USA > Arizona > The marvellous country : or, Three years in Arizona and New Mexico, the Apaches' home > Part 9
USA > New Mexico > The marvellous country : or, Three years in Arizona and New Mexico, the Apaches' home > Part 9
Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).
Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 | Part 5 | Part 6 | Part 7 | Part 8 | Part 9 | Part 10 | Part 11 | Part 12 | Part 13 | Part 14 | Part 15 | Part 16 | Part 17 | Part 18 | Part 19 | Part 20 | Part 21 | Part 22 | Part 23 | Part 24 | Part 25 | Part 26 | Part 27
Jimmy was really overpowered by the magnificent strut of Old José, and remarked to Dr. Parker, that "you could aluz tell a borned king whiniver yer seen him," a truism that neither Dr. Parker nor myself could contradict, as this was the first specimen of the kind we had ever met, and withal as bare a specimen of a monarch as ever swayed a sceptre.
That evening we attended vesper service in the old church, for the Papagoes still respect the religion of the Catholic Church, taught to their ancestors more than two centuries ago. I was surprised and delighted by the music; it was novel and charming.
When the priest reached a certain portion of the service, the air seemed suddenly filled by the warbling of ten thou- sand birds, whose melodious notes rose and fell and
160
MEMORABLE VESPER SERVICE,
swelled and lingered through the arched passages of the church, now dying away as though in the far distance, and again approaching nearer and nearer, until the very air seemed resonant with the notes of the sweetest feathered songsters.
Again we heard it, but so exquisitely soft and low that its cadences more closely resembled the wailings of an Æolian harp, than music created by mortal agency. Once more it swelled into grand and lofty pæans of praise, until it seemed that such exquisite music must be created by a celestial choir. Even Jimmy, who was devoutly kneeling in prayer, stopped, and looking up, remarked, "What the divil is that now ? I niver heard the likes er that, aven in ould Ireland."
As soon as we could withdraw from the service, the doctor and myself ascended to the gallery of the church, by means of a notched log of wood, that served for stairs.
Here we found, lying flat on their faces upon the floor, a dozen or more youths, before each one of whom stood a small cup of water, in which was inserted one end of split reeds of different sizes, the other end of the reed being held in their mouths, and blowing through it, they produced the sweet sounds which had so enchanted us.
It seemed impossible that such delicious music could be produced by such simple instruments. The vesper service, in the old mission of San Xavier del Bac, was one never to be forgotten.
161
DELIGHT OF JIMMY.
We returned to camp that night well pleased with the experiences of the day, and quite delighted with our visit. Jimmy was highly elated, and frequently remarked that . "he niver expicted to spind another day in the prisence ov a live king," as he persisted in calling Old José.
The next morning's sun found us en route for Tubac, from which point we intended to visit the silver mines of Arizona.
21
CHAPTER XI.
Filled by Apaches
WENTY miles' drive through the rich bottom-lands of the Santa Cruz brought us to Bill May's ranche. Every one in Arizona knew Bill, - a whole-souled, generous- hearted, daring frontierman, who never turned a traveller away hungry from his door, or refused the shelter of his
roof to the unfortunate. We had passed many ranches on our way, seen many fields of waving corn, but had ridden thus far because we wanted to see Bill May.' We found him at home, and he bade us "Enter" in the loud, cheery · tones of a man whose heart was in his words; and the warm, friendly shake of the hand with which he greeted us spoke a sincere welcome.
May was a fine, athletic fellow, fully six feet in height,
(162)
163
TUBAC.
as brave as Julius Cæsar, and as cool as a cucumber, never losing his presence of mind under any circumstances. He was at war with the Apaches, and took every opportunity to "bag" some of them, as he expressed it. Only a few days before, he had followed a party who had stolen some of his cattle, and not only recovered the stock, but "bagged" two of the Indians, of which fact he felt justly proud.
A hearty supper of venison, with plenty of good coffee to enliven us during the evening, and help us swallow some of the Indian stories Bill entertained us with, together with a clean, sweet bed to sleep in, - the first we had occupied since we left Mesilla, - rested and refreshed us for our morrow's journey.
