USA > Arizona > The marvellous country : or, Three years in Arizona and New Mexico, the Apaches' home > Part 1
USA > New Mexico > The marvellous country : or, Three years in Arizona and New Mexico, the Apaches' home > Part 1
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MARVELLOUS COUNTRY
EXPLORATION ADVENTURES IN ARIZONA AND NEW MEXICO
.
-
GENI
ALLEN COUNTY PUBLIC LIBRARY 3 1833 01838 9632
GC 979.1 C`839M
:
Collection of Native North American Indian Books, Historical Books, Atlases, plus other important au- thors and family heirloom books. As of 12-31-93
last Ford Minang To Earl Ford McNaughton
.
THE MARVELLOUS COUNTRY,
Sold only by subscription, and not for sale at the bookstores. Residents of any State desiring a copy should address the Publish- ers, and an agent will call upon them.
1
14 WH
stephens
JOHNANDREW-SON.
" THE KING."
DR. PARKER AT THE BOTTOM OF THE CANON. .
THE
MARVELLOUS COUNTRY;
OR,
THREE YEARS IN ARIZONA AND NEW MEXICO,
THE APACHES' HOME.
COMPRISING
DESCRIPTION OF THIS WONDERFUL COUNTRY, ITS IM- MENSE MINERAL WEALTH, ITS MAGNIFICENT MOUNTAIN SCENERY, THE RUINS OF ANCIENT TOWNS AND CITIES FOUND THEREIN, WITH A COMPLETE HISTORY OF THE APACHE TRIBE, AND A DESCRIPTION OF THE AUTHOR'S GUIDE,
COCHISE, THE GREAT APACHE WAR CHIEF.
THE WHOLE INTERSPERSED WITH
STRANGE EVENTS AND ADVENTURES.
BY
SAMUEL WOODWORTH COZZENS.
ILLUSTRATED BY UPWARDS OF ONE HUNDRED ENGRAVINGS.
AMHERST, N. S. : ROGERS & BLACK. 1874.
TO
M. L. M.,
WHOSE KIND WORDS OF ENCOURAGEMENT AND COMMENDATION HAVE INDUCED ME TO OFFER THESE PAGES TO THE PUBLIC,
THIS VOLUME
IS MOST RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED BY
THE AUTHOR.
PREFACE.
THIS book will acquaint the reader with the strange and wonderful history of a most marvellous portion of our own country.
It is compiled from the journal of a traveller, and is with- out pretension to especial literary merit; but it is offered to the public with the belief that he who reads its pages will find many facts that are new to him, so interspersed with incident of travel and adventure that its perusal will prove both entertaining and instructive.
THE AUTHOR.
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
PAGH
FRONTISPIECE - THE KING.
ILLUSTRATED TITLE-PAGE-DR. PARKER AT THE BOTTOM OF THE CANON.
A SPANISH WARRIOR OF THE 16TH CENTURY . 29
FATHER KINO . 46
A NATURAL SANDSTONE FORMATION (full. page) . 52
THE BURIAL OF LAWS (full page) 54
A MOQUIS 56
LOS ORGANOS MOUNTAINS 60
A CITY NOT MADE WITH HANDS (full page) .
64
THE FORTUNATE SHOT
66
DR. PARKER .
69
72
JIM DAVIS, THE EMIGRANTS' FRIEND
81
INITIAL (T) . .
COCHISE
.
HOWLY MOTHER! IS THAT AN APACHE ?
88
A DESERTED APACHE HUT .
97
JIMMY
99 106
LOWER PORTION OF THE CAÑON (full page)
108
SOAP AND WATER
115
MEETING OF MANGUS COLORADO, COCHISE AND THE AUTHOR 118
THE SCALP DANCE (full page)
124
. A NAVAJOE . . 127
THE COUNTRY ON THE HEAD WATERS OF THE GILA (full page) 132
CAPTURE OF JIMMY BY THE INDIANS (full page) . . JIMMY REFUSES TO "INTER" THE CRACK . 140
A VASE TAKEN FROM THE SACRED SPRING AT ZUNI . .
143
THE WHEEL SCENE 150
THE MISSION OF SAN XAVIER DEL BAC (full page) 156 . KILLED BY APACHES . 162
I RETURN TO CAMP WITHOUT MY HAT
164
THE BISHOP OF SONORA . 172
JIMMY'S TRIAL 179
INITIAL (A) . . 184
RUINS OF THE CASAS GRANDES IN 1859 (full page) 190
INITIAL (T) .
