USA > Arizona > The marvellous country : or, Three years in Arizona and New Mexico, the Apaches' home > Part 16
USA > New Mexico > The marvellous country : or, Three years in Arizona and New Mexico, the Apaches' home > Part 16
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JIMMY IN TROUBLE.
as big as a wather-boocket: it makes me wape intirely wid thinkin' ov it."
These words so awakened my sense of the ludicrous, that it was with the greatest difficulty I maintained my gravity. After all, the "beautiful wife" was but a
296
HE FEELS BETTER IN THE MORNING.
secondary consideration, and his sighs and moans were wasted on the "flesh-pots" of Acoma, as well as on his dissipated dreams of love.
I meted out to Jimmy what crumbs of comfort I was able, for which he manifested much gratitude. It was very late when we "turned in." Jimmy was soon lost to all his troubles; and slumber, which had kept so coyly aloof, soon visited my eyes.
When I awoke in the morning the sun was high in the heavens. Don Rafael was busily collecting the mules, preparatory to setting out on our journey, while Jimmy, who had apparently recovered from his severe indisposition, was engaged in broiling bacon for our breakfast, at the same time merrily whistling a few bars of "Rory O'Moore." Dr. Parker was sitting in his blankets, with unkempt hair and unwashed face, plucking gray hairs from his long, flowing beard, which, truth compels me to avow, were neither few, nor far between, in my own. As I turned towards him, he slyly remarked that Jimmy seemed in excellent spirits after his severe attack of the previous evening, at the same time quietly insinuating that both he and myself had been par- taking rather too freely of the contents of a certain demi- john, which, it was expressly understood, was only to be uncorked in case of sickness, -an insinuation which I treated with the silent scorn it deserved.
Breakfast well over; our large leathern bottles freshly
297
ON THE PACIFIC SLOPE.
filled from the cool, sparkling waters of the little stream, and firmly lashed under the wagon; the extra mules started under the guidance of Don Rafael, and we were once more on our "winding way." The constantly ascending route gave us a wide-spread view of the plain across which we had passed. One of the most interesting features of the landscape was the town of Acoma, perched high on its cliff, like the eyrie of an eagle, though we could scarcely realize, from the distinctness with which it was visible, rendered thus by the intensely rarefied condition of the atmosphere, that it was more than a couple of miles distant. The sight of its terraced walls seemingly so near by, brought from Jimmy's breast a sigh that sounded like the wailing of the night wind through a forest of pines.
. We reached the summit of the Sierra Madre range at about two o'clock in the afternoon, when the vast extent of country stretching far away towards the mighty Pacific burst upon our view. Mountains, valleys, and plains were here spread out in chaotic confusion. The eye lost itself in immensity, so boundless was the view which confronted us.
We paused here for an hour or more to give our animals rest, and then started for the Carizo Springs, which were about five miles distant. We were now descending the western slope of the Sierra Madre range, towards the Pacific.
Thus far we had been singularly fortunate during our journeyings, for we had not encountered a single hostile
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298
TRACES OF A WHITE MAN'S CAMP.
Indian, nor even a wild beast, with which the country was said to abound. Shall we be similarly favored for the remainder of our travels ? Alas, no! for we were destined soon to meet both of these much-dreaded and dangerous foes of civilization. But let me not anticipate. Evils at best come fast enough, and we were still many days from the longed-for goal.
Our course down the mountain-slope was, necessarily. slow and somewhat difficult; and it was nearly five o'clock ere we reached the springs, at which we proposed to en- camp for the night.
At this point we saw indications of a camp, the first one we had found since leaving the Rio Grande. Don Rafael immediately pronounced it the camp of white men, and also inclined to the opinion that women were of the party, - an assertion which we received with much incredulity, though it afterwards proved to be true.
The spring here was not a very large one, but its waters were sweet and pleasant, and amply sufficed to furnish all that was needful for our own use and that of our ani- mals, while the grass in the vicinity was very abundant, and of an excellent quality.
The adventures and lessons of the night I propose to leave for another chapter, assuring the reader that if he has followed us with interest thus far in our travels over deserts and mountains, and will bear us company still farther, as
299
THE ZUNI COUNTRY.
we penetrate into the wild fastnesses of this far western country, he will find that he has not spent his time wholly in vain: for many novel and wonderful sights await us; many strange adventures, which may perhaps be common enough in the country of which I write, yet to one unfa- miliar with the exciting and adventurous life upon the Mexican frontier, will possess no little interest, while at the same time they will afford the inquiring mind, in its search after a correct knowledge of this most wonderful portion of our marvellous country, an exact description of the Zuni country as it was in 1860.
