USA > California > Humboldt County > History of Humboldt County, California : with illustrations descriptive of its scenery, farms, residences, public buildings, factories, hotels, business houses, schools, churches, etc., from original drawings, including biographical sketches > Part 27
Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).
Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 | Part 5 | Part 6 | Part 7 | Part 8 | Part 9 | Part 10 | Part 11 | Part 12 | Part 13 | Part 14 | Part 15 | Part 16 | Part 17 | Part 18 | Part 19 | Part 20 | Part 21 | Part 22 | Part 23 | Part 24 | Part 25 | Part 26 | Part 27 | Part 28 | Part 29 | Part 30 | Part 31 | Part 32 | Part 33 | Part 34 | Part 35 | Part 36 | Part 37 | Part 38 | Part 39 | Part 40 | Part 41 | Part 42 | Part 43 | Part 44 | Part 45 | Part 46 | Part 47 | Part 48
It has a course of more than 125 miles in the county, and, with its tributaries, Van Dusen, Larabee, South Fork and
126
GEOGRAPHICAL FEATURES OF HUMBOLDT.
Yager, cach about 100 miles in length, constitute an important physical feature of the county.
Eel is an exceedingly crooked river, but its general course is northward, bearing somewhat to the west, and emptying into the Pacific a few miles south of Humboldt Bay. It is most prolific in crooks aud rapids. The hed of the river is obstructed by rocks, often of the most massive kind, so that it cannot be followed down by animals, and only forded at rare intervals. Eel River has been known to rise in its banks from twenty to thirty fect withiu a few hours. The Indian name of the river was " Wee-ot-lolla" (many ecls). A town was laid out hy'Sam Brannan, in 1850, on this river and named Trinity City.
EEL RIVER ENTRANCE,
The shipping point is on Salt River, which empties into Eel about one mile from its mouth, It would be impossible to exaggerate or overestimate the beauty, fertility and importance of the region round about Eel River.
J. G. Kenyon, the original owner of the land upon which the shipping point known as Port Keuyon is situated, struggled long and bravely to establish the fact of the navigability of the bar. He finally enlisted T. P. H, Whitelaw of San Francisco in the matter, and the result was a staunch and well-con- structed steamer of excellent sea-going qualities, the Thos, A. Whitelaw, which for a time made regular trips.
The citizens of Ferudale and vicinity lately took active steps toward having the entrance of Eel River improved, in order to render the same navigable for steamers at all times. At their late meeting a committee was appointed to collect statistics and information, which report we clip from the Enterprise :-
To the Honorable, the Senate and House of Representatives in Congress assembled-
WE, the undersigned, and residents of Eel River Valley, County of Humboldt, State of California, would most respect- fully represent,
That, Eel River and its tributaries drain a large section of country, rich in natural resources, consisting of the finest agricultural, grazing and timber lands;
That, the country has heen thiekly settled hy a hard-working class of people who are using their best endeavors to develop these resources;
That, for years vessels have entered Eel River Harhor, and at times steamers have run between said river and San Fran- cisco regularly ;
That, at the present time a steamer, built by the people and costing $60,000, is plying between said ports;
That, at this timo the entrance to our harhor is dangerous and unsafe, causing an interruption of communication with San Francisco.
We would, therefore, most respectfully ask that the sum of $100,000 be appropriated for the purpose of making our harhor permanently safe for vessels to enter at all times.
BEAR RIVER.
This river rises at the foot of Mount Pierce and has a due west course emptying into the ocean near Cape Mendocino. There is not nunch bottom-land on this river. It lays in patches of from five to twenty acres, and at some places the bills push down to the river's edge. There are about a dozen ranches located on the river in a distance of about six miles. The hill-sides, as usual on the north side of the river, present- ing a south face to the sun, are open and covered with grass; ou the south side of the river, presenting a north face, covered with timber. Pepperwood, maple and spruce are scattered along the river.
WONDERFUL GAS SPRING.