199
MAP SHOWING THE AUTHOR'S ROUTE . 204
CAPT. EWELL'S PURSUIT OF THE APACHES 209
THE STAMPEDE . 218
INITIAL (B) · 220
THE BEST SHOT I EVER MADE (full page) . 228
THE CEREUS GRANDES .
. 233
:
THE BEAR HUNT (full page)
83 85
THE APACHE'S HOME 114 INITIAL (A)
136
PLAN AND ELEVATIONS-(3 cuts) . 191
40
AN APACHE . . · .
8
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
PAGE
INITIAL (T) . 235 ·
A MIRAGE ON THE GRAND PLATEAU (full page) ·
238
UPPER PORTION OF THE CAÑON (full page) . 248
THE APPROACH TO THE APACHE PASS (full page) 258
INITIAL (A) 263
VIEW OF PECOS 268
KIT CARSON . 271
THE RIO GRANDE AND JIMMY ON A BENDER 277
INITIAL (A) 279
A NEW MEXICAN SHEPHERD . 281
JIMMY'S DEER HUNT (full page) 284 ACOMA . .
286
THE ACOMA BELLE 290 292
JIMMY IN TROUBLE 295
INITIAL (O)) . 300
302
EL MORO (full page)
306 307
THE EAGLES OF ZUNI
312
THE CACIQUE .
315
THE SACRED SPRING AT ZUNI
322
DON RAFAEL .
329
JIMMY'S ARREST .
333
THE PUEBLO OF ZUNI (full page) .
336
ZUNI ALTAR AND INCANTATION SCENE .
340
TENAJA TAKEN FROM THE RUINS OF OLD ZUNI
342
A DRINKING VESSEL FROM OLD ZUNI 343
-EARTHEN SPOON FROM OLD ZUNI . 344
A COYOTE .
345
STIEN'S PEAK BY MOONLIGHT (full page)
356 360
BURIAL SCENE
368
OUR FIGHT WITH THE NAVAJOES (full page)
374
JIMMY'S MOONLIGHT STROLL
377
INITIAL (A) . . 384
GUILTY OR NOT GUILTY 400
I FALL THREE HUNDRED FEET (full page)
410
A MOUNTAIN GOAT 414
JIMMY'S MOTHER-IN-LAW 418
INITIAL (U) ·
432 437
RUINS IN CAÑON DE CHACO (full page)
AN EARTHEN BOWL FROM PENASCA BLANCA 440
INITIAL (I) . 452
THE MOQUIS PUEBLOS (full page)
464
THE GREEN-CORN DANCE (full page) 468
INITIAL (H) . . .
. 472
WE TREAT JIMMY FOR A NEW DISEASE
475
MR. STEWART. 492
A DRINKING VESSEL FROM ZUNI 50]
A PUEBLO RESTORED (full page) 504
JUANITA .
.
. .
510
A GROUP OF APACHES 513 .
THE MEETING ON BROADWAY 532
THE PUEBLO OF LAGUNA (full page).
A PANTHER HUNT
FROM INSCRIPTION ROCK
INITIAL (W).
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
PAGE
'he Marvels of the New World. - Cortez in Mexico. - Mon- tezuma's Wealth. - The Kingdom of Cibola. - Montezuma's Treasure-house. - The Spanish Conqueror's Expedition to Cibola. - Father Niza's Exploration in 1535. - Coronado's Expedition in 1540. - The Jesuits. - Father Kino's Visit to the Country, 1658. - The Cross his only Protection; the Wilderness his only Purveyor. - The Country. - Its In- habitants. - Their Home. - The Arts. - Their Manufac- tures. - Their Flocks and Herds. - Gold and Silver Mines. - Mining. - Diamonds. - Rubies. - The Fire-Worship- pers. - The Establishment of Missions in 1670. - The Missions destroyed by the Apaches. - Final Abandonment of the Settlements by the Jesuits.
.
29
CHAPTER II.
Father Kino. - The Spanish Government. - Its Efforts to develop the Mineral Wealth of Arizona. - Precious Stones. - Silver. - Gold. - Masses of virgin Silver. - Wealth of the Mines inestimable. - The Mines undeveloped. - Rea- sons. - The geographical Position of Arizona. - Apache Raids. - Homes ravished. - Bowie Knives and Pistols the Administrators of Justice. - The most wonderful Portion of the American Continent. 2
40
10
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER III.