A delightful drive of some twenty miles through a most beautiful portion of the Territory, was the route for the day. We passed numerous traces of former cultivation, in the shape of unused and dry acequias, extending for miles in all directions, together with the remains of old ranches and adobe walls, which presented a sad contrast to the bright beauties of the day and the green bottom-lands of the Santa Cruz. It was late in the afternoon when we reached Tubac, which at that time was the head-quarters of the most refined and intelligent portion of the inhabitants of the Ter- ritory, - gentlemen from the East, in charge of the silver mines in this vicinity; scientific men, sent out to explore and report upon newly-discovered mines; German metallur-
164
THE MISSION OF TUMACCARI.
gists; officers of the military fort situated near by, - in short, the élite of Arizona called Tubac their home. It was also the head-quarters of the Arizona Mining Com- pany; and it was here that we met Mr. Poston, the agent and superintendent of the company.
The town itself was very attractive, with its beautiful groves of acacias, its peach-orchards and its pomegranates, situated, as it is, immediately on the banks of the Santa Cruz, and embowered in the most luxuriant foliage. In close proximity to this town are to be found the Santa Rita, the Heintzleman, and the Cerro Gordo mines, the richest yet discovered in the Territory. Game was very abundant, and our larder was well supplied with venison, wild turkey, fish, and many other creature comforts, much to the evident de- light of Jimmy, who, in addition to the fact that he was cook, greatly loved "good aitin."
The population of Tubac consisted of about eight hundred souls, one-sixth of whom were Americans and Germans, the remainder Being Sonoranians, with a few Yaqui Indians. This town, like Tucson, was originally an old Mexican fort, which, after the establishment of the boundary line, was de- serted by the Mexicans, and the first settlement of Ameri- cans was made here in the year 1856. The only business transacted was that done by the mining company, if we except the trade in mescal, which was very extensive.
Four miles below Tubac, on a beautiful slope of the Santa
165
VISIT TO THE SILVER MINES.
Cruz, is another old mission building erected by the Jesuits, known as the mission of San José de Tumaccari, which was built about the time of that of San Xavier del Bac, though it is far from being in as good a state of preservation, owing, no doubt, to the vandalism of the Americans and the depredations of the Apaches. In fact, the building is but little better than a mass of ruins. . Like all these missions, Tumaccari was located in a fine agricultural country, as shown by the remains of old acequias, as well as the many cultivated fields that are plainly discernible for miles around; nor can there be any doubt that the Santa Cruz Valley was once the home of a vast population, though now, owing to the constant raids of the Apaches, 'tis but a barren waste.
Gravestones, or rather head-boards, stand by the road-side like sentinels, bearing the invariable inscription, -
"KILLED BY THE APACHES."
Ruined ranches, deserted haciendas, and untilled fields stare you in the face whichever way you turn, and tell a story that cannot fail to awaken in the mind of the beholder the most melancholy reflections.
A visit to Fort Buchanan, the next day, at the head of the charming Sonoita Valley, where we met with Captain R. S. Ewell and the officers of his command, was a most enjoyable one in every way. Upon Captain Ewell's express-
166
VALUE OF THE ORE.
ing a desire to visit some of the silver mines in the vicinity, we urged him so strongly to accompany us that he finally consented; and, accepting the generous hospitality offered by him, we remained over night at the Fort, and the next morning, in company with the captain and an escort of ten mounted men, we left Fort Buchanan for a visit to the silver mines of Southern Arizona. We decided to first visit the Patagonia mine, then owned by Sylvester Mowrey, one of the first American settlers in the Territory. We found Mr. Mowrey at the mine, and received from him some important. information concerning it, which may be of interest to the reader.
The mine is situated in the Santa Cruz Mountains, about six thousand feet above the level of the sea. It is nearly three hundred miles from Guaymas, on the Gulf of Califor- nia, and about ten miles from the Sonora line. It was worked by the Spaniards as early as 1760, abandoned on account of Apache raids in 1820, and was rediscovered by Mr. Mowrey in 1856. At the time of our visit, the com- pany were engaged in putting in a steam-engine, which had been hauled by mules from Lavaca, in Texas, a distance of fourteen hundred miles. A boiler weighing nearly six thousand pounds had also been brought in the same way, to the great terror of the Apaches, who not only kept a respectable distance from it, but could not be induced to approach it, believing it to be a huge cannon, brought into
167
OVERTAKEN BY APACHES.
1
the country to accomplish their immediate and entire de- struction at one discharge.
The necessary buildings for the machinery, the smelting- - houses, reduction works, store-houses, and dwellings for the peons was a most pleasing sight in contrast to the signs of desolation to be seen in all other directions. The ore taken from this mine is an argentiferous galena, strongly impreg- nated with arsenic, and is easily mined and reduced. There are three veins, each large and well defined. The ore was yielding from sixty to seventy dollars per ton, which was considered a large paying yield. Since that time, a day's working, or twenty tons of ore, has yielded as high as sixteen hundred dollars, at an actual cost of about four hundred.
