USA > California > Monterey County > History of Monterey County, California : with illustrations descriptive of its scenery, farms, residences, public buildings, factories, hotels, business houses, schools, churches, and mines : with biiographical sketches of prominent citizens > Part 16
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Some years since, this county contained more sheep than any other in the State. They are not as numerous at present, but more valuable, the breeds having been greatly improved.
There is, probably, uo county in the State as well adapted to this industry as Monterey. The hills in the Coast Range afford pasturage in seasons when the lowlands are suffering from drought.
Capes, Bays and Harbors.
Monterey bay, ninety-two miles south of San Francisco, is about thirty miles wide, and eireular in form. Point Pinos forms its southern, and Point New Year its northern headland. Near the latter headland is the harbor of Santa Cruz, while Carmel bay is in close proximity.
Quite an extensive eoasting trade is carried on from the numerous points around the bay, notwithstanding the bay offers but imperfeet shelter, it being somewhat exposed to winds during the winter months.
The Bay of Monterey was first ealled the Port of Pines. It was discovered in 1602, by General Sebastian Viseaiño, who, under orders from Phillip III. of Spain, made an exploration of the coast of Upper California. On the 10th of November he discovered the harbors of San Diego. After remaining there a short time, he resumed his northward course, and on the 16th of December discovered the Bay of Monterey, which he named in honor of Gaspar de Zunniga, Count de Monte Rey, at that time Viceroy of Mexico. Viseaino was mueh impressed with the beauty of the surroundings, and remained in the bay eighteen days. This was more fully explained on page fifteen.
80
MONTEREY AS A PORT AND SAFE HARBOR.
A pleasant excursion for a day in summer is a trip across the Bay of Monterey. The water is transparent as crystal; pebbles and mosses lying at the bottom, can be distinctly seen throughi twenty feet of this limpid element. In the vicinity of the old town of Monterey tho coast is bold and rocky, the situ- ation and appearance of the town picturesque, while the sur- roundings harmonize, blending the whole into a grand pano- rama.
A MAGNIFICENT SHEET OF WATER.
The Bay of Monterey is a magnificent sheet of water, and is twenty-eight miles from point to point. It is large enough to shelter the navies of the world, while its anchorage is secure except during very stormy weather. The harbor, proper, is in the shape of a horse shoe, the mnouth opening to the north ; it is amply protected from the south, east and west, and with a breakwater extending half a mile into the bay from the north-western shore the harbor would afford perfect safety from winds from any and all points of the compass; as it is, the largest ships may generally ride with safety any gale.
The bay is delightfully adapted to yachting; and many kinds of fish (and especially rock-cod, baraconta, pompino, Spanish mackerel, and flounder,) may be taken at all seasons of the year. For bathing purposes the beach is all that could be desired- oue long, bold sweep of wide, gently sloping, clean white sands-tho very perfection of a bathing beach, and so safe that childreu may play and bathe upon it with entire security. There are also great varieties of sea-mosses, shells, pebbles and agates scattered here and there along the riin of the bay, fringed as it is at all times with the creamy ripple of the surf of its broad, blue, beautiful waters.
MONTEREY AS A PORT.
We copy the following from the Salinas City Index :-
" It requires no great stretch of the imagination to predict that the products of a very large area of California, botli to the south and east of Monterey and Salinas, are ultimately to find their way to tide-water across our valley. In truth, between San Francisco aud San Pedro, a distance of over four hundred miles, we hold the gateway to the only accessible harbor for general commerce with the world. It is only a question of time in regard to the centering of other railroads to this point. To the doubting ones we say, examino the profile maps of the country then scan any map of the Atlantic sea- board, and answer us, whether in the light of what has como to pass elsewhere, we are extravagant iu our predictions.
" Wo would not give a fig for tho judgment of that man who is despondent over our futuro prospects. There were just such in San Francisco twenty years ago, and with about as mueh reason and judgment as those who aro fearful there is no further room for progress hero."
A SAFE HARBOR.
Nature has not made the harbor so good that the hand of man cannot improve it; and we believe it to be the duty of those interested in the future welfare of the State, to properly represent to Congress the great good that would result from the expenditure of a small sum of money, compared to the ben- efits that would accrue to the shipping interests of this coast, in improving the port of Monterey.
The harbor, proper, is in the shape of a horse-shoe, the mouth opening to the north, and it is amply protected from the south, east, and west; and with a breakwater extending half a milo into the bay from the north-western shore, the harbor would afford perfect safety from winds from any and all points of the compass. Even now the largest ships in the navies of the world can ride with safety through any galc that blows in the Bay of Monterey; but no doubt improvements can be made.