The Purchase of Arizona. - Its Size. - Its Cost. - The Loca- tion of the Kingdom of Cibola. - Cortez imperils the Pos- session of an Empire. - The Viceroy Mendoza's Expedition to Cibola. - Settlements in Arizona at the Time of its Pur- chasc. - Texan "IIcad Rights." - Santa Rita del Cobre. - A Visit there. - Ojo Caliente. - Remarkable Springs. - Immense Value of the Copper Mines. - Wonderful Sand- stone Formations. - Adventure with the Apaches. - Their War-whoop .- Death of Laws. - IIis Burial by Moonlight. - A Mother's Thanks. - God bless her. -
- .46
CHAPTER IV.
The Mesilla Valley. - Its Climate. - Wines. - Its Produc- tions. - The Inhabitants. - Their Manners and Customs. - Los Organos Mountains. - The Salt Lakes. - " A City not made with Hands." - The Elements as an Architect. - The Temples of Crystal. - The Sacramento Mountains. - The Tularosa; its Trout. - Antelope. - A IIunt. - Lost upon the Plains. - The terrified Mule. - The moving Bush. - Suspense. - The fortunate Shot. - "Will Daylight never come ?" - The Apache's last Trail .- A Scalp. - The White Man's Smoke. - Camp at last. 56
CHAPTER V.
The Valley of the Tularosa. - A Bear Hunt. - The Cinnamon Bear .- An unfortunate Shot .- Bruin "riled." - The Giants of the Forest .- Dr. Parker not a Successful Climber. - Bear Meat in Camp. - Fort Stanton. - The Ruins of "Le Gran Quivera." - Miles of Ruins. - A Stone Aqueduct fourteen Miles long. - Cathedrals. - Mines. - One of the seven Cities of Cibola. - Fifty Millions of Treasure buried.
11
CONTENTS.
- The Doctor's Horse stolen by Apaches .- Petrified Forest. -The Rio Grande. - Old Pennington and his seven Daugh- ters. - Capture of Mrs. Paige by the Indians. - Her Suffer- ings. - Her Story .- Down the Rio Grande. - "Jim " Davis, the Emigrant's Friend .- Jim swaps. - Home again. - The Alcalde. - " Enough to Eat at Home."
69
CHAPTER VI.
The Apaches. - The Terror of the Settler. - The Scourge of the White Man. - Eight Bands. - Their Location. - Their Depredations. - Their War Chiefs. - The Tribe as now constituted. - Their Numbers. - The Apache Pass. - Cochise. - His personal Appearance. - " Ilowly Mother ! is that an Apache ?" - The lost Mules. - The Overland Mail Company. - The Massacre of the Fraziers. - The Bodies burned. - The Oatman Family. - Their Attempt to cross the Desert .- Their Surprise by the Apaches. - The Massacre. - Escape of Lorenzo. - He returns and finds the dead Bodies of his Father, Mother, and Sister. - Olive and Mary Captives. - Lorenzo's Sufferings. - The Fate of the Girls. - Their Tortures. - Slaves for four Years. -Death at last releases little Mary. - Olive buries her Sister at Night. - Olive finally purchased. - Olive and Lo- renzo meet. - Mangus Colorado, the White Man's Friend. - The Tonto Apaches.
83
CHAPTER VII.
Negotiations with Cochise. - He agrees to accompany me to the Apache Village as my Guide. - Our Journey. - A Mi- rage. - The Country. - Its general Features .- A Cañon on the Gila. - Thrilling Account of its Descent. - The " Jor- nada del Muerte," or Journey of Death. - All the while gaining Light, though losing Strength. - Nature's wonder-
12
CONTENTS.
ful Organ .- Cathedrals .- Castles. - Rotundas. - Ravines. - Chasms. - Mountains. - The Apache Scouts. - The Bluff. - Our first Sight of the "Apache IIome." - Its beautiful Situation. - Our Reception. - A Description of the Valley and its Inhabitants. - My first Night among the Apaches. - A Dance. - As villanous a Crowd as "ever cut a Throat."
- 97
CHAPTER VIII.
