History of Humboldt County, California : with illustrations descriptive of its scenery, farms, residences, public buildings, factories, hotels, business houses, schools, churches, etc., from original drawings, including biographical sketches, Part 9

Author: W.W. Elliott & Co
Publication date: 1881
Publisher: San Francisco : W.W. Elliott
Number of Pages: 344


USA > California > Humboldt County > History of Humboldt County, California : with illustrations descriptive of its scenery, farms, residences, public buildings, factories, hotels, business houses, schools, churches, etc., from original drawings, including biographical sketches > Part 9


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"The agricultural capabilities of California are but very imperfectly developed. The whole of it is remarkably adapted to the culture of the vine. Wine and brandy of excellent quality are made in considerable quantities. Olives, figs and almonds grow well. Apples, pears and peaches are abundant, and in the southern part, oranges. Cotton is beginning to be cultivated, and succeeds well. It is the finest country for wheat I have ever seen. Fifty for one is an average crop, with very imperfect cultivation. One hundred fold is not uncommon, and even 150 has been produced. Maize produces tolerably well but not equal to some parts of the United States. Hemp, flax and tobacco bave been cultivated on a small scale, and succeed well. The raising of cattle is the principal pursuit of the inhabitants, and tbe most profitable.


PIONEERS ESTIMATE ON CALIFORNIA.


The foreign commerce of Upper California employs from ten to fifteen sail of vessels, mostly large ships. Some wbat more than half of these are American, and belong exclusively to the port of Boston. The others are English, French, Russian, Mexican, Peruvian and Hawaiian. The French from their islands in tbe Pacific and the Russians from Kamtschatka, and their establishments on the northwest coast, resort here for provis- ions and live-stock. The exports consist of hides and tallow, cows, lard, wheat, soap, timber and furs. There are slaughtered annually about 100,000 head of cattle, worth $800,000. Tbe whole value of tbe exports annually amounts to about $1,000,- 000. The largest item of imports is American cotton goods. The duties on imports are enormously high, amounting on the most important articles to 150 per cent. on the original cost, and in many instances to 400 or 500. Thus, as in most Span- ish countries, a high bounty is paid to encourage smuggling. Whale ships visit St. Francisco annually in considerable num- bers for refreshments, and fail to profit by the facilities for illicit commerce.


CALIFORNIA WILL BE A STATE.


"California, although nominally belonging to Mexico, 1844, is about as independent of it as Texas, and must erelong share the same fate. Since my residence here, no less thau four Mex- ican Governors have been driven I'rom the country by force of


EUREKA MARKET.


HOUSE


Dasephe


EUREKA MARKET, COR.3"P & G STS. EUREKA, HUMBOLDT CO. CAL . JOSEPH RUSS, PROP.


TITETTTET


... THE EXCELSIOR MILL ON GUNTER'S ISLAND, HUMBOLDT BAY OPPOSITE EUR


A


the Rush.


FERN COTTAGE" RES. OF JOSEPH RUSS, OCEAN AVENUE 2% MILES WEST OF FERNDALE, HUMBOLDT CO. CAL. 1882.


RE" A, HUMBOLDT CO. CAL. JOSEPH RUSS & CO. PROPRIETORS, 1882 .;


HABITS AND LIFE OF THE ABORIGINES.


-


arnis. The last of these, Micheltorena, with abont 400 of hi- soldiers and 100 employés, were driven away about a year ago.


This occurred at the time that the rest of the nation was expel- ling his master, Santa Ana, although nothing of this was known here at the time. The new administration, therefore, with a good grace, highly approved of our conduct. In fact, the suc- cessive administrations in Mexico have already shown a dispo- sition to sanction and approve of whatever we may do here, from a conscious inability to retain even a nominal dominion over the country by any other means. Upper California has heen governed for the last year entirely by its own citizens- Lower California is in general an uninhabitedl and uniuhab- itable desert. The seanty population it contains lives near the extremity of the Cape, and has no connection and little inter- course with this part of the country.


INDIANS IN CALIFORNIA.


"I know not, since you have beeu so long engaged in more weighty concerns, if you take the same interest as formerly in Indian affairs, but since I have supposed your personal identity to remain, I shall vonture a few remarks on the Aborigines of California. In stature the California Indian ratber exceeds the averago of the tribes east of the mountains. He is heavier liinbed and stouter built. They are a hairy race, and some of them have beards that would do lionor to a Turk. The color similar to that of the Algonquin race, or prehaps rather lighter. Tho visage, short and broad, with wide mouth, thick lips, short, broad nose, aud extremely low forehead. In some individuals the hair grows quite dowu to the eyebrows, and they may he said to have no forchead at all. Some few have that peculiar conformation of the eye so remarkable in the Chinese and Tartar races, and entirely different from the com- mon American Indian or the Polynesian; and with this mpromising set of features, some have an animated and agree- able expression of countenance. The general expression of the wild Indian has nothing of the proud and lofty bearing, or the haughtiness and ferocity so often seen east of the mountains. It is more commonly indicative of timidity and stupidity.