There is also a large natural laguna, which could be without difficulty transformed into a dry or wet dock. In fact, the natural position of Monterey is such that she is bound to become next to San Francisco, the most flourishing port on the coast. Her growth may be retarded, but it cannot be pre- vented.
POINT PINOS.
Point Pinos is a bold and rocky promontory extending or jutting out into the ocean, and forms the extreme western shore of the Bay of Monterey, and distant about three miles from Monterey. Here the breakers dash high on the rocks and afford a grand spectacle in the morning air. Here is found good sea fishing, and near by is Moss Beach, one of the pretty spots of beach which are so common along the bay. At low tido a person may walk out on the white beach nearly a half a mile on sand as hard as a rock. Here the moss gatherers spend hours in selecting varieties of the most beautiful and delicate moss. A little further on are a cluster of rocks upon which hundreds of seals sport.
POINT PINOS LIGHTHOUSE.
The building is a dark gray stone structure, one and one- half stories high, built in tho strongest and most substantial manner. Rising from the center or ridge of the roof is a brick tower paiuted white, on which is firmly placed the iron lanteru and illuminating apparatus, the exterior of which is painted red.
This light station was erected by order of Hon. Thomas Corwiu, Sceretary of the Treasury, in the year 1833. The light was first exhibited to mariners on January 20, 1853, and Charles Layton was first keeper appointed. The light is classed as a third order Fresnol, with catadioptrie lenses, of immense and powerful magnifying capacity. The light, in ordinary fair
RESIDENCE OF GEORGE W. HATCH, SALINAS CITY.
"CYPRESS COTTAGE" RES. OF J.B.SCOTT, SALINAS CITY, CAL,
+
CHURCH OF SAN CARLOS, CARMEL, MONTERY CO. CAL.
SANTA RITA SCHOOL HOUSE, SANTA RITA, MONTEREY CO- CAL.
81
CARMELO BAY AND ITS MANY ATTRACTIONS.
and clear weather, should be discernible from a vessel's deek sixteen and one-half nautical miles. The height of eenter of focal plane above high water on sea level is ninety-one feet. The are illuminated is four-fifths of the entire horizon, or two hundred and twenty-eight degrees. The description of the light, as given to mariners in their charts, is a third order' fixed white, Fresnel light. The drive to the light-house is pleasant and pretty, and well shaded. The view from the tower well repays the visitor for his pains, and those in charge are always pleased to see visitors and to show them every attention.
The following persons have been principal keepers of the light: Charles Layton, Charlotte Layton, George C. Harris Frank Porter, Andrew Wasson, and Captain Allen L. Luce.
BAY OF CARMELO.
This little bay is directly south of Cypress Point, the most prominent headland of the county coast line. It is about four miles south of the town and harbor of Monterey. It is four miles in length and two in width, and has deep water but is exposed to the south and south-east winds. The bay pos- sesses mueh natural beauty but is of little eommereial impor- tance as yet. It is a beautiful sheet of water. Silvery sands line tbe hay, whiter almost than the sea-foam as it splashes against the dark background. The beautiful, clear Carmelo river glistens in the sunlight as it empties its pure waters in this bay to be lost in the vast ocean.
CYPRESS POINT.
This is a eape at the entrance of Carmelo bay and as some writer says is the one spot more perfectly adapted to pienies than any other point in the State. This eape is not as pointed as some others hut is rough and rugged. The billows charge with great foree, hut inland they break in a ereamy ripple at tbe foot of green patched sand dunes. The black eypress from whieb the point was named three hundred years ago almost skirt the water. At a short distance is Pebble Beach where very pretty moss agates are to be found.
The ill-starred Moro roek lifts its dome-shaped head with threatening aspeet, warning mariners of the daugers of a roek- hound eoast. The eraggy roeks jut out into the ocean, and the playful breakers as they dash upon them send aloft sbowers of spray white as driven snow, while tbe sunlight shines through the bright green billows as they eurl and dash along in their impetuous, never-ending raee. At our feet the silvery erystal sands are sprinkled with glistening abalone shells, sea- polished, and the varied colors of the beautiful sea-mosses. Little pools teem with marine life and form a perfeet aquaria, and the broad Paeifie sweeps on in its uncontrollable course, bearing upon its bosom the wealth of empires.