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CHAPTER XX.
UR camp at the Carizo Springs was destined to be neither an agreeable nor a profitable one, as the reader will readily understand, when I relate the adventures of the night. After we had partaken of our supper, and had seen our animals safely picketed where they could obtain good grass, we seated ourselves around the smouldering camp-fire, and, smoking our pipes, enjoyed the calm beauty of the night. The moonbeams silvered with mellow light each rugged rock, each overhanging cliff, each bristling yucca, until it required no great stretch of the imagination to fancy that we were really standing on one of those fabled moun- tains of silver, the expectation of finding which had led the bold adventurers of the fifteenth century into such incredible toils and hardships.
I retired to rest at an early hour, and was soon in the
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301
MISTAKEN IDENTITY.
peaceful "world of dreams," from which I was suddenly awakened by feeling a hand laid upon my shoulder. I sprang to my feet, revolver in hand; but the bright moon- light revealed to me the fact that it was no one but Jim- my, who in whispered tones told me that "she was a- callin' him." For a moment I fancied that Jimmy had gone mad, when to my surprise a low wail, like that of a child in dire distress, fell upon my ear, apparently so near at hand that I was at once startled and confounded.
"D'ye hear it?" exclaimed Jimmy, excitedly. "The poor crayther's a follerin' me, and it's lost she is, intirely !"
Once more that plaintive cry fell upon my listening ear. "D'ye hear it?" he again repeated. "She's a-cryin' for me, surr; and will yez not be afther hilpin' me foind her ?"
Just at this moment the unmistakable bray of a mule in extreme terror and suffering answered the cry; and for the first time I now realized that the peculiar moans I have described proceeded, not from Jimmy's Acoma charmer, but from a ferocious panther.
Immediately arousing Dr. Parker and Don Rafael, we hurriedly grasped our rifles, and listened intently for the sound to be repeated. At last we heard a low, satisfied growl, as though the creature which had uttered it was con- gratulating himself upon an unexpected and extraordinary piece of good fortune.
We slowly and cautiously started in the direction whence
302 ·
ADVENTURE WITH A PANTHER.
the sound had emanated. After proceeding a short dis- tance, we saw Don Rafael, who was a few steps in advance, suddenly halt, and heard his low, muttered "Carraho!" . The panther had attacked and killed one of our extra mules, which had been picketed beyond the others, and was greedily
NANCREN-SON.
PANTHER HUNT.
devouring such portions of his flesh as seemed to him most palatable. His eyes, resembling coals of fire, gleamed angrily as he occasionally raised his head, lashing his sides with his long, powerful tail. So intent was the animal upon his feast, that evidently he had not observed our approach.
303
A FATAL SHOT.
Don Rafael hastily signified that he desired me to fire with him, while Dr. Parker and Jimmy should reserve their charges until the result of our "rifle-practice" should be- come known. We accordingly raised our rifles, and taking good aim, fired. An angry growl, and the panther was con- fronting us, scarcely thirty feet away. We saw him crouch, ready for a spring. Dr. Parker now raised his piece, and aiming directly between his eyes, hastily fired. One con- vulsive spring into the air, a single yell of mingled agony and rage, and the ferocious beast fell dead. Jimmy imme- diately discharged both barrels of his shot-gun, sending the entire contents into the carcass of the defunct mule.
This panther was a most magnificent specimen of the American leopard, measuring nine feet and eleven inches from his nose to the tip of his tail.
The next morning a close examination revealed the fact that neither the bullets of Don Rafael or myself had touched a vital point, but that Dr. Parker was the fortunate man who was entitled to the skin.
Don Rafael carefully removed the smooth, glossy cover- ing from the carcass, and we took it with us to Zuni, where the doctor readily found an Indian who nicely tanned it for him; and for years he exhibited with no small degree of just pride, the beautiful skin of the American leopard, which he killed upon the western slope of the Sierra Madre · Mountains.
304
EL MORO.
We rallied Jimmy about permitting Don Rafael to remove the skin from his Acoma lady-love, and his reply was quite worthy of the man: -
"It's only turnin' the tables, it is; for if I'd married her, she'd a taken the hide off me intirely, surr."