" The men and children are absolutely and entirely naked, and the dress of the women is the least possible or conceivable remove from nudity. Their food varies with the season. In February and March they live on grass and herbage; clover and wild pea-vine are among the best kinds of their pasturage. 1 have often secn hundreds of them gazing together in a meadow, like so many cattle. [Descendants of Nebuchadnez- zar .- ED.]


" They are very poor hunters of the larger animals, but very skillful in making and managing nets for fish and food. They also collect in their season great quantities of the seeds of various grasses, which are particularly abundant. Acorns are another principal article of food, which are larger, more abundant, and of better quality than I have seen elsewhere.


The Californian is not more different from the tribes east of the mountains in his physical than iu his moral and intellectual qualities. They are easily domesticated, not averse to labor, have a natural aptitude to learn mechanical trades, and. I believe, universally a fondness for music, and a facility in acquiring it.


INDIANS OF THE MISSIONS AT LABOR.


"The Mission of St. Joseph, when in its prosperity, had 100 plough-men, and I have seen them all at work in one field each with his plongh. It had also fifty weavers, twenty tanners, thirty shoe-makers, forty masons, twenty carpenters, ten blacksmiths, and various other mechanics. They are not nearly so much addicted to intoxication as is common to other Indians. I was for some years of the opinion that they wero of an entirely different race from those east of the mountains, and they cer- tainly have but little similarity. The only thing that caused me to think differently is that they have the same Moccasin gaine that is so common on the Mississippi, and what is more remarkable, they accompany it by singing precisely the same tune! The diversity of language among them is very great. It is seldom an Indian can understand another who lives fifty miles distant; within the limits of California are at least 100 dialects, apparently entirely dissimilar. Few or no white per- sons have taken any pains to learn them, as there are indiv- iduals in all the tribes which have communication with the set- tlements who speak Spanish.


INDIANS EASILY DOMESTICATED.


" The children, when caught young, are most easily domesti- cated and manifest a great aptitude to learn whatever is taught them; wben taken into Spanish families, and treated with kindness, in a few months they learn the language and habits of their masters. When they come to maturity they show no disposition to return to the savage state. The mind of the wild Indian of whatever age, appears to be a tabula rasa, on which no impressions, except those of mere animal nature, have been made, and ready to receive any impress whatever. I remember a remark of yours some years ago, that "Indians were only grown-up children." Here we have a real race of infants. In many recent instances when a family of white people have taken a farm in the vicinity of an Indian village, in a short time they would have the whole tribe for willing serfs. They submit to flagellation with more humility than the negroes. Nothing more is necessary for their complete subjugation but kindness in the beginning, and a little well- timed severity when manifestly deserved. It is common for the white man to ask the Indian, when the latter has committed any fault, how many lashes he thinks he deserves.


INDIAN SIMPLICITY.


" The Indian, with a simplicity and humility almost incon- ceivahle, replies ten or twenty, according to his opinion of the magnitude of the offense. The white man then orders another


16


INCREASED IMMIGRATION TO CALIFORNIA.


Indian to inflict the punishment, which is received withont the lenst sign of resentiment or discontent. This I have myself witnessed or I could hardly have believed it. Througbout all California the Indians are the principal laborers; withont them the business of the country could hardly be carried on.


" I fear the unexpected length of this desultory epistle will be terlions to you, but I hope it will serve at least to diversify your correspondence. If I can afford you any information, or be serviceable to you in any way, I beg you to command ine. Any communication to me can be sent through the American Minister at Mexico, or the Commanding Officer of the Squad- ron in the Pacific, directed to the care of T. O. Larkin, Esq., American Consul in Monterey. I am, sir, very respectfully,


" Your obedient servant,


" FION. LEWIS CASS.


JOHN MARSH."


[Dr. Marsh was murdered on the 24thi of September, 1856. It occasioned much excitement at the time, as the Doctor was one of the oldest residents of the State. The murderers were Mexicans, who followed him as he was on the road towards home from Pacheco. The discovery of the horse and buggy in Martinez at early daylight, was the first knowledge of the affair. One of the murderers was arrested the next day. He was tried, but escaped from jail and eluded pursuit for ten years. He was again arrested, with his accomplice, P. Moreno, who was sentenced to State Prison for life, while the first was discharged. -EDITOR.]