My second Night in an Apache Village. - Soap and Water. - The Soap Plant. - An Alarm. - Are they Mojaves or Apaches ? - Great Excitement. - Arrival of Mangus Colo- rado. - The Plunder. - The Scalps. - IIis Welcome to the White Man. - What Cochise says. - A Description of the Great Apache Chief. - Ilis reception by his Tribe. - Gold. - A Mule flayed alive. - A terrible Sight. - A Feast in Preparation. - My Invitation thereto. - I modestly decline. - The Scalp Dance and Feast. - Mule Meat in demand. - A Description of the Dance. - The Feast, and who partook. - Sick and disgusted. - A Description of the Valley by Moonlight. - Wonderful Effect of the Camp Fires. - The Apaches' Creed. - Thrilling Account of the Sacrifice of a beautiful Mexican Girl. - Her Ashes scattered to the Winds.
- 114
CHAPTER IX.
I want to go Home. - The advice of Cochise. - The Women and Children of the Rancheria. - The Navajoe Country. - How the Navajoes make Blankets. - Their Manners and Customs. - Their Religion. - Singular Superstition re- garding a Firebrand. - Its origin. - How the Apaches tan Deer-skins. - A visit from Mangus Colorado. - Diplomacy. - I lose a Mule, but not my Scalp. - Adieu to the Apache
13
CONTENTS.
Rancheria .- On the Trail. - The Scenery. - The Organ of the Almighty ; His hand fingers the Keyboard. - Morning. - An alarm. - We meet Friends. - Dr. Parker and Jimmy. - Jimmy's Experience in crossing the Cañon. - He refuses to "inter the Crack." - A ludicrous Adventure. - Captured by the Apaches. - Startling Effect of the Fire in the Canon. - "Down into Hell without the Absolution of a Praste, or the Satisfaction of dyin'." - We recross the Cañon. - Arrival at the Apache Pass. - 127
CHAPTER X.
A Trip to Tucson. - The Scenery. - A Mirage. - Jimmy's Pursuit of a Bath. - His Return. - He "don't know." - Our Camp for the Night. - A dry Run, a wet Run, before Morning. - We lose our Wheels. - A Search for them. - Jimmy's Consternation. - The Lake and the Mountain Tor- rent too much for him. - " The Lake as dhry as powther." - Where are our Wheels ?- " The Divil has 'em." - A Fix, and how we got out of it. - Once more on the Road. - A Mescal Distillery. - How they make it, and how they drink it. - Jimmy the Worse for it. - Arrival at Tucson. - The City and its Inhabitants. - The Santa Cruz. - The Mission of San Xavier del Bac. - Built in 1678 by the Jesuits. - Its great architectural Beauty. - Description of the Buildings. - Its Lesson. - Desolation and Decay. - The Papago Indians. - Old José, their Chief. - IIis Dress and personal Appearance. - Jimmy compares him to the Kings of "Ould Ireland." - Vespers in the old Mission .- The Choir. - Effect of the Music. · 143
CHAPTER XI.
Bill May's Ranche. - Bill's History. - How he "bags" the Apaches. - His Story. - The Valley of the Santa Cruz. -
14
CONTENTS.
Arrival at Tubac. - Its Inhabitants and Trade. - Descrip- tion of the Town. - "Good action." - The Mission of San José Tumaccari. - Its present Condition. - Its beautiful Situation. - Apache Depredations. - Killed by Apaches. - Captain Ewell. - The Patagonian Mine. - Worked by the Spaniards in 1760. - Its Machinery. - The Apaches and the Boiler. - The Ore and its Yield. - What it Assays. - Destruction of the Mine by the Apaches. - A morning Excursion and the Beauties of Nature. - An unexpected Sight. - "To be, or not to be." - Apaches. - As they ad- vance, I retreat. - The best Time I ever made. - Hatless, but not Witless, I reach the Camp. - Captain Ewell's Pur- suit. - Campaigning Qualities of the Apaches. - What they can endure. - My Escape and its Lesson. - Jimmy's Ideas of early Birds and Worms.
. 162
CHAPTER XII.
