USA > Arizona > The marvellous country : or, Three years in Arizona and New Mexico, the Apaches' home > Part 15
USA > New Mexico > The marvellous country : or, Three years in Arizona and New Mexico, the Apaches' home > Part 15
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Bidding good-bye to our friends in Albuqurque, we started about ten o'clock in the morning for the little village of Isletta, where we were to cross the Rio Grande, our new guide riding some distance ahead of us on a tough little mule that one could almost have carried under his arm, had it not been for his kicking propensities, which, to our cost, we found largely developed.
At Isletta we found a very neat, well-to-do village, the houses being of adobe, and nicely whitewashed, giving to the place a cheerful, pleasant aspect, rarely found in Mexi- can towns. They were large and well-constructed; the acequias nicely kept, and the vineyards yielding abundantly, all the result of Indian labor.
We were soon encamped in a shady, pleasant spot near the river-bank, and enjoying a most excellent repast, which Jimmy, in company with Don Rafael, had provided for us, not forgetting a generous supply of Isletta wine, as
275
JIMMY ASTONISHED.
well as some very fine grapes sent us by Don Jesus Barela.
In talking over the matter with Dr. Parker, we concluded that our first objective points should be Laguna and Acoma, and that from these pueblos our course should be for Zuni by the most direct and casily travelled route. After making these points we should be guided by circumstance, having supplies sufficient to last fifty days.
We retired to rest quite early, as we naturally expected some delay in fording the river at this place, which was about three hundred feet wide, though not more than three or four feet deep.
The Rio Grande is one of the most uncertain streams in the known world, owing to the peculiar nature of the soil through which it runs. Its bottom is nothing less than a mass of quicksand; and as we had been informed that the ford here was hazardous and very uncertain, it was with no enviable feeling that we looked at the muddy, turbid water, and realized the difficulties we might encounter in getting our mules and heavily-laden wagon safely across the stream and up the steep bank on the opposite side.
Early in the morning we were awakened by the loud cries of Jimmy, who was exclaiming in a loud tone of voice that "millions wouldn't timpt him to take another stip in such a damned counthry ez this; for if 'twasn't thim bloody Injuns 'twas somethin' ilse, and he was goin' home imma
276
JIMMY ALARMED.
jately, this blissed minnit," at the same time calling loudly upon the "howly saints for protiction." It was some time before we could ascertain the cause of Jimmy's great excite- ment, for he certainly talked very unintelligibly. Finally, however, he became sufficiently calm to ask, "An whare's the river?" Upon our pointing in the direction in which it was supposed to be, Jimmy at once interrupted us with, "That's jist it; the d-d thing is behind us; and how the divil did it git there, is what I want to know."
Sure enough the river was flowing between us and Isletta, scarce half a mile distant, as calmly and quietly as though it had occupied its new bed for the past hundred years. It was with difficulty that we could convince ourselves that such was really the fact, so silently had Nature effected this wonderful change. The only damage done, was the destruc- tion of a portion of Don Jesus Barela's vineyard, and a fine field of Indian corn.
The banks of the Rio Grande being of an exceedingly friable nature, and very sandy, offer but slight resistance to any freak the river may take. Sometimes it destroys whole villages, demolishing corrals, haciendas, ranches, in fact, anything that happens to be in its way whon it starts on its "bender,"- now covering fields of rich alluvial soil with sand and rubbish, again tearing its way through a forest of tall cotton-woods and sycamores, or, selecting a piece of low, rich bottom-land, it takes from one man only to give to another.
277
"DANGEROUS TO BE SAFE."
Within a year of the time of the occurrence just mentioned, it suddenly started around Mesilla, leaving both La Mesilla and Las Cruces on the same bank, while before, it ran between them, making them rival towns, and engendering the same bitter feeling that is experienced in Eastern towns simi-
THE RIO GRANDE AND JIMMY ON A BENDER.
larly situated. Thus it performs the office of peace-maker, while it takes from the rich and gives to the poor; and it certainly verifies the old paradox, that "it is sometimes dangerous to be safo."
In the case cited, we learned that the charge had long
278
REASSURED.
been expected, a circumstance that robbed it of much of the seeming mystery, and permitted us to attribute to natural causes what to Jimmy's excited mind still seemed supernatural to a wonderful degree.
