USA > California > Humboldt County > History of Humboldt County, California : with illustrations descriptive of its scenery, farms, residences, public buildings, factories, hotels, business houses, schools, churches, etc., from original drawings, including biographical sketches > Part 35
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In 1854, Arcata had twelve or fourteen stores carrying large stocks of goods, besides saddle and harnessmakers, jewelers, gunsmith, tin sbop, and several blacksmith and wagon shops all doiug an active and lucrative business.
The first officers of Arcata village were elected in April, 1856, under the order of the County Judge, incorporating the village. The following were elected trustees: W. C. Martin, A. H. Murdock, T. J. Titlon, and Byron Deming; Assessor, J. P. Whaley ; Treasurer, H. Stern; Marshal, William Wall, But in May the act of incorporation was declared void.
There were four towns on the bay in 1855, viz., Humboldt, Bucksport, Eureka, and Union. The first three boasted of one store each, while the latter had seven large wholesale estab- lishments, with harnessmakers, saddlers, jewelers, tinsinith, and blacksmith, with a brisk trade with the inines and plenty of money.
Mad River Canal was cut through in 1854, but no logs were taken through the canal until a raft was pushed through belong- ing to L. Larkin.
In 1856, Arcata was connected with the ship channel by a plank road and rail track two miles in length, passing over the interveniug marsh or flat. At the end of the rail track was built a fine wharf and warehouses.
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In 1856, Arcata liad nine wholesale and retail stores, besides hotels, drug stores, tin, barness and gun shops, church, etc. The town was laid off after Spanish style with a plaza, around which are the principal business bouses. Titlon & Serights erected a grist-mill in 1857.
There were two private schools in 1856, one of girls, kept by Miss Hart, and the other for "young lads and girls," kept by Miss Webb. Now there are large publie schools in flourishing condition.
SUNDAY LAW IN 1856 IN ARCATA.
" After the first day of June, 1856, we, tbe undersigned mer- ebants, pledge our word and honor to keep our stores elosed on
FARM RESIDENCE OF G.A.DUNGAN, ON THE ISLAND,3'2 MILES FROM FERNDALE, HUMBOLOT CO. CAL.
DAIRY RANCH OF JESSE WALKER 6 MILES FROM PETROLIA, NEAR THE STAGEROAD HUMBOLDT CC. CAL.
161
DESCRIPTION OF THE TOWNS AND VILLAGES.
Sundays and transact no kind of business whatsoever, on that day.
HI. FI.KISCHMAN,
ROSKILL & Co.,
S. LEWEY,
A. JACOBY,
Ross & MCLEAN,
MANHEIM & STERN,
BYRON DEMING,
I. J. NEWKIRK, II. W. MeNAY,
WILLIAM C. MARTIN,
H. I. DART, BOWLES & CODDINGTON.
Union, May, 1856.
Arcata is now an incorporated town situated at the head of Humboldt Bay, about seven iniles distant from Eureka in a straight line, and about twelve miles hy land. The town site was located in 1850, as related in the general history.
It is built upon a plateau sufficiently elevated to command n view of Eureka and all of the bay north of the entrance, and of the beautiful prairie lying to the west and north. There are two large saw-mills, one flouring mill, and two shingle-mills, and quite an extensive tannery, owned by Thomas Devlin.
There are three churches-Presbyterian, Methodlist and Catholic.
The mines on the Klamath as far up that river as the mouth of the Sulmon, portions of those on the last-pamed stream and the Trinity River, also New River, draw their supplies from Arcata. It also enjoys a large and flourishing trade with the country round about.
The fine agricultural and fruit lands that surround it are of wonderful fertility, possessing a soil that is literally inexhaust- ible. The vast redwood forests in the background, generations will not exhaust.
It has numerous pleasant residences and quiet homes, as will be seen by our illustrations. Its business houses are numerous and flourishing.
A. Brizard has a large substantial stone store. It is one of the largest mercantile houses in the county.
Robert Burns is an extensive hardware merchant of Arcata. He is the principal dealer in hardware, stoves and tinware, and his trade extends over a large extent of country.
The Burns Block, situated on the corner of the street, is an extensive building. The upper part is occupied by societies. His residenco is one of the most elegant houses of Arcata, lo- cated on olevated land, and on a corner lot, its situation is prominent, and commands an extensive view. All three of these are represented in our history.
