USA > California > Humboldt County > History of Humboldt County, California : with illustrations descriptive of its scenery, farms, residences, public buildings, factories, hotels, business houses, schools, churches, etc., from original drawings, including biographical sketches > Part 18
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It was a matter not only of surprise but evident curiosity with them, to know how so small a number of men eould sue- cessfully resist a force so vastly superior. The secret was in our weapons. "The use of these, however, they could not under- stand. In order to accomplish our object, we gave them to understand that one of our guns would kill as many of them at a single shot, as could stand one behind the other. This however, did not seem to satisfy them-they seemed disposed to doubt the correctness of our representations. As an evi- denee of this, they insisted upon our giving them an opportu-
nity of witnessing the effects proliteel by shooting at a mark. This we declinel to do, not desiring to attempt a display of our skill with guns that perhaps would require fifteen minutes to discharge, but promised to gratify them the next morning.
Prudence and a reasonable regard for our safety, compelled us to keep a careful watch during the night; notwithstanding this, and the fact that some of the company felt little inclined to sleep, oue of these expert thieves, aided by the pitchy dark- ness of the night, crept stealthily to the spot where we were encamped, and took from beneath the blankets a Colt's revolver, without detection-to the surprise of all and particularly the loser, who, by the way, was one of those who were so little dis- posed to sleep.
At the first glimpse of dawu we were prepared for the start, but not, however, iu time to avoid our engagement made the evening before; for, as if anticipating our intention, they, to- gether with a host of their women and children, as early mnade their appearance,
We proceeded without delay to satisfy their enriosity and fulfill our promise. Handing a piece of paper, atout two and a half inches in diameter, to one of the Indians, directing him to place the same upon a tree about sixty paces distant, they in the incantime having arranged themselves on either side the shot was made. Not expecting any report, they were completely terror-stricken, particularly the women and chil- dren, who set up a terrible yelling, at the same time scattering in every direction, After looking about them and discovering that none of their number had been injured, they at length re- turned, and heing curious to see what effeet the gun produced, approached the tree and examined the paper, which the ball had perforated, and the tree where the same had entered and disappeared. They now scemed disposed to treat us with greater respect than they had done.
Taking advantage of the impression created upon their minds by what they had just witnessed, we endeavored to fasten upon them the conviction that our small company were able to eope with all they could bring against us, and told them that the force of a ball thrown from one of our guns, and the amount of execution it would do, was as much greater, in proportion, than that of an arrow shot from one of their hows, as the report of one was louder than the other.
THE JOURNEY RESUMED.
It bad been our intention to follow the river down, although its course heing from this point northwest, was not in the di- rection we desired to take. Against this, however, the In- dians cautioued us, asserting that there were numerous trihes scattered along the river to its mouth, who would certainly op- pose our passing through their country, besides on being made to understand the object we had in view, they informed us that our hest route, both in point of distance and on account of the Indiaus, was to leave the river and strike westward.
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FIRST SETTLEMENTS BY GOLD HUNTERS.
This advice, we, upon the whole, thought the most prudent to follow, and accordingly commenced the ascent of the mount- ain that now lay in our path.
The night of the second day after leaving the river, having pitched our camp, we set about preparing a supper. I would not consume the time in detailing so minutely these unimpor- tant items, but a portion of the material of that night's meal, although a morsel delicate and palatahle in comparison with some of which we partook later in our journey, and it being the first time within my experience where necessity had re- duced me to a like extremity, it made an impression upon my inind which to-day is as fresh as if it occurred hut yester- day. Our stock of flour was exhausted; the almost continual rain, however, had so saturated our entire camp equipage-the flour among the rest-and there had formed on the inner sur- face of the sacks in which it had heen carried, a kind of paste which the dampness had soured and moulded.
This paste was carefully peeled off, softened with water, and cqually divided among the party-when each one, after the saine had been submitted to a process of hardening before the hire, devoured his portion with an avidity that would have aston- ished and shocked mortals with appetites more delicate than ours. Nothing now remained of the stock of provisions that consti- tuted our outfit-flour, pork, beans-all were gone. The night of the 13th of November, the eighth day, we were compelled to retire to our blankets supperless.