We crossed the old river-bottom as easily as did the Chil- dren of Israel pass through the waters of the Red Sea. It was a long while though before Jimmy recovered from the consternation occasioned by his discovery, and not until we were far on our road towards Laguna, did we succeed in convincing him that it was not "the divil's own wark," instead of a long-expected and natural change in the course of events.
CHAPTER XVIII.
T last we were fairly on our road to Laguna. Soon after leaving the Rio Grande we fell in with an old Mexican ranchero, who was going out to look after a flock of some four thousand sheep, which were feeding on the range in the valley of the San Juan, a branch of the Rio Puerco. We found him, like all Mexicans, extremely ignorant of everything but his own immediate business.
For about ten miles our road, gradually ascending, lay
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280
NEW MEXICAN SHEPHERDS.
through a country quite destitute of vegetation, and present- ing altogether a most barren and cheerless aspect. Sud- denly it began to descend, and we at length found ourselves in the valley proper of the Rio Puerco.
This valley is quite extensive and very flat, and is covered with a species of coarse grass, valuable for sheep and goats, thousands of which were seen grazing on every side. Each flock was accompanied by one or more herds- men - wild, gaunt, half-naked creatures, whose clothing consisted of a sheep-skin tied about their loins, and whose only weapon of defence was a "sling" similar to that with which David of old slew the great Goliath; a weapon which they use with great dexterity and wonderful effect. Their feet were covered with sandals of rawhide, and their bushy, matted locks gave them a ferocious aspect, quite at variance with their general character.
These herders frequently spend months with their flocks far away from the settlements, with only their sheep and dogs for companions, the last-named animals being nearly as intelligent as their masters. I have seen one of the latter with a single word send his dog among a flock of several thousand in pursuit of some sheep that had chanced to stray from a neighboring flock, and invariably the quick- witted animal would single out the intruder in an almost incredibly short time. Many of the rancheros intrust their flocks entirely to the care of these sagacious creatures, who
281
SHEEP-RAISING.
daily conduct them to the range, and as faithfully lead them back to the corral at night.
The soil and climate of New Mexico are particularly adapted to sheep-raising, and since the Navajoe Indians have confined their depredations to the more southern and
NEW MEXICAN SHEPHERD.
western portions of the Territory, the Rio Puerco has become a favorite grazing region for the rancheros.
To give a slight idea of the depredations committed by the Navajoes on the settlers in New Mexico, I sub- join the following table of estimates from the report made
36
282
NAVAJOE THIEVES.
by the United States Territorial marshal, for the year 1850 :-
"Between August 1st, 1846, and October 1st, 1850, the Navajoes stole and carried away from the settlers in the Rio Grande Valley alone, 12,887 mules, 7,050 horses, 31,581 head of horned cattle, 453,293 sheep."
In fact, the thieving operations of this tribe became so extensive that the government sent no less than three expe- ditions against them, the sole object of which was to lay waste and destroy their fields of grain and immense flocks and herds, as starvation seemed the only way of effecting their subjugation.
For eight years the Navajocs remained masters of the situation, until at last, harassed on all sides, they reluc- tantly yielded to the superior prowess of Uncle Sam, and accepted the overtures made by the government. For two years a general peace prevailed, rendering it safe for both the traveller and ranchero to sojourn within their borders.
On our arrival at the Puerco we found but little water, and that, of an extremely poor quality. The banks of the stream near our camp were not more than twelve or fifteen feet high, and were composed of sand and gravel hills with but little vegetation. This camp was at best a dreary one, and the long, tedious hours were enlivened by the stories of Don Rafael concerning the extraordinary quantity of game which we might expect to encounter during our next
283
JIMMY HUNTS A DEER.
day's journey. These wonderful narrations made such a deep impression upon Jimmy's plastic mind that he at once insisted upon putting every available gun and pistol in working order before retiring for the night. Even an old double-barrelled shot-gun, which we always carried unloaded in the bottom of our wagon, was speedily made ready for active "service."
Nothing disturbed us during the night, save the quick, sharp bark of an occasional coyote, and the answering yelp of some shepherd's dog from the distant hills, or the pecul- iarly mournful note of the whip-poor-will, as he strove to make cheerful the oppressive silence of the vast solitude around us.
We broke camp on the following day, taking up our "line of march" through a portion of country more or less covered with pine forests, through which roamed large num- bers of black-tailed deer, antelope, and rabbits, while the trees seemed fairly alive with squirrels of every variety.
