USA > California > Humboldt County > History of Humboldt County, California : with illustrations descriptive of its scenery, farms, residences, public buildings, factories, hotels, business houses, schools, churches, etc., from original drawings, including biographical sketches > Part 46
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208
THE CLIMATE, RAIN-FALL, AND FOGS.
CLIMATE AS AFFECTED BY WIND CURRENTS AND FOGS.
Healthfulness, Fogs, Rain-fall, Temperature, Meteorological Table, etc.
THE elimate of Humboldt County differs considerably from most any other county in the State. It.presents many phases, and even within a few miles there can be found wonderful diversities, not to say extremes, of climate. Along the coast the atmosphere is always more or less laden with moisture, and the winds are almost constantly blowing, henee it is nee- essarily cold in that seetion at all seasons of the year.
Just insido the first range of mountains the air is shorn in a measure of its moisture, but is still damp enough to keep the temperaturo reduced greatly and to make it really the most pleasant place in the county to live, it heing that happy mean where the wind is shorn of its chilling fog, and the heat of the midsuimner's sun is tempered by passing through a stratum of moist air.
Farther in the interior the air is shorn of all its moisture and becomes arid and parches the vegetation as it passes over it. The summer's sun pours its unimpeded rays into those valleys in a mereiless manner, as if fully determined to prove to mankind that it can shine more fervidly to-day tban it did yesterday. And yet it is not so very disagreeable, and those accustomed to it really enjoy its pelting rays.
On the coast the usual fogs of the summer season set in about the first of May. This phenomenon is of almost daily oeeurrenee till the middle of August, and is an important factor in the growth of grass and crops along the sea-coast. Ahout the first of May the trade- winds set in from the north- west and prove a great agent in the modification of the eli- mate on the coast, serving to reduce the temperature wherever it penetrates among the valleys of the interior. These are the breezes which bear on their wings the hurdens of mist and fog which are so refreshing to the growing vegetation along the coast, making the season much longer in that section than farther haek, and adapting it for grazing and especially for dairying purposes.
These great fog-hanks form every day off the land, caused perhaps hy the meeting of cold and warm strata of air. In the afternoons this fog comes inland with the breeze which commences about noon daily. This moisture-laden air is not deleterious in any way to the health of the inhabitants along the coast, except, perhaps, those affected with lung or bronchial troubles. It is a fact, on the contrary, that the most healthful portion of the year is that in which the fogs prevail. These fog-hanks spread over the country in the afternoons and continue all night, but the early morning sun is apt to dispel them. Sometimes, however, there come several days in succes-
sion when the sun is shut out frou the view of man altogether along the' coast. It is then generally dreary and cold, and the wind whistles and sighs through the branches of the giant redwoods in a mournful, disconsolate sort of way, and the dash of the breakers against the rocky strand gets to be a very melancholy swash, monotonous and irksome, and the heart of man longs for a gleam of sunshine almost as the prisoner pines for liberty. But it is not always thus gloomy, for there are many days, during the season, of unexcelled beauty and loveliness-days when the sun shines in unalloyed brightness from out the blue empyrean of heaven's own vault, mantling the world in a sheen of silver.
The following table showing the range of the barometer and thermometer at Humboldt Bay was prepared for this work hy W. P. Daykin, Esq .:
1878
1879
1880
MONTHS.
Barometer
Thormom. eter
Barometer
Thermnotn. eter
Barometer
Thermom- eter.
January ..
29.30
49
31.00
47
31.30
49
February.
29.30
50
28.00
47
29.30
45
March . .
31.00
53
31.00
51
31.00
49
April .
30.00
54
30.00
55
31.20
48
May ..
31.20
58
31.00
56
31.30
53
June.
30.00
59
30.00
57
30.00
55
July
31.24
62
31.00
61
31.30
61
August .
31.00
61
30.30
61
31.00
61
Septemh'r
30.00
59
30.30
56
30.00
57
October ..
30.00
61
31.00
57
31.00
56
Novemher
31.00
54
30.00
50
30.00
50
December.