INCREASED IMMIGRATION.


1840 .- In the first five years of the decade commencing with 1840, there began to settle in the vast Californian valleys that intrepid band of pioneers, who, having scaled the Sierra Nevada with their wagons, trains, and cattle, began the civil- izing influences of progress on the Pacific Coast. Many of them had left their homes in the Atlantic and Sonthern States, with tbe avowed intention of proceeding direct to Oregon. On arrival at Fort Hall, however, they heard glowing accounts of tbe salubrity of the Californian climate and the fertility of its soil; they therefore turned their heads sontbward, and steered for the wished-for haven. At length, after weary days of toil and anxiety, fatigued and foot-sore. the promised land was gained And what was it like ?


CALIFORNIA IN A STATE OF NATURE.


The valleys were an interminable grain field; mile upon mile, and acre after acre, wild oats grew in marvelous profn- sion, in many places to a prodigious height-one glorions green of wild waving corn-high overhead of the wayfarer on foot, and shoulder-high with the equestrian; wild flowers of every prismatic shade charmedl the eye, while they vied with each other in the gorgeonsness of their colors, and blended into daz- zling splendor.


One breath of wind and the wild emerald expanse rippled itself into space, while with the heavier breeze came a swell whose rolling waves beat against the mountain sidles, and, being


hurled back, were lost in the far-away horizon; shadow pursned shadow in a long, merry chase.


The air was filled with the hum of bees, the chirrup of birds and an overpowering fragrance from various plants. The hill- sides, overrun as they were with a dense mass of tangled jungle, were hard to penetrate, while in some portions the deep dark gloom of the forest trees lent relief to the eye. The almost boundless range was intersected throughout with divergent trails, whereby the traveler moved from point to point, progress being, as it were, in darkness on account of the height of the oats on either side, and rendered dangerons in the valleys by the bands of untamed cattle, sprung from the stock introduced by the missions and early Spanish settlers. These found food and shelter on the plains during the night; at dawn they repaired to the higher grounds to cbew the end and bask in the sunshine.


THE HARDY PIONEERS.


What a life was that of the early pioneer, and how much of life was often crowded into a year, or, sometimes, even into a day of their existence! Now, that the roads are all made, and the diin trail has been supplanted by well-beaten and much- traveled highways, how complacently we talk and write and read of their deeds and exploits.


It has been theirs to snbilne the wilderness, and change it into smiling fields of bright growing grain. Toil and priva- tions, such as we can little appreciate now, was their lot for years. Poor houses, and even no houses at all, but a simple tent, or even an Indian wickiup, sheltered tbem from the rigors of the storm and the inclemency of the weather. The wild beasts of the woods were their night visitors, prowling about and making nigbt hideous with their nnearthly noises, and working the nerves of women, and often, perhaps of men, up to a tension that precluded the possibility of sleep and rest. Neigh- bors lived many miles away, and visits were rare and bighly appreciate d.


LAW AND ORDER PREVAILED.


Law and order prevailed almost exclusively, and locks and bars to doors were then unknown, and the only thing to fear in human shape were the petty depredations by Indians. For food they had the fruit of the chase, which afforded them ample meat, but bread was sometimes a rarity, and appreciated when had as only those things are which tend most to onr comfort, and which we are able to enjoy the least amount of. But they were happy in that life of freedom from the environ- ments of society and social usage. They breathed the pure, fresh air, untainted by any odor of civilization; they ate the first frnits of the virgin soil, and grew strong and free on its strength and freedomn.


ARRIVAL OF CAPTAIN SUTTER.


The sonthern portion of California was essentially Spanish and Mexican in its population, while the northern part was left to the occupation of foreigners. The Sacramento Valley was


47


ARRIVAL OF PIONEER PARTIES.


comparatively unnoticed until after the settlement of Captain Jolm A. Sutter at New Helvetia, but following that event, it became the theater for grand operations and achievements. Sutter's Fort was the nucleus about which congregated nearly all of the early emigrants, and the annexation of California is largely due to the influence of that gentleman and those asso- ciated with him. Ever hospitable and generous, he was a friend to whom the early settlers and explorers repaired for advice and sustenance.