As we were approaching one of these magnificent forests, Jimmy, who had been riding for some time on Don Rafael's mule, suddenly declared his intention of "huntin' daer as it was dun in the ould counthry;" whereupon he seized his double-barrelled gun, and putting spurs to his animal was soor _ost to sight.
In a short time we were startled by a loud halloa, and there soon emerged from the dense underbrush a fine buck,
284
HOW HE LOADED HIS GUN.
of the black-tailed species, who headed directly for us, closely followed by Jimmy, who was wildly urging forward his poor bewildered mule.
Dr. Parker immediately took aim with his carbine, and, as good luck would have it, brought down the buck at the very first shot, to the great discomfiture of Jimmy, who had nearly reached the scene of action. At this juncture a little cloud of dust arose, and for a time both mule and rider were hidden from view. As it cleared away, Jimmy was discovered some distance in advance of his animal, which had unfortunately stepped into a gopher-hole, throwing him into mid-air with a velocity which well nigh deprived the poor fellow of breath. As soon as he had collected his scattered senses, he began a vigorous search for his gun, which he at length succeeded in finding far from the place of his disaster.
Upon coming up with Jimmy, we rallied him upon the way in which "they killed daer in ould Ireland." Hc finally acknowledged that the gun had missed fire twice before the deer had taken to the plain - a bit of informa- tion in no wise surprising, when upon examination we found, that in loading his piece, he had carefully placed a bullet at the bottom of each barrel, quite forgetting the powder which should have accompanied it, - an omission which Jimmy explained, by boldly and unblushingly declar- ing that "the powther had all laked out."
JIMMY'S HUNT.
285
THIE PUEBLO OF LAGUNA.
Soon after this little adventure we entered the valley of the Rio San José, a pretty little stream, upon which stands the old Pueblo of Laguna; and as we journeyed along its pleasant banks, we passed through a grand and magnificent cañon, that soon widened into a fertile valley; and just as the sun was sinking behind the horizon, we reached the Pueblo, which, standing as it does upon the top of a high limestone bluff, seems not unlike some of the old German cities of the Rhine.
The houses here are most quaint in appearance. They are built of stone, plastered with mud, and, like most of the buildings in these old pueblos, have terraces or "lifts,"' each story being narrower than the one below it, thus leav- ing a promenade, to which one can only ascend by means of ladders. At night these ladders are drawn up, and then the occupants are completely isolated from the world.
This pueblo is one of the oldest in New Mexico, and at the time of our visit contained a population of about one thousand souls. The only public building of any importance within its limits is a church, or temple of Montezuma, from the top of which we had a wide-spread view of the sur- rounding country. Thirty miles to the north could be seen a rugged mountain-peak, which the Indians told us was the crater of an extinct volcano. Near by, Mount Taylor uplifted its bald head, until it seemed to pierce the very clouds, while the table-lands around, seemed as smooth as
286
ACOMA.
the waters of one of our great inland lakes. Here and there huge rocks of sandstone, bearing a striking resemblance to domes and towers, were thrown promiscuously over the vast plain. In close proximity to these were truncated cones, broken columns, and enormous vases of strange device, that looked as if they might have been fabricated by giants, ages before.
ACOMA.
Dr. Parker and I spent nearly an hour gazing at this strange scene, and it was not until darkness had descended that we bethought ourselves of the supper which Jimmy and Don Rafael had provided for us on the banks of the San José.
We passed a quiet night, and the next day set out for Acoma, which lies about twenty miles west of Laguna, and
287
A WONDERFUL STAIRCASE.
is undoubtedly the "Acuco" mentioned in Coronado's report, to which reference is made in a former chapter.
Our route during the first day lay through a wild and desolate region, inhabited only by coyotes, black-tailed deer, and antelope. About two o'clock in the afternoon we came in sight of Acoma, which is a city much the same in appearance as Laguna. It stands upon the top of a rock, at least three hundred and fifty feet above the surrounding plain, and seems from its situation to be almost impreg- nable. This pueblo can be reached only by means of a stair- case, containing three hundred and seventy-five steps, cut in the solid rock. At the upper end of this, is a ladder eighteen feet long, made from the trunk of a tree, in which notches have been cut for the feet. Corn and other cereals, together with peaches and apricots, grow near the foot of the rock, their thrifty appearance showing a degree of knowledge in the cultivation of the soil which greatly surprised me. Here also we found cisterns or tanks built of stone, and thoroughly cemented. These were used for holding rain- water, and their capacity was perfectly immense.