Our animale, however, had been without feed for the pre- vious two days, hut were now luxuriating in fine grass, which faet tended to render our situation the more supportahle, for preservation of our animals, next to food for ourselves, was of the highest importance, hecanse upon them we depended for the packing of our blankets and provisions, when fortunate enough to find any of the latter.
PROPOSITION TO RETURN OVERRULED.
During the succeeding day, a halt was several times called to coneider the proposition submitted by somc to return; but as often as it was made it was overruled, upon the belief that the coast could certainly be reached in much less time than it would require to return to the river. After picking our way the whole of this day through an almost inpenetrahle forest, we came to a small prairie. This we reached about sunset, woru down with fatigue, and feeling hut too acutely the painful sen- sations occasioned by a long abstinence from food. Here we determined to remain awhile, to hunt for something upon which to subsist.
On leaving the South Fork of the Trinity, we had hoped hy this time to have gained the sea-shore, but in this expectation we were doomed to disappointment. The dim outline of the distant mountains still marked the horizon, the same as when our first glance was cast in the direction of our route, upon reaching the summit of the first mountain.
In the morning all the party, save a guard for the camp, started out in search of food, and after a ehort hunt succeeded in killing several deer. A quantity of venison steak hroiled or cooked in the ashes, soon appeased the extreme hunger from which we were suffering.
Here we remained several days for the purpose of recovering our nearly exhausted strength. During our stay at this place, we cured a quantity of venison with which, upon resuming our journey, we packed the animale, and proceeded on foot our- selves, thinking that by so doing we could certainly take suffi- cient to last, if not until we should get through, at least until more could be obtained. But no; on we toiled, faithfully and constantly, until the last of the venison was consumed, and the first, and second, and third day of fasting came and passed.
SUFFERING FOR WANT OF FOOD.
During all this time our animals euffcred intensely from want of food. The only kind that could be obtained for them was leaves, and in places even these could not be procured only hy cutting down trees. Two of them, however, were too far reduced to go further, and we were compelled to leave them hehind.
Again we had the good fortune to reach a piece of mountain prairie where we found an abundance of game for ourselves, and plenty of grass for the animals. At this place we remaincd three days, collecting and preparing meat for use while travel- ing. We had now two animals less in numher, and conse- quently were obliged to increase the loads of those remaining in order to pack sufficient to keep soul and body together for a reasonable length of time, for as when we left one camping place, when or where another would be found was of couree uncertain, and to pack our provisions ourselves was a thing out of the question, in our present condition.
Having prepared as large a quantity of meat as our animals could carry, on we went. Disappointment seemed to be our constant companion. Without following us day after day in our zigzag course, and detailing the occurrences that trans- pired, suffice it to say ten days passed away without being favored with the sight of any living thing that could he made available or useful for food.
Again was our stock of provisions exhausted. For several days we subsisted upon a species of nut resembling the acorn, but far more bitter and unpalatable. The only way that they could be used was hy roasting them in the fire until crisp anrl dry. A dose of these was found to be from six to ten, and to be taken about every fifteen minutes-a larger dose or oftener was sure to operate as an emetic.
Our drink was for a greater part of the time, a tea made of yerba buena-an herb that resembles mint. It seemed that each scene of toil and suffering which we had been compelled to undergo after leaving these recruiting places-that were to us like oases to the traveler crossing the sandy desert-was but the
FIRST DISCOVERIES BY LAND AND SEA.
prelude to another of a worse and more trying character. Not one was witbout its quota of hardship, privation, and almost starvation.
ELK, DEER, AND GRIZZLIES.
At length we reached another opening in this world-wide for- est, and without first selecting a camping place, as was usual with us, we hastened to search for food. We ascended a rocky eminence that overlooked the country for a considerable dis- tance around. Upon gaining the sununit one of the most attractive and inviting scenes opened to our view. On one side were feeding little knots of rleer, on another and nearer to us were a large herd of elk, and still in another direction both were to be seen. After a few moments' consultation, we deter- mined to attack the elk, and accordingly separated iu order to approach them from opposite directions.