This is named Lobos from " lobos del mar," a species of seal which eolleet at this point, and can be seen from the shore in great numbers.
THE MONTEREY CYPRESS.
This remarkable tree is found nowhere else except at this point, and here are not over one hundred trees. But great numbers have been propagated and introduced all over the State, and sent to the East. It is a beautiful evergreen, grows rapidly, is thiek, stout and graceful, attaining a height of forty to sixty feet. The largest trunk in the grove at Point Cypress was nineteen feet and two inehes in eireumferenee at three feet above the ground; or about six feet and four inches in diameter. The timber is very durable, and makes excellent posts and rails. The eones or globules are produced every year, and are about the size of a large filbert. The seed is, in shape and size, like onion seed, and may be sown in the same way and in the same sort of soil. The eones do not fall from the trees, and the seed is retained in them. At Cypress Point where the trees are kept almost constantly damp by the fog that rolls in from the ocean, the eones and seeds often hecome mouldy and worthless.
Professor Sargent, United States Botanical Department, says that nowhere in the world does the real eypress grow except on Point Cypress. Also, that a species of pine is found in no other place on the globe exeept within a radius of one hundred miles of this point.
POINT SUR.
This point or cape is about midway of the length of the eounty on the coast line. As you pass this point in vessels, the coast preseuts a rugged, inaeeessible and forbidding look. The Sur river enters the ocean a little south of the point. Here are dairy ranches, and some pretty but very narrow valleys. The mountains are heavily timbered all along the coast. Further on and near the boundary of the county, is Point Gorda. Going south from here the coast treuds to the east.
HEIGHT OF PEAKS AND PLACES.
The following are the heights of the principal mountains and places in and near Monterey county, as given in 1851, by Pro- fessor Mooney :-
Height-fect.
Mountains and Pinces.
San Antonio Mission. 1190
Ojitas Rancho. 980
Pass north and above raneb 1610
Santa Margarita Pass. 1620
San Luis Obispo Mission 270
211
Mission San Juan
2025
Mission Peak
220
Rancho Tres Pinos
Pass Santa Anna 615
82
COUNTY ORGANIZATION AND POPULATION.
Cañada San Juan .
2780
Sierra Gabilan Summit.
2368
Cbupedero Summit
2010
Cholame Peak.
312
Soledad Mission
284
Hollister.
45
Salinas City
1235
Top of Carmel grade ..
370
Spaulding
Top of grade between Spaulding's and Chu-
1013
pines creek .
696
Chupines ereek
Top between Chupines ercek and Tularcitos
1030
Ranch House
848
Tulareitos Ranch Honse
761
585
176
720
Castroville.
1302
1004
298
1248
2
Castroville.
436
371
65
425
2
Mouterey .
1923
1504
419
1737
1
Monterey
1112
895
217
1056
1
Pajaro
761
590
171
760
Total.
9876
7511
2106
8152
14
First erossing of ridge beyond Miller Canon 4555
4815
Second "
4445
Pincs
2872
Head of eanon leading to Springs
1650
Springs
1400
Paraiso Hot Springs.
above valley 1040
Organization of the County,
THE county was organized in April, 1850. In November, 1850, the Court of Sessions ordered that "the tender of rooms in James McKinley's House, for eighteen months, for use of county, be accepted." It was ordered on April 20, 1851, that a tax of "one-fourth of one per cent for county purposes, and one per cent for county Court House purposes, be levied." The county seat remained at Monterey until 1872. It occupied the Colton Hall for a long time. The building of the railroad changed the center of population, and so Monterey met with another misfortune, and lost the capitol of the county.
REMOVAL OF THE COUNTY SEAT.
Simultaneously with the growth of Salinas City, which was becoming the liveliest town in the county, arose the question of county seat removal. Monterey had held this honor ever sinec the organization of the county, and the attempt of her younger rival to wrest it from her was bitterly opposed. In spite of her efforts, however, a petition signed by the requisite number of voters was presented to the Board of Supervisors, who, as in duty bound, ordered an election, which was held on the 6th of November, 1872, the day of the presidential election. The
result was a vietory for Salinas City, and in the following Feb- ruary the county seat was removed to its present location. The vote was 1,436 for Salinas and 488 for Monterey.
In 1872 a large part of the county was eut off and organized as San Benito eounty.
INCREASE OF POPULATION.
At the first United States census of California, taken in 1850, the population was stated at 1,872. The first State eensus, taken in 1852, gave it at 2,728. In 1860, it was 4,739. In 1870, it was 9,876, as follows :--
DISTRICTS.
