are seen on the left bank, a num- ber of interesting points.
Hornets' Nest has the shape, and at a short distance the general appearance of an immense hornets' nest. It serves as a pillar in front of a natural portico, the rock having in the course of time been washed out, leaving a flat roof overhead, with the Hornets' Nest as its principal support. Passing through the archway formed by this singular rock, we ascend and follow the hillside for a few rods, and presently stand in
Luncheon Hall .- The waters have at some remote period swept through here with great force, wearing a passage through and under the rocks, and leaving the flat rocks which formerly stood at the " top of the heap," as a natural roof for the hall, which is of considerable extent. The roof has a single break, a few inches wide; otherwise it is perfect ; and the rocks which support it furnish convenient seats and tables. Located on the top of a ridge, the hall presents a grand appearance to the spectator at a distance, and commands a fine view of the river. Once within its massive portals, awe gives place to curiosity, and the visitor finds pleasure in observing the odd shapes which the rocks have assumed under the slow but persistent action of the current which once swept the Wisconsin Valley, leaving its impress on every hill, and cut-
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ting its way through the rocks until it formed the romantic channel through which the river now runs. A short distance from Luncheon Hall, is found the wonderful
Stand Rock .- To reach this, one must ascend the bank a short distance and follow along the edge of the ridge, coming to the rock upon the upper side. The top of the rock-a large sandstone slab-is nearly as level as the floor, and its superficial area is about 18x24 feet. A pathway leads to the foot of it, and the view from below is more interesting than that from above. The water-rounded column which supports the super-poised tablet is of rather irregular shape and is sixty-two feet high. With the neighboring rock, a sort of arch is formed, somewhat resembling the cavernous opening at Luncheon Hall. All around is a scene of beauty. The hills are covered with trees clothed with magnificent summer foliage; a fine farm, trees and shrubs spread out up-riverward, and the glen is full of ferns and flowers in great profusion.
THE LOWER DELLS.
The river here is broader and the banks present a greater diversity of bluff and bottom than in the Upper Dells, but the character of the rock composing the banks is the same, and a similar, though varied, succession of curious and pleasing forms is presented. The rocks have been worn and hollowed and rounded into every imaginable shape. In some places, great shelves, with stalwart young pines growing upon their very edges, overhang the dark waters ; elsewhere, perpendicular walls loom up like the front of some vast fortification, and, a little further on, a similar wall is supplemented with coigns, bastions, projecting towers and covered archways ; again, the rocks are rounded at their bases, so as to resemble the sterns of small vessels-much inferior in size and appearance to the ponderous hulks at the Navy Yard in the Dells above. Then the rocks slope gently downward to the green, grassy vale, where a pretty farm gives charming variety to the panorama, and on the opposite side to the broad bottom, where the village of Newport once stood in her pride, now interesting in her remarkable decay.
Farther down the river are more noted objects. The lofty banks here, as above the dam, are crowned with a luxuriant growth of trees, shrubs, plants and grass. The first attraction after leaving the dam, going down the river, is Taylor's Glen, on the left-a wild half-cavern and half-vale, which winds around and under the village of Kilbourn City.
Echo Point .- Standing upon the rocky cliff where the tunnel from Taylor's Glen comes out under the railroad, any unusual elevation of the voice brings a prompt and distinct response from the massive, smooth-faced cliff opposite, every word and tone being repeated with surprising clearness and accuracy. Persons curious in such matters (and who is not ?) may easily reach Echo Point by walking a few rods down the railway, to the river bend, and descending the path way to near the mouth of the tunnel, where the benches of the rock afford good standing-places.
Bear's Cave is on the same side, a few rods below, and is a hole in the rock, with a cleft extending out to the edge of the cliff, and thence downward to the water's edge, the cave form- ing a recess near the top.
Chimney Rock is a little further down, on the same side, and in size is less than the one up the river, but greatly resembling it in situation and appearance.
Then comes the Pulpit, standing near the water's edge, and shaped like the sacred desk in some sanctuaries. Below this on the river, but above it in height, is
Observation Point, standing upon which you can see a magnificent landscape. On the opposite side
Stultz Rock, a terror to raftsmen, whose rafts are sometimes drawn into the eddy and whirled to destruction thereon. Steering clear of this treacherous place, and turning a point, we have in front of us
Signal Peak, upon which the red man, it is said, used to light his signal fires to warn his brethren up and down the river when there were enemies around. Swinging around the bend, we soon come to the
Sugar Bowl, which stands out in the stream, as cleverly molded as one could wish. The shape of this singular freak of nature is as true to its name as that of anything up the river, though it is hardly so striking as the interior of the Devil's Jug.
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The Inkstand next claims attention. At first first view it seems a counterpart of the Sugar Bowl, but we soon perceive a difference. The rock, entire at the top, parts a little way down, and the passage, tapering gradually, is at the water wide enough to admit a small canoe. It bristles on the top with small pines.
Lone Rock stands in massive majesty mid-river, smiling with its summer chaplet of verdure upon the tawny flood that washes its feet. It is a broad oval in shape. As we approach we find that its sides are perforated with caverns, into the largest of which, the
Cave of the Dark Waters, or, as the Indians call it, the place of the Nah-huh-nah, we push our boat and rest awhile. From the other side, a few straggling gleams of light reach us through
Reflection Arch .- Nothing in this vicinity is more curious and wonderful than this rock, the outer walls and internal caverns of which show the abrading effects of different currents and eddies of water. Leaving this romantic spot, we head up stream along the south side of the river, to
Grotto Rock .- This is formed by an immense flat rock, and is supported by massive jambs of the same material. It is quite spacious, and is surmounted and surrounded by the luxuriant arborescence and verdure, which throw a graceful charm over all the scenery oft his region, and form a lovely setting for many a striking or quaint and curious picture.
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