Scareely a half hour had elapsed, before I heard the report of a rifle, and two more in quick succession. From the diree- tion I supposed it to be Van Duzen, and from the rapid success- ion in which the shots were fired, I was fearful that some dan- ger had befallen him, and immediately hastened to his assist- ance. I shall not soon forget the scene that was here pre- sented to me.
There stood Van Duzen reloading his rifle; near by lay three grizzly bears, two dead and the third with his back broken. Two others stood near by, grinning and snarling in a inost unamiable manner, looking first upon their fallen companions and then upon us. As this was my first introduction to Bruin, and the meeting being so sudden and unexpected, I hesitated a moment whether to approach and beeomne better acquainted, or remain a spectator. There was a certain something in their appearance that involuntarily brought to mind the inany tales I had heard related of their ferocity, when disturbed, and partic- nlarly when wounded. I, however, coucluded to venture a shot at one of them, and with that intention advaneed towards them.
Van Duzen perceiving this, ealled on me to stop, fearing that we might get into trouble. Heedless of his eantion, I ap- proached slowly, intently watehiug their movements, until within fifteen steps of one of them when I stopped and fired. The shot was a fatal one, the shaggy monster fell, with a howl, dead upon the ground. At the same moment Wilson, whom the frequent firing had likewise attracted to the spot, sent a ball through the heart of the remaining bear with a similar result. This you will say was pretty good shooting, to kill five grizzly bears with as many shots out of one band. But it is nevertheless true. As for myself I can say without boasting -although it was my first experience in hunting this kind of gaine, and although I was eonseions of the faet, that should my shot fail to be a fatal one, the bear would in all probability be upou me before I could get ten steps from the place where I stood-that I felt indifferent to danger. Our situation had become so desperate, and the convietion fast settling upon our
minds that each day passed in the mountains lessened the prob- ability of reaebing any settlement in safety, that recklessness and indifference had become a second nature to ine.
Our attention had been so complet ly engrossed in the cneounter with the grizzlies, that the band of elk were forgotten, and we lost the opportunity of getting any of them. How- ever, before night we sneeeeded in bringing several deer into eamp. At this place we remained five days, feasting and fat- tening on bear meat, and preparing venison for future use.
Our progress up to this time had been very slow. The dis- tanec traveled per day did not exceed an average of seven miles. The appearance of the country now seemed to change, the mountain ridges were less high and abrupt than those over which we had passed, but much more densely covered with timber. Our belief now was that twelve miles further travel would bring us, if not to the coast, at least.to a more level country, when our advance would be more rapid and attended with less difficulty and suffering. We therefore resumed our journey with lighter hearts and more buoyant hopes. Our eal- enlation of the distance to the coast or valley, subsequently proved to be not far from correet.
DENSE REDWOOD FOREST ENTERED.
The redwood forests, however, through which we had to pass. were more dense and difficult to penetrate than any before, consequently our progress was in proportion retarded. Dr. Gregg frequently expressed a desire to measure tbe circumfer- enee of some of these giants of the forest, and occasionally called upon some one of us to assist him. Not being in the most amiable state of mind and feeling at this time, and having neither ambition to gratify nor desire to enlighten the eurious world, we not unfrequently answered his ealls with shameful ahuse. His obstinate perseverence, however, in one or two instanees, resulted in sueeess. One redwood tree was measured whose diameter was found to be twenty-two feet, and it was no unusual thing to find these trees reaebing the enormous height of 300 feet. This may exeite ineredulity abroad, but trees have sinee been found in this redwood forest, of muel greater dimensions.
Through this forest we could not travel to exceed two miles a day. The reason of this was the immense quantity of fallen timber that lay upon the ground in every eoneeivable shape and direction, and in very many instances one piled upon anotber so that the only alternative left us was literally to eut our way through. To go around tbem was often as impossible as to go over them. We were obliged, therefore, constantly to keep two men ahead with axes, wlio, as occasion required, would ehop into and slab off sufficient to construet a sort of platform by means of which the animals were driven upon the log and foreed to jump off on the opposite side. There was not the least sign indicative of the presence of any of the animal creation ; indeed it was almost as impenetrable for them as for
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FIRST SETTLEMENTS BY GOLD) HUNTERS.
us, and doubtless was never resorted to save for purposes of shelter.