At a point on the ridge ahout six miles up from the county road, a trail makes down one of the side ridges towards Bear River. Ahout half way down this ridge, turning sharp to the left and descending to the gulch below, a distance of half a mile, is one of the wonders of California. It is the gas spring, jet or whatever you may call it, of Bear River. There are several, hut this is the principal one. It is one mass of blue flame, covering over ten feet square of ground. It is a strange sight to see the blue flame thus hurning in so large a hody, upon the bare ground, particularly when we consider the fact that it had burned continuously some six or seven years, The spectator cannot help gazing and wondering, and speculating in his mind as to the source of this fiery fount. The fact remains, however, that a large amount of coal oil gas escapes from these gulches, and there are ahundant evidences of the presence of coal oil, which must have been expressed from some vast bed of coal lying back near the South Fork.
MATTOLE RIVER.
In 1854, John Hill, in a trip to the south part of the county, found a river that had heen heretofore unknown. It was called by the Indians " Mattole," which signifies clear water. The Indians had apparently never seen a white man at that time. He reported the valley of the river in glowing terms, as having open prairie ready for settlers, the tahle-land easy to clear.
Near the river cottonwood was the principal growth, hut as you recede spruce, pine and redwood predominate. The prairie patches were then covered with the finest specimens of clover which grew to an almost unheard of height, The tim- bered lands were covered with wild cats and several varieties of grass. The Mattole rises in Mendocino and seventy-five miles of its one hundred lies in this county.
LAND-OFFICE AND PUBLIC LANDS.
As early as 1856 the Legislature passed a resolution to estab- lish an additional land district in the northern part of the State, and that a land-office be established in Humboldt County,
127
PUBLIC LANDS OF HUMBOLDT COUNTY.
By Act of Congress a land-office was opened in 1858, and W nt. MeDaniels and Major Hook were Register and Receiver
The officers thought it their duty under their instructions to open the office at " Humboldt Point," until they should receive orders from the department at Washington to remove it to Eurcka, in accordance with a petition previously forwarded. No authority having arrived for such removal, and the winter season approaching, the officers found it necessary to find new quarters. At Humbolt Point they had no other conveniences, cither for themselves or persons wishing to do business before them, than found in any ordinary private family. They selected Bucksport, and moved there October, 1858, as the nearest point to the imaginary town of "Humboldt Point," at which place they were instructed to open the office. Humboldt City faded away, like many another western city, aud the office found its way to Eureka, though we believe no official transfer was ever made.
Since the office has been established here there have been seven Registers and three Receivers, the present incumbent, Mr. Cooper, having been in the office for fourteeu years, and C. P. Roberts, the Register, for ten years. A new building, constructed at the northeast coruer of Fourth and F Streets, will be used as the United States Land Office. The lot is owned by Solomon Cooper, Receiver of the Land Office.
FIRST ENTRY IN LAND OFFICE.
The first entry in the Land Office was as follows: "No. 1, October 14, Seth Kinsmau of Humboldt County, the south half of the NW. quarter, of Section 36, Township No. 4 N., of Range No. 2 W .; 80 acres."
During the twenty-four years of its existence there have been 6,562 entries made in Humboldt Land Office, as follows :- Ilomestead Applications. 1,838
Pre-emption Declaratory Statements filed. 4,653
71
Mining Applications.
Total entries 6,562
For the same time 4,576 cash entries-that is, final proofs- have been made, 521 being homesteads, the balance, pre-emp- tions and mining claims. Allowing 160 acres to eachi elaim, the total entries for the twenty-four years would amount to 749,920 acres for the district. At the average price of $1.25 per acre this would give the sum of $935,400. But the valne is probably much more than this, because a portion of the land described is held at $2.50 per acre. The business of the office for the year ending December 31st, has been as follows :- Acre3
248 Pre-emption Declaratory Statements 39,680
102 Homestead Entries. 15,686
9 Mining Applications 917
99 Final Homestead Certificates Issued. 15,423
The number of acres disposed of was 28,844, for which the Government received $30,164.30.