The Marsh Houso of Arcata, is a quiet, neat and homelike place in which to stop permanently or transiently. It is a temperance house. While the table is set with all the good things of the season and market, yet they are prepared with a careful hand and strict reference to the laws of health. Besides this the proprietor, Dr. W. H. Marsh, has attached to the house a system of electro-magnetic, Turkish, Russian and steam bathıs, which, with his application of them, will do almost a miracle in restoring to a healthy condition those who by neglect, have allowed their systems to get out of order.
CITY OF EUREKA.
Eureka was settled in mining timesand receivel at that time a large, floating population. It 1854 it experienced à set back in lumbering and other lines of business, which inadle hanl times and ,liminished her population. Early in 1836, the county seat was moved to Eureka and the following spring busi- ness revived. Since that date its course has been stea lily onward until it is now a city of 5,000 people, estimated.
Eureka was incorporated April 18, 1856, and the first election of officers was as follows: Trustees, James T. Ryan, C. S. Ricks, A. S. Rollins, J. M. Eddy, and George Graham. C. S. Ricks was President of the Board, and J. M. Eldy, Secretary.
It contained in 1848, six stram saw-mills, one steam flour- inill, six stores, four hotels, several private boarding houses, five drinking saloons, two drug stores, two fruit stores, two shoe- maker shops, three blacksmith shops, two livery stables, one wagon and carriage manufactory, two butcher shops, oue saddle shop, one tailor shop, one paint shop, one tannery, one barber shop, abont a dozen carpenters, Daguerrean rooms, one sur- veyor and civil engiucer, four lawyers, two physicians, four Federal officers, two preachers, and the Humboldt Times office. Of societies there were, the Humboblt Library Association, one lodge of Masons, one of Odd Fellows, one division of Sons, and the Ancient and Honorable Order of E. Clampsis Vitus.
The first church was a rude structure, surrounded by logs, stumps and brush and had the title of "'The Church." It was used as the place of publie worship for all denominations, a hall for Sons of Temperance, singing school, school house, public speaking and various gatherings. To-day it has five churches and numerous schools.
It is situated on the eastern shore of Humboldt Bay about five and a half miles above the entrance from the ocean. It is the principal shipping point of the county. It is built upon an eligible site, on nearly level ground, gradually sloping to the northwest, affording fine drainage. Its water front is very good and has a continuons line of docks for a distance of eight blocks, wbere vessels of all kinds find ample room for loading and discharging cargo.
Eureka is the commercial depot for all the towns in the county, except Trinidad. At her warehouses are received the sup- plics for the mining camps on the Klamath, Salmon and Lower Trinity Rivers. In point of ship building Eureka is not ex- celled by any port on the coast of California. The U. S. Land Office is located here, and C. F. Roberts is Register.
The Humboldt County Bank has been established since 1873 and has a paid up capital of $200,000; J. W. Henderson, Presi- dent, and W. M. Huntoon, Cashier. It has an excellent repu- tation as an eminently safe and well-managed institution.
There are five church edlitices, Methodist, Congregational, Episcopal, United Brethren and Catholic. Nearly all of the benevoleut organizations that have an existence in the State, have societies in Eureka.
JOHN A. WHALEY,
162
DESCRIPTION OF TOWNS AND VILLAGES.
The public school buildings are large and substantial, one fifty by seventy feet in size, two stories, containing four rooms, and the others, three in number, one-story buildings, hard- finislied, and all supplied with patent desks.
The Young Ladies' Seminary is a large, handsome three-story building, well furnished throughout, supplied with all the inod- ern conveniences of a comfortable home, and the school-room is furnished with patent desks.
'The Catholic Institute is a han Isome two-story edifice. and is alike supplied with every convenience for the comfort of those in attendance. The sites of both these institutions are exceptionally beautiful, commanding fine views of the hay, the ocean and a great diversity of hill, valley, plain and mountain.
The main resource of the city is in manufacturing lumher, shingles, etc., therc heing seven steam saw-mills and several shingle-mnills within the city limits.
The town is regularly laid off; the streets and business houses aro lighted with gas.
The city is watered by artesian wells, the water heing pumped into tanks and distributed through the city in pipes. Tho works were constructed hy John Vance, Esq., in 1873.
Tho buildings are principally wood, although there are seve- ral hrick business blocks in the town.
The Times and Telephone are published daily and weekly, and tho Democratic Standard weekly.
There is a free library and reading-room. There are now nine hundred and forty-one hooks in the library. During the year 1881, 7,515 hooks were taken from the library.
VANCE'S HOTEL.