The Santa Rita Mountain and its Mine. - The Ore and its Value. - How the Apaches destroyed it. - The Salero Mine. - How it was worked in 1760. - Wood and Water. - Why it is called the Salt-Cellar Mine. - The Bishop of Sonora is entertained by the Holy Fathers at Tumaccari. - He wants a Salt-Cellar, and gets it. - A Happy Thought. - The Bustillo and other Mines. - Their enormous Yield. - The Foe of Industry and Civilization. - Fort Buchanan. - Visit to the Heintzleman Mine. - It assays Nine Thou- sand Dollars to the Ton. - Average Yield. - The brave old General. - How the Mine was destroyed. - The Ari- vacca Ranche and Mine. - Jimmy's first Shot at a Deer. - It proves to be a good one. - He stays by it. - Is sent for. - His Trial. - The Evidence and Verdict. - " The gin- eral Diciptiveniss of the Counthry." - Venison Steaks. - Apache Depredations. - Protection. - Farewell to Tubac. - Arrival at San Xavier. - Jimmy and the King. - A Cock Fight after Vespers. -
· 172
15
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XIII.
A. Visit to the Pimo Villages. - We leave Jiminy at San Xavier. - Our Arrival among the Pimos. - Their Civiliza- tion .- Four Hundred Miles of Acequias. - Their Houses. - Their Weapons. - The only successful Apache Fighters. - An Ark of Safety. - A Visit to the "Casas Grandes." - Our first Sight of these Wonders of the Desert. - Their Con- dition. - What Mr. Bartlett said of them in 1852. - A Description of the Buildings. - The Elevation and Ground Plan. - The Pottery found here. - Remarkable Evidences of an Extinct Civilization - The Buildings supposed to be Eight Hundred Years Old. - Forty Miles of Ruins. - The Work of whose Hands ? - Father Pedro Font visits them in 1775. - Extracts from a Manuscript Copy of his Journal. - Condition of the Ruins at the Time of his Visit. - A Description of them as Mangi found them in 1694. - Father Kino says Mass in them in that Year. - What the Government ought to do. - Speculations. - Return to the · 184 Pimo Villages.
CHAPTER XIV.
The Montezuma Indians. - Their distinguishing Characteris- tics. - The Ruins upon the Rio Verde and Salina River. - The four-story Houses, and who built them. - Gold and Silver Ornaments. - Cochise and the Apaches. - The Gold- bearing Region of Arizona. - In the Heart of the Apache Country. - Virgin Gold in the Hands of the Apaches. - They refuse all Information concerning it. - Felix Aubrey's Visit to the Gold-bearing Region in 1849. - What he found there. - Extent and Value of the Deposits. - The Indians use Golden Bullets. - Aubrey's Death. - Silver. - The Mountains full of it. - Gila City. - Up like a Rocket, down like a Stick. - Good-by to the Pimos. - Return to Tucson. - Jimmy puts in an Appearance. - What we saw in Tuc-
16
CONTENTS.
son. - How the Inhabitants amuse themselves. - Distin- guished Characters. - A Tragedy .- Mrs. Paige again. - Shocking Sight. - We leave Tucson under Captain Ewell's Escort. - Scenery. - Apaches. - The Flight and Pursuit. - A Spirited Scene. - Will they overtake us ? - Camp. - The Return. - Result of the Chase. - Expedition into the Mountains. - What we found. - The Apaches asleep. - The Apaches awake. - An exciting Adventure. - A Stam. pede. - What happened, and how it happened. - 199
CHAPTER XV.
A Storm in the Mountains, and what came of it. - How the Apaches stampede Stock. - What Captain Ewell found. - On the Road once more. - The Captain meets his Apache Friends. - How they shook Hands. - We find Cochise at Apache Pass. - The San Cimon. - Castles in Spain. - What shall we do ? - Apache Attack. - A lucky Shot. - Consternation. - The Return for the Dead. - I acquire a Reputation as a Marksman, and take good care not to spoil it. - Attack upon the Overland Mail Coach. - The Con- ductor killed. - The Great Door to the Pacific Slope. - Doubtful Pass. - Stein's Peak. - Watch and Ward. - The Backbone of the Continent. - A Magnificent Sight. - Mountain Sheep. - A Mountain Lake. - Two tiny Streams, springing from the same Source .- A Continent divides them. - The Cereus Grandes .- A Picture. - A Mirror silvered by Nature's own Hand. - The Moonlight and its Effect. - The Soldier's Farewell. . 220
CHAPTER XVI.
Thirty-two Miles. - A Panorama. - Grand Mountain Scenery. - Our Descent. - The Great Plateau. - A natural Route for a Railroad. - The Thirty-second Parallel. - A parched and endless Waste. - No Water. - A wonderful Mirage. -
17
CONTENTS.