HUMBOLDT DISTRICT.
This district includes Humboldt and Del Norte Counties, and those portions of Trinity and Siskiyou that lie west of range 10 west, Mount Diablo Meridian. Register C. P Roberts approx- imates the unsold Government land in his district in the follow- ing proportions :--
Humboldt County (acres). 1,250,000
Del Norte. 1,250,000
Trinity 1,750,000
Siskiyou. 750,000
Total (acres). 5,000,000
In regard to the peculiarities of the land, it contains mineral of untold wealth, while there is no limit to the timber arra, the only dithiculty beiug inability to get it to market. The mount- ain grazing country is claimed to be too cold to wiuter stock without preparing food for winter use. There is very little valley land susceptible of cultivation that is not taken up.
A FIELD FOR EMIGRATION.
As a field for emigration Mr. Roberts does not give a very glowing account as reported in the San Francisco papers. He gay's: " We have little to offer as an inducement for emigration in the way of Government lands, for many reasons. First, the cost of getting here by steamer is ten dollars; second, the lack of roads to enable a person to get around over the country. If the land were surveyed and we had a railroad, there is room for thousands of families who could make a good living. As it is, many who went into the hills years ago with the intention of making themselves homes, found upon trial that they were not living in the proper sense. They were only staying away from churches, schools and society, all of which privileges and advantages they could have, and yet make a good living, by coming nearer the towns and settlements. As a natural con- sequence they have mostly sold out to some stock-raiser and left the hills. There is not one family in the bills now where ten could be found eight or ten years ago. Business of all kinds has been good for the past year-work for all, and every one well paid. The three leading industries of the country, lumber, wool and dairying, are in a flourishing condition; never better. The farmers who depend upon the raising of grain and potatoes have not done so well, owing to short crops caused by blight, as well as too heavy freight charges. Taken as a whole, our county is in a prosperous condition, and will compare favorably with any in the State, all things considered."
The Times remarks on the above as follows: "The timber land is of bittle value for farming, for the reason that the stumps and roots never decay and cannot be removed. There is a good deal of land now used for cattle and sheep ranges that would make good agricultural land, but the owners do not care to dispose of these ranges. There are small patches here and there where fine farms can be made at reasonable expense. It is safe to say that the resources of the county are almost
128
THE SCENERY, AND PLEASURE RESORTS.
wholly undeveloped. They consist chiefly in forest, mining, agricultural and grazing 'lands, any one of which is sufficient in point of value and extent to insure a prosperous growth.
SCENERY AND RESORTS.
In speaking of the natural endowments of the county, the Humboldt Standard says :-
Yo Semite and other mountain gorges having surpassing romantie 'attractions, have become publie resorts; some of our lakes in the interior of the State have also become the rendez- vous for the sunmer tourists Others have been beautified and retained as private homes or country residences. Thus far the seeming isolation of Humboldt County has prevented the im- provement of any of her natural beauties. And yet we have them, rare gems of romantie grandeur, elaiming both mountain bill and glen, river, lake and ocean, beach and bluff. The almost certainty of the advent of the railroad through our county in the near future, brings these points of attraction more foreibly to mind, for we bave some unsurpassed locations, particularly on the coast north of Trinidad. About nine miles ahove the town named are several lakes-three in num- ber-which are deep, have well-defined shores, are not intruded upon by marshes, abound with all the fish native to that see- tion, aud would afford magnificent and safe yachting.
THE BLUE LAKES.