This town is composed chiefly of blocks, containing sixty or seventy houses each, generally three stories in height, and built after the same style as those of Laguna. The centre of the town has a plaza, in which stands a once respectable but now neglected Catholic church, upon whose walls hang several very fair paintings. The people seemed
288
JIMMY FALLS IN LOVE.
to be industrious, frugal, and happy, although they bore a very bad name among the inhabitants of the neighboring pueblos, who regard them as little better than robbers. We, however, found them kind and generous as well as hospitable, and anxious to do whatever might contribute to our comfort. Many of their women would not have been uncomely in appearance were it not for the fact that they padded their legs to an enormous size, thus render- ing them anything but attractive.
We spent two days in Acoma and its immediate vicin- ity, more to see the result of a wooing in which Jimmy was interested, than for the purpose of resting; although the delay gave us an opportunity of ascertaining something of its governmental machinery.
The governor is chosen from among the old men by universal suffrage, the only qualification necessary for the position being wisdom. He holds his office during life, and presides over the council, which is composed entirely of old men. The decision of this official is regarded as law in all matters.
Next in rank is a war-captain, who arranges all compa- nies and takes charge of every expedition. He also exer- cises supreme control over all the horses belonging to the pueblo.
Then comes the treasurer, or fiscal chief, who has charge of the council-house, church, etc., and who superintends all
1
289
"THE GIRL I LEFT BEHIND ME."
outlays for repairs, and exercises a supervisory power over all expenditures of whatever nature.
The government of Acoma is in many respects similar to that of all the pueblos, and is universally regarded by those most deeply interested in its success as a very benefi- cent one. .
After we had made all preparations for leaving Acoma, we were considerably surprised at hearing Jimmy declare his intention of remaining behind, "for he had naarly suc- caaded in conthractin' a mathrimonial alliance with a daughther of one of the cooncel," a huge, unwieldy piece of adipose tissue, whose well-stuffed legs caused her to roll about in walking, with a motion very similar to a ship in the trough of the sea during a severe storm. The promise of this tawny, unkempt damsel's hand, together with a flock of sheep and some cattle, had so won upon Jimmy's susceptible heart, that he had determined, here to set up his earthly tabernacle for the remainder of his days. We remonstrated with the enamored wight; we told him of our needs, how necessary he was to our comfort and well-being in general; in fine, we used every available argu- ment against his wild scheme, and at last, after a lengthy war of words, he reluctantly relinquished his fond dreams of love and affluence, and consented to depart with us in the carly morning for Zuni; for daylight found us far on the road towards ancient Cibola.
37
CHAPTER XIX.
Acoma Belle
a
E could have witnessed no more beautiful or enchant- ing sight than the sunrise which burst upon us ere we were half a dozen miles from Acoma. Before us rose the peaks of the Sierra Madre one above the other, cach of an en- tirely different hue, re- minding us of the ladder which Jacob of old saw set up between the earth and the heaven, or of some vast staircase constructed by the Afreets, to enable them to ascend to the very gates of Paradise. The highest of these rugged peaks were just tinged with the golden beams of the god of day, while a light purple mist hugged the bosom of the plain so closely that we seemed to be journeying through a perfectly motionless sea, whose stillness had never been disturbed by
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291
BREAKFAST IN THE DESERT.
a single ripple or a swelling wave. Occasionally a mass of sandstone or a huge granite boulder could be seen rising out of the blue haze, sometimes taking the shape of a graceful turret, or again assuming the proportions of a cas- tellated fortress, while the high mesas, molded as they had been, by the winds and storms of a thousand years, into the most picturesque and fantastic forms, were dimly seen, crowned with curious volcanic and basaltic formations.
The heavy vapor which enshrouded all things was at last dissipated by the full, broad rays of the sun, thereby re- vealing in all its naked, barren deformity the parched, arid desert which we were crossing, at an elevation of more than six thousand feet above the level of the ocean. Not a sound could be heard in this vast solitude, save the foot- steps of our animals; not a living thing met our gaze, save an occasional antelope, as he fleetly bounded away from us, or a prowling, tawny-colored coyote, as he stopped at a safe distance to examine "the situation."