31.00
50
31.00
49
29.30
52
Average
56
54
53
The average rain-fall is much more in Humboldt than in San Francisco or Sacramento. It is a fact, there never has heen a year yet when the erops and grass were an entire failure for want of rain. The season of rain in this section may he said to commence in Octoher and end in May. It is rare that it rains more than a day or two at a time, and the intervals range from a few days to several weeks. This is truly the heautiful season.
According to the rain record of R. E. Foster, at Bueksport, the rain-fall for ten years has been as follows :---
1873.
. 23.45
1874.
.36.66
1875.
22.95
1876
43.03
1877.
.28.18
1878.
.50.94
1879
21.02
1880.
48.02
1881
38.61
1882.
38.19
The average rain-fall for the past ten years was 35.11 inches.
The average fall, in inches, for the seasons and the year at different localities is:
PLACES.
Spring
Summer
Autumn
Winter
Year
San Francisco.
6.64
.13
3.31
11.33
21.41
Sacramento.
7.01
.00
2.61
12.11
21.73
Humboldt Bay.
13.51
1.18
4.87
16.23
35.79
Fort Yuma
0.27
1.30
.86
.72
3.15
San Diego.
2.74
.55
1.24
5.60
,10.43
Snow is very rare on the coast and in the valleys, and never remains for many days except in the Klamath Valley, wbere there is sometimes a month's sleighing during the winter.
DAIRY, MILL & FARM OF HENRY WESTBROOK, SMITH RIVER VALLEY, DEL NORTE CO.CAL.
12: 1 -**
209
EARLY AND MODERN MODES OF BUSINESS.
BUSINESS IN EARLY DAYS.
First Express Lines, Post-Offices, Ferries, Bridges, and Modes of Travel.
ONE of the indispensable institutions of the carly days was the mounted express. Without it business could scarcely be carried on, so slow was communication by means of pack- trains. The express consisted chicfly of letters, papers, gold- «lust, and small packages, all goods of any bulk or weight being carried by the packers. There was no post-office until 1853, and all mail was brought and carried by the express companies. At first the price for each letter carried to Trinity was three dollars, and half that sum for a newspaper.
FIRST EXPRESS LINE.
The first express ever introduced into the mines of this county was when A. E. Raynes began to run between Trin- idad and Bestville in the spring of 1851. Before that the people had been completely isolated from the outside world. Occasionally a few letters were brought in by a pack-train and others carried out.
FIRST POST-OFFICES.
In June, 1853, the following offices were appointed: Union, H. H. Murdock; Eureka, H. W. Bean; Bucksport, J. Clark; Trinidad, L. B. Gilkey. But no provision was made for trans- porting the mails other than the small receipts of offices. Mails were very irregular, often were received only once in four weeks. Leland & McComb were the pioneer express men of Humboldt Bay. They ran an express from the bay to Crescent City, Gold Bluff, etc., and John N. Utter was Super- intendent.
In 1854, Adams & Co. established an Express and Banking House in Arcata, and fitted up a portion of the County Clerk's office for that purpose. It was under the superintendence of B. H. Wayman. It ran daily from Bucksport via Eureka to Union. John Vance, Esq., was agent at Eureka.
Messrs. Filley & Co. commenced in November, 1854, to run an omnibus from the steamboat -landing to Arcata.
Strawbridge & Co. established an express in 1854, having a route from the towns of the bay to Klamath, Trinity, and Salmon River mines.
Messrs. Chism & Co. brought into the county, in 1857, the first Concord Coach to run between Eureka and Eel River.
FIRST FERRIES AND BRIDGES.
In the spring of 1851, to accommodate the travel between Trinidad and the Salmon River mines, a ferry across the Kla-
math some five miles below the mouth of the Triuity was established on the regular road to Bestville. The proprietors were Gwin R. Tompkins and Charles MeDermit. This ferry was placed in charge of a man named Blackburn, and was usually known as Blackburn's Ferry. H. W. Lake, in 1861, constructed a wooden bridge across the Trinity, near the hotel in Hoopa Valley. It was fourteen feet wide and cousidered a substantial structure. John F. Martin put up a wire sus- pension bridge across the Klamath in 1861, three miles below Weitchpcck, at a cost of about $4,000. Length of spau in clear, 298 feet, width, eight feet, height above water, ninety- one feet. It is a fine and substantial structure.
