USA > California > Humboldt County > History of Humboldt County, California : with illustrations descriptive of its scenery, farms, residences, public buildings, factories, hotels, business houses, schools, churches, etc., from original drawings, including biographical sketches > Part 21
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To divert the present large aud prospective trade of this part of the State into a more economical and expeditious
channel by the coast, as well as to open an easier route to travel for any who, for settlement or adventure, might seek tbis ultimate frontier of civilization, seemed to the Company a sufficient warrant for the undertaking, especially when supplemented by the possible dividends that might drop into the purse of individual members. Private enterprise, purely in the interest of geographical discovery, or any scientific research, was not on the business programme of those days- certainly not on tbe "Laura's."
TITLE AND OBJECTS OF THE ASSOCIATION.
The Association adopted the prefix of "Laura Virginia," the name of a staunch Baltimore-built, rakish-looking craft, of 120 tous, which was chartered for the cruise, with Lieut. Douglass Ottinger (of U. S. Revenue Cutter Frolic) as Com- inander. Having a miscellaneous cargo of lumber and general merchandise, and provisioned for a two months' voyage, for about fifty passengers, the jaunty vessel, on the 19th of March, 1850, left the foot of Long Wbarf for the " Heads," which were speedily passed, and soon only to be dimly outlined in the distance. The Laura was a splendid sailer, without a rival on the coast for speed; and her Captain, drilled to the thorough seamanship of the Revenue Marine, delighted in a charge that so admirably answered to his skill. When beyond Fort Ross his course was governed much by the appearance of the shore, not omitting, however, to lay close to such places as invited nearer inspection, or offered an approach cither for landing or shelter. The dense fogs, lying low under the prominent coast ridges, effectually cut off fromn view their terminal shore-line, and proved an aggravating datuper to observation. But now the skies became bright again, and the distant land looked happy. From below the higher mountain tops, the rounded hills threw out their shoulders to the sensuous sun-bcams, stretching in graceful declivities to the shore,
Their sloping sides of verdure, in many places, were literally covered with deer and elk, which were easily seen witbout a glass, roaming or resting in the freedomn of their native pastures.
CHARACTER OF THE COAST.
Point Gordon is now passed-next the scene is shifted-and, suddenly thrust out on the theatrical stage of waters, Mendo- cino stands before you, the boldest sentinel of the coast, to challenge the formality of a distant salute. So far as seen from the ship, the coast up to this latitude had shown neither break nor depression that indicated any considerable valley or affluent to the sea. But here the uniforinity ended. Clearly profiled against the eastern sky, and retreating far to the interior, the mountains sweep grandly round to the north. forming an amphitheater of varied beauty of landscape in the foreground, and advancing to the coast again some forty miles to the nortb, terminate at Trinity Heads, Truly the hosts of Israel were not more impatient under the guidance
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FIRST DISCOVERIES BY LAND AND SEA.
of their grand old pioneer of Hebrew civilization, to the new fields of promise, than were the "Laura " party to reach what might prove to lie their promised land. The time, however, was not yet. Breakers and rocky, sheeted with billows of fonin, told plainly enonghi, " Keep off." At the same time, the fog came sweeping down the coast, and soon the Captain was standing ont to sea, and the passengers, one by one, subsided to tlicir close-packed quarters, in surly resignation or disgust.
For several weary days every prospect was shut out, and there was enforced imprisonment on the drizzled deck, or the dungeon-like dive below. To most of the passengers this was strongly suggestive of the horrors of the slave ship, in whiel: piratical character the Laure was sailing, when, with all her ghastly cargo, she was captured by one of our ernisers off the African Coast, some years before, a fact that had but lately come to their knowledge. The blank sen was still more dismal as the spectacle of some formless, giant redwood, looming up in the mist, from whose broken, stubbed branches the senred sen- fowl would dart down with a shriek, and be seeu no more, might readily be transformed, by fancy, into some storm- shattered hulk from whose skeleton spars the despairing crew leaped down to a watery grave. But dyspeptic dreams and bad weather at last enmo to an end.
'The view was again unclouded. The ocean on every side was strewn with tho fragmentary drift and grass of fresh- water affluonts, whose turbid torrents were mixed with the sca to a distance of several lengues. These wero the first unmis- takable signs of any considerable stream whose entrance was near at hand, that the party had discovered. A fiehl of tumbling, tumultuous breakers stretched far ont from tho shore, and seemed to forbid approach near enough to dis- tingnish its low, uncertain outlines; and it was, on consul- tation, determined to extend the voyage further up the coast, and, returning, dispatch a party of explorers from Trinidad by laud.