This hotel forms one of our illustrations and is an ornament to the city. It is conducted by John Vance, the owner. It fronts 110 feet on G Street and 120 feet on Second. It has an ele- vation of seventy feet to the cupola, from which a fine view of the surrounding country, hay and town can he had. The building has three stories-lower story is fifteen feet to the ceil- ing, second fourteen and the third eleven feet. There are ninety-six rooms and a parlor. The rooms are all supplied with gas and water, good beds, stationary marble wash-stands and call-bells. Part of the number of rooms are heated by hot-air pipes. The huildling terminates in a Mansard roof, with cottage windows in the upper story. The windows of the lower story are double sash, with panes of plate glass.
The tahle is supplied with the hest the market affords. There is a harber and hath rooms connected with the building, where persons may be neatly barbered, or get hot, cold or steam haths, at usual rates.
There is also a saloon in the saine building, but not con- ducted by the hotel proprietor. It is a first-class hotel in every respect. A free 'bus runs to the steamer landing, which is only a few blocks distant. The W. U. Telegraph Office is in the office room of the hotel.
CHAMBER OF COMMERCE.
A meeting of business men was held in February, 1882, for the purpose of forming an association to he known as the " Chamber of Commerce of the City of Eureka," for the pur- pose of rendering such aid and encouragement as in their judgment may he just and proper toward the development of the natural resources of Humboldt County and to encourage all legitimate commercial undertakings.
John Vance, Esq. presided at the meeting, and suitable rules and regulations were adopted. The following gentlemen werc thien nominated and unanimously elected Directors for the present year: John Vance, William Carson, W. J. Sweasey, P. H. Ryan, Fred. W. Bell, Jonathan Clark, J. E. Jansen, W. L. Mercer, and W. H. Pratt. The Chamber then adjourned and a meeting of the Board of Directors was called to order, and organized by electing John Vance President, J. E. Jansen Vice-President, Fred. W. Bell Secretary, and W. H. Pratt Treasurer. A committee consisting of the President, Secretary and Treasurer was appointed with instructions to prepare a memorial to Congress, urging the necessity of Government aid for our harhor as also the pressing need of declaring Eureka a Port of Entry.
The city contains many pretty residences and homes which we have illustrated, as well as substantial business bloeks which space will not permit mentioning.
HOW TO REACH EUREKA.
Eureka is accessible to the outside world, in addition to the overland stage route, of which we have given a description, by two steamship lines. Goodall, Perkins & Co., are agents of the Pacific Coast Steamship Company, and are represented hy the steamship Los Angeles.
The steamer Humboldt is owned hy a home company, and is a new, commodious, and elegantly fitted steamship, George Paton commander, who is one of the inost careful captains on the coast. The officers and assistants are very gentlemanly and courteous to passengers. Captain Paton is always willing to answer as regards the coast, and give general information.
W. J. Sweasey, a prominent citizen of Eureka, is part owner and manager of the vessel. She was huilt at Eureka, in October, 1875. The vessel is all wood, hut is considered the safest steamer on the route.
Eureka has mail communication southward along the coast over a stage road; northward, along the coast to Oregon; northeasterly, up the Klamath River to Siskiyou and Oregon, and eastward to the Upper Sacramento Valley.
The census of 1880 showed a population of 15,511 in the county. The several towns have a population as follows: Eu- reka, the chief port on Humholdt Bay, 2,639; Arcata, at the head of the Bay, 702; Trinidad, 104; Ferndale, 178; Rohner- ville 500; Springville, 163; Garherville, 50; Hydesville, 143; Petrolia, 78; Blockshurg, 121.
163
REMINISCENCES OF FORT HUMBOLDT.
SKETCHES OF FORT HUMBOLDT
BY A FORMER RESIDENT OF THE FORT.
IN giving a history of the early days of Humboldt County, the establishinent of Fort Humboldt and its occupation by two companies of the Fourth U. S. Infantry, should not be forgot- ten. Indian disturbances had been frequent, the enrly settlers became alarıned, and urgent requests were mule for troops to the officer commanding the Pacific Department. The Fourth Regiment U. S. Infantry had been sent to California in July, 1852. The regimeut reached Benicia Barracks in August of that year, its ranks depleted hy at least 100 dying of cholera.