Blue Lake, near Areata, is one of the most important resorts in the county. A hotel is kept here hy Clement Chartin The house is roomy and cheerful, and has been built with an especial regard to the comfort of pleasure seekers. The neighbor- hood is one of the most romantie and inviting spots on the North Pacific Coast. Parties and families desiring to spend a short time in the country will find a well-provided table, with every comfort and convenience desired and every attention shown. Complete accommodations for wayfarers and travelers. The Blue Lake Hotel is situated on the north side of Mad River, on the Mad River road, ahout eight miles from Areata. Stage conneets with the Arcata boat daily, Sundays excepted. This is the only direet route to Greeu Point, Willow Creek, Hoopa Valley, New River, Orleans Bar, Sawyer's Bar, Weaverville and the lumbering part of Mad River, and a trip out to Blue Lake will afford a fine view of the redwoods and other scenery. Our artist has given a sketch of this beautiful and romantie resort.
RIO DELL SCENERY.
For another view of the country we recommend a ride to Rio Dell, a charming country retreat, situated on Eel River, which offers unsurpassed attractions to the tourist and pleasure seeker.
Here he will find a comfortably furnished and well-kept inu, where he ean loll in the sunshine, eat fruit to his heart's content and tbe satisfaction of his inner man.
If be wants a boat ride he ean take one on the limpid waters of Eel River, which, for the space of a mile or inore, seems to have given up its idea of wandering over the whole adjacent country. It forms a summer lake and makes a beautiful sheet of water. The hotel is kept by L. Painter, and is illustrated and fully described elsewhere. The visitor will enjoy himself and live on an abundance of fresh fruit, milk, and butter from the home, garden, and dairy. Stage runs regularly from Fern- dale and Eureka during the summer season.
VANCE'S PICNIC GROUNDS.
An annual pienie, engineered and managed by John Vance, Esq., has been held for several years. This trips affords a delightful view of the redwood forests and other seenery. It is thus mentioned by a correspondent: "The company started from the eity wharf on three barges, drawn by steamers Ada and Lillie Jones, having on hoard about 1,000 persons, and at the landing took the ears on Vanee's railroad. During the run of about six miles many changes of climate and seenery were apparent. The beautiful little engine, a perfeet model of tbe larger ones used on ordinary railroads, carried ns along at times with a high rate of speed. Rushing suddenly from the level prairie shores of the bay, which are swept by northern winds, we plunge into a jungle of almost tropical riehness, through which a road is eut, barely wide enough for the track, on either side of which is seen a dense growth of vegetation, interspersed with giant trees towering above the mass of ver- dure, silent monitors, who bave come down to us perhaps from the antediluvian.
Soon we enter upon a eurving line of trestle-work and eross the rapid stream of Mad River on a covered bridge, then winding up the north bank of this wild and romantie river, through deep euts and narrow vales, where eosy farm-houses loom out from sheltered nooks and warm valleys, elothed with yellow harvests, gardens and orchards, where the coast winds never penetrate.
The pienie grounds are well arranged, and located just below the busy mill and village. Within the inelosure are abundant facilities for rest and comfort in the way of seats and tables, sunshine and shade, with an extensive view down into the river and np the mountain sides, also a commodious platform for dancing and promenading. The Eureka band and Kau- sen's orchestra accompanied tbe pienieers, and played during the trip to and fro, and also at the grounds.
DESCRIPTION OF HUMBOLDT BAY.
The Bureau of the United States Coast Survey, A. D. Bache Superintendent, published the following : "Sailing directions -tbis harbor may be easily recognized by a remarkable red bluff* facing the entrance, with a perpendienlar front to the
* The Red Bluff mentioned is generally called " Howard's Bluff," from the fact that it was embraced in the premises of Maj. E. H. Howard.
A.M.GILL.
STOREAND WAREHOUSE OF A.M. GILL, ROHNERVILLE, HUMBOLDT CO.CAL.
FARM & RESIDENCE OF WILLIAM CAMPTON, RHONERVILLE, HUMBOLDT CO. CAL.