THE "LAURA " GOES UP THE COAST.
The Laura accordingly proceeded north to the bay, or road- stead, on which Crescent City is now situated, where, with: a fearful grouud-swell rnuning, she swung to her straining cable for the first time since leaving San Francisco. Here it was learned from the Indians that a " big canoe " had, a few inys before, visited the place, and, in trying to make a landing, several persons were lost.
A stroll to the sonth along the beach resulted in finding the luxly of one of the unfortunate party, which proved to be that of Lieut. R. Bache, of the U. S. Coast Survey, then lately assigned to duty on the Pacific. A plain coffin was prepared, and the remains were interred after the ritual service of the Protestant Episcopal Church, Captain Ottinger officiating.
The Laure now weighed anchor and stood for Trinidad, where, in a few hours, she was quietly lying in the roadstead. Among the volunteers for prospecting the coast from this
point, as before agreed upon, E. H. Howard, who had the charge of this expedition, selected the following-named gentle- men, to wit: H. W. Havens, Samuel B. Tucker, H. Lamott, S. W. Shaw (artist), and Mr. Peebles, Duly provided for tho defensive against the assaults of either savages or hunger, the party took their march southerly along the beach, while the schooner was to keep in readiness near the shore until tho tenth day therefrom, when, unless signaled before, she was to return, and take the detachment on board.
GREAT NUMBERS OF INDIANS.
Three or four hours' travel brought them to a muddy, angry stream, 150 yards in width, whose southern bank was lined with canoes, drawn up on the land, and numerous Indian rancherias. In a moment the approaching party were dis- covered, and yell answering yell ring out from the dark forest, bringing down, as if by magic, groups of its excited dusky denizens. Squaws, with their pappooses, were seen seampering from their wigwams to the rear, while the bucks, panoplied with bows and well-filled qnivers, with frantic gesticulations gathered on the bank in lasty pow-wow, as if debating whether the "waugas" strange apparition boded to them "intents wicked or charitable." In a figurative fashion the olive branch was heldl out to them neross the dividing torrent, and tarlily tokens of peace responded from the other shore, froin which several canoes now struck out, dancing and whirling in the perficious eddies, and each manned by two stalwart fellows, whose guttural explosives of "ngh!" "ugh!'' kept time with the labored stroke of their paddles. After an exchange of quite a miscellaneous, if not intelligible stock of pantomine between the parties, the schedule price of ferriage was fixed, and the service only performed " on time," though not withont an attempt by the canoe party to divide their passengers, and take them across one at a time. To this arrangement the latter, for obvious reasons, inade vigorons protest on the spot, and the diggers, with seeming reluctance, carried them as directed. Being now safely over, and in the midst of throngs of natives, curiously, if not treacherously bent, the little band applied themselves to the solution of the problem of making one-half dozen equal a dozen dozen. Their arithmetic proved equal to the emergency. It was soon figured out to their satisfaction that six white men, with each a rifle aud revolver, with an unlimited supply of ammunition and brains, could face a thousand Indians. Yet they would have felt a little more confidence in their conclusion if they were once suro that the poor devils believed it also. Thanks to the superiority of race, the premises of the white man's logie at least might be taught on the objeet lesson theory.
Besides the fire-arms, as just intimated, we also carriedl a surveyor's compass. These must do duty for the occasion. The superstition of the red man, known always to be intense. must be reached through his seuses by somne striking device.
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FIRST SETTLEMEMTS BY GOLD HUNTERS.
that, to their intellects, would seem a proof of gifts super- natural. The lesson is begun. The compass is opened in presence of an cager circle of bucks. They watch the needlo trembling on its pivot and then settling to a perfect rest.
THE AWE-STRUCK SAVAGES.
The time had now come to carry out the role of " medicine inan" (as we shall call our manipulator), and one of the party comes forward and begins his part, by moving the point of a knife blade around the disk of the instrument. Tho natives watch the needle's point follow with obedient impulse. The knife is withdrawn, and they see the needle flutter back to rest as before. Then our medicine man consults his compass, as if to learn what message it may tell him of all their thoughts, their secret plans and feelings toward their new visitors. Such, at least, he would have them understand had heen whispered to him by the Wonder Spirit of the Wauga, through the little glancing arrow that had turned round and round toward every part of the crowd, and taken account of its numbers and what it was intent on doing. Their curiosity has grown by this time into something akin to awe. The fire- arms, having been exposed to wet, needed fresh loading. Another trial might now be mnade upon their emotional natures.