PACKING TO THE MINES.
Packing to the Salmon and Trinity mines from Trinidad began in 1850, and among others engaged in it were E. P. Rowe, Abisha Swain, Charles McDeriuit, Charles D. Moore, F. F. Marx, and E. W. Conner.
Over 400 mules left Arcata in the week ending April 11, 1857, loaded for Klamath, Salmon, Trinity and Hoopa Valleys. Six hundred mules, heavily freighted, left Arcata during the week ending August 1, 1857, for Weaverville, Trinity, Kla- math and Salmon, at an average of 275 pounds to the animal. The amount of goods taken out by these 600 mules would be 165,000 pounds. This gives a good idea of the extent of the early packing trade of Humboldt, which is still conducted quite extensively from Arcata.
OVERLAND ROUTE.
During the season of 1873-4 the Legislature authorized Humboldt County to issue bonds for the construction of a road from a point about eight miles east of Eureka to Round Valley in Mendocino County. This road was known as the Kneeland's Prairie and Round Valley Road, and was completed under this act as far as Blocksburg, a distance of seventy-four miles. It was afterwards extended to a point 100 miles south- east from Eureka. The amount of bonds issned for the con- struction of the road was $125,000. The road is ten feet wirle, with turnouts fifteen feet wide, and fifty feet long within sight of each other. By the terms of the contract all curves were required to have a radius of thirty feet. The completion of this highway has been very serviceable to the county in the way of inducing and affording facilities for immigration. It is traversed daily (except Sunday) during the season, from April to December, by tbe stages of the Humboldt and Mendocino Stage Company, which bring the United States Mail through from San Francisco, the schedule time being three days in sum- mer and four days in winter.
The Humboldt and Mendocino Stage Company bas laid out a large sum of money in fitting up and equipping the route, and bave succeeded in making it popular. S. F. Bullard, of Hydesville, is Superintendent of the line. Bullard & Sweasey are the proprietors.
210
SECRET. AND BENEVOLENT ORGANIZATIONS.
SECRET AND BENEVOLENT AND LITERARY SOCIETIES,
Masons, Odd Fellows, Good Templars, Knights of Honor, Sons of Temperance, Work- men, etc.
Tus county has a good class of inhabitants, and in hahits of thrift and industry are far ahead of many other counties in the State. Society is, however, somewhat divided into groups, caused by the great mixture of nations and habits of life. In early times people were moro united and harmonious in their associations. The carly settlers well remember the long trip taken to visit a friend. Since the organization of the county, the population has slowly but steadily increased.
SOCIETY, PAST AND PRESENT.
In carly times society was disorganized, and disagreements ainong settlers were common, but of late years peace and quiet have been the rule.
In carly times the settlers were without the thousand attrac- tions and comforts of a home, cut off' from the pleasures of society and association of ladies, living in hotels, boarding- honses, cabins, back-rooms of stores, offices, and, in fact, in all kinds of unattractive places. It is no wonder that the early miners and business men turned eagerly to the amusements of the day for the needed relaxation. Saloons, with their clink- ing glasses, convivial songs and inviting innsic, were among the first adjuncts of a new town.
'The miner, when his day's work was done, the merchant, when released from the husy cares of trade, the happy delver who had "struck it rich " and came to town to spend his " pile," as well as the penniless " bummer " all sought the cheerful rooms where music and liquor were plenty, and where the games of chance formed an attraction, even to him who simply watched the fitful changes of fortune. Music was in demand, and he who had any instrument from which he could invoke harmonious strains was certain to find an opportunity to do so for an ample remuneration. Violins, guitars, and other light-stringed instruments that were easily transported, were the first to find their way into the mining camps. The place that was able to secure anything approaching to the mag- nificent proportions of an orchestra was certain of an over- flowing patronage.
Gambling saloons were the first to don fine raiment; even when in shake buildings with canvas walls, an attempt was made at ornamentation, to render them attractive to the eye, and inviting by contrast with the general crudeness of their surroundings. Church organizations were slow in forming. They came next after the secret societies. Among the first organized were those about Arcata and Eureka.