4
129
HUMBOLDT BAY AND HARBOR DESCRIBED.
sea of ninety-six feet, and by the head-land, known as Table Bluff, five miles to the southward. To enter the harbor. bring Howard's house ( Maj. E. H. Howard, still a resident of Egreka . a large white four-story house, to bear by compass, SE., and well on with a point of trees on the highlands, two miles back. Run it on this range until across the bar, when the breakers on either side of the channel will be a sufficient guide to the anchorage."
Latitude of Humboklt entrance 40° 46' 05.“ Longitude West from Greenwich, 124º 12' 21". Variations of the Mag- netie Needle, 17° 04" East. Captain Ottinger, of the U. S Revenue Marine, reported (1850) eighteen feet at low water on the har.
Humboldt Bay divides, one portion running northeast from Humboldt Point about twenty miles, from one to eight miles wide, dotted over with beautiful islands. The bay is the shape of a pear with the stem towards the sea, with a depth of water sufficient for vessels to lay auywhere close up to the bluff shores safe from any and all gales that may blow. The anchorago grounds are equal to any port in the world. Ships are not compelled to discharge freight at the "ship's taekles," one or two miles from land, but come directly to the wharves.
The other portion of the bay runs from Humboldt Point southcast, with two channels. This bay is comparatively long and narrow. Its length is something over twenty miles, with a width ranging from less than a mile to eight miles. The area of the bay is from thirty-six to forty square miles, a portion of which is very shallow tide water. The exit to the sea is at the south end. Tho sand ridgo between the bay and the ocean is covered with a stunted growth of trees, which breaks the force of the storm coming over the ocean. The depth of the bay about Eureka ranges from ten to thirty feet of water, but much of this bay is extremely shallow. However, in the vicinity of Eureka, tho largest sea-going vessels will easily float when once in the bay.
WHO FIRST DISCOVERED HUMBOLDT BAY.
Iu preparing the carly history of Humboldt Bay, we cor- responded with Stephen H. Meek, the veteran trapper and hunter. Ho came on a trapping expedition to California in 1832. He wintered on Tulare Lake in 1833. He followed trapping all over California. In 1835 he trapped for the Hudson Bay Fur Company on Rogue River, Trinity, Scott, Pit, Yuba, Feather, American and other streams. In 1842 he wintered in Oregon. In 1845 he conducted the first large train of 480 wagons to Oregon. It is very evident that he knew if there were any trappers about Humboldt Bay at that time. He is still hunting and trap- ping the streams of Northern California, and we inquired of him if he knew anything about Humboldt Bay at that date, and received the following reply :-
"ETNA, Siskiyon Co., C'al., January 4, 1SS2.
" PUBLISHER OF COUNTY HISTORY-Dear Sir: As regards the early history of Humboldt Bay, it is very clear that the first explorations along that coast, and within the bay itself, was made by Mr. William G. Ray, a factor of the Hudson Bay Compauy, who was sent down the coast from Vancouver to at- tempt the establishment of one or more stations ou the coast, about tho year 1830 or 1831. Ile entered this bay (being un- der the impression that it was Drake's Bay), passing close under tbe bluff called Table Bluff, and discovered what he named Clearwater Bay, on account of the purity of its waters. On landing he found the Indians so hostile that. no permanent station was established at that time, whereupon he sailed far- ther south and established a post at Drake's Bay, which is there yet, I believe. This same Mr. Ray, as good a man as ever lived, at the beginning of the Mexican war, being still an employé of the Hudson Bay Company, took sides with the Americans in the contest, contrary to the wishes of his employ- ers, for which action he was cashiered. This disgrace preyed upon his mind to such an extent that he committed suicide in his own house in San Francisco, and was buried in the garden of the old establishment, from whence his remains have been removed to a cemetery.
" Yours truly, STEPHEN H. MEEK."
DANGEROUS ENTRANCE TO BAY.
The danger at Humboldt Bay is at the entrance. It cannot be denied that the condition of the bar and entrance present a very serious question to the shippers and to every resident of Eureka, and of the whole county.