It was so late before we were ready to resume our jour- ney, that we decided not to attempt to make Zuni until the following day; but to drive only as far as El Moro Valley, where stands the celebrated "Inscription Rock," mentioned in a preceding chapter of this work.
A drive of a few hours on a descending grade served to bring us to this point. We found a most delightful camp- ing-ground, by the side of a spring of water which bubbled up from beneath the very corner of this rock, upon which are inscribed some of the most important events in the his- tory of this wonderful country.
Reclining upon the luxuriant carpet of verdure which Nature had spread on every side, watching the dying rays of the sun as they gilded the stately towers of El Moro, we could but speculate concerning the fate of those gallant cavaliers, who, hundreds of years before, had placed their names upon the smooth, polished surface of this remark- able rock. Who could recount the heroic deeds of "Don Joseph De Bazemzalles," who in "1526," three hundred and forty-seven years ago, inscribed his name on the lower left-hand corner of El Moro? Whence came he, and what
3.05
RECORDS OF THE PAST.
was his fate? And what was the name of him who, as the record says, "passed by the place with dispatches on the 16th of April, 1606"? Who could tell us anything con- cerning the history of "Juan Gonzales," who in "1629" engraved his name on these tables of stone? Or that of "Dr. Don Martini de Cochea, Bishop of Durango, who, on the 28th day of September, 1736, arrived at this place ?" What was his mission in these wilds of the West? For how many years had this old rock thus stood, looking calmly down upon the beautiful valley with its ever-changing scenes ?
But there was no one to answer these questions and the thousand others which suggested themselves to our minds as we lay beneath the black shadows of El Moro. If the old rock could have spoken, what marvellous tales might it not have unfolded! But it stood grim and silent, vouchsafing no reply - a very Sphinx of the desert.
When at length the red and golden tints had faded from the sky, and the moon and stars appeared "in the infinite meadows of heaven," casting a pale, ghastly light over all things, we could almost fancy we beheld the gay and glit- tering cavalcade of "Don Diego de Bargas," with its richly caparisoned steeds and fluttering pennons, as it "passed by in 1692 on its way to conquer Santa Fé for the royal crown, at their own cost." Indeed, we could almost see the stalwart, well-knit form of Don Diego himself, as he quaffed a goblet of water from the spring which mur-
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306
APACHES IN FORMER YEARS.
mured so melodiously at our side. And with him rose to view the bronzed, war-worn countenance of the old Indian fighter, "Don Felix Martinez," who "on the 26th day of August, 1716, passed by on his way to reduce and punish the Apaches."
Poor old Don Felix! Such a task was better fitted for a Ilercules, than a cavalier of the seventeenth century. Ile it was who thus described the Apaches :-
"They are most cruel to those who chance to fall into their hands. They go entirely naked, and make their incursions on horses of great swiftness. A skin serves them for a saddle. They begin their attacks at a great distance, with loud shouts, in order to strike terror to the enemy. They do not naturally possess much courage, but depend upon artifice rather than valor. In case of defeat they submit to the most ignominious terms, but keep their treaties only as long as suits their convenience. His Majesty has ordered that if they desire peace, it shall be granted them; but this generosity they think proceeds from cow- ardice. Their arms are the common bows and arrows of the country. The chief object of their incursions is plunder, especially horses, which they use not only for bearing burdens, but for food, the flesh of which they esteem as one of their greatest dainties."
One thing is certain : If Don Felix failed to "reduce and conquer" these Indians, he gained a thorough knowl-
EL MORO-OR INSCRIPTION ROCK.
307
INTERESTING RUINS.
edge of their nature,- a dearly-bought knowledge, it may be, for who can tell the plight in which the warrior returned; or of his thinned and decimated ranks; or of the dead and wounded left behind?
It was late that night when we sought our blankets; but
Al jar
Puja
poraquielalizados on Ojebekaibunny 1/16 Jea Cibul1606
Cajado
1727
yaparelage
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MI
1619
FROM INSCRIPTION ROCK.
Elcep soon visited our weary eyes, amply repaying us for the vexations and disturbances of the night before. The sun was high in the heavens before we awoke from our heavy slumbers, and went forth "to pastures new."
A short distance from our starting-point we came upon
308
EVIDENCES OF FORMER CIVILIZATION.
the ruins of a very ancient pueblo, constructed in a manner which betokened a knowledge and skill in the art of build- ing which we had hardly expected to find. Some of the walls were still standing to the height of six or eight fect, the masonry being in a state of perfect preservation. The timbers were of cedar, and had the appearance of having been hacked with sharp stones, rather than cut with tools, a peculiarity belonging to all of the timber found in the ruins in this country, particularly in those of the Casas Grandes on the Gila. Fragments of handsomely painted pottery and arrow-heads of obsidian are said to have been found among these ruins.
