USA > Arizona > The marvellous country : or, Three years in Arizona and New Mexico, the Apaches' home > Part 12
USA > New Mexico > The marvellous country : or, Three years in Arizona and New Mexico, the Apaches' home > Part 12
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Upon reaching the top of the wall where the Apaches had stood, they found tons of rocks piled up, ready to be pre- cipitated into the depths below; and close by the spot a wounded Apache, which one of the men hastily dispatched with his sabre. The rest of the band had disappeared as
217
A BURIAL BY NIGHT.
completely as if the earth had opened and swallowed them.
After a short rest we again took up the line of march for camp, the men carefully bearing with them the dead bodies of their two comrades. It was quite dark ere we reached camp. The captain immediately detailed four men to dig a grave upon a little eminence near by, and the bodies of Wilbur Carver and Charles Tucker were wrapped in their blankets and deposited within its narrow walls.
We stood by with uncovered heads, while Captain Ewell touchingly repeated a portion of the beautiful burial service of the Episcopal Church; and as the solemn words, "I am the resurrection and the life," fell upon my ears for the first time in many months, they awakened a host of long-for- gotten memories, which came trooping up and crowding one upon the other in such quick succession that I quite forgot the sad scene which I was there to witness, as well as the circumstances that had caused it; nor did I wake from my reverie until the last sad duties were finished, and the men had returned to camp. Then the doctor touched me upon the shoulder, and we silently turned from the sad scene, and wended our way to the station.
It was late that night before we retired, right glad of the prospect of a rest after the fatigue and excitement of the day, and well-satisfied of the fallacy of pursuing Apaches in their native fastnesses with regular cavalry.
28
218
A MIDNIGHT ATTACK.
We were soon wrapped in our blankets and enjoying a re- freshing sleep, only to be awakened by yells as of ten thousand devils. In an instant we realized that the Apaches were attempting a stampede, for their whoops were accompa- nied by the ringing of old cow-bells, the neighing of horses,
THE STAMPEDE.
braying of mules, and terrified lowing of cattle, intermingled with the discharge of fire-arms and the shouting of men, all combining to render the scene as near Pandemonium as 'tis possible to imagine. Of course we could do nothing but wait, and wait we did, until every sound had died away.
219
TO THE RESCUE.
In a short time Captain Ewell's voice was heard at the gate of the corral, and he informed us that the Apaches had stampeded his stock, and he wanted some animals from the corral to mount his men to start in pursuit. He obtained five, and started back to camp, while we once more retired, waiting for daylight before we ventured out of the gates that had afforded us such perfect protection.
1
CHAPTER XV.
EFORE it was light enough to see plainly, Mr. Twilly, the station-agent, called our attention to a peculiar roaring sound, which seemed to come from the mountains near by, at the same time informing us that it was raining up there very hard, and if the Apaches had succeeded in getting any start with the stock, the storm would delay Captain Ewell, so that it would be impossible for him to prevent their escape, as the water from the sides of the mountain would create such torrents that it would be useless to attempt to cross them.
As soon as it was light enough for us to see, we pro- ceeded to the camp to ascertain the situation there. We found that the Indians had succeeded in stampeding all of Captain Ewell's animals, except ten, together with the stock captured the day before, making in all nearly fifty head, and that Captain Ewell had gone in pursuit with fifteen men.
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THIEVING PROPENSITIES OF THE APACHES. 221
Of course there were many stories told as to the strength of the Apaches, some setting their number as high as fifty, and others declaring that there were not more than ten.
After listening to the many conflicting reports, I made up my mind that undoubtedly it was the same band that Cap- tain Ewell had been in pursuit of for the past two days, and that they had secreted themselves in the mountains, where they could observe the situation of his camp, and had taken advantage of the knowledge thus gained to repay the captain for his efforts to punish them.
These Apaches are certainly most adroit thieves, and manage to spirit off horses and cattle before the very eyes of their owners in the most unaccountable manner, and without detection. To do this, however, they are some- times obliged to crawl for a mile upon their bellies through the tall grass. After reaching the animal which they de- sire, they quietly unfasten his picket-pin and stealthily draw themselves up upon his side, clinging to his neck with their arms, thus effectually interposing his body, so as to act as a shield between them and his owner. While in this position they gradually and surely succeed in getting out of rifle range; then urging their prize into a gallop, they are soon out of sight, leaving the owner to wonder where his animal could have strayed to so suddenly.