Notwithstanding these results, the proprietors have never been able to realize much profit from it, on account of the depredations of the Indians; and shortly after my visit, a band, of Apaches drove off all of the company's stock, and murdered the superintendent and many of the miners: since then the mines have been unworked, the valuable ma- chinery useless, many of the buildings destroyed, and deso- lation and decay have left their sad marks on all around.
That night we encamped near the foot of the Pintos Mountains, in a beautiful grove of cotton-wood, beside a spring whose clear, sparkling waters we found to be quite as cool as we cared to drink.
Rising early the next morning, I set out for a walk of
168
OVERTAKEN BY APACHES.
three or four miles, to visit a pass, or cañon, in the moun- tains, whose beauty I had often heard extolled by Captain Ewell. I had gone nearly two miles from camp, and was admiring the grandeur of the mountain scenery before me, whose peaks were fairly gleaming in the rays of the rising sun, when my ear caught the sound of unshod horses' feet resounding on the hard, pebbly soil, like the muffled gallop of a distant squad of cavalry. Failing to detect the sharp ring of the iron hoofs of our American horses, I at once decided that it was a party of Indians approaching. Hastily secreting myself behind a thick clump of hackberry, I breathlessly awaited further developments; nor had I long to wait, for I soon saw approaching a party of eight Apaches, each bestriding an animal gaudily caparisoned with eagles' feathers and brass ornaments.
They passed very near me, - so near, in fact, that I was enabled to note the face and peculiar ornaments of each one of the party. Not a sound was heard save the foot- steps of their horses, nor was a word spoken as long as they remained in sight. Each one was naked, save the breech-clout, and carried in his hand the hated spear sc well known and dreaded among the settlers in Arizona, while to the saddles of four of the party was tied an old Mississippi Yauger, of antiquated make and flint lock, yet quite effective in the hands of Apaches. Their faces and bodies were well striped with vermilion, ochre, and
169
A HURRIED RETURN.
black, and as they passed, each brave sitting erect, and as firm as a rock upon the back of his horse, their eyes constantly turning to the right and left, as if scanning every bush and rock that might permit concealment for a foe, I could but admire their dignified and soldier-like
I RETURN TO CAMP WITHOUT MY HAT.
bearing, though I well knew that a discovery of my hiding- place would be certain and speedy death to me. I am bound to confess that during the time they were in sight I was more quiet than I had ever been before in my life.
As soon as the Indians were well out of sight, I started
22
170
DISCIPLINE OF THE APACHES.
for camp. I started in haste, too; not because I was hungry, as much as because I was lonesome and particularly anxious to see my friends.
In thinking the thing over, I am convinced that there is no white man living at the present time, who ever got over more ground in a shorter space of time, than did I in going from the clump of hackberry to our camp. When I reached the camp I was somewhat "blown," and found that I had very carelessly left my hat somewhere on the route. I needed that hat badly, still I decided not to go back after it, nor have I seen it to this day.
As soon as I could obtain a sufficient amount of breath to enable me to explain the circumstances of my hasty entry into camp, Captain Ewell started at once with eight of his men, in the hope of overtaking them. We remained here all day, and it was not until late in the evening that the captain and his party returned, without having been able to come up with the Indians, who managed to secrete themselves as soon as they reached the mountains.
The Apaches, when on a raid or on the war-path, are allowed to eat but one meal a day, and to rest but three hours out of the twenty-four. Their discipline when on their excursions is splendid, quite equal to that of any army of civilized soldiers, while their ability to endure the hard- ships and discomforts of a campaign is far superior to that of white men.
171
COYTERO APACHES.
The Indians whom I encountered in my morning ramble were, undoubtedly, Coytero Apaches, and a part of Deligado's band. It is hardly necessary to say that I did not take any more lonely rambles, but confined myself strictly to camp, much to the delight of Jimmy, who re- marked in my presence, that "such an escape ought to be a warnin' to any man that was in the habit of wanderin' over the counthry when honest men should be in bed and aslape."
CHAPTER XII.
The Bishop of Sonora
E broke camp early the fol- lowing morning, in order to reach the Santa Rita mine, situated in the Santa Rita Mountains, the next day, the distance being about forty miles. We found at the mine a Mr. Grosvenor, who was the general manager of affairs there. He had but recently been appointed to the position, and was laboring hard to get things in order. He informed us that the Apaches, within the past twelve months, had killed his. three predecessors in the management of the mines; and within six months from that time, Mr. Grosvenor suffered a similar fate.