The " Playas" of the great Plateau. - Barney Station. - How we reached La Mesilla. - Jimmy enacts "Sinbad the Sailor." - Fort Fillmore. - Visitors from the East, and their sad l'ate. - Our Revenge. - Arizona and New Mexico one. - How and when it was divided. - The geographical Boundaries. - I determine to visit the Zunis. - Prepara- tions for the Trip. - Jimmy promoted. - About the Seven Cities of Cibola. - Conquered by the Spaniards in 1540. - Joseph de Bazemzalles visits Zuni in 1526. - He leaves his Name on Inscription Rock. - What the Abbé Domenech says of it. - Father Marcos de Niza's Explorations in 1535. - The Arabian Negro Esteva. - The Friar IIonoratus. - Father Niza " follows where the Holy Ghost did lead." - His Description of the Inhabitants. - Gold. - Turquoise and Cotton Cloth. - Father Niza and the Negro Quarrel. - Esteva sets out on a Voyage of Discovery. - He finds the City of Cibola. - Dress of the Inhabitants. - Girdles of Turquoise. - Gowns of Cotton Cloth. - Ox Ilides. - Father Niza is received by the Children of the Desert. - He hears of Cibola and Marata. - Acus. - Totonteac. - The wild Beasts of the Kingdom. - He learns the sad Fate of the Negro Esteva. - He sees Cibola from the Top of a Mountain. - What he says of it and its Inhabitants. - IIe returns to Culican. - The Valley of the Rio Verde. - Conjectures. - Captain General Governor Francisco Vas- quez de Coronado. - His Expedition to conquer Cibola .- His Army. - Easter Morning, 1540, and what it saw. - 235
CHAPTER XVII.
Forty Days' Toil. - Red Town. -- Coronado's Troubles. - His Men and Horses Starve. - Don Tristan d'Arellano his Lieutenant. - The Reserve. - Description of the won- derful Country through which he passed. - He arrives be- fore the Walls of Cibola. - Determines to attack the City. - Desperate Assault and Repulse. - The final Assault and Capitulation of the City. - What Coronado found therein. - 3
1
.
18
CONTENTS.
-
The Expedition of De Cardenas. - What it found. - Don Tristan arrives with his Army. - A Terrible March. - Coronado's Report to Charles V. - Acuco. - Crooked- backed Oxen. - Coronado marches on Tiguex. - A Des- perate Fight. - Pecos. - Montezuma's Temple. - The Fire-worshippers and the Sacred Flame. - The Legend of Montezuma. - His Prophecy. - Singular fulfilment of it. - The Sacred Flame kept burning for more than three Centuries. - What happened in 1542. - Coronado deter- mines to return to Culican. - An Accident. - He departs in April, 1543. - Conjectures. - We leave for Zuni. - The Valley of the Rio Grande. - Albuquerque. - Kit Carson the Veritable. - He " don't fear no Injun a-livin'."- We take a Guide. - All about Don Rafael. - Off for Zuni at last. - Our Camp at Isletta. - What happened there. - The Rio Grande on a "Bender."- Jimmy dumbfounded. - He calls loudly on the Virgin. - On which side of the River are we ?- Singular Freak of the Rio Grande. - Jimmy pronounces it " the Divil's own Work, sure." - -
- 263
CHAPTER XVIII.
On the Road to Laguna. - The Valley of the Rio Puerco. - New Mexican Sheep. - The Herders and their Dogs. - Wonderful Sagacity. - Navajoe Depredations. - What they have stolen. - Expeditions against them. - How the Government treated them. - The Puerco .- In Camp. - Don Rafael's Stories. - Game of the Country. - Jimmy deter- mines to go Deer hunting. - He shows us how they hunt Deer in ".Ould Ireland." - A Misfortune. - Jimmy's sud- den Disappearance. - How the "Powther laked out of his Gun." - The Rio San José. - The Pueblo of Laguna. - How the Houses are built without Doors or Windows. - The Temple - An Extinct Volcano. - We. ascend to the top of the Temple. - Peach and Apricot Orchards. - En Route for Acoma. - Its Situation on the top of a Rock
19
CONTENTS.