The country here abounded in plants of the rarest and most beautiful varieties, many of which were peculiar to this portion alone.
Passing down the valley of El Moro, we entered that of the Rio Pescado, upon whose banks stands the ancient pueblo of Zuni. This whole valley has at some time been cultivated by irrigation, though for many years the Zunis have depended wholly upon the rains that fall in the spring and summer.
: In this vicinity we found the ruins of two pueblos, so ancient that this people knew nothing concerning their origin or inhabitants. Indeed, this whole extent of country bears upon its face every evidence of having been at no very remote period the abode of an immense population -
309
TIMELY CAUTION TO JIMMY.
a people who were not only versed in manufactures and agricultural pursuits, but civilized to a far greater degree than are the inhabitants of the valley at the present day.
As we expected soon to reach the city of Zuni, I took occasion to caution Jimmy against attempting to form any. matrimonial alliances with the fair daughters of Zuni, aszur- ing him, upon the word and honor of a traveller, that it was the custom of the people to put before strangers "the fairest of their fair," for the purpose of inducing them to remain in the pueblo and marry, only to be put to death as soon as the unfortunate victim who should have listened to the voice of the siren, had been left by his comrades in their midst.
In support of the truth of my statement, I boldly related to Jimmy the old Indian legend, that the Zunis are indebted to the Welsh for their light hair, blue eyes, and clear com- plexion. The legend runs after this way :-
"A company of Welsh miners having accompanied Prince Madoc in his voyage of discovery early in the twelfth cen- tury, by some means found their way into the kingdom of Cibola with their women. The people extended to them every kindness and courtesy, and finally induced them to take up their abode with them permanently. After a brief residence among them, the Zunis massacred every man of the party, and taking their women to wife, had finally suc- ceeded in producing the present blue-eyed race of Indians."
I also referred Jimmy to the sad fate of the negro Esteva,
310
LEGEND OF THE RIO PESCADO.
who accompanied good old Father Marco on his first visit to Cibola.
To be sure these examples were rather old, yet they pro- duced the desired effect, so far as to induce Jimmy to make a solemn vow that "he wouldn't spake to a faymale if we stayed in the haythinish place a month; nor would he permit one of the desateful crathers to spake to him, if he had to run frum her, bedad!" This vow, it is hardly neces- sary to state, he failed to keep.
In the waters of the Rio Pescado (Fish River), there is a singular fish found, somewhat resembling the wall-eyed pike of the Northwestern lakes, concerning which the In- dians relate the following story :-
"Two Indians were returning from a visit to the sacred well or spring. One of them had made a vow that he would never eat any meat which had been touched by water. In passing down the banks of the stream, they saw an animal sitting upon the branch of a tree which overhung it. Being hungry they killed it, and it fell from the tree into the stream. After securing it, however, both Indians ate of the flesh - he who had taken the vow allowing his appetite to overcome his conscientious scruples. Hunger soon gave way to thirst, and the prevaricator begged his companion to bring him water to cool his swollen, parched throat. Experiencing no relief, he jumped into the stream and drank his fill, after which he suddenly called out, 'I
311
RIDE THROUGH A DESOLATE VALLEY.
cannot sce; come and look at me!' His companion rushed to his assistance, when he saw his poor friend being rapidly changed into a fish. Thus had the Great Spirit of the water punished the perjurer, as he is said to, all who break an oath taken at the Sacred Spring."
I recounted this fable to Jimmy, telling him that we should visit this spring during the day, where he would be required to renew his vow. To my great amusement he flatly and persistently refused to have anything to do "wid the divilish wather."
A ride of a couple of hours through the valley of the Pescado, and we merged into that of the Rio de Zuni, a valley dreary and desolate enough to dampen the ardor of the most enthusiastic searcher for knowledge; and yet, perhaps, the most fertile of all the valleys lying west of the Rio Grande.
CHAPTER XXI.
Zuni
HIE valley of the Rio de Zuni, with its lofty cliffs of black metamorphic rock, - some of which, sepa- rated from the great mass, rise high in air like the huge chimneys of a vast manufacturing establish- ment,- presents a most sombre and gloomy ap- pearance. Notwithstanding its forbidding aspect, no valley is to be found between the waters of the Rio Grande and the Pacific coast more fertile, or with climate better adapted for purposes of agriculture, than is this in which is found the pueblo of Zuni.