Up to the time of our visit, several assays of the ore had been made, yielding from sixty to four hundred dollars to
(172)
173
THE SALERO MINE.
the ton. In less than a year afterwards, the Apaches had killed all the miners and stolen the stock, thus forcing the company to abandon the enterprise which had given such promise of great success. In close proximity to the Santa Rita mine, and in the same range, is the Salero mine. This mine is advantageously located as regards wood and water, and at the time of our visit was regarded as one of the most valuable mines in the Territory. Mr. Grosvenor informed us that more than a hundred and twenty years before it was worked under the superintendence of the Jesuits, then living at the mission of Tumaccari, and at that time yielded very large quantities of silver. The settlers about, call it the Salt-cellar mine, and tell the following story of the origin of the name.
At the time the Jesuits were working the mine, the bishop of Sonora, a very distinguished person in those days, took it into his head to visit the good fathers at Tumaccari. He arrived at the mission with a numerous retinue, and surrounded with much pomp and state. Now the bishop was but a man, after all, and a man somewhat noted for the same distinguishing characteristics that our friend Jimmy possessed, viz. he loved "good aitin." So when the holy fathers ascertained whom their guest really was, they hastily bestirred themselves, that they might give him a fitting reception, and an entertainment worthy of his Reverence. Everything was at length satisfactorily
174
A MASSIVE SALT-CELLAR.
arranged. The capons were fat, the mutton fine, the wines delicious, the fruit luscious, - in short, everything that could tickle the palate and delight the taste abounded in lavish profusion. The good bishop, however, liked his food well seasoned, and in the midst of the sumptuous repast was confounded to discover a lack of salt, where- upon he called loudly for a salt-cellar.
Imagine the confusion and dismay of the holy fathers at being obliged to confess that within the walls of Tumaccari such an article as a salt-cellar could not be found.
"No salt-cellar!" cried the bishop. "Why, I would as soon think of keeping house without a house, as without a salt-cellar."
Humbly acknowledging their fault, the fathers could only promise that on the morrow the desired article should be procured.
"Well and good," said the bishop; "and for this once the omission shall be pardoned."
After the dinner was over, the good fathers consulted together as to how the missing salt-cellar could be supplied on so short a notice. At length a bright idea dawned upon them; and hastily summoning some peons, one of the fathers took them in charge, and started for the mine. The ore was dug, smelted, and, ere sunrise the next morning, made into a massive salt-cellar, so wonderful and valuable that the fame of it has descended even to this day and generation,
175
FORT BUCHANAN.
and it is to be seen in the bishop's palace at Hermosillo, the wonder and delight of all beholders.
From this story the mine receives its name of Salero. This mine, together with the Fuller, Encarnation, Bustillo, Crystal, Cazador, and Tenaja, all in the same range, are mines that were worked many years ago by the Spaniards, and, although yielding largely, were abandoned on account of the Apaches.
There are hundreds of mines in the different ranges of . mountains in this vicinity, all rich, and many, having yielded enormously when worked, now abandoned and desolate, as it has been proved impossible to work them so long as that common foe to industry and civilization, the Apache, remains unconquered.
Captain Ewell determined to start for Fort Buchanan at once; and we reached the fort about midnight, right glad to once more see around us signs of life and civilization. After refreshments, and a good whiskey toddy, mixed by the captain himself, we retired to our bed, and sought that rest and sleep we so much needed.
The next morning we returned to Tubac, where we remained for the day, to the evident satisfaction of Jimmy, who expressed himself heartily sick of "pokin' his nose into ivery hole in the ground that we come to, and Injuns all around us."
The next day, in company with Mr. Poston and Mr.
1.76
THE HEINTZLEMAN MINE.
Cross, we started on a visit to the Cerro Colorado mine, better known as the Heintzleman mine, which derived its name from our brave old general of that name, who in early Arizona times was stationed in the Territory, and who, per- haps, did more to protect the citizens and develop the min- eral resources of Arizona than any one man before or since.
The mine when we were there had passed into the hands . of a company who have since taken the name of the Arizona Mining Company. The mine is situated in the Cerro Colorado Mountains, at once the richest and most barren range in the whole Territory. It is distant from Tubac about twenty-five miles, and at the time of our visit was in successful operation, employing about two hundred men, and paying a very handsome profit.