Awe must be intensified into fear. A man's figure is drawn upon a huge redwood puncheon, and the next object lesson is begun. Bullet after bullet at sixty yards, crashed throngh the effigy tearing it off in splinters, and along the ground be- yond.
Another shot at a passing flock of geese and a fluttering "honker," dropped with a thud upou the ground within a few feet of where they stand. To the mystery of knowledge has been added the mystery of power. For the present, intelli- gence has imposed on the credulity of superstition, and comes off' master.
THEY DISCOVER HUMBOLDT BAY.
Leaving a few presents among what appeared to be the "big Injuns," the company proceeded on their way, keep- ing to the beach which was smooth and comparatively free from any chance surprise which the sand-bills on the east might afford the natives. Some of the latter followed for sev- eral miles, stealing from hillock to hillock on a paralell tract and now and then one conkl be seen with his head just raised above some distant drift of sand watching every movement of the party. Late in the afternoon might have been seen a ver- itable stampede, not from an enemy, nor of an enemy. Two who happened to be detached from the party and were some 200 yards in the lead, with a whoop that would have done credit to a Comanche, sprung to a brisk trot and then to a down- right run, to the wouder of their companions in the rear. They had caught sight of the entrance to Humboldt Bay, as since called. Upon reaching it they threw themselves not on their
knees, as some great discoverers have devoutly done, but flat on their stomachs beside the noble stream that was set out by a broad, smooth, clearly defined channel to the open sea.
After a moment's breathing, the first impulse was to sample its quality. It was somewhat turbid it is true, but was it fresh or salt? They thought it too much of the latter for drinking, and yet was fresh enough for the mouth of a river emptying into tho sea, and a river they believed it to be.
Following the shore line inland this impression was strength- ened by the general appearance of the opposite shore and veem- ing uniformity of width of the channel which stretched away to the northward. It then for the first time occurred to them that they had been for the last hour traveling unconsciously within a fourth of a mile from the stream ignorant of its existence and only separated from it by narrow patches of tim- ber and low sand-hills. The upper and eastern bank was not visible on account of a heavy fog and to the south of the entrance for the same reason a few hundred yards limited the prospect in that direction. The party had now reached the ultimate point of their excursion and felt satisfied so far with its result. Camping over night near by where the present light-house stands and the site of an abandoned rancheria, on the morning of the next day, as little of the opposite land could be seen on account of the prevailing fog they took at once to the ocean beach and the same day arrived at Trinidad.
Fortunately on the next day the Laura was sighted close in, coming up the coast, and in a few hours their signal was answered, and the ship's boat was dispatched to take the party on board. The report of the expedition was hailed with every demonstration of joy and Captain Ottinger, without delay, put directly for the "entrance" of which such a favorable account had been given.
FIRST VESSEL TO ENTER EEL RIVER.
In the meantime another vessel, the J. M. Ryerson had fol- lowed the Laura Virginia from San Francisco and for a couple of days past had been in her company at this place. It was ascertained that her aim was to make a port at the mouth of what is now know as Eel River, five miles to the south of the Laura's objective point.
Captain Ottinger seemed to favor the impression of the Ryerson that he also was seeking the same entrance. Un- fortunately, in carrying out this strategy, a boat manned by a volunteer crew from the passengers was swamped in the surf in attempting to go over the bar at the mouth of the river, and one of them was lost. N. P. Dupern, Esq., a gen- tleman since well known at tho French Consulate in San Francisco, and in the business community of that city, was one of those rescued, having clung to the boat's bottom, with others, till another boat was sent to their relief. After a little game of fast and loose between the vessels near shore, the Laura playing the " make believe," but the Ryerson in dead
"BROOK FARM"OF MRS. G.FRANCIS, FERNOALE, HUMBOLDT CO. CAL.1882.
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.00
'BAY MILL & RESIDENCE OF DOLBEER & CARSON, EUREKA, CAL. CONSTRUCTED, 187B. CUTTING CAPACITY. PER.OAY. 60.000.
.. " YEAR 9,580,000.
..
SHINGLE M
2.800.000.
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FIRST DISCOVERIES BY LAND AND SEA.
earnest, to get into the river first, the latter saw her oppor- tunity, put her tows straight for the bar, which, after some lofty floundering in the breakers, she safely passed, and was HO011 Heen at anchor in smooth water.