When a general stampede is intended, they first capture the leader of the herd, then with shouts and noises so
222
THE PURSUIT FOILED.
terrify and confuse the other animals, that they all unhesitat- ingly follow this one, which bears upon his back the most daring and expert thief of the party.
It was evident that the rain which had fallen early in the morning had been very severe indeed; upon the tops and far down the sides of the mountains the heavy clouds still lowered, completely enshrouding their rocky sides, and effectually concealing the trees which grew near their base, nor did it require a very attentive listener to distinguish the sound of the rushing waters as they swept in an unresisting torrent down the rocky precipices and narrow gorges to the plains below.
It was nearly ten o'clock that night ere Captain Ewell and his party returned from their unsuccessful pursuit. They had been forced to wait several hours for the waters to abate at one of the "dry runs," which delay had enabled the Apaches to successfully elude their pursuers, although they were obliged to leave the cattle behind them, which three of the soldiers were driving into camp, as they could not keep up with the rest of the herd.
It was quite late when we returned to the station, having said good-bye to Captain Ewell, and echoing the wish which he so earnestly expressed, "That he might have just one brush with the devils before he returned to the fort."
The next morning as we started from the station, the cap- tain came to bid us farewell, and to ask us to urge Major
223
COCHISE AGAIN.
De Rythe to send him some mules from the Apache Pass, to enable him to return to Fort Buchanan.
This we did on our arrival, and the major at once sent him a dozen. We afterwards learned that he reached the fort safely; and ere many weeks had elapsed he had the opportunity of administering to the Apaches a severe whip- ping, at the Puerta del Curcuco, near the Buseni ranche, in the Santa Rita Mountains, where no less than sixteen of the thieving rascals were left dead upon the field.
Our journey from the Dragoon Springs to the Apache Pass was without incident worthy of note; and it was not until noon of the next day that we entered this rocky cañon which enabled us to pass through the Chiricahui Mountains.
After travelling for miles along a road so narrow that there was barely room for one wagon between the steep and over- hanging rocks, we finally reached the station. We found all well, and Cochise on hand to receive us. We learned upon inquiry, that Cochise and his five braves had only returned that morning, after an absence of three days; and from this circumstance, as well as from his peculiar looks when ques- tioned about the Indians who had stampeded the stock, I was led to the belief that he and his party were among the band who had visited the camp at the Dragoon Springs. Of course we could only conjecture this, as we had no proof other than the very unsatisfactory replies to our questions concerning their whereabouts during their absence. But
224
THE SAN CIMON VALLEY.
then, who ever received from an Apache a satisfactory reply to any question ?
We tarried over night at the Pass, intending the next day to reach the San Cimon, where we expected to encamp.
After leaving the mountains, we rode for eighteen miles over one of the best natural roads I ever saw, until we reached the mail-station, on the San Cimon. Here we made our camp, the agent giving our animals stalls 's the corral of the company.
The valley of the San Cimon is about twenty-five miles in width, and contains much fine grazing land, as well as some good agricultural districts. It is covered with a spe- cies of grass called grama, which for its nutritious qualities is rivalled only by the celebrated mesquit grass of Texas. In the region where it grows, the settler requires no grain for his mules or horses, as they are able to endure quite as much fatigue when feeding upon this grass as upon grain; and the stock-raiser who has fed his cattle upon grama dur- ing the entire winter, finds them in quite as good condition in the spring as does the Eastern farmer his stall-fed ani- mals.
While here we learned that only two days before a small party of Apaches had made an attack upon the herders b :- longing to the station, and had stolen two of the company's mules, much to the disgust of the station-keeper and his assistants, who were powerless to overtake them, having
225
NEWS FROM THE STATES.
driven them in the direction of Stein's Peak, which lay immediately on our route. Indian signals had been observed in its vicinity during the day, therefore we were reluctantly persuaded to remain for a time at the station, as well for our own safety as to give our animals a generous feed of grama, of which they were very fond.