The North and Sonth Sprits are, for a mile on each side of the entrance, subject to occasional irruptions by the ocean, which materially widen the space and cause shoal water. The channel, after crossing the bar, is bnt one-fourtli of'a inile in width for some distance. While the North and South Sprits remain in their present condition three tidal currents, one from the bay proper (north), one from Elk River (east), and the other from the south bay, meet at the entrance.
Capt. H. H. Buhne, whose experience as a pilot in this har- bor dates back to its earliest discovery, and who was the first to sound the entrance aud enter the bay in a whale boat from the sea, does not speak very encouragingly of the possibility of building a breakwater.
On the 18th of November, 1881, sixteen sailing vessels were lying laden with lumber waiting for an opportunity to eross the bar. The ocean breaks upon this bar, and it is often very difficult to get over, and always very rough. The depth npon the bar varies from ten to sixteen feet. In seasons of heavy storms the ocean waves gain the ascendancy, and the minimum depth prevails.
Hon. J. T. Ryan's Mary Ann was the first tug which towed vessels in and out in 1852.
130
HUMBOLDT BAY AND HARBOR DESCRIBED.
NUMBER OF SHIPWRECKS.
The following record of the number of shipwrecks on or near Humboldt Bar was prepared for us by W. P. Daykin :-
1850-Eclipse, brig San Jacinto, schooner Surah Wardwell. 1851 -- Bark June, steamer Commodore Preble.
1852-Stemmer Sea Gull, bark Home, bark Cornwallis, brig John Clifford.
1853-Schooner Mexican.
1855-Schooner Piedmont, schooner Sierra Nevada.
1858-Schooner Toronto.
1859-Schooner J. W. Ryerson.
1860-Bark Success, steamer Northerner, thirty lives lost, near Centreville.
1862-Schooner T. II. Allen, one life lost; hrig Eolus. 1863-Steam tug Merrimac, thirteen lives lost; schooner Dashaway, fourteen lives lost at sea.
1864-Bark Hartford.
1876-Shooner Albert & Edward, five lives lost, one saved.
1877-Schooner Marricetta, all saved.
1878-Schooner Laura Pike, seven lives lost.
1879-Scow Sara, lost at sea off Crescent City.
1880-Schoouer Edward Parker, two lives lost, four saved.
HUMBOLDT BAY LIGHTHOUSE,
The light was exhibited for the first time on the night of the 20th of December, 1856, and was thus described :-
At the entrance of Humboldt Bay is a fixed, white light, fourth order of fresnel, illuminating the entire horizon. The house is situated on the northi sands, three-fourths of a mile from the inlet, and about midway between the hay and sea- shores. It consists of a keeper's dwelling of one story and a half, with a tower rising twenty-one feet above the roof from the center, hoth plastered and white-washed and sur- mounted by an iron lantern painted red.
The light is fifty-three feet above bigh water of spring tides, and sbonld be scen iu elear weather from the deck of a sea- going vessel twelve nautical or fourteen statne miles.
The preseut keeper of the lighthouse, is Capt. W. P. Day- kin. He keeps a record of the weather and of the number of vessels eutering and departing, and mueh other useful iuforma- tion which he bas furnished for our bistory.
LIFE-SAVING STATION.
At the entrance to the bay at the lighthouse is a life-saving station. The apparatus is thus described :-
There is a brass mortar, by which a strong cord can be imme- diately attached to an ingeniously contrived projectile and thrown 700 feet from the shore or life-boat. The mortar, only weighing 100 pounds, cau be carried quickly to almost any point on the Peninsula, quickly arranged and the cord sent to its destination in one second from the time when fired. By means of this cord attached to a larger one, and this to a still larger one, and so on, persons upon a wrecked vessel could soon have a powerful cable connecting the wreck with the shore. The life-car is attached to this heavy cable by means of the cable passing through two iron rings, one at each end and top part of the boat, or car, by which means aud the use of a cord
Need help finding more records? Try our genealogical records directory which has more than 1 million sources to help you more easily locate the available records.