Here for the first time we caught sight of the town, dis- tant about four miles, situated upon an eminence near the upper end of the valley, and which really presented, as
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1
313
THE ZUNIS ..
Jiminy expressed it, "a strange resimblince to the moighty castles ov ould Ireland."
We had not proceeded far in the direction of the town before we discovered some of the inhabitants driving towards the pueblo a number of buros (small jackasses), laden with wood, or with panniers filled with vegetables. This wood is obtained from the mountains; nor is it an uncom- mon thing to bring it twelve or fourteen miles tied upon the backs of these hardy little animals. The vegetables are raised in large quantities in the fine arable land with which the town is surrounded.
Among the natives we here met was one who could. speak a little broken Spanish; and from him we gleaned some information of himself and his companions, although the difficulty we experienced in interpreting his jargon so disgusted Jimmy, that, quite forgetful of the enthusiasm which so recently had filled his soul at the fancied resem- blance to his "dear ould Ireland," he exclaimed, in loud tones of contempt, "Why wouldn't a sinsible-lookin' mon like that, be spakin' so that a gintleman wud know what he wuz talkin' about, instid of a lingo that would desave the praste himsilf?" Dr. Parker's remark, that the lan -. guage seemed full as intelligible to him, as that of the Irish tongue, caused Jimmy to turn away, muttering any- thing but complimentary opinions regarding the doctor's taste.
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314
A SHARP TRADER.
Notwithstanding all this, we learned from our Zuni friend that the fine fields of waving corn, so gracefully nodding their tall, tasselled heads before the gentle breeze then sweeping down the valley, were cultivated entirely with- out irrigation; that large quantities of garden vegetables were also raised; that melons, pumpkins, beans, chilli, onions, and garlic thrived finely, while our own eyes dis- covered, not only valuable and extensive vineyards, but magnificent orchards of peach and apricot trees stretching far away in the distance. Our friend furthermore informed us that he was a gardener, and would be most happy to supply us with such vegetables as we might need,-a propo- sition that we at once accepted, although he charged the most exorbitant prices for everything that we desired.
We soon learned to leave all bargaining to Don Rafael, whose superior knowledge of the habits and customs of the people rendered him peculiarly fitted for the office of major- domo, in which position he was immediately installed, much to Jimmy's chagrin and mortification, who regarded the appointment as a palpable infringement upon the rights connected with his position as chief cook and purveyor-in- ordinary.
Driving to within a short distance of the town, we en- camped near a little stream of clear, cool water, that mean- dered quietly through the plain, until it finally lost itself in the waters of the Rio de Zuni, a mile or more below
315
A VISIT FROM THE CACIQUE.
us. Scarcely had we pitched our tent, before we received a visit from Don Juan Maria, the cacique or governor of the pueblo, who called to learn the object and purpose of our visit.
We found him to be a fine-looking old man, dressed
THE CACIQUE.
à la Zuni, with clear, intelligent-looking dark-blue eyes, and a magnificent head of iron-gray hair. The old man seemed a's happy and simple as a child; and when we informed him that we had no purpose in our journey except to sce Zuni and its people, his wonder seemed to be unbounded.
316
A NOVEL ABATTIS.
He at once invited us to visit the city at any and all times, and offered to show us any objects of interest that existed in its vicinity, an invitation that we at once accepted; for by so doing, we had an opportunity to familiarize ourselves with the character and habits of this interesting and most remarkable people.
The cacique informed us that "three suns" before, a party of Americans, with four wagons, had passed down the valley to the westward, and that women were among them. He cautioned us against permitting our stock to wander over the plain at will, as many deep pits had been dug, as a pro- tection against the Navajoes, who were in the habit of fre- quently raiding upon the Zuni stock.
Under his guidance we at once commenced an examina- tion of the pits, which were scattered around the plain in the vicinity of the four trails leading into the town, and so located that they testified very clearly to the engineering skill of the Zunis.
The pits were about ten feet deep, and large enough to contain a mule or horse. The bottom was filled with sharp- ened sticks set upright in the earth, and the whole artfully concealed by being nicely and most ingeniously covered with brush, grass, and dirt, in such a manner that their existence would have been entirely unsuspected by a casual observer. We could easily understand that they would prove a most dangerous and effective mode of destruction
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