'I'wo companies, B and F, were selected to go to Humboldt Bay to establish a post for the protection of the then sparsely settled region. The troops sailed from Benicia the latter part of January, 1853, in the little steamer Golinh, commanded by her owner, Captain Wright. Brev. Lieut. Col. R. C. Buchaunn commanded the troops. The olhicers under him were Lieu- tenants Scott, Underwood, Bonnicastle, Crook, and Dr. De- yerle. Lieut. L. C. Hunt joined the command some weeks later. ,
Lieutenant Underwood was accompanied by his wife, and a few camp women followed their husbands to this ahost un- kuown region. Some anxiety and nervousness were felt by the weaker sex at least, in regard to " crossing the bar," and enter- ing Humboldt Bay. Wrecks had been frequent, the channel was a shifting ono, and not well understood at that time. It did not allay the fears of the timid, to see the ghostly remains of vessels wrecked at the entrance of the bay, their spms still visible, as a warning to mariners that they too might share tlicir fate. But the little Goliah steamed right in without sig- naling for a pilot, giving her passengers a slight shaking up, as she " crossed the bar."
All eyes eagerly turned to the shores of the new home, to sce what kind of a country this was. The impression was decidedly a pleasant one, the beautiful trees, and shrubs, and verdure, in contrast to the barreu hills about Benicia.
Colonel Buchanan was authorized to select the most desira- ble location for a fort, and to proceed at once to put up build- ings suitable for his command. At this time Eureka was little more than a swamp. The writer of this article, remembers well the hospitable reception given the troops upon their arri- val there. The families of the late Hon. James Ryan and F. S. Duff were then living in primitive style, in quarters similar to those of "Mr. Peggotty," in "David Copperfield." The ladies of these families welcomed the new-comers and extended to them the hospitalities of their honic.
Bucksport at that time, was a rival of Eureka, and at this point Colonel Buchauan decided to locate his post. The high bluff, abont a quarter of a mile back from the bay, seumed as though intended for a fortificatiou. The forests on two sides of this bluff, furnished an abundance of timber, the California
redwood being most desirable. Tents were pitebed upon the smooth plane of the bluff, leaving the center for a parade ground. Building began at once, the men of the command furnishing the labor. The plan was to put up a frame, fill in with hewn log4, then wenther-board and plaster inside. The first house was built in this manner but it was found to be expensive and unnecessary in this climate. A good weather- boarded house, plastered inside, was sufficient protection for the coldest weather of the bay.
FIRST BIRTH AT HUMBOLDT.
The first house completed was assigned by courtesy to Lien- tenant Underwood, whose wife and young son were made as comfortable as possible.
This son, now an honorable officer in the naval service, was the first child born to an ofbeer at Fort Humboldt. He was born in a tent pitched in the yard adjoining the little house in which lived Dr. J. Clarke, one of the early settlers at Bucksport, the Dr. sharing his honse as far as possible, with the family of Lieutenant Underwood.
The Huestis family theu lived at Bucksport, also the Mo- lony's, who had a hotel there. Captain and Mrs. Tickuor lived near Table Bluff, and Mr. Dupern was a citizen of the Bay. The Martins and Wymans were then living at Union- town, now called Arcata.
Game of all kinds was abundant, and beef could not be obtained, only at long intervals. A contract was made with the celebrated hunter, Seth Kinsman, to furnish elk meat so many times a month to the command. This was found to be a substitute for boef, the men not tiring of it as of venison.
KINSMAN, THIE OLD TRAPPER.
The old trapper, Kinsman, is still living, and is identified with the first settlement of Humboldt. His stories of adven- tures with Indiaus and grizzlies, would fill a volume with thrilling tales. The writer remembers well the old trapper and his violin. He used to enliven their parties by playing for dancing. His "Arkansas Traveler " was inimitable.
Lieutenant Crook now a full Brigadier General, and the finest officer for Indian service in the army, was tben a young man just from West Point. He was fond of hunting, and very desirous of trapping a bear. Tracks of bears were fre- quently seen in the woods adjoining the fort, and the young Lieutenant was at length rewarded by finding Mr. Bruin in the trap, so skillfully laid for his capture. The news created no small excitement at tbe fort. The bear was shot, and his carcass furnished food for those who enjoyed the coarse meat.
Elk and deer were seldom seen in the vicinity of the fort, but upon one occasion a herd of elk was seen upon the bluff south of the fort, and had a good sportsman been in readiness with his rifle, he could easily have brought them down. But they ouly took a survey of the landscape and bounded away with their horns in the air.
164
REMINISCENCES OF FORT HUMBOLDT.
The water was found to be excellent, to the ,lelight of all. The water at Benicia was rather distasteful, heing from cisterns, and collected for the year from rains that fell in the winter months. The climate of Humboldt Bay was similar to that of San Francisco, a little fire being agreeable nearly every day in the year.
BEAUTIFUL WILD FLOWERS.