Early in the morning, the overland coach from the East arrived, bringing papers only twenty days old; and as they contained the first news we had received for nearly two months, we were quite overjoyed to get them. While the coach tarried here, the passengers, four in number, partook of refreshments, which the station-agent had kindly provided, after which they set out for Tucson at a rattling pace.
The following morning was a beautiful one, and just as the day was breaking, I heard the keeper opening the gates of the corral before sending the animals out for their morn- ing meal. Further sleep being out of the question, I arose, and seating myself upon the green grass, watched the antics of the mules as they one by one came from the corral, and for the first time experienced a sense of their freedom.
The sun came up grandly, his rays gilding the snow-clad summit of Stein's Peak - an elevation nine thousand feet above the level of the sea - with crimson beauty, almost unearthly in its seeming scintillant light; and I watched it for hours, until its pure crystal covering no longer re- flected a sheen of silvery light, but stood white and solitary
29
226
STEIN'S PEAK.
in its bold relief against the clear blue sky, like the huge sentinel of the desert that it is, ever watchful and ever at its post.
As the sun rose higher in the heavens, the gray, precip- itous sides of this stately peak afforded a most pleasing contrast to the dark, rich green of its base, while the purple haze toned down its angular points, until, half concealed and half revealed, I could almost fancy that I was gazing . through "Timothy Titbottom's spectacles," and beheld my castles in Spain rising before me in all their beauty and grandeur.
The question which I had put to Dr. Parker, as to what our employment or amusement should be during the day, was speedily answered by seeing the herders frantically endeav- oring to collect their stock, urging it as fast as possible towards the corral. For some time we could not perceive the cause of this alarm. The station-keeper, however, soon dis- covered a party of five Apaches, riding as fast as their ponies could carry them, towards the two herders, who by this time were well on their way to the station, which they soon reached. The stock safely housed, we all retreated to the building, and awaited coming events ..
It soon became evident that the Apaches had no intention of making an attack, but that their design was simply to obtain possession of some of the stock, for they halted at a distance of nearly half a mile from the station, seemingly
227
FELLING AN INDIAN.
engaged in holding a council of war, sitting upon their ponies in the mean time.
Having in my hand one of Sharp's carbines, I brought it to bear, and elevating the sight, took deliberate aim at the five Indians, who were closely huddled together, and fired. I had not the slightest expectation of hitting one of them, but to my utter surprise I saw one of their number fall from his saddle, while the men around me uttered a shout at the success of my shot, which must have sounded to the ears of the red-skins like a yell of defiance.
A clap of Arizona thunder resounding through the clear, beautiful sky would not have more terribly astounded the Apaches than did the result of my chance shot. They had evidently thought themselves far out of rifle range, and as secure as though miles away. In an instant after their comrade bit the dust, they scattered in every direction; but as they witnessed no further attempt to reach them, they soon rallied, and two of their number rode hurriedly to the spot where lay the dead Indian. Stooping in their saddles they seized his body, and throwing it before them on their ponies, galloped madly away.
As for me, my unlooked-for success in bringing down this Apache gained me a most enviable reputation as a marksman along the line of the overland mail route, a repu- tation which I was exceedingly careful not to injure by at- tempting another shot.
228
APACHES ON THE WAR-PATH.
The Indians soon disappeared from view, nor were we troubled by them for the remainder of the day. The station-keeper expressed some fears lest they should return during the night for the purpose of revenge, therefore we kept a close watch, but experienced no cause for alarm, however.
As our next day's journey lay through the "Doubtful Pass,"- a portion of our route considered quite danger- ous,- we discussed the propriety of waiting another day, or proceeding in the morning. We came to no decision, however, until the overland mail-coach from the East arrived, and reported that they had been attacked by a party of Apaches in the "Doubtful Pass," and that the conductor, who was seated with the driver, had been badly wounded. The plan had evidently been to kill both conductor and driver, but owing to the darkness they had failed in their attempt.
As it was, Mashon, the conductor, received a severe arrow wound in his side, which we dressed as well as we were able with the few appliances at hand, and having our mules put to our wagon, we determined to set out at once, knowing that the Apaches would, for a day or two, or as long as they feared any pursuit, leave the vicinity of the pass, and seek other haunts. -
A drive of eight miles brought us to "La Puerta Grande," as it is called, or "The Great Door," which is
THE BEST SHOT I EVER MADE.