FREE AND ACCEPTED MASONS.
The Free and Accepted Masons erected a neat and eligible hall at Bucksport in 1854. The lower part was occupied as a school-roomu.
In 1856 a lodge was organized in Arcata. The Masonic Lodge at Arcata celebrated the 24th of June, 1856, hy a pro- cession in regalia from their hall to the church, where an address was delivered by A. J. Huestis, of Bucksport. There was a ball in the evening at Murdock's Hall, and a supper hy Capt. Ball, of the American.
The Masonic Lodges of tho county united in celebrating the 24th of June, 1857, at Eureka, the Arcata Lodge joining them on the steamer Glide. At the school house an appropri- ate address was delivered by E. H. Howard, Esq.
Eel River Lodge was instituted September 11, 1860, at Hydesville under dispensation of N. Green Curtis. The finan- cial condition of this lodge is good, and has expended large sums for charity. All the lodges are in a flourishing condition.
The following is a list of Masonic Societics of the county, with the time and place of meeting and officers for the first of the year 1882 :--
Myrtle Lodge of Perfection, No. 10-14th Degree-A. and A. Scottish Rite of Freemasonry. Stated meetings on the first Monday of each month at Masonic Hall, Enreka. S. M. Buck, T. P. G. M., J. S. Murray, Jr., Secretary. Regular Convocation of Humboldt, R. A. Chapter, No. 52, mects at the Masonic Hall on the second Monday of each month. John A. Watson, M. E. H. P, W. P. Hanna, Secretary. Humboldt Lodge, No. 79, F. and A. M., will hold their stated meetings at their hall, corner of Second and G Streets, Eureka, on the first Thursday evening of each month. J. D. H. Chamberlin, W. M., John S. Murray, Secretary. Eel River Lodge, No. 147, F. and A. M., will hold their stated meetings at their hall in Rohnerville, on the first Saturday evening of or next preceding the full moon. S. H. Crabtree, W. M., F. B. Simonds, Secre- tary. Ferndale Lodge, No. 193, F. and A. M., will hold their stated meetings on Saturday evening on or next succeeding the full of the moon in each month at 7:30 o'clock. K. Geer, W. M., James Howard, Secretary.
ODD FELLOWS' LODGES.
The Odd Fellows annually celebrate the organization of the first lodge of the order in the United States, Washington Lodge, of Baltimore, No. 1. This was chartered hy the Manchester Unity, February 2, 1820. Since that time over 1,000,000 per- sons have been initiated into the order in America. The intro- duction of Odd Fellowship into California in 1849, by the formation in Sacramento of an Odd Fellows Association for the relief of the destitute, is one of the brightest pages in the his- tory of the State. Since then the order has grown to giant proportions herc, with more than 20,000 members.
April 25, 1859, was held the first celchration of the Odd Fel-
211
SECRET AND BENEVOLENT ORGANIZATIONS.
lows of this county, consisting of the two lodges of Eureka and Arcata. At eight o'clock in the morning the procession forined in front of the Hall, in Eureka, and preceded by the Eureka Brass Band, they marched through the principal streets of the town, when they embarked on the steamer Glide for Arcata. Arriving in Union at cleven o'clock, they were joined by tbe Incinbers of the order there and all paraded through the streets, making a fine appearance. The procession then moved to Masonie Hall, where Anniversary Lodge, No. 85, I. O. O. F., was organized. At two o'clock they went to the Methodist Church, where an oratiou was delivered by Mr. Benediet.
Humboldt Lodge, No. 77, is located at Eureka, and was organized September 6, 1858, being the first of the order in the county. Its stated meetings are held at its hall every Monday night. For the first few years its growth was slow, and its members had many adverse circumstances to contend with. Eventually they were overcome, and subsequently its carcer has been one wherein its usefulness bas only been equaled by its prosperity. Its membership numbers 218 persons, and the value of its property, consisting of a fine hall, real estate, cash, etc., is about $15,000. The aggregate sum disbursed hy this society for relief and charity is $18,479,00. Mount Zion Encampment was organized on the 24th of May, 1867, at Ar- cata. It was removed in 1872 to Eureka.