FIRST VESSEL ENTERS HUMBOLDT BAY.
Having got rid of his competitor, Captain Ottinger now lays directly for the channel on the north, and wind and tide heing favorable, crosses the bar, which was smooth with three and one-half fathoms of water, and, without scarcely a varia- tion of course, passes in between two low headlands, and. keeping ta the south, anchors within cable length of what is now called Hunhobelt Point, April 9, 1850."
Many other parties visited this region at that time, and made unmeron, explorations and discoveries; among the most important were the following vessels and parties.
EXPLORATION OF EEL RIVER.
Late in March. 1850, Selim Franklin, C. E. Gordon, Captain McDonald and G. Chandler, with two sailors, left San Fran- cisco in a whale boat in search of Trinidad. Early in April they came to the mouth of Eel River, which they supposed to be the Trinity. The schooner Jacob M. Ryerson appeared a few hours later, and the two companies united in exploring the strenm a distance of forty miles, finding deep water. A town was laid out, and some of the men went overland to Trinidad to get goods that had been shipped to that point. Franklin returned from there' to Sar Francisco to procure supplies and to advertise the new town, which he did by assuring every one that the river led direct to the mines, though he had no evidence of the fact beyond his hope that it was true.
SECOND DISCOVERY OF KRI. RIVER.
A Few days prior to this, however, Eel River had again been discovered and named. Samnel Brannan had fitted ont the schooner General Morgan, commanded by his brother John, and on the 5th of April, 1850, anchored off the mouth of Eel River, the Laura Virginia also coming to anchor there. Two boats, each commanded by a Brannan, entered the river which they named Brannan River, followed by a boat from Ottinger's vessel, which was swamped in the surf and Julias S. Rowen drowned. The Laura Virginia then sailed north and found and entered Humboldt Bay, as before mentioned.
The Branmans explored the river some distance, and the next day crossed a neck of land at the foot of a high bluff, which they named Brannan Bluff (Table Bluff ), dragging tlicir boat after them, and entered Humboldt Bay. To this they gave the name of Mendocino Bay, after the cape not far distant, apparently forgetting to apply the name Brannan to it also. They rowed to the head of the bay and then walked along the coast to Trinidad, where R. A. Parker and his com- pany received them hospitably.
ATTEMPT TO START A CITY.
Parker had entered Trinidad with the schooner James R. Whiting, accompanied by Charles C. Southard, of the Gregg party, J. C. Campbell, living at Etna, Frank Lemmon, Thomas J. Roach, Robert Atherton, Myers, a surveyor, and William Hawks. This party had commenced to lay ont a city, and in- vited Brannan's company to unite with them. This was done; and all was harmonious until the question of a division of lots was raised, and then there was trouble :. Parker's party was mneh smaller than the other, and wanted half the lots, while Brannan insisted they should be divided in proportion to the number of men. The controversy ended in Brannan getting very angry, swearing considerably, and he was an artistic swearer, and taking his departure with his whole company, and thus the only capitalist in both parties was driven away. He went to Point St. George and then to San Francisco in dis- gust. Members of his company decided to start a town on Mendocino (Humboldt) Bay and cut a canal through to Bran- nan (Eel) River, which was to be their highway to the mines.
THE CITY OF WARNERSVILLE.
The following letter from Captain Warner, taken from the Alle dated at Trinidad Bay, April 10, 1850, gives an idea of the situation of the new town on Trinidad Bay.
"I arrived here to-dny in the brig Isabel; immediately went on shore and laid out part of a town. I surveyed about teu fifty-vara lots, taking R. A. Parker's south base line for my north lines and his west lines for my west lines, bordering on the Indian village to the cast, and running down to the water. I immediately built a hansc, and erected the American flag some sixty or seventy feet above the hill. This hill or knoll 1 intended for an observatory.
" We have called our location Warnersville. Below we have a fine valley, dotted with many fine trees and a fine soil. Already we have made many improvements, put up several houses and made a road to the hill. This place we call Isa- bel Valley, at which we have left some men to improve in our absence. Trinidad possesses a fine climate and soil adapted to enltivation. As yet we have not learned the correct distance to the mines, but believe it to be about forty miles.
HOUSES ERECTED AND OFFICERS ELECTED.