1839 .- Captain John Augustus Sutter was born in Baden Germany, at midnight, February 28, 1803, of Swiss parents After the completion of his education he became a Captain in the F'rench army, but becoming tired of the superficial nature of French society aud custouis, he set out for America, to find some secluded spot where he might surround himself with a home and associations more in consonance with his ideas and tastes. New York was reached iu July, 1834, and from there, after a sojourn of only one month, the Captain went to the far- famed " West." From here lie journeyed to New Mexico and having heard of the marvelous beauty and fertility of Califor- nia, he joined a party of trappers, expecting soon to reach his destination. But the journey ended at Fort Vancouver, and Captain Sutter's only way to reach California was to go to the Saudwich Islands and from there to take a sailing ship to Mon- terey. After waiting a long time in Honolulu he took passage in a ship bound for Sitka. By singular good luck the vessel was driven into San Francisco Bay, July 2, 1839.


Captain Sutter, having reached the goal of his ambition, received permission from the Mexican authorities to select a place for settlement in the Sacramento Valley. After much difficulty he finally succeeded in reaching the junction of the Sacramento and American Rivers.


SUTTER'S FORT LOCATED


1840 .- A location was made, and Captain Sutter commenced the construction of a house. The spot was named " New Hel- vetia," in honor of his mother country. On account of the strength, armament and formidable appearance of the build- iugs, the place was called by all the carly settlers, " Sutter's Fort," which name is even now the most general onc. This fort was commenced in 1842 and finished in 1844. In 1841, when his grant of land was to be made, it became necessary to have a map of the tract, and he employed for that purpose Captain Jean Vioget, a seamen and Swiss by birth. The sur- vey was made by lines of latitude and longitude. Sutter made his application under this survey of 1841, the same year the map was completed. The Mexican laws allowed only eleven leagues to be granted to any one person, but Sutter's map con- tained fifty leagues or more. Nevertheless he got the idea that he could hold it, and with this came the idea that he could sell it. The original claim embraced a considerable por- tion of Sacramento and Placer Counties, all of Sutter, the valley portion of Yuba, and a little point of Colusa:


PIONEER PARTY OF 1839.


1839 .- In the early part of 1839 a company was made up in St. Louis, Missouri, to cross the plains to California, consisting of D. G. Johnson, Charles Klein, David D. Dutton, mentioned carlier as having come to the country with Captain Smith and William Wiggins Fearing the treachery of the Indians this little band determined to await the departure of a party of traders in the employ of the American For Company, on their annual tour to the Rocky Mountains, At Westport they were joined by Messrs. Wright, Gegger, a Doctor Wiselzeuius and his German companion, and Peter Lassen, also two missionaries with their wives and hired man, en route for Oregon, as well as a lot of what were termed fur trappers, bound for the mount- ains, the entire company consisting of twenty-seven men and two women. At Fort Hall, Klein and Wiselzenius returned, thus reducing the number to twenty-five.


GEN. JOHN A. SUTTER.


In September, the company reached Oregon, and sojourned there during the winter of that year; but in May, 1840, a ves- sel arrived with missionaries from England, designing to touch at California on her return. Mr. William Wiggins, now of Monterey, the narrator of this expedition, and his three com- panions from Missouri, among whom was David D. Dutton, at present a resident of Vacaville, Solano County, got on board.


The vessel put in at Bodega, where the Russians were. The Mexican Commandant sent a party of soldiers to prevent them from landing. At this crisis, the Russian Governor ordered the Mexican soldiers to leave or be shot dowu. They then retired.


Here our travelers were at a stand-still, with no means of proceeding on their journey, or of finding their way out of the inhospitable country ; they therefore penned the following com- inunication to the American Consul, then at Monterey :-


PORT BODEGA, July 25, 1840. "To the American Consul of California-


"DEAR SIR: We, the undersigned citizens of the United States, being desirous to land in the country, and having been


48


FIRST SETTLEMENTS IN THE VALLEY.


refused a passport, and been opposed by the Government, we write to you, sir, for advice, and elaiin your protection. Being short of funds, we are not able to proceed further on the ship. We have concluded to land under the protection of the Rus- sians; we will remain there fifteen days, or until we receive an answer from you, which we hope will be as soon as the eircum- stances of the ease will permit. We have been refused a pass- port from General Vallejo. Our object is to get to the settle- ments, or to obtain a pass to return to our own country. Should we receive no relief, we will take up our arms and travel, con- sider ourselves in an enemy's country, and defend ourselves with our guns.


" We subscribe ourselves, ' Most respectfully, " DAVID DUTTON, " JOHN STEVENS, " PETER LASSEN,


WM. WIGGINS,


J. WRIGHT."


PIONEER PARTY OF 1841.