229
THE "DOUBTFUL PASS."
the entrance to the "Doubtful Pass." It is, in fact, a canon of the dividing ridge between the waters of the Atlantic and the Pacific; or in other words, the door of entrance to the Pacific slope.
Through this cañon our road for a couple of miles lay between two high walls of massive rock, barely wide enough to allow a wagon to pass. A solid wall of rock towered far above us on either side, and the road itself, which in the rainy season became a mere water-course, was washed and gullied by recent rains, until it was almost impassable for any wheeled vehicle. In addition to this, we were constantly ascending a very steep grade, which made our progress slow and laborious. Our patient mules, how- ever, acquitted themselves nobly, and for the next six hours we toiled up the steep ascent, every step bringing us nearer to safety and a resting-place.
The scenery at this point was grand, gloomy, and pe- culiar. Immense gravel-hills, barren as the rocks which surrounded them; huge granite boulders and masses of sand- stone flung out of the earth at randown, met our gaze; strange jagged mountain-peaks rose on all sides, while towering high above all was the snow-clad summit of Stein's Peak looking down upon us, cold and silent, keeping its solitary "watch and ward," as it lifted itself far above the desolate wastes around.
At last we see the low thatched roof of Stein's Peak
230
THE BACKBONE OF THE CONTINENT.
Station, scarcely distinguishable from the gray rocks which overhang it. This welcome sight brings a feeling of relief to our anxious hearts, and we once more breathe freely, for we feel well assured that our principal danger is past.
Standing upon the dividing ridge, the backbone of the Continent, or what is now known as the Peloncillo Moun- tains, a portion of the Sierra Madre range, we turn our eyes to the west, and look at the wonderful country over which we have been travelling since we left Tucson. The magnifi- cent panorama here spread out before' us almost com- pensated for the trials and perils which we had encountered on our journey ; even practical, matter-of-fact Jimmy seeemd lost in wonder and admiration, and enthusiastically ex- claimed,-"Bedad, but it's a foine sight!"
And so it was, in very truth. Stretching for sixty miles beneath us lay what seemed to be a vast plain, bounded in the far distance by a faint line of blue, and half shrouded by the rich purple haze, so peculiar to an Arizonia land- scape, softening its hard features, toning down its angular- ities, and lending an indescribable charm to the patches of forest, the gray alkali plains, and the white wavy sand- fields which lay stretched out like a gorgeous carpet at our very feet.
We had made the "Doubtful Pass" in safety. The only living thing that we had seen was an occasional mountain
231
MOUNTAIN SHEEP.
sheep, as, standing upon the point of some projecting rock far above us, he watched our movements with curious eyes, ready at the first sign of a hostile demonstration to seek safety by precipitating himself upon the jagged rocks below, or by leaping to some neighboring crag, where he might find a friendly retreat at a safe distance from his pursuers, leaving only the tip of his huge horns to guide the daring hunter to his place of concealment.
After admiring the beautiful view that met our gaze on every hand, we renewed our journey, and in a short time were knocking loudly at the gates of the overland mail- station for admittance. The keeper warmly welcomed us, and our tired, jaded mules soon found themselves feeding upon the rich grama, which grew so luxuriantly in the open space around the station.
The corral is built beside a huge granite boulder, a hollow portion of which forms a part of the station itself, and is nearly, if not quite, six thousand feet above the level of the sea, and with its high stone walls and formida- ble wooden gates it resembles a fortress far more strongly than it does a dwelling-house.
The hospitable occupants of the station set before us a most palatable dinner of frejolies and pancakes, and in the keen satisfaction derived therefrom we forgot the tedious and dangerous ride of twenty miles, which we had just made from the San Cimon. Dinner dispatched, we ac-
232
AN ELEVATED LAKE.
companied the station-keeper to a little pond or lake called Stein's Peak Lake, about three miles from the station, on the very top of the divide.