Total
Native.
Foreign.
White.
Colored.
Alisa
2723
2108
615
2625
6
Salinas City.
599
454
145
581
2
San Antonio.
Top between Tularcitos aud Gordou's. 1719
James 1533
3690
Wheeler Cabin.
4713
Top of ridge above James'
4388
China Camp, head of Miller Canon.
And in 1880 it was 11,309, showing a gain in ten years of 1,433, notwithstanding San Benito had been ent off in 1872.
At the time the first State census was taken in 1852, the mining counties had large populations; for instance, El Dorado 41,000, now 10,647 ; Calaveras 20,192, now 8,980.
UNOCCUPIED LANDS.
There is a section of evnntry south of Monterey, lying directly on the coast, mostly government land, many valnable portions of which are still nnocenpied, that for elimate, soil, and general adaptability for grazing purposes, cannot be excelled iu the United States, which is saying a great deal. There is a steep range of mountains, running on a line parallel with the ocean, and not far from it. On the slope of this range, facing the ocean, there is some of the finest laud you ever gazed upon, comprising tables or ridges, and pretty little valleys.
In the deep gulches intervening there is the greatest abund- ance of the finest redwood and taubark oak ; and in almost every one of these gulehes there is a running stream of water the year round, while one or two approach almost the proportions of rivers. The grass continues fresh aud green the entire year. When stoek is once driven into this range, there is no danger of their straying out; indeed, you may stand in your doorway and see them easily during the whole day. To add to the many other advantages that this beautiful section of country possesses over other parts of the State, is the fact that there is but one Spanish grant between the Carmelo and San Luis Obispo, a distance of from eighty to one hundred miles.
It is a paradise for hunters, or for those who desire to live cheap and do but littlo work. Deer, quail aud rabbits abound, while iu the larger streams trout are plenty.
300
83
CLIMATE, GEOLOGY, BOTANY AND HEALTH.
Climate, Botany and Geology of the Vicinity around Monterey Bay.
BY C. L. ANDERSON, M. D.
MONTEREY and the adjacent region is eminently adapted for beautiful and pleasant homes. It is in regard to this that we propose to discuss somewhat particularly the physical conditions of this region, including its geology, botany and climate, in their relations to health and homes. For without health and comfort of body, of what good to us are all the beauties and resources of nature-all the allurements of art ? We have no eyes for glow- ing scenes of earth and sky-no ears for concord of sounds.
It must be true, therefore, that the physical conditions which contribute most toward a healthful body, and spread before us an esthetic outlook to nourish and invigorate the mind, must be the most desirable place for a permanent home.
It is also true that a large part of the human race are seeking a country where they may find the blessings of health and a genial climate, with such natural surroundings as may give variety to some simple, it may be, but beautiful home.
Climate, more than any other one property, determines the comparative and intrinsic worth of a country for habitation. Every other condition may be, to a less or greater degrec, altered by human agency; climate remains a steadfast servant to its mistress, Nature. The soil may be unfruitful, timber wanting, the waters unfit for nse; man remedies such defects, and nations are planted in the midst of these adverse surroundings. Cli- mate, unaltered, outlasts the labor of races.
In the location, then, of a permanent settlement and the choice of a home, climatic conditions form the first and chief factor. Men pierce the frozen barriers of the north, or brave the wasting torrid heats in pursuit of wealth, only that they may dwell in comfort where the seasons come and go mildly. Human adventurers are not bound by frost and heat; and yet homes are not made of choice too near the extremes of cither.
Enough seasonable variation exists to make the race vigorous, to produce grains and fruits of the finest quality, and the best varieties of domestic stock. At the same time out-door labor suffers little interruption by reason of weather stress.
FAVORABLE LOCATION OF MONTEREY.
Monterey is near the line of thirty-six degrees and thirty minutes of north latitude. It looks out toward the north on the Bay of Monterey and the Pacific ocean. Panama steamers may be seen in the west. Santa Cruz at times may be dimly out- lined, twenty-six miles across the bay, a little west of north; Santa Lucia range of mountains looms up as a background, to the height of three or four thousand feet, beyond Monterey. The Gabilan mountains stand in bold relief in the east, guard-
ing as it were the entrance of the Salinas river into the Bay of Monterey. Northward, and forty miles distant, stands Mount Bache, (" Loma Prieta,") the highest point in the Santa Cruz mountains. The valleys behind Monterey are narrow, (cañons in many places,) winding, and are timbered; while the mount- ain sides, often to their summits, are clothed with a dense flora of trees, shrubs, and smaller plants. This verdure, much of it evergreen, gives to the seaward slope of these mountains a dark green appearance as we look at it from the bay or occan.