Don Rafael, who had been riding ahead, suddenly halted, and on reaching him, he informed us that this was the very place of places for breakfasting; we accordingly dis- mounted and refreshed "the inner man," our mules mean- while cropping the sweet though scanty herbage which grew around us.
After resting here for a brief time, we resumed our jour- ney; nor did we pause again until we reached a small
292
THE STILLNESS OF SOLITUDE.
rivulet, which our guide called Agua Frio, or cold water, and most grateful did we find its sparkling coolness. This little stream rises in a bed of lava, at an elevation of nearly seven thousand feet above the level of the sea. After flow- ing through this rocky bed for a mile or two, it sinks entirely from sight.
As the day was considerably advanced, our guide pro- posed that we should tarry here for the night, which was swiftly approaching. In a short time our animals were relieved of their burdens, supper was made ready, our blankets spread, and our pipes lighted,- everything promis- ing a good night's repose.
The moon, which was at its full, soon arose; and as I strolled away from the camp, and seated myself upon a fragment of lava at some distance, I could but acknowledge that I was in a fair way to gain some experience of the peculiar influence which fair Luna is said to exert over all who gaze upon her regal beauty. The silence was oppres- sive; it overwhelmed me, as does the thought of the Infi- nite. I fancied myself shut out from the whole world, wrapped in an impenetrable veil of mystery.
Scarcely a breath of air sighed through the tall spires of grass around me. Even the melancholy chirp of the cricket was hushed; the cuckoo and the plaintive whip-poor-will had forgotten their songs; not even the rustle of a leaf dis- turbed the quiet which reigned supreme. Nature seemed
PUEBLO OF LAGUNA.
293
THE BARK OF A COYOTE.
not only to have lost her voice, but to have plunged into an eternal sleep, from which there was no awaking, -a slumber at once so painful and mysterious, that I could have easily fancied the whole world dead, and I alone the only living, breathing thing left upon its pulseless surface. No words of mine can give an adequate idea of the terrible agony with which this dread silence filled me. I could not speak aloud; I felt as though a nightmare was oppressing me.
For more than an hour did I seem thus bound hand and foot; nor did I emerge from the Lethean waters which seemed to have overwhelmed me, until the quick, snarling bark of a coyote, upon some far-off mesa, fell upon my ear. With a thrilling sense of freedom and relief, such as I had never before experienced, I hastily sprang to my feet, and made my way back to the camp, shouting at the top of my voice.
Upon reaching camp I found that my shouts had aroused my comrades, who were greatly exercised as to the cause of the disturbance. Some trivial explanation satisfied their curiosity, and we all sought our blankets. Dr. Parker soon fell into a heavy sleep; but "Nature's sweet restorer" held persistently aloof from my lids, and I lay in my blankets gazing at the moon. Suddenly I was startled by a deep moan, as of some one in great anguish. Listening intently, I soon became convinced that the sound came from the lips
294
A NEW DISEASE ON THE PLAINS.
of Jimmy, who lay at a little distance from Dr. Parker and myself. Upon speaking to him, he crawled slowly from his blankets and came towards me, his face presenting the most perfect picture of abject misery that I had ever seen. I was considerably surprised at this new and inexplicable phase of Jimmy's character, as the reader may well imagine.
"What is the matter, Jimmy ? Are you sick ?" I kindly asked.
"Indade an' I am, juge," was the plaintive reply.
"Where do you feel sick, Jimmy ?" I inquired.
"It's here, surr," he said, placing his brawny hand on his heart; "and sick I am, bedad, at losin' the chance I have."
Even after this explanation I failed to understand the cause of Jimmy's illness; and the sight of two big drops slowly stealing down the poor fellow's weather-beaten cheeks so enlisted my sympathy and commiseration that I aroused Dr. Parker, and urged him to immediate action in Jimmy's behalf. After what seemed to me a very hasty and insuffi- cient examination, he declared that nothing whatever was the matter with the son of Erin, and coolly turned over in his blankets and composed himself to sleep, to my great disgust at his want of feeling.
After plying Jimmy with questions for some time, I became convinced that he was suffering from an acute attack of a disease very common in the East, and but
JIMMY REGRETS LOST OPPORTUNITIES. 295
rarely met with on the plains, - a disease popularly known as "love-sickness."
"O, surr!" he exclaimed, in faltering accents; "to think what an illegant chance I've lost to sitooate misilf for life, - wid foine flucks and hards, and a be-u-tiful wife wid legs
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