The total membership at the present time is eighty-seven. The property of the lodge is its lodge-room, furniture, securi- ties and coin, in the total value of $3,110, and the disburse- ments of the lodge in tbe dispensing weekly benefits and other fraternal contributions since it was organized are $9,201. Its stated meetings are at Odd Fellows Hall, corner 2d and F Streets.
Fortuna Lodge, No. 221, was organized August 30, 1873, and holds its regular meetings in the hall of the I. O. O. F. With a record of 135 members, $9,000 in coin, bonds and mortgages; $19,562 disbursed in ebarities, the society may well be ealled benevolent and prosperous.
Eel River Lodge, No. 210, was instituted October 15, 1872, at Rohnerville, by authority of a dispensation granted by A. C. Bradford, then Grand Master, D. D. G. Master J. E. Wyman officiating. A goodly number of brothers from Humboldt and other visitors were present. The greatest number of members at any one time was eighty. Present membership, thirty-five. In 1876 about fifteen members living in the vicinity of Hydes- ville withdrew from this lodge for the purpose of forming a lodge in that town. This they did, and it is known as Hydes- ville Lodge, No. 250. The lodge owns a good hall, 28x60 feet in size, and a well located and laid out cemetery. It is free from debt and its property is valued at $2,632.00. It has distrib- uted in benefits, charities, etc., about $3,000.
The Odd Fellows in Eureka are making preparations to build a Hall, which will serve as a permanent meeting place for lod ges and the Encampment. Contract let to J. Simpson for $18,950.
The American Legion of Honor mects at their hall in Eureka The objects of this order are to unite fraternally all persons of sound bodily health and good moral character who are socially acceptable and between eighteen and sixty-five years of age. To give all moral and material aid in its power to its members and those dependent upon them. To educate its members socially, morally and intellectually. To establish a fuud for the relief of sick and distressed members. To establish a ben- efit fund from which, on the satisfactory evidence of the death of a ruember of the order who has complied with all its lawful requirements, a sum not exceeding $5,000 shall be paid to the family, orphans, or dependents, as the member may direct.
There was a lodge of the Legion of Honor instituted at Fern- dale in July, 1881.
Bay City Lodge of United Workmen was organized, June 2], 1879, and it bas now eighty-three members. Its objects and aims are the promotion of a fraternal feeling among its members, and to provide for the families of deceased members by paying $2,000 at the death of each to the widow or other relative. Several lodges are now organized in the county.
Humboldt Bay Mutual Relief Association is in a flour- ishing condition. The following prominent citizens are Direct- ors to serve for the ensuing year: William Carson, C. F. Roberts, John A. Watson, George Grabam, C. W. Long, J. H. G. Weaver, H. Dorman, Thomas Vance, H. Kingston, H. Con- nick, I. R. Brown, J. D. H. Chamberlin.
Lincoln Lodge K. of P. was organized aud dedicated under auspices flattering to tbe cardinal aims of the order: "Friend- ship, Charity and Benevolence." Its stated meetings are held at the Pythian Castle, on the southeast corner of 3d and E Streets, Eureka. There are fifty-seven memhers in this lodge. Its property consists of lodge-room, furniture, money and mortgages, equal to $3,725, and its financial condition is prosper- ous. It bas expended for beneficiary and charitable purposes $4,250.25. The Knights of Pythias of Eureka and Arcata united in a grand burrah time. Tbe occasion of tbe celehra- tion being the installation of the officers of North Star Lodge No. 39, of Arcata. After the conclusion of the proceedings the Knights partook of supper at Richert's Hotel, over 100 persons being at the table. It is said that this was one of the largest gatherings in the history of fraternal societies of the county.
Aurora Lodge K. of P. meets at Ferndale, and we believe there are other lodges in the county in flourisbing condition among them Lincoln Lodge, No. 34.
Humboldt Bay Council A. S. of H., was instituted at Eureka July 23, 1881.