And a person coming by ship from the south, after seeing only barren, smooth mountains, with but occasionally a spot of timber, along the southern coast, would at once conclude that here on the Bay of Monterey is a sheltered, well-watered and fertile region. And so it is.
WIND CURRENTS OF THE COAST.
The winds that blow from the north-west pretty constantly during the dry season, cold and dry, pass Santa Cruz Point, flowing in a strong current across the bay and up the Salinas valley. The timber-covered mountains on the northerly and southerly side break and temper the wind force, while the strong current, passing some miles outside, produces an eddy on the land, thus making a favored spot, and in such a place stands the city of Monterey.
This movement of the air currents along the coast has been noticed by Professor Davidson, of the Coast Survey. When the north-west sunimer winds are blowing with considerable force, he has observed a counter land eurrent, or a sort of eddying of the land breeze. The configuration of the coast on the sides of the Bay of Monterey favors the production of a wide eddying air eurrent, extending some fifteen or twenty miles inland. So that what is not uncommon on a small scale along the coast, north and south of San Francisco, is magnified in the region about Monterey bay. These eddies of air are always mild. They are usually warmed by the land and the sun, and favor largely the growth of vegetation. As a means to give regular- ity to these eddies, a gate or opening in the coast is necessary. For example : at San Francisco, the Golden Gate admits a large air current, which spreads out on the Bay of San Francisco, flowing off into the numerous valleys, and becoming equalized with the surrounding air in temperature and other qualities. This renders mildness to the climate of San Rafael, Berkeley, Oakland, etc., by the counter currents so modified.
A wider and more extensive opening exists on the south- castern coast of the Bay of Monterey-the Salinas valley. This opening is about six miles wide and extends for one hundred miles back, offering but little obstruction to the inland flow of the strong air current which sweeps across the bay. No such gates exist for several hundred miles north of San Francisco; in fact not nutil the mouth of the Columbia is reached. And none south of the Bay of Monterey, to any great extent, until we approach the valley or plains of Los Angeles; although an
84
WIND, FOG, AND RAIN-FALL OF THE COUNTY.
extensive air eldy is in the region of Santa Barbara, giving that place a very mill and genial climate; yet this does not clupend on an opening in the Coast Range, but rather on a point of land projecting into the oceau current and breaking its force, t'is causing a counter-current on the margin of the main flow.
EXPLANATION OF WIND CHART.
Attention is called to a map in front of this book, prepared to illustrate the wind curreuts of the Pacific coast from April to October, and to show the points where the yearly and monthly temperature and rain-fall have been ascertained, as explained in the table accompanying this article. The scale of the map from north to south is mueh shortened, in order to bring the most important coast openings within a short space.
On the Pacific coast, the ocean and air currents during the summer season, say from April to October, very nearly coin- cide. Professor George Davidson says that " a south-west wind is extremely rare" during this part of the year, and that the prevailing currents of air and water are from the north-west. Ships sometimes make a long tack even to the one hundred and fortieth degree of west longitude, where the eurrents are more northward. The wind current follows the trend of the coast, gradually drawing toward the land, passing through " wind gaps." The Professor confirms what I have already said in regard to counter-currents on the land. He has noticed these when some fifteen or twenty miles back on some high peak or mountain. When the wind blows down the coast, overlapping the land, and flowing over capes and promontories with a strong current, two or three miles inland the air is often cahn and warmn. Such is remarkably the case in the Santa Cruz and Monterey mountains. We may observe the white-caps a mile or so out, while standing on some high point, scarcely a couple of miles inland, we enjoy a very mild breeze.
FEW OPENINGS IN COAST RANGE.
The whole coast from Sitka to San Diego is mountain walled, having but comparatively few gates. Hence the currents are compressed, and forced with considerable rapidity along the coast southward. Opposite or above Monterey they begin to bend westward, in the equatorial or return Japan currents. A pportion, however, passes toward and above the land, spreading .out eastward from Los Angeles to San Diego. This wind, .however, is mild and genial, and adds much to the pleasantness of the region bordering on the Santa Barbara and San Pedro channels. And were it not for occasional siroccos, that come from the deserts south-castward, this would be a most favored region as regards climate. North of Santa Barbara these des- ert winds are seldom felt-perhaps never as far north as Mont- erey bay.
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