Three Hundred and Fifty Feet High. - The only Means of Ascent. - W ter Tanks. - The Houses. - The People. - The Government. -- Jimmy is troubled. - The Women of Acoma. - Stuffed Legs - An Acoma Belle. - Jimmy attempts to form a "Mathrimonial Alliance." - How we de- feat the Project. - We leave Acoma.
CHAPTER XIX.
Sunrise and its Beauties. - The Ladder leading to the Gates of Paradise. - The Mountain Scenery. - A Motionless Sea. - What we find Six Thousand Feet above the Level of the Ocean. - The tawny Coyote. - Breakfast and a Fresh Start. - The " Agua Frio." - Moonlight. - The Awful Silence. - It overwhelms me as does the Thought of the Infinite. - Nature in an Eternal Sleep. - The Coyote's Bark. - I disturb the Camp. - To Bed at last. - A moan. - Jimmy's Sickness. - His Tears. - The Doctor won't Prescribe. - Jimmy's last Chance. - He " hankereth " after the Flesh Pots of Acoma. - The Sierra Madre Range. - The Navajoe Pass. - What it looks like, Seven Thousand Three Hundred and Twenty-one Feet above the Level of the Sea. - Acoma in the Distance. - The Carizo Springs. - What the Country west of us resembles. - In Camp. - Reflections. - We moralize. - - 290
CHAPTER XX.
The Adventures of the Night. - A Moonlight Scene. - Hush-ah-sh. - " The poor Craythur's lost, an' she's callin' to me." - Attacked by a Panther. - Thrilling Description. - A Desperate Encounter. - We capture him. - Jimmy's valiant Charge. - Who killed the Mule ? - El Moro. - Its Beauties in the setting Sun. - The Valley by Moonlight. - Fancies. - Juan Gonzales in 1629. - Don Diego de Bargas
279
20
CONTENTS.
in 1692. - Don Felix Martinez in 1716. - IIis Expedition to reduce and punish the Apaches, and whas came of it. - What his Majesty said about it. - The Book of History. - Ruins in the Valley. - Descriptic .of them. - The Pottery found here. - The old Watch. Towers. - The Rio Pescado and its Valley. - Lands and Crops. - Jimmy warned. - No more entangling Alliances. - The Blue-eyed, Light- haired Zuris. - Prince Madoc and his Voyage of Discovery in the Twelfth Century. - The Welsh Miners and what came of them. - Singular similarity between the Welsh and Zuni Language. - The Story of the Negro Esteva. - Jimmy " swears a swear." - The Legend of the Rio Pesca- do. - IIow the Fish came in it. - The Rio de Zuni and its Valley.
CHAPTER XXI.
Zuni. - Its Situation. - Our first Sight of the People. - The Products of the Valley. - Jimmy Trades. - A new Steward. - IIis Chagrin. - In Camp. - A Visit from the Cacique, or Governor. - IIis Dress. - A Warning. - An Abattis. - An Examination of the Plain. - The Pits, and how concealed. - Description of the Town. - Characteristics of the Zunis. - The Women. - Jimmy has a Flirtation. - He makes a Present. - Its Object. - Tame Eagles. - The Population. - A Church. - The Council. - The Heads of Departments. - We visit the Sacred Spring. - No one permitted to drink the Water. - The Broken Tenajas. - Communica- tion with departed Spirits. - Singular Customs. - Honor among the Zunis. - Jimmy takes a Drink from the Spring and departs. - We return to Camp troubled. - We miss Jimmy. - He does not return .- Anxiety. - Exercise. - A Conversation, and how it was interrupted. - Do the Mills of the Gods grind slow ? - Nemesis. - 312
- 300
21
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XXII.
Jimmy in Trouble. - Hunting the Animals. - His Betrothal. - Ilis Arrest by the " Bazaque," and what came of it. - The Trials of two fond Ilearts. - Ancient Cibola. - Its Situa- tion. - Ilow we reached it. - The Ascent of a Thousand Feet - The Mountain Scenery. - The San Francisco Peak. - Its snow-clad Summit resembles a huge Crystal. - The Country to the Westward. - The blue Pacific a Thousand Miles away. - An Emerald in a Setting of Topaz. - What we found at Old Zuni. - The Ruins. - The Monuments, and the Legend concerning them. - The Zunis' Ilistory of the Deluge. - Proofs sustaining their Theory. - We visit the Cedar Grove. - The Incantation Scene. - The Sacred Altars. - Traditions and Superstitions. - A beautiful Sight. 329
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