" Improvements are progressing with the utmost rapidity. Mr. R. A. Parker put up the first house, Mr. Van Wyck the the second, and myself the third. We had an election on the 13th, and chose an Alcalle, Second Alcalde, and Sheriff. We polled 140 votes. What do you think of that for a town three days old? This place has fine streams of good fresh water.
" A party of Canadians have just arrived, consisting of four- tern men and two females, with sixteen fine pack horses. They bring flattering news from Trinity River. This place abounds
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FIRST SETTLEMENTS BY GOLD HUNTERS.
with all kinds of game and fine woodlands. The bay is a good harbor with all winds except south and south-west; those blow directly into the harbor. The correct latitude of the bay is 41° 5' 56".
" We found a number of Indians but they are inclined to be peaceable. Bark Gulinda lost three passengers, brig Arabian five, and schooner General Morgan one. These men were lost in landing in the breakers below the port.
" Yours, CAPTAIN R. V. WARNER. " Of brig Isabel."
Captain Warner was mistaken about the men lost, for it was the Laura Virginia and not the General Morgan tbat lost a man off the mouth of Eel River. The five men lost by tbe Arabian were Lieutenant Bache, United States Navy, Lieu- tenant Browning, United States Navy, John H. Peoples, W. W. Cheshire, and John Purdy, their boat being capsized in the surf, four miles helow Point St George. Besides these disasters the Paragon, Eclipse and several other vessels ran aground on the bar at the entrance of Humboldt Bay, or else were stranded in the surf off Trinidad. This, with the supposed loss of the Cameo, inade quite a string of disasters, and gave rise to the following briny yarn, whose author is unknown, the Alta publishing it June 14, 1850. The Cameo did not meet the watery grave it was supposed to be resting in at tbe date the "machine" ground out the following doggerel.
THE LEGEND OF THE CAMEO; -OR- THE PHANTOM BRIG.
RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED TO SIR ROBERT RIDLEY.
"TWAs many years ago, In San Francisco Bay, A vessel ealled the Cameo With many others lay; For stories of our golden sands Had spread throughout the world, And vessels there from every land, Lay with their sails unfurled.
Full many a mountain steep was scaled, And many a rock was eleft; Some few found gold, but many failed, And were of life hereft; But death and danger still were spurned, The tide still onward rolled, And all ereation was upturned, In that mad search l'or gold.
Ere long the country was o'errun, And gold could not be had, And many people then hegan To talk ot " Trinidad ": And some affirmed that they had seen A man, who heard one say He knew a person who had heen In sight of that same hay, And that some forty miles from there, He dug ten thousand pounds Of gold, and any one might share Who'd go and ship it round.
The story spread, like any lie, A party sailed in haste, But soon returned-the reason why, They could not find the place. Sir Robert Ridley then did swear
That he was bound to go, And he would carry people there In the old Camco.
The victims rushed their fare to pay, For Robert did them tell, That he would surely " find the bay, Or run the brig to h-1" And which of these two things he did Will soon appear before ye, If ye will hut take pains to read 'The rest of this true story.
The day of sailing eame at last, And all were there on hand;
The sails were set and soon they passed The outmost point of land.
The grog was good, they all felt gay, And all things promised well;
Says Bob, " We'll either find the bay, Or run the brig to h-1."
One day they came in sight of land; A party went on shore; But none of all that lucky band E'er saw the Camco more; But many a sailor tells a tale Of the old Cameo's host, Doomed to the end of time to sail Along the northwest eoast.
Long days, and weeks, and months passed on The Cameo ne'er came baek; A schooner, ealled the Paragon, Was started on her track; For still the golden fever raged, And people were so mad As ships and pilots to engage. To go to Trinidad;
And all along that rocky shore, Where'er a boat eould land,
Some one would start a canvas store,' And a large city plan.
The Paragon had sailed some time, When one morn, just at light,
The wind being fair, the weather fine, A vessel hove in sight;
And with a glass they did discern, What much they wished to know,
Her name, for upon her stern
It was, the Cameo.
The men on board the Paragon Gazed on the hrig with fear, And as they slowly mnoved along, Each moment drawing near,
And saw the strange, unearthly look Of vessel and of erew,
Their limbs as with an ague shook, And pale their faces grew;
For in those forms, that looked so wan, These pale and death-like faces,
They recognized full many a man They'd seen in other places.
Sir Robert soon the schooner hailed, And wished to know her name, Where she was hound and when she sailed, And from what port she came; And when the answers all were given, He cried in neeents sad,
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