Mr. Poston very kindly placed at our command all the facilities in his power to enable us to explore the mine, besides giving us much valuable information concerning it. At that time the main shaft had reached a depth of one hun- dred and twenty feet, and the ore seemed to yield far better than it had yet done. The ore at a depth of thirty feet had yielded sixty dollars to the ton; at a depth of sixty feet it had yielded nearly two thousand dollars to the ton; and an assay had just been made in San Francisco of the ore at a depth of one hundred feet, and found to yield the enormous sum of nine thousand dollars to the ton.
Mr. Poston was satisfied that the ore would average as
177
DISAPPEARANCE OF JIMMY.
high as six hundred dollars per ton, which, even when com- pared with the richest silver mines in Mexico and Nevada, is very large, their average being from sixty to eighty-five dollars to the ton.
The Heintzleman mine is, without doubt, the richest silver mine in the world; but in 1862, the Apaches made a descent upon it, murdering Mr. Poston and many of the miners, since which time the mine, like nearly all others in Arizona, remains unworked.
The same company of capitalists who own this mine, are also the owners of the celebrated Arrivacca ranche, a few miles distant, which is said to be the most valuable property in the Territory, containing some thirty thousand acres of fine agricultural land, together with many valuable silver leads, some of which have been worked, while others are yet virgin to the miner's hand.
While Dr. Parker, in company with Mr. Poston and my- self, had been exploring the wonders of the Cerro Colorado, Jimmy had disappeared, and with him an old but highly- prized Sharp's carbine. Becoming somewhat alarmed for his safety, Mr. Poston kindly dispatched two vaqueros in search of him.
After an hour or so they struck his trail, and following it for some distance, at last found Jimmy sitting upon the carcass of a fine buck, that, much to his surprise, he had succeeded in shooting.
23
178
HE STICKS TO HIS GAME.
The Mexicans not being able to speak a word of English, and Jimmy not understanding a word of Spanish, they found much difficulty in forcing him to comprehend their object in coming after him, he resisting all their attempts to bring him back; for, as it was the first deer that Jimmy had ever killed, he had no idea of leaving it until it was brought into camp.
The vaqueros, finding their efforts unavailing, returned to Mr. Poston to report. After listening to the story, Dr. Parker volunteered to take a wagon and go with the men to bring the game into camp. Although quite late when the doctor reached the spot, he found Jimmy patiently wait- ing by the side of his prize for the arrival of some one to assist him to bring the game in.
In the mean while Mr. Poston and myself had quietly arranged a plan of action for our evening's amusement. The sound of wheels in the distance, together with voices, Jimmy's "rich Irish brogue" being easily distinguishable, announced the return of the party. Jimmy soon appeared, highly elated, and begging us to go at once and look at the game. We found it a very fine buck; and Mr. Poston, after examining it attentively for a few moments, gravely re- marked to me,-
"Yes, that is the animal; I should have recognized it among a thousand." And then turning to Jimmy, re- quested him to relate his story, which he was nothing loath to do.
179
ROBBED OF THE GLORY.
As soon as he reached the part where, in his own phrase- ology, "he fired at the deer shure, " we all looked grave and incredulous, but said not a word, much to Jimmy's surprise and perplexity.
After he had finished his story, I turned to Mr. Poston,
JIMMY'S TRIAL.
and asked him if that was the deer which he had referred to. He replied in the affirmative; and in proof of his assertion brought forward the two vaqueros, whose testimony I gravely interpreted into English, to the effect that the deer had been lying in the spot where Jimmy had found it for more than
180
CONVINCED AGAINST HIS WILL.
a week; that they had repeatedly seen it there, and that was the cause of their going that way in search of Jimmy.
Requesting Dr. Parker to examine the wound, he did so, pronouncing it to be an old one, and assuring us that the deer must have been dead some time, and evidently had died from weakness occasioned by loss of blood.
Jimmy was confounded,- utterly nonplussed! In vain did he show the rifle, and declare "by the blissid Virgin" that he killed the deer. The more he protested, the stronger grew the evidence against him, until at last the poor fellow was made to believe that he had had no hand in the death of the animal, although he remarked, that "this was the most deciptive counthry that any mon iver lived in, and that he would like to lave it at onet for a place where a mon's eyesight didn't decave him in the outrageous manner it did here."
Need help finding more records? Try our genealogical records directory which has more than 1 million sources to help you more easily locate the available records.