WELCOME ROAR OF THE OCEAN.
On the evening of the thinl day from our bear camp. as we called it, our ears were grected with the welcome sound of the surf rolling and beating upon the sca-shore .. There was no doubt or mistake about it this time. The lofty tree tops caught the sound, which the deep stillness of a night in the forest ren- dlered the more plainly audible, and echoed it back to our atten- tive ears.
The following morning, Messrs. Wilson and Van Duzen pro- posed to go to the coast in advance of the company, and at the same time to mark out the best route for the animals; to which proposition all agreed, and accordingly they left camp. In thic evening of the same day they returned, bringing the glad tidings that they had reached the sea-shore, and that it was not more than six miles distant.
At an early hour in the morning we resumed our jour- ney with renewed spirits and courage. For three long, weary days did we toil in these redwoods. Exhaustion and almost starvation, had reduced the animals to the last extremity. Three had just died, and the remainder were so much weak- ened and reduced, that it constituted no small part of our lahor and annoyance in assisting them to get up when they had fallen, which happened every time they were unfortunate enough to stumble against the smallest obstacle that lay in their path, and not one single effort would they make to recover their feet, until that assistance came. At length we issued from this dismal forest prison, in which we had so long been shut up, into the open country, and at the same instant in full view of that vast world of water-the Pacific Ocean.
PACIFIC OCEAN REACHED AT LAST.
· Never shall I forget the thrill of joy and delight that ani- mated me as I stood upon the sandy barrier that bounds and restrains those mighty waters.
It seemed like meeting some dear old friend, wbose memory, with joy, I had treasured during long years of separation, and as the well-spent surf glided upon the beach, bathing my very feet, a thousand recollections, like magie, flooded my mind. I felt as though there was yet some hope of deliverance from these sufferings.
Our appetites, having again been sharpened by more than two days' fasting, soon awakened us from our pleasing reveries, and reminded us of the necessity of immediately going in search for food.
Not long after we had separated for that purpose, Van Duzen shot a bald eagle, and Southard a raven, which was devouring a dead fish thrown upon the beach by the surf. These they brought into camp, and all, eagle, raven, and half-devoured fish, were stewed together for our supper, after partaking ot which we retired to our blankets and enjoyed a good night's rest.
Our prospects for a meal the next day were anything but flattering. Dr. Gregg therefore requested me to return to my mule which had fallen down the day before and been left to die, and take out his heart and liver and bring them to camp. I accordingly went, but judge of my surprise, when approach- ing the spot where I had left him, to find him quietly feeding. I determined for once not to obey my orders, and instead there- of, drove him into camp.
LITTLE RIVER DISCOVERED.
The point at which we struck the coast was at the mouth of a small stream now known by the name of Little River. From this point we pushed on northward, following the coast about eleven miles, when a small lake (Big Lagoon) arrested our progress. Finding it impossible to proceed further without again encountering the redwood forest, which we were not in the least inclined to do, it was determined that we should retrace our steps and proceed south, following the coast, to San Francisco, if such a course were possible. Traveling south about eight miles, we made a halt at a point or headland, which we had passed on our way up from where we first struck the coast. This we called " Gregg's Point," and is now known as Trinidad Head.
During our journey over the mountains, the old Doctor took several observations in order to prevent, as much as possible, a departure from the general course given us by the Indians. As we advanced, and our toil and sufferings accumulated, we gradually cultivated a distaste for such matters, and at an early day re- garded his scientific experiments with indifference, while later in our journey they were looked upon with contempt. It was not unusual, therefore, for us to condemn him in most measured terms, for wasting his time and energies about that which would neither benefit him nor us in the least, or be of any service to others.