Eureka Branch of Land League was organized Marcb 15, 1881. It has seventy members, and its meetings are held monthly at the hall of the Catholic Church.
212
SECRET AND BENEVOLENT ORGANIZATIONS.
The Grand Army of the Republic formed an organization in June, 1881, of the old soldiers ahout Ferndale. J. N. Adams, Conunander, G. L. Benedict, Adjutant.
A Band of Hope was organized in Eureka hy C. S. Haswell. in 1878. It was designed for children, and was very successful in point of numbers. It has recently heen resuscitated and its field of labor enlarged so as to include adults as well as chil- dren. It is called Garfield Lodge, and at present has 103 members.
No Surrender Loyal Orange Lodge, No. 143, grants sick, funeral and other benefits. It meets tirst and third Saturdays of each month. It was organized February 21, 1877, and has 120 members; and lodge furniture, coin and securities, valued at ahout 83,000.
There are numerous other secret and benevolent organiza- tions in the county, but from the list already given a stranger will learn that the inhabitants are of a social nature.
TEMPERANCE ORGANIZATIONS.
Probably the first temperance organization was an order started in Arcata in 1857, called the " Reformed Drunkards." Soon after the Sons of Temperance held numerous meetings, and llourished for a time. The first organization was at Eu- reka in January, 1858, called "Morning Star" Division. It met in Murdock's Hall. The Rev. P. H. Shafer officiated as Deputy W. P.
On the ruins of the Sous was built up the Good Templars. 'T'he last meeting of the order elected for the northern district the following officers for the year 1882: D. C. T. and D. D., W. F. Brown, Eureka ; D. V. T., Sister Campton, Rohnerville; D. S .; A. M. Gill, Rohnerville ; D. F. S .; G. W. Hopkins, Arcata; D. T., Sister Julia Stearns, Arcata ; D. M. ; A. J. Coyle, Hydes- ville; D. I. G .; F. Caharus, Trinidad ; D. O. G .; W. B. McClane, Arcata.
At the session of 1882 the Ferndale Lodge reported a membership of forty-two; the Port Kenyon Lodge, twenty- four; North Star Lodge, twenty-nine; Mountain Lodge, twenty-seven; Hydesville Lodge, forty-nine ; Humboldt Lodge, eighty-four; Rohnerville Lodge, forty.
The Good Templars in Humboldt County are banded to- gether for the purpose of comhatting the fell-destroyer-intox- icating liquors-together with all its concomitant haleful evils and influences. Lodges are flourishing in all parts of the county, but we were not able to obtain reports from the organ- izations.
AGRICULTURAL SOCIETY.
A preliminary meeting of citizens to organize a County Agricultural Society was held September 28, 1860, at Hydes- ville, of those "interested ju the progress of Agriculture, the Mechanical Arts and the general Development of the Material Resources of Humboldt County." This meeting adjourned to October 13th, and the following officers were elected : Dr. Jona-
than Clark, President, Samuel Strong, Vice-President, William Olinstead, Treasurer, and William J. Sweasey, Secretary.
June 1, 1861, the Society held their first annual meeting at Brett's Hail, Eureka. The first fair was held at Hydesville on October 8, 9, and 10, 1861, and turned out to be a success. The Society held its last fair at Rohnerville, October 4, 5, 6, and 7, 1881. It is now called the Ninth District Agricul- tural Association, and is composed of the Counties of Del Norte, Humboldt and Mendocino. The premiums were divi- ded into tive departments, viz: live-stock, mechanical products, agricultural products, fruits and miscellanous, the latter includ- ing household fabrics, fancy work, painting and drawing, etc. The highest prize, $25, is offered for the best display of agri- cultural implements. The following are the members of the Board for 1882: G. C. Barber and F. Z. Boynton, Ferndale; H. S. Case and Robert Porter, Hydesville ; T. D. Felt, Rohn- erville; Henry Rohner, Springville; E. C. Newton, Smith River, Del Norte County. Officers are, G. C. Barher, Fern- dale, President; S. H. Crabtree, Rohnerville, Secretary ; Mor- ris Levinger, Rohnerville, Treasurer.
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