The wild flowers were most beautiful about Bucksport. They began to bloom in February, and it was a delight to the new- comers to find them increasing in variety and beauty, as the months went by. Early in March was found in the woods back of the fort, a species of cyclamen, or arrow plant, now seen in East- ern conservatories. A sbrubor bush grew near the post with clus- ters of beautiful pink Howers, and bore a fruit not unlike the currant, which made a fine meat jelly. The same shrub may sometimes be seen in gardens or yards at the East, and is there called the Oregon Currant. Near the post was a pond, with marshy ground about it, where grew a sort of May-flower, a species of azalea with delicate salmon-colored and pink blossoms, quite fragrant tov. The California poppies were abun- dant, but the most beautiful specimens of these were brought from the Kel River neighborhood by the officers who occasion- ully visited that locality.
WILD BERRIES PLENTY.
The salmon berries were a great novelty, a very tempting looking fruit when seen upon its vine, but very perishable and only good when taken from its vine or bush with great care and eaten immediately. It resembled a large Antwerp rasp- berry in form and size, but of the most beautiful salmon color. A few were to be found of a deep, ruby color, and these inter- spersed among the salmon-colored ones, made a very tempting- looking dish. The salmon berries grew on vines that were ten or fifteen feet high. The Indians used to gather them by pull- ing down the bushes with a forkul stick, picking the fruit into baskets woven from rushes that they wore upon their heads. They would then bring them to the fort to sell, or exchange for flour or hard tack. If they found a purchaser in some one not squeamish in their ideas of neatness, the fruit was emptied, and the flour received in exchange, returned in the basket to their wigwams, in turn to serve again as bead covering.
The Indians were very friendly with the troops, visiting the garrison almost daily. The presence of the troops gave security to the settlers, and emigration was materially increased from this time.
Colonel Buchanan did not neglect the settlers in more remote regions, as detacbments were frequently sent out, the moral effect being very beneficial. Desertions were frequent soon after the arrival of the comumand upon tbe hay; the soldiers heing tempted by the mines not far distant, and for some time they eluded capture. But finally a stop was put to their deser- tions, hy several being taken, tried by Court Martial, and
severely punished. A garden was soon prepared and planted, which yielded a bountiful supply of vegetables of all kinds, so that the men were made very comfortable in a few months.
A DISTINGUISHED FORT.
Fort Humboldt hecamca very popular post, and it is to be regretted that the Government saw fit to abandon it. Many officers distinguished in the service, have at times, hecn stationed here. Of those who accompanied Colonel Buchanan to estab- lish the fort, only Lieutenants Bonnicastle and Crook are liv- ing; the former resigned from the services some years ago and is now living in Lonisville, Kentucky. Colonel Buchanan diedl two or three years since in Washington. Dr. Deyerle died at Benicia the same year that the post was established.
Lientenant Underwood, who afterward located and built Fort Gaston, California, died in Utica, New York, in 1863. Lieutenant Hunt is now full Colonel of one of the Infantry Regiments of the army.
General Grant was at one time stationed at Fort Humboldt. A number of officers who were at Fort Humboldt at the break- ing out of the war, joined the Southern Confederacy. Among those who icft were Major Rains, Dr. Guild, Lieutenants Hard- castle and Rundell. General Rains died recently in Georgia. Dr. Guild, who was Medical Director on General Lee's staff, died a few years since in California.
Captain Lovell, afterward General Lovell, was left in con- mand of the post in 1861. He remained loyal to his Govern. ment, and was transferred to the East, where he did honorable service, and after the war was over died in Louisville, Ken- tucky. His oldest son is an officer in the army at this time.
Soon after the fort was established, Eureka hegan to look up, andin a few, short years a thriving town had been huilt upon the marshy ground that had secmed so uninvitingin 1853. In later years the garrison depended very largely upon the sup- plies obtained at Eurcka.
PRIMITIVE SHOPPING.
No doubt many of the inhahitants remember the little cart drawn hy a mulc, driven by a soldier with the Garrison ladies, taking a straw ride to Eureka to buy a roast of heef, perchance and other supplies for their comfort. Many pleasant families were then living at Eureka. The Eddy family were there, and the army ladics enjoyed much hospitality from their hands. The writer has never visited Humboldt Bay since 1861, hut has heard of the prosperity of the country with great pleasure.
Certainly no more healthful locality can be found. The climate is equahle, never having the extreme heat of the Sac- ramento Valley, and no malarial troubles exist here as in the interior. Eureka is now the largest town in Northern Cali- fornia. When she shall enjoy rail facilities what may we not prediet for her growth and prosperity ? May ber oldest inhah- itant live to see and enjoy that time.
Chat. W. Song
HUMBOLDT
PIONEERS
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