This little lake was scarcely a hundred and fifty feet in breadth, and was fed by several large springs, while from its sides ran two little streams, neither of them larger than my arm, but clear, cool, and sparkling. One of these streams fell over a steep precipice, now pushing its way through a rocky defile, or narrow gorge, and again flowing gently and quietly through a small patch of forest, gain- ing strength and power as it descended to the plain below, only to sink into the earth and reappear, after flowing through its subterranean channel for many miles; to again sink, and once more appear; until at last it lost itself in the bed of the Gila, to finally make its way into the blue waters of the mighty Pacific. Its companion stream toiled on and on, until it too found an outlet, and thousands of miles away it contributed its strength to swell the green waters of the great Atlantic. Flowing from the same com- mon source, thus were they finally separated by a vast continent.
It would be exceedingly difficult to find words in which to describe the peculiar characteristics of the scenery around this miniature lake of Stein's Peak. It lay immediately at the foot of a huge pile of cold, gray sandstone and granite, promiscuously mixed with large quantities of
233
THE CEREUS GRANDES.
volcanic rock, covered with a coating of bright and shining lava-form of every color, from light purple to deep red and sombre black. The edges of these rocks were sharply defined, and of the most fantastic shapes which the imagination could conceive. Scattered here and there, growing apparently with- out any soil, rose to the height of forty or fifty feet grooved columns of the Cereus grandes, or monumental cactus, as it is sometimes called. Interspersed with these were the brilliant green leaves of the prickly-pear, or the occasional gaudy blossom of the maguey, or the Spanish bayonet, with its bristling points, all of which, together with the clear blue sky above us, and the cold white summit of the Peak at our left, were most faithfully reflected in the waters of the little lake which lay so 30
CEREUS GRANDES.
234
"BARNEY STATION"
quietly in the midst of this scene of desolation, like a beautiful mirror, spread out at our feet by the Almighty's own hand, to convince us how feeble is the creative genius of man, when compared with the most simple effort of nature. That mirror and its framing I shall never forget.
It was not until after the sun had sunk behind the Peak, and the stars had appeared in the heavens, that we could make up our minds to turn away from the contemplation of this grand picture, and return to the station. Upon arriving there, we learned that we were far from being out of danger, for only the week before the Apaches had attacked "Barney Station," a few miles below us, and killed one of the herders, besides driving off several mules which belonged to the company.
We at length decided to incur what risk there might be, in an endeavor to reach, on the following evening, the second station from the Peak, known as the "Soldier's Farewell," a distance of thirty-two miles. In order to do this, a very early start was necessary. We therefore "turned in" in good season, nor were we disturbed save on the arrival of the coach from San Francisco, about one o'clock in the morning.
CHAPTER XVI.
HE next morning at daylight we were ready to start upon our journey, expecting to reach the station of the Overland Mail Company, called the Soldier's Farewell, before night overtook us.
As we rode out of the corral into the beautiful bright sunshine, the view before us was a lovely one indeed.
Away to the south lay the peaks of the great Sierra Madre range, stretching far into the interior of Chihuahua. To the southeast the graceful, conical peaks of the Florida Mountains were to be seen, while, nearer, isolated ranges and solitary Picatchos, rugged and bare, raised their heads like huge rocks emerging from the quiet blue of the ocean.
To the east, more than a hundred miles distant, the peaks of the Organos reared their huge basaltic columns, which were distinctly visible in the clear morning light.
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236
A MAGNIFICENT PROSPECT.
Immediately in front of us lay the Burro range, while high above their tops towered Cook's Peak, its jagged sides clothed with the enchantment that distance always lends. To the northeast the Mimbres range rose high in the air, while farther north the Pino Alto, with their dark- green pines, could be seen in bold relief against the snow- clad peaks of the Mogollon range, far to the north of the Gila, yet seemingly immediately behind them.
To the northwest the solitary peak of the San Francisco, with its compadres, the Dos Cabasas, were plainly visible; and far beyond them Mount Graham, with its bald old sum- mit strove to pierce the clouds, while at our very feet the great plateau of the West, with its sand-fields sparkling in the sunshine, stretched out as far as the eye could reach.
It was a most beautiful picture that Nature had this morning unrolled for our inspection; nor did we commence our descent until we had thoroughly, and I hope appreciat- ingly, enjoyed its beauties.
About ten o'clock we reached the level of the vast plateau, which extends for nearly three degrees westward from the Rio Grande, and is considered one of the best natural routes for a railroad ever seen, though a more barren and desolate range of country does not exist on the American continent.
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