184] .- May 8, a party of thirty-six persons left Independence Missouri, hound for California. They passed near Salt Lake to Carson River, and then to the main channel of Walker's River. Near its source they crossed the Sierras, and descended into the San Joaquin Valley. They crossed the San Joaquin River at the site of the present railroad bridge; and, reaching the ranch of Dr. Marsh, at the base of Mount Diablo, the eyes of the party were refreshed with the first signs of civilization which had greeted them from the time of leaving Fort Laramie.


Of this adventurous little hand who braved the hardships aud dangers of a journey, then occupying months, which can now he compassed within a week, a number are still living in Cali- fornia, among whom may be mentioned General Johu Bidwell of Chico-of which he is the honored founder-having filled high publie stations which mark the esteem and confidence reposed in him hy his fellow-citizens, not only of his own imme- diate home, but of the entire State; Captain Charles M. Weh- er, one of the most prominent of the pioneer citizens of Stock- ton, who died in 1880; Josiah Belden, one of the oldest resi- dents of San Jose.


This party disbanded at Dr. Marsh's, and hecame scattered throughout the State. Many of these emigrants have played such important parts in the early history of California that a few of the principal names are appended :-


COL. J. B. BARTLESON, Captain of the party. Returned to Missouri. Is now dead.


GEN. JOHN BIDWELL,


COL. JOSEPH B. CHILDS, JOSIAH BELDEN, CHARLES ML. WEBER, CHARLES HOPPER,


HENRY HUBER, MICHAEL C. NYE,


GREEN MCMAHON,


Resides in Chico, Butte County. Resides in St. Helena, Napa County. Resides at San Jose and S. F. Resided in Stockton. Died in 1880. Resides in Yountville, Napa County. Resides in San Fraueisco.


Resides in Oregon.


Resides in Vacaville, Solano County.


BENJ. KELSEY and wife, Reside in Santa Barbara County.


ANDREW KELSEY,


Killed by the Indians at Clear Lake. Died March 26, 1878, at Tehama.


ROBERT H. THOMES,


ELIAS BARNETT,


Lives in Yountville, Napa County.


Died at or near Santa Cruz.


J. P. SPRINGER,


FIRST SETTLEMENTS IN THE VALLEY.


1841 .- It is a fact that there was not a house in the Sacra - mento or San Joaquin Valleys in 1841, except those of Sutter and Dr. Marsh. Sutter had one adohe house and a few huts, but his fort was not completed until sometime afterwards.


After the settlement of New Helvetia, the next point where a dwelling was located was about two miles northeast of the fort on the American River, in 1841. This was settled by John Sinclair for Captain Elias Grimes and Hiram Grimes, to whom Sutter afterwards sold it. It made a fine ranch and farm, and was extensively stoeked.


1842 .- Nicolaus Allgeier, in 1842, was placed on what is known as the town of Nicolaus, on the east bank of Feather River. The next two places of Gordon and Baca were settled in the fall of this year. Hock Farm, which subsequently became the home of Captain Sutter, was established and made his principal stoek-farm, the animals ranging over that part of Sutter County lying west of Feather River, and south of the Butte Mountains.


The land in the vicinity of Marysville was leased to Theo- dore Cordua. Cordua made a stock-farm of it to a limited extent. Marysville is located where he erected, at what is now the foot of D Street, an ahode dwelling-house, a store-house or trading room, culinary department and out-houses. The walls of the dwelling were thiek, and well constructed for withstand- ing a siege. The spot was named " New Mecklenburg" by Captain Sutter, in honor of the place of nativity of Cordua. It soon heeame known, however, as Cordua's Ranch.


William Gordon settled on his raneh on Cache Creek, in Yolo County, in the fall of 1842. The place now kuown as Vacaville was settled ahout the same time by Manual Baea, from New Mexico.


PIONEER PARTY OF 1843.


1843 .- In the fall of this year, a party arrived aeross the plains via Fort Boise and Pit River. They came dowu the west bank of the Sacramento River into what is now Colusa County, crossed the river helow the mouth of Stony Creek.


Major P. B. Redding, who was with this party, sketched the land ahout the mouth of Stony Creek, and not being entitled to receive a grant himself, gave the map to the wife of Dr. Stokes, of Monterey, who was a Mexican woman, and she obtained a grant, giving Redding two leagues, or perhaps half the grant, for his locations. This was the first grant made within the limits of Colusa County, and the first settler on the grant was a man hy the name of Bryant, who built a house and raised some eorn in 1846.


FERNDALE", RESIDENCE OF MRS. ISABELLA SHAW, FERNDALE, HUMBOLDT CO. CAL.




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