From an observation taken on the plateau, where the town of Trinidad is now situated, this point was found to be in lati- tude 40° 6' north. This the old gentleman took the trouble to engrave upon the trunk of a tree standing near by, for the benefit, as he said, of those who might hereafter visit the spot, if perebance such au occurrence should ever happen .* Here we remained two days, living on mussels and driel salmon, which we obtained from the Indians, of whom we found many.
EVERY MAN FOR HIMSELF.
Again we resumed our journey. In crossing a deep gulch, a short distance from the Point, the Doctor bad the misfortune to have two of his animals mire down. He called lustily for assistance, but no one of the company would aid him to rescue them. We had been annoyed so much, and detained so long, in lifting fallen mules-some remembered the treatment they received when in a similar predicament-that one and all declared they would no longer lend assistance to man or beast,
"Discovered by the crew of the Cameo, and mentioned in that narrative.
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F
RESIDENCE OF GEORGE W.CHARLES, HUMBOLDT CO. CAL.
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FIRST DISCOVERIES BY LAND AND SEA.
and that from this forward each would constitute a company by himself, under obligations to no one, and free to act as best suiteil his notions.
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In obalience to this resolve, I immediately set about making arrangements in regard to myself.
Having for some time noticed the rapid stri les the company were making towards disruption, and anticipating a result similar to that which had just transpired, I visited the chief of a tribe of Indians who lived close at hand, and explained to him, as best I could, what I wanted and intended to do, pro- vided we could agree. I gave him to understand that I ,lesired to remain with him awhile, and that if he would protect me and take care of my mule, and give me a place in his wigwam, I would furnish him with all the elk meat he wanted. To this he readily acquiesced, and in addition returned many assurances that nothing should harm cither me or mine.
When the company were again abont starting-for they all seemed bound in the same direction, whether in conformity to an agreed plan, or involuntarily, I did not know-they dis- covered that I was not prepared to accompany them, and de- manded to know the reason why I did not get ready. I then informed them of my determination, and the agreement I had made with the Indian chief. All were violently opposed to the arrangement, and urged as a reason why I should not per- sist in such a determination, that when altogether we were not sufficiently strong to pass through the Indian country in safety, should they see fit to oppose ns, and that to remain with them would be to abandon myself to certain destruction, while at the same time it would lessen the probability of any of them reaching the settlements in safety. I told them I had no horse that conkl travel, I was not able to walk, and that I would as soon be killed by Indians as again to in- eur the risk of starvation, or, perhaps, that which was worse, fall a victim to cannibalism.
Truesdell, who had two animals left, offered to sell me one of them for one hundred dollars, if I would continue with thetn. I finally accepted the offer and procceded with them.
MAD RIVER DISCOVERED AND NAMED.
Little River was soon recrossed, after which nothing occurred to interrupt our progress until we reached another stream, which was then a large river, being swollen by the heavy rains. Its banks run full, and its waters, near the mouth, ap- peared deep, and moved so slowly and gently that we conclu- ded. it must be a navigable stream. Our next difficulty was to cross this river. Here the harmony that had existed for so short a time was again disturbed.
The Doctor wished to ascertain the latitude of the month of the river, in order hereafter to know where it was. This was of course opposed by the rest of the company. Regardless of this opposition, he proceeded to take his observation. We were, however equally obstinate in adhering to the determina-
tion of proceedling without delay. Thus decided, our animals were speedily crowed over, and our blankets and ourselves placed in ranous-which we had procured from the Indians for this purpose-really to cross. As the canoes were about pushing off, the Doctor, as if convinced that we would carry unr determination into effect, and he be left behind, hastily caught up his instruments and ran for the canoe, to reach which, however, he was compelled to wade several steps in the water. His cup of wrath was now filled to the brim; but he remained silent until the opposite shore was gained, when he opened upon us a perfect battery of the most withering and violent abuse. Several times during the ebulition of the old man's passion, he indulged in such insulting language and comparisons, that some of the party, at best not any too amia- ble in their disposition, came very near inflicting upon him summary punishment by consigning him, instruments and all, to his beautiful river. Fortunately for the old gentleman, pacific councils prevailed, and we were soon ready and off again. This stream, in commemoration of the difficulty I have just related, we called Mad River.
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